Do-it-yourself border for garden beds - extraordinary transformations! Types of fencing for garden beds

Even garden beds fenced with a border will delight any gardener or summer resident, because in addition to beauty, it is also practical. If the cost of finished materials stops you, then why not make a border for your garden beds yourself?!

Why fence beds - good reasons

Garden beds look much more tidy if they are surrounded by a border. But it is not beauty that motivates gardeners - such beds are also much easier to care for. Firstly, weeds cause less trouble, since the area free from beds, the same paths, can be covered with bark or sawdust mulch. Secondly, with the help of high sides you can increase the thickness of the fertile layer - most often this is the goal that summer residents are guided by when constructing fences. Fertile soil can be selected from plant-free spaces, or increased within borders with organic mulch and compost.

A well-fertilized, fertile layer does not even need to be dug up from year to year., therefore, there is economic sense in the construction of curbs. The sides will make life easier for those who grow plants in greenhouses - it is much more convenient to attach arcs for greenhouses to the hard surface of the fence than to soft ground, and the structure will be much more reliable. Whatever one may say, there are plenty of reasons for such pleasure!

What can you use to make a border for your garden beds? Let’s use your imagination!

The first thing that comes to mind is wood - boards, beams, slats, in a word, everything wooden that can be nailed down and fastened together. In regions where there are no problems with trees, this DIY border for garden beds will be the easiest way out. The solution, of course, is not cheap, but very durable and beautiful. In addition, such structures are installed very quickly, and dismantling them is even faster. And it’s convenient to work with - you can lean on a thick board or beam, or even sit down, put a pot of seedlings or a watering can.

It is not necessary to use it for this new material– on the farm there will probably be a lot of old slats from boxes or other products that have already served their intended purpose.

There will be more hassle with them, but the costs will be significantly reduced. Of course, the downside of any wooden element is its weakness to moisture and rot. Although there is a way out - today there are many impregnations that will protect wood from destruction even in direct contact with the soil.

What can you make a border for garden beds from if you want to solve this problem for a long time, and you are ready to devote not only time, but also money to this issue? In this case the best option will be for you metal constructions made of galvanized steel - you can either make them yourself or buy them already ready-made options. They will serve for decades and, moreover, are very mobile - rearranging them will not take much time. True, this method also has its drawback - the metal gets very hot under the sun and, in turn, heats the soil.

There are remnants of old slate in almost every household - either the roof was replaced, or they were bought with a reserve many years ago, when it was much cheaper. Of course, there is no point in buying new sheets for such purposes - it would be easier to spend money on wooden beams. By and large, the low cost of this material is its only, but very significant advantage. Disadvantages - fragility and brittleness, and why older material, the more pronounced these shortcomings become.

You can even fence a garden bed with stone and concrete - in such a frame, even carrots will look no worse than an exotic flower. Of course, expensive, but certainly for centuries! A more economical option would be to lay a paved path between the rows - in this case, the path can also serve as a frame. The disadvantage of such fences is their stationary nature. Gardeners love to constantly move their beds, changing their proportions and location from year to year. This option is more suitable for “yard” gardening, when you sometimes want to dig into the ground and eat vegetables from your garden and at the same time spend as little time as possible on such work.

Borders for lawns and flower beds - an economical solution

And flower beds have much greater aesthetic significance than borders for beds, so old slate will not do here. They are not without practical meaning - any fence will protect the soil from erosion and spreading during precipitation and watering. You can decorate a flowerbed with your own hands using old bricks - there has never been a single construction project that would have been completed without its remains. The older the brick, the more interesting it is - the surface slightly corroded over the years, rounded corners...

A fence in which the first two rows will be laid flat, and the third, final row, with an edge, perpendicular to the previous ones, will look very beautiful, which will allow it to hang slightly above the ground. This design is no worse in appearance than others expensive options. If there is no time or desire for masonry, the usual arrangement of cobblestones or large pieces of crushed stone can quite adequately decorate and protect your flowerbed. If cobblestone seems too wild an option for you, you can make your own tiles same sizes and molds are much cheaper than buying ready-made ones!

Border tiles - we do it ourselves!

You can give the shape of such a tile using any plastic molds lying around in your kitchen. The main thing is that they are the same! If there are no such molds, look in the store for deep disposable dishes or packaging boxes; it is best to take trapezoidal plates - cement does not stick to their surface, which is very important for obtaining the most aesthetic appearance; they turn out smooth and of a convenient shape.

How to make border tiles with your own hands - step-by-step diagram

Step 1: Prepare the solution

It is best to buy a bag of M500 cement and quarry sand for such tiles. There shouldn't be any debris or lumps in the sand, so it won't hurt to sift it. The ratio for the solution is 1:3. Mix the sand and cement, first without water, until the mass becomes uniform. It is better not to mix the entire solution with water at once; separate a certain amount into a separate container and mix it with water there. We need a liquid solution, like sour cream.

Organic farming - when all garden beds consist of compost - is gaining more and more supporters. How to make beds so that there are no weeds in them? Introducing raised beds with fencing from Igor Lyadov - do-it-yourself box beds.

I want to talk about the methods of growing vegetables that I have chosen over many years of trial and error. I combined two technologies:

  1. "Beds are a unique vegetable growing technology for small areas."
  2. "Agricultural technology of natural farming."

I have become convinced that organics can unleash all the capabilities of plants, saving energy and time. Only with good compost can you see and appreciate the quality of Western and domestic varieties: Most are created for organic soil. I am sure that we cannot escape organics. That's all there is to it: learn how to compost and also set up permanent beds - once for many years.

The method of vegetable growing on narrow beds was developed by J. Mittleider in the 70s of the last century and brought by the author to Russia in 1989. And although Mittleider does not recommend placing the box on narrow beds, I still put together the boxes. Nature itself told me this, or rather, the unpredictability of our Far Eastern climate.

In the spring, many summer cottages are flooded, the water does not have time to recede, and there is water in the passages. We have the same problem at the end of August and beginning of September - it rains day and night. And in the middle of summer it can rain for 2-3 days, or it can flood the entire garden in half an hour. Raising the bed 15–25 cm above the path solves this problem.

The width of the bed is 80–90 cm, the length is arbitrary. The gap between the beds is 50–70 cm. The width of the box and the width of the passage depend on climatic conditions.

For more northern regions, the passages should be made wider - 70–80 cm. The bed itself should be narrower than 60–80 cm, so that it warms up well.

For the southern regions, passages should be made narrower: 40–50 cm. The bed itself is 90–100 cm.

A vegetable container is a high bed, the walls of which are made of bricks, logs, timber, boards, stone, slate... It is advisable to extend the beds from north to south. But we mainly focus on the topography of the dacha plot so that the slope of the bed is small. Some of my beds are located from east to west, and the harvest on them is no worse.

The passages between the beds must be mulched with sand, sawdust, roofing felt, etc. In some aisles, I preferred the lawn, which I mow once a month with a trimmer. Some passages were covered with sawdust. The beauty of the garden leaves no one indifferent. There are no weeds, the site is clean and beautiful.

Each bed consists of two rows of vegetables planted along the edges in a checkerboard pattern. This geometry hides a huge reserve of productivity, because it has long been noticed: the outer plant develops almost twice as well as those in the middle - they have much more light and space for growth. And here - all the plants are extreme. A wide row spacing is needed to give them light and space.

I plant cabbage, eggplants, peppers, tomatoes, etc. in two rows in a checkerboard pattern. I plant onions, garlic, beets, lettuces, radishes, carrots, etc. in four rows.

Anyone who has worked on narrow ridges for at least one season is convinced of the enormous possibilities of this method and simply cannot return to traditional technology. Working on the ridges, a person experiences joy not only from good harvest, but also from the process of growing vegetables itself.

We choose a flat area. We will install a high bed on it.

The sides of the bed can be made of brick, slate, or logs. The main thing is to fence the garden bed. Personally, I took logs from an old house: the wood inside began to decompose, but they are suitable for a garden bed and will last at least 15 years.

We lay the logs stably on the ground; they can even be buried if necessary. We fasten the logs together with screws or nails.

Many people ask how long such boards or logs last. There are many anti-corrosion products on sale now. By treating them, you can significantly extend the service life of such a bed.

If you paint a box bed (with lime or paint on water based) this will not only make your box chest more aesthetically pleasing, protect the wood from rotting, but also prevent the sides from heating up on hot days. White color repels sun rays. For example, potatoes do not like it when the ground gets very hot from the sides.

We put cardboard or a thick layer of newspapers at the bottom of the box bed to cut off weeds that will try to sprout and any pests.

Many people think that cardboard is covered with glue, and that newspaper contains a lot of lead. Nothing like that, the technologies have long been different, and soil microorganisms will process everything in a year or three. And we will gain time by ridding our garden bed of weeds, as well as pests such as beetles or wireworms. Cardboard is a serious obstacle for them.

Then we lay down coarse organic matter: the remains of sunflowers, corn, thin branches, etc.

Place other organic remains on top - beets, cabbage, carrots. You can use potato tops. It doesn't matter what condition it is in. Microorganisms will process even diseased plants. For the same purposes, you can use leaf litter and pine needles.

But you can’t put weedy grass, so as not to multiply the weeds. And you can’t put food waste in the garden bed, otherwise there will be mice.

Pour a ten centimeter layer of earth on top. The soil should not be level with the sides of the bed. You should have 5–10 cm left, which is necessary for mulching the bed.

If the box bed settles in the first year, then the next year add plant residues and more soil on top. The box bed is ready.

From food waste with the addition of plant residues, very good humus is obtained. I found a way out of this situation.
I take a container (200 liter barrel) and put food waste mixed with plant debris there and close it with a lid. During the summer the container is filled. In the sun, the contents warm up well and are inaccessible to mice. Next year you will have good humus.

The newly created bed does not need to be prepared for planting. But you must be prepared that in the first year, if plant residues are not laid tightly, the bed will sag during the summer.

In the first year you can plant potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, and cabbage on it. I do not recommend planting carrots in the first year.

In the second and subsequent years, I prepare the bed for planting like this. 3-5 days before planting, I remove the mulch from the bed, but it is better to embed it in the bed. If the mulch is not removed, the bed will not warm up as well.

Now we need to loosen the bed by 10 cm. It’s convenient for me to do this with a shovel, and at the same time we remove the weed. You can go through it with a hand cultivator. No need to dig a bed with the entire bayonet of a shovel and at the same time pull plant debris to the surface.

What to do with the garden bed in a few years

Many people ask what to do when plant debris rots. This takes about 4–5 years.

There is no need to remove the soil from the garden box. In the third or fourth year, I simply sow green manure in this bed, for example oats, which I subsequently plant into the soil. The second option is to leave mulch on the garden bed. The second one is preferable.

Mulch is softer. It is easier to incorporate into the soil and decomposes faster, because it has already decayed during the season. Green manure and mulch become food for microorganisms.


Pros and cons of box beds

Filled with the remains of plants that have lived their life, box beds allow you to avoid untidy compost heaps on the site. Everything immediately hides in narrow beds and begins to be useful. There are no weeds, the site is clean and beautiful. The box bed has a lot of advantages and only one serious drawback: it requires material costs for construction in the first year.

7 advantages of a box bed:
  • Such a bed works for several years, one might say forever (all that remains is to replenish it with plant debris, foliage, etc.). When planting, you do not need to add compost or rotted manure into the hole. This bed is itself compost.
  • The humus is not washed away, since the bed is fenced.
  • Convenient watering. There is no stagnation of water.
  • Does not require hilling. Does not require weeding - if the bed is mulched.
  • Can be produced early boarding, since such a bed warms up faster in the spring than a regular one.
  • Crop rotation is easy in narrow beds. Where you planted onions last year, you can plant carrots or cabbage this year.
  • Productivity increases by 100% or more.
  • Tubers and root vegetables are clean, without visible signs of disease.
  • Takes up minimal space and does not create dirt or clutter.
  • It is very convenient to make shelter with plastic arcs, which are sold in seed stores. We place two pegs on both sides of the bed and put an arc on them. The distance between the arcs is about a meter. Depending on the length of the bed, you install the required number of arcs. Covering material or film can be used over the arches until the threat of frost has passed.

So, to maintain fertility in a box-bed, you do not need to add fertilizing, growth stimulants or fertilizers; it is enough to leave mulch on the garden bed in the third or fourth year (for me this is a more preferable option) or sow green manure. So, for example, I removed the garlic at the end of July-beginning of August - sowed oats, planted everything in the ground - the microorganisms feed.

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Discussion

My husband and I installed a galvanized garden bed. It is very easy to assemble (we put it in the basement for the winter) and holds the ground well.

Comment on the article "Do-it-yourself beds, photo. Fences for garden beds"

Raised beds in winter. Arrangement of the site. Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. I’m afraid to plant other perennials above ground level (my husband had an idea to make them Freeze Out. Raised beds - share your experience. In the beds. Cottage, garden and vegetable garden.

Discussion

I have 4 tires in front of the garage entrance (outside the lot) that have been turned into flower beds. Now there is cypress spurge, it overwinters well and does not freeze. I also had a positive experience with hostas, but they still need to be watered, and I’m too lazy to go outside the gate.

Who has stationary beds? On the beds. Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchasing, landscaping, planting trees and Who has stationary beds? Please share your impressions, whether it’s comfortable or not, what it’s made of, how you care for it, etc. Thank you.

Discussion

a 20cm moisture-resistant laminate remained, made warm beds and secured them with pegs (they removed 20cm of soil deep, applied hay and straw from the field, then soil on top. 3 years, normal flight.

I have 7 such beds. Height is from 50 to 70 cm. They are expensive, of course. And there’s a lot of earth to cover with boards. I also lined the inside with film so that the boards wouldn’t rot.
The main thing is that such rows need to be watered regularly! Everything quickly dries out and the water goes down.

And so everything grows: carrots and beets and cucumbers and tomatoes. I cover the latter with film on top.

27.01.2017 12:43:58, I like it - convenient and tidy

Discussion

I have greenery growing in my flower beds. The lettuce frames the flowers, the dill itself decides where to sprout and where it is best to release huge parachutes. The pumpkin is sitting in a barrel and has already climbed over a two-meter fence.
In the greenhouse I have two six-meter beds 115 cm wide. About 70 cm between them there is a passage under the yellow carpeted. The greenhouse is on a foundation made of timber on bricks and the beds are framed with 20 mm timber. The beds are high, the internal volume is covered with 25 cm plastic tape.

The plastic bends, even the corrugated one, 50 cm wide, half buried in the ground, has to be propped up with sticks. But my plot has a slope. Wavy slate is the best so far. If someone nearby changes the roof, for example, it will be completely free. The width of the bed is so that it is convenient to reach from any edge to the middle and a little further (weeding, mulching). I have row spacing so that the mower can pass through, it’s like a lawn there.

Raised beds - share your experience. On the beds. Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchase, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs, seedlings, beds, vegetables, fruits, berries, harvest. Photo of the first days of May, right after the beds were made.

Discussion

We have two 15 cm wooden boards. Impregnated with Olympus eco-azure, the inside is lined with roofing felt to protect it from the ground. They have been standing for 10 years without any major changes, very convenient.

Oh, what a relevant topic) We just made these beds this year. We bought thicker boards and covered them with green stain. There was a distance between the beds so that a lawn mower could pass. We haven’t been to the dacha for the last two weeks since mid-May, but when we arrived there were practically no weeds) before, I would have spent the day weeding)
In general, I hope I won’t be disappointed further.
Photo of the first days of May, right after the beds were made

Who has stationary beds? On the beds. Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchasing, landscaping, planting trees and How to make beds with your own hands: photos and tips from Kurdyumov. High beds - boxes, warm beds, compost, mulch and drip irrigation.

Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchase, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs, seedlings, beds, vegetables, fruits, berries, harvest. The dacha came to us. We have an oak tree on our neighbors’ property but right next to us. We have a carpet of leaves. And what to do with them?

Discussion

Good evening
we have 2 oak trees. We make a warm bed from the leaves. We dig a hole the size of a garden bed, approx. deep. 30-40 cm, plus the sides up 15 cm and there during the spring-summer-autumn we put grass, leaves, weeds, small branches...
Cover it with material for the winter.
In the spring we fill it with purchased soil. Next we plant cucumbers, strawberries, zucchini, pumpkin... basically everything except root vegetables. The harvest is excellent, additional warmth is created for the plants.

You can burn it in a metal barrel, why are leaves not suitable for compost?

multi-tiered beds. Landscape design. Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. I wanted to make such a multi-tiered bed for strawberries - from childhood I remember the pyramid at my relatives’ dacha near Tallinn, almost in my High beds - share your experience. On the beds.

Discussion

pyramids? clear a square with sides of 2 m. remove turf. lay spanbod or similar economy material in the hole. Option - packaging cardboard. Fill with manure 10 - 15 cm, then - garden soil, humus, etc. in an asbestos-cement pipe D 100 mm (length - 50 -60 cm) (wood drill) poke 20 - 30 holes - 10 mm - throughout the body. Install the pipe in the middle of the platform. From an unedged board (width 10 - 15 cm) put together 3-4 square contours - each 20 cm smaller. The first floor of the pyramid is ready - lightly tamp, install the next contour - cover it with soil... and so on. water the pyramid through a pipe. if you do it now, generously pour a hurricane around the perimeter, etc., so that the weed doesn’t grow. As soon as it settles - after a week - add soil. If you're making strawberries, you can just stick the garlic in the corners. cover for the winter - roofing felt, polyethylene...

High beds. ...I find it difficult to choose a section. Cottage, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchasing, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs How to make raised beds, as efficiently as possible, because this year I want to buy land, manure and equip everything in a humane manner.

Discussion

uh, think about the irrigation system right away. water with raised beds it just goes nowhere :(all my strawberries have dried up due to almost daily watering :(

I don’t understand what raspberries have to do with it, especially frozen ones))). But about the beds: we made 2 types at the dacha: with a side made of boards and from brickwork. The boards must first be painted with some kind of antiseptic, the width is 20 cm, we made beds for strawberries and greens 20 cm high, everything is simple - the board is placed on its edge, the length -to choose from, width - 1 m. You fasten the boards together, you get a box - put some grass, branches on the bottom, then earth, manure, fertilizer, loosen. From brick treasures everything is more difficult, but more durable, we made 4 of them warm beds 1m x 1m, height 50 cm. At the bottom - waste, branches, grass, then fresh manure, then earth. It turns out to be such a warm pillow for pumpkins and zucchini. But the main thing is that in the spring such a bed warms up very early, we cover it with black film, the snow has melted, we cover it with transparent film and first plant the greenery around the perimeter, and then the zucchini. Highly recommend. And it’s convenient - you don’t have to bend over low. The outside of the brick was faced with stone, and it turned out beautifully.

Borders for garden beds are a practical and necessary fencing around them. The main purpose artificial walls around the beds - increasing the height of the fertile layer, which can easily be created by frequent mulching with compost soil after watering. Over time, the fence for the vegetable growing area has become an element landscape design. IN ornamental garden borders play the role of dividers and frames of areas in which cultivated plants grow.

The practical benefits of a fence for garden beds will be demonstrated already in the first season.

From an aesthetic point of view, places for planting seeds and seedlings of vegetable crops will look more well-groomed, noticeable, and expressive. They do not need to be periodically tidied up, deal with water leaks during irrigation, or maintain a horizontal plane on slopes.

From a practical point of view, there are also many benefits:

  • fenced vegetable plots will have significantly fewer weeds than uncultivated areas;
  • less physical effort will be required for manual weeding, digging, mulching, fertilizing and other work;
  • It is more convenient to cover such structures with film; on high fences it is easier to attach arcs for a greenhouse in order to plant seedlings of vegetables and flowers;
  • it is easier to do natural heating by creating a layered bed with biofuel for growing cucumbers, peppers and others vegetable plants, loving warmth.

Fenced vegetable plots will have significantly fewer weeds than uncultivated areas.

How to make a fence for garden beds with your own hands

There are certain requirements for the walls:

  • they should be low (height 10-30 cm) so as not to shade vegetable plants at the beginning of growth;
  • neat - emphasizing the straightness or irregular, but attractive shape of the beds;
  • dense - not allowing the fertile layer to spill onto the path or water to spread beyond the border of the zone for cultivating plants when watering;
  • beautiful to fit into the overall structure of landscaping of a summer cottage.

Fencing areas for growing vegetables can make a garden not only cozy, comfortable, well-groomed, but also original, maybe even unique.

The boxes with a thick fertile layer do not need to be dug up, so caring for the soil in them is the simplest - loosening with a hoe before planting seeds or seedlings.

On flower beds and flower beds, borders made from living plants of the same species (rosemary, calendula, boxwood, hyssop and other low-growing perennial flowers, planted densely in 2-3 rows) look impressive, attractive, and stylish. Fences for areas with vegetables are also constructed from artificial and improvised materials - bricks, boards or wooden beam, stones, sheet metal, plastic, sawn slate and other construction waste. They can always be collected in the required quantities from nearby abandoned areas or bought cheaply in stores. Many summer residents, when asked how to fence beds at their dacha inexpensively, answer unequivocally - with material from construction waste, cobblestones, a low picket fence and other items that can be found in construction dumps, on river shallows and in other places.

Borders for beds made of wood are simple, familiar, and natural. Simple - because any wooden products for a summer house are a good design option. They are easily fastened with nails, screws, and glue. The pieces of wood are easy to assemble and just as easy to disassemble for moving to a new location.

It’s common - because there are a lot of wooden buildings around us.


Borders for beds made of wood are simple, familiar, and natural.

Naturally - because trees grow everywhere.

A fence for beds made of stumps, low logs of equal thickness or low wattle fence looks original. Most often, wooden border material for beds is a cut and unedged board that forms a capacious box without a bottom, into which all the necessary raw materials are poured.

You can make a box from individual panels, which are assembled from slabs, picket fences, old floor slats, clapboards and other types of lumber.

The shields are placed next to each other and secured with stakes driven in from the outside. This design can be easily disassembled and reassembled in a new location.
Wooden objects can be treated with protective impregnations against rot and insects, which will increase its service life significantly.

Until recently, it was believed that wood was short-lived and therefore impractical. But now wooden objects can be treated with protective impregnations against rotting and insects, which will increase its service life significantly.

Considered a good option metal walls for boxes from worn sieves of the sieve mill of combine harvesters. Lightweight, strong, durable with many small holes for ventilation, they are easy to cut with tin snips into right size. Craftsmen who have welding machine, can easily weld a metal frame for a plant growing area from scrap metal from pieces sheet iron required thickness.

Nowadays, construction stores sell special multilayer galvanized steel sheets with a polymer coating. Its height is 17 centimeters, and its length varies. It is convenient to make spacious boxes from it. Although its price is not cheap, considering its durability, it is worth buying. Walls for areas with vegetables made from it will last a long time.


Metal fencing is easy to install.

Metal fencing is easy to install. Places for planting seeds and seedlings of vegetable plants, framed by them, look neat and beautiful (you can choose a professional sheet different colors), practical. But iron has a serious drawback - it is good thermal conductivity. The soil near the iron sides can heat up to a critical temperature, which will inhibit cultivated plants and dry out the soil. This disadvantage can be easily combated using any available means that have low thermal conductivity. You can line the inside of metal fences with cardboard, pieces of slate, and stones.

Plastic fence for places where seeds and seedlings of vegetable crops are planted, it has a number of advantages. It will be light, durable, frost-resistant, resistant to sunlight and shock loads. You can buy curb tape in the store, which has an optimal balance of rigidity, flexibility, and high ductility due to which it can be bent at any angle. It is easy to install with your own hands and supports the geometry of beds, flower beds, and lawns well. For stability, it is secured with pegs driven in on both sides.


A plastic fence for places where seeds and seedlings of vegetable crops are planted has a number of advantages.

DIY beds made from plastic bottles

Plastic bottles are a widely used material at hand. If desired, you can easily collect them in sufficient quantities. The bottles are filled with any bulk material: earth, sand, small crushed stone, and then simply placed close together in one or several rows, in a trench dug along the perimeter of the bed, neck down. From plastic bottles you can make a permanent fence for a place with cultivated plants, if they are laid horizontally on cement mortar. If you place plastic bottles on the beds with their bottoms facing out, the border will have an original appearance. multicolored look. With the help of a rich imagination, you can realize even better ideas for crafts from plastic bottles for the garden with your own hands.

Owners who have just completed construction brick house They will be able to make stationary fencing for vegetable planting areas with their own hands from leftover bricks. Framed by this building material beds and flower beds will look like a single ensemble with a residential building. Brick can be dug in different ways: on the edge at an angle; on edge in a row; The first row is flat, and on top of the solution the row is on edge. Decorative border made of brick largely depends on the imagination of the owners of the summer cottage.


A decorative brick border largely depends on the imagination of the owners of the summer cottage.

You can find plenty of stones anywhere: on a river, on hillsides, in gravel pits. There are many options for making permanent stone curbs. The simplest and affordable way- this is to fill the space between two mesh metal bars, dug around the perimeter of the box. Such a fence is called a pergon. In such a stone “bag” zucchini and tomatoes, cucumbers and beets will feel comfortable. Yes and others vegetable crops, which are grown in beds, will be comfortable inside a natural, environmentally friendly fence.


There are many options for making permanent stone curbs.

Wave slate fencing for garden beds

Wave slate, as a roofing material, has already gone out of fashion. It is everywhere replaced with corrugated sheets, different types of tiles, soft roof. But sheets of corrugated slate have become very popular among summer residents, who construct long-lasting, convenient, almost free fences and fences from pieces for areas where vegetables are grown. And if you decide: how to fence garden beds cheaply, then, perhaps, you won’t find a material cheaper than old wave slate. But first, the slate needs to be prepared for installation as a fence. Mark each sheet into pieces of the required size and saw them with a grinder. This work will not take much time. The process of fencing beds consists of the following steps:

  1. Marking the boundaries of future beds using strong twine and stakes driven into the corners. A trench 20-25 cm deep (on the bayonet of a shovel) is made along a stretched cord.
  2. Pieces of sawn slate of equal width are installed in the trench, leveled and slightly buried into the bottom of the trench by lightly tapping with a hammer.
  3. For the stability of a slate fence with outside stakes 0.5 m long are driven in to a depth of 30 cm. The result is a spacious box.
  4. For disinfection, the inside of the box is treated with slaked lime.
  5. The bottom of the box is lined with sawdust, dry grass and leaves. Then it is watered abundantly and fertile soil is poured on top.
  6. Next, you need to think about protecting the slate from direct sunlight, as it gets very hot in the sun and contributes to accelerated evaporation of moisture. If possible, slate walls should be watered more often. The buried part of the slate will become an insurmountable barrier against the attack of mole crickets.

It is not difficult to build multi-tiered flower beds and beds from wave slate, on the tiers of which you can grow flowers, strawberries and other plants. Or you can fence off a small area of ​​the garden in which to prepare compost from weeds and tops from vegetable crops.

The general procedure for constructing a border for beds made of any material

The height of the fence depends on the purpose of the garden bed, as well as on the ease of caring for the plants:

  • for fertile garden soil - 15 cm;
  • for infertile soil - up to 30 cm;
  • for potatoes and other nightshades - up to 40 cm;
  • for compost with bioheating - up to 50 cm.

The sequence of actions when making a border from improvised means;

  1. We are clearing space for a vegetable growing area. We mark its boundaries using a cord and pegs, focusing on straight sides and right angles.
  2. We construct a strong, rigid box from boards or other material. To fasten them together we use self-tapping screws and a screwdriver, welding or a trowel.
  3. We line the bottom of the fenced area with crushed stone, gravel, pieces of dishes, stones, and bricks for drainage. Then we spread leaves, hay, and fresh grass in an even layer.
  4. We pour the prepared fertile soil into the box and level it. There should be no weeds in it. There should be 3-5 cm from the top edge of the curb to the leveled layer of soil.
  5. We plant seeds or seedlings of vegetable plants. Mulch with chopped bark deciduous trees. The goal is to create optimal microclimate and moisture retention.
  6. If the box surrounds the lawn, then it is advisable to strengthen its bottom with a liquid blind area of ​​water, cement and sand. The layer is small - up to 3 cm. For strength and beauty, bricks can be laid with a gap of 1-2 cm on the hardened blind area. Pour dry sand-cement mixture into the spaces between the bricks.

Many summer residents are categorically against the use of those materials for fencing garden beds, which are abundant in cities and towns: metal, concrete, brick. It is necessary to make borders from natural flowers, grass, stones and wood. It’s hard to disagree with this, but we shouldn’t forget about practicality either. The main thing is that it is useful, not harmful, contributes to high yields and is pleasing to the eye! Let's also not forget about the durability of borders and the ease of caring for plants.

Many summer residents are interested in the topic of whether to fence their beds. Those landowners who have fairly dense soil on their property and it does not crumble rarely fence off their beds. Simply, when creating them, the earthen sides are nailed tightly with a shovel. This work is quite labor-intensive; making neat sides of the bed is not easy; dexterity, experience and physical strength are required. Then weeds will begin to grow on the sides, and weeding them takes a lot of time. What if you spend some time once and build attractive fences for your garden beds with your own hands? Let's see what kind of bumpers there are and how far this idea has taken root among the people.

Is it worth it to “fence the garden”?

In recent years, the so-called “new summer residents” have appeared, promoting modern trends in summer cottage science. Some people form their beds not with a mound, but, on the contrary, with a small depression, while others plant garden crops according to a complex scheme - combining certain plants in one bed. And someone has already blocked off their plot with neat rectangles - garden borders made of modern materials.

I must say that this was not invented yesterday. Even in the last century, gardeners made borders for their beds, but mostly from boards. What's wrong with this method? Firstly, the boards for edging are not taken new, they are not bought in construction stores, but used ones are used: from old buildings, slabs, sleepers. Accordingly, these boards very soon become unusable. They rot, crumble, and bugs live in them. Frequent watering quickly deteriorates wooden sides. If you want to edge your beds, use another material that is resistant to constant dampness.

Important:

Wooden boards are completely unsuitable for edging beds. Plant pests live in them: aphids, mites, as well as fungus and mold.

Slate, iron, brick and stone: which is better?

The main requirement for bed borders is resistance to dampness, because in summer watering is done every day. In addition to old boards, borders made from other improvised materials came from the last century: fragments of slate, concrete blocks, bricks and metal sheets. Of course, these materials are more durable and safer than wood, but they are not always aesthetically pleasing. Let's look at the pros and cons of the most popular "fences".

Slate

Slate advantages:

  1. Free, since it is usually removed from the roof when replacing it.
  2. Conditionally durable. Lasts longer than wood, but less than other materials. That part of the slate that is dug into the ground darkens and becomes brittle over time, that is, it collapses.
  3. Looks neat.

Disadvantages of slate:

  1. There is information that slate contains harmful substances.
  2. Fragile. If accidentally hit with a shovel, the slate edge will easily crack.

Tree

Since wooden borders are still popular, let's take a look at them. Wooden sides in a dacha are good because they naturally and harmoniously blend into the surrounding nature. The most durable are square thick bars laid in two rows on top of each other (photo below right). This simple design is easy to build with your own hands. You can sit on the top edge of the block when weeding. To make such a fence last longer, be sure to impregnate it with a protective compound.

Brick and stone

The edging of the beds can be made of brick, white or red. You probably shouldn’t buy bricks specifically for this purpose, but use old ones. The technique of laying bricks used to be like this: the bricks were simply dug into the ground. It turned out to be a rather shaky structure. If you like the idea of ​​brick sides, it is better to do the masonry by cementing the bricks together. This border will last a long time. The stonework is very picturesque and attractive. It is better to use flat stones, placing them on top of each other and fastening them with mortar.

Polycarbonate

Greenhouses and greenhouses are built from polycarbonate. It has a matte hard texture that is resistant to impacts, fire (polycarbonate products do not burn, only melt), and atmospheric conditions. Polycarbonate is a durable, reliable and expensive material. Of course, it’s unlikely that sides are made from polycarbonate; greenhouses are covered with it. But there are beds in greenhouses, so we will also classify polycarbonate as fencing.

garden board

Initially, this product was intended for fencing flower beds and flower beds, but vegetable growers also appreciated it garden board. Its bright summer colors, ease of installation, and durability of the plastic from which it is made are attracting more and more fans of country aesthetics, as you can see by looking at the photo below.

This is perhaps the easiest type of fencing to install with your own hands. I unrolled the roll and edged the bed (pictured). Advantages of the tape: strong, light, bright, stylish, durable. Cons: if the tape is made of cheap plastic, it will crack in the cold, so it is better to put it indoors for the winter.

Mobile fencing for garden beds

Opponents of fencing insist that the beds should not be stationary, they should be laid every year in different places and at different angles to the sun. For such summer residents there is a way out - mobile bumpers. You can make them yourself. A sheet of metal profile is taken and cut into wide stripes, and wooden pegs are screwed onto the sides with self-tapping screws. The pegs are stuck into the ground, and the profile is level with the ground. The sides are removed for the winter. True, where can I get so many profiles... But as an idea, it’s great.

We talked about different types borders for garden beds. Which one is better? There are so many summer residents, so many opinions. Many people believe that in nature there is no need for metal and concrete; this is enough in the city, but in the countryside let there be grass, flowers and natural materials. What do you think?

Having even a small plot of land, it is so difficult to resist planting something that will subsequently grow and bear fruit. Summer residents know the wonderful feeling when you cut a salad from vegetables grown with your own hands, and make jam from freshly picked strawberries! Even if small, there were, are and will be garden beds on the plot. Usually the owner does not think too much about the design of the plantings, so the fences for the beds are made from available material, and they look simple. However, who doesn’t want to make the site beautiful and well-groomed? In addition, useful edges help the beds keep their shape, save water, and prevent the growth of weeds.

The edges around the perimeter of the beds give them a neat and civilized appearance. Convenient when seating areas various plants demarcated. There is order everywhere, which does not need to be restored “from scratch” after every heavy rain. You can simply maintain it, spending a minimum of effort on care, watering, etc. Fences are usually made from leftover building materials.

Wood: elegant, but short-lived

Boards as fencing can be called a classic, often found option. Depending on the amount that the owner of the site intends to spend on resolving this issue, timber and picket fence, clapboard or slab can be used. The use of any wood will be appropriate. Even the branches left after pruning trees will find use.

For some time, such a fence will look very elegant. In the future, the wood may turn black and even become covered with fungus. Trying to whitewash the sides is ineffective because the whitewash will quickly be washed away by rain. The situation is even worse with paint: it cracks and peels off. It won’t even be able to solve the problem radically. After a few years, the dull sides will have to be replaced, because soil begins to spill out through the cracks formed.

Neat wooden sides give the beds a well-groomed and attractive appearance. At the same time, the most different wood: a wattle fence made from cut hazel branches looks very good and is inexpensive

Neat and expensive brick

Diagonal bricks were once in vogue. At one time, even city flower beds were edged this way. If you try, the teeth of the border will look neat and uniform. Such a fence can be whitewashed or even painted. AND garden paths, and the flower beds will receive reliable but expensive borders. After all, an old brick will not make the desired impression, but a new one can cost a decent amount.

Bricks can be installed not only diagonally, but also laid out in rows, the height of which depends on the parameters of the bed or flowerbed that is to be fenced

Slate under control

Slate is now used less and less for its intended purpose - as a roofing material. If pieces of it remain after changing the covering, then they can be used for edging the beds. At one time, it was actively and widely used for these purposes too.

If anyone else is planning to throw it away old slate or put it in a barn for eternal storage, then let him admire these wonderful beds. After all, you can build such beauty yourself for practically nothing.

A slate edge will look neat if you simply press it into the ground so that aboveground part it rose to the same height along the entire perimeter. Slate can be broken into plates of the desired width. Covered with a layer of paint, it will even look elegant. The only negative is that thin slate will need to be kept under control and, in case of distortions after heavy rains, corrected.

A stone given by nature

Not only pieces of flat slate, but also various cobblestones look very impressive as a side. Of course, this is not a brick with a given shape once and for all. Here you will have to try, selecting stones according to size, combining them with each other and fastening them with cement mortar. But the result will be very impressive. This is a very aesthetic and, at the same time, durable fencing. The only drawback of this fence is that the heavy side can begin to settle into the ground under its own weight. Therefore, you also need to monitor his condition.

You will have to work hard with natural stone, but now you will see such beauty every day: the aesthetic pleasure is incomparable

These materials are truly traditional, we are used to seeing them on personal plots. But time does not stand still. New products appear, and old materials, whose price was unreasonably high, become more affordable. Let's consider modern options fencing.

Bed fences made of plastic

Plastic withstands seasonal temperature changes well, it is not hygroscopic and is not affected by precipitation.

Installing ready-made sides

The plastic fence is easy to install, easy to remove and replace. Such a fence, taking into account its affordability, can be considered ideal for small beds or flower beds. Plastic fencing for beds of different shapes, they are good because they can fully correspond to the design of the site chosen by the owner. Sides can be selected according to color scheme and in height.

Plastic is not hygroscopic, it almost does not react to natural phenomena, does not rot and does not burn. At the same time, it can look whatever its owner wants

If the gardener desires, you can choose a border that imitates wood, brick, or even natural stone. Both sectional and continuous fencing look great. Thanks to the legs, these fences can be easily fixed to the ground. There are also those for the installation of which special nails are used.

Border tape: affordable and simple

The most affordable border tape for garden beds is a tape-type fence with a corrugated surface, green or brown in color.

The advantages of curb tape are obvious:

  • it is easy to install;
  • it can be given the desired shape without cutting it into pieces;
  • they look very aesthetically pleasing;
  • The size of the tape is easily adjusted.

To install such a fence, you need a minimum of tools: a large stapler, scissors, a tape measure and a dustpan. The entire fencing process will not take much time. You should dig around the selected area, using a shovel to make a trench around its perimeter. We measure the required size of the tape and fasten its ends with a stapler. We place the fence in the trench at the selected depth, after which we fill the lower part of the tape with earth and compact it well.

A nice and laconic fencing made from border tape can be installed literally within an hour, and it will serve you for more than one season

If the curb length is significant, it is necessary to fix the position of the tape with pegs, which are alternately placed in front of the tape and behind it at an equal distance from each other.

Rubber curbs are laid using the same principle. Only for high beds such a side will not be suitable, because it is placed very low. Polycarbonate is also used as a material for fencing, the trimmings of which remain, for example, after making a canopy or building a greenhouse. But polycarbonate fencing for garden beds is rarely used, since it is not profitable to purchase material specifically for this purpose, and there is never a lot of scraps.

The rubber border is almost invisible, but it helps to give certain areas of the garden clear outlines, creates a kind of order, and properly organizes the space

How to use plastic bottles?

If you have to fence a lot of beds with plastic, the costs will inevitably increase. This is where people's ingenuity comes to the rescue. You can make a fencing for garden beds with your own hands, for example. That's when the plastic bottles we've accumulated come in handy!

The use of plastic bottles for fencing garden beds is a real triumph of universal justice. It’s not for nothing that you have accumulated them at home: it seems that you don’t need them, but it’s a pity to throw them away

You need to select bottles of the same volume; you can fill them with sand and place them upside down in the same trench that we prepared for the curb. If you cover the plastic with water-based paint, you will get a very bright border. However, it also looks good without paint.

The best options for metal fencing

Metal fences, often used for garden beds, look easy to install and, at first glance, very reliable. If you take for this purpose the remains of simple metal, up to 1 mm thick, then you will really get a border quickly, but it will not be so easy to make: thin plates are unstable and can be cut. And this side will not last long, because metal in the soil quickly rusts, and such a thin one will turn into dust very quickly. In the summer heat, metal overheated in the sun will actively transfer heat to the soil, which has a detrimental effect on plants.

The polymer coating gives galvanized steel completely new properties. It looks even more attractive and does not get too hot in the sun

Galvanized steel with a polymer coating is much more aesthetically pleasing and promising. Boxes made from this material have a neat and attractive appearance. This material has proven itself well in different climatic conditions. Lightweight plates allow you to easily change the shape and size of the structure. The only, but expected, drawback for such material is its price. The expensive material is still in short supply, as demand for it outstrips supply.

More fencing ideas are presented in the video.

This neat and compact design when disassembled is made of galvanized metal. The finished box is easy to assemble and disassemble. If it is necessary to increase the size, the sides can be increased. The height of a single-tier border is 17cm. Stiffening ribs on the fencing elements give it additional strength. Manufacturers claim that such curbs will last at least 20 years.

Not everyone likes coming to the dacha to do physical labor. But such beds, even in an office worker tired of paperwork, can cause a surge of work enthusiasm

If it seems to you that the beds can be used without fencing, then you are, of course, right. But those who use borders have already seen how much easier and more effective plant care has become. And the end result of your efforts – the harvest – will help you finally believe in their necessity.