An exceptionally fast and simplest method of creating a roof is to make it based on synthetic rubber, also called polyvinyl chloride. PVC roofing called membrane, it is characterized by a long service life, low weight, a high degree of environmental friendliness, and has a number of other advantages.

Types of membranes

There are three types of membranes that are used as roofing materials:

1. EPDM– made of special rubber, having good physical properties. Among them: temperature range -50 - +150 degrees Celsius, resistant to ozone, weather conditions, aging.
2. TPO– has a stable chemical composition, increased resistance to impact chemical substances and microorganisms.
3. PVC- This is a well-known polyvinyl chloride. Until recently PVC membranes s were the most common of all the above.

Features, technology, installation process

To start installing a membrane roof with your own hands, you need to decide on the type of connection of the panels. This can be done by hot air welding or gluing using special double-sided adhesive tapes.

Methods for connecting seams:

• Gluing- the method is not the most reliable due to the low strength of adhesive joints. It is mainly used for EPDM membranes, although it must be said that this method is simpler. Hot air welding produces a connection that is as strong as the base material, but requires special tools.
• Welding can be automatic (using welding machines) and manual (using a hot air gun). If you are installing a membrane roof with your own hands, then it makes no sense to buy expensive welding machines. A hot air gun or an industrial hair dryer, which has low performance, but its price is an order of magnitude lower, will be sufficient.

To properly weld the roofing material you need to select optimal parameters. Their changes are influenced by ambient temperature, humidity, and wind speed. The optimal temperature is 15 - 20 degrees Celsius and normal humidity air. The hot air temperature should be around 500°C, the pressure is applied by a rolling roller, which must be purchased separately. If you are doing this for the first time, it is better to first practice on small panels specially designated for this purpose. The result should be a complete seam without peeling or burns.

The easiest way to attach the coating to the base is ballast. It is used when the slope of the slopes is less than 10°. To prevent the canvas from being blown away by the wind, it is covered with a layer of ballast, the minimum weight of which should be 50 kg / m² of membrane. River pebbles, rounded gravel and crushed stone are usually used as ballast. The disadvantage of this method of fastening is the large weight of the structure.

If the roof is not designed for heavy weight, then use mechanical method fastenings Fastening along the perimeter of the roof is done using special edge strips. The remaining area is secured with plastic mushrooms on metal anchors. Mechanical fastening is more reliable and lighter.

The membrane covering can also be glued to the base. This method is not widely used due to its high cost. Mostly used on complex roofs.

The advantages of membrane roofing are: long term operation (50 years), excellent waterproofing properties, immunity to frequent changes in weather conditions. Disadvantages include the high cost of materials.

It can be concluded that it is advisable to use a membrane roof. Despite the relatively expensive materials, ease of construction and durability make this coating quite attractive for use.

The windproof membrane is quite new material in the construction market. Its demand began to grow with the peak of construction popularity frame houses. But besides this, such a membrane material is very important not only when insulating the walls of a house, but also when arranging the roof, where it has become an integral layer of the “pie”. This stage is construction work ah should be provided for at the design stage or at the very beginning of the repair. This article will discuss how to choose a windproof membrane for your home and install it correctly.

The importance of a hydro and windproof membrane for the home

• Regardless of what material the house is built from, when insulating it, it is imperative to provide a windproof layer. Its task is to protect the thermal insulation material from the effects of strong air currents, partially absorbing air pressure. But, at the same time, without in any way reducing the vapor-permeable characteristics of the material with which the facades of the house are lined. Therefore, we can conclude that it is the windproof membrane that guarantees the preservation of all the important characteristics of the insulation, allowing you to extend its service life.

• But we must not forget that from the inside of the house you need to make a vapor barrier membrane film that will protect the insulation from water vapor. When wet, it immediately deteriorates its properties and high heat loss begins.

Tip: a windproof single-layer or double-layer membrane is used only on the outside on top of the insulation, and a vapor barrier membrane is used on the inside of the house, as a finishing layer before installing drywall.

• The importance of using windproof membranes is due to several factors. First of all, this is infiltration, that is, when warm air from the house passes out through very small cracks in the structure of the wall material. This occurs especially often in wooden houses, when the wood dries out. The second reason is the ventilation of the walls. Even dense materials such as brick or foam block have sufficient porosity to allow air to pass through. The presence of a windproof film helps to cope with these shortcomings, and, without affecting the vapor barrier qualities, stabilize the microclimate in the room.

• In addition, the use of wind protection will protect the insulation from excessive humidity due to the condensation that forms, which often causes mold to form.

Today there is a very wide variety of windproof membranes on sale, both foreign and domestic. They all vary greatly in price and features. According to their technical characteristics, windproof membranes for the home can be divided into:

• vapor-permeable film, promotes the penetration of excess steam from the room, while simultaneously protecting the insulation from rain and cold winds;
• vapor barrier film, fastened from the side of the living room. Its function is only to remove steam; it cannot be mounted outside;
• multifunctional membrane, its name speaks for itself. Despite its apparent convenience, it is used much less frequently.

Benefits of using a windproof membrane

• Environmental friendliness of the material. It is absolutely harmless to both humans and the environment.
• Fire resistance. It is achieved thanks to the special additives that it contains. They allow you to suppress combustion.
• Ease of use, is easy to install at any time of the year and does not require personal protective equipment.

• High specifications . Thus, it is resistant to ultraviolet radiation, moisture resistant, elastic, resistant to mechanical damage and strong temperature changes.
• Duration of operation. Does not lose its properties for many decades.

Depending on what goals they want to achieve, windproof film is attached to the walls of houses, roofs or ceilings of attic floors.

A variety of windproof materials for the home

• Not so long ago, it was not possible to find special windproof membranes on sale, but there was a need for additional material. Therefore, there are several alternative materials that are acceptable for use, although not recommended today. Although their cost is lower, their characteristics are significantly inferior to new high-tech materials.
• Perhaps the cheapest of all possible materials glassine is used to protect the walls from wind. But despite him low price, appearance it is so unattractive that most often it is made as a temporary solution with further dismantling.
• Until now, in private construction small houses Ordinary polyethylene film is used as wind protection. But, due to very low vapor permeability properties, excess moisture can accumulate in the thermal insulation material, leading to dire consequences. Vapor permeability is important not only for the insulation itself, but also for the structure of the walls, especially when it comes to a wooden house.

Manufacturers of vapor-permeable windproof membranes

"Ondulin"

This brand occupies one of the leading positions in the windproof membrane market. He has been known for more than 25 years, during which he has proven high quality your products. The hydro-windproof film is sold under the name “Ondutis” and, depending on the purpose and properties, is available in several names:

• S.A. 115 - the insulating material is a vapor-permeable membrane that is capable of retaining moisture and gusts of wind, while not rotting and has high resistance to tearing and the effects of ultraviolet radiation. It is used to protect insulated structures, walls or roofs from the formation of condensation, atmospheric moisture and strong winds;
• A 120- also suitable for use on wall and roof structures. Distinctive feature serves as a higher resistance to solar radiation. Typically sold in rolls 1.5 m wide and 50 m long.
• A 100- essentially an analogue of the previous one, but cheaper. This is due to less strength and limitations temperature regime operation.

"Izospan"

This is an excellent combination of price and quality, so you can buy it at any hardware store. The isospan windproof membrane is quite versatile and suitable for use in insulated roofs covered with any roofing material: metal, natural tiles or bitumen tiles.

In addition to the most famous and popular models, there are products with increased fire-resistant qualities on sale. Special fire retardants in the fabric itself help achieve this; this can protect the structure from fire, both during construction work and during operation. Although its price is higher, in some cases fire requirements allow the use of only such a membrane.

Wind protection isospan was constantly improved, which made it possible to achieve a number of advantages over other analogues:

• compactness and light weight. This is the presence of rolls small size, which are easy to transport even on public transport;
• convenient sizes. They allow even one person to install the material, but will not create an unnecessarily large number of joints;
• high strength characteristics. They make it possible to work even in unfavorable weather conditions, while the risk of tearing the material is minimized;
• low price. Considering the high consumption of film, this is an important component when choosing;
• elasticity, resistance to UV rays, temperature changes, etc.

Depending on the specific construction goals, you can also choose the most appropriate option from the line presented by the manufacturer:

• Izospan A- This windproof is designed for outdoor use. Attached to the wall of the house under a ventilated facade or under roof covering. Its purpose is to protect structural elements and insulation from wind and water. Improved Izospan A with fire retardant properties is also sold;

• Izospan AM is a two-layer membrane material with high vapor-permeable properties. It will perfectly protect the insulation from condensation, atmospheric humidity and weathering. This is achieved thanks to the special structure of the fabric, the creation of which became possible only by using modern technologies. This guarantees high water-resistant characteristics during long-term use in the most extreme weather conditions;
• IzospanAS- although it is the most expensive in its line, since it is a three-layer material, but thanks to the installation method it can reduce costs. So, it can be mounted directly on top of the insulation, without lathing for the ventilation gap.

Windproof membranes "rockwool"

These are vapor-permeable, wind- and moisture-proof materials that are available in different brands. The choice depends on the specific conditions and goals to be achieved. They are all sold in standard rolls of 70 m2.

• Rockwoolroof. This is a two-layer membrane that meets all basic requirements. Successfully removes condensation from the roof and protects the insulation from the wind. When using it, be sure to make a ventilation gap of up to 5 cm. The width of the roll is 1.6 m, so it must be placed on the roof horizontal stripes with a gap of at least 15 cm. The top strip of material is laid with a distance of 5-10 cm from the ridge.

• Rockwoolpartitions. It is chosen if the facades of the house were insulated from the outside. It serves as a protective layer between the thermal insulation material and external cladding siding or any other material. It is attached directly on top of the insulation, pressing it with slats, to which the decorative wall cladding is subsequently attached.
• Rockwoolpartitions with fire retardant additives. It completely retains all the functions and purpose of the previous type, but it contains special flame retardant additives that help protect the structure from fire for some time.

Types of construction membrane films

All membrane materials for house construction can be divided into several main categories. So, depending on the structure of the material and its purpose, there are vapor-permeable and vapor barrier films.

Vapor barrier membrane

• It is always installed only from the inside of the house, protecting the cotton insulation from the accumulation of moisture in it from condensation. For example, when arranging mansard roof, the insulation from below is covered with just such a film. It can look different: in the form of a smooth paper film of high elasticity and strength with a glossy side, or in the form of an aluminum film with a foil side.

Tip: the presence of a vapor barrier on the wall and roof structures of the house creates a “thermos” effect. This is good for saving energy when heating, but it also greatly increases the humidity in the room. Therefore, supply and exhaust ventilation systems must be installed in them.

• To protect metal roofing materials, such as metal tiles or corrugated sheets, special membrane materials are produced. These films have an anti-condensation coating that protects the metal from corrosion. The principle of its operation lies in the structure of the coating on one of the sides - it is rough to the touch, since it is an adsorbent layer that absorbs condensate rising from the room. A ventilation gap of 2-5 cm is left between such a membrane and the insulation.

Vapor-permeable windproof membranes for walls and roofs

• They are used outside buildings on top of insulation under cladding or roofing material. In addition to the fact that it successfully protects soft insulation from damage by the wind, it also provides an additional waterproofing layer. Since windproof membranes are a kind of buffer between thermal insulation and the external environment, it is important that they allow all possible moisture from the room to pass into the ventilation gap. This is possible due to the presence of very small perforations, which are invisible to the naked eye. It follows from this that the higher throughput windproof vapor membrane, the more efficiently it will work. According to this principle, it is divided into: diffusion, superdiffusion and pseudodiffusion.
• Pseudo-diffusion materials in most cases are used in roof construction. This is due to their good waterproofing properties and successful operation with a properly organized ventilation gap. But it is not recommended to lay such a windproof membrane on facades due to its low vapor permeability characteristics. Its pores are so small that they can easily become clogged with dust during strong air currents and stop working.
• The best windproof membranes for the walls of the house are diffusion and superdiffusion. Their vapor-permeable properties are so good that you don’t have to worry about clogging. Thanks to a large number the pores are quite large, manufacturers guarantee correct work such materials even without installing lathing on top of them for ventilation.

• It is worth mentioning separately about this type of windproof films, such as volumetric diffusion membranes. This great option for roofing work. They are quite dense mats up to 3 m in length and about 8 mm in thickness. Such volumetric polypropylene slabs are an independent layer that separates the insulation and roof covering without additional ventilation. This guarantees high-quality removal of condensate formed under the roof, extending its service life. To fasten it, ordinary nails are used, but the base for it can only be a solid covering, for example, made of plywood.

Installation of a windproof membrane. FAQ

• Which side to attach the windproof membrane to?? If the house is insulated mineral wool, then it is attached from the outside directly on top of the insulation. The same applies when working on an insulated roof. If the roof is not insulated, then instead of a wind barrier, a vapor barrier is attached to the bottom of the rafters. When the walls of the house are insulated only from the inside, then a vapor barrier film is installed only on the side of the room.
• Which side is the right way to lay the membrane?? As a rule, all membrane fabrics have a front side, which is quite difficult to distinguish and requires a long look. But you can’t make a mistake, since how it works will depend on the location. Thus, the roofing anti-condensation windbreak is attached with the absorbent side to the inside of the room. Today, well-known manufacturers of diffusion materials have begun to mark one of the sides and indicate in the instructions on the rolls exactly how it should be positioned.

• Is a ventilation gap necessary? In most cases it is needed. For example, when installing a vapor barrier on the side of the living room, a gap of 2-3 cm must be left between it and the drywall. But windproof diffusion materials can be attached without additional ventilation between the insulation, but it is necessary to do so between the finishing cladding of the building. The slatted frame is mounted vertically so as not to obstruct air flow. The roofing anti-condensation film must have a 5 cm section of ventilation on both sides.
• How much overlap should you make? windproof membrane? The most well-known manufacturers make a marking tape on their products that indicates optimal size overlap. For walls, in most cases, it varies from 10 to 20 cm. But when installing a roof, this indicator depends on the degree of roof slope; the lower the slope, the greater the overlap should be left. In the area of ​​the junction with the ridge, the wind protection should have an overlap of at least 20 cm, and at the valleys up to 30 cm. Often, in these places it is recommended to mount an additional layer in the form of a strip with an overlap of 40-50 cm on both slopes.
• Is it necessary to glue the joints of the windproof membrane? This required condition, which is prescribed by all manufacturers. This is the only way to achieve absolute tightness of the joint. Any self-adhesive tapes are suitable for these purposes, but it is best to use reinforced construction tape. Although its price is much higher than regular paper, it guarantees excellent performance for many decades. It can also be used to repair a break. But first, put a gasket inside in the form of a piece of wind protection, and then glue everything.

• How to attach a windproof membrane for your home? For tension and temporary fixation, a construction stapler is used. But this is only a temporary measure; slats must be firmly screwed on top, which will serve as a lathing for further cladding work. But with further arrangement of curtain facades, the work will be more labor-intensive. First, brackets for hanging panels are attached to the wall, after which slabs of heat-insulating material are mounted on dowel-nails with mushroom caps. After this, a windproof membrane is stretched over the top and, applied to the wall, slots are made for each bracket. And right away, right through thermal insulation material, attached to the wall using similar mushroom nails. Their number must be at least 5 pcs/m2. If it is not difficult to nail a counter-lattice around the perimeter of the windows, then at the joints with pipes, antennas, and ventilation ducts, the edges are glued with double-sided tape or special rubber adhesive.

• How long can the windproof membrane be left open? Although manufacturers claim that their materials are resistant to ultraviolet rays, this period is limited. So, after 5-6 months the material begins to “age” and lose its properties. Therefore, it is recommended to cover the windbreak with cladding as soon as possible after its installation. And also, if the windbreak is exposed to prolonged rain, it gets wet and begins to leak water to the insulation and to the very structural elements of the house. Therefore, it is more convenient to do each wall separately, installing all layers of cladding at once, rather than the entire house in stages.

One of the latest innovations on the market of modern roofing materials is membrane roofing. The technology of its installation allows for the installation of the roof covering without seams, which gives the roof the best waterproofing characteristics. The market offers various membranes that differ in composition and installation methods.

Among this variety, it is possible to choose an option for any type. Let's look at what a membrane roof is and get acquainted with the technology of its installation on various surfaces.

In this article

Types of membrane roofing

The production of membrane coating is based on polymers and artificial rubbers, which give this type of roofing its elasticity. There are three types of this material.

Based on polyvinyl chloride

PVC membranes are based on polyvinyl chloride, which is the basis of many insulating roofing materials. Elasticity of such a coating is given by a volatile plasticizer, and flexibility is provided by a reinforcing mesh made of polyesters. Such characteristics make it possible to use PVC membranes on roofs of complex structures.

The method of laying this membrane eliminates the presence of seams, which greatly increases its resistance to leaks. In addition, these membranes are available in various colors, including light ones, which allows the roof to reflect the sun's rays and not heat up in hot weather. Installed using heat welding.

This type of membrane roofing, despite its advantages, has an acceptable cost, which makes it a popular material for roofing.

EPDM membrane based on artificial rubber with reinforcement

EPDM membrane based on artificial rubber with reinforcement using a polymer mesh. To improve the strength characteristics, ether additives are added to it. The waterproofing properties of the EPDM membrane are high due to its high adhesion to bituminous surfaces. Mounted using adhesive method.

The disadvantage of the roof is its high cost, which pays off with a long service life - more than half a century.

The TPO membrane is a new product in the domestic roofing market. The material is produced on the basis different types rubber, to which various stabilizing additives are added to increase strength, elasticity and fire resistance. This thermoplastic material is based on different kinds polyvinyl chloride, not rubber. Installed by heat welding.

Scope of application

Membrane roofing is usually mounted on. The convenience of this type of roofing materials is the fact that they can be laid on the old roofing without dismantling it, which significantly saves time and money on improving the roof or repairing it.

When using membranes on flat roofs you can create an exploitable surface on which you can place various objects, including those with high traffic. This is convenient when creating a roof over an underground garage or parking lot, or when arranging a cafe on the roof of an office or shopping center.

Membrane roofing is actively used in the areas of multi-storey and industrial construction, while their use in the sector of private houses is only gaining momentum.

An important advantage of using membrane materials is the absence of additional waterproofing in the roofing pie.

Key points when choosing and working with membrane coatings

There is an opinion that membrane roofing materials are only suitable for flat concrete roofs. Let’s refute this opinion: membranes can be mounted on any surface and are especially convenient for repairing old roofing structures.

Calculation of the use of membrane roofing should be based on the following rules:

• It is necessary to take into account the load on rafter system or the walls of a building. If they are reliable, then there is the possibility of ballasting the membrane. If there is no confidence in the strength of the house, then it is better to choose a welding or adhesive method of fixing membranes;
• When calculating the amount of material required to cover the roof, it is necessary to take into account overlaps of 5 cm, as well as the need to install a membrane on all types of junctions.

The main advantage of a membrane roof - the absence of seams - can be destroyed overnight by incorrect installation technology. Take the time to check the tightness of the seams: after they have cooled, run a screwdriver along the seam and make sure there are no holes.

Installation

The technology of membrane roofing depends on the type of coating chosen and the base for the roof. Let's look at the basic installation methods.

Glue method

This method is used to install the EPDM membrane. For this, special double-sided adhesive tapes are used to seal the joints of the membrane material. This installation technology is convenient in private construction, as it does not require the use of specialized equipment. Gluing the canvases is done quickly enough and does not require special preparation.

However, this method does not provide a durable sealed coating. At the joints, the adhesive tape begins to come off over time and allow moisture to pass under the roof.

Heat sealing method

Welding membrane joints is done using heated air. PVC and TPO membranes are laid using this method. A welding machine is used that supplies a stream of air at a temperature of 600°. A construction hair dryer with the ability to heat the air to at least 550° can be used.

The membrane sheets are laid overlapping each other, the edges are heated with a burner and glued together. After the material has cooled, a single web is formed with tightly sealed seams. After using the burner, the seams are completely sealed and have the same elasticity as the rest of the fabric.

Laying rules

Technology PVC laying membranes contains a number of rules:

• Before sealing the seams, it is important to clean the surface of the membrane from any contaminants, including grease and chemicals;
• The canvases are laid freely, without tension. The amount of overlap between two adjacent canvases must be at least 5 cm;
• It is important to carry out the welding quickly enough, without staying in one place for a long time and without underestimating the recommended temperature values. With a very thick seam, there is a high probability of the fabric tearing in the area near the seam;
• When too high temperature welding machine the membrane will burn and not stick together;
• The optimal seam width is at least 2 cm. If it is smaller, it is necessary to install a round membrane patch on top of the seam.

Using construction hair dryer It is necessary to follow the nozzle, which heats the joint of the sheets, with a roller. When using a welding machine, this is not required, since the machine independently rolls the surface to be welded.

Ballast method

Unlike welding, the method of fastening the membrane with ballast does not require the use of special equipment, which makes it acceptable for do-it-yourself installation. The ballast method is possible on flat roofs and roofs with a slope of up to 15°.

This technology requires the presence of strong load-bearing structures, since fixing the PVC membrane with ballast is associated with a lot of weight.

Installation is as follows:

• Roll out membrane rolls on the base;
• Fastening the material around the perimeter and at junctions with adhesive tape;
• Loading on top of the ballast membrane: not less than 50 kg per 1 sq. m.

For ballast, crushed stone, pebbles, concrete blocks or paving slabs. It is important to consider that if the ballast has sharp corners that can damage the surface of the membrane, then it is necessary to first cover the roofing with non-woven material.

Ballast fastening of PVC membranes is convenient due to the possibility of arrangement.

Installation of membrane covering on corrugated sheets

The option of laying a membrane on roofs made of corrugated sheets is quite common, thanks to which the roof made of corrugated sheets is insulated and soundproofed.

Installation in in this case follows this algorithm:

• A vapor barrier is laid on the corrugated sheets with overlapping sheets;
• Insulation boards are laid in two layers on top of the vapor barrier. It is important to ensure that the top layer overlaps the joints of the bottom layer;
• The insulation is attached to the base using self-tapping screws;
• A membrane covering is laid on the insulation, the seams of which are sealed with special equipment;
• At the junctions, membrane overlays are made.

We will show you step by step the process of replacing a faulty accumulator membrane. When our accumulator failed, the space between the membrane and the housing filled with water. The purpose of the lower flange is to hold the rubber membrane in the accumulator housing. When we unscrewed the flange, water flowed out of the housing.

Removing a faulty membrane

First, we carefully unscrew the bolts from the flange, remove the flange and wait for the water to drain.

Slightly loosening the edges of the membrane, remove the remaining water.

In this model of a hydraulic accumulator with a volume of 150 liters, membrane fastening is also provided in the upper part.

This is a male threaded fitting. Carefully unscrew the nut from it and pull out the faulty membrane along with the threaded fitting through the hole in the lower part of the housing.

After removing the membrane, there is nothing left in the housing, so at this stage it is recommended to thoroughly clean the inside of the housing.

The membrane is shaped like a pear. Please note that the new membrane must completely match the original. Don't buy cheap options with a different specification, it will end up being more expensive. Take an old membrane to the store as a sample or copy its specification from the plate on the accumulator body.

Helpful advice: it is advisable to wash the new membrane in a non-aggressive cleaning solution before use. We insert a threaded fitting into the membrane to secure it from above and slowly screw it into the hole in the membrane.

Installing a new membrane into the housing

We insert the new membrane into the accumulator housing through the lower hole in the housing.

We push the membrane to its protrusions at the bottom.

Now our task is to straighten the membrane inside the housing and get the threaded fitting into the hole in its upper part. For a larger model, you can use special devices or tie a rope to the fitting in advance and pull it through the hole.

Screw the nut onto the threaded fitting.

There is a recess for a hexagon inside the fitting. Use an adjustable wrench to slightly tighten the nut. If you do not plan to install control automation, a pressure gauge or an air release valve on the hydraulic accumulator, then the upper hole in the flange can be plugged with a metal cap of a suitable diameter. You can use fum tape or flax as a seal.

We wind 5-6 turns of fum tape and install the cap.

First we tighten it by hand, then tighten it with an adjustable wrench.

We install the lower pressure flange on the body. This flange secures the membrane to the body, pressing its edges. Install and tighten the bolts on the flange according to the same rules as for tightening the wheels of a car. Depending on the number of bolts, you can use a “criss-cross” or “star” pattern. We must try to install and tighten the bolts from opposite sides - this way we will achieve uniform pressure on the flange and membrane. When all the bolts are installed, tighten them one by one with a socket wrench.

Connecting the hydraulic accumulator to the water supply system

We connect the hydraulic accumulator using a gasket and a union nut to the water supply system. There's a fair amount of hand effort involved here.

Before starting the accumulator, additional air pressure must be created. To do this, unscrew the plastic cap from the nipple and connect the pump.

Using the pressure gauge, we monitor the increase in pressure in the tank. Typically, the accumulator plate indicates the amount of preliminary air pressure. In our case it is 1.5 bar.

If the value is not specified, set the pressure to 1.5 - 2 bar. After this, you can open the tap and supply water to the accumulator.

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There are many ways to install vertical waterproofing of a foundation. Among them, the most popular are paint and roll, but their membrane counterpart, in which the protection of the base is provided by a special polymer film, is used more and more every year. It has an important advantage - unlike its competitors, membrane waterproofing completely seals the foundation from groundwater. It is also insensitive to corrosion and chemicals. By the way, if you are interested in the construction of foundations, we advise you to visit the section.

Today, experts identify three types membrane waterproofing foundations are light, medium and heavy. The last two types are expensive, complex and are used in situations where it is necessary to provide protection from strong hydrostatic pressure on the base of the building. In private housing construction, it is quite enough to install the film yourself simple way. Do-it-yourself waterproofing of the foundation with a film (membrane) of exactly this type will be discussed in detail in the article.

Preparing the foundation and walls for waterproofing equipment.

Very important advantage membrane waterproofing means there is no need to carefully level vertical surfaces. The reason for this is that polymer films are not fixed directly to the concrete base. Instead, they hang freely along a vertical surface, forming a kind of “skirt”. This provides additional strength to the waterproofing - in the event of even slight deformation of the foundation, the membrane will remain intact. There are exceptions only if there is a need to use two-layer film insulation.

Fastening membrane waterproofing.

The technology is quite simple and generally similar to the installation of classic roll insulation. The film is supplied fully finished in rolls. All that remains is to unfold it along the vertical surfaces, fix it at the top, and cut off the excess from the bottom. It is necessary that the film protrudes above ground level by at least 30 centimeters. You need to lay it from top to bottom, that is, unfold the roll not longitudinally to the wall, but perpendicularly. The membrane is attached depending on its model. The most common and simplest option is to install special small-sized PVC rondels on the wall with a pitch of no more than one and a half meters. The membrane is attached to them using spot welding under the influence of hot air. The film is also reliably welded to metal parts.

Just as in the case of roll waterproofing, the film pieces should be overlapped - one piece should overlap the other. Most film models have self-adhesive strips along the edges just for this purpose. If they are not there, you can use tape, special construction adhesive, or use a stream of hot air to weld the sheets to each other.

As for the length of one piece of film, as mentioned above, it should not be clearly standardized. It is enough to make sure that the waterproofing extends below the edge of the foundation cushion by 20-30 centimeters. Subsequently, when filling the sinuses, the soil will reliably fix them, and the membrane will tightly close concrete base. However, when adding soil, it is very important to carefully ensure that sharp stones do not damage the waterproofing, stretch or bend it. The section of membrane protruding above the ground must also be covered. There are many ways to do this. The most practical and popular is to use thin cement screed(about 1 centimeter thick) or decorative panels. In both cases, this will not have a negative impact on the waterproofing qualities.

If you want to give your film waterproofing greater strength (this is necessary, for example, in places where hydrostatic pressure groundwater exceeds 200 kN/m2), then you can make it two-layer. In this case, the inner layer will be a flat membrane, and the outer layer will be a perforated film. It is much thicker, stronger, and is attached using the same technology as described above. However, in this case it is necessary to carefully level the vertical walls of the foundation