Bathhouse with a pitched roof and veranda. Lathing under the roof roof. Construction of a pitched roof for a bathhouse complex

If the bathhouse occupies a small space and is an extension to residential building, a pitched roof for a bathhouse will be the best and budget option.

Advantages of a pitched roof.

During construction small bathhouse The roof area can be about 15 square meters. IN in this case a roof with one slope would be the right solution. It’s quite simple to make it even with your own hands, and besides, it will cost very little.

It is worth remembering that the larger the area of ​​the roof space, the more materials it will take, including additional beams and supports, and accordingly the financial costs and time spent will increase.

When installing the roof of a bathhouse, you should choose the correct slope angle. Its calculation must be made taking into account climatic features region, namely the amount of precipitation and wind activity.

For areas where precipitation occurs in winter period not abundant, a slope angle of 8° to 20° will be sufficient, and where snow falls frequently and in large quantities, it is worth making a slope of about 45°; this will allow the snow not to linger on the roof, thereby not weighing down the structure and preventing its collapse.

Features of the materials used.

Not only the angle of inclination of the slope, but also the type roofing material it's important. In this case, the material must meet the conditions. Eg:

  • corrugated sheeting is optimal for an angle from 8° to 9°;
  • metal tiles - for 25°;
  • roofing material is suitable for a roof slope of 5°.

The difference in wall heights is the basis for creating the slope of a pitched roof. After choosing the size, one of the walls should be made higher to the desired level.

Next you need to insulate the roof. The choice of type of thermal insulation directly depends on the subsequent use of the bath. If year-round use is planned, then it is recommended to arrange and insulate the attic space under the roof.

For a summer bath, it is enough to make the roof slightly higher than the ceiling. In this case, it is enough to insulate the roof slope. This option is cheap and simple, but such a bath is unsuitable in winter time.

We install the bathhouse roof frame.

If it is necessary to install an attic floor, beams should be prepared. Their cross-section and dimensions will depend on the area of ​​the bathhouse and the weight of the roofing material: the wider the bathhouse and the heavier the roofing material, the larger the cross-section of the beams should be. The pitch of the attic floor beams is, as a rule, 0.6-1.0 meters.

After the installation of the floors under the roof is completed, the installation of the rafter system begins. The rafter legs are located at a distance of 0.6 m to 1.2 m from each other. The choice of distance depends on the type and weight of the roofing material, as well as the expected amount of precipitation in the region during the winter, according to the principle of “more weight – less pitch”.

Sometimes the beams of the rafter system and attic floors under the roof are installed in one place, fastening them to each other with U-shaped brackets, reinforcing pins or wooden spikes driven into pre-prepared holes.

There are several designs of a pitched roof, depending on the width of the bathhouse. For example, with a width of 6 m, you should use a bench on which the rafter leg will rest, which additionally supports the roof.

In the case when the bathhouse is built from logs or beams, the upper crown serves as a support for the beams. To build a roof over the top stone or brick layer, a beam or mauerlat is laid, which will serve as a connection truss structure with building box. Before laying the Mauerlat, the walls are covered with a waterproofing layer.

To secure the beams, inside the upper crown or in the mauerlat it is necessary to make through holes, approximately half the height of the beam in depth, into which the edges of the beams will be inserted. Where the beams interlock with the crown or mauerlat, they should be wrapped with roofing felt.

However, the ends of the beams should be left free - roofing material can contribute to rotting in this case. In order to relieve the rafters and give the structure greater rigidity and insurance against collapse, such additional elements, such as spacers, ties and jumpers.

After you have finished installing the roof frame, you should begin installing the sheathing on which the roofing material will be attached. Here, too, there are rules, and the pitch of the lathing directly depends on the selected materials:

  • A continuous sheathing made of moisture-resistant plywood or OSB is suitable for soft pitched roofs, bitumen and ceramic tiles.
  • Sparse lathing is optimal for sheet roofing material; in this case, the pitch of the lathing depends on the width of the sheet. Usually, an unedged board with a thickness of 25-40mm is taken; if slate is used, a beam of 50x120mm is used (lathing pitch is 0.8-1.0 meters).
  • Heavy roofing materials and heavy rainfall will require the use of metal profiles in the sheathing.

It must be remembered that before covering a pitched roof, each roof element must be treated with special antiseptic compounds.

We install roofing material.

Laying roofing material on the roof should begin from the lower level of the roof. To ensure tightness, it is imperative to observe the optimal overlap for the material and use suitable fasteners. A waterproofing layer should be laid under the roofing material between the rafters.

Soft roofing materials in rolls are mounted on a continuous sheathing in at least 3 layers, and are glued together.

Installation of a soft-type pitched roof begins from the top point. First, a layer of glassine or roofing felt is glued onto a solid sheathing using mastic, and the sheets should overlap by 10-12 cm and secured with roofing felt nails.

Next, using the same mastic, the rolled roofing material is glued. All air bubbles should be carefully removed. At the lowest point, the material is inserted 15-20 cm beyond the edge of the roof and nailed to the bottom of the sheathing.

The installation of a pitched roof is, of course, one of the most important stages of construction, requiring care and increased attention.

BATH EQUIPMENT (SHRINKED)

WALL SET

Our clients are offered inexpensive basic equipment for shrink-fit construction, which allows the first initial stage put the log house of the bathhouse under the roof, and then begin to carry out finishing works. If necessary, the company’s specialists will calculate the cost of additional options.

The cost of this bath is calculated taking into account classic sawn timber 150 x 150 mm and profiled timber 145 x 145 mm. At the client's request, the bathhouse frame can be built from larger timber. For the construction of timber baths, in most cases, profiled timber 145 x 145 mm is used. Baths built with timber wall thicknesses from 195 mm (200 mm) are ideal for year-round use as country houses. country houses. Increasing the thickness of the walls made of timber will reduce the heat loss of the building, and will also give the external appearance of the bathhouse an elegant appearance. Each of the proposed types of timber has its own advantages. For example, beams processed mechanically using special equipment, they obtain a geometrically even shape from the outside and inside and have a smooth surface, which will significantly reduce the cost of finishing work in the future. IN modern construction Dry timber is increasingly being used chamber drying, the properties of which allow you to begin interior or exterior decoration immediately after assembling the log house.

For the manufacture of bathhouse sets from timber, environmentally friendly wood from the Kostroma region is used.

The wall kit price includes:

Design drawings and specifications of the bathhouse (AR, KR);
- production of timber for construction. Northern forest, Kostroma region;
- waterproofing the foundation with roofing felt;
- embedded (tying) row of timber 150 x 150 mm;
- treatment of the embedded crown with an antiseptic;
- external, main walls made of timber 150 x 150 mm (corrugated timber 145 x 140 mm);
- interior walls from timber 150 x 100 mm (profiled timber 145 x 90 mm);
- pediments chopped from timber 150 x 150 mm (profiled timber 145 x 140 mm);
- ceiling height - 2 m 20 cm (clean, after shrinkage);
- beam connection " warm corner";
- assembly of the log house on wooden dowels according to technology;
- inter-crown insulation - jute fabric;
- floor joists - made of timber 150 x 100 mm in increments of 0.6 m;
- ceiling beams - made of timber 150 x 100 mm with a pitch of 0.6 m;
- compensation jacks under the terrace, porch;
- delivery and unloading of the log bathhouse and components;
- installation of the house kit by an experienced team (Russians);
- quality control of materials and work.

ROOF

Basic package includes installation roofing system and covering the roof with temporary roofing (roofing felt).

Rafters made of edged boards 150 x 50 mm in increments of 0.6 m;
- installation of rafters is carried out on sliding supports;
- crossbar for stops made of edged boards 150 x 50 mm;
- roof sheathing from edged boards 150 x 20 mm;
- roofing material (roofing felt).

At the request of the client, we can perform roofing work using metal tiles, soft bitumen roofing or ondulin.

FOUNDATION

The foundation is not included in the base price!

When building baths from timber, they are used Various types foundations. The choice of foundation type may depend not only on financial costs, but also on the individual characteristics of the area. In some cases, it is necessary to conduct engineering geological surveys, during which the properties of the soil are studied and the location for construction is determined. Timely geology of the site also allows you to avoid mistakes at the initial stage during design and select the appropriate type of foundation for the structure.

Stages of construction of a bathhouse made of timber

Foundation installation

The foundation for a bathhouse should be selected based on the characteristics of the building site and the size of the log house. The choice of foundation for any structure should be approached thoroughly, and its installation should be entrusted to experienced specialists. Violations of the technology for constructing the base of the bathhouse can lead to additional financial costs. The most suitable for the construction of a timber bath are strip monolithic foundation, pile-screw and foundation on reinforced concrete piles. Our construction teams can build any type of foundation with high quality.

Assembling a log bathhouse

The assembly of a log bathhouse from timber (profiled timber) can be done at any time of the year. For the construction of baths, timber 150 x 150 mm or profiled timber 145 x 145 mm are often used. If necessary, our company can build a larger bathhouse from timber. Jute fabric is used as inter-crown insulation during the construction of baths. Our company also invites you to order a log bathhouse made from chamber-dried timber, which is currently increasingly used in private country construction.

Roofing

Currently, a variety of roofing materials are used in the construction of timber baths. The most popular are metal tiles, ondulin and soft tiles. The proposed basic configuration for the construction of a bathhouse includes a temporary roofing with roofing felt. If the customer wishes, the company’s specialists can produce installation work using the most modern roofing materials, immediately after assembling the bathhouse frame. The cost and timing of the work depend on the complexity of the design.

Shrinkage of a log bathhouse

Log house of a bath from ordinary or profiled timber natural humidity Before finishing work begins, it must settle and shrink. During the shrinkage process of a log house, the wood shrinks naturally. In addition, a slight decrease in the linear dimensions of structural elements may occur. The technological break after assembling the frame until finishing can be several months. Modern technologies wood processing allows you to make a bath set from chamber-drying timber.

Bathhouse finishing on a turnkey basis

The final stage of construction is the final finishing of the bathhouse on a turnkey basis. The cost of finishing work directly depends on the materials used. During the internal and exterior finishing The walls are sanded and painted. The finishing process also includes: installation and insulation of ceilings and floors; production of door casings and window openings, their installation and cashing. After installing windows and doors, hemming the roof overhangs and installing the drainage system, you can use the constructed timber bathhouse for its intended purpose.

OUR ADVANTAGES

Bath with pitched roof- a popular option for construction on our own. Such a structure can be built without extra financial costs. But in order for the bathhouse to retain heat well and be able to last for decades, it is important to carefully consider the choice of materials for construction and installation technology.

Bathhouse with one slope

Advantages of a pitched roof for a bathhouse

If there are no special requirements for the roof, in addition to reliability, durability and the ability to retain heat, a lean-to structure is best option. The advantages of bathhouses with a pitched roof include:

  • Easy to install. Even a person who has not previously been involved in this type of work can handle construction. It is enough to have at least basic skills in working with tools and some knowledge in the field of roofing. You can build a compact bathhouse with such a roof alone.
  • Small budget. The construction of a single-pitched roof will cost 1.5-2 times less than the installation of a gable roof for the building of one area. This is due to the fact that noticeably less high-quality lumber is required for the rafter system and materials for installing insulated roofing pie.
  • Durability and reliability. If the roof is designed and installed correctly, it can successfully withstand atmospheric loads for many years.
  • Practicality. A single-pitched roofing option is an ideal solution for a bathhouse attached to a house. A terrace or veranda of a bathhouse will also be successfully located under such a roof - there will be no need to install a complex rafter structure with unnecessary connections.

Bathhouse project with veranda

Main characteristics of a lean-to structure

The pitched roof has an extremely simple design. The slope is a quadrangular plane with a flat surface, located at an angle to the horizon due to the height difference between the supports.

To make a pitched roof for a bathhouse, the rafter system of the slope should be supported on structures located at different heights. This is done in several ways:

  • Walls are going up different heights. The Mauerlat is mounted directly on them, on which the rafters will rest.
  • The walls are erected at the same height. Mounted on one of the walls vertical racks with a cross member that serves as a support beam for the upper edge of the rafters. The lower end of the rafters is attached to the Mauerlat on the second wall. This design is cheaper, as it saves expensive wall material, but in this case the under-roof space requires enhanced insulation.
  • Combined option. It is used if the project provides for the arrangement of an open terrace instead of the corner part of a rectangular log house or on the side of it. In this case, part of the mauerlat (support beam) is taken outside the wall and rests on a stand of the appropriate height.
  • With additional support. If the terrace or veranda is located along a high wall, the rafters rest on the mauerlat on both walls, and additionally on a support beam mounted on racks. This will allow the protruding “canopy” over the terrace or veranda to withstand loads.

The principle of installation of the truss system of a pitched roof is determined at the design stage of the bathhouse.

Frame construction

Tilt angle

The slope of the slope depends on the climatic characteristics of the region, since the load from precipitation affects the requirements for the strength characteristics of the rafter system (the smaller the pitch of the rafters, the stiffer the structure, but at the same time its weight and the cost of lumber for installation increase).

The recommended slope angle for a pitched roof is 20-30 degrees for regions with light snow and rain load. For climates with snowy winters, optimal parameters slope - 30-45 degrees. In this case, water easily rolls off the roof, and accumulated snow comes off under its own weight.

Note! The smaller the roof slope, the higher the smoothness of the roofing material should be. This will prevent the accumulation of moisture in the places of fastenings and junctions. Stagnant moisture can cause damage to the roof and fasteners. This will significantly shorten the life of the roof.
Roof angles and roofing material

Since the angle of inclination depends on the difference in height of the supports, this should be taken into account when preparing the bathhouse design, especially if a decision is made to build walls of different heights. It is more difficult to adjust the wall structure than the height of the support posts.

Roof thermal insulation

For a bathhouse, the issue of thermal insulation of the roofing pie is pressing, since it is through the roof that the main part of the heat leaves the structure. To ensure that the steam room does not cool down for a long time, and that the relaxation room and dressing room are comfortable even in winter, it is necessary to think carefully about insulation.

There are two main options for how to insulate a bathhouse:

  1. In the bath for use only in summer period the roof can simultaneously serve as a ceiling. It is insulated, high-quality vapor barrier is installed, heat-reflecting foil material is installed and sheathed with clapboard.
  2. In a bathhouse designed for year-round use, a ceiling should be installed, insulated using sheet or roll materials, or thermally insulated using the backfill method.

If you use a bathhouse with an insulated roof-ceiling in winter, you will have to burn a large amount of firewood to compensate for the increased heat loss. As a heat insulator, it is advisable to use fire-resistant fibrous slab or roll material - mineral or stone wool. But high-quality vapor barrier should be provided, since moisture, accumulating in the heat insulator, degrades its thermal protection characteristics by half.

Floor insulation mineral wool

Floor insulation is simpler and cheap option, if you use backfill materials - slag, expanded clay, vermiculite. The advantages of backfill materials include affordable cost and extreme ease of installation. For a bathhouse, it is recommended to use a backfill made of non-combustible materials.

Design

You can prepare a project for a bathhouse with a pitched roof yourself. Building designs are easy to find on the Internet - the most convenient way is to choose the appropriate option and adapt it to the existing conditions. If you have no construction experience, it is advisable to pay attention to projects that are as simple as possible to implement.

At the design stage it is required:

  • determine the number, dimensions and purpose of the premises, their relative location;
  • calculate optimal height walls;
  • design the roof structure taking into account the angle of inclination and the selected roofing material;
  • select materials for installing the log house and roof;
  • decide on materials for external and internal finishing;
  • calculate the foundation based on the total load on the foundation.

Bathhouse layout

It is necessary to prepare drawings indicating all dimensions. It is important to carefully consider the installation of each unit of the rafter system on the bathhouse and choose the optimal technology.

If you are taking on the construction of a roof for the first time, when installing its frame, it is useful to have detailed explanatory drawings before your eyes correct fastening rafter legs.

Do-it-yourself pitched bathhouse roof

We select materials for installation of the structure. They must have sufficient strength so that the roof can withstand the design loads.

  1. Mauerlat. Horizontal supports for rafter legs, which are mounted on walls or racks, are best made from coniferous timber with a cross-section of at least 150x150 mm.
  2. Rafters. The ideal option is boards made of pine or dense wood with a cross-section of 50x150 mm - such dimensions make it possible to install insulation, the thickness of which is 150 mm. The length of the rafters is calculated taking into account the length of the overhangs beyond the supporting structures.
  3. Lathing. Transverse ties connecting the rafters to each other add rigidity to the frame and help distribute the load on building construction and foundation, serve as support for the roof deck. For sparse sheathing, slats with a thickness of 30-40 mm are suitable; for continuous sheathing (necessary for some roofing materials or if a minimum slope angle is selected) - moisture-resistant plywood, OSB boards, boards.
  4. Roof. We recommend lightweight flooring materials that can be installed even alone - bitumen slate (ondulin) or flexible tiles, corrugated sheets, metal tiles. Roofing felt is traditionally used as waterproofing.

Options for attaching rafters to the mauerlat The lumber must be dry, without deformations (bending, twisting), without wood defects in the form of fistulas and knots that affect the load-bearing capacity of the elements. After cutting the elements to size, they should be properly treated with a fire-bioprotective agent twice.

Installation work

When considering how to make a pitched roof, you should pay attention to the sequence of actions and work technology:

  • If the walls have the same height, the construction of the roof begins by installing racks on one of them and fastening the support beam at the calculated height. All connections are made by cutting into half a tree with additional fixation with metal staples or nails driven in at an angle.
  • A beam is laid on walls of different heights, which will serve as a mauerlat. This element is necessary for log baths, as well as if the walls are built from brick, foam block and other materials. Walls made of piece materials require the arrangement of a belt from monolithic concrete with embedded fastening pins and waterproofing of the Mauerlat using a double layer of roofing material. For walls made of timber, the function of the Mauerlat is performed by the upper crown.
  • Rafter legs. If the length of the boards is not sufficient to span the span, composite rafters made from spliced ​​boards are used. Special cutouts are made in the rafter leg to install it on the mauerlat. The first rafter, adjusted to the location, can be conveniently used as a template to make the required number of rafter legs on the ground according to the project. The elements are attached to the Mauerlat using nails, metal toothed plates, and additionally fixed with wire twists.
  • Placed on top of the rafter legs waterproofing material(in stripes, with an overlap of 100-120 mm) and is attached to the rafter legs with longitudinal counter-batten slats.
  • Perpendicular to the counter-sheathing, a lattice sheathing is installed with a step according to the design, or a continuous flooring is installed. The gap between the sheathing and the waterproofing allows for air circulation in the roofing pie, due to which the wood of the frame does not rot for a long time.
  • The roofing material is attached to the sheathing. The technology for installing the decking and the choice of fastening elements depends on the characteristics of the material. General principle– laying starting from the bottom of the slope. At the end, a ridge element and end strips are installed on the roof of the bathhouse.

Pediment cladding on the bathhouse

After the roof is installed, the roof is insulated, the gables are sheathed, and the drainage system is installed. Having completed the internal and exterior finishing Having installed the stove and furniture, you can put the bathhouse into operation. The simple design of a pitched roof allows you to implement your bathhouse project in a short time.

Bath with pitched roof-like do it yourself


Construction of a pitched roof for a bathhouse with your own hands. Advantages, main design characteristics for a bathhouse with a pitched roof.

How to make a pitched roof on a bathhouse - construction options

The traditional Russian bathhouse has now become not just a way to have a good time, but also an opportunity to join the cultural and spiritual life of the people. Even if there is only a small piece of free land on your site, there will certainly be a place for a bathhouse with a pitched roof and a veranda. It is exactly how to make a pitched roof on a bathhouse that will be discussed in this article with photos.

What are the benefits of pitched roofs for baths?

Some owners prefer to build an almost monumental structure because they have a large supply of resources, space and time. For such buildings, you can choose a variety of designs with gable or more complex roofs.

But for small sizes structures, the design of a pitched roof for a bathhouse is suitable, since it is the least expensive and the easiest to manufacture.

Among the advantages of pitched roofs are:

  1. Easy to install. Even a novice craftsman is able to make a pitched roof for a bathhouse with his own hands, without involving assistants or professional workers.
  2. Minimum costs for building materials. Compared to a gable roof, a roof of this shape with a similar area will cost 1.5 times less, since significantly less roofing materials and blanks for rafters will be required.
  3. Durability. With proper calculation of the angle of inclination, a pitched roof can withstand any weather conditions - snow, rain, strong wind, and the bathhouse will last much longer.
  4. Convenience. Another good thing about a pitched roof on a bathhouse is that it is convenient to install if you want to attach a bathhouse to a residential building. In this case, you will save on material, and such a design will take up less space. In addition, the annex bathhouse can be entered from the street, directly from the house, or through the terrace. A very convenient structure that can be equipped with a pitched roof would be a bathhouse with a carport.

Of course, there are projects that are very simple, flat roofs However, they are absolutely not suitable for building a bathhouse. Although they are much cheaper than all other designs, nevertheless, the peculiarity of the bathhouse is that air must circulate in it, therefore, there must be at least one slope.

Design Features

If we consider the actual structure of a pitched roof, then it is a single plane located at an angle, which is formed as a result of different heights of the supporting walls. Typically, the angle of inclination is 20-30°, as it allows precipitation to drain spontaneously from the roof without damaging or overloading it.

There are several ways to build a pitched roof on a bathhouse:

  • Construction of walls of various heights. Since the roof will rest on two opposite walls, they are made with different heights, thereby creating an angle of inclination. The mauerlat is laid directly on the upper edge of the walls and the roof rafters are secured.
  • Installing additional racks. In this case, the height of the supporting walls themselves will be the same, but to create a roof slope, special racks are attached to one of them. Although this approach will be somewhat more economical in terms of the amount of materials, such a roof must be properly insulated, and all cracks must be sealed so that heat does not escape from the steam room to the street.

When constructing a roof, experienced builders are always guided by the principle that the roofing material must be selected taking into account the angle of inclination. That is, the smaller it is, the less relief the roof covering should be. In any case, to prevent water or snow from accumulating on the roof in winter, as well as various debris, its inclination angle must be at least 10 degrees. Then the structure will last longer and the need to replace the roof will not arise soon.

What does a pitched roof consist of?

A frame bathhouse with a pitched roof will be more durable the more quality materials will be used for its construction. It is important to take into account the operating conditions of such a structure.

When considering designs for bathhouses with a pitched roof, you can choose the option with or without an attic. The need for additional insulation of the roof slope will depend on which option you choose. So, a roof without an attic will need to be insulated with any rolled fibrous material that does not transmit heat well. But if there is an attic, additional insulation is not necessary.

However, in any of the options, it is necessary to have a film for waterproofing, fire retardants and antiseptic impregnations, fasteners for roofing materials, as well as the tools necessary for the work.

Construction method

Step-by-step instructions with photos for erecting a pitched roof in a bathhouse, based on many years of experience professionals looks like this:

  1. At the initial stage, walls of various heights are erected, in accordance with the design of the bathhouse. For such a roof structure, shorter rafters will be required, so there is no need to compose them from several parts. This roof is quite durable.
  2. A waterproofing layer is laid on top of the walls and the Mauerlat is secured. This beam can be fixed with either anchors or metal pins, depending on the type of walls.
  3. Next, calculate the number of rafters based on the distance between them of 50-80 cm, and cut out a template. Grooves are cut out in each of the rafter legs, which are connected to the Mauerlat and secured with self-tapping screws, nails or overlays.
  4. Between the rafters, counter-batten slats are attached, which are covered with a layer waterproofing film, fixed with staples. This lathing creates a gap between the rafters and the film to prevent moisture or condensation from getting on the wood.
  5. A sheathing is attached to the waterproofing perpendicular to the rafters to distribute the weight of the roofing material over the entire roof plane. If the material is light, use slats, nailing them with a gap of 15-20 cm. But for heavy or incapable roofing materials, use a continuous sheathing made of moisture-resistant plywood.
  6. The last stage of work will be roof sheathing. Begin fastening the sheets of material from top to bottom, laying them with an overlap of 10-15 cm. Self-tapping screws with rubber caps are used as fastening elements to prevent moisture from getting into the holes. As an option, you can take rubber pads and ordinary self-tapping screws.

When all work on installing the roof, its insulation and sheathing is completed, you can begin installing ebbs, sewing up gables and moving on to final finishing baths inside. Read also: “How to make a roof on a bathhouse from the Mauerlat to the roof ridge.”

We hope that the information in this article will be useful to you, and that the sauna, built with your own hands, will delight you with warmth, comfort and a pleasant atmosphere.

How to make a pitched roof on a bathhouse: frame lean-to bathhouse with a veranda, how to build a structure, projects of bathhouses with a carport, photos and videos


How to make a pitched roof on a bathhouse: a frame pitched bathhouse with a veranda, how to build a structure, projects of bathhouses with a carport, photos and videos

Bathhouse with a pitched roof

For most baths ideal option The roof is a simple shed structure.

A pitched roof for a bathhouse is the simplest and cheapest option

If the roof area does not exceed 15 m2, then the installation of such a roof is simple and inexpensive. This is the most a budget option. As the roof area increases, the cost increases significantly due to the additional supports and beams that are used in this case.

Option for installing a larger pitched roof

When calculating the roof area, do not forget to add the length of the overhangs.

When calculating the roof area, do not forget about the overhangs

When building a bathhouse roof, it is important to choose the right slope angle. It depends on the region and the amount of precipitation characteristic of that area. If the zone is steppe and there is little precipitation, the roof slope may be small, about 8-20 °. For regions with significant precipitation this value is much higher: 30-45 °. In this case, the roof will be quite steep, which will facilitate the timely melting of snow.

The type of roofing material plays a fairly large role when choosing the angle of inclination:

  • When using corrugated sheeting, it can be from 8 to 20 degrees.
  • For metal tiles - at least 25 °.
  • When using roofing felt, the slope can be tilted minimally by only 5°.

The roof slope is created due to the difference in the height of the walls. Once its value has been selected, it is necessary to make one of the walls higher enough to provide the required angle.

An equally important role in the construction of the roof is played by the correctly selected type of thermal insulation. The thermal insulation of the roof depends on the intended use of the bathhouse. If you plan to steam all year round, you need to install an attic floor and then insulate it. If we are talking about a summer bath, then the roof will simultaneously serve as a ceiling. In this case, only the slope is insulated. This option is the cheapest, but using such a bathhouse in the cold season is difficult due to the rapid loss of heat: you have to spend a lot of firewood to maintain the temperature.

Installation of the bathhouse roof frame

If an attic floor is needed, beams are prepared for it. Their dimensions and cross-section depend on the width of the bathhouse and on the type (mainly weight) of the selected roofing material: the wider the size of the bathhouse and the heavier the roofing material, the larger the cross-section of the beams should be used. The pitch with which the attic floor beams are placed is usually 0.6-1.0 meters. But from the experience of bathhouse builders, it follows that the optimal distance is equal to the width of the insulation: there is no waste and no need to waste time on adjustment and compaction.

After completing the installation of the attic floor, they begin to manufacture the rafter system. The rafters are spaced from each other at a distance of 0.6 m to 1.2 m. The choice of this value depends on the type (weight) of the roofing material and the amount of precipitation falling in your region. The more precipitation and the heavier the roofing material, the smaller the pitch. If you decide to cover the bathhouse with slate or ceramic tiles, then choose the smallest distance between the rafters, since asbestos-cement and clay tile sheets are quite heavy materials.

Construction of a pitched roof for a bathhouse

In some cases, the beams of the attic floor and the beams of the rafter system are placed in the same place, fastened together with special U-shaped staples (if there are no ready-made staples, they can be made from reinforcement rods with a thickness of at least 8 mm). Sometimes reinforcement pins or wooden spikes are used as a fastening element, which are driven into the drilled holes.

Shed roof designs may vary. In other options, the following method of arranging roof elements is used (see pictures below).

Shed roofs for bathhouses

If the bathhouse is made of timber or logs, the upper crown can serve as a support for the beams. For structures made of stone, a beam or log-mauerlat is laid on top of the top layer of brick/stone, which serves to connect the truss structure and the frame of the building. Before laying the Mauerlat, the walls are covered with a layer of waterproofing.

To secure the beams, special through holes are cut out in the upper crown or mauerlat, into which the ends of the beams are then inserted. The depth of the hole is approximately half the height of the log/beam. In the place where the beams come into contact with the crown/mauerlat, they are wrapped with roofing felt (the ends of the beams cannot be wrapped, as this promotes rotting). To unload the rafters, give the structure greater rigidity and for safety, in addition to the rafters themselves, additional elements are used: spacers, lintels, ties.

How to secure the beams of the rafter system

After completing the installation of the roof frame, it is necessary to install sheathing to secure the roofing material. The sheathing pitch depends on the type of roofing material:

  • For rolled roofing, soft bitumen or ceramic tiles, a continuous sheathing is required, which is most often made from sheet materials (OSB, moisture-resistant plywood, etc.).
  • Under sheet roofing materials, sparse lathing is used. Its step depends on the size of the sheets. Usually, for such sheathing, an unedged board with a thickness of 25-40 mm is used, and only for wave slate they take a beam of 50 * 120 mm (0.8-1.0 meter step).
  • When using heavy roofing materials or large quantities precipitation, some sheathing elements can be replaced with metal profiles, maintaining a certain step.

Important! Do not forget to treat all elements of the roofing system with antiseptic compounds (sheathing too).

Installation of roofing material

Roofing material must be laid from the lowest point of the roof. To ensure tightness, be sure to maintain the required overlap and use appropriate fasteners. It is also necessary to lay a layer of waterproofing material under the roofing material.

Roll roofing materials are mounted on a continuous sheathing in at least 3 layers (they need to be glued together).

Installation soft roof starts from the bottom point. First, a layer of glassine or roofing felt is glued onto a solid sheathing using heated mastic so that the sheets overlap by at least 10-12 cm (they are nailed with special nails for roofing felt). The next step is to glue the rolled roofing material using the same mastic. Carefully remove all air bubbles. At the lowest point, the material is inserted 15-20 cm beyond the edge of the roof and nailed to the bottom of the sheathing.

The roof structure is certainly very important stage construction. Everything must be done carefully and carefully, observing all the necessary allowances and overlaps.

Projects of bathhouses with a pitched roof

A shed roof can be installed on any project. Another thing is that this is not always justified: sometimes it is necessary to make a large difference in heights to ensure the required angle of inclination. And quite often, erecting one of the walls to such a height costs more than gable roof. So in each case you need to assume that it will be more profitable for you.

Project of a 6*4 bathhouse with an attached terrace

This layout has many small-sized rooms. The bathhouse itself occupies an area of ​​24 sq.m., under the same roof and on the same foundation there is a terrace.

The total occupied area on the plan is 10*4=40 sq. m.

Bathhouse layout 10*4 with a terrace under a pitched roof

If you are planning a sauna - with high temperatures and without brooms, this layout can be left. If the bathhouse is Russian, then the size of the steam room is definitely small: there must be at least one “lying” shelf, and its minimum dimensions 2.2 * 0.8 m, which already occupies 1.76 square meters. m. Moreover, the shelves do not increase in length in the proposed layout. For a Russian bathhouse, they proceed from different standards: the steam room is larger, and the washing room is smaller. Below is another option. In it, the terrace remained unchanged, but the layout of the remaining rooms changed: the bathroom disappeared, there is a fenced-off vestibule, which is mandatory for winter use, the partition between the recreation room and the functional rooms was shifted.

Bathhouse layout 10*4 for Russian steam room

Numerous other options are possible. Until you have laid the foundation, you can change and move the walls in a way that seems more correct to you (on paper). Having come to some option that will suit you in all respects, you can begin marking the foundation. When planning, do not forget to take into account the thickness of the walls and insulation: they “eat up” a lot of space (this is especially true for the steam room).

Bathhouse project 5*5

Project of a bathhouse with a pitched roof and a small terrace

If the bathhouse will be visited in winter, with this arrangement of rooms (see photo below), you will have to think through the heating system for the rest room: it remains unheated. If you make the washing room smaller (it usually contains a shower and a bench, so large areas are not needed) and shorten the veranda, then the stove can be heated from the rest room. In this case, the washing room warms up due to the heat coming from the steam room or due to the heat from the water tank. It will be very warm in the washing room if the water is heated by a separate wood-burning titanium: it will heat both the room and the water.

Bathroom layout

Project of a small 3*4 bathhouse under a pitched roof

Project of a small bathhouse under a pitched roof

Bathhouse layout 3*4

Plan the walls based on what kind of bath you want. If it is a dry-air bath, then the steam room (top left) may be small; if it is a Russian bath, proceed from the size of the shelf(s) and the location of the stove. In principle, you need to start from the stove, and from there plan both the walls and the rafter system (so that the rafters do not pass over the pipe).

Design of a 5*9 bathhouse with a pitched roof and a 3*9 carport

Project of a bathhouse with a pitched roof and a carport

The roof is pitched both over the bathhouse and over the packing area. The roof over the parking lot starts at the same level as the low wall.

Layout of a bathhouse with a pitched roof and a carport

In this project, a rather large space is allocated for a bathhouse, but the problem of parking a car is solved. If you have a garage for your car, the carport can easily be converted into a terrace - open or closed - according to your choice. Read about the features of terrace construction here.

When planning a bathhouse, you will definitely need to decide how many and what kind of windows are needed in the steam room.

Do-it-yourself bathhouse with a pitched roof photo


In many cases, it is much easier to make one slope for the roof of a bathhouse than to make a two-slope structure. It is necessary to consider all aspects of this roof.

The final structure of a sauna building is the roof, which is very important to design correctly. The roof of the bathhouse performs a protective function during precipitation and strong winds.

At self-construction baths from large selection The lean-to roof design is the simplest. In addition, it performs excellent thermal insulation functions.

When erecting a pitched roof in a bathhouse with your own hands, it is very important to avoid mistakes and errors. We will consider all the significant points when choosing a shed roof structure, and we will also try, using the video in this article, to explain in as much detail as possible how to properly lay such a roof.

Advantages of a pitched roof

The single-pitch roof structure has a number of advantages:

  • This type of roof does not need a supporting system; it is supported by the foundation of the building;
  • Minimum material consumption;
  • Easy installation of the roof structure;
  • Reasonable price for construction;
  • Sufficient resistance to prolonged rains and winds;
  • Possibility of carrying out repair work;
  • Durability.

The construction of a lean-to structure is much faster than the construction of other types of roofs. The flat surface of the roof can withstand loads and serve as an additional floor of the building in the open air, where you can spend your free time without risk to life and health.

Slope calculation

Before calculating the slope of the structure, it is necessary to decide on the materials.

The construction of a pitched roof can be made from the following material:

  • Slate;
  • Roof tiles;
  • Metal profile;
  • Metal tiles;
  • Ondulina;
  • Ruberoid.

The calculation depends on the ability of the roofing material to withstand precipitation. For example, water and snow do not linger on tiles or slates as much as on metal profiles. The ability of the surface to quickly get rid of precipitation will determine the level of safety of the structure, since a thick layer of snow can damage the roof.

Note!
Using roll material The roof inclination angle ranges from 5º to 10º.
For a slate roof, a slope of 20º is sufficient, and for a tile roof, an angle of 25º-35º is recommended.

Also, when calculating the slope, you should take into account the terrain on which the bathhouse will be built.

If a bathhouse with a pitched roof is planned in a windy area, it is permissible to make the angle of inclination a little less. If construction takes place in a poorly ventilated area, the roof slope should have a greater slope.

Selecting materials and tools

To carry out all work you will need the following materials and tools:

  • Wooden beams;
  • Slate nails;
  • Rough boards;
  • Slate;
  • Nails;
  • Hydrobarrier.

So, a pitched roof for a bathhouse requires the presence of the following tools when building it with your own hands:

  • Hammer;
  • Axe;
  • Sharp knife;
  • Construction stapler with staples;
  • Hacksaw.

The construction of a pitched roof requires the presence wooden beams. To do this, you will need 12-gauge timber, it is recommended to make the rafters from 10-gauge timber, and for the sheathing you will need 50x50 mm slats.

After the structure has been designed, the material and tools have been prepared, the installation of the pitched roof can begin.

Shed roof design

It is worth noting that shed roofs for bathhouses are considered the simplest in design, which rests on the base of the bathhouse, with a slope angle depending on the difference in height of the walls. A pitched roof can be either with attic space, and without it. If the plans do not include an attic, then the roofing surface and the bath ceiling can be connected.

The roof of a bathhouse building with an attic is not only aesthetically pleasing appearance, but also excellent thermal insulation qualities, which is especially important in the winter season.

Constructing the upper part of a bathhouse without an attic significantly saves building materials, but using such a bathhouse in winter will cost a pretty penny due to low thermal insulation.

If you decide to cover the bathhouse in the old fashioned way with turf, which has fairly good thermal insulation qualities, then this step-by-step instruction This will help you:

  • Initially, lay a waterproofing layer on the ceiling in the form of an ordinary polyethylene film;
  • Then turf is laid on the waterproofing layer;
  • The first layer is placed with the roots facing up;
  • The next one is placed with the roots down, which gives the roof an unusual effect.

Advice!
For turf, the slope should be 10-15 degrees.

The single-pitch design is the easiest to install.

As you know, the structure of a sauna roof consists of a load-bearing part and a top. In this case, the load-bearing component of the roof includes rafters, floors, purlins, and the roof consists of sheathing, hydro-, heat- and vapor barrier layers and coating.

Note!
The rafter frame of the bathhouse roof can be constructed on the ground.

Preparatory work

The installation of a rafter system requires preparatory work:

  • ends rafter leg 2800x100x40 mm in size should initially be cut at an oblique angle. Prepare edged boards for the base measuring 4400x100x50 mm.
  • It is also necessary to take care of the presence of a crossbar board, which is used as a stiffener.

Installation of truss structure

After rafter system was assembled on the ground, it must be installed on the ceiling of the bathhouse. Before starting the installation of the truss structure, it is necessary to build a sheathing that will support the roofing material.

When using roofing materials such as roofing felt and ondulin, the sheathing must be continuous, made of boards more than 20 mm thick. The strength of the structure depends on the length of the boards, but when installing them, it is recommended to monitor the joints; they should not coincide, but vary, so the frame will be more reliable.

Laying beams

Beams are installed along the perimeter, namely along top harness walls, it is necessary to maintain the level of fastening of the support beams. Control of supports is carried out using a building level. If the beams protrude beyond the walls, an additional support column must be installed.

Laying the truss structure on supports

The rafter structure is installed on support beams at a distance of one meter from each other. We secure the rafters with metal brackets.

Note!
When using rolled material, the covering flooring is laid with an overlap of 5-10 cm wide.

Laying roofing material

One of the last stages of installing a pitched roof is laying the roofing material. After assembling the rafter structure, installing the frame on the ceiling and installing the sheathing, we proceed to directly laying the material on the roof. Using special nails with a head, we attach slate or tiles to the sheathing.

All wooden elements are processed special means from fungus, insects and fire. A vapor barrier layer must be installed between the sheathing and the insulation, which will protect the insulation from unnecessary moisture; a special membrane film is perfect for this purpose. (see also article)

Finally

A Russian bathhouse and a pitched roof today, this combination can be found quite often in country houses and suburban areas. Surely you have already realized that if you want to build a bathhouse, the simplest and most economical option would be to choose a structure with a pitched roof.

Installing a roof is a fairly important stage in the construction of a bathhouse, which requires special attention and accuracy. Self-construction Roofs can be built even by an inexperienced builder; the main thing is compliance with all the rules and nuances in construction. Good luck!

Frame bath with a pitched roof - another step-by-step educational technology for building a bathhouse. Photo project for DIY construction. This project is a cross between a small bathhouse for a summer residence, with the only caveat that this is a budget version of a bathhouse that is not inferior in functionality to a normal full-fledged bathhouse, except perhaps without a pool.

Frame bathhouse with a pitched roof - foundation

For such a bathhouse with a pitched roof, absolutely any foundation is suitable, be it pile, or. Therefore, we will not dwell on this topic. Let it be a shallow tape. After constructing the foundation, we lay the beds as shown in the photo. We will use a 150×25 mm board.

Professional builders will now be stunned. The next step will be making the overlap. We will make the ceiling from 50×50 mm timber. I found this technology for constructing floors on the Internet, after thinking about it, I realized that this technology has a right to life, but since I have not tried it, there is nothing more to say. Therefore, I am sharing it with you, so to speak, at my own peril and risk, but I can say that I will definitely try it. I liked it because the speed of construction of such a ceiling breaks all records. Well, for the rest, I can say that you can get by with a regular ceiling by making it yourself. And so, we lay the timber on the bed, leaving 5 centimeters on each side of the bed.

From above, across, we lay another row of bars. I would like to add that you can lay osb or 20 boards on the beds, thereby closing the underground space. And you can insulate each layer of timber with mineral wool, thereby creating a fairly warm floor.

We lay the third layer of timber. Although I think maybe two will be enough for a bath. But as they say, the cake should be made of three layers, so we will not deviate from technology.

We lay 50×150 mm along the upper perimeter. board and firmly fasten everything together.

Then we lay the floor. It is better to lay the floor for a bathhouse from boards, but in principle you can also use osb with a thickness of 12 mm. in two layers, laying it in a checkerboard pattern.

Frame bath - walls

Let's start construction frame walls with your own hands. For ease of perception, I will assemble the walls standing up; in life, it is better to assemble the baths on the finished floor, and then, with the help of a friend, install them in place.

Assembling the front wall of the bathhouse. We will assemble it from a 50×150 mm board. or 50×100 mm. I will use 50x100 mm. I think this should be quite enough for such a bath. The height of the front wall will be 250 cm. We will cut the racks at 260-270 cm and nail a board to the bottom of the racks. We'll nail a board to the side on top of the racks, then you'll understand why.

We assemble the back wall using the same principle. Its height will be 220 cm. We will cut the racks to 240-250 cm.

Assembling the side wall. Using the upper side board we set the slope we need. In this case, we will have 30 cm between the front and back walls.

After we have aligned everything, we simply take and cut off the excess on the racks.

As a result, we get this design. We assemble the last side wall according to the previous one, as if using a pattern.

Then we screw the top boards onto the walls. remove the side ones. We install the walls in place, check the evenness of the structure with a building level, and then fasten them together thoroughly, not forgetting to screw the walls to the floor. The next step we will do jib. There are no photos with the jibs, I forgot. I think I'm sorry. The jibs will add substantial rigidity to this structure, so we will not neglect them. The jibs are installed with the edge of the board from the top of the corner to the bottom of the middle of the building.