Having completed the construction of the foundation, giving it time to harden, they work on the walls of the future house. What the developer will build them from depends on the climate of the area, as well as on the financial capabilities of the developer to purchase this or that material. The walls of houses must meet the following requirements: be strong (withstand design loads); durable (resist weather conditions); have sound and heat insulation.

For a house to have an attractive appearance, it must be decorated with various materials. The main ones: 1. Brick. 2. Monolithic. 3. Frame. 4. Chopped. 5. Cobblestones. 6. Panel. 7. Small block.

Brick walls. Brick like construction material Widely used in urban and rural construction. Basically it is red, white (silicate). Yellow is used for wall cladding. All types of bricks are produced solid or hollow, with round or rectangular voids.

Ordinary solid brick - for construction load-bearing walls, for the construction of columns, pillars, vaults. The color is predominantly red. Must be frost-resistant, i.e., withstand frequent temperature changes without visible signs of destruction. Porosity should be at least 6-8%, but not more than 20%. The amount of brick porosity determines the strength of its adhesion to the masonry mortar, the thermal conductivity of the walls and the absorption of moisture when the weather changes. In terms of heat protection indicators, it is inferior to many other wall materials. So, for example, for design temperature environment -30°C walls lined with solid brick masonry can be 64 cm thick (taking into account the brand of brick and mortar). For comparison, the thickness of wooden block walls at the same temperature “load” is 25-30 cm. To reduce heat loss and brick consumption, an economical design of external walls - well masonry - is quite common. With this type of masonry, the wall is practically laid out from two independent walls half a brick thick, connected to each other by vertical and horizontal brick bridges to form closed wells. Wells are filled with slag, expanded clay, and lightweight concrete. The disadvantage is the weakened structural strength of the wall. Typically, ordinary brick has an unattractive, rough surface, as a result of which internal and external walls built from it must subsequently be plastered.

Rice. 8. Types of bricks:
1 - ordinary solid brick; 2 - hollow brick; 3 - facing brick; 4 - silicate brick; 5 - fireproof brick (fireclay); 6 - clinker brick

Hollow brick - for the construction of external walls with increased heat-insulating ability. Color: pale red, dark red, brown, yellow. Hollow brick is used to make walls thinner. The presence of voids in brick reduces the need for raw materials, transport costs, facilitates firing, and increases frost resistance. In order to reduce brick consumption, reduce the weight of walls and the load on the foundation, external walls can sometimes be completely laid out from hollow bricks. Hollow bricks are made with through and non-through round, slot-like, oval or square voids. Due to the fact that the diameter of the through voids does not exceed 16 mm and the width of the gap is 12 mm, during the masonry process the mortar slightly fills the voids, and the masonry has a reduced thermal conductivity. The brick can be plastic or semi-dry pressing: with plastic pressing, the brick is made with through voids, and with semi-dry - with non-through voids (it is also called five-walled and is laid with voids down).

Facing bricks - for almost all types of exterior work. The color, depending on the raw material, ranges from light yellow to dark red. Withstands exposure to water and frost. Some types facing bricks, used for exterior finishing stoves, fireplaces, have beautiful patterns printed on their outer surfaces, giving them an additional decorative effect. With the use of facing bricks, the cost of the walls increases, but the difference is approximately equal to the cost of plastering the facade. If we take into account the costs of repairing plaster and periodically painting external walls, it turns out that walls lined with brick are 15% cheaper in materials than plastered ones, and 25% cheaper in labor costs. The facing bricks are beautiful in light colors - yellow and cream, made from light-burning clays. In general, in their natural state, clays are gray, yellow, reddish, greenish, brown and almost black. But the color of already fired brick is largely influenced by the content in clay various connections and above all iron oxides. A unique aesthetic effect is achieved by using profile facing bricks. In the old days, profile bricks were obtained by cutting ordinary bricks or in special forms. Thus, in St. Basil's Cathedral, 7 types of profile bricks were used, presented in various options masonry

Figured brick - mainly for exterior finishing. The color is red-brown, has high frost and moisture resistance. Figured brick, as a rule, is used for exterior decoration of a house for an aesthetic purpose - giving it a special, unique shape. What can you do - beauty may save the world, but its creation requires funds, and considerable ones. Therefore, already at the design stage, it is worth realistically assessing your financial capabilities and what suits you best - classic right angles or intricate facade shapes? Unlike Russian enterprises, foreign companies offer a wide selection of shapes and color range. Typically, figured bricks are made to order, taking into account customer requirements.

Glazed brick - for cladding internal and external walls. Color - different range of colors. Glazed brick refers to facing bricks and is mainly intended for original cladding. Even the architects of Babylon decorated the facades of royal palaces with it. Nowadays, glazed brick is produced by adding various chemical solutions to the clay mass, which, during the firing of the raw material, form a colored glassy layer. Moreover, the decorative layer has good adhesion to the main mass and has increased frost resistance. In terms of its basic properties, glazed brick is similar to clinker ceramics, however, compared to other types of facing bricks, it is the most fragile. This fact significantly limits the scope of its possible application. However, it is quite interesting when laid out various kinds and mosaic paintings both on the facades of houses and indoors. We have glazed brick - quite rare finishing material. As a rule, it is made to order and abroad.

Brick with straw - for cladding external walls. Color red-brown. The brick has a rough, relatively flat surface and a recess on one side, which is typical for antique bricks self made. Masonry made from such bricks creates the illusion of an ancient building, which in itself is beautiful, and sometimes simply necessary (for example, when reconstructing ancient buildings or constructing new ones in historical places). The use of straw in the manufacture of bricks can significantly increase its strength characteristics. Moreover, the recipe for “straw” brick itself is not new - even the ancient Egyptians, to combat fragility, “reinforced” the brick with straw fibers.

Ceramic clinker modular brick - for cladding external walls. Color: white, gray, light black, red, has low moisture absorption, heat-resistant, frost-resistant. Features of ceramic clinker bricks include their frost resistance (withstands at least 50 heating-cooling cycles) and heat resistance. low level of moisture absorption (0.2%). This is achieved both by the choice of source materials and by a special firing technology (at a temperature of 1800°). The brick has smooth end walls, like ceramic tiles, and a non-standard size - larger than that of ordinary facing bricks (which is why it is called “modular”). Therefore, due to the smaller number of bricks required in the wall being built, the laying time can be reduced.

The outer walls of houses are made one, one and a half bricks or more thick. This depends on the minimum winter temperatures. The strength of the wall is ensured by bandaging the seams. There are two dressing systems - single-row and multi-row. With a single-row ligation system, each row of bricks is ligated. Multi-row dressing is much simpler. A multi-row system is recommended as the main one for laying the walls of a house. The thickness of the seams for any dressing system should be 8-10 mm. Check the horizontality of the masonry every 2-3 rows and, if necessary, correct it (reduce or increase the thickness of the seam).

Rice. 9. Brick wall:
1-4 - rows of masonry; 5 - transverse wall; 6 - brick layout; 7 - filling with insulation; 8 - mortar bed

The laying of walls always begins from the butt row and is carried out from the corner from the front mile. Along the edges of windows and doorways To install the boxes, 2 wooden plugs the size of 1/2 brick are placed on each side. The plugs are wrapped in one layer of roofing felt, the box is also insulated with roofing felt.

Rice. 10. Brickwork elements:
a - without ligation of seams; b - with ligation of seams

Lightweight brickwork with an air gap - consists of a thin outer wall 1/2 brick thick, an air gap and an inner wall one or one and a half brick thick. After 3-5 rows, both walls are tied with a butted row of bricks along the entire length of the wall. Brick ties can be replaced by reinforcement with steel rods in increments of 50 cm. To ensure better adhesion to the mortar, the ends of the rods are not brought to the outer surfaces of the walls by 5 centimeters.

Rice. eleven. Brickwork elements:
c - masonry elements; 1 - outer direction; 2 - internal direction; 3 - forgetfulness; 4 - second row; 5 - first row; 6 - horizontal seam (bed); 7 - vertical longitudinal seam; 8 - vertical transverse seam; 9 - facade; 10 - longitudinal rows

Lightweight brickwork with slab insulation is ordinary masonry lined with insulation inside using mortar beacons. This creates an air gap 2-4 cm wide. Slab insulation is attached to the brickwork and with the help of wooden slats nailed to plugs embedded in the masonry. Slab insulation can be made of wood concrete, fiberboard, mineral wool, lightweight concrete and others. At an air temperature of -30°C, the necessary thermal insulation is obtained with a wall thickness of one and a half bricks and insulation made of slabs 80 mm thick. When laying a wall made of hollow bricks, a wall thickness of 25 cm is sufficient, i.e. in one brick.

Well masonry wall. The transverse walls are made using 3 bricks, the outer corners are laid out in a row of bricks. The backfill is laid as the walls are erected, in layers of 10-15 cm, carefully compacted. Every two layers are watered with lime mortar. Slag, expanded clay, sand mixed with sawdust and fluff lime in a ratio of 1:4:1 are used as backfill. At the end of the well masonry, 3 rows of solid masonry are laid out with reinforced mesh in the last row. Well masonry is recommended for houses with wooden floors.

Following the development of the project and the carrying out of foundation work, there will be a stage of construction of walls, the quality of which affects the reliability of the structure as a whole. When observing building codes, it is worth considering that the height of the living space must be at least 2.8 m. Any deviations may result in the building being declared unfit for habitation.

The important properties of the walls being erected are:

• sufficient thermal insulation;
• soundproofing;
• fire safety.

When choosing materials for construction, knowledge about their properties and methods of constructing walls is necessary.

Masonry systems

The traditional method of masonry is to build a wall from standard or one-and-a-half bricks using a mortar of sand and cement. It is characterized by particular strength and durability, but entails high resource costs. It will take a lot of time to complete the work.
In this regard, the use of fairly large blocks is becoming more common.

Aerated concrete blocks have sufficient strength and low weight (with more detailed information can be found in the article -, and also), which allows you to lay it with a special glue without using a solution. This building material has the following properties:

• increased sound insulation,
• frost resistance,
• ease of use (saws and drills well),
• resistance to fungus,
• not flammable

Masonry from shell rock is in many ways similar to working with aerated block, since this natural stone also lightweight, durable and fairly inexpensive. The difference is in the application cement mortar. The porous structure requires a protective finish, since the external environment can have a negative effect. Shell rock, being natural material, has a beneficial effect on human health.

Ceramic blocks are made from clay. With the same technology, the size is different from a brick. The shape is unusual - there are protrusions and grooves on the front surface, allowing the blocks to be fixed without mortar. It is used only for fastening necessary for horizontal rows. Ceramic blocks are not afraid of fire and retain heat well indoors.

Traditional and modern technologies

Permanent formwork - construction technology, which appeared not very long ago. This is a system consisting of walls made of heat-insulating material (expanded polystyrene) fastened with lintels. Concrete fills the entire interior space. It will not be difficult for several workers to assemble a house in a short time.
Glued laminated timber is a natural wood that, when processed in a factory, acquires properties that allow the material to be used almost immediately during assembly. Ready house there is no need to withstand it, waiting for shrinkage as in the case of using a log house.

Frame house construction is a fast, relatively inexpensive, fairly durable type of construction that came to us from Europe. The frame, built from wood or metal, is filled with insulation (). After covering with multilayer slabs, cladding is carried out using various finishing materials (). The construction of such a house with high speed work does not interfere with his subsequent many years of service.

Selecting materials

When choosing materials and wall designs, being aware of time and financial limitations, it is worth taking into account all the nuances of constructing affordable housing. The cost is influenced not only construction works, but also delivery, storage of goods, finishing work. It is important to keep in mind that high levels of wall insulation will contribute to significant savings during the operation of the house.
To summarize, the following characteristics can be highlighted wall materials necessary when building an affordable home:

• acceptable price;
• high thermal properties;
• speed of construction;
• affordable price for construction and installation works.

Construction without the use of heavy equipment will significantly reduce the cost of the project. And when constructing walls made of concrete blocks and reinforced concrete panels, construction equipment is necessary. Therefore, they are also not suitable for affordable housing. The use of solid brick entails the need for a solid, expensive, powerful foundation. To reduce heat loss, the masonry should be made in two layers.

Preferring cheap option, you should not pin your hopes on a wooden frame, since the finished frame must be kept at home for several months before finishing. This is necessary for the wood to dry completely. Technology of use permanent formwork- accessible, inexpensive, fast construction method. But due to the insufficient strength of the structure, its use is permissible in case of special financial savings.

Construction of walls using aerated blocks, ceramic blocks, and shell rock significantly reduces time due to their large sizes. Light weight allows you to save money when pouring the foundation, since the pressure on the ground is minimal. A lightweight foundation is also suitable for laminated timber. High thermal insulation properties and speed of assembly (2-3 weeks) make these construction methods quite acceptable for the construction of affordable housing.

Today, building walls has become a process that involves creativity and wide choice modern materials. This allows the construction of structures that differ in terms of cost, strength, thermal insulation and aesthetic characteristics. Even the walls in the garage can be made so that they are not only warm and beautiful, but also strong.

A room intended for storing vehicles must comply with many standards and regulations, including safety for people and the surrounding area. Before drawing up a building project, which includes such a stage as erecting walls, you need to briefly familiarize yourself with the requirements for garages.

Here are the main criteria, the observance of which is mandatory for everyone:

1. Fire safety. Not only the car itself, filled with fuel, is stored in the room, but also lubricants, oils, technical fluids and paint. All these substances are extremely flammable. Based on this, the walls in the garage must be non-flammable. In addition, it is advisable to make them from a material that long time will be able to contain the flame so that it does not spread to neighboring objects.
2. Strength. The walls of the garage must resist intruders trying to get inside the building for a long time. It should be taken into account that a sledgehammer and a powerful cutting tool powered by batteries can be used. To strengthen the building, corners are reinforced and intermediate pillars are installed.
3. Thermal insulation. Insulation is carried out to prevent the formation of condensation during a sharp change in temperature outside. Condensation causes the formation of rust on the metal and rapid breakdown of the vehicle. The wall pie consists of a load-bearing base, membrane film, foam or mineral wool, and finishing.
4. Ecological cleanliness. The material for the garage walls should not emit environment substances that can harm flora and fauna. This requirement also applies to finishing, which must be chemically and biologically inert.
5. Correspondence appearance surrounding architecture. Such conditions are imposed on persons who have received permission to build within the city or on the territory of a cooperative.

Before deciding how the construction of walls will be carried out, it is necessary to carefully study the current construction and sanitary norms and rules. Violation of them may result in fines or a court decision to demolish the building.

Use of reinforced concrete in construction

Let's consider what options exist for arranging walls for a garage, features, pros and cons various materials and technological solutions. For example, concrete walls are characterized by increased strength, reliability and long service life. Buildings of this type are made in the following ways:

1. From reinforced concrete products cast in industrial conditions. A box with a height of 2500-3000 cm is assembled from them. The plates are fastened together using welding and cement mortar. Since the structure is not aesthetically pleasing, it is plastered with outside.
2. Pouring concrete into the formwork. The monolithic concrete wall is so strong that it can even withstand a collision with a car. The solution is added to the mold continuously until the walls are completely raised to the desired height. As the bottom layer of concrete hardens, the formwork is built up using external supports.

When building with concrete, it doesn’t really matter what thickness of the walls the garage has. With enormous strength, this material has incredible thermal conductivity. For concrete, the walls made of insulation and insulators must be made as thick as possible. However, you should not limit yourself only to external thermal insulation. To achieve the desired result, it is advisable to do it in the garage and from the inside.

Construction of a brick garage

Brick is a material that combines fairly decent strength and average thermal conductivity. Before making brick walls, you need to build a durable slab or strip foundation. For zone with temperate climate standard thickness The walls are counted as one brick. For work, it is better to use stones made from red clay. They are more resistant to stress and moisture than silicate analogues.

When erecting brick buildings, it is necessary to take into account the following nuances:

1. Before starting laying, the foundation is leveled with cement mortar. The error cannot exceed 2-3 mm. Waterproofing is laid on top of the cement base. For this purpose, only or several strips of thick cellophane are used.
2. Corner reinforcement is carried out using steel strips, channels, corners and reinforcement. In order for the structure to acquire the necessary strength, each corner is tightened with external and internal linings and reinforcement.
3. Improved adhesion is achieved by pre-wetting the bricks in water. However, in the cold season, this method is not recommended to use in order to prevent water in the joints from freezing.
4. Vertical and horizontal are checked after laying each row. For this, a level and plumb line are used. You can simplify the laying procedure by using a box that is installed along the outer perimeter of the foundation.
5. Depending on the chosen finishing option, the seams are aligned with the brick or gaps are left in them to better retain the plaster layer. If you plan to leave the wall unfinished, then a decorative seam is made using a special spatula.

If you plan to build up the wall in the future, then you need to make a reliable lining of cement and steel profiles along the top of the masonry.

Construction of walls from foam blocks

Foam blocks are a building material that has come into use relatively recently. Its undoubted advantages are the large volume of stones, low specific gravity and excellent thermal insulation qualities. In addition, the blocks have clear shapes with minimal errors. This makes it possible to lay them on a thin layer of glue, avoiding increased consumption of cement mortar. This quality allows you to significantly reduce the weight of the structure. In turn, foundation costs will be significantly lower. Using blocks measuring 600x300x200 mm, you can make walls 60 cm, 30 cm and 20 cm thick.

When building with foam blocks, you should adhere to the following rules:

1. Since the blocks are very fragile, after each row you need to lay the reinforcement in the cut grooves. Finished surfaces are reinforced with steel mesh.
2. Foam concrete absorbs moisture well, thereby losing its strength. To prevent this, its surface must be plastered.
3. All openings in the garage made of foam blocks (gates, windows, technological niches) are necessarily reinforced with steel frames.
4. External finishing of blocks is required. For this purpose they are used facade slabs, metal or plastic siding.

Please note that foam blocks have low load-bearing capacity. Only hollow reinforced concrete slabs or wooden beam.

To create comfortable and safe conditions For people and property to stay in the garage, it is necessary to carefully select thermal insulation material. Internal walls are best insulated with basalt wool. It does not support combustion, but requires protection from moisture.

It is advisable to use foam boards on the outside of the building. This insulation has low thermal conductivity and light weight. Plaster, plastic panels or siding are placed on top of the foam to protect it from vandals or accidental impacts.

The ideal material for constructing garage walls, as we have already said, is brick.
Brick walls are strong, fireproof, but have one drawback - high thermal conductivity. Therefore, to insulate them, they must be plastered on the inside.
Thickness brick walls maybe half, one, one and a half, two, two and a half and three bricks. For the construction of garage walls, it is recommended to lay half a brick (Fig. 49) or 1 brick (Fig. 50).
Material consumption per one square meter wall masonry with a wall thickness of half a brick: bricks - 50 pcs., mortar - 35 liters. With a wall thickness of one brick: bricks - 100 pcs., mortar - 75 liters.
In half-brick walls, it is necessary to provide corner and intermediate brick pillars. At the same time, you will not only save building material, but you will also be able to conveniently place racks and shelves in the niches between the pillars indoors.
Not only walls are laid out of brick, but also corners, window openings and gate openings:

Rice. 49. Half-brick brickwork.

Rice. 50. Brickwork in one brick.
In order for the brickwork to be strong, it is necessary that the vertical seams in adjacent rows in height do not coincide, that is, the seams must be bandaged. And for this you will need not only a whole brick, but also parts of it.
To obtain pieces of bricks, they must be cut crosswise with a pick-hammer, striking first on one side of the spoon, then on the other. There should be lines left on the brick from the blows. Now hit the brick harder and it will crack exactly along the lines you marked.
If you are building a garage in the summer, then shortly before starting work on the walls, ■ lower the bricks into a bucket or into an old bathtub of water for a few minutes. You can also water the bricks with water from a watering can. This treatment of bricks will increase the strength of the masonry. But in winter it is impossible to moisten the bricks, because masonry made from such bricks takes a long time to dry.
Brick walls are laid using lime, mixed cement-lime or cement-clay mortars; masonry below the waterproofing level is done using cement mortar. The average thickness of joints in masonry is 10_12 mm.
And now a little more about the construction of walls.
After laying the foundation and installing waterproofing (waterproofing is made from one or two layers of roofing felt or roofing felt or from a 1:2 cement mortar 2 cm thick), you can begin to build walls, but first you need to level the foundation using mortar. To do this, slats are attached on both sides of the foundation in a strictly horizontal position. The correct position of the slats is established using a level. The solution is poured between the slats and leveled.
In order for the masonry to be strictly horizontal, it is necessary to install orders in the corners of the future garage, which are wooden slats with divisions every 77 mm (one division of the order is equal to the height of the brick lying flat) and numbers along the rows of the masonry. The orders are set so that the numbers are exactly on the same horizontal line. A thin cord is pulled between the rows, along which the horizontalness of the masonry is checked (Fig. 51).

Orders can be installed every 4~5 m, in this case the cord will not sag and the masonry will be more even.
If building a garage is your first experience in the construction business and you have not yet learned how to do masonry correctly, then we advise you to do the following: lay the bricks along the future garage wall without mortar, so that there is a gap between them equal to the thickness of the seam, then there are 10-12 mm. After this, pull the cord so that it moves away from the edge of the wall by 1-2 mm. In this case, the cord does not move while laying bricks on the mortar and allows you to maintain the straightness of the masonry.
Next, carry out the work as follows: with your right hand, using a trowel, scoop up a portion of the mortar, with your left hand, take the brick that was previously laid without mortar, and put the mortar in its place. After smoothing the mortar, return the brick to its place and, tapping it lightly with the handle of a trowel, press it into the mortar so that the seam is the desired thickness and the top of the brick is in line with the cord.
After this, take the second brick with your left hand, also apply mortar in its place, level it, using a trowel, push a little mortar onto the edge of the first brick and put the second brick in place, also pressing it into the mortar so that it is up in line with the cord.
The next bricks are laid in the same way, raising the cord as necessary. If part of the mortar into which the brick is pressed protrudes beyond the plane of the wall, immediately remove it with a trowel, put it back in the bucket and mix it with the mortar located there.
You can build walls without the help of a cord. In this case, lay stacks of bricks every 1-1.5 m on the wall under construction. Then take a portion of mortar for 3-5 bricks and spread it on parts of the wall. Place the bricks on the mortar one by one, tapping them lightly with the handle of a trowel. During laying, do not forget to use a trowel to push a small part of the mortar onto the edge of the previously laid brick.
To obtain even masonry, you can also use formwork. Do it as follows: place racks strictly vertically on both sides of the wall and attach edged boards 25-40 mm thick to them. The distance between the formwork boards should be equal to the thickness of the wall. For convenience, you need to apply rows of masonry to the racks in advance. The masonry must be carried out so that the upper plane of the brick is strictly level with the edges of the boards. Having laid one row, proceed to another, while the formwork boards should be raised to the height of the new row.
During the laying process, one must not forget about the seams. If one of the sides of the wall (front or inner) is subsequently covered with plaster, then the masonry can be laid in a waste area. With such masonry, the mortar in the seams does not reach the plane of the wall by 10-12 mm. To achieve this, you need to put the solution in the middle, not bringing it to the edge at a distance of 35-40 mm. After laying the bricks, the mortar will expand, but not enough to level the seams with the plane of the wall.
If the walls are not going to be plastered, then the joints in the masonry are filled completely. To do this, the mortar is placed so that it is squeezed out of the seams, then it is removed at the same level from the front side of the masonry.
If you want to get a seam in the form of a half-roll, then. Having cut off the squeezed out mortar, run a jointer soaked in water over the mortar, smoothing and compacting it. If there is not enough mortar in places, you can add it by smearing it into the seams with a trowel and again running the jointer along the seam.
Remember that the seams should be flush with the masonry or slightly recessed, but not protrude beyond the plane of the wall.

Rice. 52. Brickwork of pillars.
When laying out the walls of a garage, you cannot do without pillars. They can be one, one and a half or more bricks, square or rectangular in shape (Fig. 52).

Walls must meet certain requirements, the main ones being strength and durability.

The walls can be made: brick (from ordinary silicate and so-called affective brick); monolithic (made of lightweight concrete); small block (from small lightweight concrete blocks, adobe); panel (panel) and frame (with internal insulation and double-sided cladding).

It is in this order that we will begin to analyze their design features.

The most common brick is ordinary clay red. White silicate is also suitable. True, it cannot be used for laying foundations, stoves and fireplaces. Facing (yellow) brick is used for wall cladding. All bricks are produced either solid, (effective), i.e. with round or rectangular through holes. By the way, such bricks have good thermal performance.

A standard brick has dimensions of 250x120x65 mm or 25Ох12Ох88 mm. Its wide edges are called the top and bottom edges, respectively, the long side edge is called a spoon, the short one is called a spoon. A row of bricks laid with the long side along the wall is called a spoon, and across walls - tychkovy. The outer rows of masonry are called verst, the inner (hidden) ones are called backfill. For backfilling they use chipped bricks, and even broken bricks.

The store can also offer you ceramic stone. This is essentially the same brick, but larger - 250x120x138 mm. It is only released hollow.

To work on masonry walls you will need various tools. The most necessary ones are a trowel, a combined hammer-pick, a mortar shovel-scoop and a jointer. Use a trowel to level the mortar, fill vertical joints and remove excess mortar from the outside of the masonry. Using a hammer-pick, they chop and trim the bricks, and trim the laid bricks. Use a shovel-scoop to apply the solution. The seam of the masonry is smoothed out using jointing. In addition, you will need: a tape measure, a folding meter, a rule (a trimmed rod or metal corner), and placed a level (to check verticality and horizontality). It’s also a good idea to have a wooden square to control the angles, a grading rod with 75 mm divisions for marking and adjusting rows of masonry, and a mooring cord to check the straightness of the masonry of a row of the same thickness.

The outer walls of buildings are made 1, 1.5, 2.5 or more bricks thick. It depends on the climate.

The strength of the wall is achieved by bandaging the seams of single-row or multi-row masonry. With the d o n d row system (Fig. 10), as a rule, spoon and butt rows of masonry or combinations of them alternate sequentially. Multi-layer dressing (Fig. 11) is simpler. Here, for one row of splices there are three to five spoon rows, which are easier and faster to lay.

The thickness of the seams for any dressing system should be about 10 mm. Every 2-3 rows, check the horizontality of the masonry and, if necessary, adjust it, reducing or increasing the thickness of the seam, but not sharply, but evenly distributing the mortar over several rows. The seams must be filled completely and, until the solution has dried, they must be embroidered, given a convex, concave or triangular shape. If the wall is supposed to be plastered, then the seams are left empty to a depth of approximately 1 cm - among builders this is called empty masonry.

They always start work from the corner of the house from the butt row of the front mile. Along the edges of window and door openings for installing boxes, two wooden plugs the size of half a brick are placed on each side. They need to be wrapped in one layer of roofing material. Before installation in the opening, boxes are also insulated with roofing felt.

However, solid masonry walls made of solid brick with a thickness of more than 38 cm (i.e. 1.5 bricks) are not economically viable - the consumption of building materials is too high. It is much more profitable to use efficient (hollow) brick or to build from ordinary solid brick, but using lightweight masonry. What designs can be offered?

1 Walls, in the thickness of which there are air gaps 4-6 cm wide
2 Walls lined with slab insulation from the inside
3 Walls with thermal insulation backfill between the outer and inner rows of bricks and transverse walls (the so-called well masonry)
4 Walls with backfill and horizontal diaphragms

All of the above structures significantly save brick and, despite the smaller thickness of the masonry, maintain good thermal performance. However, keep in mind: such designs require very careful execution of the work and especially careful dressing of the seams. In some cases, horizontal seams will need to be reinforced with steel mesh made of thin wire. In masonry with an air gap, as well as with internal insulation you can use an effective brick - it will not only improve thermal insulation properties walls, but will also make it easier. Let's take a closer look at these cost-effective designs.

A wall with an air gap consists of an outer row half a brick thick, an air gap and a main mass 1 or 1.5 bricks thick. Such a wall is designed for outdoor temperatures from minus 20° to minus 30° (when using efficient brick permissible temperatures will be minus 30°_40°). Every 4-6 rows, both masonries are tied with a butted row of bricks along the entire length of the wall. Brick ties can be replaced with reinforcement with steel rods with a diameter of 6-8 mm in increments of 50 cm. For better adhesion to the mortar, the ends of the rods need to be bent. And further. They should not reach the outer edges of the wall by 4-6 cm.

Walls with slab insulation (Fig. 14) do this. Thermal insulation boards are attached to ordinary solid masonry using mortar beacons (this creates an air gap of 2-4 cm). There is another way: wooden slats are nailed to plugs installed in the joints of the masonry, then insulation is stuffed onto them: wood concrete, fiberboard, hard mineral wool slabs or slabs of lightweight concrete, as well as other materials of inorganic origin. For areas where the winter temperature is minus 30°, the wall is laid in 1.5 bricks and insulated with fiberboard slabs 50 mm thick, and when using effective bricks, the thickness of the masonry can be 25 cm, i.e. one brick.

The walls of well masonry backfilled or filled with lightweight concrete have the following design. Transverse machines are arranged through 3 bricks along the length. The outer corners are laid out in a row of studs. Filling with fine slag, expanded clay or other lightweight aggregates is done as the wall is erected in layers of 10-15 cm, carefully compacting each layer. After 2-3 layers, the backfill is watered with a lime solution of a creamy consistency. Instead of the listed fillers, you can use sand mixed with sawdust and fluff lime in a ratio of approximately 1:4:1. The well masonry needs to be completed with 3-4 rows of solid masonry, having previously been reinforced metal mesh the last row with backfill.
Finally, the last design is lightweight brickwork with horizontal diaphragms. It consists of two walls, laid out in half a brick, with insulation between them. The walls are connected with bonded rows (diaphragms) every 3-5 rows. The insulation used is the same as in the well masonry.

Solid external and internal walls one brick thick and lightweight walls of any design are erected using M25 grade mortar.

Lightweight concrete walls can be made monolithic or small block. The availability and low cost of raw materials, simple technology, plus good performance (they are almost as strong and durable as brick ones, but are lighter, less thermally conductive and half the price) have gained well-deserved popularity among individual developers.

The materials for a monolithic wall made of lightweight concrete can be slag concrete, expanded clay concrete, and sawdust concrete. But no matter what “monolith” you choose, you will definitely need to plaster or brick the outside. If beams rest on the walls, then under them it is necessary to place cuttings of boards 50-60 cm long and 20-30 mm thick. When installing door and window frames, do not forget to leave a gap of about 2 cm above them for the walls to settle, and wrap the frames themselves with one or two layers of roofing material.

The quality of monolithic walls largely depends on how well the formwork is made, how it was attached and rearranged during the concreting process. They do it along the entire length of the wall or (which is better) along the entire perimeter. Well-planed boards with a thickness of 30-50 mm are tightly fitted to each other and connected by rack-bars with a cross-section of 80x80 mm through 1-1.5 m into panels 2-4 m long and 50-80 cm high. To prevent them from bursting apart, metal ones are placed below ties with threaded fastening with bolts at the ends (after removing the formwork, the ties are knocked out), and at the top of the rack they are fixed with wooden plates with cutouts or the same ties. Concrete is poured in layers of 15-25 cm. Each layer is first bayoneted with a metal rod, especially carefully near the shields, and then compacted with a wooden tamper. The formwork can be removed and rearranged after three days. All this time, the concrete must be covered with roofing felt.

Instead of wooden panels, half-brick masonry is sometimes used, which will then serve as wall cladding. for better adhesion to the concrete, pokes of bricks are released through 4-6 rows in height and through 2-3 bricks along the length into the thickness of the wall.

Lightweight concrete is most often prepared from M300 cement and coal slag. Its composition (in volumetric parts) for external and interior walls- 1 10, for partitions 1:12. When using M200 or M400 cement, the amount of slag is respectively reduced or increased by 2 parts. It is advisable to sift the slag and divide it into two fractions: large, with grains measuring 6 - 40 mm, and fine, up to 5 mm. There should be 1.5 times more coarse slag in the filler. First, both fractions, measured in the required volume, are mixed with each other and with cement, pour in water and mix again until smooth, then begin pouring the walls. The prepared concrete should be used within an hour. The plasticity (mobility) of the concrete mass can be increased by adding 1 - 2 parts of lime - fluff.

At outside temperature air minus 30, the thickness of walls made of monolithic slag concrete should be 55-60 cm, at minus 10° - 35-40 cm. Instead of slag, you can use expanded clay or pumice. These fillers not only improve the thermal insulation properties of the walls, but also reduce their weight. Thickness (at the same temperatures) can be reduced by 5-10 cm

Very economical and no worse in terms of thermal performance indicators sawdust concrete. It is prepared from cement grade no lower than M300, lime, sand and dry sawdust. Composition of the mixture (by volume) 1 1 2 6. Sawdust should be kept in the open air for about a season before use. If M400 cement is used for the work, then the amount of sawdust can be increased to 8 parts, and lime - by 1-2 parts (this will make it easier to lay the mortar).

First, mix cement with sand and lime with sawdust thoroughly. Then both fractions are combined, mixed well again and water is gradually added. The solution should be homogeneous and without excess water. The technology for constructing walls is exactly the same as using slag concrete. Do not forget to cover them from rain and sun with roofing felt. You can plaster the walls as soon as the formwork is removed. And the floors should be installed no earlier than two weeks after the completion of concreting.

And yet, many developers prefer small lightweight concrete blocks of industrial production, or made with my own hands directly to construction site. The materials for them are coal slag, expanded clay and sawdust, familiar to you from the “monolith”. The blocks are laid using the same mortars as brick.

The walls of such a structure are best plastered on the outside with cement-sand mortar. You can line them with bricks with air gaps (or without them). However, here it will be necessary to make metal connections between the brick cladding and the main wall every 4-6 rows of masonry. On the inside, the walls are either plastered or finished with sheets of dry plaster.

To secure window and door frames, wooden plugs are placed along the edges of the openings.

Blocks of any lightweight concrete are prepared in wooden molds with internal dimensions of 390x190x190 mm. You may also need three-quarter (285x190x190 mm) and half (I90xI90xI90 mm) blocks. The internal surfaces of the molds are moistened with water, and then coated with lime milk or sprinkled with sand; then they can be easily removed. They must be filled tightly with the mixture; it is better to do this in layers, with compaction of each layer. Future blocks can be immediately plastered. In this case, first a layer of cement-sand is placed in the mold. plaster mortar 1.5 - 2 cm thick, smooth it with a planed board, then fill it concrete mixture. The mold can be removed from the blocks after 2-3 hours, but they should be put into use only after 2 weeks. All this time they should lie in the shade on a pallet. Between the blocks it is necessary to leave gaps of 3-5 cm for ventilation.

And finally, another wall - made of adobe blocks. This building material (and we are talking about raw brick) has been known since ancient times, especially in the southern regions of the country where there is a dry climate and a sufficient amount of raw materials.

Adobe is made from clay, fishing line and fibrous organic additives - straw, moss, dry grass, etc. The sizes of the blocks are different, for example, 390x190x120 mm. The clay needs to be prepared in the fall, cleared of stones, shoveled, moistened with water and placed in small piles so that it freezes and loosens well over the winter - this will improve its quality. It is preferable to use fatty clay, as it produces more durable adobe. For 3 parts of clay, depending on its fat content, take from 1 to 3 parts of sand. If the clay is very thin (loam), sand may not be added at all.

The production of blocks begins in the spring. First, thoroughly mix the clay with sand, then pour in water and add wet chopped (chopped) fiber additives. The finished mass should have a homogeneous and fairly thick consistency. A bucket of clay with sand requires approximately 1.5 kg of dry fibrous. The adobe is kept for 1-2 days. then mix again, adding water if necessary, and fill the molds tightly. The excess is cut off with a flat board and the molds are removed. After 3 days, the blocks are turned on their edges and dried for another week under a canopy. Then they are stacked for further drying, leaving small gaps between the blocks for ventilation. Masonry can be laid from blocks no earlier than after 2 weeks, preferably after a month.

A properly made adobe block will not split when dropped onto a solid base from a height of human height. Raw brick walls are plastered with clay-sand mortar and whitewashed. The roof overhang of such houses must be at least 60 cm.

And finally, the last walls on our list are panel (panel) and frame walls.

The basis frame wall- this is the frame. It consists of upper and lower frames, racks between them and struts. The height of the racks is 260-280 cm. The distance between them depends on their cross-section, but, as a rule, it is a multiple of 30 cm. Most often, the pitch of the racks is 60, 90, 120 cm. The frame uses softwood boards with a thickness of 50 mm and a width of 80, 100 , 120 mm. The frames are made from the same boards as the racks. The frame elements are connected to each other by notches or tenons (preferably non-through ones). Before assembling the frame, two layers of roofing felt are laid on the foundation, then scraps of tarred boards 20 mm thick are laid and a base frame is placed on them. The joints of the trim boards should be located above the foundation pillars. Then a thin layer of tow or mineral wool is laid on the base frame and the bottom frame frame with sockets for the racks pre-made in it is laid. Both straps are connected with nails. They are driven in two rows between the posts in a checkerboard pattern. After this, the frame is assembled using temporary struts. When it is ready, a sub-beam frame is nailed to the top, onto which beams or floor slabs will then be laid. If beams (100x100 or 100x150 mm) were used for the upper and lower frame frames, then you can completely abandon the base and sub-beam frames.

The next stage of work is wall cladding. It can be made horizontal, vertical or diagonal (at an angle of 450). The latter is good because it provides sufficient rigidity of the wall in the longitudinal direction. In all other cases, it is necessary to install braces made of boards or bars in the frame (at least two per wall).

The outer cladding is made of boards and lining, and for the interior, fiberboard slabs, hard and super-hard chipboards, plywood, etc. are also suitable. The cavity between the cladding is lined with glassine or roofing felt and filled with slab, fibrous or loose insulation. It is best to use for such walls mineral wool or slabs from it, but you can make backfills from slag, pumice, dry peat or sawdust. Organic backfills must be antiseptic and mixed with lime. For example, a backfill of dry sawdust is prepared like this. For 10 parts by volume, take 1-2 parts of fluff lime, mix well and lay in layers of 20-30 cm, carefully tamping each layer. Disinfection is carried out with the following solutions: 10-15% solution of iron sulfate or copper sulfate; better: potassium dichromate, iron sulfate, water in proportion (by weight) 1:1 20. Holding time for at least 6 hours.

In the case when the outside of the frame is sheathed with fiberboard sheets, it is necessary to install a protective screen. It is done after assembling the walls of the building. The screen can be flat or corrugated asbestos-cement sheets (they are secured using guide rails), tongue-and-groove boards or lining.

Panel (panel) walls are faster in installation than all the structures we have considered. The panels use the same materials as the frame. And in terms of details, they are no different: racks, upper and lower trim, insulation, outer and inner lining. The width of the panels is 120 or 90 cm. They are assembled in a horizontal position and tightly filled with insulation. If the outer cladding is made of asbestos-cement sheets (they are secured with screws), it is not necessary to make a lining of roofing felt or glassine.

Wall installation starts from the corner. Using temporary struts, two panels are installed on the base frame and nailed to it, driving nails at an angle. The panels themselves are connected either end-to-end or using a corner beam-rack. The joints are filled with felt, sealed on both sides with a tarred rope and closed from the outside with a layout (wooden strip). A sub-beam frame is laid along the top and nailed to each panel at a distance of 20 cm from the edge.

The total thickness of a frame or panel wall (i.e., two sheathings of boards plus mineral wool insulation) at an outside air temperature of minus 30° should be equal to 140 mm (20 + 100 + 20).