The main thing and obvious advantage is the ease of installation of siding; having the necessary set of tools, anyone can install siding with their own hands, even a person who does not have vocational training and experience.
Like all finishing materials, siding will expand or contract under the influence of temperature, for this reason, you should avoid tensioning the panels and do not nail them tightly onto the sheathing. Usually, a 2 or 3 mm gap is enough.
When laying panels, take care to maintain a gap of 6-9 mm for thermal expansion. When installing in frosty conditions, the gap should be approximately 12 mm.
Siding cutting can be carried out at temperatures above -10°. Otherwise, it is better to cut in a heated room.
It is better to fasten siding using galvanized short self-tapping screws that have a round head and do not have a drill. It is also possible to use tar nails. One more important point installation is that the siding should be attached exclusively in the center, and not from the edges.
For uneven walls, sheathing is required. If you perform the cladding without sheathing, then the entire curvature of the walls will be reflected on the siding. But even when perfect walls you can perform lathing - this will ensure ventilation of the facade, which will have a good effect on performance characteristics the buildings.
The sheathing for siding is made of wood or metal
Each has pros and cons. Metal lathing has a slightly higher cost, although only slightly. Wooden sheathing must be treated with a special compound. For horizontal siding, vertical sheathing is performed, and vice versa.
If you use a special tool to install siding, the work will be done faster and better. In addition to this, you will have to work:
Siding Installation Basics
Below is a plan of work that will need to be done to cover a house with siding:
Preparatory work
The first step is to dismantle all protruding parts: doors, trim, grilles, etc. Next, you should seal all the cracks using polyurethane foam or cement mortar.
The walls should also be cleaned of all contaminants. A wooden house must be treated with an antiseptic and antipyretic; foam concrete walls are treated with a primer.
Sheathing installation work
Since siding is not attached to the walls, sheathing must be installed. To do this, use a metal profile or wooden slats. For walls made of concrete and brick, galvanized profiles are used.
You can use a CD profile for drywall. When facing frame or wooden house, you can use wooden slats 60 by 40 mm, having a residual moisture content of 15-20%. Before using the slats, they should be treated with an antiseptic. Using a tape measure and a level, make straight-line markings of the walls until a closed contour is obtained.
Now, the distance from the marking to the foundation is measured at the corners, after which another contour is drawn according to the minimum value. The next stage is the installation of vertical guides. They must fit snugly against the walls; to achieve this, you can use pieces of wood or dense foam. The guides should be located at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other.
In areas of additional load, for example, at corners and near windows, additional guides will be required. There should be no connections between the vertical guides. This is done to provide ventilation, which prevents the growth of fungi.
Thermal and moisture insulation
Waterproofing must be done, unlike insulation.
For this purpose, a moisture- and wind-proof membrane is used. If thermal insulation is performed, the lathing must be done in two layers.
Installation of guide elements
Installation begins with drainage. It is a rigid structure, so it is easy to attach. After that, corner profiles are attached using self-tapping screws. The next stage is fastening the starting strip to the drainage along the markings. Along the perimeter of the windows, window strips or J-profiles are fastened so that the location of the outer lower edge is slightly lower than the inner one.
The doorway is edged using J-profiles. When H-profiles are installed vertically in previously determined locations, use a level. Here you need to leave a gap of 5-6 mm to the foundation to avoid bending of the planks over time. The top edge of the siding is covered with a finishing strip.
Panel installation work
After installing all the guide elements, you can begin installing the panels. The first row is fastened to the starting bar.
All other panels are fastened in the same way, up to the window or roof. The panels should not be overtightened or tightly secured; they should move a little to the sides. The top row of siding is finished using a finishing strip.
The siding can be connected along its length using a special H-rail. When using it, the panels are installed in the H-rail, and you do not have to deal with the so-called “running” - i.e. make sure that the joints are not located along one vertical line.
It goes without saying that the H-rails will be visible from the outside of the building, which can negatively affect the design. This problem can be solved simply - either the H-rails are matched to the color of the siding, or the siding is installed “overlapping”. As already mentioned, this kind of finishing requires a “run-up” so that the seam line is not so noticeable. Usually, they try to direct the visible part of the joints to the side from which the house is less often viewed.
This helps improve the visual perception of the building. Do not forget that using H-rails, you lose in terms of efficiency, due to the greater number of trims. Of course, all this is relevant only when the siding strip is shorter than the length of the wall.
Do not cut the siding ahead of time. It is more convenient to trim during the installation process.
Video: do-it-yourself siding installation instructions for dummies
Many people cannot decide how to improve appearance your home. For this reason, this material describes how to decorate a house using best material for performing such work as facing installation - siding. Video instructions are attached.
There is nothing difficult in the process of installing siding; you just need to watch the video and install everything exactly as described there. But before watching, it’s worth reading a step-by-step explanation of this process:
1. Surface preparation.
Insulation
Place insulation boards on the surface of the walls.
The space between the slats should not be completely filled with insulation; at least a minimum distance should remain for ventilation.
Attaching siding (installation is carried out from bottom to top!)
Determine the lower level of the siding plates.
Mark the lower level using twine or chalk.
Install the first row of planks along the marking line.
Install external or internal corners.
Install trim strips on window and door openings.
How to calculate siding for a house
You have decided to cover your house with siding, but the question arises - how to calculate the siding for the house? Yes, very simple! Since siding is a finishing material with clear geometric dimensions and a specific purpose, its quantity can be calculated up to 1 m².
To begin with, during the calculation process you will have to use the following items:
- tape measure - to take initial measurements;
- a leaf and a pencil - for sketching sketches;
- calculator - for calculations.
The amount of siding for cladding the building is calculated in stages. The first step is to calculate how many siding panels are required, and at the second stage of calculations, the required additional elements are calculated.
Before you start making calculations, you should decide on the exact value of the area to be covered. To complete these steps, you should start drawing up a schematic drawing of the building, which you will later measure.
Important point: if there is a building that needs to be faced complex geometry, then in your schematic drawing, in addition to the dimensions, the placement of the panels should also be indicated.
Thus, you create a foundation for correct use material, and reduce the likelihood of encountering unplanned waste and siding shortages.
The following formula will help you with your calculations:
Sр = Sst – So
where Sр is the calculated area, Sst is the area of the walls, So is the area of windows and doors.
Now, we calculate the siding, taking into account the material that will not be used, according to the following formula:
where Sc is the siding area, and % is unused material.
The amount of waste is taken to be 7-10% in the case of cladding rectangular walls. And from 10 to 15% if trapezoidal walls are sheathed, or the walls have a large number of protrusions, recesses, etc. The more complex the configuration of the building, the greater the percentage of waste generated.
The next stage is dividing the resulting area Sc by the usable area of one strip of siding. For example, a strip of siding has a total area of 0.89 m², then its useful area is approximately 0.777 m2.
By the way, the mathematical approach for calculation is most often used by sellers, due to the fact that their responsibilities include selling as much material as possible.
To avoid possible inaccuracies, it would be appropriate to draw up a plan that will accurately describe the detailed location of each strip of siding on a specific wall. If you use sketches, the calculation will be more accurate and you will get visual diagram installation.
This calculation method uses the following formula:
where N is the total number of panels, Sp is the useful area of one panel, H is the height of the building.
Removing shutters, grilles, drainpipes and other fixtures from the surface on which the siding will be installed.
Installation of sheathing for siding. When using wooden slats, they should be impregnated with an antiseptic, since they have a moisture content of no more than 15-18%. Vertical slats are mounted at fixed intervals of 30-40 cm.
Covering a house with siding photo
In this material, you are presented with examples of how to cover a house with siding - photos of buildings, the exterior decoration of which is made using classic vinyl siding, wood siding and facade panels. If you are choosing finishing materials for your home, then here you will find a lot of information for yourself!
Siding is one of the most inexpensive and practical materials for finishing the facade of a house. Installation of such cladding is quite simple; even a novice builder can master the installation. The material is strong and durable and is not afraid of rain, frost, wind and sun. It will protect the walls of the house from mechanical damage and prevent their premature destruction.
Another argument in favor of the material under consideration is the designer’s freedom of imagination. Wall cladding can be done in the most different colors and invoices. There are a huge number of options, some of them are designed to imitate natural stone, bricks, wood of various species.
Types of siding for cladding
Siding is a special cladding panel. Products for external cladding usually take the form of lamellas, but sometimes there are more large varieties. These elements are produced in the form of fairly large panels.
The siding itself can be made from different materials:
- Plastic. Made from vinyl or acrylic polymer. Finishing the facade with this type of material is the most affordable option. The material does not rot and is resistant to moisture. In this case, the plastic does not crack and does not support combustion. The disadvantages of this type of siding include low impact strength.
Vinyl siding is a classic of the genre. Affordable, beautiful and light.
- Metal. Panels made of galvanized iron or aluminum are absolutely fireproof. They are also characterized by high strength. But there are several disadvantages that can cause inconvenience during installation and operation. These disadvantages include increased weight and instability of steel to corrosion. To prevent damage, it is better to choose aluminum models, but their price will be significantly higher.
Metal siding is a very strong and durable material. But you can only buy it from official sellers - fakes quickly rust
- Tree. The material is called “planken” and is highly expensive. Wood is capricious and requires special attention and care during operation. But the advantages of such cladding of houses include an attractive appearance, good thermal insulation and sound insulation properties.
Wood siding is the most environmentally friendly, effective and expensive option
- Fiber cement. Relatively the new kind, which is just gaining popularity. The material belongs to the group of non-flammable materials and is not susceptible to mold and mildew. Other positive characteristics include moisture resistance, strength and durability. Special fastenings are provided for installation.
Fiber cement is not subject to combustion and has a rich palette of textures, textures and colors
Decorating the exterior of a house with siding is not difficult, but painstaking. Considering the cost of services of professional workers, it will be much easier to do this work yourself. To do this, you just need to study the technology and carefully review the recommendations of the manufacturer of a particular finishing material.
Material calculation and preparation
The technology for finishing a house with siding is almost the same for all types. To cladding a house, you will need to prepare some tools for the job:
- a universal hacksaw with small teeth;
- scissors for cutting metal;
- screwdriver;
- pliers;
- hammer;
- construction plumb line;
- roulette;
- pencil.
Full list the necessary tool It's easier to do the job with two people. They start with calculating the material. This is necessary in order to immediately purchase the required quantity and avoid additional transport and time costs during the work process.
The amount of material can be calculated approximately. To do this, calculate the area of the external walls, plinth and cornices. To calculate the required number of panels, the result must be divided by the area of one element. In order to think over the location of the joints and more accurately calculate the quantity, it is worth making a sketch of the external walls of the building. It is recommended to add 5-10% to the amount of siding received for trimming and various unforeseen expenses.
Calculation of surface area for cladding Wall finishing begins with surface preparation. It includes the following actions:
- cleaning from dirt and dust;
- removal of plants, dried lime;
- removal of worn-out plaster and other finishing materials;
- dismantling drainpipes, window sills, various decorative elements that may interfere with the work process.
Frame installation
If the house is built of brick or lightweight concrete, it is recommended to use lightweight lathing metal profile. For a timber or frame building, it is wise to choose a timber frame.
The wooden sheathing is made from slats measuring 50x50 mm. They can be attached to the wall with nails or self-tapping screws. When installing wall siding, the sheathing is placed vertically. When finishing the base, both vertical and horizontal frames can be used.
The frame slats are installed in increments of 30-40 cm, as well as around the openings. There should not be any slats at the very bottom Installation is carried out first corner elements frame. Their evenness is checked using a building level. To secure the frame posts, you should use nails with an anti-corrosion coating (zinc, aluminum). The distance between the frame slats depends on the type of siding. For metal panels it will be 40 cm, and for vinyl panels - 30 cm. But this information should be clarified with the manufacturer.
Are you planning to insulate your facade?
In order for the house to maintain its ability to breathe, it is recommended to choose mineral wool. This is especially true for wooden buildings. The thickness of the heat insulator is selected depending on the climatic region.
Insulation of the house mineral wool implies the presence of a ventilation layer between the wool and the siding. If the height of the sheathing is not enough to provide a gap of 1-3 cm, then a counter-lattice is provided.
Installation of insulation with a counter-lattice to create a ventilation gap A hydro-windproof film is attached on top of the insulation using a construction stapler. Wall cladding will breathe well if you use modern vapor diffusion windproof membranes. You should be careful with insulation because incorrect choice materials at this stage can lead to problems with room temperature and ventilation.
How to work with siding
Finishing begins with the installation of the starting profile. It is attached to the sheathing using galvanized nails or self-tapping screws. The second step will be the installation of corner elements and a connecting profile (if necessary). Door and window openings must be edged with a special j-profile.
Installation of starting and corner profiles Installation of the first siding panel is carried out on the starting strip. It snaps into place and is secured with self-tapping screws (or nails). The assembly of the cladding begins from the bottom up. The panels are secured to each other using a tongue-and-groove system.
Attention! When installing plastic, wood or fiber cement panels, rigid fixation is not allowed. After correct installation the element can be moved to the sides. Rigid fixation is used only when installing metal siding.
Installation of ordinary, connecting and end elements When working with plastic, a gap of a couple of millimeters should be left between the trim and the head of the nail or screw. Tight fastening can damage the material when humidity and temperature change (plastic expands).
Vertical gable cladding
Finishing the facade with siding is quite simple. Plastic elements have special elongated holes for fastening. Nails or screws are placed in the middle.
To finish finishing the house with siding, you need to install a finishing strip at the top of the wall. The last panel is inserted into this bar from below and snaps into place.
To finalize the finishing, it is necessary to install all facade elements (eaves, window sills, pipes, etc.) in their place.
A house finished with siding is reliably protected from any weather conditions!
It has gained quite a lot of popularity, which can be explained by quite significant advantages:
- Cost-effective;
- Durability;
- Impact resistance;
- Moisture resistance;
- Aesthetics.
In addition, installing siding with your own hands is simple, and the finished cladding does not require special care; it is enough to sometimes wash it with a hose.
In order for the finished work to please the eye for a long time, the siding installation technology must be followed.
Material calculation
- We take a blank sheet of paper and make a sketch of our own house with an arrangement of all sizes.
- It is necessary to calculate the total length of the outer corners of the building and divide by the length of the standard “outer corner” element. It is worth not forgetting that the joints of these elements are not desirable, as they do not look aesthetically pleasing enough. It’s better to buy an additional element than to cover the corner with scraps.
- The requirements for the “internal corner” element are the same. Installing a profile in the form of an internal corner is often done to close the joint between the wall and the roof. However, this is done if the cornices are also lined with siding. If not, then we set the finishing line.
- The initial profile or starting strip of siding. We calculate the length based on the perimeter of the house minus the width of all doors.
- If there are junctions of multi-level buildings, then the installation and installation of siding is carried out using J-profiles.
- The window profile is about 3 meters long and is necessary for framing windows and doors.
- How is siding installed if the length of the panels is less than the length of the wall? In this case, the use of H-profiles is appropriate. They are 3.66 meters long and give a beautiful and finished look to the finish. The place for their installation is chosen independently.
The total number of siding panels can be calculated in two ways. The simplest and most common method is to calculate the area. Calculate the entire area of the sheathed walls of the building, subtract the area of the window and doorways, and then divide by the area of one panel, equal to about 0.75 square meters.
A more complex method requires scrupulousness and careful adherence to scale. The installation diagram of the panels is drawn out in detail, all trimmings are taken into account, and the total number of panels is calculated.
The resulting number must be increased by 5-10%, depending on the complexity of the facade. Installing profiles for siding with an area of 100 m2 will require about 2000 screws. It is better to use self-tapping screws, as they are more reliable than nails.
Tools
The material is calculated, and you need to arm yourself with all the necessary tools, without which finishing is impossible.
You will need the most common tools for construction or carpentry work such as:
- Metal square – for setting right angles;
- Long level - to determine horizontality;
- Chalk - for tensioning the cord;
- If self-tapping screws will be used, then it is better to choose a screwdriver, although a screwdriver will also work;
- Hammer;
- Metal ruler;
- Roulette;
- Pliers;
- Cord;
- To cut the sheathing bars, use a hacksaw;
- A fine-tooth hacksaw is suitable for cutting siding panels, although you can use a grinder instead of hacksaws. It depends on the preferences of the worker who will do the finishing.
In addition to the tools, they also prepare workplace. A workbench is used as a support. If the finishing height is significant, scaffolding will be needed.
Preparatory work
TO preparatory work include material calculation, acquisition of the necessary tools, surface preparation and direct installation of the frame. Compliance with all the rules will lead to the best result.
Preparing the walls
If finishing is required an old house, then you need to remove everything decorative elements, platbands and the like. All holes in the walls are sealed polyurethane foam. For the frame, either 50*50 bars or a galvanized profile are used.
Wooden blocks have a very significant disadvantage, which relates to moisture. They may be warped. Taking this into account, it is preferable to use a galvanized profile, although it is more expensive.
If you find well-dried wood, the bars are even, then before installation they must be treated with impregnation in the form of an antiseptic.
Impregnation is necessary even if non-dried wood is used. When attaching such bars, the distance between the battens should not exceed 30 centimeters.
The sheathing for siding is installed at corners, around door and window openings and vertically at a distance of about 40 centimeters from each other. First, the corner bars or profile are installed using a level, then the cord is pulled through and the rest of the sheathing is attached.
Advice!
Where street lamps are installed, an element for fastening must be provided.
Insulation and waterproofing
The rules for installing siding panels recommend installing waterproofing, even in cases where insulation is not carried out. So, first it is attached to the wall waterproofing film, then the sheathing is installed. Thus, we obtain the desired ventilated gap between the wall and the finish.
The instructions for installing siding include insulating the walls. Waterproofing is required, but the fastening scheme is different. Insulation is laid between the frame bars. Waterproofing covers everything, both the insulation and the sheathing bars.
Then a counter-lattice is made, which is made of wooden slats and attached to the frame. This creates the necessary ventilated gap.
Main works
How to install siding yourself? First of all, it is best to carry out installation in summer time, but not in the heat and not under the scorching sun. For cutting fittings and panels, it is best to use a small grinder.
Do-it-yourself installation begins in the same way as a professional one - with the installation of fittings.
Basic Rules:
- Leave a gap of 5 mm, since siding expands when heated;
- Do not tighten the fastening screws to the limit; you need to leave a gap of 2 mm so that the panels move freely;
- Self-tapping screws are installed only in the middle of the mounting hole.
First, the vertical external and internal corners and H-profiles are attached. A 5 mm gap remains between the plinth and panels, cornice and panels. The fittings are fastened every 25 cm.
If it is necessary to join the corners, then the cheeks of the lower element are cut off by about 2.5 cm and overlapped on the upper corner by about 2 cm. Thus, a gap of 5 mm is formed between the cheeks.
This principle applies to internal corners, H-profiles and J-profiles.
How to install siding correctly? Answering this question and adhering to the installation technology, the installation of horizontal elements begins. First of all, starting strips are installed along the perimeter of all walls to be finished.
Using a cord and level, check their straightness and horizontality. The initial strips are also mounted with a gap.
It is quite difficult to explain in words how to properly install siding, or rather window profiles. However, we have a video at the end of the article, where everything is presented clearly and in detail.
However, it should be noted here that the inner part of the window strip is fixed using a finishing panel.
How to install siding yourself - you need the panel to fit into the lock, either the starting strip or the previous panel. The panel should hang freely on the screws and move easily in its horizontal plane. There is no need to be afraid that it will fly away.
Siding is one of the most popular materials for exterior finishing. The panels can have a wide variety of colors, which allows you to create a finish that fits most harmoniously into the surrounding landscape. At the same time, you can handle the installation of the finishing material in question yourself. Read the instructions and get to work.
It is better not to do siding when the air temperature is less than -5 degrees. In cool weather, be careful: when siding freezes, it becomes quite fragile. Carry out all manipulations of cutting and fixing elements carefully; in such conditions, any careless movement can lead to cracks.
Before installation, the panels must be left outside for several hours. This way they will acclimatize and accept required size(the siding material is subject to temperature deformation).
Necessary calculations
Before you go to the store, calculate the required quantity finishing panels and related materials.
Measure the following dimensions of the building:
- length;
- height;
- dimensions of door and window openings;
- dimensions of other recesses and protrusions.
Calculate the total area of the surface to be finished. To do this, calculate the total area of the house, and then subtract from the resulting value the total area of all elements that are not subject to cladding (double-glazed windows, door panels, etc.). Add 7-10% reserve to the calculated value.
Measure the area of one trim element. In most cases it is 1 m2, but double check just in case. A consultant at a specialized store can tell you the same value.
Divide the total area of the surface to be covered by the area of the panel. This way you will find the required number of finishing elements.
Additionally, buy slats 40x60 mm. From these you will assemble the sheathing.
Buy different Consumables– dowels, screws, etc. The number of consumables is calculated very simply: 1 fastener is required for 400 mm of slats.
Buy nails made of aluminum or galvanized metal. For 300 mm of a finishing element it will take 1 nail.
Also buy consumables with a 5-10 percent reserve.
Calculate the required quantity thermal insulation material. To do this, divide the total area of the surface to be coated by the area of the slab (sheet) of heat-insulating material. This way you will determine the required number of insulation boards.
Mineral wool insulation is traditionally used for thermal insulation. These materials are characterized by the most optimal properties and “get along” well with siding.
Installation kit
- Hammer.
- Building level.
- Yardstick.
- Hacksaw.
- Protective glasses.
To cut the material you will need a hacksaw. Instead of hand hacksaw You can use an electric circular saw. The disc should have fine teeth. If cutting vinyl siding, set the saw to rotate the blade in the opposite direction. Cut siding made from other materials in the forward direction, since reverse cutting in such situations is very dangerous.
You can also use hand metal scissors to cut cladding elements. With this tool you can cut elements of a wide variety of shapes and sizes from siding. Use the scissor blades to approximately ¾ of the length - this way the cutting will be as accurate as possible.
Siding can also be cut using a sharp knife. To do this, first make a mark on the panel, then leave a fairly deep groove on the panel with a knife, and then carefully bend and straighten the panel. Repeat until the element bursts along the line you left.
It is not recommended to cut right through the panel with a knife - you can ruin the finishing material.
The panel should begin to be cut from the fastening part (top). Wear safety glasses when cutting.
Siding Installation Guide
After completing all preliminary activities, begin finishing. Start by preparing the base.
Preparing the base
First step. Remove all third-party objects from the walls: drain pipes, shutters, all kinds of gratings and other removable elements - all this must be removed.
Second step.
Install the sheathing. Due to the frame, the unevenness of the base will be leveled. If installed without sheathing, the siding will deform very quickly.
In addition, if it is planned to insulate the walls, it will not be possible to do without lathing.
Assemble the sheathing from wooden slats (beams). When installing an insulated structure, place the sheathing elements in increments a couple of centimeters smaller than the width of the mineral wool insulation. If the siding is attached without thermal insulation, fix the frame slats in 40-centimeter increments. Mount the slats vertically.
Check the evenness of the sheathing. Correct distortions and sagging by adding wooden shims or increasing the frequency of fastening the slats, if possible.
Don't forget to secure the slats around door, window and other openings. Also, frame elements must be present at the corners.
Cover the sheathing slats with plastic wrap. To fix the waterproofing, use a construction stapler with staples. Place insulation in the cells of the sheathing on top of the waterproofing. Place thermal insulation boards tightly, without gaps. Cover the thermal insulation with a vapor-permeable membrane film.
Everything is ready to install the panels. You just need to choose the appropriate fastener.
Recommendations for choosing fasteners for fixing siding
To fasten the cladding elements in question, you can use screws, stainless nails or special staples.
Select fasteners of such length that they go deeper into the wooden sheathing by at least 2 cm. Screws and nails must be inserted strictly into the center of the factory mounting holes (originally present on the siding). Do not drive (screw in) the fasteners completely. A gap of 1 mm will be sufficient.
Gaps must also be left between adjacent panels. The siding material is subject to temperature deformation. On average, as the temperature rises, it expands to 0.5-1 cm. Therefore, the gap size should be close to 10 mm.
Without the presence of the mentioned gaps, the cladding simply becomes deformed at the first warming.
Proceed with installation of siding. First everything is attached additional elements, and then the main panels.
First step
Install the flashing starting from the corner of the building. First make a corner piece to place on the corners of the building. Attach the next ebbs with a 25 mm overlap on the previous ones.
Second step
Set up a starting profile. It should be placed 3-4 cm above the nail strip of the previously installed flashing.
Third step
Install special corner elements at the joints of the walls of the building. The upper part of such angles should be placed 2-4 mm below the cornice. Leave 3-6 mm gaps between the bottom of the corner elements and the starting profile.
Fourth step
Install the appropriate lengths of J-profile, and then install trims and jambs around the perimeter of the doors and windows.
In the J-profile, near the top cashing element, you need to make cuts about 2 cm long on both sides and bend them downwards. Water will be drained through the bent elements.
Fix the finishing strip around the perimeter of the windows.
Fifth step
Fix the molding and finishing profile under the roof eaves. Attach the mentioned elements to the wall.
Sixth step
Proceed with the installation of the main panels. Start sheathing from the initial profile. Be especially careful when installing the first siding panel - it should be fixed as evenly as possible. Otherwise, all other finishing elements will also be fixed skewed.
Insert the siding panel into the starter profile and snap the lock along its entire length. Nail the upper part of the facing panel to the sheathing using the factory holes. Finish the entire planned surface according to this scheme: insert the lower part of the element into the panel fixed below, nail the upper part to the sheathing.
Be careful not to pull the trim panels too hard or you risk deforming the engagement. When installing, remember the required clearances.
Siding installation ends in the finishing profile. For such fixation, make “hooks” at the top of the cladding element.
Now you won't have any problems with self-installation siding. Follow the recommendations received and everything will definitely work out.
Good luck!
Video - DIY siding installation instructions
For an unprepared person, a variety of materials for exterior finishing available on modern market, may cause some confusion.
Such advantages often become decisive factors when choosing siding for cladding a house. The only question remains the installation technology, which should be discussed in more detail.
If you have no experience finishing works, the best solution becomes siding, which has a number of advantages over other types of finishing:
- There is no need for “wet” work (applying plaster, etc.).
- Restrictions due to weather or temperature conditions is determined by the employee himself based on his own feelings.
- Installing the material does not require any special skills; the ease of installation makes it possible to cover the house yourself.
- The result of the work looks very impressive and lasts a very long time.
This article is a step-by-step installation instruction for dummies.
Siding - cladding material, used for exterior decoration of buildings. It has the shape of elongated narrow stripes with a longitudinal relief applied to them, imitating various options wooden building(most often) or, less commonly, masonry.
The strips (panels, lamellas) are equipped with special sides for fastening to the support on one side and for connecting to each other on the other. The design allows you to assemble canvases of any size from them.
The siding is assembled right on site, which is convenient and practical. The panels are lightweight, so they are easy to lift and carry. In principle, it is possible to work alone, but for large areas with long panels, an assistant is needed.
The birthplace of siding is Canada, where it was first produced.
The first samples were wooden, today there are different types material:
- (PVC, acrylic, etc.)
The most common are plastic (PVC) and metal types siding having best characteristics or the ones that most successfully combine quality with price.
In addition, there are many profile options:
- Timberblock.
- etc.
According to installation direction:
- Horizontal.
- siding.
Some types allow installation in both directions at the request of the owner.
Developers are constantly adding the lineup, therefore there cannot be an exhaustive list; the list always remains open.
Siding kit
In addition to panels capable of forming only planes, additional elements (extensions) are produced, which are used to design the joints of different panels at an angle or in the same plane, for finishing window or door openings, etc.
To standard types can be attributed:
- Simple and complex angle (external and internal).
- H-profile.
- J-bar.
- Starting bar.
- Finish bar.
- Platband.
- Soffit.
- Near-window profile.
All additional elements fully correspond to the main panels in terms of material type, color or type of protective coating.
Attention! Sometimes trims of a different, contrasting color are used as decoration, which gives the cladding an elegant and original look.
Choosing lathing - which is better, wood or metal?
The sheathing is a system of planks arranged in a certain order perpendicular to the direction of the panels and serving as support for them. It is customary to use wooden blocks or metal guides for drywall as the material for the sheathing.
Disputes about this have been heard since the very first days of using cladding. Wooden planks have low thermal conductivity, while metal planks conduct heat very well and require insulation.
At the same time, wooden parts have a common disease - they are susceptible to warping, deformation during drying and rotting. The metal profile does not create such problems; it is protected from corrosion by a layer of galvanization.
Another problem with wooden blocks is curvature. Choosing a perfectly straight one from a pack of bars is a difficult task, since the wood is highly susceptible to bending or twisting with a screw. The metal profile is almost perfectly straight.
Thus, more a good option To create the sheathing, a metal profile is presented, but you should take into account the cavity it creates and fill it in parallel with installing the insulation.
Installation of the selected sheathing
Installation of the sheathing begins with the installation of the outermost strips (if you plan to install vertical siding, then the upper and lower ones). They are attached to the wall at the corners, the position is checked by plumb line. Then a cord (at least two) is stretched between the outer planks, which serves to check the position of the intermediate strips of the sheathing and ensure flatness.
The intermediate strips are installed in increments that allow the insulation boards to be tightly laid between them. To ensure flatness, pieces of wood, plywood, etc. should be placed under them in the right places.(for wooden sheathing) or adjust the height of the metal profile above the wall plane when using a direct (U-shaped) drywall hanger.
After installing the first layer of planks and carrying out intermediate operations, a counter-lattice is installed, which will directly serve as a support for the siding. It is installed perpendicular to the planks of the first layer (and, accordingly, to the siding panels), with a step that ensures optimal fastening of the sheathing (40-60 cm, in some cases - 30-40 cm).
The counter-lattice performs the additional function of providing a ventilation gap between the sheathing and the wall pie, allowing steam to escape.
NOTE!
If you do not plan to install external insulation, then the load-bearing layer of sheathing is installed immediately (perpendicular to the siding panels).
Insulation and waterproofing
During installation of the sheathing, external insulation of the wall can be performed. A material with a vapor permeability higher than that of the wall material is selected as insulation.. This point is very important, otherwise water (condensation) will accumulate at the boundary of the two materials, which will sooner or later cause the destruction of the wall.
Therefore, the most preferable insulation would be slab mineral wool, which allows water vapor to easily pass through. To cut off the ingress of moisture from the outside, a waterproofing layer should be installed. This is done at the stage of completing the installation of the first layer of sheathing and insulation.
A layer of waterproof membrane is installed on top, a material that facilitates the removal of steam, but prevents moisture from entering from the outside. The counter grille is installed on top of the waterproofing layer.
Installation of the starting strip (J profiles)
The starter strip provides support for the bottom row of siding panels. To install it, you need to draw a horizontal line along the perimeter of the house, which is 40 mm above the estimated bottom edge of the panels. Then the starting strip is applied with the upper edge to this line and fixed with self-tapping screws on the sheathing.
CAREFULLY!
The screws should not be tightened tightly; a small gap should be left for the free movement of the strip. The self-tapping screw is screwed in exactly in the middle of the elongated holes so that during temperature changes the part can move and compensate for the change in size without deforming the plane of the skin. This rule applies to all siding elements.
The next strip is not attached closely, but at a distance of 6 mm from the previous one to compensate for temperature stretches.
How is siding attached?
The siding panel is inserted with its lower edge into the lock of the starting strip, snaps into it, and the upper edge is fixed with self-tapping screws on the sheathing. The following panels are attached in a similar way, the skin “grows” from the bottom up (or sideways, if selected vertical type siding).
Attention! In some cases, a top-down installation is used. It is believed that this option is less successful due to the possibility of rainwater penetrating into the lining space, but in practice no problems were found.
Installation of internal corner strips
The corners are installed before installing the main panels, immediately after attaching the starting strip. The internal corner profile is attached with the lower edge at the level of the starting strip; the screw density is recommended to be 25-30 cm.
If the starting bar prevents you from positioning the profile on in the right place, nail strips should be cut from the corner profile to a length equal to the width of the starting profile plus the temperature gap.
If it is necessary to extend the corner strip, cut off the nail strips from the top by 30 mm and overlap the top one over the bottom one for proper water drainage. The amount of overlap is no more than 25 mm to ensure that the temperature gap is maintained.
You can make a corner connection using a J-bar, which is cheaper than a corner connection. This can be done using one plank, when it fits tightly with its outer edge to a row of panels on one side, and the panels on the second side are installed into it.
The second option is to use two strips on each side of the corner, in which case there is a danger of water entering the gap between the strips, since absolute tightness of the connection cannot be achieved here, in addition, temperature gaps are necessary in any case.
Installation of external corner strips
External corner strips are installed in a similar way, adjusted for the reverse geometry of the element. The same overlap joining technique is required, temperature gaps are required, etc. As a replacement for a complex corner, you can use two J-bars located close to each other at the corners.
For external corners, a simpler design method is possible - using a simple corner that is installed on top of the panels. In this case, the siding is installed first without a corner, so that the joint of the planes is as neat as possible, after which a simple corner is screwed on top. Often this option turns out to be the most preferable because it is simpler and for untrained people this option seems optimal.
How to extend siding strips
If it is necessary to end the panels, an H-profile or simple overlapping joint can be used. The size of the overlap is 25 cm; to implement it, you need to cut off the nail strip from one panel on top and part of the lock on the bottom to the length of the overlap plus a temperature gap of 12 mm. It is best to do overlap joining in different places - in each row of panels in different places, so as not to weaken the entire canvas.
Installation of H-profile
The installation of the H-profile is carried out simultaneously with the installation of the corner strips (immediately after the starting strip). The same rules apply as for corner profiles - trimming nail strips for joints and mandatory temperature gaps. The use of an H-profile makes longitudinal joining of panels more aesthetically pleasing and allows you to immediately cut the required number of panels to length for a given area.
Installation of ordinary siding panels
It begins immediately after installing the starting strip and corner and H-profiles. Siding can be immediately cut to the required length, not forgetting the need to leave temperature gaps, which for panels are 12 mm.
The starting bar has a lock, the same as the panels. The first lower strip is inserted into it until it is completely connected and secured along the upper nail strip with self-tapping screws.
The usual rules for siding apply - the self-tapping screw is screwed in exactly in the middle of the oblong hole and loosely fixes the part, leaving room for free movement. The next panel is attached in a similar way. The process of creating a plane itself is simple and does not require any special knowledge other than what is indicated.
Every 3 rows, a horizontal check is made and measures are taken to eliminate distortions if they are detected.
Loose connections or other reasons may disrupt the correct position of the panels, causing slight distortions. If you do not carry out constant monitoring, then by the end of installation the changes may become noticeable and the entire work will be ruined. Therefore, periodic monitoring and correction of the accuracy of the location of the lamellas to the horizontal is necessary.
How to go around windows and doorways with siding
They are decorated in almost the same ways, the only difference is the presence of rain tides on window openings. The method of tying the opening depends on the depth of the block in the plane of the wall.
To design openings located in the same plane as the wall, platbands are used. They have grooves for the end placement of siding, so the installation of platbands is carried out before installing the main panels.
If the openings are up to 20 cm deep, then a J-bar is used. Its installation is carried out on top of the finished panels; the finishing strip must be attached to the window frame around the perimeter.
For large opening depths, sets of the same siding panels are used, cut taking into account the temperature gap along the length of the slope and assembled according to the usual principle. A universal strip is installed along the perimeter of the window block, and a complex angle is mounted at the outer joint of the planes. In this case, it is also necessary to install additional panels before installing the main panels.
To finish the slopes, it is necessary to first install the sheathing on them, which is usually done during the construction of the main one, since the openings need to be insulated along with the plane of the walls. Regardless of the angle of slope, the sheathing of the openings is installed perpendicular to the main one, and the angle is ensured by the position of the finishing or universal strips.
Laying the finishing strip of siding
The finishing strip forms the top (final) edge of the last panel and fixes its position. installation is carried out almost simultaneously with the top panel. The plank is fixed strictly horizontally at the required height, the nail strip on the last panel is cut off.
The panel, with its trimmed edge, on which the locking profile remains, is inserted into the slot of the finishing strip and snaps into it. The shape of the profiles is such that the required gap is maintained, and the lock reliably fixes the panel in the plane of the canvas.
NOTE!
For the correct installation of the finishing strip and the last panel, an accurate calculation made in advance is required, or the possibility of some level discrepancy if a separate pediment cladding is planned.
Installing siding on gables
Either in the same way as the facade, or using vertical arrangement siding panels in contrast to the main fabric. Some fairly precise cutting to length and angle will be required.
A design feature is the need to provide a temperature gap in combination with cutting the panels at an angle, which may result in errors, so careful measurements will be required. It is recommended to start installation from the back sides of the house so that you have some experience before moving to the front side.
Useful video
In this video you will learn how to install siding:
Conclusion
Installing siding yourself is a simple and quite affordable procedure that you can do yourself. The main condition is loose fastening of parts and compliance with temperature gaps; all other subtleties are comprehended intuitively along the way. To successfully complete the work, you should stop rushing and act thoughtfully, then the result will become a source of pride for the owner of the house.
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