ElenaRudenkaya (Builderclub expert)

Special thanks to you for doing the geology, since, unfortunately, everything is usually done by guesswork. Your report clearly states that 1.1 m of vegetation layer needs to be covered, and then stable hard soil. And that the standard freezing depth is 1.6 m. According to the standards, the foundation is made 10 cm below the freezing depth, respectively 1.7 m. Yes, TISE should be more economical.

1. TISE piles should be buried no more than 2.0-2.5 m (preferably 2.5 m), with a low or high monolithic grillage. A grillage is a monolithic belt that connects all piles into a single system and evenly distributes the load from the house to the base.

The foundation parameters are as follows:

Pile with a diameter of 250-300 mm, with an extension of 500 mm. The length of the pile is 2-2.5 m. The grillage is 400-450 mm wide and 500-600 mm high. If you make the grillage high, then the height will be 500 mm; if it is low, then 600 mm.

Pillar reinforcement: 4 rods of longitudinal reinforcement with a diameter of 10 mm, connected by transverse reinforcement with a diameter of 8 mm every 30 cm. Or 3 rods of longitudinal reinforcement with a diameter of 12 mm, connected by transverse reinforcement with a diameter of 8 mm every 30 cm.

Pile column reinforcement scheme

The monolithic grillage is reinforced: 4 rods of longitudinal reinforcement with a diameter of 12 mm, connected by transverse reinforcement with a diameter of 10 mm every 30 cm. It is better to bend the transverse reinforcement clamps, rather than cut them and make them from 4 pieces. The distance between the reinforcement and the edge of the concrete is 5 cm.

The grillage is done under everyone load-bearing walls(the same as piles) and the width is supported based on the thickness of the walls.

A low grillage can be made provided that you add sand under the grillage. It should be noted that in heaving soils (on loams), the grillage should “hang” on piles at a height of 150-200 mm from the soil surface, which is why a pile protruding from the ground is made (soil heaving can reach 15 cm in moisture-saturated soils). But, if immediately after building the house you make a blind area, or even better, if during the construction process you make a rough blind area to drain sedimentary water, then there will be no point in raising the grillage. Scheme:

Scheme of a high (hanging) grillage

First, a reinforcement frame is installed in the well and the reinforcement is released, then the pile is poured, and then the grillage formwork is installed after the piles have hardened and gained strength.

There is no need to backfill under the pillars. Only under the grillage. If the grillage is hanging, you don’t have to add it either, but if you want to put it on the ground, then it’s better to fill it with sand, since the clay soil will heave and can tear the grillage (the force when clay heaves is approximately 150 tons per m2, and this is a lot ). To install the backfill, you need to dig a small trench (where the grillage is marked). In width - the width of the grillage. The depth is about 20 cm. Pour 10 cm of river sand and 10 cm of crushed stone, fraction 30-50 mm, onto the bottom (compact).

Scheme of backfill for a low grillage

Regarding questions from our readers, we have written many useful articles, I advise you to read this article in full DIY frame house. Foundation for a frame house. With expansion the pile has best characteristics, but they are not made to such a depth as 2-2.5 m.

Such a pile foundation will easily support your cottage. Next, I will sketch out the pile placement diagram for you on your own diagram. Remember that piles must be installed in the corners and intersections of load-bearing walls, and the distance between them should be no more than 2 m. 1.5 m is better. It is better to do the foundation for the porch immediately, without breaking it with the main house, the same piles and the same grillage.

There are about 45 piles here, but you can reduce their number by placing them so that they are not under window openings there were piles under the windows. Due to the fact that there are many windows on the plan, I arranged them based on this. You can make a simple distance of 1.5-2 m, but keep in mind that a pile must be placed at all intersections of load-bearing walls and corners.

You can use a hollow brick for the plinth, but don’t forget that the grillage itself is already a plinth and you can do without it in this case, or raise 3-4 rows of bricks, but lay 2 layers of roofing felt between the grillage and the brick. To prevent the brick from drawing moisture from the grillage. Yes, it is possible to make internal non-load-bearing partitions from 120 mm brick, but it is better to make a load-bearing wall from a homogeneous material, since the weight and density of blocks and bricks are different and the shrinkage will also be different. Here you cannot connect the walls with masonry or mesh, it can tear.

2. But I’m usually in favor of floors on the ground. There is less fuss with them, and then you can put tiles and a warm floor, a more permanent floor. I don’t understand why you think it’s the other way around...

If you insulate the floor along joists or the floor over the ground, then the comfort will be the same; without insulation it is not comfortable. Wooden wood, of course, is warmer in itself and cannot be completely covered with insulation (usually mineral wool is placed between the joists; the wood must be ventilated. Only in wooden floors Mice may settle in, but the screed is still stronger and will not hold together over time like wood. In general, the choice here is also up to you. It is impossible to make a warm floor using joists. In the article that I give above, at the very bottom the foundations for the support pillars are completely drawn.

It doesn’t work out very well on partitions either; you need to make your own reinforced ribbon foundations for all partitions (load-bearing and non-load-bearing) (albeit not to the full freezing depth, but definitely 60 cm). Then the partitions are removed, and after that a wooden floor is made in each room. Bricks or blocks cannot be placed on a wooden floor (it does not support the load, even a 120 mm partition). Typically, plasterboard partitions rest on the village. floor. Therefore, of course, a screed is more practical.

6. We need, we need a Mauerlat. It also performs important functions like the armored belt. The first is to take the load from the beams and distribute it evenly onto the wall. And in the second case - to transfer loads from the rafters. This is in addition to convenient roof mounting.

Your option is not suitable, you are thinning the armored belt with such a design. There is no need to reduce the width by using polystyrene foam - you need to withstand the protective layer of the reinforcement. You need to remove the internal 75 mm GBB from the inside, you don’t need this. The height of the armored belt is 25 cm, it will be 30 cm in the diagram, but 25 will be enough for you. The diagram will be like this:

7. By the way, thickness outer wall We checked 400 mm of aerated concrete based on thermal conductivity in your region and everything is fine with you. As you planned, there is no need to insulate it, only armored belts and floors. Depending on what floor you choose and at what level, you can say whether you need to insulate the base or not.

8. I can redo the pile arrangement diagram if you don’t understand the principle. I can place the piles under the windows at the required distance, otherwise I was placing them last night. 45 piles is a lot, you can do less.

answer

A house made of aerated concrete is considered the most popular option today. Moreover, they are erecting it as for permanent residence, and for year-round. The wide demand for aerated concrete is explained by its low price, ease of use and high thermal insulation qualities. Houses made of aerated concrete can be one-story or two-story, with an attic, basement, garage and even a sauna.

House designs up to 100 meters

Projects for such buildings can be divided into three types: economy, middle, business classes. The choice of one option or another is made taking into account the financial capabilities of the customer.

Economy class

This category includes such projects as “completely economical” and “semi-economical”. The projects are small and cheap. They assume the presence one-story houses made of aerated concrete without and with an attic. If you choose the “very economical” category, then the house will include 15-20 m2. Such designs are often chosen by wealthy people when they want to see a guest house or bungalow on their property. But the less wealthy choose such a project for full-fledged housing.

Project one-story house from aerated concrete 100 m-2

The layout of such houses is very simple. They only have one interior partition and 2 rooms. One of them is residential, and the second is a kitchen and dining room. As for amenities, such projects do not provide them. Considering what it is used for concrete house– dachas, bungalows, guest house, its area can reach 5-15 m2.

If the project includes an attic, this will significantly expand the space in the house. When choosing a project with an attic, you can equip it as a bedroom, which will occupy all the space except the stairs. And the area of ​​20 m2, which remained below, is divided into a dining room, a hallway and a bathroom.

Middle class

One-story houses made of “middle class” aerated concrete can have an area of ​​40-50 m2. In this case, the area of ​​the attic is not taken into account.

So, let's consider the project of a 50 m2 house without an attic. It has 2 rooms - a bedroom and a large living room, a kitchen, a bathroom and an entrance hall. There are also additional options - a veranda and a garage. But what designs exist for a one-story house with a bay window and a garage, and what it looks like, can be seen in the photo

Middle class house

If you add an attic to the project, this will double the total area of ​​the house. At the same time, its cost will not increase much. Such a house will include 6-7 rooms. The first also contains a large hall, a kitchen, an office, a bathroom and a boiler room.

In the attic there will be separate rooms connected by a corridor. There can be bedrooms, a small hall and a bathroom here.

Business Class

The project of such a cottage may include the following rooms:

• large and spacious bedrooms with normal ceilings;
• living room and kitchen on the ground floor;
• Technical buildings;
• spacious living room with bay window;
• separate rooms that can be used as a wardrobe or office;
• full bathrooms, which can be located on the first or second floor;
• basement, which can be used for a technical room;
• garage, veranda, winter garden.

It will also be interesting to learn about how the first floor is covered in a house made of aerated concrete:

But this article will help you understand what it looks like and how you can make it yourself.

Projects for houses over 100 meters

If you are going to build houses from aerated concrete over 100 m, then this option is suitable for a large and wealthy family. House designs may include an attic, garage, basements and a terrace. The following projects are considered popular:

1. House area 62.2 m2. This is a one-story structure that includes two living rooms. On the ground floor there is a kitchen, hallway, hall and bathroom. And on the second there are 2 bedrooms with a dressing room. There is no garage in this project, but there is a second light. The roof is multi-pitched, made of bitumen tiles. But what they exist and what they look like. The photo and information from the article will help you understand.

   

   Size 62.2 m2

2. This is a one-story house with an attic. Its area is 52 m2. When laying the foundation, a monolithic strip was used. Bituminous shingles are used to cover the roof. Plaster will be used as facade finishing. There are 3 living rooms. On the ground floor there is a spacious hall, a kitchen, a dining room, a bathroom and a small office. In the attic there are 2 bedrooms, a storage room and a bathroom. There is no garage or second light. Photos and information will help you understand what a house made of aerated concrete with a garage looks like and how it can be built

   

   With an attic made of aerated concrete

3. This is a one-story house with an area of ​​53 m2. When laying the foundation, a tape is used monolithic foundation. Bitumen or metal tiles are used to cover the roof. There are 3 living rooms in the house, including 2 bedrooms and a spacious living room. On the main floor there is a dining room, a kitchen, a bathroom, a storage room, an office, and a hall. On attic floor In addition to the bedrooms, there is a bathroom and a dressing room. There is no garage and no second light. But this will help you understand what designs of houses made of aerated concrete with an attic look like, and what you should pay attention to during construction.

   

   Size 53 m-2

With sauna

A house made of aerated concrete is often equipped with a sauna. There are a sufficient number of such projects today, among which the most popular remain:

1. A one-story house with an area of ​​55 m2. During its construction, monolithic strip foundation. Metal tiles are used as roof covering. For exterior finishing applies facing brick, facade plaster or board. The house has 2 bedrooms, a spacious living room, a kitchen, a dining room, and 2 bathrooms. A sauna is an additional option. It is equipped with a stove with access from the corridor. Thus, it is possible to reduce the effort when heating the sauna. There is also a fireplace in the living room, where you can relax after a hard day's work.
2. When erecting this one-story house, a strip monolithic reinforced concrete foundation was used. The area of ​​the house is 86 m2. On the ground floor there is an office, a dressing room, a boiler room, a kitchen, an entrance hall and a dining room. There are 3 rooms on the second floor. There is a sauna, which includes a steam room and a relaxation room.
3. This house is one story. Can be used for temporary or permanent residence. During its construction, a strip monolithic foundation is used. The roof is pitched, made of metal tiles. There are 2 living rooms in it. There is also a kitchen, a dining room, a bathroom and a hall. Additional options include a sauna and a garage.

The video shows a project for a one-story house with a sauna made of aerated concrete:

Prices

If you decide to contact a special company to draw up a project, then you need to be prepared for a decent monetary outlay. Of course, the cost of the project will depend on the area of ​​the house, the number of rooms and additional options. average price is 4000-9000 rubles.

Houses made of aerated concrete today are presented in wide variations. When drawing up a project, each owner will be able to determine the number of rooms, area and number of floors. In addition, take into account the purpose for which the building will be used - temporary or permanent residence.

A one-story house made of aerated concrete, completed in 2 years in the Moscow region. The background is standard - I wanted my own Vacation home Outdoors. The budget and possibilities are limited, so we will get out.

Condition of the site in April after purchase. A shed was brought in, a well was dug, and a temporary electrical support was installed. Excavation work ahead.

General concept: “Second apartment in nature” - a full-fledged country house with the comfort of a city apartment, used year-round, on a par with an apartment in the city. That is, several days in the countryside, several days in the city, regardless of the time of year.

So, in the spring of 2012, after a long search, a plot of 6 acres was purchased in SNT, 70 km from the Moscow Ring Road. This is the best I could find at a price of 90 thousand rubles per hundred square meters. Of course, no one argues that 10 acres is better, let alone 20. But for this money it will be 120 km from the Moscow Ring Road. And I don’t want to spend more than 1 hour on the road from the entrance.

A dacha/house is new to me and my family; my parents never had a dacha, so I will learn everything from scratch. In the spring I began to study technologies and estimate the budget. I went to visit friends/acquaintances and looked at their houses under construction and completed.

I finally decided on the format. The house needs a permanent house, therefore frame and wooden houses disappear. My head is a mess of information received from all sides. We watched thousands of reports, dozens of videos, and listened to advice from “experts.” Only 2 years later did everything become so simple and understandable, when the understanding came that one should not listen to the OBS agency (One grandmother said), but simply look at everything from the point of view of physical and chemical processes.

Having looked at the “palaces” of friends and acquaintances of 150-200 square meters, who clutch their heads when it is necessary to heat and clean, and do not go up to the second floor at all, it became obvious that optimal area for a family of 3-4 people with rare visits of guests is within 80 square meters. And the second floor is generally useless - you can’t run up the stairs, and they take up a lot of space. Plus, if I was going to build it myself, then working at heights would be an adventure.

Building a house from aerated concrete is not exactly an easy undertaking, but compared to brick or the same log house, you will have to put in much less effort. We will build a simple one-story house on a strip foundation.

If you wish, you can change the characteristics of the building at your discretion - you just need to master the order of laying out the walls, all other activities are carried out as standard for houses made of any materials.

Characteristics of aerated concrete blocks (indicators)	Autoclaved aerated concrete (gas silicate)
Density, kg/m3	500
Compressive strength class	B 2.5-3
Frost resistance, cycles	F50
Relation to moisture	Requires protection
Relation to fire	Does not burn
Operational thermal conductivity, W/m*C	0,14
External wall thickness (Moscow region), m	0,5
Monolith Possibility	No

1. Band-saw.
2. Drill.
3. Hand saw.
4. Manual wall chaser.
5. Mixer.
6. Electric cutter.
7. Scraper bucket.
8. Carriages for glue.
9. Notched trowel.
10. Rubber hammer.
11. Sanding float (board).

Making the foundation

Marking the site

We remove everything that is in the way from the site, clear it and begin marking. To do this, we use reinforcing bars and rope.

We determine the axis of the future structure. We take a plumb line and mark the first corner of the foundation. Perpendicular to it, we pull the rope to the second and third corners of the building.

Using a square, mark the 4th corner. We measure the diagonals. If the length is the same, everything is fine, the angles match, you can hammer in the rods and pull the rope.

Similarly, we carry out internal markings of the base, departing from the external order 400 mm ( optimal value width for strip foundation).

We dig trenches around the perimeter of the house and under future internal walls.

Preparing the trenches

We find the lowest point on the site. From here we measure the depth of the hole. Small house can be built on a 40-centimeter tape. For the rest, focus on the features of the structure and the site as a whole (freezing depth, groundwater level).

Digging trenches

Important! The walls of the pit should be vertical and the bottom should be level. We check this with a plumb line and level.

Place a sand cushion at the bottom of the hole and compact it thoroughly. Such a pillow will help to evenly distribute the load on the base in the off-season. Recommended thickness – from 15 cm.

Pour crushed stone onto the sand and lay roofing felt.

Installing formwork

We assemble it from boards, plywood and other similar materials. We fasten the formwork elements using nails or screws.

Important! The height of the formwork is such that it rises above the ground level by at least 300 mm.

We stretch the fishing line along the inner perimeter of the formwork at the level of the upper edge of the future fill.

At the same stage, we think about the arrangement of openings for the entry of water supply and sewerage. To do this, we put in in the right places empty pipes and fill them with sand.

Laying the reinforcement

We take rods with a diameter of 12-14 m. We tie them into a mesh using flexible steel wire. Grid cells can have different size. The heavier the house, the smaller the side of the square should be. Most often, a mesh with cells of 20x20 cm is sufficient.

We make a grid according to the dimensions of the trench. Important! We leave 5-centimeter gaps between the laid reinforcing layer, the walls and the top of the trench, so that in the future all reinforcement will be guaranteed to be filled with concrete.

Pouring concrete

We multiply the width of the foundation by its length and height and determine the required volume of concrete. Prepare or order the mixture. For preparation we use the standard recipe:

• cement – ​​1 part;
• crushed stone - 5 parts;
• sand - 3 parts;
• water - to the desired consistency.

Fill in concrete mortar in even layers of approximately 200 mm, do not rush. We compact each layer of fill with a wooden tamper. We pour concrete to the level of the previously stretched rope in the formwork space.

We level the pouring surface using a trowel and pierce the concrete with reinforcement in several places. From the outside, carefully tap the formwork with a wooden hammer.

We give the foundation a month to gain strength. During this time, we cover the structure with polyethylene to protect it from precipitation, and in hot weather we spill it with water to prevent cracking.

Building walls

For construction in this example we use blocks with a tongue-and-groove design. They are simply more comfortable to carry with your hands. You can build from any other aerated blocks - the order of work does not change.

We first clean the upper part of the dried foundation from existing dirt and dust, and then cover it with a layer of roofing felt.

For the first row of luggage we use cement-sand mortar. It dries longer than special glue, and we will have the opportunity to adjust the evenness of the row layout. The minimum layer thickness is 10 mm. There are no maximum restrictions. This will allow you to even out differences in height without much effort.

We find the highest angle - we will build from it. We take a fishing line and mark the wall of the house. We lay the first gas block. Then we place a block at each remaining corner and stretch the rope between the building elements.

Be sure to check the evenness of each block. We lay out the first row of blocks around the perimeter of the house and in the places where the internal walls are being built.

Important! Remember about door openings. Naturally, we skip them.

We take polishing and carefully grind the surface of the starting row. Next, we will do this with each laid row. Thanks to this treatment, we will be able to apply the glue as evenly as possible.

We put the second, and after it the third row. We use special glue for laying gas blocks. We work as on the first row, starting from the corners. We tie the rows, moving them half a block - similar brickwork. The minimum permissible value of such a shift when laying aerated concrete is 80 mm.

To apply glue we use ladles with teeth. We install the blocks as close to each other as possible, as far as our fingers allow, and move them end to end. We check the evenness of the masonry with a level. If necessary, level the blocks using a rubber hammer. We work quickly and smoothly, because... The glue dries very quickly and it will be almost impossible to move the gas block.

Helpful advice! If, when laying the opening, it was not possible to reach the length of the entire gas block, we saw off the excess using a special saw or a simple hacksaw for wood.

Interfloor armored belt. Photo

We equip windows and window sills

In the example under consideration, the window sills have a height of 4 rows of masonry. We reinforce window openings after laying out the 3rd row. A wall chaser will help us with this.

In the place where the window opening is arranged, we cut 2 parallel lines. Their length should extend beyond the boundaries of the window by 300 mm on each side.

We place reinforcement bars in the grooves and secure them with cement-sand mortar. Ready! The wall for installing the window is reinforced.

Important! It is better not to block openings for installing windows. Of course, in the future they can be cut out, but this is a waste of time and effort.

Laying walls. In the photo, simultaneously with the laying of walls, decorative cladding brick

Making jumpers

Gradually we approached the lintels. These structures are needed to strengthen the section of the wall above the door and window openings. Without jumpers, the structure may simply collapse.

Then “permanent formwork” of three rows of blocks:
1. Outside, the block is 150 thick;
2. in the center is a block 150 thick, sawn in half lengthwise;
3. The inside is a block 100 mm thick.

We cut it into “squares” and tie reinforcing bars to them

You can either use ready-made U-shaped blocks (glue them to the required length, install them, lay down reinforcement and fill them with cement mortar) or make the formwork yourself.

For the manufacture of formwork, it is most convenient to use gas blocks 10 cm wide. We fasten the blocks with glue. If it is not possible to buy 10-centimeter blocks, we simply cut a regular gas block into 3 identical pieces.

We glue the blocks to the required length, make 3 longitudinal ditches with a wall chaser, lay reinforcing bars in them, pour cement mortar and give it a day to dry.

We install the jumpers with the side with the reinforcement facing down. We fill the gaps with gas blocks, if necessary, pre-cut to the required sizes.

Making an armored belt

After arranging the row with window lintels, we begin pouring the armored belt, also known as the seismic belt. The structure is made of reinforced concrete and ensures the integrity of the aerated concrete building.

We take 10-centimeter blocks and form them into formwork around the perimeter of the walls. We fill the ditch with reinforcement and pour cement mortar.

We embed metal pins into the armored belt for attaching the Mauerlat. We can make them from reinforcement. Even more convenient option– threaded studs. It is easier to attach the Mauerlat to them.

At this point the box at home is ready.

We have already installed the Mauerlat. It's time to install the rafters. At this stage, everything is individual - focus on the features of the chosen roofing structure.

Several options are available:

Regardless of the chosen roof structure, it must be equipped with insulating layers: hydro-, heat- and vapor barrier. In some cases (for example, when setting up residential attic) a layer of soundproofing material is installed.

We fix it on top of the rafters waterproofing material. The most convenient way to do this is with wooden slats. At the same time, the slats will play the role of a counter-batten, to which the sheathing slats for the roofing material will later be fixed.

Under the waterproofing, we place insulation in the space between the sheathing slats. Most often used mineral wool. If desired, you can choose another material (expanded polystyrene, polystyrene foam, etc.).

We cover the thermal insulation with a layer of vapor barrier film. We attach it to the rafters using wooden slats.

Finally, we lay down the finishing roofing. At this point, focus on your available budget and personal preferences. Most popular materials:

• slate;
• bitumen shingles;
• corrugated sheeting;
• metal tiles;
• ceramic tiles.

Any roofing material lay it starting from the bottom. As a result, the sheets will be secured so that sedimentary moisture can drain without penetrating under the roofing.

This completes the box of aerated concrete blocks with a roof. Next, you will have to work on installing utilities and finishing, but this is a topic for a separate manual.

Good luck!

Video - Do-it-yourself aerated concrete house

“I don’t have any useless space, I have as many as 100 square meters on the roof that can be used usefully,” says FORUMHOUSE member with the nickname victorborisov. His one-story house made of aerated concrete became popular on the Internet, and received the nickname “transformer booth” due to its flat roof, which is unusual in the Moscow region. Now on the roof of this “booth” there is an excellent lawn, a trampoline and solar panels, and you can get there using an electric elevator.

The one-story house made of aerated concrete was immediately conceived as a “second apartment” outside the city - comfortable housing for year-round use, and it was actually built “in one helmet.” Looking back, Victor himself is surprised at the enormous amount of work he accomplished alone. This article talks about design features and details of self-construction of a legendary house made of aerated concrete.

• Project and requirements for a house made of aerated concrete
• Foundation
• Walls
• Plastering
• Facade finishing
• Landscaping

Project and requirements for the house

Victor bought a plot for his house in SNT - so that the journey to work would not take more than an hour. He chose the project based solely on rational considerations:

• the optimal area should not exceed 80 m2 - for a family of 3-4 people this is enough;
• the house should have one floor, the second - complication of construction and “extra running up the stairs”;
• in the absence of main gas and at high electricity tariffs, a heat pump (semi-industrial ducted air conditioner) was chosen for heating.

The project has been slightly modified, but this is almost the final layout.

Victor did all the work with his own hands, occasionally recruiting friends to help. He calculated that this approach allowed him to save two million rubles in two years.

At the start of work, our user had no construction experience other than overhaul apartments. The most difficult thing was studying construction technologies and design, especially of engineering systems.

The mechanical work itself, be it laying blocks or installing a heating system, is very easy. When you have a well-thought-out drawing and all the materials at hand, you just take it and do it.

During the preparation of construction, he ordered a well from “some office,” bought a change house and installed temporary electricity. The layer of fertile soil was removed and moved to the part of the site where the garden is planned, drainage, a septic tank and backfilling of the site were made.

DIY aerated concrete house foundation

Now Victor is sure that for a stone house without a basement there is no better foundation than the USP; but Victor from 2012 chose a classic foundation slab.

Victorborisov FORUMHOUSE Member

Then I was only able to realize the fact that a strip foundation installed at a freezing depth is not at all a competitor to a classic monolithic slab.

Slab dimensions: 8.5x10.5 meters, height 20 cm, reinforcement in two rows along the entire plane. At the base there is a compacted sand cushion. To prevent the cement laitance from flowing into the sand, a reinforced film is laid on it.

Composite fiberglass reinforcement was used in the construction of the foundation.

In the foundation section of FORUMHOUSE, fiberglass reinforcement is treated critically: its modulus of elasticity is 4 times less than that of steel. Such reinforcement is not recommended for use on floors that are subject to variable high (ultimate) loads at different points.

Victorborisov FORUMHOUSE Member

And in a slab foundation, fiberglass reinforcement is an ideal replacement for steel.

Box

For the walls, Victor chose 400 mm blocks to avoid additional insulation. Aerated concrete was developed, among other things, as a material for independent construction; working with it is relatively easy, although the blocks are quite heavy, and our user lifted and stacked them alone.

The first row of blocks was the most difficult: I had to work with both cement (at the base) and glue for thin-seam masonry.

At this stage of construction, Victor's labor productivity was one full row per day. He sought to achieve an even vertical cut when cutting the blocks so that there would be no gaps when laying them. Later, he himself admitted that this was redundant: such cracks could simply be filled with foam.

After laying the next full row, the horizontal surface was leveled to zero using a plane, so the error did not accumulate as the building grew; the new row always fit perfectly tightly to the previous one.

Additional reinforcement was made under the window openings (a block before them).

In seven working days, Victor laid out seven rows. The masonry rose, building became more difficult. At this stage, there was still enough scaffolding from the freed pallets from the blocks.

Victor spent the rainy day making reinforcement cages for the lintels from wire and a simple template.

M300 sand concrete was used to fill the lintels.

Victor laid out 12 rows of blocks alone with minimal help. This took no more than a calendar month, and now the missing additional block is solemnly laid out in the last row of the box. The photograph shows the features of applying the glue.

The construction of the walls was complicated by the window openings: the blocks had to be cut much more often. For this purpose, a special device was designed - a miter box, about which you can

Victorborisov FORUMHOUSE Member

Nothing complicated, and with a permanent assistant, this work could be done twice as fast.

First row internal partitions laid on the mortar, the connection with the load-bearing walls was made through a row of metal plates for fastening profiles for drywall: two holes were drilled in the wall and secured with self-tapping screws.

Roof

Victor chose a pitched roof for self-construction of a house made of aerated concrete for a number of reasons:

• erect rafter system it is very difficult and quite dangerous for one;
• instead of useless attic space for a one-story house, you can get 100 square meters. meters of usable area;
• This roof design made it possible to obtain a closed “stone” contour inside, with normal ceilings.

The roof has a complex structure:

• prefabricated monolithic floor with aerated concrete filler

• extruded polystyrene foam (15 cm layer, for insulation)
• extruded polystyrene foam to create a slope. The height difference over a length of 7.5 meters is 15 centimeters.

Victorborisov FORUMHOUSE Member

Just in case, let me remind you: flat roof not flat, it has a slope of 1-5 degrees (usually 2), and a mandatory drainage. No pools on flat roof can not be.

• screed;
• classic built-up waterproofing in two layers with top coating.

The ceiling was filled in the fall.

This stage of construction was the most nervous. There was a whole epic with low-quality beams: it turned out that the T-blocks did not physically fit into them; I had to wait several days for the supplier to replace them. All this time, our user continued to pay for the rental of telescopic stands. At the same time, the weather deteriorated sharply - it was heading towards winter, and heavy, prolonged rains gave way to a sharp cold snap. There were entire pools of water in the house, and the roof covering, which was prepared for concreting, was frozen over.

But, if you consistently solve all the problems that arise, they will be successfully resolved. Victor entered winter with the frame of the house erected. The rest of the roofing work was completed in May. And subsequently our user made a green roof.

Victorborisov FORUMHOUSE Member

The total duration of construction from the beginning of excavation work to concreting the floor is 4 months. Let me remind you that this is my first construction experience in my life.

The construction season could have been completed, but Victor still managed to complete the partitions, install windows, doors, take out the garbage, insulate the floor, install electrical wiring and prepare the walls for plastering.

Do-it-yourself plastering of aerated concrete house walls

Viktor Borisov loves to mechanize and automate everything, but he loves saving time and money even more. Therefore, he decided to plaster the walls himself, with both hands.

Scope of work:

• facade of a one-story house 120 square meters,
• interior walls 240 square meters,
• floor with ceiling of 72 square meters.

Aerated concrete blocks are a material that requires mandatory priming before plastering.

Finishing gypsum plaster indoors our user started with the ceilings: in prefabricated monolithic floor There are a lot of seams, and any of them can crack after some time. But stretch ceiling do not decrease into the construction budget, and our user has a dislike for drywall.

When plastering surfaces, beams served as beacons - fortunately, they lay flat.

The walls could be smoothed immediately after application, but with such a volume of work, at least four hands were needed. Our user decided that better later perfectly evenly putty and paint the walls.

The thickness of the plaster layer inside the house is 6 mm. Another feature of aerated concrete blocks: beacons can be attached to them without using a level.

Plaster mesh was used only on substrates with poor adhesive ability - in partitions in doorways, where a 100x40 board, etc. was used.

Victorborisov plastered the facade with cement plaster, using four slats, which he rearranged immediately as the work progressed.

To maintain a high pace of work, he first plastered only smooth surfaces, and then slopes and corners, on which special plastic corners with a mesh attached were used.

There was an idea to decorate the house decorative plaster, but the homeowner rejected it in favor of white paint.

Do-it-yourself communications for a one-story house

The “apartment outside the city” was immediately designed without a boiler room, without a stove or fireplace. For heating, an air-to-air heat pump, also known as a duct air conditioner, was chosen. In low-rise housing construction in our country, air heating is rarely used. Victor was one of the first to use it, and believes that heat pumps are the future.

Victorborisov FORUMHOUSE Member

Heat transfer of ordinary electric convector equal to the amount of energy consumed, while a heat pump can “produce” 4 times more energy than it consumes. And the use air heating At the same time, it also solves the issue of room ventilation.

The budget for water supply was limited: “we are solving the problem of how to do it cool with minimal costs.”

A five-meter deep well is located five meters from the house. The water supply system was installed from a 24-liter hydraulic tank, a mechanical filter with a pressure regulator, a well pump and reinforced plastic pipes.

The filter turns on the pump when the pressure drops below the set values ​​and turns off when the pressure returns to normal.

Made in the floor sewage pipe: It’s interesting here - an ordinary, several-layer 110 sewer pipe leads to the well, into which an insulated HDPE pipe is inserted, which can be pulled out and replaced.

Summarizing

This house is like a living being, it is constantly developing and improving. Now this is an energy efficient house with a beautiful plot, but it seems that the most interesting is yet to come.

Victorborisov believes that he did not make big mistakes during construction, but some work and life plans led to a waste of money and time. These include:

• waterproofing the entire area foundation slab. It was possible to do it only around the perimeter and under load-bearing walls: EEPS insulation is not afraid of moisture;
• construction of a brick plinth in 2 rows. This is not just a bridge of cold, it is a whole tunnel through which heat will escape. Ideally, it did not need to be made at all, and to be on the safe side, the first row of aerated concrete should be made not from D400 aerated concrete, but from moisture-resistant D600 with a width of 300 mm;
• purchase of a 6-meter change house. Instead of this pointless acquisition, it was necessary to buy a shipping container and then sell it.
• excessive optimism, which made us believe that delivery dates for materials would always be met, and the quality of materials would correspond to what was declared.

Victorborisov FORUMHOUSE Member

Always check each delivery as carefully as possible, demand certificates and quality passports, take a tape measure and study every centimeter of the product. Otherwise, just like me, the deadlines fly by (10 priceless warm days)!

Basic construction works took two seasons. The total budget, including “everything”, is 2 million rubles.

For those who are just planning to start building a house from aerated concrete, our user advises making a row layout of the blocks in order to optimize the location of the openings and accurately calculate how many blocks will be required. There is no need to order a pallet for 1-2 blocks: you can make them yourself.

On FORUMHOUSE you can find out the details of this amazing; how to fill it with your own hands, ask consultants questions about. We offer you an interesting article about a FORUMHOUSE user who was able to build a similar one, cutting the budget in half. Watch our video about another do-it-yourself aerated concrete house.