Paving slabs are an aesthetic and functional decor personal plot. It allows you to give a well-groomed appearance to the garden space and facilitates the movement of people and equipment. Attractive price, ease of use and ease of installation have made it a popular material among developers. Such paths and platforms look very attractive. There is a wide range of types available on the market paving slabs from various materials, various shapes and color solutions. And the varied texture will allow you to choose a material to suit any design and landscape.

Paving slabs are very popular because they have a number of positive qualities. In addition to its low price and ease of installation, it is environmentally friendly and has durable properties. If necessary, you can always replace the damaged area without compromising the integrity of the entire coating.

Main advantages:

• Paths and platforms can be laid in any shape and configuration;
• It is possible to remove the covering and move it to another place;
• Environmentally friendly material;
• Does not injure tree roots, allowing moisture and air to pass through;
• No fumes occur in hot weather;
• Resistance to sudden temperature changes;
• Strength and wear resistance.

The disadvantages include slipping on the tiles during frosts. To avoid an undesirable effect, purchase material with a rough surface. When choosing a coating, you need to decide for what purposes the tiles will be used. There are 2 types of material, differing in the production method: vibropressed and vibrocast. The first option is purchased for areas with increased load. Vibrocast is suitable for laying paved paths in the garden.

Depending on the design imagination and preferences of the owners, tiles can be laid in several ways:

• Staggered;
• Herringbone styling;
• Braided;
• In the circle version;
• Chaotic pattern.

A beautifully laid out project will add zest to the site and emphasize the individuality of the owners.

What is the best way to lay paving slabs?

Laying paving slabs can be done on a bed of wet sand, a mixture of sand and cement, or on a concrete base. The first 2 options involve easy dismantling of the paving stones. Installing the material on concrete will make the site stationary.

Sand is considered the easiest and most popular installation option in dachas and garden plots.

The advantage of this paving is the passage of moisture into the ground through layers of sand. Sometimes it is mixed with gravel and pieces of brick to compact the substrate. Any paving stones, ceramics or bricks can be placed on such a layer. A mixture of cement and sand is pre-prepared based on proportions of 1:5 and distributed over the prepared surface. Then they spill water and begin to lay the tiles. This method allows you to firmly strengthen the coating and, if necessary, easily dismantle it. Place material on concrete base recommended in cases of heavy surface loads. This coating is used in parking lots and as a garage area.

The advantages of the screed include:

• Strength;
• Evenness of laying;
• No shrinkage during operation.

Cement, sand and water are mixed in a concrete mixer, then the mixture is poured and compacted. It is necessary to take care of water drainage before installation; after hardening, it will be problematic to remove the permanent coating. Depending on the purpose of use, the owner of the personal plot chooses a suitable base option for the tile.

Installation of paving slabs: technology for performing the work

There are various ways to lay tiles, but experts recommend sticking to the general sequence.

Work stages:

1. Clearing the area. Stumps are uprooted, plants are removed, soil is removed from 15 to 20 cm.
2. The surface of the earth is treated with herbicide.
3. Markings are made along the length of the path or the perimeter of the site using pegs and beacons.
4. Form slopes for water drainage.
5. Install curbs.
6. Fill the work surface with a layer for laying tiles.
7. Compact and level the mixture.
8. Lay the tiles.
9. Seams are sealed.

These principles apply during installation regardless of what the source material is laid on. Consistent steps will help you lay the sidewalk correctly.

Tools for laying paving slabs

Post beautiful path It won’t be difficult even for a beginner, the main thing is to have desire, patience and accuracy. In order to start construction work, you need to prepare materials and tools. Draw up a drawing with a plan of sidewalks, then calculate the required number of tiles, depending on its size and configuration.

Necessary materials:

• Tiles or paving stones;
• Side stones;
• Crushed stone;
• Sand;
• Cement;
• Waterproofing film.

Tools for work: grinder for cutting tiles, shovel, tamper, trowel, mallet, hammer, broom, building level, tape measure, pegs, cord or rope. For work, it is advisable to have gloves and special knee pads. Access to water and electricity must be ensured.

How to lay a path from paving slabs on a sand base

You can lay out the path yourself by following step-by-step instructions. The main thing is that when arranging it, good drainage is ensured. This will prevent water from stagnating and destroying the structure. To do this, make a slight slope of 5 mm every 1 - 1.5 meters.

The first step is preparation work surface. Remove unnecessary plants and remove the layer of soil, clearing the area for future installation. The ground is leveled with a rake and pegs are placed at the nodal marks, between which a cord is pulled. The markings should be every 1 - 1.5 meters. The distance between the ground and the markings should be equal to the thickness of 2 tiles folded together. Next, provide a slight slope for water flow towards the street.

On the sides of the paths it is necessary to make trenches for installing curb stones.

The second stage of work will be preparing the layer. To do this, you need to lay geotextiles, which will prevent grass from growing through the tiles and will prevent the coating from sagging. Crushed stone is poured on top over the entire surface of the path and compacted so that the layer does not exceed 15 cm.

The third stage is the installation of side stone. Pre-dug trenches are filled with cement mortar, then a curb is installed. Its height can be flush with the path or protruding slightly. This design will allow you to hold the entire array and emphasize geometric shapes. Next, pour a damp sand cushion, level it with a rake and compact it again. If the owner wants to further strengthen the structure, at the next stage a mixture of cement and sand is applied, leveled and compacted.

The tiles begin to be laid from the curb, according to the diagram. In order not to damage the leveled surface, work is carried out away from you, moving gradually forward. The intermediate distance between tiles should not exceed 3 mm. Beginners can use special crosses. Using a mallet, each element is sunk, focusing on the level.

First, lay the main area, then all the other parts that need to be adjusted to size. After paving the path, you can additionally walk with a vibrating plate for perfect compaction and a smooth surface. Next, the seams are filled with wet sand and passed with a broom to fill all holes. Laying out the path yourself is not difficult and exciting process, which will make the owner proud and create the necessary aesthetic appearance for the garden plot.

How to make a platform from paving slabs on a concrete base

You can arrange a stationary platform on a concrete base for a car or for other significant loads yourself. To prevent water from stagnating, the concrete surface of the site will need to be made with a slight slope.

Step-by-step instruction:

1. Prepare the surface for the site, remove debris and plants.
2. Mark its boundaries with pegs and stretch the twine between them.
3. Remove the top 20 cm of soil, pour water on it and compact the designated area.
4. Dig a trench along the width and length for the curb stone, fill it with cement and place the curb stone.
5. Put it on the ground waterproofing film which will prevent moisture from rising to the top.
6. Pour crushed stone on top of the film and fill the voids between it with sand. Compact everything well.
7. Fix the prepared reinforcement or mesh between each other and the side rods.
8. Make a cement mixture in a ratio of 1:3:2 cement, sand, crushed stone. Then mix it with water until smooth and pour onto the prepared surface. Level it, not forgetting the slope, and leave it to dry for several days.

Laying the tiles is carried out only after the cement base has completely dried. Its installation is carried out using cement-sand mortar, some craftsmen use glue. The concrete base is moistened, the solution is applied with a trowel in a small layer of 2-3 cm and the tiles begin to be laid.

Laying paving slabs

If you decide to pave the surface on the site yourself, then you need to know what technology fits better for the selected option. Proper construction of sidewalks design diagrams and some instructions reflect routing for laying paving slabs.

Regardless of which installation method is chosen, you must adhere to general rules paving:

• Masonry is carried out in dry, preferably cloudy weather;
• Sawdust is not used to fill joints;
• If large loads are expected on the laid surface, the cushion is made of concrete with reinforcement;
• Soils with a complex structure require reinforcement with 80 cm of concrete, and then a mixture of cement and sand of 40 cm to prevent the site from moving;
• At the porch, it is better to lay the tiles on a cement base, since the daily load is increased;
• Be sure to make a slope of 5° for water outflow.

Correct laying of paving slabs (video)

High-quality construction of paths and sidewalk areas with proper drainage and drainage will allow the structure to serve for many years, maintaining its original aesthetic appearance.

When beautifying the local area, many owners often wonder what to cover the paths, front and back yard, recreation area... Paving slabs are perfect for these purposes. The functional covering in landscaping has no equal. The price of the material is far from fabulous, and laying paving slabs with your own hands is quite simple to do. So, the design of paths and areas on the site will not cost too much, and at the same time it will be a worthy frame for the garden and decoration of the local area.

The tiled path does not disturb the natural need of plants on the site for water and gas exchange

Easy to maintain and durable

Paving slabs – perfect coverage in frosty winter conditions, it has high strength and low abrasion.

With high-quality installation, tiles can last more than 15 years

Both the technology for laying paving slabs and their subsequent care are quite simple. If the coating is damaged, it is always possible to restore the area by selecting and replacing just a few tiles.

In order for the paved paths and areas on the site to become not only an original addition to the landscape design, but also to serve well for many years, when carrying out work it is important to take into account a number of basic points on how to properly lay paving slabs. For example, depending on the location and purpose of the coating, paving slabs can be laid either on mortar or on sand or crushed stone.

To arrange garden paths and recreation areas, it is enough to use a sand and crushed stone “cushion”

Tile laying work step by step

At the stage of preparation for laying paving slabs, it is extremely important to correctly select products from a wide range of products and necessary tools, which will be simple and convenient to work with. When choosing a tile, you need to focus not only on taste preferences, but also take into account performance characteristics material. So, when equipping a recreation area or a covered carport, you should ask the manufacturer whether the tiles are capable of supporting heavy structures or are designed only for human weight.

Attention is paid to the surface roughness, the shape of the product: are there any adjustments, will it need to be trimmed?

To carry out the work you will need the following tools:

1. Master OK;
2. wooden or rubber mallet;
3. manual rammer;
4. metal or wooden pegs;
5. cord-order;
6. building level;
7. I-beam or pipe of any diameter;
8. watering can or watering hose with sprayer;
9. rake and broom;
10. M500 cement and sand.

To determine the number of tiles and raw materials for the base, it is necessary to think through the layout of the site, taking into account the location and size of its paths and platforms.

One of the basic rules for laying paving slabs is the need to arrange paths with a slight slope of 5 mm per meter so that water can freely flow from them into wells or onto lawns.

Arrangement of the base

The success of the entire construction directly depends on the reliability of the base surface. When arranging the base, stakes with notches are hammered along the edges of the location of the future path at a height of 5-7 cm, at the level of which the cord is pulled. A layer of turf, stones and debris are removed from the construction site.

In order to lay any paving slabs with your own hands, you must first carefully prepare the base

To level the surface of the outlined area, in elevated places the excess layer of soil is removed, and in depressions, holes and basins, on the contrary, it is added. The base, leveled with a rake, is carefully compacted. When working with soft soil, it is advisable to moisten the leveled soil surface with water before compacting. Careful compaction of the base will prevent uneven settlement of the sidewalk.

The depth of the base is calculated with a margin of a couple of centimeters, taking into account the fact that shrinkage always occurs during compaction. On average, it takes from 20 to 30 cm to lay a layer of sand and the tile itself.

After excavating the soil, the front side of the tile should reach the desired level

The entire surface of the future path is given a transverse, longitudinal or longitudinal-transverse slope. At this stage of arrangement of platforms and paths, work on laying communications is also carried out. Laying geotextiles before filling with sand will prevent the growth of weeds between the tiles.

Creating a “pillow” from sand or crushed stone

Sand can be laid on the prepared base layer of soil, which will not only increase the stability of the sidewalk, but will also act as a drainage system. The poured sand must be leveled with a rake and watered until puddles form on its surface. After only 3-4 hours in sunny weather, the “pillow” can be given a smooth, even shape using a profile, which can also be an ordinary pipe or beam.

To level the surface of the sand layer, you can use inch PVC pipes

The pipes are placed like rails at a distance of 2-3 meters from each other. The gaps between them are filled with sand to the same height, ensuring a smooth surface throughout the entire area.

To give greater strength to the coating, paving slabs can also be laid either on a crushed stone base or on a mortar. To do this, you need to prepare a dry sand-cement mixture in a 3:1 ratio. The mixture is laid out in an even layer on the base, and the screed is performed using a channel. When working with “difficult” soils, it is advisable to use a combined installation consisting of a layer of cement-sand mixture and concrete.

Installation of paving stones

Before laying the paving stones, it is necessary to pull the cord along the chamfer. It is better to start laying paving slabs with your own hands from the curb. The first row is laid out strictly along the cord. The tiles are laid in the direction away from you.

The “bricks” must be placed in such a way that they fit tightly together

This will avoid increasing the width of the seams. Using crosses will make it possible to set equal intervals of 1-2 mm between the tiles. If the tiles lie unevenly, you can use a trowel to remove or add a layer of sand under it and then compact it again.

It is necessary to level paving slabs using a building level and a mallet. Upon completion of the tile laying work, the seams are covered with a layer of cement-sand mixture and watered with water.

To give the path a more neat and attractive appearance, the seams between the tiles can be “rubbed” with quartz sand

If the tiles do not fit well with other buildings or elements of landscape design, you can trim its edges using a grinder.

Upon completion of work, debris and remaining sand are swept away from the finished path. Installing the border with M100 liquid mortar will prevent loosening of the tiles and “creeping” of the path.

Video master classes with installation examples

In the future, it is enough just to renew the sand washed out by water in the seams of the paving stones. A path decorated with paving slabs will be an excellent decoration of the site.

For seasonal or periodic use of a suburban area, laying paving slabs at the dacha can be done according to a budget option. The traffic intensity here is low, you can use the cheapest figured paving elements (FEM), abandon full-fledged curbs and prancing.

Mandatory requirements for paving

The main problem of an individual developer is traditionally a limited budget. The technology for laying figured paving elements (FEM) with your own hands for decorating paths can be simplified. However, some mandatory requirements remain unchanged:

• arrangement of a rigid spatial “trough”;
• removing the topsoil, replacing it with crushed stone or sand with layer-by-layer compaction;
• ensuring the drainage of rainwater due to the slope of the surface.

Manufacturers produce latex and polymer molds for paving slabs; if you have free time, you can make the tiles yourself.

Forms for pouring FEM tiles.

Renting a vibrating plate provides additional costs; its installation is simple; most home craftsmen can assemble the equipment.

Homemade vibrating plate.

Manual tamping is easier to make; you will need a log and a block as a handle.

The simplest manual rammer.

Budget options for laying paving slabs

A summer resident can exclude some operations from the technology and replace expensive materials with budget options:

Important! Colored paving stones are more expensive, so in full saving mode you will have to choose non-colored tile options.

Base and underlying layer

The durability of paths directly depends on the quality of the base and underlying layer. The fertile layer is removed entirely or by 0.4 m at a great depth. The resulting trench is filled with sand (only on dry soil) or crushed stone (at high groundwater level) with your own hands. Main nuances correct device the underlying layer are:

Important! The technology for removing the arable layer can be done by mechanization. In this case, the bottom of the “trough” must be cleaned with shovels, rolled or compacted to a condition similar to the above for sand.

Horizontal level marks should take into account the following factors:

• For paths, tiles 3 cm thick are sufficient, parking lots passenger cars 4 – 6 cm;
• the plane of the FEM elements should be 2–4 cm higher than adjacent lawns and open areas of soil to ensure the gravity movement of rainwater runoff;
• paving stones need to be laid on a 4–7 cm layer of sand;
• The thickness of the arable layer is usually at least 40 cm.

In other words, when choosing 3 cm tiles, taking into account the above, the surface of the underlying layer should be in the “trough” at a depth of 5-7 cm. If paving stones 6 cm thick are used, the compacted crushed stone of the underlying layer should end at around 8 – 11 cm with a minus sign.

Advice! To reduce the consumption of inert material on long paths, large recreation areas and parking lots, ground leveling should be done taking into account the design slopes, and not created later with sand or crushed stone.

Selection of FEM elements

Paving country path is produced by paving slabs, the price of which depends on several factors:

Therefore, for the budget construction of pedestrian zones at the dacha with your own hands, gray vibro-cast paving slabs are used, for which the format matters:

Advice! Square tiles allow you to make a path 60–100 cm wide from FEM elements of different sizes from 30 x 30 cm to 50 x 50 cm without trimming along the entire length.

Paving in stages

To prevent paving slabs from sliding down the sides of the path, garden borders are used in classical technology. IN budget option These elements are cast into plank or earthen formwork; they can be made hidden:

• making trenches around the perimeter with a depth of 25 cm;
• preparing concrete manually on a sheet or in a trough;
• laying the mixture with your own hands without reinforcement;
• bayoneting with a reinforcing bar until the air is completely removed (the crushed stone is completely recessed, cement laitance appears on the surface, air bubbles do not come out of the solution).

The height of the hidden borders must be made approximately to the middle of the tile, taking into account the layer of sand on which it is laid (5 - 7 cm). After the concrete has hardened (at least 3 days), you can begin paving:

• installation of beacon bars along the direction of the path;
• backfilling with sand and leveling the layer along the beacons;
• removing the bars and filling the remaining grooves with sand;
• laying the entire tile in front of you, pressing down each element with a rubber mallet as needed;
• cutting pieces and installing them at the place of use.

Important! Only a vibrating plate can be used to compact the entire surface of the laid pavement. Rollers made from barrels and tampers do not allow achieving the required effect.

At the last stage, the seams of the paving slabs should be filled with sand. Ideal option The sand is quartz; to reduce the cost of finishing, seeded quarry sand is quite suitable. River sand is unsuitable for this, since its particles have a rounded shape and do not have a self-wedging effect.

Path configuration

If you make the paths straight, taking into account the size of the tiles, you can reduce the trimming of FEM elements to a minimum. However, there are economical laying schemes for paving slabs of some configurations, when the entire path is lined with solid paving stones.

At intersections, the choice of scheme depends on the specific size and format of the tiles chosen by the developer. Here it is more difficult to do without a FEM cut, just as in the junctions with rainwater inlets under the roof drainage.

Decorating a crossroads in a dacha with Old Town elements.

The service life of one diamond disc for an angle grinder is significantly higher than that of a package of abrasive equipment for concrete/stone. Therefore, it is cheaper to buy one diamond disc, which, after finishing the work, will remain in the arsenal of the home craftsman.

Thus, there are quite a lot of ways to pave a path in a dacha with paving slabs on a budget. At the same time, labor costs increase slightly, and the service life of the cladding is practically not reduced.

Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for selecting them. Just submit in the form below detailed description work that needs to be done and you will receive offers with prices from construction teams and companies by email. You can see reviews about each of them and photographs with examples of work. It's FREE and there's no obligation.

FORUMHOUSE users know well that life outside the city means not only a pleasant time in a hammock in the garden, but also constant housework. Everyone arranges their “ten acres” to their own taste. And if the creation of landscape design is a matter of personal preference, then garden paths are simply vital in any personal plot and at any dacha. Indeed, in addition to purely decorative purposes, it is the paths that allow us to move freely around the site, regardless of the time of year.

Therefore, the requirements for materials for paving garden paths are: increased requirements, such as wear resistance, safety, environmental friendliness and presentable appearance. Paving slabs meet all these requirements. Expert advice and step-by-step instructions from users of our forum in this article will help you lay tiles for the path in your country house yourself!

How to make a path from tiles. Planning.

Any construction should begin with careful planning of all work. Laying paving slabs will be no exception. First of all, you should pay attention to the following points:

The total number of paths and their location on the site. Tiles for paths in the garden.

The key rule can be formulated as follows: “The central path in the garden should lead from the entrance to the site to the house.” If there is a garage, workshop or gazebo on the site, then paths should be laid to them. This way, you can ensure the zoning of the site, ensuring unobstructed access to each building.

Width of sidewalk paths

The path leading to the house should be such a width that two adults walking towards each other can easily pass each other. On average, this value ranges from 1 to 1.5 meters.

Paths that are not used very often and lead to flower beds or beds can be made 0.5 to 0.8 meters wide.

You should also clearly define the functional purpose of the tracks.

Denis Bogdanov Landscape improvement specialist, forum nickname Denis Vlad-ch

– For myself, I clearly divide paths into decorative ones, leading to the gazebo, and functional ones, which are subject to heavy loads and lead to the house or garage.

Paths that experience heavy loads require more careful preparation of the base than those paths that are used from time to time.

Denis Vlad-ch

You also need to consider how you will care for your garden path in winter and autumn.

Unlike unfilled paths, paving slabs are easier to maintain. When removing snow and fallen leaves, you won't be throwing rubble aside.

The second most important characteristic of a garden sidewalk, after functionality, is how pleasant it is to walk along it. And in order to understand this, you can use the secret of landscape designers.

Vladimir Petriv Director of Petriv Landscape Designe

I always advise you to first walk along pre-marked paths and make sure that everything is comfortable and that it is convenient for all household members to move along them. I can say that after such a “walk” you almost always have to make adjustments to the original plan for marking the path.

In addition to defining the functionality garden path, you need to select the thickness of the tile. And here it is better to adhere to the following rules.

How to make a sidewalk path: step-by-step instruction

In addition to determining the functionality of the garden path, it is necessary to select the thickness of the paving slabs. And here it is better to adhere to the following rules.

Konstantin MerzlyakovExpert from the Factory GOTIKA, Moscow:

For garden paths and local areas where passenger vehicles do not enter, the paving slabs of the path can be no thicker than 40-50 mm. And for a path providing passage for a passenger car and parking, the thickness of the tiles must be at least 60 mm.

Vladimir Petriv:

Initial preparation for laying garden paths usually involves excavation, and this must be linked to the geoplasticity of your site. With large differences in heights, slopes, etc., it will be necessary to move and remove large masses of land - a very costly undertaking that requires the use of construction equipment

Geoplastics is the artificial formation of the relief and architecture of a site.

How to lay a tile garden path. Recommendations from experts.

Paving slabs are an environmentally friendly and durable coating for garden paths. And its durability and beauty, first of all, will depend on the quality of paving slabs and compliance with laying technology. You can also make tiles for paths with your own hands.

Konstantin Merzlyakov

Modern paving slabs are made of concrete. The shape of the tiles can be absolutely any, which allows you to successfully fit garden paths into landscape design any area.

The service life of concrete vibropressed tiles is on average 15 years, provided proper preparation grounds.

And, like any coating, paving slabs require maintenance during operation (cleaning, use of water-repellent coatings, etc.).

The first stage preparatory work for laying paving slabs is to break down the contour of the area to be laid and set up control “beacons”. The angles of the territory, connection to existing areas, and slopes are taken into account. After the work on laying out the contour has been carried out, they begin to prepare the base, which includes the following types of work: planning, installation of a load-bearing layer, installation of curbs and installation of a leveling sand layer under the tiles.

DIY sidewalk paths

We make a path from paving slabs in the following step-by-step sequence:

• The earthen boxes under the side stone are torn off;
• A side stone is installed around the perimeter of the site. Curb stone is necessary for strong fixation of paving slabs;
• The underlying layer is poured;
• The base is being laid;
• The tile covering is being laid;
• The tile joints are filled.

It is also necessary to remember that when laying tiles, the following standards should be followed.

Alexander LoginovTechnical Director of the company TD BRAER

Work on the installation of paving must be carried out in accordance with SNiP 3.06.03-85 “Highways” and SNiP III-10-75 “Landscaping”.

And the independent installation process can be divided into a number of successive stages.

1. Planning and designing a garden path. It is necessary to determine the type of soil on the site. Then develop the layout of the garden paths, choose the design and pattern of the tile layout;
2. Cost calculation necessary materials;
3. Carrying out work on laying garden paths.

Garden paths made of tiles.

Let's take a closer look at each of the points.

Alexander Loginov:

The choice of method for laying tiles depends on the condition of the dacha soil and the subsequent operating conditions of the site: the blind area of ​​the building, a pedestrian area, an area for driving and parking cars, etc.

It should be remembered that the result of your work, first of all, will depend on the thoroughness of the preliminary marking and preparation of the base for laying the tiles.

Planning includes the following points:

• draw the layout of the area to be paved;
• measure the area in order to put the dimensions on the plan;
• Based on the above points, calculate the required amount of tiles for laying, as well as the amount of materials for preparing the base of a tile path with a border.

After developing the plan, they begin marking future paths.

Alexander Loginov

First of all, determine the direction of water flow. Please note that water must flow along the building's blind area or along a path into drainage wells or onto lawns. The slope can be made longitudinal, transverse, longitudinal-transverse, but not less than 0.5%, that is, 5 mm per meter.

The direction of the slope should be such that water flows from the paving into drainage systems or onto the lawn, but not towards the building!

After the location for laying the tiles has been determined, the boundaries of the path are marked. To do this, pegs are driven along the boundaries of the site, along which a cord or fishing line is pulled. After this, you can begin excavating the soil, following these recommendations:

1. The excavation is carried out so that after laying the front surface of the tile reaches the specified level of your site;
2. The area formed after excavation is leveled and compacted;
3. If the soil is soft, it needs to be moistened (sprayed with water from a hose) and compacted.

Vladimir Petriv

Drainage and water disposal into a storm drain or storage well must be thought out and installed at the preparatory stage of work on laying garden paths.

Tiling a garden path

Konstantin Merzlyakov

When laying paving slabs on a complex curved surface and with a large difference in heights, it is necessary when planning to include a larger percentage for the consumption of tiles (trimming, adjusting, etc.).

Preparing the base of the sidewalk path

The most important stage of laying paving slabs is preparing the base. The correct foundation will not allow the path or site to “sag”, ensuring its longevity. It should be borne in mind that, despite the tight seams between the tiles, the base is still saturated with water. Therefore, a permeable drainage bearing layer (gravel, crushed stone) is needed at the base. Then some of the water from the surface will be drained through the paving stones and the load-bearing layer into the soil.

How to make paths from tiles.

It is also important to understand what layers it consists of. correct option base pie for laying tiles.

Alexander Mishin Expert of the Wienerberger Brick company

The pie consists of several layers: the natural soil base, the subbase, the underlying layer, the “bed” and, in fact, the “sidewalk”.

The “bed” is a layer of sand or small gravel. The sub-base is a bulk layer of soil, and the underlying layer consists of gravel or crushed stone.

Alexander Mishin

The thickness of the “bed” for any type of soil base is on average 3-5 cm. The thickness of the remaining layers should be formed based on indicators of the soil base such as humidity, density and composition.

Alexander Loginov

For the main supporting layer, frost-resistant material with a uniform grain composition (crushed stone, gravel) is used. This material must be laid evenly in height and with the required slopes.

To build an ordinary pedestrian dacha path, you will need to make a load-bearing layer 10-20 cm thick. When constructing areas for travel and parking of passenger cars, a layer of 20-30 cm is used. For heavy loads, the load-bearing layer is increased and laid in 2-3 layers, each layer is compacted vibrating plate or vibrating roller.

As mentioned above, the method of preparing the base largely depends on the expected load on the garden path. It is also necessary to take into account the bearing capacity of the soil.

Our forum user Oleg Novitsky advises how to build a sidewalk path from tiles in difficult soil: if under the base there is a so-called heavy or clay soil, or you have a waterlogged country cottage area, then the thickness of the crushed stone base must be made at least 10 cm.

Then geotextiles are laid.

Geotextiles allow water to pass through well and do not allow materials to mix (mixing materials leads to the formation of voids and gaps in the coatings).

Alexander Mishin

The use of geotextiles is appropriate when the natural soil base is located in a swampy area and has high humidity. A layer of geotextile is placed above the natural soil base.

The next layer of our “pie” is screening on a geotextile base.

Oleg Novitsky

We fill the area with screenings (or sand). The screening layer must be at least 10 cm. This layer must be compacted very carefully. At this stage, it is necessary to precisely level the entire foundation for laying using a rule or other tool.

The dropout rate is not very good property– caking. This means that over time the base becomes almost monolithic, and then, due to its low strength, it cracks, and cracks and cavities form in the coating. To avoid such a nuisance, use a vibrating tool for compaction and tamping and do not carry out work in rainy weather. The best screening for such work is dry.

We then proceed to create the foundation level using the following algorithm:

• The boundaries and center lines of the site are marked with a rope;
• Loose sand can be leveled just below the edges of the curb;
• We compact the resulting pillow with a vibrating plate.

Oleg Novitsky

An electric or gasoline vibrating rammer with a rubber sole is well suited for compacting the sand layer. With its help, you can not only qualitatively prepare a gravel-sand cushion, but also avoid further subsidence and collapse of the soil under the laid tiles.

Alexander Loginov

It must be remembered that all layers of the base are poured, leveled and compacted, taking into account a 0.5% slope!

Completes preparatory stage filling with river sand or cement-sand mixture. To do this, a layer of clay-free river sand 1-2 cm thick is poured onto the base without compaction; the layer should be loose.

CPS (cement-sand mixture) is taken in a ratio of 1:8-1:10, because cement is needed to bind the sand so that it can be washed away with water.

Alexander Mishin

The use of a cement-sand mixture as a “bed” is justified only in cases where heavy vehicle traffic is expected on the surface of the tile. The garage and pedestrian zone of a private house do not belong here, because the movement and load here are not so intense.

Laying paving slabs

In order for the garden path to be durable and for the tiles to lie flat on it, the summer resident must also divide its installation into several successive stages.

Laying begins:

• from the bottom point;
• from optically important boundaries;
• from conspicuous elements: porch, front entrance to the house;
• manual laying of tiles is done diagonally in the direction “away from you”, so as not to disturb the prepared top layer.

Before laying the first row of tiles, in order to maintain the exact location of the seams, it is necessary to pull the cord over the entire length and width of the object. After this, holding the cord, proceed with installation.

It is recommended to check the location and straightness of the seams every three rows of laid paving slabs. Laying is done using a rubber hammer (mallet) with light blows on the tile. Every 3-5 square meters of laid but not yet compacted paving slabs, its surface is controlled using a two-meter rule or a building level.

Alexander Loginov

As a frame for paths on suburban area Curb stones should be used. These fences must be made before laying the outer part of the path to prevent lateral displacement and settlement of the tiles.

Along the edges of the marked area of ​​the path, dig a trench along a stretched cord small size and depth (so that the curb enters this trench to the required level). The base of the trench must be compacted, backfilled, and the curb installed on concrete.

The border can be visible or hidden - it depends on the desire. If the border is hidden, then it must be placed so that the top of the tile exceeds the top of the border by the height of the chamfer.

Oleg Novitsky

To reduce the number of tiles to cut, start the longest row at the curb, laying entire tiles directly towards it. The resulting voids should be exactly half the tile. By cutting from one whole you will get two halves you need, and I think waste can be completely avoided. This technique can be used for figured symmetrical tiles.

The main enemy of any paving slab is freezing water. Therefore, you cannot lay tiles on monolithic, waterproof bases or concrete screeds. It is prohibited to lay tiles on the mortar outdoors.

Sealing and vibrating ramming

After laying out the tiles, the coating is compacted with a vibrating plate. After the first vibration compaction of the coating, dry, sifted, clean sand is poured onto the surface so that the sand is easily and densely poured into the cracks between the tiles. The scattered sand is spread evenly with a brush over the entire area and hammered into the seams, “tying” the entire coating into a single whole.

And in order to build a durable coating, when working you must adhere to the following recommendations:

• Do not lay tiles in rainy weather without a special canopy.
• Do not fill the joints with a mixture of sand and cement.
• If the area has “complex”, heaving soil, it must be taken into account that its displacement can deform the tile. Then a more complex installation is performed - with the step-by-step preparation of a concrete pad as a base, which guarantees durability.

Thus, when self-installation Garden paths need to take into account every little detail and carefully plan all stages of work. After all, the path to your home begins with a garden path made!

Laying – mandatory stage arrangement of any local area, because paths make the area not only more comfortable, but also aesthetically pleasing. For these purposes, you can use the most different materials, but most often the choice falls on paving slabs. There is nothing surprising here: it has a lot of advantages, and the technology for laying the material is so accessible that literally anyone can do it with their own hands. To correctly lay the path and thereby improve the area of ​​the dacha, you only need to follow the step-by-step instructions - we suggest you read them further.

Why choose paving slabs

So that you have no doubt about the advisability of using this material to create country paths, let’s consider the main advantages:

• A large selection of shapes, shades, as well as textures - tiles make it possible to implement any design idea and create a harmonious landscape ensemble.
• Ease of use - there are no puddles left on the paths made of paving slabs, since all excess moisture leaves through the tile seams.

Paving slabs are convenient and durable

• Durability - the material does not deform under constant exposure to the scorching sun, precipitation and sudden temperature changes. In addition, the tiles are durable and low abrasion, so they can withstand long-term intensive use - over 15 years. But even if some area of ​​the coating is damaged, it can always be restored by replacing several tiles.
• Easy to install - laying down a path won't take much effort special labor even for those who have never dealt with such landscape work. To make sure of this, consider the technology of laying tiles step by step.

Stage 1: Selecting a pattern for laying tiles

First of all, you need to decide how you will lay the tiles - the shape, size and amount of material for the path depends on this.

The most common schemes:

• Classic ordering is the simplest installation method, which involves placing paving slabs one after another. Most often, square or rectangular elements are used - they are easier to fit together.

Advice. To give such a rather simple track originality, you can combine different colors and tile textures.

• With an offset - one more traditional way laying: tiles are placed so that their joints do not coincide. A combination of different colors and textures is actively encouraged here, but the shape of the elements must be uniform.
• Herringbone - laying at an angle of 45 or 90 degrees. Rectangular or shaped elements can be used. A complex version of the herringbone is wicker: paving slabs are also laid at an angle, but alternating - lengthwise and crosswise. To make the pattern clear, it is recommended to use only two colors.

Paths made of paving slabs look very modern and beautiful

• Chess - laying square two-color tiles in a checkerboard pattern. Although this option is simple to implement, due to the play of colors it looks very impressive.
• Geometry - various geometric patterns are formed from tiles: squares, rhombuses, zigzags, etc. The composition is created by using elements of different colors, but the same shape.

Stage 2: Preparation of materials and tools

When you decide on the installation scheme, you can go to a hardware store to buy tiles. When choosing a product, focus not only on its design, but also on performance indicators: slip level, maximum permissible weight loads, processing capabilities (trimming, painting).

Advice. To correctly determine the number of tiles, it is better to draw up a simple plan diagram in advance: indicate the shape and dimensions of the planned path. Subsequently, taking into account the area working area and the dimensions of a specific tile, you can easily calculate the required volume of material.

In addition to the paving slabs themselves, you will also need:

• dry cement;
• sand;
• fine crushed stone or gravel;
• small pegs - wooden or metal;
• mallet - rubber or wooden;
• Master OK;

Before laying tiles, the surface should be leveled

• level;
• tile knife;
• tamping;
• profile;
• geotextiles;
• twine.

Stage 3: Laying on a concrete base or sand bed

A properly prepared foundation is a guarantee of successful laying of a country path, so this stage needs to be thought out in detail. The first step is to mark the future path: mark its boundaries, drive pegs around the perimeter and connect them with twine.

Advice. If the site has clay soil, take care of drainage: make longitudinal and transverse slopes in the resulting trench so that moisture flows to the edges.

Now you need to decide the most important question: on what kind of base will you lay the tiles? There are two options:

1. Sand pillow. First, you need to lay a layer of sand on the ground - 5-10 cm in height. Compact it and moisten it. Lay geotextiles on top. Then lay a layer of crushed stone or gravel - also 5-10 cm in height. Walk along the base with a tamper and add up to 5 cm more sand. After this, perform the final moistening and compaction of the pillow. This base option is only suitable for narrow and short paths.
2. Concrete base. To begin, fill the trenches with a layer of sand - about 5 cm. Moisten and compact the base. Then prepare a cement mixture: 1 part cement and 3 parts sand. Fill the trench with the resulting composition - the layer should be 4-5 cm. Be sure to level the concrete with a trowel. This base option is more durable than the first, so it is suitable for paths of any size.

Laying tiles on a sand bed

Stage 4: Tile laying technology

The last stage is the direct construction of the path from paving slabs. You only need to start laying from yourself - this way you will not deform the prepared base. According to the chosen pattern, install the first tile, adjust its position and fix it to the base, carefully tapping it with a mallet.

Focusing on the first element, lay the entire track, keeping gaps of 2 mm. Tamp each tile with a mallet so that it “sits” firmly into the base. Periodically check the height of the covering - if you notice that some element is laid unevenly, use a trowel to carefully lift it, adjust the position and re-fix it on the track.

After the paving slabs have been laid, fill the seams with either sand or a dry cement-sand composition. Then remove excess filler and thoroughly moisten the gaps. The seams should be tight, since they will bear part of the load that the track will take on.

Advice. To fill the joints, use only clean sand that does not contain any organic impurities, so that vegetation does not soon appear between the tiles.

You can walk on the paved path only 2-3 days after its installation.

Laying paving slabs is a relatively inexpensive but effective way to improve the surrounding area. As you can see, arranging paths does not require professional skills or complex tools - it’s quite possible to make paths with your own hands. So carefully study the step-by-step installation instructions and you can safely get to work.

How to lay paving slabs: video

Paving slabs at the dacha: photo