The dimensions of a brick stove for a bathhouse will depend primarily on the size of the room. You also need to take into account the number of visitors who will be in the bathhouse. You should know that some stoves are used not only to heat the steam room, but also for cooking or heating the room.

Drawing up a design for a stove for a bath

Almost impossible to find finished project stoves for a bath, which completely suits the owner. Therefore, some changes will need to be made to the order. You will need to carefully consider each of the rows of bricks; at the end, the order of the sauna stove should be shown to a specialist.

If even the slightest changes have been made, it is still recommended to consult. The stove in the bathhouse must be safe, so you need to get advice from an experienced specialist.

The project must be adjusted taking into account some of the features of laying a bath stove:

1. The firebox in the heater is in most cases large. To ensure an acceptable combustion process, you will need to arrange the correct air flow. Therefore, the vent and the corresponding door must also be of decent size.
2. To obtain a strong flow of air into the firebox chamber, the grate bars must be laid along the ash channel. Find the grate required sizes very difficult, because it may be necessary to install several small gratings across the blower.
3. If the heater is located above the firebox, the height of the firebox should be more than 55 cm. The structure should consist of 8-9 rows of bricks so that the stones can heat up to a temperature of approximately 800°C. If you reduce the height of the firebox, this may not help accelerate the heating of the structure, but lower the temperature of the stones and the appearance of soot between them.
4. If wooden structures are not protected by fire-resistant materials, then the distance to the stove should be more than 30 cm.
5. Before laying bricks on a mixture of clay and sand, it is recommended to lay them dry. You need to start from one of the corners. Bricks must be of such dimensions that the width of the joints is less than 5 mm. Only after this can the bricks be laid on the masonry mixture.
6. In the process of laying each row, it must be checked for horizontalness and verticality. This can be done using a level. The accuracy of the angles is checked by mounted plumb lines. It is important to make adjustments even in the case of minimal deviations.
7. During the installation of the doors, they will need to be securely fastened. All doors in places where they are adjacent to bricks must be wrapped with asbestos cement cord or asbestos strip. They are secured in place using wire or strips of steel that are secured at the seams. To perform a reliable fastening, special recesses must be made under the wire in the bricks.
8. You should pay attention to the place where the pipe from the stove passes through the ceiling structure or wall. In this place, the pipe must be insulated with basalt wool or other materials that can withstand high temperatures.
9. To prepare the masonry mixture, you should use only high-quality clay. The sand should be fine-grained and sifted through a sieve.

Diagram of the foundation for a stove in a bathhouse: 1 – crushed stone base, 2 – underground part of the masonry, 3 – upper cut, 4 – waterproofing layer, 5 – stove masonry.

A project for a sauna stove in which the water heating tank is attached to the heater and is heated by heat transfer from the chimney structure. This design It is small in size and very easy to make.

The container for the heater with dimensions of 53x51x50 cm is made of steel with a thickness of 8-10 mm. The water tank can be made from a pipe with a diameter of 40 cm. A frame welded from metal corners will be used as a supporting structure for the heater. For the water tank you will need to make a sliding support.

The heater has a lid through which you can lay stones and supply water. So that the stones can heat up to more high temperatures, the lid will need to be closed. If you need to lower the temperature of the stones, the lid should be opened. After installation on the sheathing, the stove must be lined with bricks, which are installed on the edge.

Another project for a sauna stove with a closed heater and a water tank, which is located in the side of the structure.

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Ordering a stove for a brick bath

A continuous stove can heat a medium-sized steam room. Stones can be loaded into a closed structure only after the brick kiln has completely dried.

The main advantage of this design is the ability to organize ventilation or drying of the space under the floor. To do this you will need to use an ordinary corrugated hose.

To make a brick oven, you will need to prepare the following elements:

• refractory brick (700 pcs);
• fireclay bricks (40 pcs);
• sand (approximately 30 buckets);
• clay (about 15 buckets);
• 2 doors for the stove;
• 2 ash doors;
• 2 doors for cleaning;
• 2 grates;
• 2 dampers;
• metal corner 30x30 mm;
• hob;
• container for stones;
• ordering a sauna stove.

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Sequence of actions for laying a stove for a bath

The stone cabinet can be made from of stainless steel— only this material can withstand temperatures of 800°C.

To give the furnace a spike of rigidity, it will be necessary to additionally weld stiffening ribs onto the side bases.

The laying of the furnace begins from the zero row. IN in this case a ventilation duct is formed. It is important to strictly follow the brick placement pattern. During the laying process, the horizontal and verticality of all rows is checked, and the correctness of the angles must also be monitored.

The damper will need to be installed in the third row. The construction of ash pits for several fireboxes also begins here. After this, you need to install doors on them. In the next row, the damper should be blocked by a transversely placed channel for clearing soot. After this you will need to install a door on it.

The blower doors close in the fifth row. Jumpers are also installed in it for the transition to the construction of the firebox. The thickness of the steel for the jumpers is 3 mm. In the next row it will be necessary to divide the shafts; for this, several grates are installed. The shaft must be lined with fireclay bricks using a masonry mixture. It will be necessary to cut a recess under the gratings in the bricks so that there is a gap left for thermal expansion (8-10 mm on all sides). Afterwards, independent chimney channels are formed; for this purpose, strips of steel are laid.

In the next row, the brick is placed on a spoon. After this, the firebox doors are installed, the chimney channels do not change. In this case, you will also need to install firebox doors. The next row is similar to the previous one. At this stage, the doors are lined, after which they are covered with strips of metal on which the bricks will rest.

Then the doors are closed with bricks at the top; to do this, they need to be sawed down. Above one shaft it will be necessary to lay a slab platform; above the other shaft, fireclay bricks are laid exclusively on the short sides of the firebox. After installing the container for stones, the chimney channels will be located at this location.

Next, a metal box is installed, after which one of the channels of the chimney structure is laid. The next two rows are identical, after which the soot cleaning door is installed. Afterwards you will need to add several metal jumpers over the main shaft.

Then the chimney shaft should be divided into several channels, metal lintels are fixed above the slab, which will be used as a base for bricks of other rows. The next few rows are no different. After this, the chimney door is installed. Then you need to install jumpers with reverse side stoves that will serve as the base of the ceiling.

In the next row, chimney channels are installed. After this, the fuel shafts are narrowed. At this stage, the shaft in which the stone container is installed will be completely blocked. Next, you will need to block another shaft. In the 27th row a chimney is laid out.

If you are in the Arkhangelsk region, be sure to go to the local bathhouse. This is something special, unique and very original. The stove for the bathhouse is made of brick in Arkhangelsk, made using a special method.

In the local bathhouse, they don’t steam with brooms, but build up the heat and rub the body with honey infused with herbs and berries, which Pomors collect at a strictly designated time. They rub themselves with this mixture and sit in the steam room for an hour, and then they come out and seem to be born again.

It was from here, from the White Sea, that the saying came - “The bathhouse heals, the bathhouse rules, the bathhouse puts you on your feet.” And for this you need a special stove for the bathhouse.

Usually such a furnace is heated for several hours. There are stories in the literature when the brick stove in the bathhouse was heated from early morning until the end of mass in the church. And only then did they go into it to warm themselves.

Only pine wood was used, as it gives off a special smell. Well, after several hours of calcination of the stove, the air is filled with phytoncides from pine and becomes medicinal. But for such a procedure, a special stove in the bathhouse is needed to withstand such heating.

What brick to use for a bathhouse in Arkhangelsk

If earlier bricks were formed by hand and double or even triple hardening were especially valued, now fireclay (fireproof brick) is used instead. A brick sauna stove must be very voluminous in order to accumulate heat from such a long fire.

Therefore, you need to choose a special brick for its cladding - a brand no lower than M-250. It is also suitable for lining a furnace, and withstands heating and cooling cycles perfectly. In addition, today I’ll tell you two more tricks with which your sauna stove will become even more original and more reliable in operation.

Step 1 prepare the material and workplace

The bathhouse in which we will install this “Pomeranian” stove is made according to the principle of three rooms.

1. Steam room
2. Washing department
3. Restroom.

The stove in the bathhouse will be heated from the rest room. Her glass door will act as a fireplace. The water in the bath, under the action of a pump, is pumped through a special compartment in the stove, through a special device and heated.

Number of bricks for the stove

The total quantity of bricks for the stove is 1200 pieces of ceramic, 120 pieces of fireclay (fireproof) and 150 pieces of silicate for the pipe.

Mix for laying a brick oven

The masonry of the main part of the furnace will be made using a conventional furnace mixture that can withstand temperatures up to 350 degrees. The firebox, chimneys and air ducts use a stove mixture with increased heat resistance. Such a mixture can withstand up to 1000 degrees of heating, although traditional ovens With natural circulation the air cannot be at that temperature.

On the wall between the steam room and the relaxation room, we draw vertical lines along a plumb line and saw through the opening using a chain saw.

Cuts in the wall for a brick bath

We cut the walls. The saw must be held slightly upward with the guide bar. This way it better picks up the beginning of the cut, pulls the saw down and it follows the line, literally under its own weight. If you tilt the shredder downwards, away from you, then you have to put pressure on the saw and there is a possibility that you will go away from the vertical sawing.

The peculiarity of walls made of rounded logs is that there is no insulation between the logs, which significantly impedes such work by being wound around a chain or on a feed sprocket.

Pay attention to the translation logs under the bathhouse floor. They are red. Don't be surprised - this change in wood color occurred under the influence of an antiseptic. All wooden structural elements that are located below floor level or in conditions with poor ventilation are best coated with a similar solution. Especially if you are not building a structure from dried wood, or wood felled in spring or summer.

We cut right down to the very last log; our task is to start building the stove in the bathhouse, from the very base of the log.

Step 2 - Making the foundation and laying out the base of the oven

Any stove in a brick bathhouse must be installed on a solid foundation; previously, similar structures were placed on the Kremlin part of the pine tree (the lower part above the root). It was very twisted, tarred and immersed in the ground and could withstand several decades.

An example of this is “KIZHI”. Today, all stoves are placed on a concrete pad, poured and reinforced according to a typical pattern. Concrete is prepared at a ratio of 1:3:1

cement: gravel: sand

The pillow is reinforced with a reinforcing bar with a diameter of at least 12 mm, laid according to the principle of a square with a side of 10 cm. The thickness of the pillow is at least 30 cm.

We deepen the base of the pillow by at least 30 cm. The weight of the stove is almost three and a half tons, and therefore it must be securely fixed.

We make formwork, preferably from edged roofing boards, measuring one by one meter. We make formwork in the pit to the full depth of digging. The formwork boards do not need to be removed in the future.

Fundamental, furnace work- This is a very dirty process, so cover the floor of the bathhouse with plastic wrap. It’s better to do it reinforced, it will definitely withstand to the end construction work and protects the floor from stove dirt.

To prevent the wall logs from “walking” at the cut site, we tighten them using vertical boards wrapped with basalt cardboard for thermal insulation.

We begin laying out the stove in a brick bathhouse from the foundation. We lay the first row on the wall foundation and join it to the main one.

Laying the foundation

The width of the stove is 75 cm (three bricks), and the cut is approximately 100 cm, so the masonry will be easy and in the future the stove will be safe for a wooden bathhouse.

The main task of the furnace base is to ensure the evenness of the site for the construction of the furnace, so we “drive out” all the unevenness with mortar and help a little by crushing thick masonry seams.

Lay out the base, leveling it with the solution.

Thick seams have to be crushed with chipped bricks; they are on the right in the photo.

Step 3 lay out the oven

After cement mortar on which the bricks were planted at the base of the stove, we covered it with roofing felt for waterproofing. Then we proceed to laying the starting row of the furnace.

Lay out the starting row. They start it on the facade of the stove.

On the second row we install an air duct system to supply oxygen to the furnace firebox.

This is a “summer” move to increase air flow and enhance the convection of the oven.

Installing the oven door

We install a door to regulate the air supply.

All furnace fittings will be placed in grooves sawn into the brick. This increases the service life of cast iron products and simplifies the installation process.

We pre-prepare the bricks, groove them so that the grate fits firmly into the groove.

We install the grate in place, pay attention to the routing of the air ducts. Under the grate is the main air supply duct. But in the summer it is not enough when lighting the stove and it smokes. This is why the “letnik” exists - he is on the right, he comes to his aid.

After this, we begin to prepare the furnace fire door for installation. We need to make it as airtight as possible. Self-adhesive heat-resistant cords are very convenient for this purpose.

Such a cord is glued to the base of any part of the fittings for a brick stove, and serves as an excellent insulator of the connection, both from smoke and from compression shifts when the iron expands. For heating and cooling, the manufacturer claims a guarantee of up to 50 years of operation! It comes in round and flat shapes and is made of basalt.

We fasten such a cord around the perimeter of the firebox door; it is better to make it in several rows.

We screw the door with a twist of steel wire to the stove tape to fix it in the stove masonry.

We secure the door to the masonry using the lower strips of tape and fix its vertical position on the masonry.

We make the combustion chamber of the furnace

We make the combustion chamber of the furnace from fireclay bricks. Please note that on the right the “letnik” continues. If at the bottom it played the role of an additional air duct, then at this height it will increase the convection currents in the oven.

We raise the rows of firebox masonry. Be sure to make sure that there is an air gap of at least half a brick between it and the wall.

At this stage we will use a little trick:

We will place flexible corrugated stainless steel pipes in the airbox for the water heating system for washing.

Here is a basic heat exchanger - a water heater. Water flowing through it heats up and is supplied hot at the outlet to the sink. The cuts are made under metal-plastic pipe with a cross section of 20 mm.

But it is necessary to take into account that the water will not be running all the time, so our task is to make sure that this system did not burst from expansion of water when heated. Therefore, we place it not in combustion chamber, as in big bath complexes, and in “letnik”.

A method for fixing a stove tape with a bend and screwing a self-tapping screw into a masonry seam.

This is how the heat exchanger (water heater) will be safe.

Making an overlap

We make it in a slightly tricky way without metal corners, which are sure to become deformed from prolonged heating. Therefore, we lay the flooring with a partial overlap. To prevent the bricks from falling, we press them down until we lay out the next row. This operation requires some skill and should definitely be done only with a partner.

We leave no more than ¼ of a brick to be cut for the summer draft, and we make the entire volume of the furnace higher up the masonry not hollow but solid.

The ceiling has a partial overlap, vertically placed bricks do not give the bricks a base to fall, then, when the strapping is inserted and the mortar sets, everything will be like a single monolith.

Water heater pipe outlet

The outlet of the water heater pipes, in places where the pipe is in the masonry, is additionally wrapped with asbestos thread.

On the 19th row of the front part of the masonry of our stove, we install an additional door; it will be useful to us when the stove in the bathhouse is heated. By opening it, we let heated air into the room. Inside the oven, above this door, the “letnik” ends.

We adjust the verticality of the masonry by lightly tapping with a rubber mallet.

We do not do fine finishing of the stove masonry. We leave a little solution on it; we will need it for one oven trick.

While the furnace wall is being laid out, the assistants are preparing the chimney from sandwiches. I described in more detail how and why it is flared in “stove tricks”. Therefore, I will not dwell on this in detail.

That's the stove-makers' trick :

To give your stove individuality, you can “age” it a little or give the brick a nobility, as you like. You will need a grinder and a ceramic cutting wheel

We give a decent appearance to brick

Using a sander that has not been cleaned of solution, we try to clean off the deposits using light pressure. It is partially removed from such influence, and partially pressed into the brick. It is very effective if you throw Xerox paint (fine coal dust) onto the masonry. In this case, the brick really ages and the autumn looks spectacular!

When the work on aging the brick is completed, we proceed to install the view on the pipe.

We attach a basalt cord, which in the masonry will act as a sealant and sealant at the same time.

Installing the view

The view and pipe casing will be in the steam room.

By the way, in the steam room we also don’t forget to age the brick, this will give it a special look. This color and surface texture is very reminiscent of hand-molded Belgian oven bricks. It is very rare in Russia and is very expensive, so you can easily say that the brick was brought to you by special order from Belgium.

Look how the Arkhangelsk style brick bathhouse turned out! - you'll just fall in love!

This process is very time-consuming. On average, one wall takes up to five hours of work. But it's worth it.

In addition, be sure to protect the walls from settling dust, which will be a lot during this work. The easiest way is to cover them with plastic wrap, or you can do it simpler. Using a garden sprayer, lightly spray the stove with water. There will be much less dust, and the colors will be even more interesting, just do not overdo it with pressure on the brick; with strong pressure, the pattern will turn out unnatural and very heterogeneous.

But there is a way out of this situation. If you feel that the result is unnatural and pretentious, simply attach a sanding whisk attachment to a powerful drill. metal surfaces and go through the oven again. In a word, FANTASY!

And remember that it is not the Gods who burn the pots. Even the most experienced master once built his first and very ugly stove in a bathhouse, but he tried, and he succeeded, try and you will succeed too! Enjoy Your Bath!

The size of a brick stove for a bath depends primarily on the area of ​​the steam room; the number of people who will regularly steam is also taken into account. Whether the sauna is seasonal or not, it will be used for heating and cooking, or only for heating the steam room.

Projects of brick stoves for baths

It is very rare to find a ready-made brick oven project that you are 100% satisfied with. We have to modify and redo the finished order. In this case, make the necessary adjustments, drawing each row of bricks in detail, and show the corrected order to a specialist.

Even if even minor changes have been made, consultation is highly recommended. The stove in the bathhouse must be safe, therefore the opinion of a competent specialist is very important.

When adjusting the project, you need to remember several features of laying brick kilns:

• The firebox in heaters is usually made of a large size and to ensure a normal combustion process it is necessary to ensure a good flow of air. Therefore, the blower and the blower door must also be of decent size.
• To ensure a good flow of air into the fuel chamber, it is better to lay the grate bars along the blower channel. But finding a grate of the required size is often problematic, so you often have to install several grates of shorter length across the ash pit.
• If the heater is located above the firebox, the height of the firebox must be at least 55cm. The best option– 8 or 9 rows of bricks. In this case, they will heat up to high temperatures. Reducing the height of the firebox will not lead to faster heating, but to a decrease in the temperature of the stones and the accumulation of soot in the spaces between them.
• If wooden structures are not protected by fireproof materials, then the distance to the brick oven cannot be less than 30 cm.
• Before laying bricks on a clay-sand mortar (information about the mortar is available in the article), lay them dry according to plan, starting from one of the corners, pick up the bricks suitable size so that the width of the seams does not exceed 5mm. And only then lay it on the solution.
• After laying each row, it is checked for verticality and horizontality using a building level. The accuracy of the angles can be checked using installed plumb lines. Correct even minimal deviations.
• When installing the doors, laying begins from it, fixing it tightly. All doors in those places where they are adjacent to bricks are pre-wrapped with asbestos cord or asbestos strip. They are held in place using wire or steel strips secured at the seams. For a more rigid fixation, grooves are cut in the bricks under the wire.
• Particular attention should be paid to the place where the pipe from the brick kiln passes through the ceiling, roof or wall. In this place, the pipe must be insulated with basalt wool or other heat insulators that can withstand high temperatures.

The video shows how to attach the ash and fire doors, as well as the process of preparing a clay solution.

Here is a project for a sauna stove, in which the water heating tank is adjacent to the heater and is additionally heated by heat transfer from the chimney. This oven has small sizes and is easy to manufacture.

The container for the heater measuring 530x510x500 mm is made of steel 8-10 mm thick, the water tank is made of a pipe with a diameter of 40 cm (capacity about 50 liters). The support for the heater is a frame welded from corners (take a corner 50x50 mm); a sliding support is made for the water tank.

The heater has a lid through which stones are placed and water is supplied. To heat the stones to higher temperatures, close the lid, and if you need to lower their temperature, open it. After installation on the frame, the heater is covered with bricks placed on its edge.

Here is also a small brick stove for a bath with a closed heater and a water tank located on the side.

The procedure for this stove is simple and does not require a lot of time and materials.

Ordering a sauna stove

This oven is not very small. A continuous stove designed by Anatoly Zabolotny can heat a steam room for 4 people. Stones can be loaded into a closed heater only after the stove has completely dried.

Continuous stoves can be heated while people are in the steam room - they are designed in such a way that combustion products do not enter the room.

The main attractive feature of this stove is the ability to organize ventilation/drying of the underground space. What is a regular corrugated hose used for?

To lay this stove you need 700 pcs of stove bricks, 40 pcs of fireclay, about 30 buckets of sand, 15 buckets of clay (12 liter bucket). 2 pieces each for oven doors, vent doors and cleanout doors. 2 grates and 2 valves are also required, and metal corner 30x30, cut into pieces of 50cm (9 pieces) and 35cm (2 pieces). You will also need a panel with one burner and a cabinet for stones.

The cabinet for stones is made of stainless steel - only it can withstand temperatures up to 800 o C, to which stones can be heated in this oven. To give the heater greater rigidity, additional stiffening ribs are welded onto the side surfaces.

You need to lay this oven from the base-zero row, in which the formation begins ventilation duct. Strictly follow the layout of the bricks, checking the verticality and horizontality of each row and monitoring the correctness of the angles.

The damper is installed in the 3rd row. The formation of ash pits of two independent fireboxes immediately begins and doors are installed on them. In the next 4th, the damper is blocked by a transversely located channel for clearing soot. A door is installed on it in the same row.

The ash door closes in the 5th. Jumpers are immediately installed to proceed to the formation of the butt. The thickness of the metal for the jumpers is 3 mm. In the next row, the shaft is divided, for which two grates are installed. The firebox shaft is lined with fireclay bricks using a special mortar. Under the grates, a recess is cut out in the bricks in such a way that there is a gap for the thermal expansion of the grates (6-10 mm on each side). Independent chimney channels begin immediately, for which strips of metal are also laid.

In the 7th row, the fireclay brick is installed on a spoon (sideways), the firebox doors are installed, and the chimney ducts are not changed. The firebox doors are installed at the same time. The 8th row is similar to the previous one, we cover the doors. Next, they are covered with metal strips on which the floor bricks will rest.

In the 10th, the doors at the top are closed with bricks, for which they are filed if necessary, depending on the shape. After completing the 11th row, a slab platform is laid over one shaft, and on the other, fireclay bricks are laid only on the short sides of the firebox. After installing the container for stones, there will be chimney channels here.

In the 12th row, a metal box for stones is installed, one of the chimney channels is laid. The next two rows are unchanged, and only in the 15th row is a soot cleaning door installed. Next, in the 16th, two metal jumpers are added above the main shaft.

In the 17th, the chimney shaft is again divided into two channels (as in the 5th), and two metal lintels are fixed above the slab, which will serve as the basis for the bricks of the next row. The next two are unchanged, and only in the 18th is a chimney door added, and in the 19th are jumpers installed on the other side of the stove, which will serve as the basis for its final covering and the formation of the furnace roof.

Row 21 is similar to row 12, but there are chimney ducts. The next two rows there is a narrowing of the fuel shafts, and in 24 the shaft where the container for stones is installed is completely blocked.

This small brick sauna stove is very simple and economical. It is suitable for small steam rooms.

The procedure is very simple for her. It has a relatively light weight, and provided the log is sufficiently thick and fire safety measures are observed, it can be folded without a foundation.

In fact, as many bathhouses as there are probably as many furnace designs - each owner tries to make the most of the available space, so changes and adjustments are practically necessary. If you have even a little experience working with bricks and mortar, you can easily build a brick oven yourself. But if you are not confident in your abilities, then you should think about inviting an experienced stove maker, at least as a consultant. This can save you a lot of money: remodeling the stove and eliminating flaws often costs much more than laying the stove in a new way.

In many cases, it is easier to install a metal stove (for example) and.

What kind of bathhouse it should be depends mainly on the stove in it. According to tradition, a Russian bathhouse should have a brick stove, which replaced the more ancient stone one. And many owners of baths under construction or built a long time ago are trying to install one of these - after all, this is a thing that has been tested for centuries. But how to assess the scale of the effort, time and finances associated with the construction of a brick stove for a bathhouse?

We want to help you - read and consider whether you can handle it yourself or still look for a professional, or is it easier to abandon this idea in favor of a brick-lined metal stove, which, if handled skillfully, can produce the same conditions as a brick one ?

Brick sauna stoves: history

The historical moment is also important: understanding how the Russian bathhouse develops can point to the most significant things in it.

The first stoves were simply made of stone, they didn’t even put it on the mortar - pile of stones over a fire, roughly speaking. AND there was no pipe— the smoke spread throughout the hut (yes, the bathhouse was made right in the hut, no outbuildings, it was also heated) and flowed out of the windows and doors. Until the 15th century, such baths were the most common in Rus'.

Brick sauna stove

The first innovation was, after all, a pipe, but made made of wood, it often became the cause of fire (the reason is simple - wood ignites at a temperature lower than that of the furnace gases at the outlet of the furnace).

Next they invented something between a “white” and a “black” stove - for this they placed something like hoods(a cap on top of which there was a chimney pipe). But this is not a brick stove yet.

The revolution, as one would expect, was carried out by Peter I - firstly, he exported a dozen stoves from Holland along with the craftsmen, secondly, he banned the construction of stoves in the capitals that were heated “black”. But in the end it turned out the same way as with the potatoes - the brick oven took root and became like home.

We hope you noticed the main thing - Russian baths were originally heated by batch stoves with flow-through heaters, which lacked only stone insulation for the hearth and a chimney pipe. And when the brick one arrived, it solved all these problems at once.

Advantages and disadvantages

Being progress for its time, brick kilns for a bathhouse, of course, had significant advantages, but this does not mean that they were completely devoid of disadvantages.

Among the latter - spalling of mortar. This is an inevitability that can only be cured jointing And filling the seams with new mortar. The owner needs to constantly monitor the condition of his stove.

Skillful unhurried ignition will get rid of cracks on the chimney, which are a consequence of sudden temperature changes in winter.

Another concern for the owner will be monitoring the amount of soot in the chimney. But similar responsibilities cannot be avoided by the owner of an iron stove. There is one “but”: iron ones have practically no smoke circulation, and if there is, it is purely nominal. And brick ones are often made with one form or another smoke circulation. And it also needs to be cleaned. For this purpose, special cleaning doors are provided.

However main disadvantage the majority still does not count what is listed, but the period of time that passes between the start of kindling and the start of bathing procedures. After all 4-5 hours is the average time required to prepare a sauna. So for day visitors this may not be an option.

Firewood consumption should also be taken into account. In winter, you will have to spend about four dozen firewood for one heating, in summer - three.

By the way! Just in case, we remind you that a newly built stove must first be dried - this is done by repeated fires with a small amount of firewood. That is, immediately the new stove is not heated at full capacity- it will deteriorate from this, it will crack. First, moisture is removed from the entire massif.

As for advantages, then they are obvious: the comfortable atmosphere of a Russian bath is a low temperature (60 degrees) and high humidity, created by steam obtained from the superheated stones of a closed heater. Brick sauna stoves do the best job of maintaining the desired temperature inside and outside the stove.

Types of brick stoves for baths

Interesting topic, extensive. Structures forming different types There are plenty of brick stoves for baths. Some are simpler, others are more complex. Some provide water heating registers, in others - space for tank. Eat bell-type ovens and channel, there are more familiar types heaters - solid and flow-through. In addition to this, there are different smoke circulation systems for channel stoves - vertical and horizontal.

So, it is clear that registers and tanks are additional devices, but first we need to understand the necessary elements. These include:

• blower;
• grate;
• firebox;
• heater;
• smoke circulation.

The first major division can be made according to heaters. There are stones in some ovens separated from the fire only by a grate, which does not in any way prevent their contact; in others, it is equipped for stones sealed box, the bottom of which separates stones and flames, acting as an intermediary in the transfer of heat.

The first heater is called " flow-through" This is the heiress of “black-style” stoves. Today they are called "batch ovens". In fact, how can you pour water into such a heater without filling the fire? Impossible. Therefore, you have to wait until the wood burns out completely. Then you can open the door and add water to get steam.

Plus flow heater is that the stones heat up faster and to a higher temperature. Minus- this has a bad effect on their lifespan in the heater.

Closed or blind heater allows pour water directly while firing the stove. Because these are independent processes. For such convenience, you have to pay in that the stones heat up more slowly, not as hot as in a flow-through, but still their temperature is enough to produce good steam.

Another way to divide ovens is this: they are channel and bell-type. Of the latter, it became widely known Kuznetsov furnace. The difference between them is what exactly is the “engine” of combustion products inside the furnace: the channel furnace operates exclusively on draft. And in the bell chamber, combustion products move freely, but at the same time, new arrivals crowd out their predecessors along the passages prepared for them by the engineer.

On a note! There are a lot of varieties of both channel and bell-type furnaces. The final choice of the appropriate option for your case usually depends on the stove maker, or more precisely, on how many different stoves he has built during his life.

Meaning different designs is to increase the heat transfer of furnace gases. The more they give, the higher the efficiency of the stove. Kuznetsov has an efficiency of 94% - simply an excellent indicator. This is achieved by installing several caps.

By the way! The second cap is often used to integrate additional devices - a heat exchanger or a tank for heating water.

Let's return to channel furnaces. The set of channels represents a smoke circulation. Brick sauna stoves can also be classified according to how the channels are located:

• vertical;
• horizontally.

The specifics of each of these options are fully understood when it comes time to cleanse.

Advice! Therefore, here too (at least at first) it is worth using the services of a professional.

A little about tanks. Brick stoves for a wood-burning bathhouse with a water tank can have it both at the top and bottom of the furnace structure. A fairly common option is when the tank is located behind the firebox, that is, the water heats up as quickly as possible. But we must take into account that the removed heat increases the heating time of the stones and the steam room.

Yes and more. The location of the firebox is variable, however it will not have a remote fuel channel— the stove itself will be positioned so that its wall with the firebox will be in the dressing room, for example. This kills two birds with one stone: heating goes to the rooms adjacent to the steam room, the steam room itself is clean and tidy.

There is one interesting point about the types of stoves. Without going into details, people often formulate their desires as follows: “I want the simplest stove for a brick sauna” or “I need a small stove for a brick sauna.” Well, why not, let’s consider them as possible varieties.

Small brick stove for a bath

In general, such a division should also be considered legitimate. The power depends on the size. The minimum and at the same time cost-effective values ​​that we were able to find are 89x102 cm at the base. In other words, the stove is 4 bricks long and 3.5 bricks wide. Concerning height of a brick stove for a Russian bath, then the recommended value is 168 cm.

Simple brick stove for a bath

But simplicity is a relative concept. If you have no experience, any will be difficult, but if you have it, any will be within your power.

A simple brick stove for a bath with a closed heater

Based on the number of details and stages, including preparatory ones, then in our opinion the simplest would be the same metal stove in brick cladding - it’s not a fact that it will need a strong foundation, the casing is easy to build yourself, masonry errors will not be so critical, and the result will please you with both the quality of heat and steam. So think carefully about what you are willing to do.

How to stay safe

Standard fire safety regulations require that a firebox be placed in front of the firebox. at least half a meter in length, and the distance to the nearest wall was from the firebox at least one and a half meters.

Brick stove for a Russian bath. There should be a pre-furnace sheet in front of the firebox (marked with an arrow)

Brick sauna stove should not be connected to the wall. A gap should be left between them. He is needed first of all due to thermal expansion of the oven- with a rigid connection, cracks may appear. And so its surface does not heat up to the combustion temperature of wood.

However, a brick sauna stove is still a fire hazard. It's all about cracks that appear over time both in the stove itself and in the chimney, and can cause sparks to be released. The only way to fight is prevention. The crumbling seams are cleaned and sealed with new mortar.

Brick sauna stoves: sequence of work

As we promised, you can estimate your capabilities by getting acquainted with the stages of constructing a stove in a brick bathhouse.

Foundation

A brick stove in a bathhouse must have a foundation. No options: The stove in a brick bathhouse will have to be placed on a separate foundation. Many believe that the matter can be avoided shallow foundation, however, this is not always the case. You need to focus on what you did for the bathhouse as a whole. After all, everything greatly depends on the bearing capacity of the soil. Weighing several tons, the brick mass will exert significant pressure on the ground, and it usually sags unevenly, which causes distortion and fracture of the structure - a wall or a stove.

Advice! Read in the appropriate section of the site. There you will find not only theory, but also numerous practical recommendations for the construction of a suitable foundation.

Main - Do not forget that you cannot combine the foundations of a bathhouse and a stove into a single structure. It is customary to leave a gap of at least 5 cm between them.

Brick stove for a bath: solution

IMPORTANT! No cement is placed in the mortar for stove masonry, this must be remembered.

Two ingredients remain: clay and sand. And both can be different in composition or particle size. Sand is sifted through 1.5 mm sieve. As for clay, there are two options: either dig it up on your own site, or buy a bag in a store. In the first case you have to dig deeper than half a meter, because it is from this mark that what may be useful to you begins.

Rule! It is recommended to use the same type of clay for the mortar as in the brick, that is, red or fireclay. The reason is that homogeneous materials have the same thermal expansion, and this is good under conditions of strong heating - they expanded equally, contracted equally, no stress or deformation.

For masonry, the most important clay parameter is: fat she or skinny. These are quite conventional names. You can only understand what you are dealing with by drying a lump of clay and looking at the result. Skinny clay tends to crumble when it dries. Fatty women behave differently: visually the lump becomes smaller in size and cracks appear on it.

Note! When mixed with sand, the fat content of the clay changes, and sand reduces it. That is why there is no exact proportion; it is the result of selecting specific ingredients. The selection is carried out in the form of the following experiment: make several samples of mixtures of clay and sand, mark the shares and let them dry. If a dried cake crumbles, there is too much sand; if it cracks, there is too much clay. Optima is a homogeneous sample that is not cracked or crumbled.

Before mixing, the sand is not only sifted through a fine sieve, but also washed.

By the way! Some solution recipes contain... table salt in small quantities.

The brick itself - brands, types

When planning a stove for a brick bathhouse, the choice of the most basic one plays an important role. building material. We recommend watching a video in which a stove maker tells you what you can find on sale and what he thinks is better.

Video

Let us add on our own that a good selection criterion is sound when hitting a brick. There are no defects if the sound is ringing and metallic. Any deafness is a sign of cracks.

We already mentioned red fireproof and fireclay bricks. In addition to them, they are suitable for ovens clinker and alumina heat-resistant. Fireclay is the most expensive. It is used only for laying out the furnace core of the furnace. Others listed are used for laying its walls.

Brand(number) stands for density. Stove makers use from 150 to 250. The higher the density, the higher the heat capacity, the longer you wait for the steam room to heat up.

Frost resistance material does not matter indoors, but it is worth paying attention to when you make a chimney.

Uniform color- a good sign. Heterogeneous talks about uneven firing and, as a result, different strength of brick sections.

Geometry- also not the last criterion when choosing. It’s easier to work with the right one.

Brick sauna stove: are there any alternatives?

Finally, let's look at what can replace a brick stove in a bathhouse.

Stone stove for a bath

We will not advise you to build the walls of the furnace from real stone, but Covering an iron stove with slabs of some nice stone is not a bad idea. Such a stove will cost less than a brick stove, but not that much cheaper. An advantage can be considered that it will take up less space and will be easier to maintain. In essence, this is an alternative to a brick casing, which, by the way, is also quite good for creating a suitable stove for a Russian bath.

Stone stove for a bath

Stone casings are sold at the most different models stoves, and if we are talking about homemade products, then you can always make a casing to order.

Metal stove + brick pipe

We somehow avoided in this article the question of what kind of chimney should be. It is clear that most people will not put an ordinary sandwich over a brick oven (although there are some). Such a stove is supposed to brick chimney, with fluff and proper cutting of the ceilings.

However heavy and durable a brick chimney can also be placed on a conventional metal stove, which is also good. More precisely, connect a metal stove to a brick pipe. In other words, the chimney is a different story. Look at the photo to see what its implementation could be like in the above-mentioned combination:

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So, the decision is yours - there are no ideal stoves in nature, but there are those that suit us. We wish you to find just such a one.

In contact with

Having your own bathhouse is the dream of any home owner. Within the city limits or in the country, it’s so nice to relax in the bathhouse with your family or friends, to wash away all the negativity and fatigue that has accumulated during the working week. Modern Jacuzzis and electric heaters are no substitute for a real bath, because it has not only a relaxing, but also a cosmetic and therapeutic effect.

The bath is useful for the treatment and prevention of many diseases of the cardiovascular and nervous system, salt deposits, rheumatism, skin diseases, and respiratory diseases. In cosmetology, the bath is recommended as a body skin care product and as a prevention and treatment of cellulite.

Review of stoves for home baths

Of course, the most important attribute of a sauna and bathhouse is the stove. Depending on the intensity of the firebox, you can select the temperature in the steam room yourself, choosing the most comfortable one.

Nowadays there is a fairly large assortment of stoves on sale: solid fuel, electric. However, if you have some construction skills, you can easily build a sauna stove yourself.

To begin with, let’s determine what types of stoves for baths (saunas) exist.

Types of furnaces by material of manufacture

They are divided into brick, metal and combined.

— Brick oven

the most traditional type of stove. This is the most labor-intensive version of the stove, however, it retains heat the longest and creates the most favorable atmosphere. The disadvantages of such a furnace include its rather large size, although there are developments of compact furnaces. It is built from baked bricks. It requires a separate foundation.

—Metal oven

the most popular type of stove for a bath or sauna. Even though it's a little unconventional, it has a number of advantages. A metal stove does not take up much space in the room, heats up quickly, and its manufacture and installation is much easier than constructing a stone stove. Nowadays there is a large assortment of metal stoves on sale, however, if you have welding skills, you will be able to make it yourself. But compared to a brick stove, a metal stove cools down faster. Another disadvantage is the presence of a large hot area on which you can get burned. You can eliminate this drawback by using a combination stove in your sauna.

— Combination ovens

combine the advantages and reduce the disadvantages of brick and metal furnace. Its construction does not require a separate foundation; thanks to the metal, it heats up quickly enough, and the brick retains heat for a long time, and does not pose a risk of burns. Brick laying is quite simple and does not take much time. Also, the combined stove is quite compact and will decorate your bathhouse with its traditional and decorative appearance.

Types of furnaces by energy carrier

Most stoves use wood as heating material. An alternative to firewood can be electricity, gas and even liquid fuel. However, the most preferable option is, of course, firewood. Only they will create natural and healing warmth in the bathhouse and a special atmosphere for the sake of which, in fact, the bathhouse is being built.

Types of stoves by firebox location

The previously discussed types of stoves (brick, metal and combined) can have different designs, differing in the location of the firebox.

The stove can be located entirely in the steam room, or you can move the firebox door into the dressing room. The option when the current is taken to the dressing room is preferable from the point of view of safety and convenience of maintaining temperature. In this case, the firewood will not become damp while in the steam room and you can maintain the fire in the stove without disturbing anyone. You can leave a heater and a tank for heating water in the steam room.

Types of stoves according to the method of heating the heater

There are continuous, periodic and combined sauna stoves.

— Constant heating furnaces

most often used in modern baths. In this case, the stones are located in a metal container welded to the stove body and isolated from combustion products. The heating temperature of stones in such a stove can reach 300...400 °C. Usually coarse gravel stones are used, which are located in metal gratings on the wall of the stove or on the chimney pipe. Due to the fact that the stones do not come into contact with combustion products, they are not covered with soot. The advantage of such a stove is the ability to maintain fire and desired temperature for any time.

— Periodic heating furnaces

provide for direct contact of the heater and hot gases. The stones must be large, round, dark in color and weigh at least 50 kg. Hot gas passing through the heater heats them to 1000 °C and is then discharged into the chimney. Accept bath procedures in this case, it is possible only after complete combustion of the fuel and exit carbon monoxide. To ensure that the heater does not produce heavy wet steam and cools down more slowly, you need to provide a door or a hinged lid. Periodically, the heater needs to be disassembled, clearing the stones of soot and replacing damaged ones.

— Combination ovens

have quite complex design, but will combine the advantages of constant and combined heating furnaces. They retain heat well, provide dry steam and the ability to maintain constant and long-term temperature during the washing process. Combined heaters have two heaters - an internal one, which is heated by combustion products, and an external ventilated one.

Below are diagrams of the most simple ovens

Step-by-step instructions for building a brick stove for a sauna with your own hands

With detailed step by step instructions on the construction of the foundation, necessary materials and tools, features of bricklaying, sequence of work and necessary safety measures can be found at the link http://wp.domns.com/?p=2470&preview=true&preview_id=2470&preview_nonce=feea7aef17

One feature: when laying a stove, it is best to use a clay mortar. To do this, fill the clay with water for at least a day and add clean sand to the solution 1:1. Mix thoroughly until it reaches the consistency of sour cream.

Below is a diagram of a stove for a bathhouse measuring 90 x 100 x 170 cm. It is suitable for a bathhouse with a steam room area of ​​5.2 square meters. m, washing area 4...5 sq. m. Recommended ceiling height is 2.4 m.

Detailed video can be viewed via the link

Metal stove made of pipe

If you have experience with electric welding, you can make a metal sauna stove. Pipe scraps, truck rims, gas cylinders, metal barrels, etc. can be used as material.

Only steel is used as the metal for the sauna stove, since cast iron is quite fragile and does not withstand temperature changes well. The thickness of the steel must be no less than 5 mm.

To make this stove you will need the following materials:

— steel pipe for a firebox with a diameter of 50 cm and a length of 90 cm, recommended wall thickness is 8...10 mm

- a pipe for a heater with a diameter of 30...35 cm, a thickness of at least 5 mm or fittings

- a pipe with a diameter of 50 cm and a length of 60 cm. This pipe will be used as a water container, so the recommended material is stainless steel, since steel is susceptible to corrosion

- mortise water tap

– loops – 3 sets

— steel sheets 8 mm thick

- grate bars (can be made independently from a steel plate 15 mm thick or from reinforcement)

- door handles, latches

1. A rectangular hole measuring 20 x 7 cm is cut out at the bottom of the firebox pipe. A door is made from the cut piece, a set of hinges, a latch and a handle are welded.

2. A circle is cut out from sheet metal according to the diameter of the firebox pipe.

3. The bottom is welded to the pipe.

4. Grate bars are made. To do this, a circle is cut out of a steel plate (thickness - at least 15 mm), in which grate holes are made. You can also make grates from reinforcement rods, which are laid at intervals and welded. You can also purchase ready-made grates in the store. Our goal in this case is a flat surface on which firewood will burn, ashes and coals will fall down, and there will be draft from the ash pit to maintain good combustion.

5. The finished grates are welded above the ash pan.

6. A window is cut out above the grate for storing firewood (25 x 30 cm), hinges and a handle are welded to the cut metal. The door must be closed with a latch.

7. A grate is welded from reinforcement rods (instead of reinforcement, you can use a curved metal sheet or a piece of pipe cut in the shape of a scoop) - this is the future heater. The distance from the heater to the top edge of the pipe should be at least 10 cm.

8. A bottom is welded to the bottom of the pipe that will be used as a tank for heating water, in which a hole must first be cut to the size of the diameter of the chimney pipe. The quality of welding must be carefully checked, the seams must be airtight. A tap is installed at the bottom of the water tank.

9. The furnace part and the tank for heating water are welded. It is recommended to install a coupling at the mounting location.

10. For fire safety purposes, the chimney pipe must be lined with bricks, so a plate is welded above the water heating tank, which serves as the basis for the brickwork. The distance between the plate and the tank is 35 ... 40 cm.

On video a metal stove with a heater and a water tank is presented

Combination oven

A metal stove can be lined with brick, then it will have more decorative look and will retain heat much longer.

You need to start with the base device. If the floor is strong, you can do without a foundation. Recommendations for foundation construction can be read here

If a foundation is not required, then the work is performed in the following sequence:

1. The position of the brick is marked.

2. Bricks for masonry must first be soaked in water for up to 30 minutes.

3. A metal sheet is nailed along the contour of the masonry, which will protect the surface from overheating.

4. An asbestos sheet is laid on the brickwork, it provides fire safety and does not emit harmful substances when heated.

5. Choose the optimal distance between brickwork and a stove. If the distance is too large, the brick will take a long time to heat up, and if it is too small. then the brick and stove will overheat greatly, which will reduce the service life. The optimal distance is 3...5 cm.

6. The masonry is done in half a brick. The seam should be 3...5 mm. As a solution, you can use a mixture of cement and fireclay (fireproof) clay, a mixture of sand and clay, or special dry adhesive mixtures made of porcelain stoneware.

7. The first row is laid completely, in the second row two holes are left on each wall, the size of half a brick. Depending on the size of the oven, there should be 2...4 such holes on each side. The opening for the firebox should be comfortable; it is recommended to reinforce the opening with a metal corner.

8. You can finish laying bricks at the level of the stove, or above the level.

9. After drying, you need to remove excess solution with a drill with a brush attachment.

On video You can see an example of brick lining a metal stove

The effective operation of a homemade stove largely depends on the right choice and laying stones.

For the heater to work effectively, you need at least 50 kg of stones (for a small stove) and 80...100 kg for a standard medium-sized stove.

The stones must be round in shape without cracks or breaks of a uniform gray different sizes(50...150 mm).
The best materials for a heater are: natural cobblestone, basalt, jadeite, soapstone chloride. Before laying stones, they must be thoroughly washed.

Video review of bath stones

Granite cannot be used for a heater, as under the influence of high temperatures and steam it quickly breaks down and releases toxic fumes.
How to properly lay stones can be seen in the diagram below, that is, large stones are stacked vertically at the bottom, each subsequent layer of stones should be smaller in size, and stones of a small fraction are located at the top. This arrangement of stones provides maximum effect for obtaining dry steam; the top layer of stones is heated to 400°C.

Proper placement of stones will ensure the best healing effect from visiting the bathhouse. Otherwise, the steam will turn out damp and staying in the steam room will not be comfortable. Video recommendations for correct installation stones