Interior decoration of a house made of timber (interior decoration of a timber house)

Houses made of timber are most often finished with clapboard, imitation timber or other natural materials. The peculiarities of the interior decoration of a house made of timber include that when using dry profiled timber, the inner side of the walls can not be covered with clapboard, but simply sanded and painted. Less commonly, a house made of profiled timber is finished with plasterboard, tiles, etc. This is partly due to the fact that the walls look beautiful and natural without finishing. It is also worth noting that the interior decoration of a house made of timber usually begins after the house has settled.

Interior decoration of a frame house

Manufactured houses frame technology, do not shrink. That is, if a frame house set is made of dry wood, then it will not change its size and shape at all. And any finishing work can begin immediately after installation of the roof.

If the frame of the house is made of lumber of natural moisture, then as the wood dries, the gaps in the joints may increase. In this case facade works and interior finishing of a frame house are available after natural shrinkage of the frame. (3-6 months)

Interior decoration of a house from SIP panels

Houses made from SIP panels are the same frame houses only in them as wall material a SIP panel (structural insulating panel) is used, consisting of a layer of insulation, covered on both sides with OSB sheets. As is the case with frame houses You can begin interior finishing of a house using SIP panels immediately after completion. construction work, no shrinkage time is required.

Interior decoration of a log house

Most the best option For a log house, the walls will be sanded and coated with special compounds and caulked with decorative rope. Simply put, preserving and enhancing the natural beauty of wood. But in some cases, a log house is covered with plasterboard, MDF, tiled in bathrooms and other similar materials.

Finishing nuances

It is possible to begin finishing the inside of a wooden house only after painstakingly studying the topic: methods, technologies. The materials used for wall cladding are those that allow air to pass through and create good microcirculation.

If you use sealed materials, the walls of the house simply stop breathing. These rules fully apply to the insulation process and external treatment. If the structure does not allow air to pass through, then the greenhouse effect is inevitable. The problem can be solved with the help of forced ventilation, which means that significant investments, loss of time, and the need to control the quality of ventilation will be required.

When carrying out interior finishing wooden house you need to use lightweight materials that will not increase the load on the foundation.

Start of the process

Finishing is possible after the end of the active stage of shrinkage. This rule applies to a new, newly built house. If you have to process an old structure, you can start immediately. It is important to consider the following:

• If the base of the house is a log and ordinary timber, then ideally the finishing starts no earlier than a year.
• If the base of the house is dry profiled or laminated veneer lumber, you can start working in 1-2 months.

Need to be taken into account climatic features, average temperature, humidity indicators. Finishing the interior of walls made of logs and ordinary timber is allowed after caulking is completed.

The work involves two stages:

• First, the caulking process is carried out several weeks after the walls are assembled.
• The second part begins at least 6 months later - after shrinkage.

To caulk walls, you need a material with heat-insulating and sealing properties. Tow and jute meet all the criteria for high quality. They are widespread due to their affordable cost, unpretentiousness, and durability. It also happens in practice that some people use moss as a material for caulking because... there were no more modern substitutes.

Work is carried out from the outside and inside at the same time; you need to start from the bottom. As soon as the crown is ready on one side, it is worth moving to the other side - this will help avoid distortion.

When the work is completed, the object will rise a few centimeters, but soon the inter-crown filler will become more dense and the original height will return. Drafts will practically not make themselves felt due to the tight fit of the timber or log; this will significantly increase the thermal insulation performance.

Caulk wooden walls- a special type of activity that implies its own technologies and nuances; you can find out more about this in the article. As soon as the second caulking is completed, you need to measure the height of the walls from time to time. If the data has not changed within a couple of months, it means that the shrinkage has ended and finishing can begin.

Preparation for finishing

It is not always advisable to veneer walls from the inside. If the inter-crown insulation is invisible, and the design is neat and tidy, then the sheathing can be abandoned and replaced with cheaper, practical paints and varnishes. However, if the caulking seams are unattractive, there are surface defects, and the texture is uneven, then only finishing will correct the situation.

It is very important to protect wood from mold and mildew, regardless of the characteristics of the materials used. Manufacturers offer effective, safe, inexpensive antiseptics especially for such purposes. Additionally, you can take fire retardants, which, as the name suggests, make the texture non-flammable.

Types of finishes

Decorating a house with your own hands is not one, but several options:

• Drywall.
• Wall panels.
• Lining of different shapes.

Regardless of the specifics of the materials, it is required to install the frame on the surface. Wood has proven itself ideal. Yes, some technologies involve abandoning the frame, but the base must be perfectly flat, without chips or protrusions. Sheathing on the frame is advisable because:

• It will allow you to hide the wiring.
• Provides clearance for wall drying and air circulation.
• You don't have to make the base level.
• It is convenient to install thermal insulation materials.

It also has its own characteristics. So, there is a chance that rodents and insects will appear in the gap and you will have to take additional measures on deliverance. Wood paneling at home implies the presence of a small gap near the ceiling, this reduces the occurrence of shrinkage and deformation. The optimal width is 2-4 cm; this space can be easily hidden by installing a decorative plinth.

Sheathing using lining

Finishing using lining is a great variety. Lining guarantees an abundance of shapes, widths, and special textures depending on the type of wood. You can divide the lining based on the transverse profile into the following types:

• American.
• Landhouse.
• Blockhouse.
• Standard.
• Softline, etc.

The fastenings are also different:

• Using clamps.
• Using screws and nails at an angle.
• Nails into the face. This method is not very common because it is considered not very attractive from an aesthetic point of view.

Self-tapping screws with nails and clamps are not simple; it is necessary to fasten them and prevent deformation of the lining on the front side.

Self-tapping screws or nails are often replaced with special construction staplers with staples. This allows the use of staples with a narrow part on the “back” side and with long legs. The fastening materials are based on special metal compounds, steel with anti-corrosion treatment.

Wood is used as the basis for the lining, which means shrinkage is also relevant. If chamber drying has been carried out, the material will be of the highest quality. However, to purchase lining that has passed chamber drying, is not so simple, so many homeowners who are finishing it choose more affordable options. The following nuances need to be taken into account:

• When securing it initially, you need to remember that the cladding will have to be dismantled, so you should decide on the appropriate tools: screws or nails.
• If you follow aesthetic considerations, you can dismantle the lining and then nail it again.
• It is possible to leave the surfaces in their natural form - as is.
• If natural drying has taken place, then gaps will appear between the finishing elements.

Features of wall panels

Wall panels - a wide variety design solutions, the ability to implement projects of any complexity. Perhaps this is one of the favorite options of designers, since it does not limit imagination. If we talk about finishing a wooden house using wall panels, then you need to correctly determine the type:

• Leather.
• Plastic.
• Glass.
• Bamboo.
• Wood.

Each option has its own specifics, for example, if you choose glass, you should be especially careful and take precautions. In addition, the glass is massive, which means it has an impact on the supporting structure. If the wall fencing is miniature and thin, then it is better to abandon this option.

Features of drywall

Drywall is used very actively, it is inexpensive, lightweight, and beautiful. Nuances:

• Is not different great strength, resistance to mechanical stress. Ideally, it should be sheathed only 2 years after the construction of the object. Plus, the operating mode should be normal, with the heating on.
• When installing sheathing after 1-2 years from the date of construction, you need to install drywall on a floating frame. This significantly reduces the risk of movement of the trim and base relative to each other.

In problem areas, cracks should not open, which is achieved by gluing with a reinforcing mesh. It is inexpensive, its base is polymers, and with its help, seams, joints, and corners are reinforced.

If possible, it is better to use slats and bars made of wood. If a metal profile is taken, then waterproofing measures are taken: general rule states that if materials with excellent properties, waterproofing is required.

Old wooden buildings

If you work with old wooden houses, then you need to objectively assess the condition of the object, in particular the walls, provide additional protection, identify suspicious areas, and further examine them. A chisel, knife, and screwdriver will come in handy. The following are considered problem areas:

• The density of which is different.
• The texture of which is different.
• The area is darker or lighter than the rest.

Sometimes you have to deal with the fact that wood fibers crumble and become thinner. In such cases, it is better to consult a specialist to determine the extent of the damage. If no serious defects have been identified, then it is enough to treat the base with an antiseptic.

If you have any questions about interior decoration frame houses. Write to us.

Having completed a house made of timber, you should not think that all the most difficult work is finished. On the contrary, the most interesting things await you ahead! To create a comfortable atmosphere, you will need interior decoration of the house, which requires more detailed attention. And below you will learn how to do the interior decoration of a house made of timber with your own hands, watch training videos and photos, which will allow you to become more familiar with the process.

If you have never encountered such work before, then be prepared for the fact that this is a whole range of activities, which includes:

• laying communications (water supply, heating, electricity, sewerage);

• impregnation of wooden walls with fire-resistant compounds and antiseptics;

• waterproofing and thermal insulation of floors, walls and ceilings (if necessary);

• subfloor installation;

• installation of partitions and other structures;

• preparation of ceilings, walls, floors decorative cladding(leveling, installation of a frame for fixing the sheathing material);

• finishing walls, ceilings, floors;

• installation interior doors, lighting fixtures, switches.

Attention! If you have not previously encountered any of the above work, we recommend entrusting this important task to specialists. Despite the fact that you will spend more money than originally planned, you can be sure of the quality. First of all, this concerns communications. You can basically handle the rest of the tasks yourself.

It should be noted that interior decoration of a house made of timber with your own hands is a very important task. For this reason, before taking on it, draw up a design project where all the nuances will be spelled out. For example, the location of the electrical network, heating pipes, sewerage, etc.

It is necessary to clearly define all the points discussed above: from rough materials to decorative coatings– their type, quantity, color, cost, texture, etc.
Another important point that is worth knowing is that all wooden buildings shrink. This process should be divided into two main stages:

1. Primary shrinkage - usually continues during the first two years as a result of drying of the wood. During this period, the gaps between the beams decrease under the weight of the roof, and cracks of various sizes may form inside and outside the room. Moreover, the walls and ceiling may shrink by two to three centimeters. As a result, experts do not recommend using rigid structures (for example, plastic panels, drywall) until the shrinkage is completely completed.
2. Secondary – associated with fluctuations in temperature and humidity of wood. Usually it is insignificant and most likely will not affect the internal cladding coatings. What kind of interior decoration can a house made of timber look like in the first years after completion of construction? In this case, you should do the following:

• plaster the load-bearing structures and cover them with paints and varnishes that protect the wood from rotting and mold;

• make a two-layer subfloor;

• use a stretch fabric or leave the ceiling the same.

In any case, we will consider the most popular methods of decorating the floor, ceiling and walls - both for houses that have already shrunk and for those that are in the process of shrinking.

Finish and rough floor

Installation of subfloor

First of all, a subfloor in a home is made from timber. We recommend choosing a double floor structure - it will better conserve heat indoors.

What is a double subfloor? Special logs are made, and insulation with a waterproofing layer (for example, mineral wool) is laid between them. Next, all this is covered with boards, and then comes the finishing floor covering. This is the most economical, simple and effective option in terms of sound insulation and heat conservation.

As a rule, the following materials are used as a finishing floor covering in timber houses:

1. Planed tongue and groove board, which has a lot of advantages, of which I would like to highlight the following:

• environmentally friendly material, resistant to moisture and “breathes” (thanks to special impregnations and natural properties);
• durability and strength are another advantage of tongue and groove boards (this floor is easy and convenient to care for);
• modern variations in tinting and surface treatment allow them to harmoniously fit into almost any interior;
• If necessary, the floor covering can be updated by simply sanding the boards or scraping.

1. If an infrared or water-based “warm floor” system is used as additional heating, then you can forget about floorboard. This is because most of the heat is spent on heating the sheet pile. In this case, for laying the finished floor it is usually used parquet board or laminate.

Attention! When choosing laminate/parquet for floor heating Special attention It is worth paying attention to the marking, which should mean that this coating has good heat conductivity.

Do-it-yourself interior decoration of the walls of a timber house: video, photo

As noted above, the interior decoration of walls in such a house involves their careful preparation (insulation, puttying, vapor and moisture insulation), as well as subsequent covering with a finishing coating/material.

Before finishing the walls, answer yourself the following question: “For what purposes is the built house being used?”

If it was built to spend summer holidays and weekends there, you can save on insulation. Otherwise, it will be impossible to live here in winter.

Well, if on the contrary, then it is necessary to insulate the walls. If we talk about finishing the walls, then in this case a huge amount is offered interesting solutions. But when the house is shrinking (the first two years after completion of construction), limit yourself to varnishes, paints or simple stain.

This treatment is, first of all, notable for the fact that the natural texture of the wood is preserved. The tree itself has original patterns drawn by nature itself. What's the point of hiding all this beauty? This technique is especially effective if the walls of the house are built from valuable timber.

Attention! When choosing a good paint coating We recommend giving preference to those that contain fewer harmful substances. Modern paint It comes in semi-gloss, matte and glossy, which is also important to consider when purchasing.

In this case, if shrinkage has already occurred, the interior decoration of a house made of timber can be done with sheet materials. The most popular of them:

• plasterboard - actively used for interior work. And this is not surprising, since it allows the creation of a wide variety of architectural creations. Moreover, it has small specific gravity, easy to process and environmentally friendly material. Its price is very reasonable, despite many useful qualities. The instructions for its installation assume fastening to a wooden or metal frame, which is built on wall structures. This system is convenient in that the gypsum board and timber will not touch - this will preserve the skin and load-bearing walls from the formation of cracks. Behind such material you can hide plumbing, electrical wiring and other communications (not to mention the insulating layer).

• Isotex wall panels. As a rule, they are made from wood without glue, so they are hypoallergenic and environmentally friendly. Their advantages include sound-absorbing properties, good thermal insulation characteristics and easy installation. Linen fabrics or vinyl wallpapers. In construction stores you will definitely see a wide selection of such products, which are made in different textures and colors.

• Interior decoration walls with imitation timber - lining, siding, MDF panels, block house. Many people like Russian log huts, but they are quite expensive. For this reason, it is necessary to build from more budget material– glued or profiled timber with a rectangular cross-section.

With the help of interior decoration with imitation timber, you can give your home the missing nobility without a significant investment of time, money and effort. The application with this cladding is very difficult to distinguish from natural logs.

Among the main advantages it is worth highlighting:

• Wide range of applications - such panels can be used for both interior decoration of bathhouses and exterior cladding of buildings. Unique properties The material makes it possible to achieve high resistance to temperature changes, moisture, ultraviolet radiation and other harmful influences.

• Environmental friendliness - a favorable microclimate is always maintained in the house. Well, if you use larch or pine panels, the air in the house will become healing.
• Simplified installation - the groove fastening system facilitates cladding, and also makes the decorative coating durable and monolithic.

As you may have guessed, the interior decoration of a house made of timber can be original and varied and harmoniously combine with the chosen style of decoration of the room.

If you are planning a renovation, don’t forget about the ceiling.

In this case, you need to start from whether the shrinkage occurs during finishing work or not. If not, you can implement any ideas using a variety of materials.

• Make a suspended ceiling that will cover the ceiling hole and will not be afraid of shrinkage of the house.

• Leave the ceiling as is. It’s good if the interior matches your approach. An unlined ceiling goes well with styles such as Provence or country.

Conclusion

Any interior decoration is a complex undertaking that solves several important problems. For this reason, it must be treated especially responsibly. Only in this case will the desired comfort, coziness and warmth reign in the house.

Fashion trends in finishing a house made of timber.

1. Features of timber houses regarding finishing works.
2. Interior decoration wooden clapboard or block house.
3. Use in home decoration decorative stone.
4. Features of creation fashionable interior drywall.
5. The secret to maintaining naturalness is in the interior design.
6. What is the best way to make a floor?

Timber is one of the best solutions

which you can only choose, dreaming of beautiful and cozy home. But just a luxurious exterior is not enough; the interior of the home needs to meet the same high standard, which is why decorating a house from timber inside requires a thoughtful and subtle approach. For such a structure, it is important to achieve integrity and harmony, so not every interior style and not every material will be appropriate. Decorating a timber house inside

Modern trends in the interior design of timber houses

Today, designers offer a variety of materials that can be used for a house made of timber, without disturbing the favorable atmosphere that is characteristic of buildings made of natural materials, and without spoiling the unique microclimate that reigns in them, ensuring comfort and coziness. The most common ones include:

• natural and decorative stone;
• wooden lining and block house;
• drywall, which is then covered with the finishing material the owners like.

Modern trends are increasingly leaning towards interesting combined options. For example, covering walls with plasterboard covered with discreet background wallpaper and accenting inserts made of decorative stone. In principle, you can implement a wide variety of solutions, give free rein to your imagination, or look at options, for example, in photos presented in huge numbers on the Internet. Decorating a timber house inside

The main thing is to decide on the style. If we are talking about a spacious country cottage, then it can be done in the best “country” traditions. And if about a small country house, then wanting to arrange an unusual place for good rest both soul and body, you can give preference to Japanese traditions.

Features to consider before starting work

Regardless of what finishing materials will be used in the future, it is necessary to understand that wooden buildings have a shrinkage period, and until it ends, work on interior design It is not recommended to proceed. Shrinkage occurs in two stages:

• primary. It can last from 2 to 5 years from the completion of construction of a building made of profiled timber and a year or two if glued timber is chosen. It occurs due to the drying of the material, which gradually leads to a decrease in the volume of the beams and a decrease in the gaps between them. In total, the floor may become lower by three centimeters, which is not too noticeable in a structure without finishing and is particularly evident on surfaces lined with decorative coatings (tiles come off, cracks appear, plaster crumbles);
• secondary. It is not as pronounced as the first one, leading to serious damage decorative design most often it does not. It is caused by temperature fluctuations and humidity of the wood itself.

Before finishing the timber walls inside the house, they must be caulked. It is needed in order to provide thermal protection (prevent drafts, do not allow cold air to “enter” inside), that is, help maintain warmth and comfort in the premises. By “caulk” we mean high-quality filling with fibrous insulation (jute, tow) of all the cracks and gaps formed between the beams. Decorating a timber house inside

Decoration using a block house or wooden lining

Most used for decoration interior decoration wooden houses today are wooden lining and block houses. This is primarily explained by its closeness to the main material of the structure in terms of qualities and characteristics. This is the most harmonious solution that will allow you to be as close to nature as possible and create a unique and healthy microclimate indoors.

Finishing with timber inside the house has a number of undeniable advantages compared to other options:

• she's presentable appearance;
• she has natural beauty and charm;
• generally harmonizes with the residential ensemble;
• is absolutely environmentally friendly;
• designed for long service life;
• During operation, the material can be refreshed by opening it with varnish, and it will again acquire a spectacular and radiant appearance. In the future, no specific care is required for the varnish surface;
• has an affordable price.

By equipping the panels of the lining and the block house, which is its special variety, with a tongue-and-groove locking connection, any owner will be able to equip his home inside with his own hands. Easy installation will save you a lot of money family budget due to the fact that there is no need to involve specialists in the work and pay for their expensive labor. Finishing with imitation timber inside the house can be used for bedrooms, living rooms, halls, dining rooms, but preferably for rooms with high humidity choose a different design.

Decorative stone in the interior of wooden houses

An excellent solution can be interior decoration using decorative stone. Natural materials are in perfect harmony with each other, and the stone inserts look attractive and natural. This combination has been chosen for centuries, and today it has not lost its relevance due to many positive aspects:

• aesthetics and presentability of the interior, the ability to implement original and unusual ideas;
• high strength of the material, which is not afraid of moisture, pests, mechanical damage;
• durability;
• environmental cleanliness;
• resistance to dirt, grease, easy maintenance.

It is also possible to do the arrangement yourself, but you need to take into account that if you choose a natural stone, then perfect leveling of the surface is not necessary, and when using a simulator (decorative element), the walls must be smooth. Decorating a timber house inside

Is it appropriate to use drywall?

Realize the most daring and original ideas and apply the desired interior style, making the room cozy and comfortable, but at the same time fashionable and interesting, you can use plasterboard to decorate the inside of a wooden house made of timber. Its use can be applied to walls and ceilings, and with its help you can easily change the geometry of rooms, and the ability to arrange many installations will give you a chance not only to add an original and fashionable touch to the interior, but also to achieve ergonomics in the room.

The material is lightweight, safe for health, and inexpensive. To install it, a lathing is installed, thanks to which the drywall does not come into contact with the wood, which does not allow cracks to form in the end, and preserves both the walls and the sheathing, under which all communications (electrical wiring, water pipes, etc.) are conveniently hidden. A layer of insulation is also placed under the drywall, which is simply invaluable for living in the cold season. Decorating a timber house inside

Sheathing made of this material is especially convenient in that it allows you to implement any design ideas. Any background paint fits perfectly on sheets covered with a thin layer of plaster, and can become an interesting and fashionable accent. decorative elements from decorative stone (for example, they effectively decorate corners, highlight the wall around the fireplace) or wood (panels, etc.).

The only point: you will not be able to install drywall without outside help; you need to involve a specialist who has experience working with this durable, but at the same time fragile material.

How to design an interior that is as close to nature as possible

Often, owners leave the walls without significant changes, trying to preserve the naturalness of the structure as much as possible. Especially it concerns country cottages and small country houses which are intended for summer holidays. For residents of megacities, this is truly a great opportunity to retire to nature and protect themselves from the bustle of the city. Decorating a timber house inside

Treated wood is an excellent finish in itself, preserving everything best properties natural material and creating a unique microclimate favorable to human health, promoting internal harmony and tranquility. Along with the walls, it has become fashionable to leave them open ceiling beams from natural wood, they will become a decorative element, which is especially appropriate if Vacation home designed in country style, Provence or made to look like a “hunting lodge”.

This type of interior finishing of a house made of timber is done with your own hands and does not require special skills and professional tools. Pre-processing of all wooden surfaces antiseptics that prevent wood from rotting from contact with moisture and vapor, and also repel pests.

If there is a need to slightly tint the color of the timber, it can be coated with stain. The only caveat is that wood tends to absorb the coating well and may change its color a little more than you want, so you should test a small area of ​​the panel first. Decorating a timber house inside

Further, in order to make wood surfaces more spectacular and attractive in appearance, they are coated with varnish, which gives a mysterious shine and performs an additional protective function. Staining is also appropriate if the owners want to get a certain color scheme.

What can you do to decorate the floor?

All offered options are suitable for floor decoration. modern manufacturers floor coverings. Classical use wooden board, but at the same time it will be appropriate and in harmony both with the timber house itself and with any decoration:

• parquet;
• laminate;
• linoleum;
• ceramics;
• cork covering.

As you can see, for interior decoration timber house mass provided interesting options, all that remains is to choose which one you like.

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Self finishing timber house outside and inside

Wooden houses have always been, are, and apparently will remain for a long time perhaps the most popular buildings among private developers. Log house it is beautiful, but it is quite expensive, so most owners prefer a house made of timber. In this article I will tell you how to finish a timber house from the inside and outside, and this material is designed for those who are going to decorate the house with their own hands.

Why finish a timber house at all and when can you start work?

Most ordinary people, far from the intricacies of construction, do not understand why a wooden house might need exterior and interior decoration. After all, wood itself is a beautiful, self-sufficient material and all that can be done with it is just varnish or paint.

They are partly right, but only if we are talking about the so-called laminated veneer lumber. This building material is really very beautiful and convenient. Such beams are glued together from several layers of well-dried wood impregnated with protective compounds.

In addition, they have grooves (profiles) cut into them, which allow you to assemble the house like a construction set, by the way step-by-step instruction included with such sets. As a result, the owners receive a good-quality house without large cracks or distortions.

But the price of such a “constructor”, to put it mildly, is “biting” and therefore many people, instead of laminated veneer lumber, use ordinary, and not always well-dried, lumber. And an ordinary timber, I’ll tell you honestly, only looks good on an advertising stand in a store; as soon as you build it into the desired environmentally friendly housing, its appearance is unlikely to suit you.

Although even structures assembled from laminated veneer lumber, despite their attractive appearance, often need finishing. In order for the house to be warm, you need to either buy very thick and expensive beams, or additionally insulate the building. And this is where it comes to the rescue warm finish facade of a timber house.

We've sorted out the reasons, now let's talk about when you can start finishing work. As you know, any wooden structure shrinks over time.

If you bought a ready-made “construction set” made of laminated veneer lumber, then this indicator is minimal. IN in this case general shrinkage will continue for about 3 years, and finishing can begin in six months, maximum a year.

Monolithic, well-dried beams with cut grooves will not shrink much more, but still finishing should not begin before a year later. And in this case, such a house will need to be generously “flavored” with various kinds of protective impregnations.

The worst situation is with a simple, even beam, which at the time of construction has natural humidity. Such buildings take at least 5 to 7 years to settle. As for the start of finishing work, many craftsmen advise starting it after a year, although I always recommend letting such a house sit for at least a year and a half, and preferably 2 years.

It doesn’t matter what kind of wood you are going to build your home from, immediately after construction the box must be covered with a roof and be sure to be treated with protective impregnations, so that while shrinkage occurs the wood does not begin to deteriorate.

Existing types of finishing of a timber house

By and large, the same materials that are used for cladding a brick, block or any other structure are used to decorate a log house. But they need to be used selectively, because the external and internal cladding of wooden structures have their own specifics.

How can you get rid of timber house
Types of cladding	Characteristics
Plaster	One of the most durable cladding methods, but in this case it is extremely important that the shrinkage processes in the house are completed, otherwise any movements of the base can cause cracks and even peeling. Plaster is more suitable for older houses.
Siding	Siding panels can be plastic, metal, cement and wood. Depending on the material, the service life of such finishing ranges from 15 to 50 years. Siding has always been considered an external cladding option; I personally have not seen it installed from the inside.
Facade facing brick	Everything here is clear from the name. If the brick is of high quality, then such cladding will last for at least 50 years. As a rule, between wooden and brick wall insulation is installed. The only limitation may be the foundation; such cladding requires a wide, permanent structure.
Natural or artificial stone	Can be used both inside and outside. Although in most cases, stone finishing of wooden buildings on the outside is limited only to the base. Plus, natural stone has a solid mass and requires the construction of an appropriate foundation.
Different types of lining	Lining is a universal material; it can be used everywhere. Modern planks have a tongue-and-groove connection and are installed quite simply. In our case, finishing with false timber is best suited; in fact, this cladding is one of the types of lining; in some sources it may be called a block house; for a timber house this is the best option.
Varnishing or painting	This type of wood processing can also be considered universal. But, as you understand, we are not talking about insulation here, so varnishing or painting is more often used as an interior decoration, although in the case of wooden lining such processing can also be performed on the outside.
Tile	In this case, tiles are more relevant for interior cladding of services in the house. From the outside, it can only be used to decorate the basement and porch.
Drywall	Drywall is convenient facing material, but it can only be used for interior work.

Facade cladding

Naturally, the first thing that interests home craftsmen is how to decorate the outside of a log house. Since our priority is to install the cladding with our own hands, then it is better to forget about such things as brick, plaster and natural stone right away; without experience you are unlikely to cope with such work.

All we have left is varnishing and ventilated façade technology. In this case, ventilated facade technology should be understood as the installation of siding and all types of lining. It’s not for nothing that I combined all this; the fact is that the instructions in all these cases are similar.

Before you begin finishing any wooden structure, you should once again caulk all the cracks both outside and inside the house. First, hemp or jute is pushed into the joint, and the gap is closed from above with a special sealant. By the way, this sealant was created specifically for these purposes and no other sealant will fit here.

Ventilated facade technology

In my deep conviction, for beginning craftsmen, a ventilated facade is, if not the only, then certainly one of the most acceptable options for finishing a wooden house.

This type of façade is called ventilated because a gap is left between the finishing cladding and the base, and insulation can fit into this gap. But first things first.

• Since in any case the walls of the house themselves will not be visible, there is no need to clean, sand and level them; it is enough to simply caulk and seal the cracks between them. True, some masters insist on such processing, but I believe that this is unnecessary. But protective treatment in this case is mandatory, and there is no need to skimp on impregnations;
• There is nothing complicated in such processing, just buy a composition for biological protection of wood (antiseptic) and a composition for fire protection (fire retardant), take a paint roller or a wide brush and apply everything in layers, while allowing each layer to dry.
  Ideally, all protective compounds should be applied before the construction of the house begins, so that the timber is protected over the entire area, but if for some reason this was not done or you are finishing an old house, then you can impregnate the finished structure;

It is better to take professional impregnations with comprehensive protection, now the price for them is reasonable, homemade liquids are folk recipes are no longer relevant, plus the quality of homemade products is an order of magnitude lower.

• When the impregnations have dried, a vapor barrier membrane is attached to the wooden wall. In general, it is pressed against the sheathing strips, but for me it’s easier to shoot it with a stapler first, so you can do without helpers. And don’t forget, steam moves from the room to the street; if you fill the membrane incorrectly, condensation will form under it (such a fabric always has marks indicating the vapor-permeable side);
• Next you will need to lay the sheathing on the wall. If on block houses the sheathing is most often made from metal UD and CD profiles, then for wooden walls it is better to use wooden blocks, they are much easier to work with. The thickness of such a bar must be at least 40 mm, and the width is selected according to the thickness of the insulation;

• The top cut of the sheathing should be in the same plane. Even if it seems to you that your walls are smooth, it is better to be safe. The first 2 outer bars are attached to the wall, then 2 - 3 cords are pulled between them and the remaining bars of the sheathing are placed along these cords.
  If the next plank protrudes beyond the cord, then it needs to be corrected with a plane, and when it does not reach the cord, a wedge is placed. The planks themselves are screwed to the wall with long self-tapping screws;
• As for the step between the planks, it is considered that the thicker and stronger the finishing, the wider the step can be taken, the maximum is 70 cm. But personally, under any material, I install the lathing in steps of half a meter or along the width of the insulation;

• Siding panels, as a rule, are attached to a vertical sheathing, but under the lining the sheathing should be installed perpendicular to the direction of laying the planks. The only exception is the diagonal laying of the lining; it is attached to a vertical sheathing. Although I don’t advise you to undertake diagonal installation, firstly, there is 30% more waste, and secondly, this requires experience;
• As insulation for wooden structures usually mineral wool is used. The fact is that wood must breathe and it is undesirable to clog it with polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam. Of course, you can take any cotton wool, but soft glass wool and the like will cake within 2 to 3 years, so it’s better to pay a little more and install dense mineral wool slabs. Now is the time high quality for basalt cotton slabs;
• Thickness of cotton insulation for middle zone of our great and mighty homeland varies around 100 mm. Naturally than north region, the thicker the insulation needs to be;

When cutting cotton slabs, make the width 20 - 30 mm larger than the distance between the sheathing guides. This way your insulation will fit tightly, without gaps, between the bars.

• Cotton wool cannot be left unprotected, it is afraid of humidity, so we attach the so-called wind protection on top, in fact it is the same vapor barrier;
• The wind protection is fixed to the guides with a counter-lattice, but for convenience it is better to attach it first with a stapler;
• The counter-lattice strips provide the same gap, plus it is on them that the finishing cladding is attached. For lining I usually use 30x40 mm bars, there is no point in taking smaller ones, they will split from nails, but for a heavy block house or siding under a counter-lattice it is better to take 50x50 mm bars;

• Nowadays, any type of lining is installed using clamps, these are small plates with a protruding tongue. The tongue clings to the edge of the groove, and the plate is nailed or screwed to the counter-lattice;
• The siding is fixed with screws with wide heads. The panels have special fastening holes, so the self-tapping screw must be driven clearly into the center of the hole and not tightened all the way, the panel on one side should hang on the screws, and the lower part clings to the groove of the previous panel.

Rules for wood varnishing

The technique of applying varnish and painting is practically no different. Initially, you will need to thoroughly sand the surface. If the laminated veneer lumber is already well processed, then you will have to tinker with the regular one.

You start processing with coarse sandpaper and gradually work your way up to fine-grained sandpaper. With such volumes, it is very difficult to do this manually, so it is better to get a grinder.

By the way, before varnishing or painting, the wood will also need to be treated with protective impregnations.

If your plans include changing the color, then the surface is treated with stain. Next, let the wood dry and apply the first coat of varnish. After it dries, no matter how well you sand the timber, the pile will inevitably rise on it and the surface will become rough.

To remove lint, use fine sandpaper. Moreover, there is no need to sand particularly hard; the lint is removed with a few light movements, after which the dust should be wiped off with a damp rag.

From experience I can say that one finishing layer of varnish is not enough, there should be at least 3 such layers, although in order to achieve a perfectly varnished surface, sometimes you have to apply up to 5 - 7 layers of varnish.

After sanding, do not delay the application of varnish. In order for the wood to look decent and the varnish to adhere well, it must be applied within 3 to 4 days.

Regarding the type of varnish, I will say this. Now many people recommend acrylic varnishes on a water-dispersed basis, it is believed that the wood under them breathes, they are of course high quality, but they are quite expensive.

Personally, I prefer to use yacht varnish (urethane-alkyd), it is durable and withstands all the vagaries of the weather. Now the price of urethane-alkyd varnishes for exterior use starts at about 400 rubles per liter jar.

Decorating the house from the inside

It is impossible to answer briefly the question of how to decorate the inside of a timber house; it all depends on what exactly you are going to cover. Plus, the type of room plays a big role; you must admit, the decoration in the living room and in the bathroom are significantly different.

Floor and ceiling cladding

Cladding the floor and ceiling in a house made of timber are two adjacent directions, because the ceiling, in fact, is either an interfloor ceiling or a floor attic space. Therefore, it is impossible to consider them separately.

The floor itself wooden house can be based on floor joists or installed directly on monolithic iron concrete slab, while the difference in finishing technology is small, but it still exists.

Massive wooden joists are a good basis for the design. Naturally, in order for the floor to be warm, it will need to be insulated. There is a small nuance here.

If it is better to insulate the walls of a wooden house with mineral wool slabs, then foam plastic is more suitable for the floor and interfloor ceilings. You can, of course, buy extruded polystyrene foam, but I believe that in this particular case, ordinary PSB-S25 foam is more suitable, the effect is the same, and such foam costs at least 2 times less. I usually buy 50mm thick foam boards.

Let's start with arranging the floor on suspended logs. After the logs have been treated with protective impregnations, you need to build a subfloor in their lower part. There are several methods here, I will tell you about the method that I use myself.

First, on the sides of the lower cut of the log, cranial bars with a cross section of 50x50 mm are packed; they will become the base for the rough flooring. Next, planed boards with a thickness of about 20–30 mm are laid on these bars in even rows.

There will be a constant pull of moisture from the ground, so both the skull beam and the planks of the rough flooring must be well impregnated with protective compounds.

I use creosote for this; they used to impregnate railway sleepers with it. In a residential area, such impregnation is undesirable, but it is perfect for a subfloor. But this is a personal matter, you can take any impregnation you like.

The subfloor slats are cut exactly to size and laid on the skull beam; they, of course, can be nailed, but I don’t see much point in this, they won’t go anywhere anyway.

Now a continuous layer of technical polyethylene is laid over the entire room, with a sheet of technical polyethylene wrapped around the log and fixed with a stapler. It will protect from moisture, plus even if there are cracks left somewhere, there will be no air blowing through them.

Polystyrene foam itself does not allow moisture to pass through, so there is no point in installing any kind of hydro or vapor barrier on top. If there are large cracks left somewhere, don’t worry, they can be blown out with foam.

For a wooden house, the best and simplest option, in my opinion, is to install a floorboard. For this, planed tongue and groove boards with a thickness of 40 mm or more are used. In order not to spoil the appearance of nail heads on the floorboard, the planks can be fixed using clamps or hammering nails into the lower part of the groove of the board.

To install parquet, laminate and other newfangled coverings, you will need to make a durable monolithic flooring. In such cases, I sew plywood of the FK brand with a thickness of 10 - 12 mm in 2 layers, and the joints between the layers should not coincide.

Some craftsmen install OSB flooring, but I haven’t tried it, so I can’t say anything about it. The only thing I definitely don’t recommend doing is using chipboard sheets to lay out the base on the floor; at the slightest humidity they will swell and begin to peel off.

If a wooden house is built on a concrete slab, then there is less work. You need to cover the concrete with plastic sheeting overlapping the walls. After this, install logs with a cross-section of 50x50 mm and lay foam plastic between them, and sew a finished floor on top using any of the technology described above.

As for the ceiling, the easiest way is to hem the lining from below to the joists. On the side of the second floor or attic, cover everything with technical polyethylene, insert foam plastic between the joists and arrange the floor in the attic or on the second floor.

Both in the attic and in the interfloor ceiling it is necessary to lay some kind of sound insulator; the cheapest option is to take polystyrene foam, but no one is stopping you from using, for example, mineral wool or expanded clay.

Now it is fashionable to leave the load-bearing beams on the ceiling open. The depth of such a beam usually fluctuates around 200 mm. In this case, I stuff a skull beam along the entire length approximately in the middle of the beam and hem the lining to it. Next, as usual, polyethylene, insulation and finishing coating of the second floor.

There is, of course, a multi-level plasterboard ceiling and a suspended ceiling. But the installation of multi-level plasterboard structures requires some experience, and stretch ceilings are quite expensive and, without having the knowledge and special tools, I do not recommend undertaking their installation at all.

Arrangement of walls from the inside

As I already said, finishing the inside of the house with false timber is a priority method, because the house, after all, is made of timber and in this case we are simply correcting visual defects in the supporting structure.

False timber is the same lining, only larger in size. In theory, if the walls are smooth, then you can sew the cladding directly onto the walls, but believe me, it is better to put sheathing on the walls and install false beams on it. In this gap you can hide electrical wiring and communications.

The cross-section of the sheathing bars depends on how much clearance you need. For arranging only electrical wiring, a 30x40 mm block is sufficient. But if you want to hide, for example, heating pipes, you will have to take a block with a cross-section of 50x50 mm or even larger. Of course, with such an installation, useful internal space is lost, but you have to put up with it, otherwise there is no other way.

And do not forget that electrical wiring in wooden structures must be well protected. All wires must be inserted into a metal hose. Now corrugated plastic tubes are sold for these purposes; they, of course, are considered self-extinguishing and cost less than metal hoses, but mice can easily chew through plastic.

Insulation of a wooden house from the inside is installed only in exceptional cases and is extremely rare. The thing is that with external insulation, the dew point is in the insulation, and if you install the insulation inside the house, it will be in the wooden walls, which will inevitably lead to their freezing.

The second most popular method of interior finishing of a log house is plasterboard. Drywall is especially relevant in services and in the kitchen. True, for wet rooms you need to buy sheets with appropriate protection (moisture resistant).

In a wooden house, I prefer to install drywall not on a traditional metal frame, but on a wooden sheathing. Or screw the sheets directly to the walls, but this can only be done if all the wiring is already installed in the walls.

I have already told you how to fill the sheathing; for plasterboard, the spacing of the planks is selected in the region of 30 - 40 cm. The sheets themselves are screwed to the base with self-tapping screws, the heads of the screws should be slightly recessed into the sheet. But you can’t leave drywall clean; it needs to be puttied.

The technology here is not complicated. All joints between the sheets will need to be slightly widened with a knife; the groove should be approximately half the depth of the sheet, otherwise the putty will not adhere well. Next, prime the sheet, and when it dries, glue serpyanka (reinforcing fiberglass mesh) onto the expanded joints.

Now get divorced finishing putty and finish the sheet with it. You start by filling the joints and caulking the screws. When these areas are dry, take a wide metal spatula and apply a 1-2 mm layer of putty over the entire plane of the sheet.

If you plan to cover the plasterboard with tiles, then the entire wall will need to be reinforced with sickle before puttying. If you were unable to buy a self-adhesive serpyanka, then take PVA glue and glue the mesh onto it.

When finishing drywall for wallpaper, you can do without reinforcement, you just need to lightly sand the putty with emery. To paint, putty walls will have to be sanded to perfection. That is, start with coarse sandpaper and end with fine sandpaper.

Often inside a log house or in the basement area, fragmentary finishing with natural or artificial stone. This coating is quite heavy, plus there is a possibility of the base moving, so the base needs to be strengthened well.

After treatment with protective compounds and primer, a galvanized metal mesh is attached to the wooden wall. I usually use a chain-link and secure it with self-tapping screws, onto which I additionally put wide washers.

Most often, tile adhesive is used to install stone, but here it is better to consult a consultant, the fact is that special adhesives are produced for some minerals.

Previously, a reinforced wooden base was covered with a layer of cement-sand mortar, after which it was slightly leveled with a trowel and the stone was already laid on such a base.

Now, instead of cement-sand mortar, craftsmen use the above-mentioned tile adhesive; it costs more, but the reliability and quality are much higher. By the way, glue must be applied not only to the base, but also to the stone itself. Installation of such cladding is carried out from the bottom up, with a support strip attached at the bottom.

Conclusion

October 28, 2016

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The interior finishing of the house is carried out at the final stage of construction. How beautiful and cozy the interior will be depends on this. This process is quite complex and requires certain skills and knowledge when working with various types finishing materials.

Methods of interior decoration of a house

The largest surface area of ​​any interior is the walls. If the surface of the timber has many flaws, it is better to hide them. There are several ways to do this: painting, cladding with clapboard made of natural wood or MDF and DSP boards. Plasterboard sheathing is also used. The option for interior wall decoration depends not only on the condition of the surfaces of the timber from which the walls are made, but also on the designer’s intentions and the personal preferences of the home owners.

If the floor in the house is wooden, it is better not to cover it with any flooring material. Firstly, this will only hide the natural beauty of the wood, and secondly, it will not allow it to “breathe”, which can lead to its damage. It is better to sand and paint a wooden floor. But if there are too large gaps between the floorboards, and the quality of the surface of the boards leaves much to be desired, it is necessary to use putty. If you definitely decide to cover the wooden floor with linoleum or any other floor covering– it is necessary to provide for the presence of ventilation ducts under the floor, in the basement of the building. Laminate flooring is laid only if the base surface is perfectly flat and durable.

The same goes for the ceiling: the log floor is finished in the same way as a wooden floor. But if its surface is unsightly, it can be covered with plasterboard or any other sheet material, which is then puttied, after which it can be painted or covered with wallpaper.

Both the ceiling and walls of a house made of timber can be finished using a block house - a decorative lining resembling a rounded log. This method is not only aesthetically attractive, but also goes well with the main building material, from which walls and ceilings are constructed.

Painting is the most common method

Often the walls of a timber house are painted from the inside with opaque dyes. This method of processing wood not only decorates its surface, but also protects it from the effects of moisture contained in the air, and therefore from fungus and mold. Before painting, the walls of the house are puttied to hide chips, cracks and knots, and then covered with primer: this is necessary to prepare the surface for painting.
When choosing paint for the interior, you should give preference to one that contains as few substances as harmful to health. The paint comes with matte surface, glossy and semi-gloss - this is also taken into account when choosing it.

If the quality of the surface of the timber does not require special treatment, stain or special transparent varnishes are used to paint the walls, emphasizing the natural grain of the wood. This technique is especially effective if the walls of the house are made of valuable timber.

Cement particle board and plasterboard are used for this. The latter is the most popular because it has a low specific gravity, is easy to process and is an environmentally friendly material.

For plasterboard cladding, first install a sheathing made of wooden slats or metal profile. You can hide various communications behind the sheet material: water supply, pipes heating system, electrical wiring. If necessary, insulation can be placed in the cavity between the base and the sheet material.

Basic rules for decorating the interior of a house made of timber

When finishing a house built from timber, it is necessary to treat its internal surfaces taking into account the structure of the wood and its ability to absorb odors. Decoration Materials must protect it from mechanical damage, mold, and insects.

If the wood has been treated with a glossy protective compound, then coating it with a glossy dye will double the shine. Therefore, before applying protective coating It is necessary to make a test sample.

Wood, depending on the method of its mechanical processing, can perceive impregnation differently. In order for different sections of the walls to look the same, it is necessary to use the same method of processing them. To achieve the desired result, the paint must be applied at least twice.

If everything is done correctly, repairs will not be needed soon and the house will delight the owners with a cozy interior for a long time.