When developing a new summer cottage, many people plan to install a lawn. If the ground in the chosen place is flat and some kind of grass grows on it, you can simply start mowing it regularly - and you will have a green lawn. But if there was a forest on the site, or the ground needs to be dug up for other reasons, you will have to start planting a lawn according to all the rules. We'll tell you how to make a lawn at your dacha with your own hands, what kind of lawn grass to buy, how often your lawn needs watering and mowing.

What is a lawn? This is a specially constructed, leveled area, sown with various turf-forming or creeping low-growing plants. Lawns can be sports, decorative or special purpose.

Sports lawns are created at stadiums, hippodromes and other sports grounds. Special-purpose lawns are needed at airfields, highway slopes and railways, hydraulic and other structures. Decorative lawns decorate gardens, parks, city boulevards, gardens and summer cottages. Depending on the location and composition of the growing herbs, they are divided into the following classes.

First class (highest) - parterre lawns. They are created in the main parts of the architectural composition of the garden, near fountains, sculptural groups, decorative ponds, etc. The main requirement when decorating parterres: the area of ​​the main background should prevail over the area of ​​the flower beds and other details in the composition. If the area of ​​the flower beds is equal to the area of ​​the grass base or prevails over it, the impression of fragmentation and diversity is created, there is no integrity in the perception of the whole picture.

The second class is garden lawns. They must be decorative, long-lived, shade-tolerant, resistant to mechanical damage, and also, under certain conditions, drought-resistant. In this case, grasses must be selected with strong turf and various types tillering.

Third class - meadow lawns. They are created by improving the existing grass stand, superficially cultivating the turf and overseeding appropriate grass mixtures.

Lawns were known more than 3 thousand years ago. We find the first mentions of grass sowing in the Bible - both in the old and in the new Testament. In Persia, so-called grass carpets were created in gardens before the new era. Hundreds of years before the new era, one of the first lawns was created in the Chinese Imperial Park of Chew.

Do-it-yourself lawn: site preparation

First of all, carefully remove debris from the site (stones, bricks, slabs, boards and chips, foil, plastic bottles, bags, film). Never bury waste in the ground. With this you will create unfavourable conditions for the growth and development of herbs. Plants in the areas of such burial grounds will be stunted, overwinter poorly, and get sick.

The soil for the lawn should be sufficiently moisture-absorbing so that the plants do not experience a lack of moisture. At the same time, water should not accumulate on it, as this leads to loss of plants. Drainage required in areas where water stagnates after snow melts, rains, or irrigation. It is arranged as follows.

Remove the fertile layer. A layer of gravel (10-15 cm) is laid on the infertile subsoil and compacted. Then pour a layer of sand (10 cm) and also compact it. Fertile soil (10-15 cm) is poured on top, rolling it with a roller weighing at least 100 kg. The skating rink can be replaced with a barrel by pouring water into it.

On heavy clay soils Before digging, add 10 to 15 kg/m2 of sand and, digging, mix it with the soil. On light sandy soils, add 4-5 kg/m2 of peat.

Digging the soil- one of the most necessary and difficult activities in preparation for sowing. The time for digging the site is dictated by the weather: the soil should be slightly moist, not dry. During digging, it is necessary to carefully select and remove stones, roots of trees and shrubs, perennial weeds from the site, and break up clods of earth.

The earth is compacted when it is slightly weathered and dries out after digging. Using a long (2-3 m) flat board, tying a rope along its edges and dragging it across the area, check whether its surface is sufficiently level. Stomp around the area, walk along it in small steps. While trampling, do not let go of the rake: level the ground, collect stones, roots, and debris. In addition, it is advisable to walk on the ground with a roller.

After digging, compacting and leveling, it is recommended to keep the area fallow and for several (4-6 or more) weeks to destroy weeds, dormant seeds or pieces of rhizomes that will gradually germinate. To stimulate weed germination, the area is watered immediately after leveling. These procedures take a lot of time, but are very effective in clearing the area of ​​weeds.

In Europe, lawns appeared after the Crusades. Since the 16th century, they began to arrange lawns for various games. First in the Netherlands - for golf. Then this game (and for it, the lawn!) spread widely in Scotland and England, and later in the USA.
At the end of the 19th century, sports lawns appeared in Russia. The first lawn mowing machine was invented by Edwin Budding in 1830 in Great Britain. English landowners can also be considered the pioneers of laying lawns: it was in the first half of the 19th century that the types of grass that gave the best results when sowing were selected.

Lawn grasses, lawn planting and watering

For sowing, as a rule, mixtures of herbs are used, rather than individual species. A mixture of several (3-5) types of grass adapts and survives on the site more easily under different weather conditions than lawn grass of one type.

The composition of the mixtures usually includes the following types of grasses: fescue (red, sheepsfoot, reed), bentgrass (thin, or shoot-bearing), meadow bluegrass, perennial ryegrass. They are unpretentious, have a low growth rate, high winter hardiness and drought resistance, and actively resist pathogens, pests and weeds.

How many seeds are needed for sowing? Sow 40-50 g/m2, or 4-5 kg ​​per 1 hectare. When purchasing seeds, keep in mind that in the spring of next year, for overseeding and repairing the lawn, you will need an additional approximately 0.5 to 1 kg of seeds per hundred square meters. When stored for a year, seed germination decreases, but only slightly (by 1-2%).

The best time to sow a lawn- spring (May) or late summer (second half of August), when the soil is warm and there is enough moisture. You can sow throughout the summer, even in the hottest weather, if you regularly water the plants and protect the crops with covering material (lutrasil, spunbond). Covering materials can protect the lawn from birds and wind.

Before sowing, the seeds are thoroughly mixed by adding sand or dry soil (1:1). The mixture is divided into two (or more) equal parts and one part is distributed over the surface of the soil, passing along the site, the other - across. Places along paths and along the edge of the lawn are sown somewhat denser. The sown seeds are lightly raked into the ground - this will protect them from drying out.

Water the crops in the evening, with gentle sprinkling so that the seeds are not washed away, abundantly, so that moisture penetrates into the ground to a depth of 10 cm, but do not allow the formation of puddles and prolonged stagnation of water. In dry, hot weather, hopes for rain can turn into seed death if you leave crops without watering for several days. The seeds will swell and hatch, and then dry out before they have time to germinate.

Shoots appear on the 7-21st day after sowing, depending on weather conditions. On average, it takes 2 weeks for seeds to germinate.

In the mid-twentieth century, a revolution took place in the science of lawns: special varieties of grass were bred, highly effective pesticides were created to combat pests and pathogens, and complex mineral fertilizers for lawn grass stands, the main processes in grass care were mechanized.

Lawn care: mowing

In the first year, do not put too much stress on the lawn; try to walk on it as little as possible. Try to protect him from pets, especially dogs.

Lawn mowing not only maintains its appearance, but is also an excellent weed control agent. Most of them cannot tolerate haircuts, and after two or three such procedures you will say goodbye to them forever. Mowing also helps plants to bush on the soil surface, forming additional shoots, creating dense turf, growing with rhizomes.

It should also be taken into account that every mowing is a great stress for the plants. It is easier for them to recover if no more than 1/3 of the stem is cut off at a time, no matter how tall it is.

The first mowing is usually carried out at a time when the soil and grass are dry and the latter have reached a height of 10 cm. For the first time, the very ends of the grass are cut off, no more than 1 cm. The lawn mower blades must be sharp. During subsequent haircuts, the knives are gradually lowered lower and lower.

The density of grass and its resistance to trampling largely depend on the root system of the plants. The more often we mow the lawn and the more we walk on it, the worse the grass takes root and the mass of roots decreases. To preserve and restore the root system, give the grass rest periods. This is possible if the ground part grows to a height of 12-15 cm.

Next time we will tell you how to protect your dacha lawn from diseases.

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Discussion

Comment on the article "Do-it-yourself lawn: what lawn grass to buy, how and when to sow"

Which lawn is best to sow? ...I find it difficult to choose a section. Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. To plant something like this and not take care of it? It turned out to be not a lawn in the full sense, but a flowering meadow. Please advise, please, lawn grass. Now we have become the owners of a plot of several hundred square meters, which...

Discussion

If in the Moscow region, they advised me to take bluegrass. Yesterday I went to OBI and didn’t find any bluegrass, but we bought 50% bluegrass and the rest was other grass. In general, the lawncity company, called MINIMUM, rarely mows and is unpretentious (as it is written). We'll sow tomorrow :-)

We planted our first lawn at the dacha in 2000, we bought very high-quality seeds in Germany, now the lawn looks like in the picture Do-it-yourself lawn: what lawn grass to buy, how and when to sow. We just mow it with a lawn mower and after two years we have a great lawn.

Discussion

I really like clover lawns. low-growing white clover quickly forms a very dense turf, very beautiful to look at, pleasant to walk on and difficult for weed seeds to penetrate into.
this is just IMHO
Also, it’s better to lay a lawn in the fall, when the weeds have already bloomed

We just mow it with a lawn mower and after two years we have a great lawn.
Don't waste your money and energy.

Lawn grass. Arrangement of the site. Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. Cottage and dacha plots: purchase Need advice on lawn. grass Do-it-yourself lawn: what lawn grass to buy, how and when to sow. Lawn grass. Background: 3 years ago at the dacha I leveled the beds and sowed a miracle...

Discussion

I just sowed it from above and covered it with film, as soon as it sprouted - a week later - I opened it. Every year I added 2-3 kg. My lawn takes up 2.5 - 3 acres, 4 kilos was enough for the first time. I took sports grass because... children run around it. The only thing this year is that my lawn is almost completely gone, it’s been a winter without snow and apparently the roots are frozen. At the beginning of May I reached 4 kg. My lawn is made not only of grass but also with clover, which makes it very soft. Sports lawn - the grass is stiffer and the leaves are wider, while in other types the leaves are thin and tender, but wear is severe. IMHO And it wouldn’t hurt to have some sand, so that the ground would be softer. And it’s also very difficult to get rid of the grass tussocks that appear over the years.

Lawn sowing, lawn mowing, lawn watering. On the new site we will now sow a lawn for the lazy. Do-it-yourself lawn: what kind of lawn grass to buy, how and when to sow. We planted our first lawn at the dacha in LAWNS. And is it possible to buy seeds for future use?

Discussion

I see this result regularly. This is my neighbor, her lawn is 7 or 8 years old, about 20 acres of clean lawn. She cuts it weekly, but she has nothing to do - they only have a lawn and trees, and cutting takes two to three hours. Looks great. This is the second year I’ve been cultivating such a “lawn” myself, now instead of coarse grass, small clover has grown on its own. The main thing is not to let it outgrow and cut it regularly.

03/05/2007 10:04:54, Aurorik.

In addition to good germination, they have a relatively uniform color, they are frost-resistant and are not too demanding on the nutritional value of the soil. It is not surprising that all of these grains are present in varying degrees in any grass mixture for lawns.

Depending on the purpose of the lawn, the specifics of the area and personal preferences, various compositions of grasses are selected, which are commonly called grass mixtures for lawns. Whether it is a site that does not require mowing, or turf that is resistant to trampling, the composition of the grass mixture for lawns will vary in each case.

Landscape lawn: composition of grasses

Caring for a garden or regular lawn does not require constant intervention. The grass cover is dense and hides the occasional presence of wild grasses, in particular creeping wheatgrass. Therefore, no special lawn grass is required - broad-leaved grasses with the addition of fescue and bentgrass are suitable.

What grass to sow for a garden lawn?

Bluegrass (Poa nemoralis)

Perennial lawn grass that forms loose, soft turf. It grows in height about 30–100 cm. The width of the leaf blades is 1.5–2 mm. Flowering occurs in May–June, panicle size is 10 cm.

This grass is usually included in lawn grass mixtures, broken at the foot of the trees, does not require good lighting. Moist, acidic soil is suitable. But frequent cuttings of the Bluegrass lead to its loss and depletion.

Meadow bluegrass (Poa pratensis)

Ornamental grass for lawns, perennial, grows up to 100 cm. Loose turf consists of narrow leaves. June–July is the flowering period. The plant prefers meadows, fields, steppes, illuminated edges, and is not afraid of trampling.
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Ordinary lawns, especially on light rocky soils and shady areas, almost always contain. Please note that this lawn grass is not suitable for planting on chalky and overly moist soils. In addition, frequent low haircuts are contraindicated for her.

Among the varieties of Meadowgrass, the most suitable grasses for the lawn are:

• 'Andante' - squat plants, characterized by increased resistance to diseases such as leaf spot.
• 'Connie' - low-growing turfs, colored in rich green color. They grow thickly. The variety is resistant to many diseases and trampling.
• 'Compact' - representatives of this variety with narrow leaves are also resistant to mechanical stress, are characterized by rapid growth, and tolerate dry periods well.
• 'Balin' - increased endurance, resistance to diseases, fast growth- the main characteristics of this variety.
• ‘Sobra’ - a rather attractive and very resistant variety to external influences.

Annual bluegrass (Poa annua)

Usually an annual, but occasionally a perennial herb. The sods are from 5 to 35 cm tall, the panicles are small - no more than 1 cm. The plant prefers to settle near the road, hides in ditches, and quickly fills trampled places. If ordinary lawns only benefit from the presence of Poa annua, then in ground lawns it is considered a weed.

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The species grows in any soil and is great for low cutting. At high temperatures, leaves turn yellow and lawn grass may fall out.

Common bluegrass (Poa triviales)

Forms sods with short creeping rhizomes. The stem size is 20–120 cm, the width of the smooth leaves is up to 6 mm, the color is bright green. The species is distinguished by its ability to quickly take root, prefers heavy and calcareous soils, and likes to settle in damp areas. However, the plant is not particularly frost-resistant. In addition, the common bluegrass loses its attractive appearance with prolonged trampling and is not resistant to drought.

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Perennial ryegrass (Lolium perenne)

Distinctive feature this species has a pink tint at the base of young leaves. The leaf blades themselves are light green, 4 mm thick. Some varieties are characterized by even narrower leaves, slow growth and good tolerance to low haircuts.

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The plant is a common component of grass mixtures for garden lawns. It tolerates heavy soils well, is resistant to trampling, and can grow quickly. Popular varieties of perennial ryegrass:

• 'Figaro' - multi-purpose use, increased resistance to trampling, dense cover and immunity to many diseases - the main differences of the perennial Ryegrass variety ‘Figaro’.
• 'Taya' - used to create a multi-purpose lawn, providing a thick and healthy looking surface. The main characteristics are resistance to drought, endurance, increased resistance to trampling.
• 'Sakini' - plants of this variety are characterized by slow growth, but quickly take root. Wear-resistant.
• 'Juventus' - this variety was bred specifically as ornamental grass for lawns, creating a dense cover of green, medium-thick leaves. Plants are distinguished by increased resistance to stress, in particular - elevated temperatures, fungi that cause leaf rust.
• 'Skor' - representatives of this variety quickly take root, forming wear-resistant, dense, high turf.
• 'Danilo' - grasses suitable for forming beautiful lawns, with narrow green or dark green leaf blades. They grow densely and are resistant to wear.

Meadow fescue (Festuca pratensis)

Another perennial grass for lawns arranged in moderately moist areas. When flooded with melt water, it can grow for about a month without harming its health. This meadow plant can reach a height of 140 cm, but is usually much lower (30–100 cm). The leaves are narrow and flat. Meadow fescue blooms in June, panicle size up to 18 mm. Resistant to trampling.

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Timothy grass (Phleum pratense)

The plants form loose bushes, the height of the stems, swollen at the base, is from 15 to 120 cm, the width of the green/gray-green leaves is up to 10 mm. Added to grass mixtures for gardening and meadow lawns.

Meadow Timothy grass turfs are not afraid of trampling; they prefer moist, heavy soils. Low cutting is contraindicated, as is planting in sandy soil.

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Common comb (Cynosurus cristatus)

The stem height of this perennial is from 20 to 75 cm, the leaf blades are very narrow. Flowering occurs in June–July, and dense spike-shaped panicles are formed.

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It grows well on light soils; in nature, its usual habitat is meadows and clearings. Resistant to trampling.

How to choose grass mixtures for parterre lawns?

The emerald green of the parterre lawn is distinguished by its uniform color and perfectly flat surface. This effect can be achieved by the presence of Polevitsa in the grass mixture for lawns. various types, Fescue. But perennial ryegrass and cereals with wide leaf blades are contraindicated for entry there. In Russia, meadow bluegrass is usually used to create a ground lawn. And of course, such an area requires regular low haircuts.

The best grass mixtures for the ground floor (or as it is also called the “English lawn”) include the following types of cereals:

Sheep fescue (Festuca ovina)

A perennial lawn grass that forms dense turf or tussocks. The height of the stems is from 20 to 40 cm, the leaf blades are very narrow - no more than 0.7 mm. Meadows, sands, forests, clearings, clearings - the plant is widespread throughout Russia. It is well tolerated by regular mowing, drought-resistant and wear-resistant.

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In addition to lawns, they are used to create rocky gardens and mixed borders.

The best varieties:

• 'Discovery' - hair-like leaves are dark green in color, forming a dense grass stand. Compared to other varieties of Sheep Fescue ‘Discovery’ is the most resistant to drought and best tolerates soil salinity.
• 'Triana' And ‘Ridu’ - distinctive feature These varieties have increased drought resistance and the ability to quickly adapt.

Red fescue (Festuca rubra)

The rhizomes of this perennial form loose turf. The base of the flat leaves is colored red with a brown tint, the width of the leaf blades is up to 2.5 mm, the maximum height of the stem is about 80 cm. Flowering occurs in June–August, the spike-shaped panicle is up to 10 cm in size. In nature, it prefers clearings, meadows, sandy soils . It is frost-resistant, tolerates trampling well, and is not afraid of shaded places. This species is included in almost all popular grass mixtures for lawns.

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Red fescue subspecies red (Festuca rubra subsp.rubra)

Rhizomatous grass. The leaves are very narrow and grow in bunches. The plant is drought- and frost-resistant and thrives in light soils. It grows quite slowly, so it can mix with other slow-growing fescue species. It is found in both ground floor and sports lawns.

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• 'Pernille' - valued for its narrow, very durable leaves, thick cover and increased resistance to diseases.
• 'Diego' - glossy soft green leaves delight the eye throughout the growing season.
• 'Laxton' - this variety is distinguished by thick cover and increased resistance to rust. Due to its glossy leaves, it looks good on home lawns.
• 'Rapid' , 'Rubina' , 'Echo' - the most famous varieties, are popular as drought-resistant and reliable in growing grass.

Variable red fescue (Festuca rubra commutata)

Parterre lawns cannot do without this species. It gets along without problems with other grass-like grasses, the most aggressive of which can displace variable red fescue. The plant quickly takes root, forming dense turf without shoots. It tolerates low haircuts, withstands drought well, and prefers light soils.

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Dog bentgrass (Agrostis canina)

The height of this perennial grass is no more than 30 cm. The rhizomes are thin, short, the shoots take root on the surface, forming an elastic, dense turf of rich green shades. The plant likes to settle on waterlogged peat soils, but it also masters other types of soil well. It is frost-resistant and tolerates lack of lighting well.

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The first year grows at a slow pace, formation occurs in the second, and more often in the third year.

Slender bentgrass (Agrostis capillaris)

The short rhizomes of this perennial form into a loose turf covering. The height of the stem is 10–60 cm, the width of the delicate bright green leaves is up to 4 mm.

Prefers glades, sandy soils, and low-growing meadows. The grass is characterized by slow growth; regular cutting allows you to form a neat grassy canvas with a dense structure. resistant to frequent pruning, but does not tolerate trampling.

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White bentgrass (Agrostis alba)

A distinctive feature of this lawn grass is its ability to form numerous shoots, as well as its branched root system, good for holding soil together. In this case, a strong elastic turf is formed. Dark green leaves reach a width of 2 mm.

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The grass grows slowly in the year of planting, loves light soils, but tolerates sandy loam and loam well. Resistant to trampling and frequent pruning. Decorative for proper care up to 10 years of age. It is used in lawns for various purposes.

Bentgrass (Agrostis stolonifera)

A perennial loose-turf grass with creeping shoots up to 40 cm long. Flat short leaf blades are painted light green, reach no more than 5 cm in length and up to 2 mm in width. As the name implies, it is capable of producing long lateral shoots, which easily (and most importantly, independently) take root in the event of damage to the mother plant. This property often attracts inexperienced gardeners and often leads to uncontrolled growth of the grass, taking over any more or less free space.

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The plant prefers loamy, sandy loam and sandy soils, but it is also not afraid of saline and acidic areas. Frost-resistant, resistant to spring damping. However, in the fall it requires cutting as low as possible, otherwise in the spring the grass will be withered.

Varieties of bentgrass:

• ‘Prominent’ - high density of grass stand, narrow dark green leaves make it possible to use this grass, in particular, for arranging golf courses. The variety is distinguished by increased resistance to pink spot.
• 'Cromie' - forms magnificent lawns, suitable for forming the cover of a golf course. Provides dense grass and is resistant to low mowing. Differs in winter hardiness.

Grasses suitable for meadow lawns

A meadow is an area with herbaceous plants whose stems are relatively stiff. Heavy trampling of such a lawn is contraindicated. Just like frequent haircuts, which is enough once a month.

The composition of the grass mixture for a meadow lawn should include flora characteristic of the local natural area. In particular this could be:

Soddy pike (Deschampsia cespitosa)

The leaves are light green in color and up to 3 mm wide. and stems from 30 to 100 cm long form turf hummocks. A very ornamental grass, it prefers swampy meadows and the banks of water bodies, and is characterized by the ability to form entire thickets. Well suited for mixborders.

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Pussinellia distans

Perennial turf grass with stems from 15 to 50 cm long and dark green leaves about 55 mm. width. In nature, grass can be found on the banks of reservoirs, along dirt roads, and saline soils. Not observed in culture.

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Soft brome (Bromus mollis)

An annual, rather ornamental grass, not picky about the type of soil. Long flowering - May–September. Reacts well to mowing.

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Bromeless brome (Bromopsis inermis)

A perennial herb, it has a cord-like rhizome with root shoots. The stem grows up to 100 cm, the dark green leaves are quite wide - from 4 to 10 mm. The habitat of the cereal is sparse forests, meadows, and riverine sands. The awnless brome is distinguished by its unpretentiousness, resistance to mowing and trampling, and is not afraid of shaded and waterlogged areas. Reacts well to the application of nitrogen fertilizers.

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Hedgehog (Dactylis glomerata)

Shade-tolerant perennial grass, grows 35–120 cm in height. The leaves, reaching a width of 5 to 20 mm, have a light green color. Prefers meadows, can settle along roads. Hedgehog grows well on fertile soils, but with sufficient aeration it does well on heavy loamy and moderately acidic soils.

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Foxtail (Alopecurus geniculatus)

Annual or biennial up to 40 cm high with green leaves. Due to the painted purple the anthers of the flowering Foxtail are especially decorative. The banks of reservoirs, wet, swampy soils - this is where representatives of this species can usually be found.

Meadow foxtail (Alopecurus pratensis)

Perennial lawn grass that forms loose turf. The height of the stems is from 50 to 120 cm, the width of the juicy green leaves is from 4 to 6 mm. The anthers of the cylindrical inflorescence are white and pink; the flowering period occurs in June - at this time the plant has its most decorative appearance.

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Meadow foxtail prefers sandy, poor soils, is not afraid of prolonged flooding by rain and melt water, and tolerates mowing well.

Wheatgrass (Elymus repens)

The perennial has very long branched rhizomes and stems from 50 to 120 cm long. Leaf blades are up to 10 mm wide. Prefers glades, meadows, coastal sandy soils. The plant is not suitable for parterre and garden lawns; there it is considered a weed. Component of grass mixture for special purpose lawns, lawn component.

The grass is polymorphic, comes in bluish and green shades, is hairy and bare. Any soil is suitable for its cultivation.

The correct composition of grass mixture for lawns: we prepare it ourselves

Typically, manufacturers sell ready-made grass seed mixtures for lawns with a balanced ratio of different types. But, having the necessary planting material, you can mix the seeds yourself. Here are examples of the most common grass mixtures for various classes of lawns.

Gardening:

• Thin bentgrass - 1 part;
• Red fescue - 2 parts;
• Variable red fescue - 3 parts;
• Meadow bluegrass - 4 parts.

Parterre:

• Red fescue - 2 parts;
• Thin bentgrass - 8 parts.

Lugovoy:

• Meadow fescue 1 part
• Red fescue 3 parts
• Perennial ryegrass 6 parts.

Lawn is a piece of grass-covered land created by sowing specially selected seeds of different grasses, which is an element landscape design.

Features of grass for lawns

Lawn grass - the proportion of grass seeds designed by experts for creating lawns. The selection of these seeds was carried out for many years, and the required ratio was determined experimentally.

The vegetation that forms the lawn cover was bred in accordance with the conditions of a certain climatic and geographical zone, which allows the plants to adapt to the weather conditions characteristic of a particular region. An important advantage is that lawn grass does not need to be sown every year; it is capable of tillering, that is, it grows independently and compacts the lawn surface.

Thick turf blocks access to weeds, making the lawn more uniform. Grasses and leaves for the lawn are more elegant and smaller in size, which gives the coating a velvety feel, resistance to external influences and the ability to easily restore its original shape. It should be remembered that the number of grasses suitable for creating a lawn is small, and many species are unsuitable.

Therefore, when purchasing ready-made mixtures you need to immediately pay attention to the varieties included in their composition. Neither harsh winter temperatures nor summer heat should pose a danger to such grass, and do not forget about proper care.

Types of lawns

Exist different types and types of lawns, among which the most notable are parterre, ordinary, meadow, sports, Moorish and piece, each of which has its own characteristics.

Parterre

Shady areas are detrimental to the ground lawn and a large number of moisture. It needs regular sun exposure, does not tolerate weeds, and requires trimming every 10 days. The area of ​​the ground lawn should exceed the area of ​​the flower beds and flower beds, and walking and sitting on it is extremely undesirable. IN summer period it should be protected from fading, and in winter time- from freezing, but despite this, this option is the best decorative lawn.
It would be best to lay out a ground lawn in front of the front of the house or in the center of a large garden, but the main criterion when choosing a specific location is good lighting. When preparing an area for a lawn, be sure to remove all foreign objects that could harm the grass root system. It is also worth considering that providing drainage reduces the risk of puddles even during the heaviest rains, and its absence leads to the formation of yellow spots on the grass and can cause rotting of the root system.

Automatic irrigation will be indispensable if you install invisible watering heads on your lawn. To rid the area of ​​weeds (thistle, hogweed) as much as possible, it is necessary to loosen the soil to a depth of 25 cm. Digging is done using a walk-behind tractor, after which the soil is loosened with a cultivator. Most effective method getting rid of weeds - removing the native soil (it is necessary to remove 30 cm old land and apply crushed stone, sand and black soil instead).

Other weed control methods include mulching, freezing the soil, and using herbicides.

For example, application herbicide "Roundup", is completely harmless to the soil and will easily solve the weed problem. The area is processed in dry weather, taking precautions: be sure to wear a gauze respirator and protective gloves. Proportion - 120 ml per 10 liters of water. A week later, the area is dug up again and sprayed again. To prevent weeds from growing along the edges of the lawn, their area should be separated with crushed stone or fine gravel.

- the main component of a parterre lawn, which requires alkaline and humus soils, although slightly acidic soils (you can deoxidize the soil with ground chalk) enriched with lime are also suitable for it. , which is also included in such lawns, needs constant watering and will not grow well in heavy clay soil.

The best fertilizers for living carpet are nitrogen(improves the color and quality of the grass), phosphorus(strengthens vegetative organ, enhances tillering) and potassium(increases the resistance of cereals to drought and diseases). Fertilizing is required regularly, but the first time it is applied to the soil 5 days before sowing.

Will be useful rolling(preparing land for a lawn) and compaction soil. A flat surface without bumps and depressions is compacted using a heavy hand roller (the procedure is performed only in dry weather), and after 10 days it is watered using the sprinkling method (moisture must penetrate at least 25 cm deep into the ground) and sown.

Planting by hand, tractor or horse-drawn seeder is done either in late August or early to mid-May, when there is no risk of sudden frost. For the most accurate and uniform placement of herbs, before sowing, the area should be marked into mutually perpendicular zones up to 2 m wide. After sowing, the seeds are embedded in the ground with a rake, and then rolled slightly with a hand roller.

Next it is useful to carry out mulching, mixing peat, sand and garden soil. This procedure will increase the fertile layer and protect against the germination of weeds. Calm weather is ideal for seeding a lawn.

The parterre lawn is done every evening using soft water, and aeration promotes better soil moisture. In summer, the lawn is watered twice a day: early in the morning and late in the evening.

Haircuts Parterre lawns are mowed using cylindrical lawn mowers with rotating blades attached to a spiral. For large areas, it is better to choose a lawn mower with a wide grip, which will make maintenance much easier, although cordless shears will be enough for small areas. The first mowing is carried out in the spring, when the grass reaches a height of 8 cm.

A lawn mower is not dangerous for young seedlings; on the contrary, trampling while mowing increases the tillering of the grass. For the first time, they remove a little (only the ends), but in the future, cutting is carried out when the height of the grass reaches approximately 5 cm. Regular implementation of the procedure - Excellent weed prevention. In addition, it also gives the lawn a well-groomed appearance and promotes the formation of thick turf.

In lawn care important point is the timely removal of leaf litter, which causes grass to rot under the snow and die in the spring, as well as autumn sanding, which improves the flow of air into the soil and rids it of weeds (the proportion of adding sand per 100 m² is 0.1 m³).

Ordinary lawns

The composition of an ordinary lawn is dominated by ryegrass - perennial and broadleaf grasses, supplemented with admixtures of bentgrass or fescue. The growth processes of plants of this species at any time of the year are more intense than all others, so pruning needs to be done much more often.

For an ordinary lawn, a place that is maximally illuminated by the sun is suitable, although the soil must be improved through agrotechnical measures and fertilizing the soil with microelements.

After this, all that remains is to level and compact the surface of the prepared soil, water it well and fertilize it. Successful seed germination will be facilitated by a soil temperature of no lower than +8 °C, as well as comfortable humidity and air temperature of no more than +25 °C.

Exist different types sowing lawns, but based on the presence/absence special equipment Among them, there are two main options: manually or with a special seeder. The seeds are deepened into the ground by 0.5 cm, after which they are pressed down with a roller. Seedlings cannot be completely buried, as they sprout only in the presence of sufficient light.

Having deepened the seeds, water them with thin streams of water, but only very carefully so as not to wash them out of the ground. You can fertilize seedlings with phosphate, but only after the seeds have sprouted and thin green threads have appeared above the ground, the first cutting is immediately after the grass has rooted and reached 5-7 cm.

Important!The lawn is capable of retaining dust well (up to 60 tons are retained from 1 hectare).

Meadow lawns

This type of lawn is intended for walking and relaxing. It is mainly located in park areas and near residential buildings, creating beautiful meadows complemented by flowers. To obtain the desired strength of a meadow lawn, the necessary grasses are additionally sown in addition to those already growing. The purpose of meadow lawns is to highlight colorful landscapes against a backdrop of trees and shrubs, as well as create a perspective on groves or complement areas near bodies of water.
Mowing a mature meadow depends on the number of bulbous plants grown on it and the desired grass height. The first cutting is carried out when the grass for the lawn has risen to 8 cm, after which it is cut to the same height every two weeks.

Using a garden trowel, it is necessary to periodically dig up weeds, but herbicides can be used only six months after growing the turf and a year after sowing the seeds. First mowing herbs are carried out after the last flower has faded (if there are bulbous plants) or in early July.

To maintain a neat appearance, you need to mow at least once a month so that the grass does not reach a height of more than 10 cm. The last mowing is done in September, for which a rotary lawn mower is used.

Sports lawns

Basic grasses for sports turfs - perennial ryegrass, white bentgrass and clover that can withstand loads well. Among all types of sports lawns, the features and characteristics of this lawn option are among the most acceptable. It quickly returns elasticity, and its durability depends on the type of soil, drainage and composition of the grass mixture.
Sowing seeds for sports turf are made taking into account the possibilities of their germination. To create a football field use meadow bluegrass and red fescue. The place that puts the greatest load on the grass is the goal area, and therefore in this area the seeding rate needs to be increased.

Rapid grass growth can be achieved by using grass mixture of bentgrass and ryegrass. Occasionally good aerate lawn to avoid waterlogging of the soil, it would also be useful to Regular mowing and fertilizing with nitrogen.

Most often it grows on the tennis court meadow bluegrass or red fescue, since it requires a perfectly smooth and leveled surface that will ensure an accurate rebound of the ball from the lawn. The grass should be cut low and regularly (2 times a month).

The children's playground is formed meadow timothy, clover and ryegrass. Timely fertilization and aeration of the lawn, mowing once every few weeks, and reseeding grass in damaged areas is the key to a presentable appearance of the sports lawn, the creation of which is best postponed until mid-May - late September.

Moorish lawns

Moorish lawns are one of the most popular types of lawns in landscape design. It contains seeds of wild flowers and cereal herbs. Most often, growers mix bright red oriental poppy, blue field cornflower, meadow chamomile, echinacea, bluebells, large-flowered flax and nemesia.
These flowers are good honey plants, which attract both butterflies and bees with their bright and fragrant inflorescences.

You can also include bulbous species that bloom in spring: tulips, crocuses, daffodils, because they will create wonderful compositions with cereal herbs - thin bentgrass, meadow timothy, ryegrass.

The number of cereal herbs should exceed the number of flowers (most often the proportion taken into account is 80:20). The ideal place for a Moorish lawn would be a small clearing flooded with sunlight, a gap between trees, or an area along the border of a property. Before autumn sowing, the area is cleared of weeds and dug up to a depth of 15-20 cm, and then fertilizers are applied, filling the soil with manure to a depth of 5 cm, and again dug up to a depth of 40 cm. The soil is rolled into a cylindrical container filled with water.

Seeds are sown 2 weeks after preparation, or in spring: from April to June. They are added to moist soil, increasing the rate for manual sowing by 10%. You can also mix seeds, which will make the lawn colorful, or plant cereals first, then flowers, which will create some islands, which is also quite beautiful. Before planting, water the soil, after which the seeds are deepened by 5 mm. At least 50 g of seeds are required per 1 m². You can plant large bulbous plants, filling them with spaces that are empty after

annual plants , and also supplement the composition with small crops, placing them in groups of 10 pieces. It is advisable to cover the ground with non-woven material to ensure uniform germination, which will appear in one to two weeks. The Moorish lawn also requires careful, abundant watering and regular weeding, which will help avoid the appearance of a large number of weeds.

First haircutcarried out when cereal shoots appear, while there are no flower sprouts (this way the grass will not block the flower growth). In the summer, the piece lawn grows and blooms, just like a natural planting, but in the autumn, seeding begins, and it again needs to be cut (the mowing height should not exceed 12 cm). The frequency of further mowing is determined by the owner.

Artificial turf has enough good characteristics. It is characterized by practicality, endurance, versatility, and aesthetics. It is a roll that is very easy to lay, simply rolling out on a flat area. For fixation, baseboards and corners are used around the perimeter, and in large areas it is discreetly attached with staples.

Artificial turf, unlike natural lawn, does not wear out, is not affected by temperatures and is not afraid of direct sunlight. With it you can create stylish element garden, decorate a balcony or store window.

There are two types of artificial turf: with and without drainage system. The drainage covering is suitable for laying out lawns in the open air (it will allow water to pass through and will do an excellent job of draining water).

Drainage-free options tend to retain moisture, which is why they are used indoors. Periodic thorough cleaning of the surface will help preserve the original color and shape of the lawn, as well as increase its service life.

Important!The lawn produces oxygen more effectively than the same crowns of trees, since thanks to constant mowing it is able to more intensively form new shoots and leaves.

What types of lawn grass are there?

Lawn grass is divided into several types.

By type of root system

Based on the type of shoot formation and root system, grass lawn grasses are divided into rhizomatous, loose-bush, rhizomatous-loose-bush and dense-bush.

Tillering unit rhizomatous grass is located shallow in the ground. The development of new root shoots begins horizontally below the soil surface, and sometimes several underground nodes are formed.

The underground stem, at a certain distance from the node, bends upward, rises to the surface of the soil and forms a new plant with an independent stem and a root system with rhizome shoots.

These plants flower and produce seeds. Regular vegetative propagation allows you to preserve the grass stand for many years. Rhizomatous lawn grasses:red fescue, common bluegrass, marsh grass, alpine bluegrass, white bentgrass, meadow foxtail.

U loose bush cereals, the tillering node is also shallow, and the stem comes out, rising upward at an acute angle and forming a tillering node in the soil, on which buds appear again. They develop new shoots that again emerge to the top of the soil at a short distance from the old ones.

Only one tillering node is formed underground, but the development of underground shoots does not occur, while a loose bush is formed above the ground, representing a large number of branches. For loose bush cerealsinclude meadow fescue, perennial ryegrass, common comb grass, etc. They do not form dense turf, but the grass stand evenly closes. Reproduction occurs only by seeds.

Rhizome-loose bushes cereal grasses create underground shoots of varying lengths. From the underground part, which bends upward and gives rise to a rosette at the bend, new plants develop, bushing like loose bushes.

From the buds, which are located in the axils of the leaves, rhizomes are formed, which form rosette areas at the bend.

Grasses form an elastic, strong turf, and also form shoots of bushy rosettes, which are connected to each other by different rhizomes, as a result of which underground roots grow evenly over the soil surface. These plants are meadow bluegrass, red fescue, common bentgrass.

U dense bush grass tillering node is located above the surface of the ground. The new shoot that develops from the bud is tightly attached to the old one. At the same time, the roots of a new branch appear and grow. Such plants look like dense bushes, with dying parts inside and younger parts located at the edges. Dense bushy plants are: sheep fescue, white fescue, fescue, some types of red fescue.

Leguminous herbs are pivotal plants. A rod is formed in the underground part, and a shoot is formed in the above-ground part. The main shoot is presented in the form of a root collar and is often shortened. New shoots grow from buds that grow on the root collar, after which they form a bush on the ground that resembles a loose cereal.

All new bushes develop on one taproot, which with age becomes more and more branched and compacted, penetrating deeply into the soil. Only one individual shoot lives growing season , but in general, all plants are perennial:

red clover, white clover, hybrid clover, blue clover, hop clover, yellow alfalfa, seed sainfoin, marsh frog.

By height Based on the possible height of the grass, all lawn grasses are divided into 3 main tiers. In the upper are herbs that love light - riding . They bush little and form large, coarse leaves and stems. This

narrow wheatgrass, creeping wheatgrass, blue alfalfa. herbs are in the lower tier. Their thin shoots reach a height of 70 cm, bush intensively after mowing, and form a dense mass of shortened leaves and stems ( meadow bluegrass, red fescue, horned common grass).

Between the lower and higher grasses grow semi-mountain. They have tall shoots (from 70 to 100 cm), which form numerous shortened shoots, giving bushes of medium density. Most of them grow back quickly after cutting and tend to bush well.

This group includes perennial ryegrass, meadow timothy, hybrid clover, etc.

By life cycle length

There are annual, biennial and perennial species grasses for lawns.

U annuals herbs complete their development cycle in the first year of life. When the seeds ripen, all above-ground and underground parts of the plant die. This group includes annual ryegrass, annual bluegrass, etc..

First growing season two-year-olds The growth of herbs ends with the formation of roots, stems, leaves, and fruiting shoots on which flowers, fruits and seeds develop are formed in the second year.

After the seeds ripen, biennial plants (e.g. multifloral ryegrass or hop-like alfalfa), finally die off.

Perennial herbs have the ability to grow and bear fruit for many years. Among them we can highlight wheatgrass and bluegrass.

Classification of grass mixtures

Grass mixtures for lawns have the following types.

Fast

Fast ones include meadow fescue, meadow timothy, meadow bluegrass. Herbs grow well in moist soil, develop quickly and within a year produce a luxurious green cover, although they are short-lived (to prolong life, it is worth combining with other herbs).

Shadow

Shade plants include red fescue and perennial ryegrass, which thrive in dark areas and are highly resistant to trampling.

Solar

Can withstand constant sun rays and drought sheep fescue, as well as meadow bluegrass and hop alfalfa.

Universal

The most universal is called bentgrass, which can be grown in frost, heat and drought, but it has significant drawback– after mowing it slows down its growth.

What is better: mono-lawn or grass mixture?

Mono-lawns grow well only in excellent light, quickly return to their original shape after mechanical stress, and also grow very quickly. Gardeners are often faced with a choice: a monolawn or a grass mixture and prefer to use a grass mixture, which is less demanding in terms of care and conditions, copes better with weeds and is not so capricious in watering.

The best grasses and grass mixtures for growing lawns

There are a number of criteria for cereal grasses: frost resistance, external decorativeness, developed root system, good rate of cover growth after mowing, ability for vegetative propagation, adaptation to climatic conditions.

The best herbs can be called fine bentgrass, red fescue and meadow grass, which are not afraid of temperature changes, withstand frosts, form dense turf, are protected from weeds, and can be mowed frequently. In addition, they reproduce quickly by vegetative means.

It grows slowly, so the cover will appear only in the second year. However, building up the root system meadow bluegrass passes quite slowly, so it is more practical to choose a mixture in which it will be the main component. Thin bentgrass- unpretentious and frost-resistant plant with a rich emerald hue.

Lawn mixtures may contain other herbs. For example, bluegrass, is able to grow in partial shade, which eliminates bald spots from the lawn, but at the same time it does not tolerate movement and constant mowing. Swamp bluegrass- forms a beautiful cover and strong roots, but is not durable (it can be combined with white bentgrass or dog bentgrass).

Adds aesthetics meadow fescue- fast-growing grass that forms a thick carpet. Has excellent growth perennial ryegrass, as well as unpretentious and refined annual bluegrass. The hummocks form sheep fescue and turf fescue, therefore undesirable for lawns.

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A lawn mixture is a specific composition of grasses or grains that is intended to create a lawn. In fact, the terms “lawn” and “lawn mixture” are almost identical.

However, there is one significant difference between them. The mixture is the material that allows you to create a green lawn, and the lawn is the final result that is obtained through the use of the lawn mixture.

Types and characteristics of lawns

Today the most common types of lawns are:

• Ground lawn- one of the most spectacular types. Usually it can be seen in front of the main entrance to the house or in decorative corners of the garden. The ground lawn is distinguished by uniformity of coverage. This is achieved by using perennial materials to create it. low growing grasses, for example, perennial ryegrass. It has a number of disadvantages: in severe winters it can freeze completely and it is undesirable to walk on it.

Attention! The ground lawn is very demanding when it comes to watering. If this condition is not met, the grass may dry out.

• Ordinary lawn– Compared to the ground lawn, this variety is not as decorative. It consists of perennial grasses, such as red fescue. Main advantage The advantage of an ordinary lawn is that it is not prohibited to walk on it, and it grows even in unfavorable weather conditions.
• meadow lawn– consists of grasses with tough stems, such as timothy grass. The peculiarity of this type is that it is trimmed only once a month. For gardeners who don’t have much time at their disposal, this option is a real boon. The only one minus meadow lawn- it does not withstand mechanical damage well, and therefore for active rest not suitable.
• – is a thin layer of turf (pressed wood and grass), rolled into a tight roll.

Main characteristics:

• The grass is grown in special nurseries and only after two years (this time is enough to form a lawn) goes on sale;
• Does not require careful care;
• High speed of landscaping (you can lay a rolled lawn on your site in just one day).

Let us add that this type of lawn allows you to forget about weeds for at least five years. This action is achieved by coating density(the weed cannot break through the turf layer), as well as the presence of special grasses (clover, meadow bluegrass, bentgrass) that displace weeds.

Artificial turf– roll covering, which consists of synthetic threads. The differences between this lawn are:

• Easy to care for (does not require watering or special fertilizing);
• Can be used in harsh climatic conditions.

Despite significant advantages, artificial turf is not particularly popular. This is explained by the fact that the grass lacks natural softness and specific aroma.

Sports turf– this is a turf covering (a layer of earth on which grass or steppe cereals grow). A feature of a sports turf is high elasticity and density. Such a lawn usually consists of several types of grasses: timothy grass, red fescue and perennial ryegrass. Sports turf has a number of advantages:

• Resistant to frost and sweltering heat;
• Slowly grows, does not require frequent cutting;
• Withstands mechanical loads well;
• After receiving damage, it quickly recovers.

Lawn mixture: main features

Almost all lawn mixtures (including those with clover) consist of three types of herbs. These are red fescue, meadow bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass. Knotweed seeds can also sometimes be seen in grass mixtures.

Several herbal mixtures have received good reviews. Let's talk about some of them:

• "Lilliputian". A distinctive feature is the slow growth of grass.
• "Emerald". The main advantage is that the lawn tolerates severe frosts well, in addition, it has high wear resistance.
• "Ornamental". Mainly used for parks and areas located outside the city. Can adapt to any climatic conditions.
• "Robustica". It is used for decorating roadsides, slopes, parks and squares.

In addition to lawns that consist of special grass mixtures, there are lawns that include only one plant (monoculture). A good example this kind - clover lawn. It has a number of characteristic features:

• Grows well only in illuminated areas;
• Recovers quickly from mechanical stress (running, cycling);
• It is growing rapidly.

Let us add that gardeners who decide to create a green lawn on their site generally prefer grass mixtures. This is explained by the fact that monoculture lawns are very demanding to care for (they need to be frequently trimmed, watered, etc.)

Criteria for choosing seeds for a lawn

In order for the lawn to quickly take root and not cause additional troubles in the future, you need to choose the right seeds.

• It is better to buy seeds that designed for your climate zone(usually this information is indicated on the packaging of the grass mixture);
• Consider the characteristics land plot: soil type (light, loamy, peaty), shade, degree of moisture:
• For light soils Suitable mixtures include, for example, common clam, clover, hedgehog, and golden oats. For loamy areas, Swedish clover, English ryegrass, timothy, creeping bentgrass, and fragrant spikelet are good. White bentgrass, meadow foxtail, marsh frogwort, and meadow bluegrass grow well on peat soil;
• if the plot shaded, then it is better to purchase special mixtures (shade-tolerant), which usually include perennial ryegrass or chaff;
• if on site wet soil, then a grass mixture would be a winning option; the bark contains bentgrass (it grows well in damp places). For areas with dry soil, it is better to choose grass mixtures containing red fescue, comb grass, and common bentgrass.
• The grass mixture should purchased based on its purpose. For example, if you plan to walk on the lawn frequently, then it is best to give preference to a sports lawn;
• Please note the seller's availability quality certificate. This will eliminate unexpected surprises, for example, poor seed germination.

You can buy lawn mixtures in specialized stores. The minimum price for 1 kg is 500 rubles. The maximum cost depends on the variety and can reach 900 rubles.

Another important stage when creating a lawn - correct calculation of the number of seeds.

For 1 sq. m. is usually enough 30-50 gr. seeds. For example, if you need to sow an area of ​​20 square meters. m., you need to purchase 900 gr. herbal mixture.

Finally, let’s add that even the most unpretentious lawn requires constant attention. It needs to be trimmed periodically, watered, weeds removed, and new seeds sown. Only with systematic care can your lawn become a source of pride.

The features of choosing a lawn variety and care products are discussed in this video: