There are only 9 species in the kobei genus, growing in tropical America. These are perennial subshrubs, reaching a height of 6 meters with paired leaves and very decorative bell-shaped flowers.

Kobeya is perfect for purposes vertical gardening, at the same time, it is unpretentious, grows quickly regardless of neighboring plants and is capable of covering a large area in the shortest possible time, which together makes it a real boon for the designer.

Varieties and types

(aka creeping or kobeya scandance ) in its homeland - Mexico - is a perennial, growing up to 4 meters in length, while in our country it is grown as an annual. The stems of this species are covered with feathery foliage with branched tendrils at the end, thanks to which the plant clings to support.

IN natural environment bells up to 8 cm in diameter are purple in color, their elongated stamens and pistils are easily visible from the outside. Flowering begins in July and ends with the onset of frost.

It is this type of kobei that is cultivated, as a result of which, among the numerous varieties, specimens with white flowers have appeared.

• White kobeya variety ,

• Kobeya Lady Hamilton variety .

Kobea violet (can be specified as “ lilac ”, if its flowers have a color close to this shade or mixed violet-lilac) is represented, for example, by the variety kobeya calando .

In the climate of the Russian Federation, far from that in the tropics, it is most often grown as an annual vine. However, preserving a perennial trait is possible, although it requires special care and mandatory removal with roots into containers for the winter.

Kobeya planting and care in open ground

In order for kobeya to look like a full-fledged beautiful vine in the garden, planting must be done in the first days of March (maximum in the middle). The plant's seeds are large enough to be planted one at a time and not in a bunch.

The germination of kobei seeds is directly proportional to their age, and therefore it is not recommended to take seeds from last year. Instead, it is better to choose planting material from the latest harvest.

Kobeya watering

It is necessary to water the kobeya regularly, especially in hot weather. summer time. Here, however, it is important not to overdo it, since excessive amounts of moisture can provoke the occurrence of root rot, in particular if the plant is grown in a semi-shaded area.

Kobeya loves fertile, fertilized soils, where it grows especially quickly and massively. A warm, wind-protected area near a wall, fence or some other support on loose, well-fertilized, drained soil is the best option.

In the area of ​​tree trunk circles, the soil must be kept slightly moist, for which mulching with sawdust or peat is used. Mandatory soil care measures, in addition to moistening and fertilizing, are loosening and removing weeds.

Feeding Kobei

Feeding for kobei in the initial stages of growth should be applied every week. They must contain large volumes of nitrogen. With the beginning of the formation of buds, the time comes for fertilizing based on phosphorus and potassium.

When the seedlings acquire their first leaves, it is recommended to fertilize them with humate and then alternate mineral fertilizers(for example, kemiru) with organic (mullein infusion) until flowering begins.

Kobea transplant

If you plant the kobea in individual containers before planting it in open ground, you can help it gain strength even before it reaches the ground. permanent place. Foil cups, rolled up without a bottom, are well suited for this, placed in a large container and filled more than half with nutritious substrate.

Place one seed in each cup and cover it with 1-1.5 cm of soil. After 10 days, sprouts should appear and require regular watering. Then, the already taller kobe is transplanted into larger cups, and at this stage the benefits of their design become apparent.

Because the foil easily unfolds without damaging the root system of the plant, which is subsequently transplanted, together with the earthen ball, into the next container.

Another transplant before planting in the ground will be required when, due to the intensive growth of the plant, the roots begin to occupy even more space.

Kobeya wintering

As noted earlier, growing perennial kobeya is, in principle, possible in our country. The difficulty is that the plant does not tolerate transplantation well, which often does not allow it to survive the winter in more favorable conditions.

But a kobei that has managed to endure winter hardships will be characterized by an accelerated onset of flowering and increased intensity. So, first you need to save the plant in winter - in October it needs to be completely cut off and carefully dug up, avoiding the possibility of damaging the fragile root system.

Afterwards, the kobeya is transferred to a container placed in a dark, cool (about 10 ° C) room (a cellar is ideal). As long as the winter period lasts, the plant does not need care, with the exception of periodically moistening the soil to prevent the roots from drying out, and when spring comes, it should be moved to a sunny place and watering should be increased.

Planting in the ground in in this case Usually produced in late spring, when all return frosts have passed, and cared for in the same way as an annual crop.

Kobeya growing from seeds

Some problems in growing kobea are related to one of its natural feature— the seeds have a tough skin, which is difficult for the sprouts to handle.

Therefore, before planting, it is recommended to prepare them in a certain way:

1. Place at the bottom of a wide container, fill with water room temperature and seal with a lid;
2. After 24 hours, remove the softened crust, detaching only its easily peelable parts;
3. The seeds, peeled in the previous step, must be immersed in water until the peel peels off completely.

The resulting “clean” seeds will germinate an order of magnitude faster, if you also use the pre-germination methods in foil described above.

As a result, we will have an intensively developing, highly elongated, bushy, lush crown (subject to pinching), very decorative garden plant. We sow kobeya in open ground in June, placing young growth or seeds at a mutual distance of 70-90 cm.

Diseases and pests

The most significant damage is caused by mites and aphids. If kobeya blooms poorly - this is the first sign of damage by these insects. Spraying with a solution of liquid potassium green soap with phytoverm will help get rid of them, and pet flea shampoo works well against other pests.

This plant is characterized difficulty opening buds , therefore, if they swell for a long time without opening, they should be carefully cut with scissors.

To reduce the likelihood non-emergence , you should use the recommendations outlined above, and also choose seeds from several manufacturers at once in the store and, as additional measure, irrigate the soil with kobeya crops with zircon.

To make your garden plot elegant and bright, be sure to plant kobeya. This beautifully flowering shrub vine is simply created for garden landscaping. The homeland of the heat-loving climbing plant is the mountain forests of the subtropics and tropics of Central and South America. In our country, it is usually grown as annual plant, since kobeya does not always tolerate our frosts.

Kobeya: photo and description

The plant is characterized by long, over 7 m, stems, on which complex feathery leaves are located in a regular order, and the tips of the branches are complemented by tenacious tendrils, due to which the flower can tear itself off the ground on its own, clinging to any base. Kobeya grows quite quickly, in a short time, decorating huge areas with natural cover.

The plant blooms with large (approximately 9 cm in size) “bells” that create a musky pleasant aroma: During the growing season, long pedicels are formed from the axillary leaves, which are crowned with single or group flowers of 3–5 pieces with a large pistil and stamens. The young leaves of the inflorescence first have a yellow-green tint, then the flower becomes purple or white (depending on the type of kobei). The fruits of this plant look like capsules that are leathery and elastic to the touch, filled with small round seeds.

If the sun often pampers the plant with its warmth and light, then the kobeya will definitely reciprocate: in excellent weather, the flower grows surprisingly quickly. Moreover, the fibrous powerful roots of the flower are actively used nutritional elements from the environment.

Kobei are in their family There are 9 varieties, of which only one variety has taken root in ornamental gardening., which is also called creeping kobeya, or, as they are also called, “monastery bells”. This type of plant is successfully grown as an elegant decoration for a personal plot.

Features of planting kobei

The growth stage of kobei from a seed to a beautifully growing vine can be divided into two main processes:

• on initial stage Kobea seeds are being planted for seedlings;
• at the next stage, the germinated seeds are transplanted into the ground.

Tropical “living” determined the main character trait of this plant: kobeya does not tolerate negative temperatures, therefore it is cultivated as an annual plant. Get this beauty on personal plot It is possible only by planting kobeya seeds.

Kobeya in the garden: photos of the plant on the site

How to plant kobe seeds?

We invite you to familiarize yourself with the instructions for growing kobei:

• work with seeds is still starting in early spring . The bottom of a wooden container is covered with several layers of thick toilet paper or gauze, then this flooring is impregnated with a diluted solution of manganese (potassium permanganate). The vine seeds are placed one at a time at a short distance from each other. The container with the upcoming seedlings is preserved using plastic film;
• choose a warm place for the container, under indirect sunlight. It’s okay if the seeds suddenly become covered with mucus: in this case, they are washed with a manganese solution, the covered paper is replaced and clean planting materials are re-placed on it. Tender shoots form in approximately 18–21 days. When the sprouts grow a little, they are planted in a common container;
• the approximate diameter of the total container for replanting the plant is about 9–11 cm. Loose soil is poured into this pot and seedlings are dug in to a depth of 1.6 cm. Each seed is laid out horizontally, with the flat side down. With the formation of the first leaf on the seedlings, it is transplanted into a separate container, not forgetting to install a peg in the ground - a “pack”.
• To plant on open ground (mid-spring), seedlings must be prepared in advance. 16–22 days before planting, the seedlings need to be hardened; to do this, place the container on the loggia overnight. This should not be done if there are still frosts at night;
• growing quickly, the seedlings stretch out greatly, and this greatly reduces them decorative properties. To create a branched and lush crown, young shoots need to be pinched;
• for normal acclimatization young plant select the most draft-free and sunniest area, for example, near the wall of a house or near a fence. The kobeya will be able to put up with the lack of sunlight, but the constant shadow will not give the vine the opportunity to show all its beauty during flowering. With the arrival of summer, the planting holes, located at a distance of 80–100 cm from each other, are filled with turf soil, peat and humus. The seedlings are placed here without removing the earthen ball. While weak seedlings have not yet begun to climb, they are given support in the form of pegs. A little later, when the shoots are already stronger, the plant will be able to independently climb onto the support installed nearby.

Conditions and care for kobeya after transplantation into open ground

The liana is actively growing and expends a lot of its energy to climb up with the help of its tendrils - and it is quite logical that this plant requires abundant and constant watering to grow, as well as a large number of nutrients. Especially Satisfaction of these needs becomes relevant when the summer days are dry and hot. Moreover, it is always necessary to carefully ensure that after watering the vines, water does not stagnate in the soil, otherwise root system Kobei are sure to suffer from the ubiquitous fungal infections.

Kobeya grows quite quickly, but begins to bloom only after weekly feeding - it is necessary to start adding fertilizers from the time of growing young sprouts from seeds in closed ground. The bait should be alternated:

• First, the soil where the kobeya grows is saturated with organic fertilizers;
• Then mineral supplements.

At the beginning of the growing season, the plant needs nitrogen most of all, and before flowering (early July) - phosphorus, potassium and various useful microelements. The bait must be carefully dosed: if you give the kobei an excessive amount of nitrogen, the vine will actively produce leaves, which will significantly reduce the flowering time. Unique fact: how acidic soil, the brighter the red color the plant inflorescences acquire; if there is a lot of lime in the soil, then the flower petals are more dominated by Blue colour.

Tree trunk circles soil certainly mulch with sawdust, peat or any other material, to which is of organic origin, so that it is possible to control the degree of humidity.

Kobeya is greatly “loved” by all kinds of garden pests, among which spider mite and aphids, therefore this plant must be frequently inspected and treated with insect repellents if the need arises.

Wintering of Kobei

As we said above, tropical liana is grown in our conditions as an annual plant, especially since it can be grown beautiful liana from a small amount of seeds is quite simple. At the same time, some summer residents manage to preserve this shrub in the winter, so that when the spring frosts go away, there will already be an adult, last year’s plant in the backyard.

This is actually a challenge to nature itself: organizing the wintering of a kobe and not ruining it is a rather difficult task, since this plant, first of all, is quite large, and the vine does not take root well after transplantation. However, this emotional shake-up is only beneficial for the plant. As practice has shown, kobeya, having coped with the winter, begins to bloom earlier and does so quite actively.

How to preserve kobeya in winter?

With the onset of autumn, at the end of September, all foliage is removed from the plant and carefully dug up. The most important thing is not to damage the roots - the root system, although quite large, is very fragile. Store the plant itself in a container, placing it in a cool and dark room at a temperature of at least 9–11C. The cellar is best suited for this.

In winter, kobeya is dormant and this plant does not require care. Periodically it is necessary to check the soil in which the roots of the vine are located, monitoring it normal level humidity. With the onset of spring, the plant is moved to a warm and bright place, slowly increasing the amount of watering of the vine. The plant is returned to its original place on the plot at the beginning of summer, when the insidious frosts are already far behind. Care and planting of kobei, which managed to survive the winter, are the same as for annual plants.

From mother plants that were able to overwinter, cuttings are cut off for vegetative propagation bush. When, after wintering, plants begin to form young shoots under the influence of heat and sunlight, the strongest of them are prepared for this purpose: carefully cut so as not to deform the mother plant, and stored in damp sand until the shoots create their own root system . Young seedlings are transferred to open ground when good weather returns to normal.

Flower growers who have been growing this climbing vine for a very long time talk about one unique feature: Kobeya, which is grown not from seeds, but from cuttings, begins to bloom earlier, but not as brightly and actively as the one grown from seeds.

Growing kobei in garden compositions

Flower growers love to grow this “branchy” beauty for its cheerful, lush appearance and significant growth on any surface where the vine can reach. Here's how you can use kobeya to refresh and beautify your home garden:

For many gardeners, kobeya is a rather capricious house flower. But those people who decided to grow this flower culture, and will give her the right care, as a result they will be able to get magnificent plant, which will decorate a flower garden on a balcony or garden plot.

The climbing kobea (pictured) is naturally found in tropical parts of South America. It received its name in honor of the Jesuit priest B. Cobo, who for many decades studied the Inca civilization in Mexico. And it was given the name by the botanist Cavanilles, who brought it to the botanical garden of Madrid in 1804. And although it has been cultivated for several centuries, this spectacular vine can rarely be seen in Russian gardens and dachas.

She is part of the Sinyukhov family. The genus of this plant includes about a dozen species, but only one species is used for vertical gardening and landscaping - climbing kobeya.

This is the original curly perennial attracts attention with large fragrant hanging flowers, shaped like bells, which are colored purple shade. At the very beginning, kobei flowers have a greenish tint, then become white, and later purple. But now they are created modern varieties white kobei.

The diameter of the flowers can vary from 5 to 8 centimeters, and their length is about 5 cm. On numerous long stems (up to 4 meters), they are located on elongated pedicels, one at a time or 2-3 pieces in the axils of the leaves. The original and spectacular look of kobei flowers is given by the elongated stamens and pistil, which are curled at the ends.

Slightly wrinkled pinnate leaves, consisting of 3 pairs of leaves, are attached to numerous shoots opposite each other using cuttings middle length. At the end of each leaf there is a strong, well-branched tendril, similar to a grape. With its help, the kobei is attached to supports and rises to great heights. A large number of branched brownish-green shoots form a “green wall” several meters high in just a few weeks.

Long flowering begins in July and continues until the first frost. Large, slightly rounded seeds are formed in a small capsule covered with a leathery shell in September. But it is not always possible for them to fully mature in the conditions of our country.

Since kobeya can withstand only 5 degrees below zero in cold weather, it is usually grown as an annual plant. But you can also store the vine rhizome, dug out with a lump of earth, in a cool place (3-5 degrees). Kobeya is also perfect for container growing and with this method of cultivation it is easiest to preserve, since there is no need to dig it up and replant it the next year.

This climbing plant is propagated using seeds and cuttings, which are cut from the mother plants. Growing Kobei from seeds does not require special knowledge and effort, but you need to know some aspects of this process. Optimal time for sowing is the end of February - beginning of March. Plants sown during this period usually bloom in July. At the right conditions Growing from sowing to the beginning of flowering takes 20 weeks.

Before planting, it is advisable to soak the seeds in water for a couple of hours and then place them in a solution with a stimulant to increase germination for five or six hours. For this you can use “Epin”, “Gumat-Baikal” or “Energin”.

After this treatment, the seeds are placed in low containers filled with loose, nutritious, breathable, well-moistened soil, and covered with a small layer of earth from 1 to 1.5 cm. The container with the seeds is covered with glass, transparent plastic or film to maintain the humidity at 100 percent. Best temperature For germination, 21 degrees Celsius is considered. The minimum germination temperature is 16 degrees.

Kobea seeds

The appearance of the first seedlings occurs within 2-4 weeks. During this period, be sure to ventilate containers with seeds. As soon as most of the seeds germinate, the cover is removed. To prevent the appearance of rot, mold or fungal diseases, the soil is spilled with phytosporin or a solution of potassium permanganate.

As soon as the first pair of true leaves appear on the seedlings, they are planted in containers with a diameter of about 12 centimeters with supports. This must be done carefully, trying to preserve all the roots of the seedlings. Supports for young plants are needed to prevent them from falling and clinging to each other.

You can also germinate seeds on wet cloth or paper. They are laid out so that they do not touch each other. In this case, you can immediately see which seeds are alive and which are not. And since seed germination is about 30 percent, this makes it possible to reduce the area under seeds and soil consumption. After the seeds hatch, they are planted in separate containers with a diameter of about 12 cm and covered with sufficiently moist soil (1-1.5 cm). As the seedlings grow, they are transplanted into larger containers.

Attention! It is worth remembering that the better developed the seedlings are, the more powerful they will be and the faster they will bloom.

Kobeya can be propagated using cuttings. They are prepared at the very beginning intensive growth plants that overwintered in cool rooms and then were planted in open ground in the spring. Cuttings are cut from shoots 15 to 25 cm long with several pairs of leaves (2 to 4) and rooted in damp sand in a slightly shaded place. Rooted cuttings develop much faster than plants obtained from seeds, but they do not bloom as abundantly or powerfully.

Very often, gardeners complain that their crops do not germinate; the problem may be that it was not done...

Landing

The place for growing is chosen in areas with strong solar lighting and fertile, loose soil. It must also be protected from cold winds and strong air currents.

It is advisable to plant climbing kobeya near walls facing south or west. It’s good if an openwork shadow falls on the plant on a hot afternoon. Groundwater on site constant cultivation should be located at a depth of at least a couple of meters.

Planting holes are filled with a mixture of peat, sand, humus and turf soil. Superphosphate and flower fertilizers are also added to it. Seedlings with a lump of earth are carefully removed from the containers, planted, attached to a support and watered with plenty of water. After watering, it is advisable to mulch the soil with rotted leaves, peat or tree bark. This prevents the formation of a crust on the surface of the soil, retains moisture in it and prevents weeds from growing.

Kobeya is planted in open ground only after the last frost has passed. In the southern part of Russia this happens after May 10-15, and in the middle zone - June 10-15.

Remember that young plants absolutely cannot tolerate the slightest frost.

Approximately 70-90 cm is left between the seedlings. For a fairly heavy kobei, support in the form of a rope, a mesh of various materials or trellises, more about which you can find out. First, the stems need to be tied up, and later they will weave along the support on their own.

If cold weather or heavy rains are expected immediately after planting, then the ground around the seedling should be mulched with dry grass, and it is better to cover the kobeya itself with several layers of lutrasil. If suddenly the upper part of the shoot is slightly frozen, then it needs to be shortened. With the onset of good weather, the shelter is immediately removed.

Care

Because this plant grows quickly, it requires large amounts of nutrients. You need to start feeding kobeya two weeks after planting. During this time, the culture takes root and begins to grow rapidly.

Fertilizers with a predominance of nitrogen are required for fertilizing in the first month, since the green mass of shoots and leaves increases. And when the buds begin to appear, it is better to choose fertilizers with more phosphorus and potassium, they help the plant during flowering.

The vine should be watered sparingly throughout the season, except on very hot and dry days. At this time, the amount of water is increased, but care must be taken to ensure that there is no excess moisture.

The climbing kobea practically does not need pruning and shaping, but you can remove dried flowers so that the plant does not waste energy on producing seeds. You also need to make sure that the vine does not entangle its neighbors growing next to it.

Aphids and spider mites can cause great harm to this vine. When aphids appear, the plant is treated with Fufanon, Actellik, Aktara or Bankop. Spraying is carried out at intervals of 2-4 weeks.

Spider mite

Spider mites are very dangerous pest, after which the plants are quickly depleted. This pest most often appears during hot and dry periods. To prevent spider mites, plants need to be showered frequently and the soil should not be allowed to dry out. When this insect appears, the plants are treated with Aktelik, Fitoferm, and Neoron. Usually two treatments are carried out.

With the onset of late autumn (before the first frost), the shoots of the kobei bush are cut off at a level of half a meter from the surface of the ground, and the highly branched root with a small lump of earth is carefully dug up and placed for storage in a cool, dry room with a temperature of 5 to 7 degrees. During winter period The bushes are regularly inspected and slightly moistened so that they do not dry out too much.

In the spring, when the last frost has not yet passed, the plants can be planted in large containers with soil and started to germinate in a bright room. And when the time comes for planting in open ground (May - June, depending on the region), the plants will already have grown shoots.

When transplanting from a container into the ground, you need to preserve the earthen ball with roots. At the end of it, the bush is watered with a large amount of water, and then with a solution of “Kornevin” or another stimulant, which helps the formation of small white absorbing roots.

Petunia is one of the most popular flowers, attractive and quite unpretentious. They look very impressive...

Using kobeya in landscape design

In landscaping and landscape design Kobeya is used to decorate vertical and horizontal surfaces of walls, fences, as well as pergolas, gazebos and arches. She attracts attention with her decorative look, abundant flowering, excellent tolerance to sun and heat, as well as the speed and power of growth and development. This plant is perfect for creating “green curtains” in cafes, terraces, loggias and balconies, as it can be grown in portable containers and large vases on wheels.

Kobeya climbing in a bouquet

It can be combined with climbing plants and vines such as campsis, clematis, honeysuckle honeysuckle, hops, actinidia, climbing roses or luxurious ones that require a lot of effort in our climate. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the growth and development rates of these plants and kobei.

For example, hops and campsis are not inferior in growth rate and aggressiveness, so they can be planted next to kobeya at a distance of two to three meters. You should not let the shoots of these plants entwine each other, since in the fall it will be very difficult to remove the branches of kobei from the prickly trunks of hops or lignified shoots of campsis.

Remember that campsis and hops have strong branches that are rigidly attached to supports. They can rise up to 4 meters or more. And removing kobe shoots from hops and campsis at such a height is very labor-intensive and dangerous work.

Wisteria, clematis, actinidia, honeysuckle honeysuckle and climbing roses (ramblers, climbers, climbers) are inferior in speed, power and aggressiveness. These climbing crops are planted at a distance of about three meters from the kobei.

And throughout the entire growing season, you need to ensure that this tropical crop does not use its landscaping neighbors as a support, and does not choke or shade them. If kobei shoots begin to entwine the branches and trunks of other plants, they must be carefully removed.

This plant can also be used to create various “living” shapes and figures, which are made from metal mesh or wire. Kobeya is planted at the very base of this figure and the shoots are attached to a mesh or wire. Subsequently, the shoots of the plant are distributed evenly throughout the entire shape or figure.

Decorating gardens and personal plots is often associated with breeding climbing plants. One of them is the kobei liana flower. Its extraordinary beauty and fairly long flowering period make it popular and arouse interest in the study of vegetative properties.

Often popular in Russia are of overseas origin. Therefore, many plants are either unable to get used to our climate at all, or adapt over many years (as a result of which its characteristics and agricultural technology change).

Garden kobeya was no exception to the rule. It is used for vertical gardening, has the appearance of a vine, and is heat- and light-loving. At proper care will reward you with luxurious thickets.

Origin

In this case, the plant came to the Eurasian continent from South America. Particularly common in Peru and Mexico. There, in the hot and humid tropical climate, kobeya can be described as follows:

• it is a perennial flower;
• V natural conditions propagates by self-sowing through falling seeds;
• has more than 10 species;
• adult plants reach a height of 5-8 m;
• the diameter of the flower bell is up to 10-11 cm;
• clings tightly to the support with the help of antennae.

In Russian conditions

In Russia we have kobeya:

• not able to develop by self-sowing;
• is an annual plant;
• propagated by seeds;
• grows up to 3-5 m high;
• has a flower bell diameter of up to 6-8 cm.

IMPORTANT. Planting material you have to buy it again every year, because in the climatic conditions of our continent the seeds do not have time to ripen.

Why is it attractive?

Kobeya is valued for the fact that she:

• creates the illusion of a jungle;
• allows you to hide unsightly elements under the thickets - old cracked walls, unsightly design defects, etc.;
• provides aesthetic pleasure from the process of growing and caring for the plant;
• leaves are pinnate;
• abundant flowering;
• pleases the eye with purple and greenish-white bell-shaped flowers;
• the foliage is quite dense, with horizontal-vertical branching (it is possible to create the illusion of a green carpet);
• grows quickly;
• Flowering lasts until the first frost.

Soil requirements

Due to the fact that kobeya was “born” in southern latitudes, it requires soils with the following characteristics:

• consistently moderately humid;
• soft;
• loose.

Natural tropical soils are just like that. Russian gardeners have to focus on:

• systematic loosening;
• humidity tracking and hydration;
• soil nutrition.

IMPORTANT. Use quality fertilizers from specialized stores. There, this product is targeted in a targeted manner - consult a competent seller.

Seedling

It will not be difficult for experienced gardeners to create a home jungle of kobeya. Beginners will have to spend a little more time studying agricultural technology, but achieving a positive result at low cost is also possible.

Seed preparation

As soon as you bought seeds in the store, immediately keep in mind: first you need to turn them into seedlings (planting seeds in open ground means dooming them to death). But even for seedlings, seeds require certain preparation:

• it is necessary for each seed to sprouted before planting in seedling containers;
• spread the seeds on a damp cloth (it will also work toilet paper or a paper napkin folded in several layers);

IMPORTANT. Make sure that each seed is kept at a distance from the others and does not touch its neighbors.

• moisten the cloth with the seeds and cover with plastic wrap;
• place it where it is not cold and there is good access to light;
• after 10-14 days the seeds should sprout;
• if you see mold appearing in places, carefully rinse the seeds and fabric (or change the paper);
• It’s time to plant those seeds that have sprouted successfully into the ground for growing seedlings.

Seed placement

Now the prepared seeds need to be turned into seedlings that can adapt to open ground:

• to grow seedlings, sowing should begin in late February - early March;
• use boxes no more than 15-18 cm high;

IMPORTANT. Soak the seeds without preliminary preparation for several hours in a solution of a growth stimulator (check with specialized stores about this substance and how to dilute it).

• seeds require planting to a depth of 1.5 cm;
• place them in the ground with the flat side down;

• the temperature of the room where the box with seedlings is located should be 19-20 degrees;
• Fill 5-7 cm boxes with soil from a specialized store (intended for flowers or for mixing with garden soil);

IMPORTANT. If everything was done correctly, shoots will appear in 14-20 days. Please note that seed germination is approximately 30% - this is not a matter of the reliability of the supplier, but of the specifics of the plant itself.

Growing seedlings

Once the seeds are in the ground, mark the planting date on a notepad. This will help you keep track of the dynamics. Use the experience gained next year, because you will like the kobeya so much that you will probably want to leave it in your garden forever.

Regular actions:

• until the seeds have sprouted, check the soil in the box - it should be moderately moist (but in no case swampy and sticky);
• Light drying on the surface is acceptable (however, the soil must not dry out inside);
• seeds in the ground do not require light - the main thing is warmth and moisture.

Cupping

An important stage is cropping of plants. When transplanted into separate containers, further strengthening and development are ensured. This stage determines how well the kobei will subsequently tolerate being placed in open ground.

What do we have to do:

• with the appearance of the first shoots, track the moment when the first leaf appears, or even better - two;

• When the first leaves appear, crop the plants 1 at a time. in separate pots;
• Of great importance is such a factor as the size of the containers. Boxes or pots must be voluminous - otherwise the root system will not be able to fully develop;

IMPORTANT. The seedlings must be planted in the ground along with the root ball. Make sure there is enough soil in the seedling pots or boxes.

• focus on a capacity of 3-4 liters;
• For support, place an independent peg in each pot in advance. Within a few days after docking, the kobeya will begin to look for something to cling to - such is its curly nature;

• from now on it is no longer so critical to comply high temperatures- the plant feels good even at 14-15 degrees Celsius. The main thing is to beware of frost, so that the kobeya is not caught by frost on the loggia or glazed balcony;

IMPORTANT. On warm sunny days, it is useful to take the seedlings outside so that they begin to get used to their natural environment.

Video - Sowing and diving kobei

Transplantation into the ground

Basic Rules:

• Seedlings are planted in open ground in late May - early June;
• it happens that the year is especially hot, all processes accelerate - then transplantation is possible in mid-May (the same applies to the warmest regions of the country);
• start planting only after the danger of frost has completely passed.

Distance

Liana plants require an optimal distance between neighboring plants. It is necessary that there is no crowding, and also that the growing antennae can reach each other.

IMPORTANT. With a smaller distance, it will be too crowded, and with a larger distance, it will be much more difficult for the plant to cling to each other with its tendrils, and the “green carpet” effect will be weakened in many ways.

Soil and light

Climbing kobeya claims to have prepared soil and lack of shade:

• strictly follow the lighting requirements - kobeya grows well in richly lit places. Moderate darkening is acceptable, but not recommended. Complete darkening is strictly not recommended (the plant will wither);
• remember that the soil must be fertile. To make your task easier, place fenced planting rows or containers with fertile soil for annual planting. Then all you have to do is dig it up in the spring from year to year.

Planting plants in the ground

• mark the holes (the distance between plants should be from 60 to 80 cm);
• dig the ground to a depth based on how much the root system has grown (make a vertical and horizontal reserve of 5-7 cm, because the roots will continue to grow in open ground);
• spill the holes with water, wait until the water is absorbed into the ground;
• do not forget that the holes must have fertile, loose soil;

IMPORTANT. To help the plant “slip out” easily along with the root ball, water it in advance while it is in the planting container.

• place each plant in a separate hole;
• Gently sprinkle soil on top;
• pour water (not ice cold, but pre-settled at room temperature).

Care

Once the plants are in the ground, they require further care. And it, in turn, consists of four stages:

• watering;
• weeding;
• fertilizer;
• protection from pests.

Watering

The climbing kobei has an amazing genetic memory. The plant still requires the same conditions in which its distant South American tropical ancestors grew. And even now in the tropics the situation has not changed, and the Eurasian “relative” still requires sufficient humidity.

• Water the kobeya as often as possible;
• pour not into the holes, but onto the entire plantation from a hose or watering can (in this way you will not only provide water to the root system, but also to every cell of the plant - it will be easier for it to breathe).

IMPORTANT. Flooding the roots is a dangerous extreme. The soil should be moist, but not swampy. Otherwise, there is a risk of root rot.

Fertilizer

Throughout the growth and development of the kobei, it needs the following elements:

• phosphorus;
• potassium;
• nitrogen.

However, there are subtleties of feeding:

• nitrogen is extremely necessary in “infancy”;
• when forming buds, phosphorus and potassium are needed;

IMPORTANT. Long-term abuse of nitrogen will lead to the fact that foliage will dominate in an adult plant, and there will be very few flowers.

• buy special mineral mixtures in flower and garden stores (be sure to specify what exactly they are for and what composition);
• start feeding the plant literally from the first days of life;
• Fertilization frequency - weekly. This will make the growth of the kobei stable and uniform.

Pest protection

What dangers await the climbing kobe during the formation of buds, during the flowering period and further growth:

• pests - spider mites and aphids;

Methods of struggle and correction:

• remove infected leaves immediately and burn;

• treat the plant with a “bump” of laundry soap on the water;
• For prevention, use special solutions (you can buy them in gardening stores).

Annual or perennial

In Russian conditions it is very difficult to grow kobeya as a perennial. Only the most desperate gardening fans succeed in this. It is much easier to buy new seeds every year. But if you still want to go further, use simple recipe saving an existing plant for next summer:

• in mid-October, carefully trim the kobei stems with a sharp garden knife;
• Dig up the vine with roots;

• place in a spacious container along with soil on the roots;
• place the container in the cellar (without frosty air, but with moderate humidity);
• in this way, the climbing kobe can safely overwinter;
• Around mid-March, take out the container and start watering the plant indoors;
• With the beginning of warm days, plant it back into the soil.

Remember that growing flowers requires attention and responsibility. As for the climbing kobe, we can say that it is rewarding work - preparing seedlings, planting them in the ground and taking care of the plant. In return you get an original garden design, a wonderful way to decorate architectural elements and satisfaction from the work performed.

One of the many types tropical vines, has unusually beautiful and large flowers. In its homeland, it is a perennial plant, but in our conditions it rarely survives the winter; it has to be planted every year. In the tropics, kobeya has nine species; in our country, only two are grown: with purple and white flowers. These two species are most adapted to unfavorable climatic conditions.

The plant has tenacious tendrils that allow it to hold firmly on vertical planes and climb from one support to another. The flowers are shaped like bells and can reach eight centimeters in diameter. As they develop, the color of the flowers changes, which gives them a special beauty. Plants are very often used by professional landscape designers for vertical gardening of gazebos, verandas, fences, etc.

Flowers can be single or group, grow from the axils of the leaves on long stalks. The fruit is a capsule with a hard skin, opens at the side seams, the seeds are flat and oval. In the conditions of our country, most often they do not fully ripen. For cultivation, you should buy it in specialized flower shops.

An adult plant prefers fertile, loose soil and requires abundant watering. Does not tolerate shade; development is slightly inhibited in partial shade. Young shoots die when frozen, adults can withstand down to -5°C.

Planting seeds

You need to start planting seeds from February to March. The earlier the better. But the climate zone of residence should be taken into account. When planting in open ground, the risk of frost should be minimal. If the weather forecast is unfavorable, then the seedlings must be protected from freezing temperatures.

It is difficult for the seeds to germinate; soaking and stimulation are recommended to increase germination. Kobe seeds are large, there are five pieces in one bag. If you purchase goods from trusted sellers, then there is hope that out of five pieces, four will come up. But practitioners advise to count on about 50%; it is better to sow with a reserve than to regret the pennies saved later. Growing kobeya from seeds can be done in two ways.

Dry seeds

Land can be purchased ( the best option) or prepared independently. To prepare the soil, one part of turf soil is mixed with one part of washed sand. To increase nutritional value, it is recommended to add humus or complex mineral fertilizers to the mixture.

Very important. The seeds have a very hard seed coat, which damages the first leaves during germination. In order to help shed it, the soil must be strongly compacted after sowing. Such an agrotechnical technique will enable the plant to free itself from the seed coat while still in the ground; the cotyledon leaves will not be damaged.

Prepared seeds

Before sowing, the material is soaked in growth stimulants.

You can use any, they all have a positive effect. Experienced flower growers recommend removing the shell yourself. To do this, after swelling, you need to very carefully pry it with a needle and try to remove it. How to properly prepare seeds?

Seeds take a long time to germinate, about three weeks. You need to be prepared for such long periods and not panic prematurely.

How to plant sprouted seeds in pots or cups

1. Carefully remove the hatched kobe seeds and place them on a previously prepared and moistened substrate, flat side down, sprout up. Sprinkle about 1.5 cm of soil on top and water again with a sprayer. Compact the soil a little. The seeds of the plant are large, this allows you to immediately plant the plants separately, and in the future there will be no need for thinning and picking.
2. Cover the cups or pots with film and place the containers on the windowsill. It is highly desirable that it be on the south side; natural light is very important for kobei.

Slightly grown seedlings with two true leaves need to be transplanted into larger ones (at least three liters) flower pots, in them they can form a powerful root system, and this is very important for increasing survival rate.

At the same stage of growth, plants are hardened. The procedure must be performed without haste. First, take the vines out onto the balcony for several hours in good weather.

Over time, the period of exposure to the open air increases. When the weather gets significantly warmer, you can try leaving them overnight. Just be very careful, watch the weather and don’t let the sprouts fall under negative temperatures. Hardening lasts approximately three weeks, thus achieving the expected effect in a plant-friendly manner.

Transferring kobei to open ground

The specific date is determined by the climate zone of residence and actual weather conditions. It is recommended to transfer seedlings when the night temperature does not fall below +5°C. For middle zone In our country it is the end of May or the beginning of June.

Important. Keeping seedlings in pots for a long time is not good for them. It is more difficult for plants to take root, and the transfer process becomes more complicated.

First you need to decide on a place. It should be sunny and protected from cold winds, especially northern and eastern ones. The soil must be fertile. If the land on the site is not fertile, then you will have to prepare the land yourself for the kobei. You can enter organic fertilizers into existing ones, or you can bring a completely new one under the beds. On heavy clay soils the plant feels very bad, development slows down, and sometimes there may be no flowering. Clay lands will have to be improved. There are several methods.

1. First. Mix with river sand in a 1:1 ratio and add organic fertilizers.
2. Second. Bring fertile land. Dig out the clay to a depth of forty centimeters, pour new soil into the prepared areas.

Practical advice. Replacement or improvement of the soil should be done in a timely manner. At the time of planting, it should already shrink; this will take at least a month. Otherwise, the soil will shrink faster than the root system grows, small roots will be injured or torn off, which has an extremely negative impact on the growing season.

Remove the kobeya from the pots along with the soil, making sure that the roots are not damaged. If the soil is difficult to remove, it is recommended to water the plants abundantly in the evening and move the replanting to the morning. Plant kobeya in prepared holes, the depth of which corresponds to the height of the soil in the pots. Sprinkling the stem with new soil is not recommended.

The distance between plants is within one meter; after transplanting, water the plants immediately. At the same time, you need to install supports along which the vine will rise. These can be either ordinary wooden stairs or decorative supports. If there is concern that night frosts may return, then the plants should be covered. It is better to use non-woven modern lightweight materials for these purposes.

Kobei look very beautiful on various arches. In order to make it easier for plants to attach to supporting structures, it is recommended to use plastic mesh with large cells.

Some gardeners offer interesting way planting kobei. They plant seeds in summer peat tablets. Until mid-autumn they grow a little. Then the plants are put into the cellar and stored until spring at a temperature of +5–8°C. In the spring, when the threat of frost has passed, the plants are taken out into the fresh air, hardened, awakened and transplanted into open ground. Plants planted in this way bloom much earlier. The only problem is that you need to constantly monitor the condition of the plants in the cellar all winter. They should not outgrow; there should be enough light for the growing season.

Plant care

As already mentioned, the homeland of kobei is the tropics. Hence the rules for caring for vines. She is afraid of two things - hypothermia and lack of moisture. It is necessary to water especially abundantly in the first months after planting in open ground; in the future, the frequency and dose of watering can be reduced. If plants are planted in the shade, and the temperature is insufficient, then the risk of root rot is high. It is very difficult to fight this disease. If the plant does not die, it will not throw away its flower stalks. This means that it will be possible to admire their beauty only next year on new plants.

The first fertilizing should contain nitrogen. With its help, a powerful root system and leaves are formed. Subsequently, as development progresses, the intensity of nitrogen fertilizing is reduced and eventually stopped completely. Adult plants are fed only with phosphorus and potassium. These nutrients needed for the formation of buds.

The length of the vine can be up to ten meters; if this parameter is not adjusted, it will crawl far up and there it will begin to curl up into a ball. To prevent such phenomena, the plant is pinched. But don’t get too carried away, otherwise the vine will become very low and wide.

Pests and diseases

The biggest problems can be caused by aphids and mites. The fight is carried out in the usual way; liquid soap with phytoverm has performed well.

Is it possible to collect seeds?

It is possible, but not in all climate zones. We have already mentioned that not all latitudes have a sufficient amount of positive temperatures for the full ripening of seeds. If you live in the south, then try collecting them. To do this, you need to plant the plants in open ground as early as possible to give them enough time to mature. But it should be remembered that even professional agronomists in our country collect seeds with a germination rate of no more than 30%. Now think about whether it’s worth the risk of being left without these beautiful plants next year due to the fact that the seeds turned out to be non-viable.

Video - Growing Kobei