Irises, which translates as “rainbow,” are also affectionately called “killer whales” and “cockerels” by the people. They add originality and sophistication to any flower garden. Carrying out the necessary care for irises after flowering, you can see beautiful flowers already next year, and from some varieties even twice per season.

Features of caring for irises after flowering

When the irises have bloomed, the main care consists of watering if necessary, several types of pruning and autumn feeding.

Watering mode

Additional hydration of irises is required in case of dry summers or lack of moisture during the flowering period. When the plant has finished flowering, watering is not advisable - during this period, dry matter accumulates in the roots or, in some species, in the bulbs. Excessive moisture leads to water retention in the root system. This has an adverse effect on wintering and leads to freezing of the iris in open ground. In case of a rainy summer, it is even covered from excess moisture.

Rules for autumn pruning of irises

The first pruning of irises is carried out after the flowers have withered. For convenience, use garden shears and remove the inflorescences with the receptacle at a distance of 2 cm from the bud. To remove wilted flowers in a timely manner, check the bushes twice a week. If planting with seeds is planned in the future, then several flowers are left for the ovary of the seed capsule. The flowering shoot is completely removed after flowering, leaving 2 cm from the soil surface.

Feeding irises in autumn

Fertilizing in the fall stimulates the formation of flowering shoots the following year. A month after flowering, a complex of potassium-phosphorus fertilizers is added to the soil. For one bush, dissolve 15 g in 5 liters of water. This is better than fertilizing with manure, which provokes the development of root rot. Nitrogen overfeeding is also dangerous for flowers. It leads to foliage growth and a decrease in the number of buds. Irises bloom poorly in tennis areas and in highly acidic soils. You can lower it by adding fluff lime to the soil, dolomite flour, chalk or wood ash.

Iris diseases

Not all varieties of irises are disease resistant. Root rotting in the spring and rotting during the rainy season in the summer are especially dangerous.

Wet (bacterial) rot. Appears due to excess nitrogen, dampness in spring or summer. As a result of the disease, the bases of 1-2 leaves soften and begin to emit bad smell, the damage goes deep into the root. Diseased areas should be cut out and powdered with antibiotics (doxycycline, lincomycin, penicillin). Dry rot (fusarium). Fungal disease occurs in wet weather. Gray-brown, odorless spots form on the surface of the rhizome, and the roots dry out. Remove the lesion, treat the root with 20% formalin and, after drying, replant. For prevention in the spring, “Fundazol” and “Ditan M-45” will be useful. Gray rot. In spring the plant grows slowly; in summer the foliage dies off. In humid times, the roots become moldy at the base of the leaves. The rhizomes must be removed with a clod of earth. For fighting they use “Maxim”, “Topaz”, “Oksikhom”.

Winter hardiness of iris

Of the variety of varieties, only a few feel good in cold, not always snowy winters and cool, rainy summers. Caring for irises after flowering is aimed at increasing the winter hardiness of the roots. To do this, they create opportunities for the accumulation of nutrients in the roots, prolonging the growing season:

• shorten the flowering period by removing wilted flowers;
• reduce the dose of nitrogen in fertilizing;
• reduce watering;
• covered with special material.

Covering with film from rain and autumn feeding Potassium-phosphorus fertilizers lead to the outflow of water from the roots and help their maturation.

Based on frost resistance, irises are divided into varieties that are resistant, less resistant and not viable. Growing the latter is desirable only in southern regions with warm winters or winter storage bulbs in a cool place.

Preparing iris for winter

Sometimes a winter with little snow and low temperatures provokes freezing even of frost-resistant varieties. To prevent this, they are preparing for winter. Old flowers with rhizomes protruding from the ground are covered with a layer of soil and 10 cm of mulch, peat or sand on top.

1. Be sure to cover young plants transplanted in summer.
2. If the weather is changeable: either cold or warm, the irises are in no hurry to cover.
3. A thick layer of cover can lead to damping off of the roots.
4. For the winter, the flower is covered with a layer of spruce branches or similar material 10-15 cm in height.
5. In the spring, there is no rush to remove the shelter so that frosts do not damage the plant. But it is highly advisable to lift it so that the flower does not fall off.

Do I need to dig up irises?

Waterlogging of the soil can negatively affect the growth of irises. The danger lies in rotting of the roots, which can lead to the death of the plant. Therefore, flowers are planted in well-drained soil, where water is well absorbed. Irises mature in spring or summer during the rainy season, so bulbous varieties are dug up for storage after flowering when the foliage turns yellow. Formation of a bush with planting of other varieties is carried out in August, every 3-4 years. To do this, the flower is removed from the ground and the bush is divided with a sharp knife. The wounds are powdered with crushed activated carbon, wood ash.

Caring for bulbous irises

Some varieties of irises are dug up in the summer to be planted in the ground in the fall or spring. IN middle lane In Russia, planting dates in the fall depend on the onset of cold weather. The time to plant bulbous irises is dry, warm, during Indian summer. More often this is September, early October, the main thing is that there are at least 3 weeks left before frost sets in. Then the plant bulbs will have time to produce small roots and will be ready for wintering.

The decision whether to dig up for the winter depends on the frost resistance of the variety and the ability to provide necessary conditions storage or wintering. If plants do not winter well outdoors, it is better to keep them indoors until spring. Only bulbous varieties are suitable for storage. In cool conditions they will survive until spring planting without any problems. Before planting for the winter, iris bulbs are dried for 2-4 weeks at a temperature of 25-30°C and a humidity of 60-80%. Then store in a dry, cool room with a temperature of 5-15°C (on the balcony, in the basement) in one of the following ways:

• each root is first wrapped in paper or cloth;
• buried in a box with sawdust or peat.

A container for planting is also used. First, the roots are shortened and treated with a manganese solution. Once dried, planted in the ground.

Irises are perfect for any flower bed, rockery, alpine slide. And in order for them to bloom next year, it is necessary to properly prune, prepare for winter and ensure the safety of rhizomes or bulbs in the winter-spring period.

Irises are often planted in flower beds because, thanks to their variety of colors and graceful shape, they stand out against the background of other flowers. In general, irises are unpretentious, but in order to enjoy their beauty every year, you need to provide them with a safe winter. In this article we will tell you how to prepare irises for winter and what you will need for this event.

To properly prepare plants for winter, you need to perform a set of care procedures in the fall. In order for the iris to safely survive even severe frosts, pruning is done first.

Trimming and cleaning

Plants are prepared properly before covering. The basis of the procedure is pruning the leaves and flowers of plants, ensuring optimal wintering. Its purpose is to prevent the development of seeds. This helps conserve nutrients that would otherwise be wasted on seed maturation. In addition, the wind carries the seeds throughout the area, and in the spring you may find irises grown in “wrong” places.

What is being removed? The first step is to trim the dried foliage. The operation prevents the appearance of pests that overwinter in it. Flowers along with peduncles and seed boxes are also removed. Peduncles are cut at the root, flowers can be trimmed or torn off, dried stems are cut at a height of 3 cm, and leaves - 13-15 cm.

Do not trim green leaves. They allow your beauties to accumulate the nutrients they need to survive the winter successfully. Wait until the plants have completely bloomed, the leaves wither and wither, and completely fall to the ground. It is recommended to carry out the procedure in October, but you also need to take into account the weather conditions in your area. If frosts occur earlier than expected, take care to prepare the plants in advance.

Thus, the procedure involves cleaning the flower from all unnecessary elements, leaving only a short stem, leaf trimmings and root. Do not be afraid to prune, because with the arrival of spring the iris will come to life again.

Fertilizer application

This procedure is mandatory, since applying fertilizers helps plants accumulate nutrients for wintering. This will also ensure abundant flowering in the spring.

What do they contribute? There are two options - phosphorus-potassium fertilizers or complex fertilizer.

1. First option. Phosphorus and potassium are used because they help the flower strengthen its immunity and form a sufficient number of buds in the coming season. For feeding you will need 45-60 g of superphosphates and 25-30 g of potassium salt for each square meter. Pre-moisten the soil under the flowers, and then simply sprinkle fertilizer and loosen the soil after the procedure.
2. The second option is simpler. It is necessary to dilute the fertilizer with water in the proportion specified in the instructions. Irises are watered with this solution.

Video: “Preparing irises for winter”

From this video you will learn how to properly prepare irises for winter period.

Shelter of flowers

A novice gardener may have doubts: is it necessary to cover irises for the winter and in what cases is such work necessary? It all depends on several factors:

1. Variety There are frost-resistant varieties of this flower that tolerate frost relatively easily and do not require shelter. Delicate varieties will definitely need shelter.
2. Region. IN southern regions there is no need to cover the flowers. But in cold areas this procedure is necessary.

Below we will consider methods of shelter and other nuances.

To insulate or not

There are a number of varieties that can withstand wintering relatively easily and therefore do not require shelter. Wild species that tolerate cold well include Siberian iris, bristly iris, oriental iris, and yellow iris. Among the varieties resistant to low temperatures, we highlight the following:

• Webesh;
• Dipute Nomblo;
• White City;
• Isoline;
• Lieutenant A. Williamson;
• Perfecta.

They tolerate frost well without shelter. However, they are still mulched so that the root system is not damaged.

Hybrid varieties, for example, bearded iris and others like it, are less resistant to cold. Therefore, they are covered without fail. In addition, young flowers (regardless of the variety), as well as plants that were transplanted this year, are subject to shelter.

Shelter materials and techniques

It is important to choose dry material, otherwise, under the influence of moisture, the irises will rot and rot before spring arrives. Fallen leaves and straw are absolutely not suitable. Although some recommend using oak leaves because they absorb moisture well.

Suitable material is spruce branches or wooden boards, from which they construct a box and cover the plants with it. It is also recommended to use peat or humus as a covering material.

There should be a ten-centimeter layer of soil above the bulbs and roots, and on top they are covered with the selected material. It is important not to start the procedure too early, otherwise the roots may dry out. You need to remove the shelter in a timely manner; you should not do this immediately after the first warming, as unexpected frosts will ruin your efforts.

Shelter of irises in different regions of the country

As we mentioned earlier, in the southern regions of our country, irises are only mulched and not covered. Such regions are those where the temperature does not drop too low and there is a lot of snow that does not melt until spring.

But in cold parts of the country it is imperative to cover the flowers. Such regions include the Leningrad region, the Moscow region and the entire central zone. There are strong temperature changes and strong winds here. complete absence snow. The covering material must be dense to protect the plants from the icy air. In the Urals, Siberia and other cold regions of Russia, it is generally better not to choose very delicate and capricious varieties for planting, or to cover them very carefully, pouring a dense layer of mulch on the roots and covering them with thick insulation on top.

So, we have looked at the main features of pruning and other measures to prepare irises for winter. Now you know what to do. And let next spring your garden will become even more attractive.

Gardeners love irises for their amazing flower shape and beautiful combinations shades. Radiant white fades to sky blue and deep purple at the tips. Yellow, burgundy, blue, they refresh the garden and give a bright contrast with the greenery. Proper preparation It is not particularly difficult to prepare irises for winter and is the same for all the variety of varieties.

Caring for irises in autumn and preparing for winter

In the southern regions of our country, all varieties of irises winter well, and in the middle zone and in the north it is recommended to grow frost-resistant varieties, zoned undersized. Bulbous iridodictiums, rhizomatous dwarf bearded, English medium-growing, as well as tall wild beardless varieties tolerate cold better than heat-loving Japanese and Spanish, tall bearded varieties.

Irises are loved for their unusual color combinations.

Feeding and watering

Starting from the second half of summer, the application of nitrogen fertilizers should be stopped, and at the end of August, watering and weeding should be limited so as not to stimulate active growth culture. Bulbous varieties It is not recommended to water at all and it is advisable to cover it from rain.

Autumn feeding will help the plants gain strength and nutrients necessary for a successful winter; it should be done at least two weeks before the first frost. Phosphorus is very useful for irises potash fertilizers, you can also take complex ones.

They are used like this:

• complex formulations are diluted in the proportion of 1 tbsp. l. for 10 liters of water and water one liter of the prepared solution under each bush;
• dry granules are poured and slightly sunk into the soil around the plants, and when watering or raining, nutrients will gradually flow into root system;
• ash is not only rich minerals, but also protects plantings from rotting.

If the autumn turns out to be rainy, then the cut stems are not watered. Irises do not tolerate organic matter well, so it is not recommended to use them for feeding. chicken droppings or mullein.

Planting and transplanting

It is better to plant and replant irises in an elevated, open and illuminated place where water does not stagnate and in well-drained soil. The most suitable period for this work is until mid-September, so that the seedlings have time to adapt and take root. The best option for planting - slightly acidic loamy soil.

Two weeks before transplanting, irises do not need to be watered or fertilized. Having retreated 25 cm from the stem, carefully remove the plant along with the roots and divide it into parts with a sharp, clean knife, and immediately sprinkle the cut with ash for disinfection.

It is imperative to dry and disinfect the seedlings; to do this, you need to hold them for 20–25 minutes in a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate.

An earthen mound is poured into a planting hole 10 cm deep and the baby iris is placed on top, then the roots are straightened and sprinkled with earth, leaving the root collar above the soil surface, then the fresh seedling is watered.

To plant irises, you should choose a well-lit place.

By planting bushes every 3–5 years, you can protect the crop from degeneration of varietal characteristics.

Trimming

After flowering, it is important to completely remove dried flower stalks to prevent the formation and sowing of seeds and to direct beneficial substances to strengthen the plant’s immunity for a comfortable winter.

For pruning, you can use pruning shears or special garden shears.

It is better to trim foliage in the northern regions in October, two weeks before the first frost. In the south, this is the beginning or middle of November, when the leaves are completely dry and the process of photosynthesis in the above-ground part is completed. Pruning is carried out with pruning shears or garden shears to a height of up to 10 cm, giving the shape of a cone.

The leaves need to be collected and burned so that diseases and larvae of garden pests do not overwinter with the plants.

Digging up the bulbs

If, despite shelter, even winter-hardy varieties freeze, it is better to dig up the bulbs and put them in a cool, dry place until spring. This work is carried out after the leaves have completely dried and the bulbs have ripened. The dug up planting material should be disinfected or treated with a fungicide solution, and then dried at a temperature of about 25º C and stored for storage after a month.

In cold regions, it is better to dig up the bulbs and store them until spring

If the plantings are frozen in the spring, they can be saved and treated:

1. Remove all rotted tissue.
2. Wash the remaining parts in a saturated solution of potassium permanganate.
3. Sprinkle the plantings with ash.

Mulching and covering

In the southern regions, gardeners often do not cover irises, but in the middle zone and in the north they should be covered aboveground part and root system; rhizomatous varieties especially need this, the roots of which come close to the surface of the earth and may not tolerate winter frosts. For protection, mulch up to a height of 2–30 cm. Materials suitable for mulching:

• well-rotted compost;
• peat;
• sawdust;
• dry soil mixed with sand.

Irises are mulched in dry, warm weather.

In areas with a more severe climate, it is advisable to cover the plants with spruce branches, a special covering material. The optimal time for this is the end of November, when the rains have passed and frosts begin.

To cover irises it is better to use spruce branches or special material

Well-groomed and gained strength, irises will overwinter well and begin active growth early in the spring if gardeners take care of fertilizing, pruning and other preparatory measures in the fall.

Many gardeners love garden iris, which is easy to care for and can easily withstand wintering. Difficulties can only bring hybrid varieties. Today we will talk about the features of caring for these flowers in the fall.

About winter hardiness of irises

The most winter-hardy varieties are domestic selection, as well as foreign ones that have stood the test of time. The most vulnerable are tall plants. Most species have good protection from frost with a 30-centimeter snow cover. In the Moscow region, dwarf and medium-sized irises can overwinter completely without shelter. It is not winter frosts that cause more harm, but spring frosts, since young buds may die.

Timely preparation for winter affects the quality of wintering.

Watering mode

It is recommended to keep bulbous varieties in dry conditions after flowering., watering sparingly if necessary. Since the root system of the plant is located on the surface of the soil, a large number of moisture threatens to appear dark spots on the foliage and their complete decay. In addition, the death of the flower is not excluded.

Purpose and rules for autumn pruning of irises

After the bud has bloomed and dried out, it is removed. This process prevents the formation of seeds, the ripening of which takes a lot of energy from the plant. As a result, the number of flowers on one plant will increase, and repeated flowering will form on some types of irises.

A bush without faded buds looks much more beautiful, even if flowering has already stopped. After all, wilted flowers from irises acquire Brown color which spoils appearance plants. Some varieties of iris can spread throughout the site by self-seeding, thereby creating additional difficulties in removing them in unnecessary places.

What to do with irises after flowering (video)

Some gardeners prefer to preserve the ovules of some varieties because of their attractive looking. For example, beautiful seeds found in stinking iris and leopard lily.

Autumn pruning requires several simple rules:

1. Removal of flowers must be done using fingers or scissors. It is important to ensure that the scissors are clean and sharp. You need to pinch off or cut off the flower immediately behind the bud. Both dry petals and the receptacle should be removed, since it is from this part that the ovule develops.
2. There may be buds that have not yet opened on the stem being treated, so you should carefully remove dried flowers. Some varieties are known for their rapid color change. Such irises require frequent inspection and removal of no longer needed buds.
3. After the plant finishes its flowering period, it is necessary to remove the flower stem, otherwise it may rot. Many species have a fleshy stem. It should be cut at the very base, leaving 2.5 cm above ground level.
4. When cutting stems, it is important to leave the green leaves intact, since with their help the plant transfers the energy needed for wintering to the root system. The foliage should wilt on its own. Withered brown leaves should be cut at a level of 15 cm from the ground.

The cut areas must be sprinkled with crushed charcoal.

Feeding irises in autumn

In the fall, especially after transplantation, when the plant forms a root, it needs to be fertilized with potassium and phosphorus agents (no more than 40 g per sq. m). Fertilizing seedlings is also important for collateral abundant flowering for the next season. Irises do not tolerate manure, therefore it is not recommended to use this type of fertilizer.

The use of a large number of drugs leads to abundant growth of greenery, which harms the quality of wintering. After all the leaves of the plant have been cut off, it must be covered with peat or dry oak leaves. Careful care and proper feeding in moderation guarantees annual lush flowering.

Planting irises in autumn

Duration autumn planting is about one and a half months. It is important to time the planting so that the iris takes root before frost.

Benefits of autumn planting irises

The characteristics of the plant's growing season influence the choice of planting time. After the end of winter, plants with healthy and developed roots begin to fast growth leaves. IN summer months there is a growth of new links with young and fragile buds, which are easily damaged during planting.

Many gardeners consider the autumn months to be the most suitable time for planting. At this time, the plant has a fairly developed root, and the buds have already become lignified and strengthened. After transplantation, the iris will take root and immediately begin to grow when the spring thaw arrives.

How do irises reproduce (video)

Timing and technology for planting irises in autumn

Before planting the plant, you need to choose a suitable area, which should be open and sunny, because both the above-ground part and the starchy root need light. The bed should have a slight slope to the south. So it will go away excess moisture, and also evenly illuminate the entire planting area.

Irises love slightly acidic loams. During digging, the following must be added to the soil:

• with increased acidity of the soil - ash or dolomite flour;
• for heavy soil - sand;
• for light sandy conditions – clay;
• Rotted humus is needed to increase fertility.

Since nitrogen fertilizers activate the growth of greenery, preventing the plant from preparing for the winter period, it is not recommended to use them during autumn planting.

A week before the planned autumn planting, the beds should be prepared so that the soil has time to settle and compact. As a result, the seedlings will not go too deep into the ground.

1. Planting material You need to dry it first.
2. When dividing the bush independently, on each division you should leave a rhizome up to 10 cm long, at least one fan of leaves and replacement buds.
3. The leaves need to be cut off a third of their length.
4. If desired, the seedling can be neutralized by placing it in a manganese solution for a quarter of an hour.

Planting pits should not be very deep so that the root collar is above the soil level. After a couple of weeks, you can check the quality of rooting of the plant. If you pull it slightly, the root system will hold the plant in the ground, preventing it from being pulled out.

Covering irises as the main way to prepare for winter

In southern regions with a mild climate, where there are no severe frosts, irises do not require special preparation for winter. Otherwise, without appropriate shelter, the flower may die. If snow falls early and persists until spring, only young bushes can be covered, leaving winter-hardy varieties without shelter.

Very often during the summer the top layer of soil is washed away by rain, exposing the roots. To protect them from vulnerability, in the fall it is necessary to pour a layer of earth, peat or humus on top.

Paws can serve as a material for shelter coniferous trees or other dry material found in the garden. It is better not to use straw or fallen leaves that are prone to overheating, since various diseases can develop on the plant and mold may appear.

How to prepare irises for winter (video)

You should not rush to remove the shelter with the arrival of the first thaw. If frost returns, the plant may be damaged. If you want to supply oxygen, the shelter can be carefully turned.

Irises look beautiful both alone and together with other flowers. Not all varieties bloom the first year after planting, so you should be patient and continue to care for the plants. At 3–4 years old, the iris will definitely delight you with its bright colors.

Irises are not capricious flowering plants. But to achieve regular flowering during summer season, flower growers will have to carry out some agrotechnical measures in the fall and prepare these rhizomatous and bulbous perennials for the coming winter.

Thanks to the constant work of breeders, flower growers are offered a large number of varieties and hybrids of these flowers, both rhizomatous and bulbous. However, for some reason this particular view flowering plants included in the group of flowers that are slightly frost-resistant, constantly freeze out in frosty winters and are poorly adapted to the climatic conditions of most regions of Russia.

Therefore, beginning flower growers often hesitate to grow flowers in their flower beds, believing that they will not take root in their garden. But this is a mistaken opinion. Irises will overwinter well in open ground if measures are taken correctly in the fall to prepare the plants for the autumn-winter period.

What needs to be done to prepare irises for winter will be discussed below.

Features of caring for irises in autumn and preparing for winter

In autumn it is possible and necessary to spend next works on caring for irises and preparing them for winter:

• pruning;
• feeding;
• transplantation (if necessary);
• shelter for the winter.

Each of these procedures will be described in detail below.

Pruning irises in autumn

Pruning irises in the fall is an important procedure. It helps prevent the development of seeds in the plant; their maturation will inhibit further flowering of these perennials, as it takes away some of the nutrients. In addition, ripened seeds will self-sow throughout the garden; subsequently, irises can grow in the most unexpected places. In autumn, dried leaves should also be removed., this preventative measure will protect plants from pests that can overwinter in it.

Do I need to prune irises for winter in the fall?

Irises must be pruned in the fall so that the plant remains without dried above-ground parts for the winter. The need for this procedure is obvious - dried flowers are removed along with peduncles, withered foliage in which pests can hide. In this case, it will be easier to cover the irises for the winter.

When is the best time to prune irises for the winter?

The procedure for pruning irises is carried out in the fall after the plants have completely bloomed and the peduncles and leaves have completely dried. It is not recommended to remove green foliage, since in the above-ground part of the plant after flowering the process of photosynthesis continues, allowing the root system (or bulbs) to recover after active flowering, and also to stock up nutrients before the onset of frost. This reserve increases the resistance of the root system to frost.

Therefore, most optimal time When pruning irises for the winter - October, local climatic conditions should be taken into account, because any plants must be pruned several weeks before the onset of frost.

Pruning irises after flowering for the winter

After the irises bloom (ending in early autumn), all dried flowers should be trimmed, and all ripening seed pods should be removed. You should also remove the stems and flower stalks after the plants have completely bloomed. The foliage is removed after it becomes withered and lies completely on the ground.

Video: pruning irises after flowering for the winter

How to prune irises for the winter

You should have sharp garden shears or pruning shears for pruning.– blunt garden tools can damage the stems, which will contribute to the rotting of the remaining above-ground parts of these flowers. Dried flowers and ovules can be trimmed or simply plucked off by hand. Flower stalks of plants are cut off at the root.

Dried stems and flower stalks are trimmed with garden shears, leaving stems about 3 cm high.

Withered foliage is cut off at a height of about 13-15 cm, giving the plant a cone-shaped shape. The foliage is cut off in the first ten days of October.

Care after pruning

Typically, after flowering has finished, such plants should not be watered frequently; a couple of waterings during the autumn season are sufficient. And if autumn is rainy, then these perennials should not be watered additionally.

Important! These plants do not tolerate well organic fertilizers, so they should not be fertilized with manure or chicken droppings.

The best fertilizers for irises – mineral. However, it should be remembered that nitrogen is applied to these flowers only before flowering begins. But in the fall, two weeks before pruning or two weeks after it, these flowering perennials are fertilized with a complex mineral fertilizer, which contains any potassium salts and superphosphate. However, it should be remembered that if fertilizing is applied after pruning, then at least 14 days must remain before the onset of frost.

Sheltering irises for the winter

Wintering these flowering perennials should be successful, therefore, when preparing plants, you should take into account the climatic conditions of the area, how cold or little snow the winters are. But recently the climate in most regions of our country is unpredictable. Therefore, it is better to plant delicate varieties in the southern regions. And for the middle zone, Volga region, Urals and Siberia, select frost-resistant iris hybrids, which have been tested for resistance to frost in a particular region. And it is better to purchase hybrids grown by Russian breeders for planting in these regions.

In the southern regions, plants of any varieties and hybrids are not covered for the winter. But in colder regions, it is necessary to know exactly which types of irises growing in the flower garden require mandatory shelter for the winter.

How to properly cover irises for the winter

Frost-resistant varieties do not need to be completely covered for the winter. But all flowers planted or transplanted this season must be covered before the onset of cold weather.

But even if the aboveground part of these flowering perennials is not covered for the winter, then they the root system still requires shelter. Therefore, in the fall, the ground around these flowers is covered with a layer of mulch 20-25 cm thick. Dry soil, low-lying peat, and well-rotted humus can be used as mulching material.

The above-ground part of less frost-resistant varieties of irises should be covered with spruce branches or other similar material, which must be dry.

Video: how and with what to cover irises for the winter

Something to remember! You cannot use straw, hay, or leaves to cover irises for the winter. This type of shelter may rot when the weather thaws. As a result, mold may develop on the above-ground parts of these flowers, and various diseases(mainly fungal).

Also n You should not rush to cover irises for the winter. If the weather is quite changeable - either cold or thaw, too large layer covering material can lead to damping off of the roots. And as a result, the plant may die.

In the spring you should not remove the shelter from these flowering perennials too early, otherwise new frosts may damage the flowers. But it is advisable to slightly lift the spruce branches to ventilate these bushes a little.

Features of sheltering irises for the winter in different regions: Moscow region, Volga region, Siberia and the Urals

IN different regions The thickness of the shelter and its layer depend on specific climatic conditions. Therefore, the nuances of preparing crops for winter in different regions of our country should be taken into account.

Video: preparing irises for winter

In the middle zone (Moscow region) Winters are quite cold, but there is not always enough snow. Therefore, you can cover the root system of irises with a layer of dry soil when the thermometer drops below 0 C. And the spruce branches should be placed on top of the frozen ground.

In the Volga region Winters are often unpredictable - there is warm weather for too long (until the end of November), and then frosts can strike - but there is no snow. Therefore, it is necessary to monitor the weather and cover the irises on time.

In the Urals Where winters are cold, it is imperative to cover all types of plants (even frost-resistant ones).

In Siberia Irises are usually covered for the winter so that the inside of the shelter is dry. To do this, spruce branches or other covering material are covered with a wooden box or an ordinary bucket. And if snow falls from above during the winter, it will serve as additional insulation during periods of severe frost.

Caring for irises during the fall and preparing these flowers for winter are important activities, without which it is impossible to achieve active flowering of these beautiful perennials in subsequent seasons.

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