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For most people, August is a wonderful warm month at the end of summer, when it is time to enjoy the bounty of gardens, warm, fine days and the beauty of late flowers. However, it is in August that people notice an exacerbation of allergic reactions. The article is devoted to the question of what you might be allergic to in August and what needs to be done to, if not eliminate, then at least alleviate the painful symptoms.

Below you will learn what blooms and ripens in August, as well as other possible allergens and ways to avoid contact with them.

What could you be allergic to in August?

Let's consider what irritants can cause August allergies.

Plant pollen

Aeroallergens, as in others summer months, hold a sad championship even with seasonal allergies in August. Penetrating into the respiratory tract and settling on the mucous membranes, pollen provokes an inflammatory process. Pollen is easily carried by the wind over fairly long distances, and even distance from the irritant does not save an allergic person from it.

This is what tripartite ragweed looks like (can be enlarged)

Almost all the trees have finished flowering (with the exception of pine and juniper), but meadow grasses and weeds continue to bloom wildly in August:

• plantain,
• gonoeaceae,
• nettle,
• sagebrush,
• bluegrass,
• timothy grass

Allergies to ragweed cause especially many problems in August.

August also sees the flowering of asteraceae, such as asters, daisies and chrysanthemums.

To prevent the flowering of allergenic plants in August from being taken by surprise, an allergy sufferer's calendar will help, indicating the flowering of herbs. It’s good if the calendar is adapted to a specific climate zone. With the help of a detailed calendar, you can figure out what allergies happen to at the beginning or end of August.

Mold spores

Alternaria fungi that attack the surface of leaves cause a lot of problems. Path of entry into human body, as in the case of pollen - inhalation.

The likelihood of an allergic reaction to spores and suspended pollen in the air increases in dry, sunny, windy weather. rain deposits pollen and fungal spores, reducing the risk of allergies.

Fruit

Perhaps August is the most generous month of the year. Far from it full list its fruit and berry gifts:

• apples,
• pears,
• plums,
• melons

Garden crops that ripen in August include:

• beets,
• cabbage,
• zucchini,
• cucumbers,
• tomatoes,
• carrot
• squash.

All these gardening riches can cause food allergies. Allergies to fruits in August are quite common.

Sun allergy

Manifests itself in the form of photodermatosis (red itchy spots on the body).

Cross allergies and how to avoid them

There are various products whose antigenic properties are very similar. An exacerbation of allergies in August can provoke a reaction to other foods.

• Those suffering from an allergy to wormwood may experience a reaction to citrus fruits, chicory, sunflower oil and products containing it (sunflower seeds, halva). Among medicinal plants, allergies to chamomile, coltsfoot, calendula, and elecampane may occur.
• If you are allergic to quinoa, you may also have a reaction to spinach and beets.
• Those suffering from ragweed pollen intolerance should refrain from consuming it during seasonal allergies. sunflower oil, bananas, melons.

Allergy symptoms in August

Manifestations of allergies are quite varied. Here are the most common ones.

• Respiratory allergies manifested by a runny nose (allergic rhinitis), cough, sensations of nasal congestion, sneezing (allergic sneezing).
• Allergic conjunctivitis. It is characterized by itching and burning in the eyes, increased lacrimation.
• Skin manifestations- rash, itching, swelling, peeling of the skin (or, conversely, itchy, weeping areas).
• Quincke's edema.
• Disorders of the stomach and intestines- abdominal pain, stool disorders (diarrhea or constipation), flatulence, nausea, vomiting.
• Anaphylactic shock. Manifested by a sharp drop blood pressure, cramps, shortness of breath.

Treatment of August allergies

Allergy treatment in August comes down to the following. Firstly, there is no need to wait for September. Those who try to “endure” this period are mistaken. Secondly, it is dangerous to health, and thirdly, it is not very easy to tolerate.

It is necessary to begin persistent and timely treatment. Of course, there is a lot of specialized literature and articles on allergies, but the most correct option- contact an experienced allergist who will prescribe the correct treatment. So, what can a doctor prescribe?

Drug therapy

Here is an approximate list of treatment methods and the most popular medications that can overcome the unpleasant manifestations of allergies.

1. Antihistamines(Cetirizine, Tavegil, Claritin, Clemastine, Diphenhydramine). They help relieve symptoms quickly enough, but as soon as you stop taking them, the allergy makes itself felt again.
2. Hormonal drops and sprays(Beclomethasone, Fluticasone).
3. Nasal antihistamine drops(Azelastine), eye drops (Ketotifen, Olopatadine).
4. Mast cell stabilizers which prevent the release of histamine from mast cells (this is what provokes the reaction). These drugs are prescribed by an allergist. Their uncontrolled use is prohibited. This group of drugs includes: Ketotifen, Cromohexal, Cromoglin.
5. Ointments and creams based on corticosteroids. The course of treatment with such drugs is two to three weeks, no more. To prevent the skin from becoming too dry, it is advisable to combine these hormonal ointments with light moisturizing creams (for example, baby creams).
6. Moisturizing ointments that soften skin that is flaky from allergic dermatitis (cream with glycerin, Elobaze, Radevit).
7. Anti-inflammatory ointments with Panthenol (Bepanten, Panthenol).
8. Ointments with a drying effect(Desitin) - for weeping skin lesions.
9. Allergen-specific immunotherapy(ASIT). The essence of treatment is the gradual introduction into the patient’s body of small, gradually increasing doses of the allergen, until the allergy is completely eliminated. Before performing ASIT, special diagnostics are required to accurately identify the allergen.

In case of symptoms of anaphylactic shock, you must immediately call an ambulance. The patient must be provided with complete rest. Before the ambulance arrives, you need to give an antihistamine.

Folk remedies for treating allergies

This is what mumiyo looks like dissolved in water

“Grandma’s” time-tested remedies turn out to be very effective. In combination with medications, folk remedies for allergies in August they help overcome unpleasant symptoms.

Mumiyo

• 1 gram mumiyo,
• 1 liter of water

Mumiyo should be diluted in a liter of boiled water. Drink the resulting solution 0.5 cups per day before meals. Children under 12 years old should not be given mumiyo.

Herbal collection No. 1

• viburnum flowers (2 parts),
• string sheet (1 part),
• sage inflorescences (1 part),
• wheatgrass roots, elecampane, licorice (1 part each).

Pour four tablespoons of the mixture into a liter of boiling water and leave for eight hours. Take a glass a day, dividing it into 3 times (about half an hour before meals).

Burdock root

• 2 tbsp. l. burdock root,
• 0.5 l cold water

Pour in the crushed root cold water, bring to a boil, strain. Take 20-30 minutes before meals, 3 times a day.

Celery

• 2 tbsp. l. celery root,
• 1 tbsp. water

Pour finely chopped celery root boiled water, insist for an hour. Strain the resulting infusion. Drink shortly before meals 3 times a day, ⅓ glass.

Infusion can be replaced juice from celery root. The frequency of administration is the same, but one or two teaspoons. This remedy improves the condition of skin affected by allergies and helps get rid of hives.

Herbal tea No. 2

Plant roots needed:

• calamus (1 part),
• elecampane (1 part),
• coltsfoot (2 parts),
• wild rosemary (3 parts).

A tablespoon of herbal mixture is poured into one glass of boiling water. Take 3 tablespoons, three times a day, before meals.

Herbal tea No. 3

• rose hip,
• centaury,
• dandelion root,
• St. John's wort,
• corn silk,
• horsetail

Herbs are taken in the ratio 8:4:4:3:1:2, respectively.

Two tablespoons of a mixture of medicinal plants are poured into 0.5 liters of boiling water overnight. Take the infusion 0.5 cups half an hour before each meal.

Herbal tea No. 4

• Rose hip,
• St. John's wort,
• centaury,
• dandelion roots,
• horsetail,
• corn silk,
• pharmaceutical chamomile.

Component ratio: 4:4:5:3:2:1:1. Two tablespoons of the mixture are poured into 0.5 liters of boiling water and left overnight.

In the morning, heat the mixture again to boiling temperature and leave for another hour. The resulting drink is filtered and taken three times a day, half an hour before meals.

note

Herbal infusions help get rid of rashes, tissue swelling, skin itching, and alleviate the general condition of seasonal allergies. However, the fees should be used with caution, after consulting with your doctor.

Taking into account individual tolerance to herbs is mandatory, since an allergy to grass flowering in August can cause a reaction to medicinal plants. Especially good results Herbal medicine can help with persistent allergies.

How to protect yourself from allergies in August

These simple tips will help you significantly reduce the harmful effects of seasonal allergens and reduce the use of anti-allergy medications. So…

1. It is advisable to leave in August to an area where there are no flowering plants that can provoke allergies.
2. Country work related to mowing the lawn or mowing grass is not for you! You should not completely give up traveling to the country, but be sure to have an antihistamine and a gauze bandage with you (you can purchase it at a pharmacy or make it yourself). It is useful to use special nasal filters (Japan, Great Britain), which provide good protection against pollen and do not cause discomfort.
3. Do wet cleaning in the house more often (preferably daily). Take care of cleanliness, but do not overuse chemical detergents.
4. Use devices for air purification and humidification, preferably with special anti-allergenic filters.
5. It is advisable to leave the house after rain. In windy and sunny days It is better to refrain from walking.
6. It is better to ventilate the apartment at night, since at this time plant pollen is not so active. Curtain windows and doors with a damp cloth or piece of gauze folded in four layers.
7. Be careful with cosmetics and medications containing extracts of herbs, plants and fruits that cause allergies.
8. To avoid photodermatosis, it is useful to lubricate exposed parts of the body with sunscreen and wear long sleeves.

It is very rare for seasonal allergies to occur just once. As a rule, it repeats from year to year. lack of treatment, as well as chaotic, uncontrolled use of antihistamines can lead to bronchial asthma.

Therefore, cooperation with a good allergist, coordinating with him the intake of all medications is prerequisite successful treatment of allergies. It is advisable to consider the possibilities of treatment using the ASIT method in order to get rid of the disease, if not completely, then for a long time.

What is the best way to get pregnant if you are allergic to dust in August? When should you become pregnant if you are allergic to wormwood in August?

If you suffer from seasonal allergies, try to plan your pregnancy so that the first three months do not involve exacerbations. It is in the first trimester of pregnancy that the formation of organs and systems of the fetus occurs, and taking antihistamines can negatively affect it.

It is better to plan pregnancy when seasonal allergies with their debilitating symptoms subside.

Where to go for allergies in August?

Countries such as Greece, Turkey, Italy, Croatia, Cyprus or Spain are well suited for August holidays for allergy sufferers. An August allergy to wormwood or ragweed will not be scary for you in these countries.

Among Russian resorts, Sochi, Tuapse, and South Coast are suitable.

When going on vacation, choose hotels with indoor pools. Tours around Europe (Czech Republic, Lviv, Slovakia, Poland, Austria) are well suited. In any case, you should carry an antihistamine and sunscreen with you.

Where are there no allergies in August in Russia?

Allergies are a very individual phenomenon, so there is simply no way to name a point on the geographical map of Russia where you will be 100% insured against allergies.

Naturally, the disease must be confirmed by relevant medical documents.

August- a fertile time when the garden is filled with a wide variety of colors and aromas of flowers and herbs, warmed by the generous sun. It seems that it will always be like this, and you don’t want to leave the fabulously beautiful corners of the blooming garden.

It continues to sparkle with bright colors of summer residents - lovers of the sun and warmth: , Tagetes, gilia, Lavatera, gypsophila, verbena, gatsaniya, antirirum, alyssums, lobelia, tobaccos, nemesia and many other types and varieties, too many to list. Many gardeners do not grow summer plants due to lack of time and space for seedlings. But we should pay tribute to the beauty and abundance of their flowering, which begins from April - May (depending on the timing of growing seedlings) and continues until cold weather, and in some cold-resistant species (alissum, asters, lobelia, chrysanthemums, brachycoma, verbena, gatsania, gilia , godetia, dimorphotheca, sweet pea, calendula, ornamental cabbage, limnanthes, snapdragon, nemesia, nolana, petunia, mignonette, schisanthus, winged tobacco, Drummond's phlox, cineraria maritime) - and on the cold days of September - October.

Perennials may not bloom as brightly and for a long time, but they do not require much care, you just need to plant them once, and they will never leave you. The variety of species and varieties of perennial flowering plants makes it relatively easy to create a garden continuous flowering. They have another undoubted advantage: many species are very plastic in nature and can grow and bloom well under the canopy. fruit trees And berry bushes, putting up with the lack of lighting and maintaining its decorative effect.

So, in August, many species of perennials continue to bloom, which began in July (and some even in June). These include , anthemis cinnamon (navel), hybrid astilbe, Italian aster, Frikarta aster, breast aster, heart-shaped bocconia, woolly hogweed, cornflowers - whitened, mountain, beautiful, oriental, large-headed; heather, elecampane (inula), Gebler's John's wort, ; scepter-shaped mullein, daylily, burnet, perennial flax, liatris, hybrid lily, linaria (flaxgrass), maurandia, small petal (erigeron), Echinops (echinops), soapwort (saponaria), hybrid rudbeckia and split-leaved "Golden Ball", Caucasian scabiosa, peacock tigridia, paniculata phlox, hellebores - white, black, Californian; black cohosh (black cohosh), edelweiss, purple coneflower, maned barley.

Other perennials that are just beginning to bloom, which will last until frost and even a little after it, also add their colors and shapes to the August palette of the garden.

An indispensable participant of the autumn carnival - bush aster (a. dumosus) fam. Asteraceae, which blooms from August until frost with lilac-pink, purple inflorescences - baskets (central tubular flowers - yellow) with a diameter of up to 3 cm on low bushes (20 - 50 cm according to varieties) of a surprisingly regular spherical shape, formed independently, without the participation of a gardener, but at good lighting. There are varieties with different colors of narrow reed flowers: white, pink, lilac-blue, lilac. The culture is unpretentious, but works better in fertile areas without waterlogging. Propagated by dividing the bush in spring or early summer.

It is difficult to imagine a garden without (the Astrov family). Its slender bush, up to 180 cm high, consists of many strong stems, branched at the top with a whole bouquet of inflorescences - baskets of bright yellow or reddish-brown, bronze color. In group plantings against the backdrop of a lawn, helenium is an unrivaled soloist. autumn garden. At the same time, the plant grows successfully in tree trunk circles fruit trees in partial shade, growing taller due to lack of light. By nature, helenium is photophilous and requires sufficient moisture and fertile soils. Every year in the fall, all its parts are replaced: in place of the mother rhizome, independent daughter buds of renewal develop with their own roots and rhizome. The underground parts of the plant grow upward, so autumn mulching with humus, limed peat, and compost is required. Helenium is divided and replanted every 3-4 years. In the middle and northwestern zone, helenium bears fruit well.

Seeds are sown before winter (October - November) in a bed to a depth of 1.5 - 2 cm or in the spring, at the beginning of summer after freezing them in the freezer for 15-20 days before sowing. Seedlings dive at a distance of 4-5 cm. summer season they are given several liquid fertilizers(Uniflor-rost, 1 cap per 2 liters of water). In August, grown rosettes are planted on permanent place, having previously filled the soil with humus, compost soil with the addition of a tablespoon of ash or several crystals of long-acting complex fertilizer (2-3 years) AVA for each plant. Using this technology, in the middle and northwestern zone, most perennials are grown from seeds: aquilegia, anemones, helenium, doronicum, incarvillea, kandyk, lychnis, pulsatilla, paradisia, primrose veris, cortusoides, auricula; trollius (bathweed), sage, echinacea, etc. Small-seeded species are best grown through seedlings in small containers at home or in a greenhouse; this will allow you to carefully care for the crops, protect them from slugs and get the maximum yield of seedlings.

One of the most famous autumn species, blooming in August, is (family Compositae) of hybrid origin and has a wide variety of colors (except pure blue) and shapes of inflorescences - baskets. They bloom in July - September and are divided into 11 groups according to the structure, size and shape of the flower. There are simple, semi-double and double types of inflorescences. The height of plants can be from 40 cm to 2 m. Particularly elegant in the garden are the so-called medium-height dahlias with semi-double, anemone-like inflorescences. They do not require a garter and are good in ridges and groups at the forefront. The culture is thermophilic, needs a sunny location, but tolerates light partial shade. The soil should be nutritious and well-drained (soggy soil is not suitable!). Fertilize complex fertilizers with a good dose of potassium (Kemira - flower or universal, 80-100 g per m2 per season). tall plants tied up. Be sure to remove wilted inflorescences, which prolongs flowering and eliminates the danger of gray rot. After the first frost, cut aboveground part bush and dig up root tubers. They are washed with water to remove soil, dried in a cool and ventilated place to cork the peel. Clear away any remaining soil and store indoors at 4°C until spring. In the spring, the root tubers are divided into separate parts with several eyes on each and planted in pots or boxes for growing. Planted in open ground when the soil warms up (late May - early June). Dahlias are very thermophilic; if there is a threat of frost, the sprouted stems are covered with film or lutrasil in the spring.

Gladiolus hybrid (Iris family) is a whole “country” in floriculture; for many gardeners it is the most favorite flower, having almost all colors except pure blue. Let us briefly recall that in modern classification There are 5 main groups of these plants in accordance with the shape of the flower and other characteristics: large-flowered hybrids with a height of 90-120 cm, with triangular-shaped flowers with a diameter of 10-18 cm and an inflorescence length of 40-50 cm; butterfly-shaped hybrids 60-90 cm high with flowers 5-10 cm in diameter, corrugated, closely spaced on the stem, with a brighter throat color, shaped like a butterfly; primrose hybrids 50-90 cm high, with loosely arranged flowers on the stem with a diameter of about 8 cm, a characteristic feature is the upper petal looks like a hood; miniature hybrids are similar to primroses, reach a height of no more than 50 cm, the flowers are often corrugated or fringed, with a diameter of 5 cm; wild-growing species of gladiolus with graceful, sparsely arranged flowers; the most commonly grown are Byzantine gladiolus, about 100 cm high, with crimson or red flowers, and Colville gladiolus with different colors flowers by variety and height of about 60 cm. There are many magnificent varieties in each group.

Gladiolus requires sunny, warm places and nutritious, loose soil with sufficient moisture (wet and dry areas are not suitable). Fertilizers are used with a large dose of potassium. High grades need a garter. Propagated by daughter corms, which are dug up after flowering and the first frosts in September. The stems are cut, leaving 5 cm of stumps; when the leaves turn yellow, they are dried at a temperature of 25 - 28 ° C. After 2-3 weeks, the baby is separated from the adult corms and placed in paper bags. Store planting material in a dry, ventilated room at a temperature of about 5°C, preferably in a box with a mesh bottom, regularly inspecting and removing diseased corms. Corms are planted in April - May (when the soil is ready for cultivation) to a depth of 8-10 cm, often already germinated at home in pots to speed up flowering.

Of interest are the giant ones. Sakhalin and Baldzhuan highlanders (family Buckwheat) up to 3 m high (the latter is a liana up to 6 m). Winter-hardy thicket plants quickly create lush groups, while in August (sometimes from the end of July) they bloom with whitish or pinkish spreading clusters of small flowers. Highlanders can grow as a hedge, decorate outbuildings, compost containers, etc. The Baljuan knotweed perfectly decorates gazebos, walls, and fences. Highlanders grow luxuriantly in loose, nutritious soils, tolerate shade, and bloom profusely in the sun. They are propagated by seeds, cuttings, and suckers.

Goldenrod (solidago) Canadian, hybrid (family Asteraceae) is one of the most unpretentious and resilient perennial plants in our area. In August - September it blooms with large fluffy panicles of bright yellow color with the smell of honey. The height of these slender stems, which create good curtains and hedges, varies from 50 to 150 cm. The wonderful cut retains its decorative value in dry bouquets and serves as a good basis for winter compositions. Light-loving, but tolerates partial shade. Otherwise unpretentious. Propagated by dividing the bush. There are varieties and garden forms.

One of the rare, but most exquisite plants this flowering time - Korean chrysanthemum (family Asteraceae). This is the only type of chrysanthemum that overwinters with light shelter in the North-West. Group varieties Korean chrysanthemums differ in the timing of flowering (August - October), height (25-100 cm), structure and size of inflorescences, color of the marginal reed and central tubular flowers. Small-flowered varieties with a diameter of inflorescences up to 10 cm are more common: non-double (1-2 rows of reed flowers), semi-double (3 or more rows), double. Reed flowers are white, lilac-pink, golden-yellow, reddish-brown, bronze with yellow tubular in the center. There are many varieties, including domestic selection: Alyonushka, Zlata, Amber, Cinderella, Dreams, Autumn Abundance, Korean, New Korean, etc.

Korean chrysanthemum prefers a sunny location- after all, it blooms in the fall, when the nights are cold, and only the sun and heated stones nearby can warm it and allow it to bloom profusely. The soil should be fertile with moderate moisture and good drainage. This is an exceptionally drought-resistant crop that is resistant to diseases and pests. Growing it is easy and affordable. In the spring, like for everyone perennial crops, requires feeding nitrogen fertilizers without incorporating into the soil (urea, saltpeter - 20-30 g per m2). Then, as the shoots grow, they are pinched 2-3 times before the beginning of July or cut into cuttings 8-10 cm long. Fertilizing with complete fertilizer with microelements is carried out on average every 10-14 days. If the chrysanthemum grows and branches poorly, until mid-summer you can alternate growth fertilizers (Uniflor-rost, 1 cap per 2 liters of water) with fertilizer for flowering (Uniflor-bud in the same dose).

Korean chrysanthemum is propagated vegetatively: by dividing bushes, root shoots, cuttings (in the southern regions - and seeds). Cuttings root easily in water (you just need to darken the lower part of the cuttings by wrapping the vessel in dark paper or film), or in sand. You can also take flowering shoots from cuttings at the end of the season. In this case, the rooted cuttings are planted in pots and kept at home as queen cells, cutting chrysanthemums from early spring.

E. Kuzmina, florist
Photo: O. Filippova

Summer is coming to an end, delighting with warm August days and new flowers in the garden. Let's see what blooms and smells here...

Yes, calendar summer is ending, but don’t be sad. The season is not over yet, but the flowers of August continue to be fragrant and pleasing to the eye. So, what flowers bloom in August and what has changed in the garden compared to the previous month?

Again, at first glance, there are fewer flowers in August (we already talked about flowers in July). But at the same time, a lot of green mass has grown; even walking along the paths has become more difficult in some places. Here the apple trees bend their branches lower and lower under the weight of large fruits (and now there are a lot of apples, pears, and cherries), and here the vegetable tops stick out from the beds. But that’s not about that now.

Second half of August. The weather was warm, it rained in the morning and afternoon, heavy in places, but by evening the clouds cleared and the puddles had time to dry out. Without fear of getting wet, let's walk through the garden.

I see that the delphiniums are no longer visible, the lilies, which at the beginning of the month were almost everywhere, have almost bloomed, and neither yellow nor white loosestrife flowers are visible. There are still phloxes, but there are not so many of them anymore, and they do not have their former splendor. The nasturtium is still blooming too.

Like last month, sweet peas continue to bloom in August: purple, red and white flowers flaunt on specially prepared supports, adjacent to clematis that is not yet fading.

In clematis, insects are not visible, but in goldenrod there is no end to them - it is a well-known honey plant. The bright yellow panicle inflorescences, one and a half meters high, seem to glow and simply attract all kinds of small living creatures.

Honey goldenrod attracts insects.

Go ahead. I see that the red snapdragon continues to bloom (because of its redness I can’t do anything good photo against the backdrop of a colorful flower bed). And this diversity is created by red-white-pink godetia, the remains of lilies of all colors, hydrangea, asters...

Yes, the asters are starting to bloom a little, but there are still very few of them. But the mentioned hydrangea has been blooming for several months now: its small flowers are at first completely green, then turn yellow and eventually acquire a final white-yellow color. Beautiful.

From what was not there before, we can call montbrecia. In August it bloomed with bright red-orange flowers. Montbrecia, which is also called Japanese gladiolus, is visible from a distance even in the shade, and when a ray of sun falls on it, the flowers seem to flare up like a hot flame!

Montbrecia in the rays of the August sun.

Next to the goldenrod, which was discussed a little higher, I have almost thickets of tall (taller than human height) bright yellow flowers. What are we talking about? Yes, yes, these are the golden balls of rudbeckia familiar to many - they are two meters high, or even more, and simply glow against the blue sky, reflecting the still bright summer sun.

Since the beginning of August, I, like most flower growers, have been blooming with gladioli. There are only a few of them so far, the rest are still gaining strength to shoot their colored arrows into the sky. Among those already in bloom there are beautiful pale pink specimens, and there are interesting red gladioli with a white center.

But in another corner of the garden I again watch the insects: a butterfly has perched on a luxurious echinacea, which I somehow never considered as such before. Now he folds his wings, now he spreads them; If you drive it away, it will fly away, but immediately sit back down again. She seems to like it here in the sun.

A butterfly perched on a prickly echinacea.

Not far from the echinacea, at the entrance to the site, marigolds grow, including particularly noticeable variegated specimens of the “Harlequin” variety - those with yellow and burgundy-brown stripes. I think they look like striped bees.

In August, of course, there were more dahlias. If previously they huddled only in the shade of the apple tree, now they can be seen both here and there: red, pink, lilac... Don’t forget that the first frost is just around the corner and it’s time to put the dahlias away for storage.

Mirabilis blooms in the same way, and oxalis (or oxalis) predicts rain... Zinnia flowers appeared: some are orange, others are reddish, and the color of others cannot be described in words. In general, beauty and nothing more! And now I want only one thing: for this beauty to please the eye for as long as possible and not rush to fade for the sake of the coming autumn. And when the time comes, we’ll see what flowers will grow, bloom and smell in September.

Work in the flower garden in August. List of works in the flower garden for August.

Summer work in the flower garden.

Caring for garden flowers in August

1. The main work in the flower garden in August is planting new perennials, as well as replanting overgrown ones and rejuvenating outdated ones. But first of all, you need to prepare a place for planting, and therefore start replanting or buy new planting material. Most gardeners do just the opposite. They go to numerous exhibitions, which take place at this time, and buy everything they catch their eye on. You can plant or replant astilbe, delphinium, kupena, dicentra, phlox, bells, irises, leotard, bergenia, pyrethrum, solidago, peonies. Rhizomatous perennials must be dug up from all sides, and the plant along with the lump of earth must be turned on its side. Using a strong stream of water from a hose, dig up the rhizome, freeing it from the ground. The rhizomes are cut with a sharp knife only from those plants (for example, astilbe, pyrethrum) in which it cannot be broken into pieces by hand. The rhizome must be divided so that each division has renewal buds. Immediately cover the sections with dry ash or lubricate them with brilliant green or hydrogen peroxide. But you can wash the wounds with a solution of any drug containing copper.

2. If the peonies had brown spots on the leaves, or they turned very red, and even more so if the stems were directly torn off at the very base, where black rot had formed, then such a peony must be dug up and the rhizome carefully checked, since the peony is sick with fusarium. All rotten parts of the rhizome should be carefully cut out, or even better, immediately divide such a peony into separate clean sections. Wash the wounds as mentioned above and sprinkle them with ash. Only after this can the peony be replanted, preferably to a new place. Peony doesn't like acidic soils, stagnant water, too dry planting site, clay. You're putting him away for decades, so landing pit should be at least 60x60x60cm in size and filled with well-rotted compost, but manure should not be added under the peony. It should not be planted closer than two meters from the walls of houses or the trunks of large trees. You only need to deepen the rhizome by 4-5 cm. Peony loves silicon very much. Plant the division directly in a woolen mitten or sock, or add a handful of feathers from an old pillow when planting under the division. Wool and feathers are pure organic silicon. Organic silicon is contained in the preparations Energen and Siliplant, which, of course, can also be used. In addition, I always add a tablespoon of AVA granular fertilizer under the peony, but you can also use phosphorus-potassium fertilizer. Simply, when adding AVA, you can avoid using mineral supplements for 3 years.

To rejuvenate a peony, and this should be done once every 10 years, it must be dug up from all sides and turned on its side. Carry out all further actions in the same way as when digging up a sick peony. But healthy plant, which has begun to bloom poorly, can be rejuvenated simply by cutting off part of it on one side with a strong blow from a sharp shovel. Then dig up the severed part and plant it, cover the cuts with ash. Add ash (at least a glass) into the resulting hole and fill it with fertile soil. A year later, the operation should be repeated on the other side of the bush.

3. Dividing phlox is a mandatory event every 3-4 years. The fact is that the rhizome of phlox annually grows with young branching roots right on the root collar. Renewal buds are located at the very base of last year's shoots, that is, almost on the surface of the soil. Growing annually, the root system begins to bulge upward and, together with the renewal buds, finds itself unprotected from frost. In addition, the aging middle of the bush is gradually being destroyed. The bush should be dug up, the roots should be washed away with water and the plant should be divided, cutting out the old middle. If flower composition If you are satisfied with it and you don’t want to change it, then simply change the soil under the phloxes and plant them in their original place. The main thing is not to forget to add fresh nutritious soil under the phloxes in spring and autumn. At good care, fertilizing and timely watering, phlox can grow perfectly in one place for up to 7 years. An indicator of its good health is the non-drying greenery on the lower part of the stems. But if the phloxes dry out from below, and dwarf shoots grow in the spring, then take care of them urgently, without waiting for August, otherwise you risk losing the plants. Phlox needs fertile, neutral, constantly moderately moist soil. In a sunny place, phlox bloom earlier, but also fade faster. Partial shade is best. In the shade they are severely affected by powdery mildew.

4. You should also add soil under the astilbe, otherwise it will not bloom or the flowering will be weak. The rhizome grows upward, and the renewal buds, located at the very base of last year's stems, appear above the surface of the earth. It is best to plant, divide and replant it in August. The plant is undemanding and grateful. With minimal care it blooms profusely, for a long time and for many years in one place. If necessary, you can rejuvenate the bushes, just like peonies.

Astilbe grows well in partial shade and even shade; in the sun it quickly fades. Prefers slightly acidic soils, very responsive to mineral supplements, but it’s better not to get carried away with ash. In early spring, young shoots can be damaged by spring frosts, but this is not a problem; new ones will grow in their place. Flower buds can die only if you do not add soil under the bushes.

Like all shade-loving plants, astilbes love moisture, but this does not mean that they can be planted in low, flooded places. They are successfully combined with columbine and basil leaves, as well as bergenia due to the same living conditions; in addition, this group of plants blooms almost the entire season, replacing each other. You can also add autumn asters and solidago to them, although both of the latter groups prefer a sunny location, but grow and bloom in partial shade, although somewhat later than on a sunny hillock.

5. In August, lilies that belong to the Eastern hybrids bloom, as well as the so-called lilies (tiger, leopard). Saranki are unpretentious plants. Reproduction occurs by aerial bulbs that appear on the stems. As soon as their roots begin to hatch, remove them from the stems and place them in a school for growing. The planting depth is 3-4 cm, but they should be covered for the winter and the cover removed in early spring. Next August, replant them in place. Oriental hybrids in the North-West the plants are problematic. As I wrote before, they do not tolerate cold, wet weather well, and this is exactly what we have during their flowering period. Therefore, as a rule, they get botrytis. Without waiting for rusty spots and stripes to appear on the leaves, start spraying your lily plantings weekly with Zircon as a preventive measure in early August. For prevention, it is enough to prepare a solution of 2 drops of Zircon and one liter of water. And when the first signs of the disease appear, the solution should be taken at a higher concentration (4-5 drops per 1 liter of water). It is imperative to save the leaves, otherwise the bulb will not recover and next year the plant may not sprout at all. Having dug up the soil in this place, you will find a large, but completely limp onion that can be thrown away.

For the winter, Eastern hybrids have to be covered. If you cover them with peat to a height of about 20 cm, this will be enough, but in the spring they should be freed from peat (or other shelter) early, otherwise they will sprout prematurely and the bud buds will be frozen.

If purchased oriental bulbs are planted in a greenhouse in early spring, they will naturally bloom earlier. Since lilies easily tolerate transplantation into in bloom, then they can be planted in open ground at the moment intensive growth buds. The main thing is not to damage the roots when replanting and not to let them bend upward. In this case, it is possible to do without botrytis, since flowering will occur at the end of July. But, of course, you will have to cover it for the winter. In the spring, do not remove the peat; as soon as the sprouts appear, dig it up and transfer it back to the greenhouses. It is interesting that all lilies (as well as many other flowers) with the help of “Zircon” can be enhanced and even changed to a darker color of the flowers. So, yellow lilies can have flowers brown. For peonies and roses, make white flowers pink, and pink flowers dark crimson. To do this, dissolve the entire Zircon capsule in 1 liter of water and spray the plants at the moment of bud formation. However, you should know that such entertainment is not very useful for plants. Therefore, you should not use Zircon in high concentrations every year on the same plants, although these are very interesting experiments.

At the same time, it is necessary to dig up and replant lilies of the type Asian hybrids. Each nest formed over several years is dug out entirely. At the same time, you should know that lilies can deviate from the bulb, and therefore start digging the nest away from the stems, otherwise you can cut the bulbs with a shovel or damage them with a pitchfork. The soil must be shaken off the roots and the bulbs carefully separated with your hands. If the upper scales are rotten or covered with brown spots, they should be separated and discarded. Lilies are not dried; on the contrary, they should be transplanted to a new place immediately after digging. The only thing that can be done is to hold them for 30 minutes before planting in a solution of Maxim, Fitosporin or pink potassium permanganate. If you have not prepared a place for planting them, you can, after slightly trimming the roots, keep the bulbs for a short time in boxes or open plastic bags in damp peat or moss. Bulbs easily lose their viability when the roots dry out. Therefore, when purchasing planting material, pay attention to the condition of the roots of the bulbs. If the roots have dried out, you should not buy the bulb. Bulbs are also planted in August, but you can also plant them in the spring. By the way, all types of lilies can be propagated from healthy bulb scales. They need to be separated from the mother bulb, stuck into the sand with the bottom part and watered with “Kornevin”.

Place the jar on top. Water constantly directly on top of the jars. This is best done in a greenhouse.

6. Feed autumn asters, gladioli, heleniums, rudbeckias, gaillardias, dahlias, roses with potassium and phosphorus fertilizers(one tablespoon of each per 10 liters of water per 10 sq. m).

7. U blooming roses In August, fading flowers should not be removed so as not to cause the formation of new shoots.

8. Fading flowers should be constantly removed from annuals to prolong flowering. Only a few of these flowers are left to receive their seeds. Let me remind you that hybrids do not produce full-fledged offspring, so it makes no sense to collect seeds from them.

9. Take care of perennials and biennials early dates flowering (daisies, armeria, saxifrage, primrose, liverwort, alyssum), as well as about ground cover plants. They formed numerous new sockets. To plant, replant and propagate them, you need to dig them up (except for groundcovers) entirely, disassemble them, breaking the rhizomes with your hands, and plant them. This is especially true for primroses, since these plants are young plants. If you don't divide them every two years, they will simply disappear. The same applies to delphiniums. They must be replanted every three years, otherwise you risk losing them. Groundcovers produce rosettes at the ends of their whiskers. It is enough to cut off the rooted rosettes from the mother plant and plant them in a new place without disturbing the mother plant.