- not an easy task. This statement is obvious and understandable both for a professional builder and for a person who is only superficially familiar with the issue. There are no trifles in this matter, and each stage of construction requires careful study and many years of experience practical application acquired knowledge. And although, thanks to the development of technology, the production of many materials and the improvement of tools, the work has been simplified in many ways, some stages represent a task that can only be carried out by a person who really understands the essence of the material.

It is especially important to understand how to install rafters on the roof. It is immediately necessary to make a reservation that if there is no proper experience in carrying out such work, then there is no point in undertaking it. But on the other hand, any experience is a matter of time, and the essence lies in knowledge, so studying the issue at least in theory will certainly not be superfluous.

First, you need to say a few words about what rafters are. This is what the main element is called roofing system, which is long bars located vertically and at an angle relative to the walls. It is the rafters that form the basis of the entire roof. Its main elements are mounted on top of the rafters, which means that mistakes made at the installation stage of the rafter system will lead to disruption of the installation technology of the rest of the roof. In simple terms, improper installation of rafters is a leaking roof. That is why the question of how to properly install a rafter system is of paramount importance when it comes to the roof of a house.

Types of rafters

Speaking about the installation of the rafter system, it should be noted that there are two main technologies for performing the task.

1. Layered rafters.
2. Hanging rafters.

These technologies differ significantly from each other, so it would be fair to consider each option separately and in more detail.

Layered rafters

Layered rafters are those roofing elements that, when installed, in addition to the support point on the mauerlat and among themselves, provide for the installation of special racks on which they will also rest. As a result, it turns out that the resulting thrust stresses and subsequent mechanical loads exerted by the remaining elements of the roof are evenly distributed and mutually compensated.

As for how exactly to install layered rafters on a house, it is useful to know that there are several installation methods. The differences mainly concern the methods of fastening the rafters to the mauerlat and connecting the rafter legs to each other.

• First, the beams used as rafter legs must be prepared. The point is that at the point of their contact with each other, it is necessary to select half the thickness of the beam so that when connecting the rafters to each other, they are strictly in the same plane, without displacement.
• In addition, at the junction of the rafter leg and the mauerlat on the rafters, special cuts can be made, which will help ensure that the supports do not move apart.
• At the top, the rafters, in addition to being fixed to each other, are attached to an additional support - a longitudinal beam, which is laid across the direction of the rafters. Thus, the rafters are already quite firmly fixed.
• Further, the rafter legs can be additionally pulled together at the top or bottom, and possibly in both places, if the situation so requires.

If we talk directly about the methods of fastening rafters, then there are also many options. For these purposes, construction brackets can be used (convenient for fastening rafters to the mauerlat), and various auxiliary struts and ties, as well as steel fastening plates and the like. Self-tapping screws, studs, wooden wedges, the above-mentioned staples and in general anything that the situation and experience in carrying out such work allows can be used as consumable fastening materials.

Hanging rafters

Another option for manufacturing a rafter system is to install hanging rafters on the house. By and large, the process of installing supports using this technology may resemble that described above, but this is not entirely true for a number of reasons, one of which is that for the installation of hanging rafters it is not necessary to install a central support such as a longitudinal beam, as is necessary in the case described above. The rafters are connected to each other and to the Mauerlat, so it turns out that they seem to hang on the frame of the house. This simplifies the work to some extent from the technical side and allows you to install rafter system on houses that do not have a central load-bearing wall.

As for how to install hanging rafters, this happens in general terms as follows:

• First, the bars are connected to each other. At this stage, it is necessary to ensure that the connections are smooth and strong.
• Then I install the formed rafter legs on top of the frame and secure it.

It is important to understand that this process may seem simple only from words, since it entails not only the application of physical effort, but also the use of sufficient large quantity knowledge and skills that not everyone can boast of possessing.

The rafter legs can be fastened together, as in the first option, in several ways. For example, you can tie the rafters together with a horizontal beam at the bottom, just above the level of the Mauerlat, or, conversely, equip an additional tie at the top, closer to the point where the rafters converge. Or you can combine options, which will only add strength to the structure. But here it is important to remember that any excesses are not good for the cause.

The greater the number of additional elements the rafter system has, the greater the weight the entire roof will have, which means the greater the load will be, both on the walls and on the foundation.

Another way to further strengthen hanging rafters is to equip them with a special supporting support, called a “headstock”. First, the rafter legs are pulled together by a beam at the bottom, and then, using this beam as a support element, a vertical support is installed. In addition to the headstock, you can use corner braces, but it is important to remember that, for the reasons described just above, excessive reliance on braces is inappropriate.

To conclude what has been said, we can add that it is in principle possible to install rafters with your own hands. However, for this you need to have both knowledge and experience, and if you don’t have it, then it is better to entrust the work to professionals, and to acquire knowledge you can limit yourself to the “position” of an assistant. Among other things, as a source of additional information on a topic of interest, you can use relevant videos that will help you understand the essence of the issue and clearly demonstrate the upcoming process.

Video

Watch Larry Hohn's educational film about how to build a roof:

The roof is the main element of the building, which protects the entire house from bad weather and precipitation. And depending on the climate in the area, it is advisable to install the appropriate types of roofs. So, if a strong wind blows very often, then it is better to make a roof with a gentle slope. But if precipitation is far from a rare occurrence, then it would be best to install a high roof. After all, this way precipitation can freely slide down from it without remaining on the house.

Regardless of what type of roof your house belongs to (and there can be many types), rafters, or, as they are also called, truss, are a mandatory element. This element represents wooden boards, which firmly connect all other elements. Thus, the rafters bear the main load and act as the frame of the roof. It should be remembered that the larger the span of the roof, the more rafters will be needed to ensure the strongest adhesion of the remaining parts. It is very important to figure out how to properly install rafters on a house with your own hands.

Tools and material for work

Before we move on to considering basic tips for arranging these elements, you need to know what tools and materials are needed for the job. The entire installation process will depend on their availability and quality. You will definitely need:

• large staples;
• crossbars;
• hammer;
• large nails;
• wooden board for beams and rafters.

Particular attention must be paid to wooden elements. The entire tree should have a humidity level of 12%, and there should be no areas damaged by bark beetles and other bugs. It is also important that the wood does not have cracks that could harbor fungus or insects. Before work, you need to keep the boards indoors and soak them with antiseptics several times so that they do not deteriorate later.

Two main types of rafters for the house

Today, there are two main types of rafters.

These are hanging and layered rafters. They have the simplest design. The principle of their installation is to connect at the top with a ridge and a stop in the roof beam, which is located on its base at the bottom. are already more complex. They are considered more reliable, since in this case each leg from below is equipped with at least two supports.

Rules for installing hanging rafters

But it is very important to know how to install rafters of both the first and second types. So, let's start with the hanging rafters. It is most effective to install them where the span spacing is about 10 meters, but no more. This is an ideal solution for thin walls. When installing, you need to follow these basic rules:

1. Before starting work, it is necessary to first strengthen the rafter system. For this, a crossbar and staples are used. First you need to cut the crossbar into them, and then firmly connect them with staples. But if the span is 7 meters or more, then it is advisable to connect these rafters with a beam, which is then secured both in the tie and on the ridge. This connection is also made using a crossbar and staples.
2. It is very important to use a metal brush when working. This is a special element that goes directly into the brickwork and is fixed there. The ruff is simply driven into every fourth row of masonry. The wooden beams will be attached to special hinges that will stick out from brickwork. In this case, along the entire length of the walls, a very thick wooden beam must be secured to the base, which will subsequently distribute the load.
3. When erecting rafters, it is important to maintain the distance between individual structural elements at a level of approximately 12-13 cm. In this case, special attention must be paid to the chimney pipe, if any. Here this distance must be slightly larger to ensure a sufficient fire break. And the wooden elements around the pipe must be additionally trimmed with a special material that will protect against heating.
4. When erecting rafters, it is very important to ensure their correct length. It is necessary that each rafter board is half a meter longer than the overhang and at the same time that the board does not extend beyond the roof. Therefore, it is necessary to nail so-called “fillies” to each board. It is very easy to build fillies yourself from a good board, the cross-section of which is about 6x12 cm. This way, making a junction of the rafters with the base will be very easy, and the fastening will be reliable.

But these were the basic rules for installing hanging rafters. As for layered rafters, everything is somewhat more complicated here. Although the basic rules that were discussed above remain the main ones, in addition to them, this additional advice should be taken into account. In hanging rafters, one side of the beam must exactly rest against the purlin (it must be installed on racks along the wall of the house) running along the ridge, and the other - against the mauerlat. Please note that it is the layered type structure that can be installed on the massive walls of the house, since it is quite heavy. In this case, it is good to tighten the rafter legs together with a beam for the ceiling.

So, the basic principles have been reviewed. Now you roughly understand how to install the rafters. All this is technically not as difficult as it might immediately seem. However, all the work will require sufficient physical training and assistants from you, since it is almost impossible to do it yourself.

Rafters for mansard and hip roofs

Now it is still important to understand superficially the intricacies for two types of roofs: hip and mansard. These processes are somewhat different. Therefore, it is important to know how to do this work correctly in order to avoid problems in the future during the operation of the roof.

First, let's look at everything that concerns the hip roof type. The most important point here is the installation of additional ramp structures, which ultimately should be at the junction with the ridge. As a result, you will have a double roof. Its first part is pitched. Only with all this, the slopes do not cover the entire roof area. Closer to the base there are open areas that need to be additionally covered with the help of hips.

It is very important to strengthen all the side beams, which must bear the entire load. Because of this, you need to remember: the greater the load on these beams, the closer to each other the rafters must be placed. This way you will achieve maximum reliability.

Another point of this type of roof is the correct ratio of proportions between the pitched and hip parts of the roof. It is quite difficult to determine them on your own, but this does not mean at all that the roof will not be reliable enough. It just might get really bad decorative look. Therefore, even at the design stage, it is advisable to involve a specialist who will distribute these proportions correctly.

Now let's move on to the attic type of roof. This type of roof is more complex, but if you want to make your work much easier without spoiling the appearance and functional characteristics of the roof, you can make a simplified version of it - clearly triangular slopes.

In this option, you need to pay special attention to the lower part of the rafters, since it is this that will act, strange as it may sound, as the basis for the floor. For this purpose, it is advisable to choose wooden beams with a large cross-section so that the floors can withstand heavy loads. And they need to be built strictly parallel to each other. But as for all other parts made of wood, beams with a smaller cross-section can also be successfully used for them, and boards can also be used a little thinner than usual.

So, the basic tips for installing rafters are fully covered. Now you can safely get to work. If you do everything correctly, then during operation your roof will not cause you any problems and will serve for a very long time.

Installation of rafters is one of the key stages of roof construction. To ensure that the rafter system does not deform or collapse under high loads during operation, the rafters must be properly secured.

Calculation of rafter pitch

At what distance are the rafters placed? When designing a rafter system, special attention is paid to this issue. The strength characteristics of the roofing system depend on the cross-section of the rafters and the pitch of their installation.

The rafter pitch is the distance between adjacent rafter legs. The minimum pitch of the rafters is 60 cm, the maximum is more than 1 meter. A simplified version of calculating rafter pitch involves using the table:

The length of the eaves slope must be divided by the rafter pitch selected in the table, then add one to the resulting value and round up to a whole number. The resulting result indicates the required number of rafter legs per slope. Then the length of the slope along the eaves should be divided by the calculated number of rafter legs - the final number corresponds to the value of the center distance between the rafters.

This calculation method is general, it does not take into account the specifics of roofing coverings and the type of insulation used. If you intend to lay a roll or slab insulator, it is recommended to adjust the pitch of the rafters to the size of the material. It should be taken into account that the width of the cotton insulation should be 1-1.5 cm greater than the span between the rafters.

When determining at what distance to install the rafters, you should also pay attention to the recommendations for installing the selected roofing.

Preparation of material

Installing rafters with your own hands requires not only knowledge of the process technology, but also proper preparation of the wooden elements of the system for installation. The rafters are made from edged boards or timber; the cross-section of the lumber is selected at the roof design stage. The tree should not have cracks, wormholes or other damage.

Rafter legs should be made of well-dried coniferous wood to prevent their deformation.

Wooden elements must be treated with fire retardant and bioprotective compounds. Before you begin installation, you need to decide on the method of attaching the rafters to the mauerlat or beams, and the type of ridge connection. In accordance with the project, metal and wooden fasteners are selected, including:

• plates (made of metal or wood);
• bolts or studs with nuts and wide washers;
• nails, screws, staples, etc.;
• wire rod.

Types of rafters and features of their installation

When constructing the roof of a house, hanging or layered rafters are used. In some cases, a combination of both may be used. Hanging ones rest only on the walls of the building, while layered ones require the installation of additional supporting structures, so this option is primarily used if there is a middle load-bearing wall or support pillars inside the building box.

The lower part of the layered rafters rests against the mauerlat; accordingly, the walls of the structure must have sufficient width for the installation of a special supporting structure made of timber with a cross-section of 150×150 mm. The upper part of the layered rafters rests on the ridge girder. Thus, the installation of roof rafters requires the installation of a purlin, for which racks should be mounted on the middle wall or pillars.

Hanging rafters rest only on the walls. This design can be mounted both on the Mauerlat and on thin walls without laying the Mauerlat. In this case, the support for the lower part of the legs is provided by floor beams protruding beyond the plane of the wall on both sides of the building. Hanging rafters are connected by a jumper (tightening, crossbar) which relieves the pushing forces. When covering large purlins, the trusses are reinforced with additional elements to enhance the rigidity of the structure. When installing hanging rafters on a mauerlat, a low-lying tie can serve as a floor beam.

Before installing the rafters, it is necessary to mount the scaffolding. This makes it possible to ensure the necessary safety and convenience of work.

Installation of the upper ends of the rafters

When choosing how to install rafters, it is important to evaluate the complexity of the work and the weight of the rafter structures. If the assembled truss has a relatively light weight, or it is possible to use lifting equipment, then it is easier to assemble the structures on the ground, and then lift and install them on the roof. If the elements of the system are heavy and have to be lifted manually, then the trusses are assembled on the roof.

The connection of the upper ends of the rafters can be done different ways. First of all, this is a butt mount. On the opposing rafter legs, cuts are made at the desired angle. Then the rafters are joined with the resulting ends and attached to two nails. The connection is further reinforced with a wooden or metal overlay.

Attaching the rafter legs with an overlap is done using bolts or studs with wide washers and nuts. In this case, the rafters are in contact with the planes.

If the rafter system is mounted on a wooden house with gables made of timber or logs, it is necessary to install the rafters on the walls using sliding fasteners to avoid deformation of the roof during shrinkage of the structure. Accordingly, in the ridge part, the rafters must be connected in a special way: the rafter legs must be positioned with a gap, and they are fastened together using a special movable metal connecting element.

If there is a ridge beam, installation of rafter trusses on the ground is not required - the rafter legs are installed one at a time and attached to the ridge girder.

The ridge run must be positioned strictly horizontally so that the rafter system evenly distributes the load experienced by the roof.

Methods for installing rafters on walls

The lower ends of the rafters are attached to beams or mauerlats. The hanging rafter trusses, assembled according to a template, rise to the roof. The outer trusses are installed first. It is necessary to make two or three holes in the tightening to attach the rafters to the beams laid on the upper crown of the frame.

If hanging rafters are mounted on a stone building, it is necessary to use special fasteners - the so-called “ruff”, made of durable steel. This fastener is driven into every fourth row of brickwork. Using the loops extending from the ruff, you can secure the beams. It is recommended to use a strong beam as a mauerlat - in this case the load will be evenly transferred to the walls.

On buildings made of brick or other material that is not prone to shrinkage, the rafters should be firmly secured. To do this, a cutout is made in the rafter leg, the lower part of which should lie firmly on the Mauerlat. The rafter is fixed with three nails (two are driven in on both sides at an angle, and the third vertically from above) and tied with wire. A connection using corners and a support bar can also be used to prevent the rafters from shifting.

Proper installation of rafters involves making a fire break in the place where the chimney passes through the roof. If its arrangement involves the installation of a special rafter system, this should be taken into account when installing a shortened rafter leg (from the Mauerlat to the chimney structure). The distance between the structural elements and the pipe must be at least 130 mm.

If rafter leg rests on the mauerlat without an overhang, then to create an overhang of the roof you should install special boards - fillies.

The installation of rafters when installing a sloping attic roof has its own characteristics. In this case, first of all, a rectangular frame of racks and purlins is mounted. Then hanging rafter trusses with a crossbar spacer are attached to the purlins mounted on the racks. Next, each rack is connected by a short rafter to the Mauerlat.

Installing rafters with your own hands: how to install correctly and at what distance

Learn how to install rafters yourself. Choosing the correct distance and method of installing rafters along with a video.

Installation of rafters: specifics of cutting and rules for installing the rafter system

The rafter frame sets the geometric and operational parameters of the pitched roof. Due to violations in installation technology, due to flaws in the manufacture of its elements, system distortions, traditional leaks, and holes in the coating appear, threatening emergency situations. In order to build a reliable and stable roofing structure, you need to clearly know how to cut and install rafters with subsequent fixation to the supporting elements.

Classification of rafter legs

Rafters, or rafter legs, are called wooden or metal beams, installed on the frame of the house at a given angle. They determine the configuration of the roof structure, take on and firmly resist the sum of permanent and temporary loads acting on the upper enclosing system of the building.

The structural simplicity of the rafter legs is extremely deceptive. In fact, these are quite complex elements that require careful marking and careful cutting. Inconsistencies in the connections of the rafter legs with the Mauerlat, with each other and with other components of the system lead to a change in the shape of the slopes, disruption of the integrity of the coating and destruction of the nodes.

On the other hand, proper installation of rafter legs can correct some errors in the construction of the frame of the house, and not aggravate the situation by clearly repeating and increasing differences in wall heights. True, in such situations, the frame elements are manufactured individually and scrupulously adjusted after the fact directly on site.

However, before understanding the specifics of installation, you need to find out what their design differences are, according to which rafter legs are divided into two groups:

• Hanging. A type of rafters that do not have an upper support. At the top of the roof, the rafter legs rest against each other with their ends. So that under the weight of the components of the roofing pie and snow, such a structure does not burst apart the Mauerlat beam, the hanging rafters are connected with a horizontally installed tie.
• Layered. A type of rafter legs, laid on two supports of different heights. At the top, they most often rest on a ridge purlin installed in a cross to the rafters; less often, their ends, sawn at an angle, rest against each other. The bottom rests on the mauerlat beam or rests against it.

The scope of their application and installation technology depend on which group the rafter legs belong to. The hanging variety is assembled on the ground, and the trusses, made in the form of peculiar triangles, are lifted to the roof and mounted in a form fully prepared for installation.

Plus facilities rafter frame using hanging technology is the safety of work and the ability to make node connections as accurately as possible. If the simplest version of a hanging truss with a tie at the bottom is used in the construction of the roof, you can abandon the installation of a Mauerlat, in the place of which a narrow leveling board is quite suitable.

The disadvantages of hanging technology accompany the advantages. For example, a truss assembled on the ground is much more difficult to transport to the installation site than boards and timber for layered rafters. There are restrictions on the spans to be covered: the limit is considered to be 14 m, above which it is unreasonable to install wooden beams that are prone to sagging without intermediate supports.

The rafter legs of the layered group, both top and bottom, rest on independent structures. Their tops are laid on a purlin structure, which is mounted on floor beams or on a beam that replaces the mauerlat on the inner wall. The bottom is either installed on the Mauerlat or rests against it, catching on the beam with a tooth or a support bar sewn in place of the tooth.

The advantage of layered systems is rightfully recognized as the ability to cover spans of almost any size. It’s just that as the overlapped space increases, the design becomes more complicated: it is supplemented with struts paired with racks, additional purlins coupled with beds, and contractions.

The layered structure takes longer to assemble and install, because it is constructed not from trusses, but from individual elements. However, just this scheme more possibilities in correcting defects in the frame or unevenly settled frame. Because Layered rafters are laid individually; it is possible to slightly change the position and size of the unit in order to ultimately form an impeccably leveled plane of the slope.

Specifics of manufacturing and laying rafters

It is clear that for the construction of the rafter system, lumber will be needed - long-length products from forest processing enterprises with clear geometric parameters. You will need a board or timber, which, naturally, does not have mounting cuts or notches for installation.

Why are cuts and cuts needed? The fact is that when placed on an edge, the boards and beams have too small a support area. They contact the Mauerlat with only one thin line, which is why, at the slightest load from above, they can simply “move out” from their occupied position and drag the entire structure along with them.

In order to increase the support area at the junction of the rafters and the mauerlat, or it and an additional purlin, a corner notch is selected in the beam or board, a tooth is cut out, or a support block is sewn on. If the top of the rafter is connected to a mirror-opposite analogue, then for a reliable stop you will need a cut, the plane of which must be clearly perpendicular to the horizon.

The basic rule in the construction of rafter frames is that the platforms chosen for support in the lumber are strictly horizontal and vertical. At the slightest violation of horizontality and verticality, stability is lost, structural parts shift under their own weight and the action of the load up to complete destruction systems.

Let us note that the nodes of rafter systems are responsible for ensuring the possibility of slight displacement and rotation when the load is exceeded. These movements are necessary so that the structure bends slightly, moves slightly, but does not collapse and remains stable.

These subtleties should be known to both the craftsman who has decided to make and install rafters with his own hands, and the owner of a house under construction who does not want to pay for the poor-quality labor efforts of the construction team. Let's look at common options to understand the essence of the process.

Construction of a roof frame using hanging technology

Let's look at an example of constructing a rafter system over log house baths The span between the walls is small, it is easier and more reasonable to cover it with a hanging structure, the installation of which will be carried out on the bypasses of the ceiling beams - matits.

A log base is an almost ideal option for installing hanging systems, because it is easiest to cut it into the horizon, eliminating the need to adjust the rafters in case of violation of the foot geometry. There is no need to install a Mauerlat. However, the tie will have to be moved upward to bypass the upper crown of the frame and form a useful attic space.

Before installing the rafters, stage-by-stage preparation of the log house is carried out. On both sides of the foot, we align the bypasses according to the lace tied to the nails driven into the two outer beams. On top of the bypasses we cut off the slab so that the edge of each beam ends with a flat horizontal platform.

The layer formed after cutting off the upper convexity of the log along the edges of the beams is leveled to the horizon according to the level. We apply the specified control tool to three or more beams at the same time. If the level is not long enough to carry out such a check, use a long strip or board instead.

After trimming off all the excess, we mark the sockets for the rafter tooth. To do this, we again use nails and lace. Note that nest sampling sites can be marked on the crossings both before and after the construction of hanging trusses. However, it is much more convenient to make the nests before making the rafters. They will help you carry out fittings with higher accuracy.

To make your work easier, it is advisable to find the center of the log house on the side of the future tongs. At these points it is recommended to nail along a control strip, one of the edges of which will indicate the axis of symmetry. You can do without slats if you already have some experience in building roofs.

• We sew two inch boards 10 - 15 cm longer than the designed length of the rafters at the top with a nail or bolt so that they can rotate around this connecting point.
• On a strip installed in the center of the future gable, we mark the design height of the rafter system. We put another mark above it - this is the height of the tooth, more precisely, the length of the vertical line laid from the base of the tooth to its top.
• We place the boards sewn at one point at the extreme bypasses so that the corner of each board rests on the future socket under the tooth.
• We align the connection point of the boards with the top mark on the rail, which determines the length of the rafters with the tooth.
• From the bottom corner of both rafters we set off the height of the tooth, return with the template blank to the ground and cut out the tooth according to the markings.
• We return the template blank to its place, install it by inserting the teeth into the slots intended for them. It may happen that after installation the top of the workpiece does not coincide with the instructions of the staff. Then you need to pull out the nail and adjust the position of the top, making sure to mark a new point.
• After adjusting the top, we draw a vertical line of their upcoming joint on both boards, measure the size of the crossbar and mark on the scraps of the board the shape of the overlays for the upper junction of the rafters.

If everything turned out exactly and no further adjustments are required, the template is ready. We return with him to earth. We disassemble the workpiece and make cuts along the marked lines. The parts obtained as a result of fitting and fitting will serve as a standard for the almost continuous production of roof trusses in the required quantity.

We will assemble hanging trusses on the ground. Their installation, as well as fitting, should be carried out by at least two people. One master simply cannot cope with such work. The person at the top will install the truss, and the second will change its position according to the instructions of the plumb line. The position of each leveled and installed truss should be fixed with temporary spacers.

To increase the stability of the system, we will install racks under the rafters:

• Let's mark the mats for the installation site of additional supports using the already proven method: we hammer in a nail on opposite sides and pull the string tight.
• We will hollow out nests in the logs according to the markings.
• Let's try on a piece of timber for the installation site. Let's mark a line on it, taking into account the height of the tenon.
• Let's make a stand and two pads for attaching it to the rafter.
• We will install the support we have made and similarly secure the position of the truss on the other side. We continue to work according to the verified scheme until we equip each rafter with additional support.

To ensure the rigidity of the hanging system, the trusses are connected by wind ties - boards, poles or slats nailed from the inside of the structure. On the outside of the rafter frame, the rigidity will increase due to the construction of the sheathing.

The rafter legs are attached to the mats with 200 mm nails or corner brackets. In this regard, metal corners and plates with perforations for fasteners are noticeably inferior to traditional methods. To the sides of the rafters we nail fillets made of boards, the width of which is half the size of the material used in the manufacture of the rafters.

The length of the fillies should be 70–80 cm greater than the designed width of the overhang. This distance is needed to securely connect them to the rafter legs. The fillies can be cut in advance, or you can nail scraps of narrow boards to the rafters without preliminary cuts, and then draw a line for the cornice. However, the first option is more convenient and economical.

In most cases, as in the example given, the fillies must be partially buried in the bypasses of the mats, for this:

• We note the actual width of the filly at the bypass.
• We make two cuts with a saw according to the markings for 2/3 of the thickness of the filly. We also use a saw to cut the log between the outer cuts. We refine the recess with a chisel accompanied by a hammer.
• We install the fillies in the formed recesses and sew them to the rafters with nails 100 mm long.

Upon completion of the installation of all fillies, we hammer a nail into the outermost ones. Pull the control cord and mark where the excess should be sawed off.

Installation of a layered roof frame

The construction of a rafter frame using layered technology has much in common with the installation hanging structure. The fitting is carried out in almost the same sequence, so it makes no sense to describe the actions twice. The main difference is in the methods of forming the upper node, because the tops of the layered rafters have a support - a ridge girder.

If the layered rafters at the top simply rest on the ridge girder, they are laid either with a run, i.e. parallel to each other, or with a strictly vertical joint, similar to the joining of hanging legs. However, in most cases, they try to secure the upper part with a notch or a vertical cut, tightly abutting it to the ridge beam.

There are schemes according to which the layered rafters rest not on the ridge, but on the side girder. In such situations, the top is formed according to the hanging principle, and the point of support on the purlin is formed with a corner notch.

Let us analyze the most popular option in private construction for constructing rafter legs based on the lower corner notch and on the ridge run through a vertical cut. Please note that the maximum cutting depth should not exceed 1/3 of the board width.

Option for marking with a construction square:

• On the square we mark the height of the roof and half the span on a scale. These values ​​display the slope of the slopes and set the main angles. The proportions must be kept exactly.
• If further use of the square is not planned, then you can mark the deferred points with screwed bosses or short screws with screws; if you plan, it is better to use paint that can be removed with a solvent.
• We apply a square to the laid flat board with the side on which the height of the roof is marked. We draw a line according to the readings of the square - this is the line of the upper cut of the rafter - the area where it connects with the ridge girder.
• Cut along the marked line with a circular saw. We lay the board for sawing flat, as it should be when cutting wide. Longitudinal cuts are made on the edge.
• From the top of the formed angle we set off the length of the so-called diagonal. This is the distance from the point of connection with the purlin to the outer edge of the Mauerlat or top harness, if being settled frame house.
• Move the square to this point. We draw a line parallel to the first one.
• We turn the square over, move it along the workpiece so that 2/3 of the total distance is on the left, and 1/3 on the right. In the picture these are 8ʺ and 4ʺ.
• The line of the smaller segment will mark the cut for us.

At the end, we draw the outline of the eaves overhang on the board, cut it along the outlined lines and use the rafter blank we made ourselves to cut the remaining elements of the roof.

You can apply the described method without a construction square and marking the roof parameters on it. It is enough to imagine the process to set aside the necessary distances with a conventional drawing tool. However, without experience, you can get confused in calculating angles and segments.

To help beginning builders, a template has been developed with options for forming corner notches. It will help you navigate the production of rafter legs from the most common lumber in this area.

In cases of laying rafter legs with notches in the upper and lower parts, it should be remembered that the depth of both notches must be the same, so that during construction work The roof slope has not changed. Usually, to create two equal notches, an auxiliary block is used, the thickness of which is no more than 1/3 of the thickness of the board.

The rafter blank is then installed edge-on on the mauerlat and on the purlin. The block is applied to the side in the area of ​​the lower and upper node to outline the notch.

If a notch is needed only in the lower part of the rafter, and the top will rest on the purlin with a cut, the board is installed below on the mauerlat, and at the top on the purlin and block, so that as a result of cutting the angle of the slope does not change. At the bottom, a second block of a similar size is applied to the future node and, with its help, the outline of the future notch is outlined.

The same methods are used to form cuts with teeth. The only difference is in the shape.

The installation of layered rafters begins with the installation of two outer trusses. The elements are mounted one at a time, their position is carefully checked using a plumb level. Most often, the outer trusses are made from paired boards, because more load is distributed over them. They are fixed with temporary spacers, then connected with lace or strip to indicate the plane of the slope.

Ordinary rafters located between the outermost load-bearing trusses are installed according to the instructions with laces. If necessary, adjust the position of the legs according to the actual situation.

Installing rafters: how to make and lay roof rafters with your own hands

Let's figure out how to install rafters. An overview of the technologies that need to be followed by those who want to properly make roof rafters with their own hands.

DIY rafters and installing them on the roof

The rafter system is the foundation of the roof. Therefore, installing rafters with your own hands must be approached with a great deal of responsibility. The durability of the roof will depend on how well you perform the calculation and assembly of the rafters.

The rafters take on all the loads: from the roof, snow, wind. Therefore, it is important that the wood for them is ideal. It should be free of chips, cracks, knots, signs of rot and other defects.

Types of rafter systems

There are hanging and layered rafters.

Layers form roof slopes. The supports for them are internal and external walls. Rafters are used mainly for constructing roofs with one slope.

For a gable roof they are used only when the house structure has an additional supporting wall.

Hanging rafters are good because they can be used over large spans without additional supports. Additionally, crossbars are installed, which reduce the load on the roof from snow.

Hanging rafters are installed on the roof with your own hands if the span is no more than seven meters wide.

For larger values, it is necessary to additionally mount a vertical spacer (headstock). When the distance between spans is more than nine meters, struts are nailed to the rafter legs at an angle.

It is impossible to imagine a roof truss without additional spacer elements. Take this into account when constructing a rafter system with your own hands. For example, tightening prevents the rafters from spreading, which can occur due to the pressure exerted on the roof. But one puff is not enough. The beams will begin to sag under load and may break. To avoid this, crossbars and also “headstocks” are installed.

And these conditions apply to the construction of any roof. Even the roof frame house built with your own hands, it needs various reinforcements, despite the fact that the structure of such a roof is one of the lightest.

But before we move on to building a roof, it is necessary to build a house. You can read about how to build a frame house here. Houses using this technology quickly became popular not only in our country. They are built in a short time, do not require huge financial outlays, and have good performance characteristics, environmentally friendly.

The main thing you should pay special attention to when self-assembly rafters - quality of connections. Let's talk about this in more detail.

Rigid connection

To connect the rafter legs to the Mauerlat, a rigid connection is often used. Its essence is that at the end of the rafter leg a cut is made at an angle of 90 degrees. This part of the leg rests securely on the Mauerlat.

For a more durable connection, the rafter is fixed to a horizontal beam metal corner or three nails: two at an angle, one at the top.

Sliding joint

At sliding joint a groove is made in the mauerlat into which the rafter leg is inserted. Fastening is carried out using “sleds” with self-tapping screws or nails.

Connecting the rafters to each other

There are several ways to fasten the rafters together at the top. Method 1 - butt fastening. To do this, the ends of the rafter legs are laid overlapping each other. Next, a vertical cut is made. After this, the rafters are placed end to end and secured with two nails at an angle. Additionally, you can use a metal plate that is mounted between the rafters at the top.

Extension of rafters: timber

You can build up rafters from timber using the cutting method. To do this, cuts are made at the ends of the beams, with a length equal to twice the height of the section. The height of the cuts should be equal to 1/5 of the height of the beam.

After joining the bars, a hole for a bolt is drilled in them, and the bars are connected.

Extension of rafters: board

There are more connection options here. You can overlap the boards. The length of the overlap is approximately the same as half the length of the board.

A secure connection is made using ten nails driven in at a 45 degree angle.

You can join the boards end-to-end and nail the board along the seam on both sides.

When installing rafters with your own hands, you must constantly ensure that they are positioned exactly at the same level. It is better to assemble trusses directly in the attic, since they are very heavy, and lifting them is quite difficult without special equipment. The dimensions and shape of the rafters are also acquired at the top.

Before starting to build the roof, it is necessary to separate the floor using a ceiling. Floors in a house made of foam blocks are part general design home, which is not inferior in importance to the foundation and roof.

If you have already made the ceilings, then think about whether you want to make a roof for the room. Houses in which part of the volume under the roof is equipped as a living space are called houses with an attic.

The features of constructing a house roof from foam blocks are described in this article. When erecting a roof, it is necessary to strive to reduce its weight so that the load on the walls is small. However, if the house has a reinforced concrete frame, then you can deviate from this recommendation.

Self-installation of the rafter system

Installing a rafter system is a simple process. First you need to assemble a truss on the roof. You can do this however you like, depending on its type.

It is convenient to make a truss with a tie at the bottom.

First, a beam or board of the required length is cut. They will play the role of tightening. To do this, measure the distance between the walls of the house, including the walls themselves. Next they prepare vertical beam(board), which will stand between the tie and the rafter legs. Its length must be adjusted so that when the rafter legs are connected to it at the top point, the required slope of the slopes is obtained. Make calculations taking into account that the roof should hang over the eaves by at least half a meter.

The first truss should be used as a template. A second farm is immediately built on it. All calculations must be written down. After you have built the rafters with your own hands, you need to install the assembled structures along the edges of the roof and stretch the rope between them. When installing intermediate trusses, it is necessary to control their height along it.

Before installing intermediate trusses, markings must be made along the perimeter of the roof in order to accurately maintain the pitch between the rafters during installation. When all the roof trusses are installed, you can begin installing the sheathing, counter-lattice, laying roofing material and insulating the roof.

Construction of rafters with your own hands and the process of installing them on the roof of your house

The rafter system is the skeleton of the roof. To prevent it from falling apart, you must follow the basic rules for making wood for rafters and be able to assemble them correctly and

How to properly install rafters on a gable roof: expert advice

If you decide to build a house or a small outbuilding, then you need to protect the building from moisture, and for this you need to build a roof. The design of the roof can be different, but in most cases a gable roof is used. Proven for centuries, it is easy to install and compatible with any type of roofing. Its installation is carried out on the sheathing, and it is pressed onto the rafters. In order for the roof to last for a long time, you need to know exactly how to correctly install the rafters on the roof.

The most actively used material from which rafters are made is wood. Usually, blanks made from coniferous wood are used, since the structure impregnated with resin allows the wood to retain its qualities for a long time and is light in weight. When choosing a material, it is advisable to avoid boards with knots and large cracks. It is not recommended to use freshly sawn boards and beams to make a rafter frame; the wood should be dried.

The rafters need to be assembled into a triangular truss; this design allows for optimal rigidity, and it affects the load-bearing capacity of the entire building.

Components of the truss structure

Rafter systems are divided into two types:

1. Hanging. They are used if the width of the wall along the front does not reach 10 m. When using a hanging system, the rafters rest on the side walls, and they are connected using a tie to equalize the load.
2. Layered. They are used in the presence of load-bearing walls, if the width of the wall along the gable is more than 10 m. In order to strengthen the rafter system, a vertical beam is placed in the middle, through which the entire load on the wall is distributed, as well as the beam.

The installation of the rafter system must begin with the Mauerlat. The place for its installation is planned during the construction of the walls. To do this on outside The walls need to be laid out with a ledge, and the Mauerlat should be laid at the inner edge. To attach it use:

• binding wire;
• anchor bolts;
• wood plugs;
• fittings, cut into pieces.

The intended location for laying the Mauerlat must be waterproofed, and the timber must be treated with an antiseptic. To reduce the number of joints, the timber must be chosen as long as possible. If suddenly the length of the beam turns out to be small, you need to make an oblique cut, and then connect the two parts using self-tapping screws, nails and staples. The length of the cut should be up to 1 meter.

To make rafter legs, you need to cut the boards to the required length. A beam measuring 50 × 20 is well suited for this. The connection should not be located in the middle; the required offset is 1/3 of the entire length of the rafters.

For smaller buildings, roof trusses are easier to assemble on the ground and then raise to the roof.

You need to start installing the rafters from the outer gable trusses. The building level controls the verticality of their installation. And for precise installation of intermediate trusses, it is advisable to tension the cord from above and below.

The rafter legs are installed in increments of 0.6 to 1.2 m, and the trusses are secured to each other with a temporary clamp.

After installing all the trusses, they are fastened with a board in the upper chord, and the clamps are removed.

If the span is more than 6 m, and there is a load-bearing wall in the center of the house, then the rafters need to be installed differently. Supports are installed in the center, and a ridge beam is mounted on them. The rafters are attached to it alternately. Installation, as usual, begins with the outer supports. It is necessary to stretch the cord between them to install the remaining rafters in the same plane. An additional beam can be installed between the internal supports; it will strengthen the ridge beam.

Having decided on the angle of inclination and height of the roof, you can make a template to facilitate marking work. All rafters are the same length, so you can cut down on the ground and assemble the prepared structure at the top.

If the rafters are installed without a central purlin, then they can be overlapped together. The upper points must be fixed rigidly, and a crossbar must be installed below.

Having become familiar with how to install rafters on a small building, you can do this work correctly yourself.

How to install rafters on a gable roof: expert advice

How to properly install rafters on a gable roof: expert advice If you decide to build a house or small outbuilding, then you need to protect the building from moisture, and

Do-it-yourself rafter system for a gable roof - installation instructions

A gable roof or gable roof is a roof with two slopes, i.e. having 2 inclined surfaces (slopes) of a rectangular shape.

Due to its design features, the frame of a gable roof ideally combines simplicity of design and maintenance with reliability and durability. These and many other parameters make the construction of a gable roof practical and rational decision for private and commercial housing construction.

In this article, we will look at how to make a rafter system for a gable roof with your own hands. For effective perception of the material, it is presented in the form of step-by-step instructions from A to Z, from selection and calculations, to installation of the Mauerlat and sheathing under the roof. Each stage is accompanied by tables, diagrams, drawings, drawings and photos.

The popularity of the house roof is due to a number of advantages:

• design variability;
• simplicity in calculations;
• naturalness of water flow;
• integrity of the structure reduces the likelihood of leaks;
• efficiency;
• preserving the usable area of ​​the attic or the possibility of arranging an attic;
• high maintainability;
• strength and wear resistance.

Types of gable roof

Installation of the rafter system gable roof depends primarily on its design.

There are several options for gable roofs (types, types):

1. Simple gable roof - symmetrical

A simple gable roof is symmetrical. The most common roof design option due to its simplicity and reliability. Thanks to symmetry, a uniform distribution of loads on the load-bearing walls and mauerlat is achieved. The type and thickness of the insulation does not affect the choice of material.

The cross-section of the beam makes it possible to provide a reserve of bearing capacity. There is no possibility of rafters bending. Supports and struts can be placed almost anywhere.

An obvious drawback is the impossibility of arranging a full attic floor. Due to sharp corners, “dead” zones appear that are unsuitable for use.

2. Simple asymmetrical gable roof

A simple asymmetrical gable roof The installation of one angle of more than 45° leads to a reduction in the amount of unused area. There is an opportunity to make living rooms under the roof. At the same time, the requirements for calculations increase, because the load on the walls and foundation will be distributed unevenly.

3. Broken gable roof, with external and/or internal fracture

Broken gable roof, with an external and/or internal break. This roof design allows you to equip full second roof floor.

Naturally, a simple gable rafter roof differs from a broken roof, not only visually. The main difficulty lies in the complexity of the calculations.

Design of a gable roof truss system

Building a roof of any complexity with your own hands requires knowledge of the purpose of the main structural elements.

The locations of the elements are shown in the photo.

Elements of a gable roof rafter system Elements of the rafter system of a gable roof - diagram 2
Elements of the rafter system of a gable roof - diagram 3

• Mauerlat. Designed to distribute the load from the rafter system onto the load-bearing walls of the building. To arrange the Mauerlat, a timber made of durable wood is selected. Preferably larch, pine, oak. The cross-section of the beam depends on its type - solid or glued, as well as on the expected age of the structure. The most popular sizes are 100x100, 150x150 mm.

The silhouette of the roof truss defines appearance buildings. Examples of farms in the photo.

Roof truss system options

The parameters of the rafters are important. They will be discussed below.

• Puff- connects the rafter legs and gives them rigidity.

• Run:

• • Ridge run, is mounted at the junction of one rafter to another. In the future, the roof ridge will be installed on it.

• • Side purlins, they provide the truss with additional rigidity. Their number and size depend on the load on the system.

• Rafter stand- vertically located beam. It also takes on part of the load from the weight of the roof. In a simple gable roof it is usually located in the center. With a significant span width - in the center and on the sides. In an asymmetrical gable roof, the installation location depends on the length of the rafters. If there is a broken roof and one room is arranged in the attic, the racks are located on the sides, leaving free space for movement. If there are supposed to be two rooms, the racks are located in the center and on the sides.

The location of the rack depending on the length of the roof is shown in the figure.

Rack location depending on roof length

In regions with significant wind and snow loads, not only longitudinal struts are installed (located in the same plane as the rafter pair), but also diagonal ones.

• Sill. Its purpose is to serve as a support for the rack and a place for attaching the strut.

• Lathing. Designed for movement during construction work and fixing roofing material. Installed perpendicular to the rafter legs.

Having a drawing and diagram indicating the location of all the listed structural elements will help in the work.

Selection of material for rafters

When calculating the material for a gable roof, you need to choose high-quality wood without damage or wormholes. The presence of knots for beams, mauerlat and rafters is not allowed.

For sheathing boards, there should be a minimum of knots, and they should not fall out. The wood must be durable and treated with the necessary preparations that will increase its properties.

Calculation of the rafter system of a gable roof

Calculation of material parameters important stage, so we present the calculation algorithm step by step.

Calculation of the rafter system It is important to know: the entire rafter system consists of many triangles, as the most rigid element. In turn, if the slopes have different shapes, i.e. are an irregular rectangle, then you need to divide it into separate components and calculate the load and amount of materials for each. After calculations, summarize the data.

1. Calculation of the load on the rafter system

The load on the rafters can be of three types:

• Constant loads. Their action will always be felt by the rafter system. Such loads include the weight of the roof, sheathing, insulation, films, additional roofing elements, and finishing materials for the attic floor. The weight of the roof is the sum of the weight of all its constituent elements; such a load is easier to take into account. On average, the constant load on the rafters is 40-45 kg/sq.m.

For reference: The weight of some roofing materials per 1 sq.m. presented in the table

• Variable loads. They act at different times and with different strengths. Such loads include: wind load and its strength, snow load, precipitation intensity.

In essence, the roof slope is like a sail and, if you take into account the wind load, the entire roof structure can be destroyed.

Wind load on the roof

The calculation is carried out according to the formula: wind load is equal to the regional indicator multiplied by correction factor. These indicators are contained in SNiP “Loads and Impacts” and are determined not only by the region, but also by the location of the house. For example, on a private house surrounded by multi-story buildings, there is less load. Standing separately Vacation home or the cottage experiences increased wind loads.

2. Calculation of snow load on the roof

The roof calculation for snow load is carried out according to the formula:

The total snow load is equal to the weight of the snow multiplied by the correction factor. The coefficient takes into account wind pressure and aerodynamic influence.

The weight of snow that falls on 1 square meter. roof area (according to SNiP 2.01.07-85) is in the range of 80-320 kg/sq.m.

Coefficients showing the dependence on the slope angle are shown in the photo.

Scheme for calculating the snow load on the roof

• Special loads. Accounting for such loads is carried out in places with high seismic activity, tornadoes, and storm winds. For our latitudes, it is enough to make a safety margin.

Assessment of the condition and load-bearing capacity of walls and foundations

It should be borne in mind that the roof has significant weight, which can cause damage to the rest of the building.

Determining the roof configuration:

• simple symmetrical;
• simple asymmetrical;
• broken line

The more complex the shape of the roof, the greater the number of trusses and rafter elements needed to create the necessary safety margin.

3. Calculation of the roof angle

The angle of inclination of a gable roof is determined primarily by the roofing material. After all, each of them puts forward their own demands.

It should be noted that increasing the angle increases the area of ​​space under the roof, but also the amount of material. What affects the total cost of work.

Calculation of roof slope angle

5. Calculation of rafter pitch

The pitch of the gable roof rafters for residential buildings can be from 60 to 100 cm. The choice depends on the roofing material and the weight of the roof structure. Then the number of rafter legs is calculated by dividing the length of the slope by the distance between the rafter pairs plus 1. The resulting number determines the number of legs per slope. For the second, the number must be multiplied by 2.

6. Calculation of the length of the roof rafters

The length of the rafters for the attic roof is calculated using the Pythagorean theorem.

Parameter "a"(roof height) is set independently. Its value determines the possibility of arranging a living space under the roof, the convenience of being in the attic, and the consumption of material for the construction of the roof.

Parameter "b" equal to half the width of the building.

Parameter "c" represents the hypotenuse of the triangle.

It is worth noting that the maximum length of the beam is 6 m.p. Therefore, if necessary, the timber for the rafters can be spliced ​​(extension, joining, joining).

The method of splicing rafters along the length is shown in the photo.

Methods for splicing rafters along the length

The width of the roof rafters depends on the distance between opposite load-bearing walls.

7. Calculation of the rafter cross-section

The cross-section of the rafters of a gable roof depends on several factors:

• loads, we have already written about it;

• type of material used. For example, a log can withstand one load, timber – another, laminated timber – a third;

• rafter leg lengths;

• the type of wood used in construction;

• distances between rafters (rafter pitch).

You can determine the cross-section of the beam for the rafters, knowing the distance between the rafters and the length of the rafters using the data below.

Rafter cross-section - table

Dimensions of lumber (timbers and boards) for a gable rafter system:

• thickness (section) of the Mauerlat – 10x10 or 15x15 cm;

• the thickness of the rafter leg and tie is 10x15 or 10x20 cm. Sometimes a beam of 5x15 or 5x20 cm is used;

• run and strut - 5x15 or 5x20. Depending on the width of the foot;

• stand – 10x10 or 10x15;

• bench – 5x10 or 5x15 (depending on the width of the rack);

• thickness (section) of the roof sheathing – 2x10, 2.5x15 (depending on the roofing material).

Types of gable roof rafter system

For the roof structure under consideration, there are 2 options: layered and hanging rafters.

Types of roof systems: with layered and hanging rafters

Let's consider each type in detail in order to make an informed choice.

Hanging rafters

They are used for roof widths of no more than 6 lm. Installation of hanging rafters is carried out by attaching the legs to the load-bearing wall and the ridge girder. The design of hanging rafters is special in that the rafter legs are under the influence of a bursting force. Hanging rafters with a tie installed between the legs reduce its impact. The tie in the rafter system can be wooden or metal. Often the ties are placed at the bottom, then they play the role of load-bearing beams. It is important to ensure reliable fastening tightening on the rafter leg. Because a bursting force is also transmitted to it.

The higher the tightening is located, the greater strength it should have.

If the tightening is not installed, the load-bearing walls may simply “move apart” from the pressure created by the rafter system.

Layered rafters

They are used for arranging roofs of any size. The design of layered rafters provides for the presence of a beam and a stand. The bench lying parallel to the Mauerlat takes on part of the load. Thus, the rafter legs are, as it were, inclined towards each other and supported by a stand. The rafter legs of the layered system work only in bending. And the ease of installation also tips the scales in their favor. The only drawback is the presence of a stand.

Combined

Due to the fact that modern roofs They are distinguished by a wide variety of shapes and complexity of configurations; a combined type of rafter system is used.

Combined view rafter system

After choosing the type of rafter system, you can accurately calculate the amount of materials. Write down the calculation results. At the same time, professionals recommend drawing up drawings for each roof element.

Installation of a gable roof rafter system

After the gable roof rafters have been calculated, installation can begin. We will divide the process into stages and give a description of each of them. It will turn out to be unique step-by-step instruction, containing additional information for each stage.

1. Attaching the Mauerlat to the wall

The beam is installed along the length of the wall on which the rafters will rest.

In log houses, the role of the mauerlat is played by the upper crown. In buildings built from porous material (aerated concrete, foam concrete) or brick, the Mauerlat is installed along the entire length of the load-bearing wall. In other cases, it can be installed between the rafter legs.

Splicing the Mauerlat with each other (direct lock with bolts) Since the length of the Mauerlat exceeds standard sizes lumber, it has to be spliced.

The connection of the Mauerlat to each other is done as shown in the figure.

How to connect the Mauerlat?

The beams are cut only at an angle of 90°. Connections are made using bolts. Nails, wire, and wooden dowels are not used.

How to attach the Mauerlat?

The Mauerlat is installed at the top of the wall. The installation technology provides several ways to attach the Mauerlat:

• strictly in the center of the load-bearing wall;
• with a shift to one side.

The Mauerlat cannot be placed closer than 5 cm to the outer edge of the wall.

To protect the timber for the mauerlat from damage, it is laid on a layer waterproofing material, which most often is ordinary roofing felt.

Reliability of Mauerlat fastening important aspect construction. This is due to the fact that the roof slope is like a sail. That is, it experiences strong wind load. Therefore, the Mauerlat must be firmly fixed to the wall.

Methods for attaching the Mauerlat to the wall and rafters

Fastening the Mauerlat with anchors Anchor bolts. Ideal for monolithic structures.

Fastening the Mauerlat with wooden dowels Wooden dowels. Used for log houses and beams. But, they are always used with additional fasteners.

Fastening the Mauerlat with brackets. Staples.

Fastening the Mauerlat to studs or fittings Stud or fittings. It is used if the cottage is built from porous materials (aerated concrete, foam concrete).

Fastening the Mauerlat with a sliding fastening Sliding fastening (hinged). Tying in this way allows for the displacement of the rafter legs when the house shrinks.

Fastening the Mauerlat with wire Annealed wire (knitting, steel). Used as an additional mount in most cases.

2. Manufacturing of trusses or pairs

Installation is carried out in two ways:

• installation of beams directly on the roof. It is not used often, since it is problematic to carry out all the work, measurements, and trimming at height. But it allows you to completely do the installation yourself;

• assembly on the ground. That is, individual elements (triangles or pairs) for the rafter system can be assembled below and then raised to the roof. The advantage of such a system is faster performance of high-altitude work. The disadvantage is that the weight of the assembled truss structure can be significant. To lift it you will need special equipment.

3. Installation of rafter legs

The assembled pairs rise to the top and are installed on the Mauerlat. To do this, you need to make a gash at the bottom of the rafter legs.

Methods of fastening the rafter leg are shown in the figure.

Methods for attaching a rafter leg

You need to start installing rafter pairs from opposite ends of the roof.

A twine is stretched between the rafter pairs. A twine is stretched between the fixed pairs. It will simplify the installation of subsequent rafter pairs. It will also indicate the level of the ridge.

If the rafter system is mounted directly on the roof of the house, then after installing the two outer rafter legs, the ridge support is installed. Next, the halves of the rafter pair are attached to it.

It is worth noting that the opinions of professionals differ on this issue. Some advise using a staggered fastening pattern, which will allow the increasing load to be distributed more evenly on the walls and foundation. This order involves installing one rafter in a checkerboard pattern. After part of the rafter legs is installed, the missing parts of the pair are mounted. Others insist that it is necessary to mount each pair in a sequential manner. Depending on the size of the structure and the configuration of the truss, the rafter legs are reinforced with supports and racks.

Fixation with rafter brackets Nuance. Connect additional elements structures using cutting. It is preferable to fix them with construction staples.

If necessary, you can lengthen the rafter leg.

Methods for splicing rafter legs are shown in the photo.

Methods for splicing rafter legs

4. Installing the ridge of a gable roof

The roof ridge unit is made by connecting the rafter legs at the top.

Roof ridge structure:

• Method without using a support beam (see figure).

Installing a roof ridge without using a support beam

• Method using rafter beams. Timber is needed for large roofs. In the future, it can become a support for the rack.

• Method of laying on timber.

Installing the roof ridge using the method of laying on timber Installing the roof ridge using the method of laying on timber

• More modern variety The method shown in the photo can be considered for making a ridge assembly.

Method for making a ridge knot

• Cutting method.

Installing a roof ridge using the cutting method

After the rafter system is installed, we perform major fastening of all structural elements.

5. Installation of roof sheathing

The sheathing is installed in any case, and is designed for more convenient movement along the roof during work, as well as for fastening roofing material.

The sheathing pitch depends on the type of roofing material, for example:

• for metal tiles - 350 mm (the distance between the two lower boards of the sheathing should be 300 mm).
• for corrugated sheets and slate – 440 mm.
• under soft roof We lay a continuous sheathing.

Conclusion

As you can see, despite its apparent simplicity, the installation of a gable roof rafter system contains many pitfalls. But, based on the recommendations given, you can easily build a reliable structure with your own hands.

Rafter system of a gable roof - calculation, installation, installation of rafters with your own hands

Gable roof truss system. Technology for constructing a rafter system for a gable roof. Calculation of loads and elements (rafters). Installation of the rafter system (installation of the Mauerlat, 21.02.2017 1 Comment

The rafter system of a gable roof is a simple design that can be installed with your own hands even by a novice developer. You just need to make preliminary calculations, familiarize yourself with the details and stages of roof construction, and calculate the materials needed for installation. When making calculations, it should be taken into account that the load-bearing capacity of a gable roof depends on the influence of loads from wind, snow, and the weight of materials on it.

To make the process of building a gable roof rafter system as easy as possible for you, below is detailed step-by-step instructions for installing a rafter system with your own hands.

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Requirements for building materials

For the installation of a rafter system the best option There will be the use of lumber from coniferous wood - pine, spruce or larch, grades I - III.

The material for the rafters is taken at least grade II, the mauerlat is made from boards or timber of grade II, material of grade II is taken for racks and purlins, the sheathing is made from lumber of grades II-III, it depends on the roof. Crossbars and tie-downs are made of Grade I material. Grade III material can be used on linings and linings.

Note! The lumber must be dry with a moisture content of no more than 20%. Before installation, it should be treated with fire retardants and antiseptics against fungal diseases.

Lumber should be stored under a canopy, providing protection from the sun and moisture. Level the storage area and cover the lumber with pads for ventilation.

For installation you will need fastening elements: ties, plates, studs, bolts with washers and nuts, self-tapping screws with EPDM gaskets, 2.8 mm thick, mounting tape, galvanized brackets.

Brackets are used when attaching the Mauerlat; they are secured with nails or self-tapping screws.

KR corners serve to attach the rafters to the mauerlat and prevent the rafters from moving.

All fastening material must be made of high quality material and be protected against corrosion.

Tools for constructing a rafter system

To install a gable roof rafter system, you will need the following set of tools:

• tape measures of different lengths 5, 10, 20 meters;
• markers, pencils;
• cord for tensioning;
• hammers, for various purposes, nail puller;
• scissors, for cutting;
• roofing knife;
• putty knife;
• scotch;
• hacksaws, electric saw, electric drill with various drills and attachments;
• screwdriver with attachments;
• markings, horizontal and vertical levels;
• slats, rulers;
• polyurethane foam;
• safety belt and rope - for safe work.

Keep all tools on the roof in a tool bag for safety reasons.

Types of rafter systems for a gable roof

Sent rafters

They rest on the Mauerlat and racks mounted on internal wall, with a step equal to the rafters. To provide rigidity for spans of 6 m, additional struts are installed.

Scheme of layered rafters of a gable roof

Hanging rafters

If the building is small in width, you can arrange a rafter system where the rafters rest on the mauerlat or walls, without intermediate supports. The maximum span is 9 meters. Such roofs can sometimes be installed without a Mauerlat. The rafters are installed on the wall using spacers; in this embodiment, a bending moment acts on the rafters.

To unload, wooden or metal plates are installed. They securely strengthen the corner. For hanging rafters of a larger span, a headstock and struts are installed. For hanging systems, the rafters are made with a larger cross-section, and lumber is chosen at least grade I II.

Scheme of hanging rafters of a gable roof

Calculation of the rafter system

You can determine the cross-section of a gable roof beam required in a rafter system by collecting all the loads acting on it: the weight of the covering, sheathing, snow, wind pressure, precipitation.

Constant loads can be determined by the weight of 1 m 2 of roofing and sheathing. It is important that the weight per 1 m 2 of roofing be in the range of 40-45 kg.

Variable loads from snow and wind are calculated using table values regulatory documents SNiP, depending on the height of the building and temperature zone. The load from snow is equal to its weight multiplied by a coefficient depending on the slope of the slope. All these calculations are performed during the project.

What if there is no project and the roof is being erected on a small building? You need to look at the construction of a house in the neighborhood, which is being carried out according to a design whose roof area is the same as your building. The gable roof rafter system will serve as a model.

Dimensions of timber for rafters

At the top point a ridge is laid that connects the rafters. The height of the ridge depends on the slope of the roof. The slope is affected by the choice of coating material. Minimum dimensions are:

• for tiled roofs, slate 22 gr.;
• for metal tiles - 14 g;
• ondulin - 6 g;
• corrugated sheeting - 12 gr.

The optimal angle is 35-45 degrees. tilt, ensures rapid discharge of water and snow. In regions with strong winds, the roofs are made flat and then the angle of inclination is within 20-45 degrees.

The height can be determined using the formula: H=1/2Lpr*tgA. Where A is the angle of inclination, L is the width of the building.

The task is simplified when using a ready-made table. The coefficient depends on the width of the building and the angle of inclination. Multiply the coefficient by 1⁄2 the width of the building.

The rafters are made from pine or spruce bars, with a section of 50x100 mm, 50x150 mm.

The size of the rafters depends on the pitch. The pitch of the rafters is smaller, a larger number is installed, and the cross-section will decrease. The distance between the rafters on a gable roof ranges from 600 mm to 1800 mm, it all depends on the design of the roof and the materials used for its construction.

Table of rafter sizes, depending on the step of their installation

Length rafters, mm	Distance between rafters, mm	Rafter beam cross-section size, mm
up to 3000	1200	80×100
up to 3000	1800	90×100
up to 4000	1000	80×160
up to 4000	1400	80×180
up to 4000	1800	90×180
up to 6000	1000	80×200
up to 6000	1400	100×200

The roof does not end at the level of the walls; it is extended outward by 500 mm. The rafter leg can protrude, or a board or block can be built up. In this case, moisture does not get on the wall and the foundation is not poured.

Step-by-step installation of a gable roof truss system

The rafter system of a gable roof consists of the following elements:

1. Mauerlat.
2. Lay down.
3. Racks.
4. Rafters.
5. Struts.
6. Puffs.
7. Lathing.

Mauerlat installation

Fastening the Mauerlat to a monolithic reinforced concrete belt

Mauerlat evenly distributes the load on the walls of the building; its installation can be done in several ways:

• attached to the wall through a reinforced concrete belt with studs;
• studs are inserted into the masonry;
• a simple and common method for simple roofs, fastening with wire rod.

For it, take timber with a cross section of 100×100 mm, 150×150 mm or 200×200 mm. Which section to choose depends on the size of the roof and its covering. The Mauerlat is joined along its length; to do this, make 100 mm cuts, 500 mm long, fold the bars and fasten them with pins.

In the corners, the mauerlat is tied with notches into the floor of the timber, fastened with staples or bolts. For wooden buildings, the Mauerlat is the last crown. On brick walls, make a monolithic reinforced concrete belt with a cross-section of 400×300 mm. Along the belt, place threaded pins 12 mm in diameter, every 120 mm, for fastening.

Drill holes with a diameter of 12 mm in the Mauerlat, lay them so that the pins go into the holes. Tighten the top with nuts. First, we lay two layers of roofing felt or roofing felt under the block. On the outside of the wall, lay the mauerlat with bricks. Lay the Mauerlat on a horizontally and vertically level base. You need to check with a level that the surface is horizontal. Check diagonals. If necessary, level with pads.

Installation instructions for beds, racks, rafters, struts and tie rods

The installation of a gable roof rafter system with your own hands is carried out in the following order:

1. Install the beam with the rafters in place.
2. Mark the installation step of the rafter legs.
3. Prepare according to the size of the rack.
4. Install them if there is a need to secure them with spacers.
5. Lay the purlin. Check geometry. Install fasteners.
6. Try on the first rafter leg and mark the cutting areas.
7. Mark the points and install the rafters at the beginning and end of the roof, stretch the cord between them in order to align the remaining elements along it.
8. Having installed the rafter leg, we first attach it to the mauerlat, then to the ridge purlin, to each other.
9. Screw each second leg to the mauerlat with wire.

The rafters are fastened to the mauerlat using notches, stop corners and a hemmed support bar. Secure with nails or staples.

Methods for attaching rafters to the Mauerlat

Install the support posts on the beds or pads and overlays. A log is a beam 50×100 mm or 50×150 mm, laid on the middle wall along a layer of roofing felt. Place brick pillars under the linings, 2 bricks high.

The rafter legs are connected to each other at the ridge. Let's consider the common connection nodes of the rafter system:

1. They make cuts at one leg and cut down at the other. Insert one leg into the cut of the other and fasten with a bolt.
2. Install overlays, wooden or metal.
3. Using notches in the purlin, they are secured with nails or bolts.

Methods for connecting rafters on a ridge

To ensure the roof's resistance to wind loads, tie-rods, struts and purlins are installed. The tightening is a 100×150 mm block, purlins and struts are made from a 50×150 mm or 100×150 mm block.

With the installation of contractions, the reliability of the rafter structure increases. The sections of the timber are the same as the rafters. They are attached to the legs with bolts or nails. The device of struts adds rigidity to the structure. They are installed tightly to the surface of the rafters

The lumber has a standard length of 6 m. The rafters can be longer. Then you need to dock them. There are several connection methods:

1. Fasten by placing bars on both sides at the junction, connecting them with nails in a checkerboard pattern.
2. Connect with an overlap, one part of the rafters to another, at a distance of 1 meter, fasten with nails in an alternating order.
3. Make a cut obliquely, cut out part of the rafter legs, connect them, strengthening them with bolts.

Sheathing device

Lathing is installed along the roof rafters. It serves to distribute the load from roofing material and snow onto the rafters. Plays the role of an air gap between the roof and the rafter system.

The design of the sheathing depends on the roofing material used:

• under soft tiles make the sheathing continuous, lay an anti-condensation film on the rafters, press it on top with a counter batten, nail the sheathing onto it, then OSB boards and underlayment carpet, lay tiles on top.
• Under the roof made of corrugated sheets, the sheathing should be sparse. The pitch of the sheathing depends on the brand of corrugated sheeting, its thickness and the angle of inclination of the roof.
• The lathing for standard slate should be made in increments of 500 mm from a bar of 75×75 mm or 50×50, as well as boards from 30×100 mm. The design features of the roof should be taken into account when making the final choice of the appropriate option.

The lumber from which the sheathing is made is first or second grade pine. It is advisable to take the width no more than 14 cm. With a wider width, the boards may warp and damage the roofing. The length of the nails should be three times the thickness of the sheathing. Lay the boards along the ridge. Install the first board of greater thickness to the height of the roofing.

Install continuous sheathing along the roof slope.

The first layer is to place a board along the ridge from it at a distance of 500-1000 mm to the next one and so on. Lay the second layer of sheathing along the rafters. Place the joint between the boards only on the rafters at intervals. Sink the nail, head and all, into the flesh of the wood.

Cornice overhangs

They are installed to protect from precipitation and play an aesthetic role. Eaves overhangs are arranged tightly without gaps. The final stage of installing the roof.

Diagram of the eaves overhang of a gable roof

Gable

The gable roof has two gables. They have the shape of a triangle, with the apex at the ridge and the sides coincide with the slopes of the roof. Gables support rafters and enclose attic space. They protect from wind and precipitation and provide stability to the roof.

In wooden buildings, the pediment is framed. IN brick buildings, frame or brick. Gables made of brick or gas block are erected before the roofing is installed. They require very precise execution.

Frame pediments fit into the finished opening when the rafter system is already assembled.

The frame is made of bars or boards. The frame elements are connected on tenons or in the wood floor, all fastened with nails. They are sheathed by nailing boards, lining or siding, maintaining the color scheme in the decoration of the building facade. To construct a window opening, an additional frame is made under it according to the size of the window. If the attic is insulated, then the gable also needs to be insulated. The insulation is placed in the middle of the frame. Mineral wool insulation with reduced flammability is used. From the outside, the frame is covered with a hydro-windproof film or windproof membrane, from the inside under finishing material nail a vapor-proof film or vapor-proof membrane.

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The roof not only gives the building a complete look, as in the photo, but also protects it from precipitation, cold and wind. If you are building a house on your own, you need to know how to install the rafters correctly to ensure a reliable roof. The roof structure is selected based on climatic features region. Where there is a lot of rainfall, it is recommended to build high roofs. If the region is characterized by frequent strong winds, it is better to give preference to flat roofs. Let's figure out how to install rafters on the roof.

Design features of various roofs

Before moving on to how to properly install rafters, you need to find out how they differ different types roofs

Roofs can be: single-pitched, double-pitched, spire-shaped, hipped, flat. Regardless of the design, they all consist of the same elements: ribs, pediment, ridge, dormer window, roof overhang and pediment, valley and hips.

The peculiarity of a pitched roof is that the basis for the slope are load-bearing walls of different heights. During the construction of residential buildings pitched roofs are practically not used - it is better to build them on various outbuildings, bathhouses, and country houses.

When constructing a residential building, they usually create gable roof- in this case, it also rests on load-bearing walls, but they have the same height. A space is formed between the slopes - a pediment (read also: " "). There is nothing complicated about how to install rafters on a roof of such a structure; this work can be done on our own, having learned from our advice.

Mansard and hip roofs are more complex, but hip roofs are generally impossible to handle on your own - you will have to resort to the help of specialists for the construction. Multi-gable roofs require the creation of a valley, which significantly complicates the work - they are recommended to be done on houses with a complex layout.

Roof structural elements

The main element of any roof is the rafters - also called. These wooden beams serve as load-bearing elements of the roof structure. Between the upper and lower chords of the rafters there are battens, their basis is struts and bevels.

The components of the roof also include:

• hydro- and thermal insulation;
• roofing base;
• roof.

The arrangement of elements such as sheathing and mauerlat depends on how to place the rafters on the roof. These parts are made exclusively from wood - boards, logs, beams. Depending on the type of material, the type of connection is also selected.

Fasteners include:

• racks;
• spacers;
• crossbars;
• struts.

The purpose of the fastening elements is to ensure the rigidity of the rafter system. The larger the span, the more fasteners will be needed.

Rafter truss nothing more than roof elements connected to each other by fasteners. The basis of such a farm is one or several triangles. Wooden beam laid along the outer edge of the walls, this is a Mauerlat, the purpose of which is to create support for load-bearing walls.

Types of rafters

The reliability of the supporting system depends on how to install the rafters on the house. There are two types of rafters: layered and hanging. For rafters you can only take wood High Quality, without wormholes, knots and cracks.

It is recommended to install layered rafters in a building where there are medium load-bearing walls. If the span is more than five meters, the rafters are placed on slopes. The layered rafters will rest against the mauerlat, for this reason the load on the walls increases several times, so they must be strong and massive to withstand it.

Layered rafter legs have two supports. One support rests on the mauerlat, and the second serves as a purlin running along the ridge. The purlin is laid on racks installed on the internal wall.

Hanging rafters are installed in houses without middle load-bearing walls; they rest only on the outer walls.

Before placing the rafters on the roof, they are connected using a special tightening. Sometimes it is also used as a floor beam. The simplest version of hanging rafters is a pair of elements connected at the ridge. To do this, the rafters are cut in half, and at the bottom they rest against a beam located horizontally. To prevent the rafters from bending, they are fastened with staples, having cut in the crossbar in advance.

When the span width exceeds seven meters, it is recommended to use a beam secured in a ridge and tie (read: " "). The beam is fastened to the rafters, struts and crossbar using a notch resembling a straight tooth. This design is suitable for spans in increments of ten meters. To align the rafters you will need a metal brush - a special fastener. It is driven into every fourth row of brickwork. A pair of loops extend from the ruff, with the help of which the beams are secured. Strong timber is placed along the entire length of the building. The ends of the rafters will rest on it, and the load on the walls will be distributed evenly.

A fire break must be made at the point where the chimney exits to the surface. The distance between structural elements should be no more than 130 centimeters. To make the roof overhang, special fillies are used. You can make them yourself by taking a board with a section of 5x10 centimeters. The length of the board should be half a meter longer than the overhang, since when connecting it to the rafter board it is necessary to make a joint. The fillies are nailed to the board in such a way that the rafter leg does not extend beyond the roof.

Hip roof design

Before correctly installing rafters on such a roof, you need to make additional slopes. They are formed with hip rafters - they should form a joint with the ridge of the gable roof (more details: ""). From the outside it looks like two separate parts. The first part is a gable roof, but its size is not enough to cover the entire house. As a result, open areas are formed - they are covered with two hips.

It is important to determine the distance through which the rafters will be placed, since the main load falls on the outer rafter beams - they must be strengthened. You also need to correctly correlate the dimensions of hip and gable roofs. If the proportions are disrupted even slightly, the entire appearance of the building will suffer. In general, this type of roof is quite complex, so it is better to entrust the work of creating it to specialists (read: "").

Mansard roof design

How to install rafters correctly, detailed video instructions: