Cactus is a very beautiful and unpretentious plant that looks very beautiful in any interior. Currently, there are more than a thousand varieties of succulents, differing from each other in size, shape and flowering. Like all other flowers, this plant has its own characteristics, which especially need to be taken into account by beginning cactus growers, especially when it comes to planting them. This article will talk about how to plant a cactus without roots in pots correctly.

What to consider when choosing dishes for planting succulents

If you are interested in the question of how to grow a cactus from a small shoot so that it can quickly take root and delight the eye with its beauty for a very long time, you need to take into account a lot of nuances, including the right approach to choosing dishes. Most often, experts advise buying pots for succulents that are made of plastic. The thing is, plastic containers do not absorb water and do not change temperature when exposed to various conditions environment.

Many novice gardeners are sure that it is best to plant cacti in tight containers small size. However, this opinion is erroneous. The fact is that succulents grow in a dry, arid climate and have a very long root system, therefore, in too small pots the roots will be very crowded and soon the plant will slowly die. It is best to purchase wide and deep dishes, in which there will be enough space for the growth of the root system, and in such a pot the plant will receive the right amount of moisture and nutrients.

In order to transplant a cactus yourself at home, you can use dishes from different materials, the only exceptions are hardware. The ideal solution for prickly “friends” would be dishes made of ceramics or clay; you can also use yogurt cups and even coconut shells.

Containers for planting cactus may be different

What is the best place to place plants?

So, before we talk about how to plant a cactus without roots with children, we will first find out in what place it is necessary to place the dishes with plants. Experienced flower growers The prickly “friends” are divided into several groups:

• Forest varieties.
• Desert varieties.

The latter prefer an abundance of sunlight, so they are best placed on windows facing south. But forest cacti do not like too bright sun; exposure to sunlight can cause burns on them. They are best placed on window sills whose windows face the North or East side. Under no circumstances should flower pots be placed in strong shade, as a lack of sunlight will lead to their deformation and even death. And if the plant is flowering, then it will never bloom in the shade. With the onset of warm weather, cacti can be taken out onto the balcony; they will grow very well in the fresh air. Now let's talk about when a cactus shoot should be planted in a pot.

Transfer time

Many beginning cactus growers are interested in the question of when is the best time and how to plant a cactus so that it quickly takes root and grows. The transplant can be performed at any time of the year; there are probably no special recommendations here. The only thing that needs to be taken into account when transplanting a shoot is that if it is done in winter time, then caring for the plant will be somewhat different from caring for a flower that was planted in the summer.

When replanting is carried out in winter, then there is no need to water the flower until spring. Of course, many will immediately think that if you don’t water, the plant will dry out very quickly, but this is not true, nothing will happen to it until spring comes. But if you immediately water it after transplanting, then your flower will most likely rot and die very quickly.

Winter is the best time for replanting, because at this time the buds do not form and the plant does not bloom. But in the spring the cactus begins to grow quickly, buds may even appear on it, in which case it will not tolerate transplantation very well.

Drainage

For succulents, drainage plays a huge role, especially if the flower is planted in a container with small holes or when you decide to plant 2-3 cacti in one pot. The drainage layer is a maximum of 1/5 of the volume of the dishes, a minimum of 1/2. Drainage can be made from different materials: broken brick, crushed stone, expanded clay, wine cork. If you use a wine cork as drainage, then it will need to be cut into small pieces, their size should be approximately 5 mm. During transplantation, the old drainage will need to be thrown away and then a new one will be filled in.

If you are interested in the question of how to plant a cactus and make good drainage for it, then add eggshells there, after breaking them.

So, we continue to talk about how to properly plant a cactus in a pot yourself. The rooting of the flower is carried out directly in the soil. You can prepare the soil for planting yourself or buy it ready-made. If you decide to purchase soil in a store, then carefully read what is written on the package; you need to choose cactus soil, it does not have a high degree of nutritional value. Although why spend money on something that you can cook yourself, there is nothing complicated here. Take dry leaves and grind them too. Sand and garden soil Mix well and add the previously chopped leaves and mix again. Many gardeners add charcoal or foam balls to lighten the soil. It is also important to provide good drainage in the pot, we will talk about this below.

Soil for planting cacti

Planting a shoot

Now it’s time to answer the question of how to plant a cactus in a pot at home. So, before you find out how to plant a flower that does not have root system you need to decide on the time of year. It is best if it is summer or spring. On the flower itself there are shoots that need to be separated. They do this very carefully, because if an unremoved piece of the shoot remains on the plant, then the cactus will rot and the baby will not take root in the new place.

You need to separate the babies with a sharp knife. Under no circumstances should the shoot be planted directly into the ground; it must be placed in a cool, dark place for several days. Let it lie there until the cut dries a little. The container in which the planting will be carried out should be small in size, 2-3 centimeters larger than the plant being planted. During watering, make sure that the water does not stagnate, because the roots will begin to rot. To prevent this from happening, several holes must be made at the bottom of the dish. When answering the question of how to grow a cactus from a shoot yourself, one cannot fail to mention several important tips:

1. It is best if the ground is sandy.
2. The cut shoot does not need to be covered with soil, just apply it to the soil.
3. When watering, make sure that the shoot is not moved from its place. This is very important when planting a baby cactus in a pot.

Cut off shoot

As soon as the shoot has roots, it needs to be planted. First we make drainage, for this we put expanded clay at the bottom of the pot. Now we take the prepared soil and pour it into the container. If you wish, you can prepare the substrate yourself. We already talked above about how it is made (mix dry leaves, sand and garden soil). It is very important to know how to transplant the cactus shoot into the container itself. To do this, we make a depression in the center, it should not be too large, lightly squeeze the shoot into the ground and sprinkle it with substrate. For the first five to seven days, the planted shoot does not need to be watered. For irrigation, it is best to use settled water. However, the flower should not be allowed to dry out; to do this, it must be lightly sprayed with water every day. Now you know how to properly plant a cactus from a shoot without roots.

Watering

It is very important for a novice gardener to know how to plant cactus children, because the health of the plant will depend on the correct transplantation. Another very important component good growth the prickly flowers on the windowsill are theirs proper watering. In order for the flowers to grow well, you need to ensure that the soil is not wet all the time, it should be slightly dry. Watering should be moderate; if you pour a lot of water, then the root system will rot, which will lead to the death of the plant. IN winter period years, the plant stops growing, they seem to go into hibernation, at this time they need to be watered once a month, this will be enough so that they do not die. It is very easy to determine when a flower needs watering; look at the ground; if it is dry and begins to crack, then it needs to be watered lightly. Now you know how to plant cacti and care for them.

To better understand how cacti reproduce, we have prepared a useful video for you:

Cacti are persistent and unpretentious plants, most of which are capable of reproducing by shoots. The shoots that form on the main stem eventually dry out from the mother plant, fall to the ground and take root—this is how cacti reproduce.

To propagate a cactus, just take a shoot and root it in a separate pot. It will take about 2-3 weeks for preparation and appearance of roots.

Quick navigation through the article

Preparation

In order to plant a cactus shoot, you need to consider that:

• The shoot must be large enough to survive for several weeks without additional nutrition - at first it will not have roots. If the shoot is too small, it may simply dry out and “fall asleep.”
• Most favorable time for planting cactus - spring and summer. At this time, rooting occurs quickly and without problems.
• You can wait until the shoot moves away from the mother plant on its own - this indicates that it is ready for independent life.
• It is necessary to separate the shoot from the main plant mechanically in the event that the baby has not moved away on its own by August - root it in the fall young plant it will be more difficult, and the shoot may die.
• You need to separate the daughter plant from the mother plant with a sharp, disinfected knife. If the cut is wide, you can moisten it with a weak solution of potassium permanganate (for disinfection).

Transfer

After the shoot has been separated from the main part of the cactus, you need to remember that:

• The shoot must be placed on a clean, dry sheet of paper in a dark place (for drying). The larger the cut area, the longer the healing period should last (from 1 day to 2 weeks) - this prevents the formation of putrefactive tissue.
• As soon as the cut site has healed (dry callus forms there), you can begin to root the plant. Seedlings that have fallen off on their own can be replanted immediately.
• It is customary to replant cacti in small pots so that the roots begin to develop and the plant itself continues to grow.
• Be sure to add drainage to the bottom of the pot. The soil should be loose, with sand or peat. It is best to purchase (or prepare yourself) a special mixture that is favorable for the growth of cacti.
• The shoot should be placed on a moist substrate, with the cut side down (towards the soil), without digging in.
• To prevent the soil from losing moisture, you can sprinkle small pebbles on top of it. Until the cactus takes root, it needs to be watered very carefully, making sure that the soil remains moist.
• In 1-2 weeks the cactus will take root. After this, you can proceed to the usual regime of caring for the plant.
• Some plants grow better if they wait for roots to emerge in dry sand before replanting them in cactus soil. It is necessary to focus on the specifics of caring for a certain variety of cactus.

Substrate for cacti

Each of us decides for himself in what substrate his cacti will grow. You can argue endlessly about what is better - ready-made soils or those made with your own hands from many components - and still not come to an agreement.
If the cacti feel good and look happy in the provided substrate, stop experimenting, leave everything as it is (after all, “they don’t seek good from good”).

And don’t forget that cacti have slightly different health indicators than most other plants: first of all, good development of spines and flowering. A fast growth stem (not only the main one, and babying is also the growth of the stem) to the detriment of everything else indicates exactly the opposite .

If your cacti grow poorly (or, conversely, too quickly), have a tortured appearance (or have become too fat, are about to burst), if their spines are underdeveloped, and they refuse to bloom at all (although you follow all the basic rules for caring for these plants ) – try replacing the substrate you are using with a completely different one. Perhaps this is precisely the point.

Once upon a time, for cacti, I dug soil in forests and fields, scraped plaster from walls, dragged sand from the river, and hit bricks with a hammer, since ready-made soils were not on sale at that time. When such soils appeared, it turned out to be a real salvation both for me and for my cacti. After all, a large industrial city and its environs cannot be a source of health for both our children and the prickly children of the desert. The less we come into contact with indigestible waste from urban life, the better. In a hungry winter, birds do not eat berries grown on soil that has absorbed all the industrial dirt. And I tried to grow cacti in such soil. Only the most unpretentious of them survived, the ones who “you can’t kill with a cannon.” In the local nature, I had nowhere to get environmentally friendly components of the substrate.

As soon as the opportunity arose to purchase ready-made soil “based on vermicompost made by Californian worms” called “Cactus,” I transferred all my plants to this substrate (at first, even without any individual additives). The results appeared within a few weeks. Only then did I understand - this is what real cacti should look like!

I do not at all encourage everyone to switch to purchased substrates. What is appropriate in one setting may be completely unacceptable in another. If you have the opportunity to get clean leaf and turf soil, peat, quartz sand and other necessary ingredients - of course, it is better to make the soil yourself, changing the proportions of the components taking into account individual requirements different plants. I just want to say that in the absence of such an opportunity, it is quite possible to achieve significant success with a substrate from a bag purchased at a flower shop. The main thing is that the cacti feel good. And when they are satisfied, they will say “thank you” by presenting luxurious flowers. Cacti do not know how to be ungrateful; they are always sincere. Therefore, ask about suitable soil for cacti not from cool professional cactus growers, but from your own cacti. Who, if not them, has the right to cast a decisive vote?

Individual requirements of cacti

As for individual additives for specific types of cacti, then I use eggshells crushed in a coffee grinder as lime.. Only cacti with thick white pubescence or specks need to add lime to the substrate. The main contenders for such a supplement are astrophytums, epithelanths, white mammillaria(those cacti whose living conditions in nature are the most extreme). When planting these plants, there should be a minimum of land itself, the rest is drainage, lower and upper. I use expanded clay, pre-washed with a jet, as drainage hot water in a colander. (And adherents of very serious disinfection boil expanded clay in a saucepan, then put it on newspaper and dry.) A pinch of eggshell is added to each pot with such a cactus.

These cacti do not need frequent replanting, because the liming of the soil that occurs over time only benefits them. The pot itself should be slightly larger than the roots. Even if the astrophytum has long outgrown its pot, but if it blooms and does not stop growing, then it is not worth replanting it. And if young astrophytums react normally even to the complete loss of roots (for example, the roots of a seedling being cut off during picking), then calmly growing new ones, then adult astrophytums often painfully endure even transshipment without cleansing the root system, falling into stagnation for a long time. Therefore, astrophytums can be fully replanted (with shaking and washing of the roots) only if the presence of root pests is suspected. And the older your astrophytum, the less you disturb its roots.

The root system of other white-haired cacti is not so sensitive to transplantation, but, as a rule, it is small, weak and does not accept excess soil, nutrients and water well. Therefore, it is better to minimize watering white cacti and completely eliminate fertilizing (at least in the first season after planting in fresh soil).

The other extreme is cacti, which require more fertile soil than desert cacti. For them, I add part (about a quarter) of the “Rose” soil to the same “Cactus” substrate. It is believed that Echinopsis such an additive is required. No! They love spacious dishes, since their roots grow quickly, and the stems also grow powerfully in the open space. But Echinopsis needs the most common, “cactus” soil; fertilizing with "Rosa" soil will cause them to burst. The same applies to their relatives: acanthocalycium, lobivia, pseudolobiviaand other spherical “hedgehogs”.

Increased soil fertility is really necessary for heat-loving, fast-growing, green forests. cereus(Hylocereus, for example). I also add "Rose" Eriocereus(not collection ones, but those that are grown purely on rootstocks), but only because I want to accelerate their growth, since almost all grafting practice is based on them.
For the rest of the cacti, I use soil without any additives; Only its quantity is different, but not its quality.

Containers for cacti

My favorite planting containers for cacti are regular plastic round pots. Brown, to match the expanded clay, which is used as top drainage. (I would prefer gravel to expanded clay - gray, smaller and not so regular in shape; but with gravel it’s “tight”, and expanded clay is quite affordable.)

I place small pots of cacti in long brown trays. Large pots are placed in separate round trays. Everything together looks very aesthetically pleasing and functional.
Some lovers don't care general appearance collections (they say, as long as the cacti themselves are beautiful, and let them grow in just about anything). I don't think this is the right approach. We want to wear beautiful clothes, drive in a beautiful car, live in beautiful house. So let's take care of a decent environment not only for ourselves, but also for our cacti. It is not necessary (and even undesirable) to focus on general aesthetics at the expense of cacti growing itself, but we must strive to improve and decorate the living conditions of our plants if we want them to give us flowers.

Many people consider square pots more convenient in terms of saving space, but why? What difference does it make whether it is a round pot with a diameter of 5 cm or a square one with the same side? In both cases, the pot occupies an area of ​​5x5 cm on the pallet. Therefore, use those pots in which it would be more pleasant for you to grow your cacti.

Replanting a new cactus

If you are going to replant a newly acquired cactus, naturally, this will have to be done at the time of year when it appeared in the collection.

A new cactus must be quarantined, that is, isolate from those already growing in the room. Give it a few days to adapt to the new conditions (without watering), then you can start replanting.

The plant is carefully removed from the pot (plastic pots can be slightly dented by slightly squeezing from different sides to release the roots), its root system is carefully examined. If the roots of the cactus look 100% healthy and there are no suspicions of root pests, I would not recommend shaking and washing the roots, or even disturbing the earthen ball. No matter what kind of soil this cactus grew in before it came to you, it got used to it. After all, the plant is already stressed: it suddenly found itself in conditions with different lighting, temperature, and watering regime. Leave him at least the usual substrate for now, in which the necessary beneficial microflora has already been formed.
But it is possible now to gradually begin to accustom a beginner to the soil that you usually use. To do this, take a larger pot than the one in which the cactus grew. You need to pour drainage at the bottom (I have the same expanded clay, only larger). Then place the cactus in the pot so that the root collar is just below the top edge. If the pot turned out to be the right size, then between the old lump of earth and the walls of the new pot there will be a little space left, where you need to add your soil, previously steamed and cooled. (This procedure is described in the article on sowing; if desired, you can sift the soil according to the same principle and pour the coarse fraction directly onto the lower drainage, and the fine fraction above).

When the cactus begins to develop new roots with the start of watering, they will climb into the fresh substrate and begin to explore it with pleasure, without haste. Beneficial microflora will come running there from the old soil and begin to actively multiply.

If after replanting everything turned out correctly and beautifully - the cactus sits in the center of the new pot, its root collar is not buried and is located just below the top level of the pot - you can fill in the upper drainage; the transplant is completed.

If, as a result of manipulations during the replanting process, the cactus has moved from the middle, then it must be carefully moved, pouring soil into the resulting voids. Or, holding the plant, try to move it to Right place, lightly tapping the pot on the table. In this case, the cactus may turn out to be lower than intended - then raise it to the desired level and gently tap the pot again. Then the earth will settle down and the plant will rise higher. Add more soil to make the surface as level as possible.

Only Never bury the cactus stem into the ground when planting! If the lower part of the cactus is unattractive, then leave more space in the pot for the upper drainage, in which you need to hide defects in appearance. The same applies to very elongated cacti, which, however, you do not want to cut and re-root.

And to hide the “unfortunate legs” of the cactus, and to fix those prone to falling to the side tall plants Always use top drainage. Under any circumstances, only cactus roots should be in the soil. If possible, even the upper part of the roots can be raised above the ground - this will save you from many troubles.

Combining cactus transplantation and treatment

We figured out how to plant a healthy cactus. But what should you do if, after removing the plant from the pot, you find root rot or pests?

First of all, you will have to completely clear the root system of the cactus from the soil and trim off the diseased roots with ordinary scissors.

I personally resort to chemicals only in the most extreme cases. To begin with, it is best to take a large saucepan, fill it to the top with water and heat the water to 50-60 degrees. The larger the container, the longer the water will cool in it. The entire roots of the diseased cactus must be placed in this water, suspended in some way over the pan. To do this, you can build a lid for the pan from thick cardboard with holes of the required size - the roots should go through these holes, but the cactus stem should not fall through. Thus, it is advisable to keep the patient for about an hour.
Many hobbyists replace root baths with a “root shower” for cacti - turn on hot water and hold the roots under running water. Hot root baths usually not only help the cactus get rid of pests, but also help activate growth processes. Therefore, in this way it is possible to treat those cacti that, for no apparent reason, lag behind or stop growing. Only, of course, this procedure must be carried out during the growing season. During wintering, all treatment of cacti should be carried out dry (strictly - cut and dry!).

Having finished water procedures, it is advisable to irradiate the cactus with an ultraviolet lamp or simply place it in the sun. It can be planted in the ground after drying for at least a week; After another week, the cactus can be watered.

The size of the pot for planting a cactus (as well as the amount of substrate) depends on the size of its root system. Most cacti do not like excess soil; the main thing is that their roots fit in the new container.

It is not necessary to place the roots in a perfectly straightened form - as long as the tips of the roots are directed downwards (or to the sides, but not up).

When planting, you need to give the direction to the roots of cacti, since they always stretch towards the center of the earth (and aerial roots turn away from the sun).

If you reverse the direction of the cactus root tips, those roots will stop growing and die.

Keep the cactus planted in a pot after treating the roots in isolation (to avoid infecting other cacti), and observe the plant for a while. If after a couple of weeks he shows signs active growth
If the cactus continues to quietly fade away, then you will have to poison the animals that are poisoning its life. Information on pest control can be found in most books on cactus culture. Fortunately, I have never had to deal with pests yet.

Prevention chemicals I don't spend it because it's good for healthy plants from such events is doubtful, but the harm is obvious. The drug can be as “harmless” as you like, but it becomes another foreign substance (of which there are already enough in our polluted air) entering the body of the poor plant. To live and thrive in climatic conditions so unnatural for cacti, the plant needs to somehow remove foreign substances from itself. Let's not add unnecessary worries to our pets!

Planned replanting of cacti

Now let's move on to the planned transplants of cacti, which were growing well, and they clearly felt cramped in the pot.

With a large collection of cacti, replanting usually becomes a massive undertaking. That is, all applicants for housing expansion are gathered, an appropriate amount of soil and dishes are prepared, to which labels with names are attached.
At what time of year is it more convenient for us and for cacti to carry out a planned transplant? Definitely in winter. This allows you, during the growing season of cacti, not to be distracted from more important agrotechnical activities that cannot be transferred to wintering (regular watering, grafting, picking seedlings, cross-pollination of flowers). Cacti should grow and bloom from spring to autumn, and not waste time and energy fighting post-transplant stress.
Therefore, we will postpone replanting cacti for the winter (if possible). But after we put our collection to bed, it’s better not to delay the implementation of our plans. Indeed, in January, many cacti are already diligently engaged in laying and developing buds, and during the budding period it is better not to disturb the plants. We will have to start transplanting in December. If we prepare for this in advance and wisely, we will cope!
When arranging cacti in winter, we place separately all those we are going to transplant, so that later we do not dig up all the common “beds” in search of the necessary cacti.

From early autumn, the purchase of the required number (and even a reserve) of pots, preparation of drainage and components for the substrate are carried out (those who use ready-made soil can postpone its purchase until winter).

The only difference between winter replanting and regular planting of a healthy cactus is that in winter the soil needs to be thoroughly dried after steaming (so that the cactus does not wake up at the wrong moment, sensing moisture in its roots). We do everything else in exactly the same way, and when we’re done, we immediately put the freshly transplanted cactus in its previous “winter” place.

Procedure for transplantation

If there is a massive transplant, the order of work is as follows: the cacti are removed from the old container and placed - each next to its own pot (so as not to be confused). It is necessary to pull out cacti, because the root system is different types(and even specimens of the same species) are developed unequally. After all, we will select a new pot for each cactus in accordance with the size of the root, not the stem. (If you practice bottom watering (from a tray), then the size of the root system of most cacti can be determined without removing the plants from the pots. Often their roots crawl into the drainage holes and strive to intertwine with neighbors on a common tray.)

So, we laid out the plants ready for planting next to the labeled old pots, and selected a new pot for each cactus based on the size of the root system.

Personally, I tape a new printed label to the pot each time. Re-sticking used labels can lead to constant peeling and eventually falling off. Therefore, when replanting cacti, I always make new labels by planting them on fresh tape. Some people use reusable plastic signs stuck into the ground.

Next, pour bottom drainage into all labeled pots and, carefully checking the new and old labels, place the cacti in their places. Then, according to the usual method when planting cacti, first add soil to all the peas, then top drainage.

After transplanting is complete, we immediately return the dormant plants to their winter “beds.”

Root development and the advisability of replanting cacti

We have dealt with transplanting adult cacti from a smaller pot to a larger one; you already know about picking seedlings from bowl to bowl from the article on sowing.

Cactus seedlings ready to leave " kindergarten” and get separate housing, they are transplanted from a bowl into pots, in general, in the same way as adult cacti are transplanted. Only the smallest pots need to be taken to begin with.

Remember - cacti do not tolerate excesses well. You can even plant several cacti of the same type in one pot if they have small roots: cramped conditions are better than too much space. When young cacti begin to interfere with each other, replant them, regardless of the time of year. Young people need frequent transfers; so the first pot is still temporary.

There are cacti with a tiny stem and a huge turnip-like root, which by the end of the growing season pushes all the substrate and drainage out of the pot, lifting and tilting the small cactus stem crowning this “turnip”. We can see this phenomenon in everyone. sulcorebutium and miniature spherical Echinocereus.
But it also happens the other way around - for example, mammillaria Mammillaria plumosa, the stem of which grows very well over the season. But when we try to replant, we have difficulty finding its roots - they are so small, although the cactus is completely healthy and growing well.

(By the way, Mammillaria plumosa, as well as Mammillaria solisioides, Mammillaria lasiacantha, Mammillaria carmenae, Mammillaria hernandezii, Mammillaria schiedeana and some other representatives of this most beautiful genus delight us with flowers in the dark autumn-winter period, so their transplantation should be postponed at least until the end of flowering).

I often hear the question: are cactus roots sticking out from the bottom of the pot bad? My answer is simply wonderful!
Your cactus demonstrates that its roots are remarkably developed. By looking closely at them, you can make sure that they are healthy and free of pests; or you can notice warning signs in time and take action. Why be afraid of this? . And it’s not at all necessary to immediately rush to replant the plant into a larger container as soon as you notice the roots appearing in the drainage hole The cactus has grown good strong roots, now it can devote all its strength to the growth of other organs: stem, spines, flowers or fruits. A immediate transplant

will again force him to deal exclusively with the roots, filling with them the free space and fresh soil. Hence the rule: don’t rush to replant - think about whether the cactus needs it now?

Perhaps he has other plans, and if you intervene with a transplant, the cactus will never realize these plans. All about cacti

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interesting and perhaps avoid many tragic mistakes common for beginners.

Cacti are very unusual plants, varied inNotappearance and appearance - from round crumbs with huge flowers andand at the top, up to multi-meter colossuses blooming sparingly and inconspicuously. But it binds themeveryone, well, except for the dissonant name SUCCULENTS - principles of growing A concepts that are fundamentally different from the generally accepted rules for keeping indoor plants asthenia.

So, if you decide to get cacti, and before that you grew violets, yuccas, etc. on your windowsill. - FORGET ALL YOUR KNOWLEDGE AND DO EVERYTHING ACCURATELY “REVERSE” This is exactly the most difficult thing for beginning cactus growers.

Based on the proverb reinterpreted in a cactus way; “What is good for the dracaena is death for the cactus!”

Well, then, let's get started....

Transplanting cacti

Let's start with the most delicate moment - transplantation.
You will need:, soil, expanded clay for lower drainage, fine gravel for upper drainage, patience, :-) tweezers and maybe even old leather ones ne gloves so that at the end you can enjoy the fruits of your labor, and not quietly cursing to pull out the numerous thorns with which your favorite cactus will reward you. Although in the absence similar means“protection”, you can successfully use a towel folded in several layers or something similar. Well, this mainly applies to large cacti.

Transplanting cacti and correct selection soil, the process is very responsible, the further development, growth and flowering of cacti depends on it.

A few days before the planned transplant, the cactus must be dried or, more simply put, stopped watering and spraying if this happens in the summer. In winter, if the cacti sleep according to all the rules, then there is simply nothing to dry.Tap the walls of the pot on all sides if it is soft plastic then squeeze it by the walls several times in a circle so that the earthen lump with roots peels off. The cactus is carefully picked up by the root collar with tweezers and pulled out of the pot. Do not squeeze too hard to avoid damaging the plant. If the cactus is healthy, you don’t have to remove the old soil, but just slightly knead the earthen ball for better air flow to the roots.

This rule does not apply to imported cacti!!! Pulled out of potted cactus purchased at a flower shop, . Otherwise, the probability of death is very high. Poor little cacti, accustomed only to nutrient solutions, are not able to obtain the substances necessary for growth from ordinary soil. This same processthe fool “shakes” them and, in essence, a new rooting occurs.Don’t be lazy after the purchase "store" cactus , transplant it immediately ! !

After removing the cactus from the pot, inspect its root system for possible rot and pests, such as mealybug which is visible to the naked eye. All affected or damaged parts of the roots must be removed. Pay attention to the structure of the root system of the transplanted cactus. If in front of you is the owner of a taproot or turnip root (photo
left), then this cactus needs deep (high). I would like to draw your attention to the fact that the concept of “deep” in this case conditionally. The fact is that the root system of such a cactus cannot be distributed in a pot and if pot If it is too small, the root will simply rest against the bottom of the pot, which can cause it to rot. That is, the cactus will essentially “stand” on the root, and this is not acceptable. Cacti have a fibrous root systemmine (photo on the right) can be transplanted into any pot of suitable diameter, distributing cotake care of the cactus. Detailed diagram See the landings below.

The cactus must be replanted in a fairly dry place. sterile soil Take a pot for transplanting that is 1 - 2 cm larger in diameter than the previous one. Place a layer of expanded clay (about 1 cm) on the bottom to improve the outflow of excess water when watering. But this is provided that the root system of the cactus is well developed and has occupied the entire area of ​​the previous pot. Sometimes during the replanting process it turns out that the roots of the cactus are poorly developed or the shallow root system is a feature of the species. In this case, we leave the pot the same and limit ourselves to changing the soil, and sometimes we even change the pot to a smaller one in accordance with the size of the cactus roots. For a correctly selected pot for a cactus should be no more than 1 - 2 cm larger than the root system. This rule applies to almost all types of cacti, while, for example, echinopsis or cereus can be planted in a larger pot, without damage to the cactus.
One more thing. The cactus tends to settle in the pot due to compaction of the soil, and the drainage layer at the bottom may be too large if you originally planted a very small cactus. In this case, it is enough to remove part of the expanded clay and add soil to the bottom of the pot, planting the cactus almost flush with the edges of the pot. In the photo below, Lobivia rebutioides was transplanted in this way.

This little trick is completely worth it, especially if you have problems with pots and don’t have the next largest pot. I often practice such transplants with small species of young cacti. The cactus receives additional volume for root growth without taking up extra space on the windowsill. Keen cactus collectors, whose window sills are cracking and every centimeter is accounted for, will understand me. :-)

To conclude the topic of replanting cacti, I would like to add a few lines about the soil. I often come across radical recommendations, such as “throw away the old soil after replanting.” I'll report the sedition. I throw in the trash the soil after transplantation, only from cacti that have not been transplanted for a very long time, when it has already acquired a sandy-grayish tint. That is, the cactus “ate” everything that was possible. In other cases, I just steam the soil in the microwave to kill it possible pests and pathogenic microorganisms (together with expanded clay, which I then select from the soil and use again as drainage), I add 30 - 50% fresh soil ,and planting cacti. And sometimes I plant them completely in old soil, depending on the species. Cacti grow and bloom, they don’t complain about life. The fact is that the correct air exchange of the soil is more important to the cactus than additional humus, and since after replanting the soil is always loose and not compacted, the cacti are quite happy with this. I am not writing unfoundedly. As an experiment, I planted a bowl with two-year-olds, network of Echinopsis Mirabilis , who were literally sitting on each other’s heads. I left one part in the same bowl, with the same soil, I just steamed it and planted cacti so that they would have room to grow. Those who didn’t fit in were planted in another pot with fresh soil. All summer, I vigilantly and with passion examined both plantings in order to detect differences in growth. But, no matter what, the baby cacti developed and bloomed in exactly the same way, regardless of whether the soil was old or new...So, draw your own conclusions, but take into account the appearance of the cactus.

What to do with cactus babies?

One of the most frequently asked questions, which occurs during transplantation
for beginner cactus lovers: "What to do with cactus babies?" My short answer is: don’t do anything. Babies on cacti, they are also shoots, layering, segments, part of the mother cactus. This is a completely natural growth of the cactus, which occurs precisely due to the appearance of the notorious children. Constantly tearing babies off a cactus is like breaking out new branches/shoots on trees or bushes.
Wherein, vegetative propagation No one has canceled the cactus, and taking a cutting from a friend, from a cactus you like, as you understand, is not forbidden. But you shouldn’t do this on purpose, in the hope of better growth or flowering of the cactus, especially since every baby on the cactus is a potential carrier of a flower in the future. And this will not add beauty to the cactus, since after removing the babies, ugly scars remain on the cactus.

Pots for cacti and replanting nuances

Cactus pots, in principle, can be anything, I use plastic, round “technical” ones, although they are not very ergonomic
miraculous. Square pots are definitely more convenientit's in terms ofsave space, although they cost an order of magnitude more.As an alternative to replanting cacti, you can use ordinary seedling pots.(photo from left). Despite their fragility (on average, the service life is 2 - 3 years), these pots have many advantages. Cheap price, variety of sizes, compactness during installation, and most importantly, it is not a problem to buy them, unlike special “cactus” pots. You can choose a pot that is required not only in diameter, but also in depth, which is extremely important when planting cacti with a long tap root,such as astrophyte
minds, turbinicarpus, some types of gymnocalycium, etc. Any garden center has this stuff in bulk. Suitable for both single landings cacti, and for planting several small cacti (for example, seedlings) with similar cultural requirements (same soil composition, lighting and watering requirements).But when planting several cacti in one pot, keep in mind that this requires more
e frequent transplants. As the cacti grow, they will occupy the entire pot, but this is not scary, but the fact that they will begin to crowd each other and come into contact with each other. If one plant becomes ill, the infection will easily spread to the rest of the cacti in that pot. About dented and deformed spines and violationhabit I'm not even talking anymore.

From my point of view, another constant advantage of the above-mentioned pots is their gutta-percha and.... fragility. Yes, yes, I didn’t make a reservation, it’s fragility. Such pots are easily deformed under the pressure of the powerful root system of the cactus, and in some cases, they simply burst, giving the roots some freedom. A cactus that the caring but very busy hands of the owner did not reach for the purpose of replanting will find itself in such a pot in a more advantageous position than its fellow, in a pot made of hard, unbendable and impenetrable plastic. And even though the pot is ugly, torn and taped, the cacti feel quite good in it, they continue to grow and bloom all season, waiting for them to finally be planted :-).
In the photo below, you can clearly see what cacti can turn pots into if they are not replanted in a timely manner. In a word, they tore them up, like that Tuzik tore a heating pad... and they did it in just a couple of months, I took them to the dacha in normal pots, but I haven’t replanted them for three years.

There is another type of pot, they are quite highly specialized. They are not very cheap, they are often sold in sets of 30 pieces, along with a pallet. But for miniature cacti, like Turbinicarpus or Mediolobivia, there is simply no alternative. The fact is that they themselves
The pots are square, with sides 5 by 5 cm, but their depth is 7.2 cm. So it turns out that the little turbinicarpus, which is an adult, has a size of no more than 3 - 4 cm, but at the same time, even a young one has a root cactus, long, rod 5 - 7 cm, nothing more to plant. If it is not possible to get such pots, the only way out is to plant several similar cactus miniatures in one standard-sized pot, such as in the photo above.

The main requirement for pots for cacti is the presence of
a large number of drainage holes. Novice cactus growers do not pay attention to this point special attention. As a result, they then write “Look at the photo, my baby cactus is not growing well, and it doesn’t look very good. What about him??" I look..... and I see an amazingly beautiful ceramic pot (with one hole) in the entire photo and in it sits a little cactus, which is in this,
Sorry, it's in the bucket and not visible at all. Accordingly, there is no expanded clay drainage at the bottom. If you remove the unfortunate man from the pot’s captivity, then the first thing that catches your eye is almost complete absence normal healthy roots. Figure 1 shows howit is forbidden plantcactus.

So, avoid planting in large pots. Small cactus planted with lovein a hefty pot, it will develop poorly and has every chance of dying from excessive waterlogging and acidification of the soil. If you don’t have a suitable pot at hand, expanded clay will help solve this problem. Simply increase its layer to the required level, thus reducing the volume of soil in the pot.Do not bury the cactus when planting! In the ground, ideally there should be
only roots and base root neck of a cactus. The cactus doesn't hold up and falls?? It doesn’t matter, the soil is covered with fine gravel on top with a layer of 0.5 - 2 cm, this is the so-called top drainage(Fig. 2), which will hold the cactus in an upright position. With such planting, rotting of the root collar is almost impossible, and it is this that is most vulnerable in cacti.

If the cactus is large, and even tall, then it is better to use large pebbles (any size), the main thing is that they are able to hold the cactus
in a vertical position. They can be used to support the cactus from the side of the rubble and surround it in a circle for stability. Another important point. Very often, in the photos of cacti that are posted in my group on VK, I see that the soil in the pot is chaotically littered with expanded clay. Expanded clay CANNOT BE USED FOR TOP DRAINAGE! This is a very moisture-intensive material that instantly absorbs water after watering, dries for a long time, and prevents the soil itself from drying out. As a result, instead of protecting the root collar from moisture and possible rot, such “drainage”, like a wet sponge, itself serves as a source of this very moisture. Gravel, unlike expanded clay, and any stone, does not absorb water and literally
15 - 20 minutes after watering it dries completely. Benefit from top drainage, exists only if it separates the cactus from the ground, but if you simply throw pebbles into a pot, away from the cactus, then such top drainage will not be of any use, such as decoration for a decorative purpose and nothing more :)

But that's not all. If you have a capricious and impressionable astrophytum asterias or its other varieties, such as superkabuto of all types and stripes, then planting above ground level will be even higher. In this case, the soil should not come into contact with the body of the cactus at all! When planting, neither the root collar, which by the way is almost absent in Astrophytum asteris, nor even the upper part of the root is covered with earth. For more information about transplanting Astrophytum Asterias, see

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Caring for a transplanted cactus.

The most important rule, failure to comply with which has cost the lives of many cacti.

DO NOT WATER THE CACTUS AFTER TRANSPLANTING.

This is what I would say is the basic rule that beginning cactus growers neglect. Alas, with all the ensuing consequences.

The first watering (if it is not winter) should be done after three days, this is necessary so that the roots damaged during transplantation do not rot.I am the first watering cacti I do hot water, but moderately, not until the water flows out of the drainage, and only after another five days I spill it more thoroughly. The cactus needs time to “smell” the water and put out absorbent roots.

This is during a normal transplant, when the cactus is healthy. If during transplantation many roots were removed or signs of fungal infections were found on them, then the first watering should be postponed for at least 7 - 10 days. During this time, the thorn can be touched a couple of times spray hot water. Cacti transplanted in winter are not watered at all, but are kept warm for 3 - 5 days, then sent back to wintering When kept on an ordinary, warm windowsill, even in winter the cactus will have to be watered a little so that it does not become too depleted, but not earlier than 2 - 3 weeks after transplantation. When replanting in spring and summer, do not place the cactus immediately in the sun and heat, for example on a sunny loggia, where the temperature can rise to 40 degrees. This will cause severe burns and slow survival. Young, small cacti may simply die in such conditions. So it’s better to keep it in the shade until the first watering and the cactus begins to grow. It is not difficult to determine that the cactus has taken root; it will become noticeably thicker, sagging and folds will disappear, the top of the head will acquire a brighter color.

Transplantation or transshipment can be done at any time of the year; at least not a single death has been registered during my practice during autumn and winter transplants.Most species are completely calm about transplantation as such. Replanted andbloomingcacti , and cacti with buds, and this did not in any way disturb their biological rhythm (mammillaria, rebutia, astrophytums, fryleys, gymnocalyciums, etc.). buds blossomed, the flowers did not wilt.Moreover, for example, rebutias with buds sent to buyers by mail and spent two weeks or more in dark boxes upon arrival delighted their new owners with their magnificent flowering. But there are types that are more demanding. For example, astrophytums and Brazilian cacti may fall into a state of some “thoughtfulness” after transplantation,Andresume growth only after a certain period of time.Therefore, it is best to replant them in winter, when they are in a state of natural “hibernation”.

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Replanting a cactus bought in a store.

Having pulled out a cactus purchased from a flower shop from a pot, do not just throw it into a larger pot along with the lump and parasites living in it, but Be sure to remove all soil. There are two ways to do this. Clean the cactus roots mechanically using tweezers and
a thin, but not sharp stick, slowly picking out the old soil and straightening the roots. Or wash under running hot water, with your hands or with a soft brush, the second is more suitable for turnip and tap roots. As for the second method, it is certainly simpler and faster, but it is fraught with a lot of pitfalls and is more dangerous for the life of the cactus. So, in order. You can wash the roots of a cactus only if you are sure that any rot can be treated with dryness. The next point is to wash the roots completely, without leaving soil on them. Leaving wet soil on the roots will delay the drying process, which again can cause rotting of the roots, even healthy ones (photo on the right, improperly washed cactus roots). In addition, in the resulting mess of roots and peat, there’s really nothing
It is not possible to see either parasites or the condition of the roots. And probably the last thing, if at home high humidity, it is better to do without washing and simply mechanically clean the roots, so that prolonged drying does not lead to fungal damage to the roots. After washing, you need to dry the cactus for 1 - 2 days, in a dry, warm, ventilated place. Place it not on film/oilcloth, on which it will float in a puddle of water that has flowed from it, but on paper, which will absorb excess moisture. The dried cactus is planted in dry soil and the first watering is carried out no earlier than a week later. See above for more details on the selection of pots and other nuances of replanting.

Cacti are succulent plants that can accumulate moisture. They can be forest or desert type. The first are distinguished by the presence of stems similar to leaves, while the second, more common, have a fleshy round, elongated or whip-like stem - a body or trunk, which is covered with spines. The prickly frame is aimed at protecting the plant, and the stems carry out photosynthesis.

Since ancient times, thorny plants have been given a special place; they are radically different from ornamental plants according to external data and care. Thanks to their unpretentiousness, cacti confidently occupy a leading position in indoor floriculture. The first species appeared in European countries thanks to Columbus and the variety of flower collections in the royal greenhouses.

The body of cacti in natural environment can reach tens of meters. The tallest is a northern Mexican specimen called Pringle's Pachycereus. Its maximum height was almost 20 meters. And the smallest is called Blossfeldia, whose diameter is about 10 mm.

The difference between cacti and other succulents lies in the modified axillary growth buds.

I call the apical bud the axilla, and the lateral buds the areoles. Cacti can stop growth from the axilla at any time and direct all their forces to the development of shoots from the areoles. This is how the body of the cactus becomes overgrown with mammillaria - babies.

Another difference is the absence of inflorescences. Flowers in cacti are formed one at a time, do not have peduncles and perform male and female functions. The lower part of the flower is a continuation of the stem and has an areola and spines. The sizes and colors of flowers can be varied and unexpected.

Today, more than 5,000 species of cacti are known, and half of them are suitable for cultivation at home. For the most part, these are absolutely unpretentious plants, but there are specimens that require special attention.

Some varieties of prickly representatives can often be seen in homes and offices, but not all gardeners know the correct name of the plants:

• Aporocacti. A common representative of this species is Flagelliformis. It is a multi-bodied specimen with long ribbed flowing stems, which are densely covered with short red bristles. It blooms at the end of winter with large red flowers with a crimson tint, which densely cover all the stems. Aporocacti do not require special care and feel comfortable in apartments and offices.
• Astrophytum capricornus. At a young age it is like a ribbed ball, but as it grows it stretches upward. Can grow up to 30 cm. summer time the body of an adult cactus is covered with yellow flowers that look like small daisies. Astrophytum spines can be straight or curved.
• Mammillaria. The cylindrical body is covered with long spines, between which a fluffy white web is woven. On the trunk of an adult plant is formed a large number of little children. These cacti are able to bloom frequently, even at a young age. Small flowers form around the apical growing point. Sometimes after flowering interesting fruits remain, which serve as an additional decoration.
• Epiphyllum. The most common representative of this species is oxypetalum. It is a plant consisting of long thin skeletal branches that end in wide leaf-like shoots. The total length of the stems can reach three meters in length. Epiphyllums bloom with large tubular fragrant flowers.
• Cereus. The plant grows up to 60 cm and blooms very rarely. Its varieties have different character traits: can be covered with spines or be completely smooth, some bloom at night, others only during the day, but always with large white flowers. To get a cactus to bloom, you need to provide it with a cool winter hut.
• Melocacti. They are spherical and slightly elongated shapes bodies with pronounced ribbing, covered with curved spine-like spines. Distinctive feature cacti is a change in body structure upon reaching flowering age. At this moment, a flat body covered with a bristle of small spines begins to grow from the top of the trunk. This is a kind of peduncle on which flowers are formed. They call it cephalium.
• Rebutions. It has a rounded trunk, which is densely covered with thorns. During flowering, large flowers form on the cactus various colors. To increase the duration of flowering, you need to place the plants in a ventilated area after wintering. This is a rare representative of capricious cacti; it does not tolerate prolonged drought and needs regular watering, and in winter it needs additional lighting.
• Frailei. It has a small, inconspicuous round body, but when flowering it forms giant flowers. yellow color, which almost completely hide the thorny trunk. For regular flowering in winter, the cactus should be kept at a temperature no higher than 12 degrees and minimal watering should be provided.
• Chamecerius Silvestri. It has a rapid growth rate and blooms with red flowers when the plant reaches a height of 8-10 cm.

It is best to carry out activities for planting and replanting cacti in the spring. When replanting a purchased plant, carefully remove it from the planting container and be sure to soak the roots in a manganese solution and then dry it.

Large representatives of cacti should be replanted every two years, and smaller ones every three years. When replanting, adult plants should completely change the soil and place them in a larger container.

Before planting a cactus, you should prepare the substrate and planting containers: these can be various pots or an aquarium.

Preparatory work:

1. Selection of landing containers. Clay, plastic or glass containers are suitable for planting cacti. A composition of different types of plants planted in colored sand in an aquarium looks decorative. The size of the planting container is selected in accordance with the size and shape of the plant’s root system - the diameter should be slightly larger than the straightened roots. If the roots are long, then the container should be deep and narrow, and if branched, then wide and shallow. For aporocacti, a deeper container is selected, and for mammillaria, a wider container is selected, because they form a large number of children. For aquarium compositions you will need a wide but shallow terrarium or aquarium. You can take any shape of containers, focusing on your tastes and interior features. For the plants themselves, the shape of the pot does not matter.
2. Preparation earth mixture. The soil mixture for different types of cacti is prepared from different components. But there is a universal soil mixture suitable for all cacti. It is prepared from pebbles, coarse sand with a fraction, small pebbles (85-90%) and a small amount of earth (10-15%). It is better to take forest land. It needs to be cleaned of roots and debris and well ignited in microwave oven. Wash the pebbles and boil. Such actions will avoid diseases and the proliferation of pests. Also, many cacti grow successfully in a soil mixture of equal parts of leaf soil and sand. For cacti of different ages, additives are needed in the finished substrate: for young specimens, lime, and for adults, peat.

Planting cacti: basic rules

How to plant a cactus correctly:

• pour a drainage layer and soil mixture into the pot up to the lower edge of the side
• make a depression in the center of the container
• install the cactus in the hole, carefully straightening the roots with a thin object
• the root collar should be level with the ground
• cover the roots with soil
• distribute the soil evenly by tapping the pot on a hard surface
• a layer of pebbles is poured on top to protect the root collar and imitate natural conditions

After the procedure, you should make a mark on one side of the pot (for example, write the name of the cactus) and place the plant against the window only with the opposite side, because cacti react negatively to rearrangements.

Planting plants in an aquarium follows the same pattern. But the top layer of soil can be covered decorative stone or colorful sand. This will diversify the composition and help fill the space between plants.

Cactus seeds can be purchased at flower shops. Sowing should be done in the second half of spring.

Landing rules:

• Seed preparation. Seed material is immersed for a day in warm water. Treat with manganese solution and dry.
• Fill the pot with drainage and soil mixture and place the seeds on it.
• The containers are placed on a deep tray with water so that moisture penetrates through the drainage hole. Crops cannot be watered from above.
• Cover the pots with glass and keep them at a temperature of 26-30 degrees. Once a day, the glass is removed for ventilation.

The appearance of seedlings depends on the cactus variety and can take from three days to several months. When the sprouts grow to 0.5-1 cm, they can be planted in separate pots. Young plants should be watered twice a week.

After planting, the cacti are placed in a shaded place and are not disturbed for several days, giving them the opportunity to adapt. After 4-5 days, you can carry out the first watering with a small amount of water, and after another day, water well.

If planting or replanting was carried out in autumn-winter, then watering should not be carried out until spring.

So that cacti have correct forms, they need to be provided with sufficient light. In the summer you need to take the plants out into the fresh air, and in the winter they need to shade the rooms a little. Caring for a cactus is not difficult, the main thing is to follow a number of rules:

• Irrigation. Rain or melt water should be used for irrigation. room temperature. In winter, watering is practically stopped and resumed in the spring. The first abundant watering is carried out when the plant begins to actively grow.
• Feeding. Cacti are fertilized with humic liquid solutions twice a season: before budding and during the flowering period.
• Lighting and temperature regime. Cacti should be in a well-lit area most of the day. If there is not enough light, then care should be taken artificial lighting. You should also protect young specimens from active sun.

Diseases and pests can attack cacti if care instructions are not followed. The most common pests are:

• Coccids can disfigure and kill the plant. Cacti become covered with ulcers and wounds. Insects secrete a sugary substance, which provokes the development of sooty fungus.
• Tropical scale insects. Cereus, prickly pear and mammillaria are often affected.
• Cactus scale insects. They feed on the sap of the plant, which leads to its drying out. Cactus stems become covered yellow spots with a white coating.
• Cactus felts. They only attack cacti.
• Greenhouse thrips.
• Mites: red flat mites, flat mites, spider mites.

1. cactus late blight
2. fusarium
3. gray soft rot
4. helminthospora wet rot
5. pyrenophorosis
6. rhizoctonia and other diseases of indoor plants

Fungicidal preparations are used for treatment, and the plants are isolated. Damaged parts must be carefully removed, and the sections must be disinfected. You should also reduce watering and avoid fertilizing.

Cacti are ideal for home cultivation - they live long, bloom beautifully and do not require special care. They do not need to be watered, pruned or sprayed regularly. And with their gorgeous blooms they can easily brighten up the interior of a home or office. To create decor from cacti, glass mini-aquariums, glasses, terrariums and other similar containers are used.

More information can be found in the video: