If you have chosen a gable roof for your wooden house, then you will need a log or timber as the main material for its manufacture. The entire process of constructing this structure can be divided into several stages and types. In this article we will tell you what types of rafter systems for log houses there are, as well as what roof schemes exist.

Nailless (male) roof

A nailless roof is a structure in which planks are laid on horizontally installed logs. The ends of the logs need to be cut into the transverse logs that form the pediment.

IN in this case the load-bearing structure is the end walls, the “male” walls, the place where the wall of the log house narrows. Logs, which are called slegs, are fastened in it using the notching method, and a roof is laid on them.

Logs from the longitudinal walls are hidden inside the house; about three of them are needed to work. For the upper part, as a rule, a large ridge log is used.

To make the roof structure more durable, you need to install a rafter leg. It is a triangular structure, and is installed in the middle part of the roof.

There is a more economical arrangement of the roof: the end walls are covered with hewn boards, and rafters are used to cover the roof. Males do not do this in such a situation; a sheathing of thin logs is installed over them.

Types of rafter systems

For the construction of a pitched roof, you can use hanging rafters and layered ones.

This design the easiest to assemble and its manufacture requires little material. Due to the fact that the layered rafters are supported by the emphasis on the outer part of the walls, they exert pressure on the walls of the building. The pressure on the roof causes a bursting effect on the walls, causing them to move apart.

Layered rafter systems are used when roof spans do not exceed 6 meters. If the span is more than 6 m, another support is installed. If the building has a central bearing wall, this will be an additional advantage.

Hanging rafter systems

If roof spans are more than seven meters and additional supports are not provided, hanging rafters are used. This design does not put a load on the walls, the expansion effect is not noticeable. The tie, which is installed in the middle part of the rafter legs, strengthens the rafter.

Roof structure on males

The main supporting system in this type of roof is the end walls. Shallow recesses are made in the gables, and logs (slegs) are installed in them. Therefore, the male roof, in some way, is a continuation of the wall, the logs of which become increasingly shorter towards the top.

The structure of such a roof can be assembled on the ground. You need to start the process with a base removed from the walls onto temporary linings. They cut down the log house not to its full height, but in parts, re-arranging the crowns. The advantage of this technique is that the structure can be adjusted on the ground.

The end wall is formed from male logs, which are fastened together with dowels. This makes it possible to preserve the stability of the pediment. And using dowels, you can achieve additional thermal insulation. Since this design does not have horizontal expansion, it is not entirely reliable.

In order to increase strength, you can connect the poles with male logs:

• using the “paw-to-foot” cutting method in a place where the logs around the corner are not marked;
• “in the paw with a cut”;
• using the cutting method “at the root”.

If the work is done incorrectly and poorly, the house will be leaky. Therefore, if you do not have the relevant experience or knowledge, trust a specialist.

At what angle should the roof slopes be?

This issue can be solved with the help of a plumb line nailed to the board and a cord that is attached in the middle of the board.

Raise the board so that the plumb line points to the center of the pediment. If you plan to build a roof with different slopes, then the board needs to be moved to the corner, and the ends of the cord stretched towards the corners.

The board needs to be attached to the wall, the cords should be fixed in the corners. After this, you can already visualize the angles of the slopes. A similar procedure must be carried out with the second part of the pediment. Use a water level and focus on the horizon mounted on the boards.

Once the edge of the slopes has been marked, continue installing the gable logs.

Cutting a ridge log can be done in two ways: in the first, we cover the pediment with a log, and in the second, we cover the ridge with a male log.

If you choose the first option, then the gaps that form at the top of the gable can be closed with short male logs.

For the second option, experts advise using sheathing made of thick and massive logs. This way you can level and raise the roof a little. The most relevant use of sheathing for roofs made of planks.

When erecting a roof, do not forget that its projection beyond the gables should not exceed 50 cm. In a situation where the projection is greater than this distance, you can strengthen the structure using logs with a large cross-section.

Also, for strengthening, you can cut in 2 or 3 ridge ledges and create a step-shaped protrusion in this way. In this case, the presence of lower logs is not necessary; they can be replaced with short logs.

The sheathing should lie flat. Since logs that have been cut cannot be hewn, when cutting, do not forget to measure their end using a level. In order to check the flatness of the laying, you can run a flat board along the roof. If you find depressions or unevenness, replace them with sawings; eliminate hunchbacks.

Roof structure with hanging rafters

The roof with hanging rafters is a triangular frame, the beams of which run through the entire structure.

The pressure that acts on the system is distributed over the entire area of ​​the frame: vertical pressure on the rafters has a bursting effect, and the legs, which are embedded in the beams, transfer the pressure to the beam, this reduces the stress of the entire structure.

The design of a roof with hanging rafters has a drawback - the beams bend. Since in such a situation there is no support point for the bottom of the leg, experts suggest using a rafter system with a “headstock”. In this system, it is possible to use material with a smaller cross-section.

Methods for joining wooden parts

For connection and docking building material use different techniques. Depending on the type of structure, bolts, dowels, dowels, nails, glue, and staples are used.

Not only the reliability of the units, but also the stability of the entire structure depends on the dimensions of the plane at the junction of the elements.

As the contact area between parts increases, the friction force increases. To complicate the nodal connection, instead of straight cuts on the beams, make dovetail or claw locks. In such cuts, a force arises that prevents the separation of wood elements.

The connection of large units can be done independently, using an ax or saw. And it is better to entrust the connection of small, complex joints to professional carpenters.

Installation of rafters on a log house

Log roof rafter system: nailless (male) roof, layered rafters, hanging rafter systems.

Gable roof for a log house: analysis of construction options + technological details

Constructing a roof over a log building is not an easy job, requiring the craftsman to have the skills of a skilled carpenter and knowledge of materials science. The performer will need to first practice making connections. He must take into account the traditional shrinkage of walls made of wood. In order for a gable roof on a log house to be built flawlessly, you need information about the methods of its construction, including ancient roofing technologies. The information we offer will be useful to both independent craftsmen and customers of construction crews for meaningful control.

"Tricks" of wooden housing construction

Popularity chopped baths, cottages, residential buildings is justified by an amazing atmosphere that returns to folk origins. Buildings made from natural wood are distinguished by excellent thermal technology and an attractive price. A significant advantage is the ability to spontaneously allow excess evaporation to pass through. One cannot help but pay tribute to the solid environmental advantages.

However, the popular natural building material has an impressive list of disadvantages. In addition to flammability and sensitivity to waterlogging, carpenters-builders and future owners must be concerned about:

• Dimensional instability of wooden structures. Linear movements occurring due to fluctuations in humidity and temperature will accompany the structure until completion of operation. In the first years, the elements of the wooden system move more actively; over time, the “agility” decreases, but does not disappear.
• Mandatory shrinkage, taking into account which it is not customary to equip log houses for at least a year, is better than two to three years after the assembly of the crowns. After installation, wood sags on average by 10-20%, which must be taken into account when designing a house. Walls made of laminated veneer lumber will sag the least, but its use will not completely eliminate the change in the height of the box.
• The difference is in the vector direction of shrinkage. An intensive change in size occurs across the log, i.e. perpendicular to the fibers. Along the fibers, the size of the scaffolding changes insignificantly: shrinkage along the length of the trunk should not even be taken into account.

Without taking into account the above circumstances, the wooden roof will definitely “move away”. Gaps will appear between the foot of the house and the roofing system, allowing raindrops and melt water to pass through. The wood will then begin to rot, resulting in complete destruction not only the upper enclosing structure, but also the house as a whole.

Taking into account the specifics of the material is not enough for the competent construction of a wood roof. You need to familiarize yourself with all possible ways construction in order to choose an option that is rational in terms of cost and effort. You need to understand what forces will act on walls made of logs or timber, and what method can be used to extinguish their effect.

Types of angled roofs for log houses

Roofs with two slopes are ideally combined with chopped feet. Two steep slopes create the impression of a fairy-tale hut. The most suitable tilt angle is 45º-60º, but variations in both directions have every right to exist.

A rival in the field of arranging log houses for a gable structure can be a sloping roof, which has a similar or pentagonal cross-sectional configuration. Gable roofs over log houses can be insulated or cold, attic or non-attic. All varieties are suitable as a finishing coating roofing materials, including shingles and reeds.

IN wood construction Ancient technologies for constructing roofs at an angle have been preserved, and new methods have emerged that allow wood to move freely without the threat of destruction of the building. According to the method of installation, gable roofs of wooden buildings are divided into two fundamental categories:

• The roofs on the males are on chopped and joined log gables. They complete the walls of the box at the ends, representing their natural continuation. The load-bearing parts of the roof structure, according to the “male” method, rest directly on the gables. A sheathing is laid on top for installation of the finishing coating.
• Roofs with rafter system. They are constructed in accordance with the regulations dictated by standard technology for the construction of pitched roofs. Rafter roofs can be suspended or layered, resting on floor beams or on walls through the upper crown. The gables are simply covered with boards, thanks to which the construction budget is reduced along with the effect of a chopped house.

In fact, roof manufacturers rarely follow just one technology. The rafter structure can be combined with the male system. A hanging truss can be installed in the middle of a male roof so that it does not sag under its own weight, coupled with the roof and snow.

There are schemes that are generally difficult to classify into a specific category, because their decisive design features can be classified in different ways.

For example, the ceiling beam of a log house, matrix or transfer, can play the role of a basis for installing layered rafters or serve as a tie that combines elements into a hanging triangle. The tightening of the truss can be moved higher, as was suggested in another article describing the construction of a roof over a semi-attic. There are a lot of options, but to understand the principle of their design, you need to familiarize yourself with the classic schemes.

Rules for making a roof on males

It would be a sin for roof builders using the male scheme not to take advantage of the invaluable advantage of chopped boxes. They can be disassembled and reassembled many times like a children's construction set. Therefore, the upper crowns are simply removed from their proper places and installed on a suitable flat area.

It is much more pleasant to work on solid ground without risk; there is no need to move along shaky scaffolding and walkways. Under the crown, linings made of aspen chocks are installed. They imitate the previous rows of logs, thanks to which there is no slightest difficulty with leveling to the horizon and fitting nodes.

If we conditionally divide a log house into three horizontal parts, then the lower 2/3 will be on the walls, and the upper third will be on the frame of the gable roof. Essentially, this is a wedge-shaped top of a log house. They build it almost the same way, but gradually reduce the width of the end walls so that the edges of the gables resemble stairs with steps. Instead of long logs falling on the walls of the box, the logs are laid in a notch. They are not installed in every row, but after two or three.

Males, after being erected to full height, are filed down to form a clear triangular shape. Then the sheathing is mounted on the base, with roofing material on top.

The tops of the males are connected by a ridge strip, which can be laid in two different ways:

• With the installation lay down at the top of the male. In such cases, the log completing the pediment is cut into two edges. The stepped projections of the male are sawed off or hewn into a triangle. There are uncovered areas at the top that will need to be filled with shorties.
• Overlapping with logs of the male. According to this technology, the specified ridge beam is covered with male logs, shortened towards the top. The slopes are located below the line of future slopes. The sheathing then has to be constructed from logs of impressive thickness in order to align the plane of the slopes with the boundaries of the gables. Instead of laths, you can install rafters, the thickness of which compensates for the lack of height in the plane formed by the beams.

To make slugs, take the smoothest logs Ø 18-20cm. They are fastened with simple notches “in the paw” or complicated analogues “with a notch” or “spike”. Because the edge of the pediment is trimmed or sawed off, notches with horizontal parts of fastening units of the “in-a-pan” type are not suitable. After all, part of the load-bearing element of the connection will be removed during processing.

The length should form the gable overhang of the roof. Usually it is 0.5 m. If it is decided to increase the width of the overhang, the legs are laid in pairs or three in each “step” of the male to increase the load-bearing capacity of the structure. Upon completion of the construction of the roof frame, its geometry is checked by installing the board on an imaginary slope.

The bulges revealed by the board are trimmed off, the recesses are filled with wooden overlays. However, experienced carpenters advise not to sew on “patches”, but rather to trim more.

The old craftsmen did not use fasteners at all when making roofs on males. Structures of this kind are called nailless roofs. There were no gradually rusting rods in the body of the wood, so the structures lasted for hundreds of years.

Combination with rafters

It happens that the construction of a traditional male roof is not possible. For example, as a result of diligent cutting of excess from the legs and males, the cut-in joints can be significantly damaged. In such situations, the classic version is simply supplemented with layered rafters on top. The need to trim the humps then automatically disappears. The final alignment is done along the upper edges of the rafter legs.

The production of rafters is carried out according to a template with marks of notches and leg lengths. They are simply chopped with bowls. Accuracy in cutting the connections between the rafters and the slabs is not necessary; on the contrary, the bowls should be 3-5 cm larger than the outline of the slab. The log house will inevitably settle, losing height. The rafters will remain almost the same size except for a few mm. The settling box will drag the bottom of the rafters with it, causing the angle of connection between the bottom of the rafter and the top crown to decrease. Those. the rafters resting against the upper logs or floor beams will gradually move apart.

A relatively slight displacement of the rafters that is safe for the roof will be ensured by a wide notch. There should be a gap between the tops of the rafter legs resting on the ridge beam. Moving apart at the bottom, the rafters at the top will come closer together during a period of intense shrinkage. After shrinking, the tops are connected with a wooden overlay and/or a tie installed just below. Without waiting for shrinkage, you can connect them with a hinge unit, which allows the wooden parts of the system to move without creating gaps between the frame and the roof.

The lower heels of the rafters in the described scheme rest against the upper crown, which works like a Mauerlat, or against the edges of the mats - ceiling beams. The joints are made with tongue-and-groove notches, and the eaves overhang is extended with fillets. To prevent the gable log roof from being blown off the log house, the rafters are tied through one to the pins hammered into the second crown from the top with wire twists. In areas with high wind loads, you need to tie each rafter leg. After active shrinkage of the wooden structure, loose twists should be tightened.

Two slopes with layered rafters

The scheme is similar to the previous type, only the slugs are not needed at all. Rafter legs get their name from the fact that at the top and bottom they rest on independent supports. The lower heels rest on the upper crown, which serves as a mauerlat, or on the ceiling beams. To support the top of elements rafter system There are several options for a gable roof over a log house:

• A ridge or prince's line, laid between the males. The tops of the rafters laid lightly are not fastened or connected with a hinge for the reasons stated above.
• Internal main wall. There should also be a gap between the top of the rafters, because their edges rest on the walls different heights, therefore, with different shrinkage. There is no particular point in installing males for such a roof; the gables are simply sheathed with boards.
• Support structure installed on mats under the ridge beam. Males in this case again do not form. To compensate for shrinkage, the support pillars are installed on screw adjusting devices, which make it possible, following a decrease in the height of the log house, to reduce the length of the support posts. Previously, instead of compensating devices, wooden pads were used, which were removed after shrinkage.

The eaves overhang of a slanted roof over a log house is most often provided by sewn fillies. Although it can be formed by extending the rafter legs, if they are fastened not with notches, but with sliding connecting devices. Sliding fasteners allow you to build roofs over chopped piles without waiting for shrinkage.

Hanging roof structure diagram

Hanging rafter legs got their name because they seem to hang over the box being built. They only have walls as lower supports, and the same part of the rafter located opposite serves as the upper support. The lower heels are connected by a tie, thanks to which the hanging rafters turn into an equilateral triangle, also called a rafter arch or truss. The tightening “takes on the chest” the thrust transmitted in a layered pattern to the walls.

Compensating for the effect of thrust by tightening is a significant plus of the hanging system. It was happily borrowed by builders of layered roofs, trying to minimize the forces that push the walls of the house when the load on the slopes increases. The role of tightening can be successfully played by a ceiling beam. And then it really will not become clear whether it will be necessary to classify it as a layered or hanging category. rafter frame gable roof.

Priceless dignity hanging systems is that for production With The roof sides of the log house do not have to go up. All rafter triangles fit together perfectly according to the template and are adjusted in safe conditions.

The first place on the list of disadvantages is taken by restrictions on overlapped spans. Systems without a central support do not cover large-span buildings. When arranging a house up to 5 m wide, a simple rafter arch is used without additional parts that increase the rigidity of the structure. Tightenings for larger spans may bend from their own weight. To eliminate sagging, a headstock is installed in the center of the rafter triangle.

To understand the essence of constructing a hanging rafter system, let’s consider the technology of installing arches over a small log house. The lower heels of the rafters will rest on the ceiling beams; the connection of the upper edges will be reinforced with a wooden overlay and tie. We will entrust the formation of the eaves overhang to fillets, and we will entrust the responsibility of ensuring the rigidity of the structure to small supports. Males will not breed. The gables created by the slopes after installation work Let's sew it up with a board.

To mark the lines of the slopes, we find the centers of both ends and mark them on the upper crown. Focusing on the mark, we will vertically install a board, any longitudinal edge of which will repeat the imaginary central axis. We equip both ends with boards and mark the height of the roof on them using a water or laser level. You need to stretch a construction cord between the boards to mark the ridge line of the roof.

The procedure for installing a hanging roof:

• We align the beam bypasses that extend beyond the foot. We hammer a nail into the outer beams according to the design dimensions, pull the cord, mark the excess, and saw off with a chainsaw.
• On the ceiling beams we mark the location of the nests required for installing the rafter legs. We hammer the nails in the same way, tighten the lace and draw the groove lines for the future tooth on rafter leg.
• We make a template for the roof truss. We apply a board of suitable size with its lower edge to the first matrix, the upper edge must be held so that the edge of the board lies under the lace indicating the ridge line. Where the board and cord touch, place a mark and draw a line down from it using a plumb line. Using the matrix, we draw a line for the bottom cut and mark on the rafter the location of the tooth where the socket is marked on the beam.
• We make rafters using the template and assemble them on a level area.
• We transfer the rafter triangles to the roof and install them in place. We check the verticality with a plumb line and secure it with temporary jibs.
• On the mats inside the log house, using a ruler, two nails and laces, mark the grooves for supports under the rafter legs. It seems to me that it is more convenient to do this procedure together with marking the nests.
• We make supports by forming a spike at their base. We note the height of the support after the fact, trying it on the rafter leg.
• We install drains, the top of which is secured with two wooden plates.
• We select the grooves in the outer matrices for installing the fillies.
• We sew on the outer fillets, hammer nails into them, and stretch a cord between them.
• We install intermediate fillets along the cord, after installing which we decorate the overhangs with a wind board.

From the inside, the rafter triangles should be connected with diagonal wind ties. From the outside, the rigidity of the structure will be supported by lathing, the type of which is selected according to the type of finishing coating.

Those wishing to install a warm roof will need to install thermal insulation between the rafters. Waterproofing is laid on top of the rafters before installing the sheathing, regardless of whether the structure will be insulated.

The examples and diagrams of gable roofs over log boxes we have given will help you decide the best option construction. Any of the basic versions can be modified and adapted to individual technical specifications. Information about the specifics of the device is useful both for those who are going to equip their property with their own hands, and for those who need to control the work.

In general, a gable roof on a log house is a widely used solution. This is a relatively simple installation and no problems with snow during the cold season. In addition, almost all materials are suitable: metal tiles and slate. The main thing is to accurately calculate and design everything. The most important thing: correct calculation of the roof slope. From 20 to 60 degrees depending on weather conditions in the region.

Logging a gable roof: how to make a gable roof for a log house

In what ways can a gable roof be constructed on a log house? It is advisable to prefer new or old technology for constructing the roof of a log house.

Methods of attaching rafters to a log house

After erecting the walls and waiting for six months for the shrinkage to complete, you can proceed to the next stage of construction - installation roofing system. For wooden houses and bathhouses, most often a standard gable roof with a significant slope is chosen, on which snow will not accumulate. The rafters for a log house must be strong and correctly installed; the security of the walls and ceilings and the durability of the entire structure depend on the reliability of the roof. How to install rafters on a log house?

Installation options for the rafter system

Before installing the rafters, it is necessary to install the ceiling beams. In the upper crown of the log house it is necessary to make a technological hole, which is called a notch - a beam will be installed into it.

In this case, the hole should not be through so that the end of the ceiling beam does not suffer from atmospheric phenomena.

The distance between the beams depends on what material is supposed to be used for the ceiling, and on the options for using the attic or attic space. The minimum recommended step is half a meter.

Installation of rafters on a log house can be carried out in two main ways:

Installation and installation of rafters with your own hands on a log house or bathhouse The procedure for constructing any building in general is quite simple. First, the foundation is laid, the walls are erected, the roof is installed, and then construction is carried out. interior work

. The topic of this article is installing rafters on a log house with your own hands.

If you have a building made of logs or timber, then the top 2 crowns when constructing walls do not need to be secured before installing the ceiling beams. Special holes will be made in them, called “notches” for laying beams. The dimensions of the notches are determined by the dimensions of the ceiling beams, which, in turn, are pre-calculated for the expected loads. An option is possible in which no cutting is made into the upper crown, but in this case, if it is necessary to replace the ceiling beam, problems will arise, since you will have to remove the upper crown or saw off the damaged beam.

The notch for the ceiling beam must be “blind”, i.e. non-through. This will help protect the end of the beam from exposure to weather conditions.

The required step for installing ceiling beams is calculated based on the expected loads and the material you use for this, the minimum step is 50 cm.

After installing the ceiling beams, you can think about how to install rafters on the house or bathhouse.

There are few ways to assemble rafters, or rather, only 2:

1. Gather roof trusses on the ground and lifted to the house in finished form.
2. Assemble directly on the roof and lift elements of roof trusses there.

The first method is good for relatively light structures that can be lifted by several people. The second is used for massive rafters that are difficult to lift manually onto the house. If you have the ability to lift the rafters with a crane, you can also assemble heavy trusses on the ground.

Assembling roof trusses on the ground

In previous articles we talked about the ways in which various elements of roof trusses can be connected. In this article we will look at specific example assemblies of hanging rafters with a crossbar for a bathhouse measuring 5x4 with a gable roof. After assembly, we will install the rafters on the ground - it’s more convenient.

The rafter legs are made of edged boards “fifty” with a width of 10 cm. The crossbar and tie are made of the same material. The length of the rafter legs is 280 cm. The length of the tightening is 440 cm. We install the crossbar at a height of 50 cm from the ridge. The slope angles are 40°. Assembly instructions are determined by the design of the hanging rafters. The upper ends of the rafter legs rest against each other in the ridge; to do this, we saw off their ends so that the lower ends create an angle of 40° with a tightening (see photo). We also saw off the lower ends at the desired angle. You can fasten it using bolts, plates, nails, etc., having previously calculated the required quantity for each unit.

The crossbar gives additional rigidity to the rafters. To install it, we make a notch in the rafter leg to the width of the crossbar. At the ends of the crossbar we make a tooth with a length equal to the width of the rafter, and a thickness equal to the depth of the notch - on the rafter leg. We fasten with screws, nails or other fastening materials.

Do-it-yourself installation of rafters begins with the outer trusses, so it is better to sheathe them directly on the ground. To do this, after 40 cm we fill the rafters with bars for fastening the sheathing; the material for the bars can be taken in sizes 40x40 or 50x50. The sheathing boards should protrude beyond the tie by a width of 2.5 cm or more, so that water from the gable does not flow onto the sheathing of the bathhouse frame. When the cornice is sheathed, this outlet will be hidden by its sheathing.

You can sheathe the pediment not vertically, but horizontally. Then the sheathing is stuffed vertically, connecting the tie and rafter legs. Here, too, you need to provide 2.5 cm for the outlet on the tightening side, for the same purposes as in the vertical cladding option.

Installing assembled trusses

After all the trusses are assembled, they need to be lifted sequentially to the roof.

The rafter installation technology is as follows:

1. We raise and secure the outer trusses. To do this, we drill 2-3 holes in the tightening for attaching the rafters to the beams of the upper crown of the log house. We place a plumb line on the crossbar in the center to control the verticality of the truss.
2. If this is required by calculation, we install additional jibs. Jib booms can also be used to temporarily secure trusses until the entire system is fully installed. Once all the trusses have been lifted and installed, the jib can be removed.
3. We install the central truss, also checking its verticality and securing it with additional elements if necessary.
4. We install the remaining trusses in the same way as the central one.
5. We connect the trusses together using lathing. It can be made from timber, edged or unedged boards, plywood, OSB boards. The choice of material for the sheathing is determined by the choice of roofing material with which you are going to cover the roof.

In order to assemble the rafters on the roof in the same way, 4 people are needed. The rafter legs are connected in a horizontal position, and then lifted and installed in place using ropes. In this option, difficulties may arise when installing intermediate trusses, since those already installed will interfere with their lifting.

As you can see, in the above example, the installation of trusses was carried out in the absence of a ridge girder. If a ridge girder is required for the roof, then it is no longer possible to assemble the rafters on the ground. In this case, they will have to be lifted onto the roof disassembled and assembled at the installation site.

Assembling rafters on the roof

If the design of your house provides for layered rafters, and not hanging ones, as in the previous example, then in order to install them, you need additional support. How to install the rafters correctly in this case? First you need to install the ridge girder.

If the gables of your house are made of brick or blocks, then the purlin can be supported on them, while the ends of the purlin should protrude beyond the gables so that you can create a cornice overhang. Purlins are usually made of logs or timber. The standard length of such material is 6 m. Manually lifting such a log onto the roof of a house is quite problematic; most likely, a crane will be required. The gables must withstand the pressure of the purlin, so they are made using reinforced masonry. By the way, it is possible to install the roof without rafters, only using ridge and side purlins. In this case, the sheathing is packed onto the purlins. This method is applicable for a roof with a cold attic space; if you plan to use the attic for housing, then keep in mind that in the attic the insulation must be able to be ventilated, so you will still have to use layered rafters.

For this type of rafters, the location of all elements in the same plane does not matter and the rafters can be laid on the ridge girder one by one.

Depending on the material and design loads, rafters may have additional elements in the form of braces, struts, racks. We described their fastening scheme in previous articles. If, according to the design of your house, the gables are not designed for the installation of a ridge girder, it is mounted on several racks, which are installed on the floor. In this case, the beam is first mounted, the racks are installed on it, then the ridge girder and only then the layered rafters.

Installation and installation of rafters with your own hands on a log house or bathhouse: technology

Installation of rafters is possible in 2 ways. The first is when the roof truss is assembled on the ground and raised to the roof in finished form. The second is when the rafters are installed directly on the roof.

Everyone knows what a bathhouse is. Special conditions, such as high humidity And heat air, require a serious approach to the issue of roof construction. Bathhouse roof designs are created taking into account many nuances. Which ones? This is exactly what will be discussed further.

What should a roof for a bathhouse be like?

There are few places where you can see a bathhouse with an intricately shaped roof and decorative elements. Usually, during its construction, they choose such roof options for a bathhouse that you can easily make yourself. In this case, it is necessary to take into account what material the walls of the building are made of, its dimensions, what kind of foundation and in what area the bathhouse is located.

The most common roofs are:

• gable;
• single slope;
• inclined;
• flat.

A shed roof for a bathhouse is usually constructed if it is adjacent to a house or other building. This type of roof has a relatively low cost, its design is simple, so this option will become great solution for those who started building a bathhouse roof with their own hands.

A gable roof is a classic option for a bathhouse built from logs. The height of the slopes can be adjusted, and if desired, you can arrange an attic space in the bathhouse for domestic premises. The slope of the slopes can be different (within 2.5-60 degrees).

When determining the angle of inclination of the bathhouse roof, you need to take into account the weather conditions in the area. If the winters are snowy, it is better to make a larger angle of inclination so that the snow does not accumulate, but if strong winds often blow, it is better to give preference to a flat roof.

Construction of the base for the roof of the bathhouse

The roof of a bathhouse, like the roof of any other building, consists of such basic elements as:

• rafters;
• sheathing;
• roofing covering.

The roof structure itself can be assembled either directly on the log house or on the ground with its subsequent lifting to the top. The first option is preferable, since the second requires the presence of special equipment.

The sheathing can be either solid or consist of bars or boards sewn not close to each other. The choice of lathing method directly depends on the material with which the roof will be covered. Under metal tiles or roofing felt you need a solid shield, but a corrugated sheet of bitumen allows for gaps of up to 25 cm.

Choosing material for covering the bath

The modern range of roofing materials makes it possible to think carefully about which one to choose for the roof of the bathhouse. Let's consider the most popular materials.

Metal roofing can be divided into 2 types:

• galvanized steel (roofing) is affordable, easy to install, and can withstand significant loads;
• non-ferrous metals (aluminum, copper, etc.) have excellent anti-corrosion properties.

Soft roofing materials are presented on the market in the form of polymer sheets or roofing mastic. The quality of this type of coating is very good and such a roof can last up to 50 years.

Metal tiles, as well as bitumen and ceramic tiles are quite popular roofing materials for bathhouses due to their appearance. Performance characteristics of these materials is on high level, but their cost is also not small.

Ondulin is high quality modern material, which is easy to use, has a low cost, and its performance indicators are excellent.

Recently, cellular polycarbonate has begun to be used for the roof of the bathhouse. This material allows you to create a comfortable and cozy atmosphere thanks to soft natural lighting.

Roof for the bathhouse: what for what?

The first step when building a roof on a bathhouse is to build a supporting structure, which consists of rafters and purlins. After this, you need to equip the roof with sheathing and a special waterproofing layer.

You need to start work by laying support beams on top of the wall, which will act as a support. If the project plans to build an attic, then the beams need to be fixed in the sockets. In this case, the fastening of the beams must be strictly horizontal.

Rafters are attached to the support, which are most often beams, logs or boards. They are fastened using special wooden or metal plates. The rafters should be placed not too far from each other - a distance of no more than 1 meter is considered optimal.

Further actions depend on what roofing material was chosen. If it is rolled, then you should start constructing a wooden panel on the frame. If you plan to use tiles or slate, you will need to do lathing. To do this, a board is fixed parallel to the roof ridge, to which beams are nailed at equal distances.

The ridge itself is closed either with galvanized iron or with special blanks. The gables can be covered with clapboard, siding or any other material. All that remains is to cover the roof with the selected roofing material.

Insulating the roof of a bathhouse is a simple and yet necessary process. Easiest to install thermal insulation material into the openings between the rafters. Its thickness should not be less than 200 mm.

If you have doubts about the type of roof and the choice of roofing material, you can look various photos bathhouse roofs on the Internet, and choose the ideal option for yourself.

Photo of the bathhouse roof

The roof is the most important part of any house... Well, you already know this, so let’s skip the introductory overflows from empty to empty. The article will focus on roofs for log houses, and especially on roofing options for log houses with chopped gables.

By the way, speaking in strict terminology, the roof is the entire structure that crowns the house. And the roofing is the roof deck itself - slate, tiles, etc. Also: what is commonly called a pediment is, strictly speaking, a gable - a continuation of the end wall of the house, that part of it that is limited by the slopes of the roof. The pediment is an architectural decoration, and it is usually separated by a cornice from the main facade.

And here is the pediment.

How can roofs differ?

• According to the form.

Log houses, as a rule, have pitched roofs various forms. The most typical and simplest one for private houses is a gable (or gable) one. This is exactly what we will talk about in this article.

also in low-rise construction Attics, and accordingly mansard roof shapes, are popular. However, for the attic it is not necessary to construct a broken-shaped roof. You can make a so-called “half-attic” if you raise the walls by approximately 1/3 or half of the floor and install a regular gable roof. You can even get by with a regular gable (triangular) roof if it is wide and high enough.

• According to the degree of insulation.

In principle, you can cover the sheathing with slate, and you’re done. And to insulate the ceiling - the ceiling between the attic and the living floor. This is, of course, the simplest and most brutal option. Many people prefer to tinker more thoroughly with a roof, even a cold one - especially now, when so many materials have appeared, and according to the assurances of their manufacturers, you cannot take a single step without all kinds of steam, hydro and other insulation and insulation. But the key idea is that it is much easier to structurally insulate the attic floor (ceiling) than the roof itself. Especially if we are talking about a log house with chopped pediments, and then it will be clear why.

On the other hand, you can make an insulated roof - for the attic, or in order not to make a separate ceiling (for example, in a bathhouse - in a relaxation room).

• According to the design of load-bearing elements:
• Many people know that the main load-bearing elements of the roof are the rafters. But there is also...
• roofing on slabs

• mixed slab-rafter structure.

The rafters can be rigidly connected to the frame of the house, or they can be sliding (“floating”) - an independent rafter structure. Hard ones are traditionally divided into:

• hanging - exert bursting pressure on the walls when the weight of the roof is transferred to the building; acceptable with a width between supports (external walls) of up to 6 - 6.5 meters;
• layered - connected to each other by a tie - a beam - at the lower ends, and thus exert vertical pressure; mandatory when the step between supports is from 7 meters.

In their pure form, hanging rafters are rare; they are often reinforced with crossbars, additional racks, jibs and other structural elements. The entire structure of a pair of rafters with other elements is called a truss. In addition to suspended and layered structures that are assembled on site, there are roof trusses that are assembled in a factory and delivered ready-made.

• Of course, roofs also differ in appearance. roofing covering, but this is already understandable.

What kind of roof should be installed on a log house?

For a log house roof with chopped gables, only the option with sliding rafters is suitable.

All this is due to significant shrinkage of the log house. Now we are talking about gable roofs. It's simple: if some part of the frame is higher than another, then the geometry between these parts will change after shrinkage. Each log loses up to 15% of its diameter in the process of shrinkage, but this is a fairly large amount. For rounded logs the standard is 6-8%.

A chopped pediment is like this:

The logs in the gable (gable) part are called "males".

If the log house is a flat box, then all its walls will settle equally. But if some parts (gables) are higher than others (longitudinal walls), then the difference in height between them will change, and if you build a roof on rigidly fixed rafters, then it will literally be torn off the frame, the males may fall out... In general, this is fraught with a serious emergency situation.

Here's how the chopped pediment shrinks:

For which log houses are rigid rafter structures suitable? For those without tongs! When the roof is placed on a flat frame box - for example, a hip roof. Or you can make a frame pediment (with boards, a blockhouse, etc.) ... But this will not be quite a log house in its pure form.

A full-fledged log house with a gable roof can only have a chopped pediment. Why? Because the pediment is also a part of the house, and a considerable one at that. If you make it frame, it turns out that half the house is a frame assembly. Maybe this is practical - because it’s simpler - but in this case, it’s practical to build the whole house according to frame technology. Log houses are erected for their special merits, and if they are to be done, then do it sensibly and without half-measures.

When to put a roof on a log house?

Immediately after the walls are erected and before installing windows and doors. Sometimes there are recommendations: wait until the shrinkage takes place, or make a temporary roof. It's all nonsense. A house without a roof is not even a house yet. During the shrinkage process, the geometry of the log house is formed with all the loads, that is, the house must be completed and the roof too. It makes sense to do temporary roofing only if you have difficulties with the construction of a permanent roof.

Technologies that make it possible to build a log roof that will survive shrinkage exist. There are no objective reasons to postpone construction.

About the attic and attic

It is clear that the attic is a living space, but the attic is usually not. The attic requires major roof insulation, the attic does not.

If we talk about the construction of a load-bearing roof structure in log houses with chopped gables, then it is much easier to make an attic. More precisely, an uninsulated roof. However, this does not mean that attic space cannot be used as residential. There you can arrange a summer attic.

In the old days in Rus' they didn’t make “warm” roofs, but they built them in the attic summer rooms. This part of the house was called “terem”.

To create a warm, all-season attic, you will have to tinker a lot with the roof. In this case, if there is a need and opportunity, wouldn’t it be better to build another full floor?

What are the advantages of a house with an attic:

• easier to build;
• the attic becomes a climatic buffer between living quarters and the external environment;
• hence - less problems with condensation, ventilation, etc., there are no zones of sudden changes in temperature and humidity in the ceilings, due to which the durability of the roof increases;
• the attic can still be usefully used - as a utility room, or as a summer guest room;
• it is easier to monitor the condition of the roof and carry out routine renovation work And so on.

What are the advantages of an attic? The living space of the house increases, but it’s not for nothing that you get it! Setting up a spacious attic will not cost much less than building another floor.

Anti-shrinkage roof structure for chopped gables

There are two fundamental solutions:

• roof on slags - similar in technology to traditional nailless roof structures of traditional Slavic log houses;
• installation of sliding rafters.

There is also a rafter-rafter system, but these are the same sliding rafters, only with the addition of side rafters.

In fact, this is butter oil, because in the first version the load-bearing beams are located horizontally, and in the second version vertically. Both structures are powerful enough to withstand the heaviest roofing, such as a tile roof. There is no point in duplicating them.

Another thing is that in addition to holding the roof, the sleds also rigidly connect the gables. And when rafters are added to such a structure, they do this in two cases:

• to lay sheathing on the vertical rafters;
• to make a thick pie of a warm roof for the attic.

It is likely that engineering solutions for arranging a warm roof on a slab base are quite possible, but they have not yet been developed, since for now developers have enough rafters. Therefore, if you plan to build an attic, you cannot avoid installing rafters unless you want to experiment.

Rafters on sliding joints

The rafters are attached above the ridge beam (in the old fashioned way: “prince’s slega”, “knes”) to the upper crown of the longitudinal walls by means of sliding joints, the so-called “sliding joints”. It looks like this:

This mount has two parts:

• guide strip (mounted on the rafter leg);
• support corner (attached to the upper crown).

The length of the guide strip can be different, the maximum will allow the rafter leg to move down by 16 cm. This is more than enough to shrink the highest roof.

It is recommended to attach the guide bar along the axis of the rafter, and this is correct. However, then one wonderful nuance arises. In most photos found on the Internet, you can see that the corner is installed and secured perpendicular to the plank. Moreover, the top of the angle loop is located close to the top edge of the guide. It is not right!

The fact is that when shrinking, the rafter will not only move down, but also the angle between the rafter and the horizontal line between the top points of the walls will change (see above for the dynamic shrinkage diagram). If the rafter rests on a log, then the part of it that goes down to the plumb line of the roof will rise relative to the wall, and the lower part of the mounting guide will rise up. But the position of the corner will not change, and the bar will cut into the corner with one edge. As a result, the movable connection unit is deformed.

True, if you cut out grooves for the rafters in the upper crown with a margin for the angle at which the rafter is lowered, then there will be no distortion, the plank together with the rafter leg will simply fall a little lower and will slide normally. But this point must be remembered when installing the rafters, and cut out a groove with a margin so that the rafter fits, or do not adjoin the support corner at the top closely to the guide strip, but it is better to do both.

Description of the dynamic scheme:
1.this is how the rafter will go
2. This is where this part of the rafter will rise, and with it the guide bar
3. This is how this part of the rafter and the guide strip should be lowered, just at an angle of 3°-5°
4. but this is enough for the bar to crash into the corner hinge and begin to pull out the fastening
5. however, if a cut is made that allows the rafter leg to lower in this direction, then there will be no problems

One more thing: attach the corner to the supporting log closer to the inside of the log house - so that there is room for the board, which you will then use to cover the space between the rafters.

And the third important nuance. As a result of shrinkage, the rafters will not only move down, the angles of the roof will also change, not by much - by 3-5 degrees - but this is enough to create problems. One problem - in the sliding fastening - has already been noted. The second is in the connection of the rafters at the ridge. It must be hinged.

In many photos on the Internet you can see this:

And this is an example of fastening a rafter pair in a sliding structure! A slope angle of 3° with a shoulder of about 4 meters (the length of the rafters of a not very wide roof) can seriously affect the geometry of the roof. Rigid fastening of rafters in the ridge is unacceptable! Otherwise, the slippers will be of no use!

You need to fasten the rafters on the ridge either with an overlap, like this:

or this way:

Watch this video to, as they say, “see once” what we’re talking about:

Roof on slabs - ideal for chopped gables

Slegs are horizontal log beams that connect and rigidly fix the gables of the log house; are not only naturally constructive, but also architectural element. For example, long logs (pomochi) protruding from the gables fit elegantly into the design of a “wild log house” - you can put a wide console on them.

A slab roof structure looks something like this:

What's good about this decision?

• Why rafters if there is already a main supporting structure for the roof? Additionally, there is no need to nail or install anything. If you lay them down often enough, then they are a ready-made sheathing on which you can lay, for example, tiles or shingles. In any case, slate or metal tiles will lie on the floor.
• You can put a continuous sheathing (boards end-to-end) on top of it, which is almost a finished roof!
• The legs are cut into the males, and, therefore, when shrinking, they are lowered along with the gable of the log house - there is no need to do anything with sliding fasteners.

Generally speaking, the slab structure appeared much earlier than the rafter structure.

All of the above advantages of slugs are valid if nothing is rigidly attached to them so that this fastening prevents shrinkage. That is, if you nail the sheathing on the legs, then shrinkage will become a problem - the purlins will sink along with the males, but the sheathing and everything that you nailed to them will not.

But! You can lay boards on the beds without fixing them rigidly. Thus, we get either lathing or wooden - for example, plank roofing.

How to do it? It is possible, in principle, to nail the edges of the boards to the ridge beam (knes) along one line parallel to the axis of the knes - so that with a slight change in the angle at which the boardwalk will lie, it will not be torn off. But even this is not necessary.

The old technology of Russian wooden architecture suggests a solution.

Roof "without a single nail"

The chickens cut into several side slugs. The chickens themselves were cut down from spruce trunks, and the hook was made from the root system. The hens supported the stream - a hollowed out log, against which rested the boardwalk - the roof plank. The upper part of the plank was laid freely on the ridge beam in such a way that during shrinkage the upper ends of the gables could freely converge. For this purpose, space was left during installation. The ridge beam (knes) was hewn on both sides so that the gorges would fit more tightly.

If you leave 10 cm for lifting the gorges along the Knes, then this will be more than enough, because when shrinking, the chicken will also fall, and therefore the gorges lying on the beds. From above, the gorge was pressed against the ridge beam with an ohlupnik - a heavy hollowed out log. In this way, the gorges were fixed both at the top of the roof and on the plumbs.

Of course, now no one forces you to meticulously follow the ancient technology; where appropriate, you can use nails, screws, etc. The main thing is to grasp the principle. What is it?

Here's what:

In the same way, today you can attach a continuous sheathing to a slab roof. If you don’t want to bother with chickens (although this is no more difficult than with a rafter system), then you can rest the boards against a hollow hollowed out in the upper crown. Moreover, you can do the opposite - attach the boards to the ridge beam, so that they then fall into the hollow in the upper crown. This is exactly how they work when installing a warm roof using “Norwegian” technology, which I will briefly discuss below.

“Disadvantage” of the slug design

This is a very conditional “disadvantage”. The point is that since the rafter system is now in fashion, no current engineering solutions have been developed for arranging a warm roof on slabs. Although such solutions are undoubtedly possible.

However, if you are interested in a roof with a “cold” attic, or a summer attic, then a slab roof is best option. The roof in this case is better - traditionally - planked.

A little about wooden roofing

It would seem: wooden roof? she'll rot!

This is wrong. A roof made of aspen (similar materials are shingles, ploughshares), or planks can last 40-50, or even more years. An additional advantage is that such a roof is easy and cheap to repair - you only need to replace the damaged elements. In the case of a major renovation of a plank roof, only the top layer of the gorges will have to be changed; the underlay, as a rule, remains intact.

What is a plank roof? This is the first layer of hewn boards, with a second layer on top. Birch bark (“rock”) can be laid between them for additional insulation, waterproofing and an antiseptic effect. Birch bark has powerful antiseptic properties, and extends them to those materials that come into contact with it. There is no point in impregnating such wooden roofs with anything - the rain will quickly wash it away anyway, and there will be no special effect.

I recommend a very high-quality video about roofing in Russian wooden architecture :

As for the “warmth” of such a wooden roof, think for yourself. This, of course, is not 20 cm of some “Rockwell”, but two layers of tightly fitted wood covered with birch bark. In any case, it is warmer than bare slate, tiles, or metal tiles, etc. That is, for an attic or summer attic that is completely protected from severe cold and moisture - excellent. Yes, such a roof does not allow water to pass through. It does not need a vapor barrier (after all, it breathes, just like the walls of a log house!). Therefore, by the way, there is no need to fill wooden roof bitumen, or shove roofing felt there, as some strange people sometimes advise. Due to such attempts at “modernization”, the roof may, on the contrary, rot – because natural ventilation will be disrupted.

Similarly, a shingle roof has the same properties.

Simple and to the point about aspen shingles:

The difference between a gorge and a regular edged board is that when cutting a log into boards, the natural structure of the wood is disrupted - the fibers are torn. During the production of planks and shingles, splitting occurs along the fibers, making these building materials better resistant to aggressive environmental influences.

Warm roof for the attic using “Norwegian” technology

In this case, the point is not in this specific technology - I won’t explain it in detail now - it’s in the principle of constructing such roofs. General principle the same everywhere.

As I already said, if you want to make an attic, then you will have to tinker with the slab-rafter structure of the roof. Moreover, the broken line mansard roof and the chopped pediment of the log house is a bad combination. If there is a log house and male tongs, then it is better to build a semi-attic.

Let me briefly highlight the main points of the general scheme:

1. We have a ledge and a ridge ledge, which is hewn in order to place boards on its hewn edges.

1. We have a lower crown with a hollowed-out groove into which the boards fit (they don’t go in all the way - a good margin is left for shrinkage; that is, this sheathing will slide down).
2. The boards are laid end-to-end in a checkerboard pattern so that the second layer overlaps the joints of the first, and fastened together to form a wooden shield. From above he - continuous sheathing, below - that is, inside the house - the attic ceiling.

So far, everything looks very much like a wooden roof on slabs, doesn’t it?

1. They put it on the shield.
2. The rafters are placed on sliding fasteners.
3. Mineral wool is laid between the rafters.
4. (It’s interesting here - after all, polystyrene foam is possible! And why not? Mineral wool is not at all more environmentally friendly and not “more natural”, and for that matter - polystyrene foam is not afraid of condensation, which means there is no need for the hassle with insulation films. But for some reason more often we are talking about mineral wool in the recipes for such “pies”.)
5. On top of the insulation is a waterproofing membrane.
6. And this is where the rafters make sense! Another sheathing is attached to them.
7. The finishing roofing material is attached to it.

Get the basic idea: in this whole scheme, sliding rafters appeared only because it was necessary to put insulation, for example. In order to get a “warm” roof for the attic. In any other case, the roof could be laid directly on the first sheathing, or even immediately on the bottom!

This is the general principle:

For the construction of log house roofs with chopped (male) gables, if it is possible and even necessary to install powerful massive slabs, the installation of rafters is only necessary in the case of arranging an attic.

In general, you need to think creatively so as not to do bad, unnecessary work. And now many people have a strange and irrational belief that no matter what kind of roof there is, rafters are a must! But this is far from true.

• Do not try to make a roof with a steep slope - they say, so that the snow melts and the rain does not fall. The rain will still hit the roof, and the snow will be natural in winter time insulation. Without snow, the roof is colder. Remember, if the snow does not fall on time, then winter crops freeze - from school biology.

A normal roof will also have a slope of 18-20 degrees. For shingles and planks - from 28. The lower the slope, the less materials and work will be required on the roof.

• Rafters are usually made from beams 50x150 (200) mm. You can often take a width of 40mm. According to regulations, the roof structure must withstand the weight of the roofing material plus 200 kg per square meter area.

• It is enough to attach the sliding connection to the rafters on one side; if you attach them on both sides, they will be in one place! - wear out the rafters.
• You can perfectly use unedged boards in roof construction, but it is important to remove the bark from it and plan the sapwood. Under the bark there are areas of moisture accumulation and decay.

Finally, a video about making chickens - the structural elements of a “roof without nails” - is not so difficult:

When cutting a log house, you must comply technological sequence, which is an important process for high-quality construction of a log house. Particular attention should be paid to the strong fastening of the rafters to the frame, on which the reliability and service life of the roof will depend.

The main tools for work are:

• roulette;
• saw;
• square;
• pencil;
• hammer;
• screwdriver;
• level.

Marking the placement of rafters during their installation

Marking the fastening of boards to the frame must begin from the gables, with the elements being laid tightly to the gables. But first, a supporting element - a tooth - must be cut out in the board. In the upper crown of the log house, repeating the size of the tooth, a groove is cut out. It should also be noted that it is impossible to produce without a tooth and groove. When positioned from above, the ends of the elements must be laid 5 cm lower, taking into account the height of the pediment.

When the design of a log house roof includes a ridge element made of timber or logs, marking the installation, the rafters need to be nailed to them. When all elements (braces, sheathing) are installed, the temporary fastening in the form of nails is removed.

This is required so that all elements do not freeze during the process.

Typically, rafters are installed in increments of 60 cm or more.

The step distance will depend on the building project and its location. The rafters are installed on both sides of the pediment, resulting in a tent shape. In places where the rafters come into contact with the gables, there should be a gap of at least 5 cm, which is subsequently filled with insulating material.

Installation of hanging rafters: features

In this case, only the walls serve as support, which can lead to a horizontal thrust load throughout the entire structure (log house). To alleviate these loads, before installing and connecting the rafters to the wall base (log house), it is important to use a tie, which is made from a bar or board, thanks to which the counter elements are connected while being rigid in the upper part. The result is a non-thrust triangular frame, which is installed on the crowns of the log house.

There is a similar method when floor beams are used. Such elements are installed with the rafters in the same plane and perpendicular to the wall base. A similar method is used when installing attic buildings.

The connection of the structure with beams, regardless of the weight of the roof, is recommended if the walls of the log house are sufficiently strong and stable. This is due to the fact that the pressure on the walls of the log structure itself will be point-like, and not uniform, as when using a Mauerlat.

With this method, beams for the floor structure must be selected with dimensions of 50x150 mm. When arranging a roof overhang, wooden blocks are taken of a size that allows for a protrusion of at least 55 cm. The rafter elements with this method should protrude beyond the base of the wall and be attached to the edge of the block.

Mauerlat attachment technology

The Mauerlat is one of the outermost elements of a log house roof. It bears pressure from the large weight of the entire roof, which should be equally distributed among the load-bearing elements. It is made with rafter elements, which provide this pressure. Mauerlat can be made from solid logs laid around the perimeter, or in meter-long pieces that are placed directly under the rafter elements.

For the manufacture of Mauerlat, only logs, beams and boards with minimum sizes 100x100 mm, 100x150 mm and 150x150 mm. If logs are used, then one of the sides is cut for maximum contact with the top crown of the log house. The Mauerlat can be secured using several methods.

When the log house is made of logs or timber, the mauerlat is mounted along the top row and installed on the logs. You can pin:

• using wooden or steel dowels;
• steel staples;
• metal corner;
• using galvanized wire with a minimum diameter of 4 mm.

How the rafters are attached to the Mauerlat

Fastening the rafters is a crucial moment in the roof installation process. The condition of the roof under the influence of gusts of wind, snow cover, and sudden temperature changes will depend on the method of fastening the rafter elements with the Mauerlat. All wooden elements are capable of absorbing moisture and at the same time expanding, and under the influence of rising temperatures, contracting. Given the characteristics of wooden structures, it is not recommended to arrange all connections with rigid fastening, as this leads to breaks and displacements. The occurrence of expansion forces affecting the walls of the log house due to careless installation of structures can also pose a danger. To prevent this from happening, you need to have an idea of ​​how to install rafters on a log house.

Rafters with a Mauerlat can be secured using the following methods:

• hard;
• sliding.

The type of interface is used taking into account the shape of the roof and the type of rafters - layered or hanging.

Using a rigid mount

When installing rafters on beams using the rigid fastening method, it is important to adhere to certain requirements and eliminate bending, twisting, turns and shifts between elements.

These requirements can be achieved:

• secured with a corner with a hemmed block for support;
• making a cut on the rafter element and fastening this connection with nails and staples.

Using a corner with hemmed support bars, the rafters are placed on the mauerlat. The element itself must have a rigid stop along the load line due to a hemmed beam about 1 m long. It is also fixed on the sides with a metal corner to avoid shifting.

The second installation method is most applicable. With this option, fixation with nails is carried out from the side, at an angle, they are crossed inside the Mauerlat, and a third nail must be driven vertically. This results in a rather rigid assembly when fastening.

In both options, the connections are secured by another fastening of the elements to the wall, using wire or anchors.

At the same roof slope angle, the rafters are prepared using a template, that is, the same size.

Application of sliding joint

A sliding connection is created by fastening with the ability to move one element. In this situation, such an element will be the rafters to the mauerlat. You can attach the rafters to the mauerlat with the ability to move using the following methods:

The method of sawing and installing the rafter element and sawing the Mauerlat:

• making a connection using 2 nails on the sides diagonally so that they intersect;
• making the connection with one nail, which is hammered in the upper part through all the rafters and into the mauerlat;
• the nails are replaced with a plate with holes;
• using staples, fasten the rafters and the mauerlat;
• the rafters protrude beyond the wall and are secured only with plates.

The connection is made using special fasteners - slides.

Each method allows the rafter elements to move relative to each other.

Roof structure of a log house

Traditionally, for log houses, several types of roofs are common in appearance and, as a consequence, in structure and design. The main ones are - triangular gable roof, single-pitch roof, mansard "broken" frame roof, hipped, hipped and half-hipped roofs. Let's look at them in a little more detail.

Triangular gable roof

The triangular gable roof of a log house is the most common; it is also the most stable in terms of geometry in relation to other types of roofs. A triangular roof can have a regular proportional shape, or with a ridge offset to the side. In the photo below as clear example log houses with a triangular gable roof are presented

Shed roof

Shed roofs are less common on log houses and are less common and, as a rule, are made on small buildings and extensions, toilets, and gazebos. Roofs of this type are also common on sheds and garages, sometimes on log bathhouses. Example pitched roof can be seen in the photo below

Gable "broken" roof

Gable "broken" mansard roof - from the word "with a break." This form allows you to make a frame second floor in area, almost like the first floor room. With a “broken” roof, unlike a triangular one, there is more clean living space - the second floor turns out to be full. We also note that the installation of such a roof will be more expensive, since it uses a larger amount of material when forming the frame and labor costs, compared to a traditional triangular gable roof. The surface area of ​​the roof itself also increases, which somewhat increases the amount of material and the cost of covering the roof with roofing materials. In the photo below you can see an example of a log house with a “broken” roof

Hip roof

Hip roof - from the word "tent". The design of this type of roof is relatively complex; a large amount of lumber is used in its formation; the roof is also quite labor-intensive, since almost every part of the hip rafter system and roofing materials is made and adjusted individually. As for the cost, this roof is one of the most expensive. In the case of a hip roof, all the ribs of the roof converge at one central point. Examples of a hip roof are shown in the photo below.

Hip roof

The hip roof is similar in design to the hip roof, and in terms of the complexity of the rafter system it also belongs to the class complex roofs. The main difference between hip and hip roofs is that the ribs of the hip roof do not meet at one point. The middle part of the roof is triangular in shape for a third of the length of the house and then the roof diverges to the edges at the corners from different points. Design example hip roof shown in the photo below