Then aboveground part dies, and the bulb “rests” for almost six months in the soil, fairly heated by the hot southern sun. During this period of external dormancy, shoot primordia with leaves and inflorescence and primordia of daughter bulbs are formed inside the bulb. The soil here does not freeze even in winter. In conditions middle zone for normal formation vegetative organs and next year's inflorescences, it is advisable to dig up hyacinth bulbs annually and maintain them until autumn at a certain temperature. Without this, flowering weakens already in the second year, and then completely disappears.

The feeding area of ​​a hyacinth bulb is 15 x 20 cm. The planting depth from the bottom of the bulbs is 15-18 cm for collapsible, large bulbs with a diameter of about 5 cm. For hyacinths, as for all bulbous plants, planting in a “sand jacket” is highly desirable: clean river sand is poured into the bottom of the groove or hole in a layer of 3-5 cm. The bulb is lightly pressed into it, then covered with sand, and then with soil. This technique will prevent rotting of the bottoms of the bulbs, protect against infection in the soil, and improve drainage. If the soil is dry, the plantings need to be watered to improve rooting of the bulbs.

With the onset of persistent cold weather. To do this, you can use dry peat, humus, sawdust, dry fallen leaves and spruce branches. In the spring, as soon as the soil begins to thaw, the cover must be carefully removed, since hyacinths sprout very early.

The most important thing in caring for hyacinths is feeding. The first of them is applied immediately after the sprouts appear, using ammonium nitrate (20-30 g per 1 sq.m.). After the appearance of buds per 1 sq. m. add 20 g ammonium nitrate, 40 g of superphosphate and 30 g of potassium chloride. After flowering - 40 g of superphosphate and 40 g of potassium chloride or potassium magnesia per 1 sq.m.

Hyacinths reproduce by bulbs, baby bulbs and bulbous scales. The seed method is used only when breeding new varieties, since seedlings do not repeat external signs parents and bloom only after 5-7 years.

Hyacinth is a bulbous plant that can be successfully grown both in the garden and at home. Therefore, many amateur gardeners want to grow this flower on their windowsill so that they can admire it even in winter, during the cold season. Such a desire is quite feasible. However for successful cultivation The hyacinth needs to create appropriate conditions that are as reminiscent of garden conditions as possible, and provide it with proper care.

Preparing to grow hyacinth at home

To date, breeders have developed several dozen varieties of hyacinth. And most of them are suitable for growing at home. But in order to grow strong and beautiful flower you need to prepare properly:

1. Bulb selection. First you need to select suitable material for planting. It is recommended to use bulbs with a diameter of at least 5 cm. Because it is easier to grow a full-fledged plant from a large bulb. A small bulb may throw out leaves, but not produce flowers. In addition, you need to make sure that it is dense, without rot or damage. And immediately before planting, it is advisable to treat it with a disinfectant solution.
2. Choosing a pot. Then you need to select the appropriate pot. It should be wide and shallow. The pot must have drainage holes.
3. Soil preparation. You can buy soil or prepare it yourself. To do this, you need to mix turf, compost, leaf soil, humus in equal proportions and add a large number of sand and .

When growing hyacinth at home, there is one caveat - this flower cannot bloom for several years in a row. Flowering is stimulated by artificial forcing, which weakens the bulbs. Therefore, after 1–2 years they need to be planted in the garden so that they go through a recovery period.

Planting and caring for hyacinths indoors

After preparation necessary materials, you can start planting the bulbs. Proper planting and care of hyacinths in room conditions include the following steps:

• A drainage layer is laid on the bottom of the pot; expanded clay is well suited for these purposes.
• Cover with a small layer of soil.
• Then a thin layer of fine sand is placed.
• Bulbs are placed on top of the sand. You can plant one bulb in a pot, or several, so that during flowering a whole bouquet is formed. In the latter case, the bulbs are laid out so that they do not come into contact with each other or with the pot (the optimal distance is 2–3 cm).
• The bulbs are carefully pressed into the ground and covered with the remaining soil. The top of the soil can be sprinkled with a thin layer of sand to protect the planting material from rotting.

The bulbs are not completely immersed in the soil; their tops must remain in the air.

Now the plants are given a period of rest so that the bulbs take root well. The pot is placed for 1.5–2.5 months in a dark and cool place, for example, in a basement. The air temperature in this room should be from +5 to +10 degrees. If there is no basement or cellar, flowers can be placed in the refrigerator. However, be sure to ensure that the temperature in it is at least 5 degrees Celsius. During this period, it is necessary to monitor the condition of the soil to prevent it from drying out.

A dormant period is necessary for the successful cultivation of hyacinths indoors. If the plant is brought out into the light earlier, it may still be weak, develop poorly and, as a result, not bloom. It is also not recommended to keep it in the dark. The plant will throw out its leaves, all its strength will go into them, and as a result the formation of buds will be delayed.

After the bulbs have rooted, an artificial spring is arranged for the hyacinths; for this, the flowers are moved into the house. Here hyacinths should be kept in a bright room, with a recommended air temperature of +10–15 degrees.

As soon as the plant begins to bloom, it is transferred to desired room, and place it away from radiators. In order for hyacinth to delight its owners with lush, luxurious flowers for a long time, the air temperature should not be higher than +20 degrees. In addition, it is necessary to exclude the existence of drafts and provide the plant good lighting.

How to care for hyacinth at home?

To grow lush, beautiful flowers, you need to take care of them. How to care for hyacinth at home so that it blooms as quickly as possible and pleases its owners with beautiful flowers for a long time?

Caring for hyacinth is relatively simple and includes three mandatory components:

• watering;
• good lighting;
• fertilizer.

Watering. The basis for caring for hyacinth indoors is proper care. The soil must be moist, so you must carefully ensure that it does not dry out and water the plant in a timely manner. This requirement is important during growth, flowering and wintering. However, stagnation of water is also destructive for this plant and can provoke fungal infection. Therefore, you need to make sure that excess water goes into the pan, and be sure to drain it from there.

During watering, you only need to moisten the soil and make sure that water does not get on the buds, bulbs or in the axils of the leaves. To do this, it is recommended to pour water into the edge of the pot or tray.

Good lighting. From time to time it is necessary to turn the flower to the lighting from different sides. This promotes uniform plant growth. In the evening and on cloudy days, you can additionally highlight the plant using fluorescent lamps. If there is insufficient lighting, the plant may wither, shed leaves and young buds.

Forcing hyacinths at home

A nice feature of hyacinth is the ability to combine its flowering with a certain period or holiday. For this purpose, hyacinths are forced out at home. It comes in three types:

• early - the bulbs are planted in October, and the hyacinth blooms by the New Year;
• medium - planting is carried out in November, and flowering occurs at the end of January - beginning of February;
• late - the bulbs are planted in December - January and the flowers are admired in March - April.

The period from planting to flowering averages 2.5–3 months.

For successful forcing of hyacinths at home, the bulbs must go through several stages of preparation with a gradual decrease in air temperature. After digging, they should be stored for 2 weeks in a warm and humid place with an air temperature of +28–30 degrees. Then for 2 weeks they are placed in a cool room with a temperature of +22–25 degrees. Further, for 2 weeks even colder conditions are created - +15–17 degrees. And after this, the bulbs are ready to be planted in a pot.

What to do after hyacinth blooms?

Like all flowering plants, hyacinth fades over time. What to do with hyacinth after flowering at home? To save its life, it is necessary to cut off the flower stalks and not stop watering and fertilizing the plant until the leaves completely wither. At this time, the mother bulb is restored and can form daughter bulbs.

Then you need to remove the hyacinth from the ground, clean off the withered leaves and put the bulb to dry for 2-3 days. If after digging up the bulb the children are already well developed, you can separate them. If they are difficult to disconnect, it is better not to touch them until next year. Since it is advisable not to use faded bulbs for re-forcing, they are transplanted to garden plot. Planting is carried out in the fall, and next year they will already delight the owners with flowers in the flowerbed.

To obtain bulbs that can be used for indoor growing, the plant is not allowed to bloom normally. The buds are cut off so that the bulb can recover. In the fall, it is taken out of the ground, dried and the forcing procedure is carried out again.

Propagation of hyacinths at home

Hyacinth reproduces by children (daughter bulbs), which are carefully detached from the adult bulb. Natural division occurs slowly; in one year, the mother bulb can form a maximum of 4 children. Therefore, in floriculture, an artificial method of propagating hyacinths at home is used. To quickly get a large number of children, they practice special techniques - cutting and notching the bottom.

Before artificial propagation begins, the bulbs are treated with a 1% solution of potassium permanganate and dried at an air temperature of +20–23 degrees for 2–3 days.

Cutting the bottom. This technique is carried out after a period of rest. Using a teaspoon, carefully cut out the bottom of the bulbs, then store them in boxes with the cut side up at an air temperature of at least +21 degrees. After 2–3 months, small babies in the amount of 20–40 pieces begin to form on the sections.

After the babies appear, the bulb is planted in a cool greenhouse. Young bulbs begin to grow and throw out their first leaves. After the growing season, they are taken out of the ground, separated and planted for growing. After 3-4 years, the ripened bulbs throw out their first flower stalks.

Notching the bottom. This method is similar to the previous one, with the difference that the bottom is not cut out, but 2–4 cuts 0.5–0.6 cm deep are made in it. Processing and storage conditions are the same as in the first method. The number of children with this method decreases (8–15 pieces), but they will be larger and stronger. The growing period in this case is reduced to 2–3 years.

The process of growing hyacinths at home is not at all difficult, but very fruitful. To successfully complete it you need to have a great desire and a little patience. And, of course, follow all the rules and recommendations that relate to planting and caring for hyacinths indoors.

How to grow hyacinths at home - video

Hyacinth is one of the most charming plants, used both to decorate the garden and to grow indoors. This flower, easy to plant and care for, exudes a delicate, wonderful aroma, giving spring mood. At the same time, you can make it bloom even in winter by creating the necessary conditions.

Hyacinth: origin, appearance and main properties

The genus Hyacinth belongs to the Asparagus family, whose representatives are distributed in the regions of Central Asia and the Eastern Mediterranean, namely in the Balkans, Syria and Turkey.

The name primrose is translated from Greek as “flower of rain.”

Hyacinth is a perennial herbaceous ephemeroid (a plant with a very short growing season). The time of its growth, flowering and fruiting occurs in the spring, and during the period of hot summer, cool autumn and frosty winter, the development of the flower stops.

The large, dense hyacinth bulb has a rounded shape and is covered with thin filmy scales. Leaf blades are elongated.

Feature of the plant: during flowering, the size of the leaves is relatively short, and after the peduncle dies, they grow up to 20 cm.

The bell-shaped flowers are decorated with thin and gracefully curved petals. The buds are numerous; on one racemose inflorescence they can bloom from 12 to 35 or more pieces. IN wildlife The corolla of hyacinth is usually painted blue or white, and the range of varietal flowers is very wide.

Popular varieties

Hybridizers have developed a huge number of varieties with large flowers and an intoxicating aroma, differing in the size of the inflorescences, color, height of the peduncle, and flowering time. The most common ones include:

1. Royal Navy. Variety with deep double flowers violet shade.
2. Brooklyn. A variety with white-yellow-cream flowers with a darker center.
3. Raphael. Distinctive feature varieties have semi-open flowers with narrow elongated petals.
4. Rosalia. Flowers of this variety bright hyacinth Pink colour.
5. Ostara. Feature varieties - bright purple inflorescences and a fairly long flowering period (about three weeks).
6. Woodstock. Purple-lilac hyacinth with large inflorescence.
7. Midnight Mystique. The variety is a find of the last decade. Its characteristic feature is the original flowers, almost black in color.
8. Carnegie. A variety with magnificent snow-white flowers.
9. Fondant. Elegant pink hyacinth, whose petals are cast with mother-of-pearl.
10. Orange Boven. The variety boasts salmon-apricot flowers with a yellow throat and dark pink perianth tips.

Photo gallery: varietal diversity of hyacinths

The Royal Navy variety is a hyacinth with double flowers of a rich purple hue. The Brooklyn variety is a delicate hyacinth with yellowish-colored flowers with a darker center. A distinctive feature of the Raphael variety is semi-open flowers with narrow elongated petals. The flowers of the Rosalia hyacinth variety are bright pink. A characteristic feature of the Ostara variety is bright purple inflorescences and a fairly long flowering period Woodstock variety - purple-lilac hyacinth with large inflorescences
Characteristic feature varieties Midnight Mystery have original flowers of almost black color. Variety Carnegie - fragrant hyacinth with magnificent snow-white flowers
Fondant - elegant pink hyacinth, the petals of which are shimmering with mother-of-pearl. The Orange Boven variety boasts salmon-apricot flowers with a yellow throat and dark pink tips of the perianths

Optimal conditions for hyacinth in spring-winter and summer-autumn: table

Season	Lighting	Humidity	Temperature
Winter spring	Hyacinth is a lover of bright sunlight; for longer flowering it needs lighting for 15 hours a day, therefore, when kept in an apartment in autumn and winter, the plant should be illuminated with lamps daylight. The best location option is windows facing southwest or south.	Additional humidity is not needed; the flower develops well in indoor conditions. It is not recommended to spray hyacinth, especially during the flowering period, since additional moisture can cause the death of the flower.	20–22 o C. It is important to protect the flower from drafts and keep it away from radiators.
Summer autumn	Requires a dark place. You can also cover the bulb with a thick cloth.	Excessive moisture is detrimental to the bulb.	After flowering ends, it is necessary to dry the bulb at a temperature of 22–25 o C, and then provide cool conditions (5–9 o C).

Planting hyacinth and features of forcing a flower in an apartment

IN natural conditions Hyacinth is a primrose that blooms in mid to late spring. But indoors, flowering can be significantly accelerated and the plant can be made to bloom by any date, for example, Christmas, New Year or March 8th. To do this, the bulbs are brought out of the “sleep” state by creating certain conditions. The process is called "forcing". Hyacinths yield to it quite easily. Luxurious fragrant flowers are easy to obtain at home.

There are two ways to grow hyacinth: in substrate or in water. The following composition is suitable as a soil mixture:

• garden soil;
• peat;
• sand.

All components must be taken in equal quantities and mixed thoroughly so that the result is a light and loose substrate. Hyacinth also requires good drainage; it can be made from pieces of broken brick or expanded clay.

Choosing a pot

The container should be small the best option will use pots with a diameter of 1.5 times the size of the bulb. You can also use wider bowls if you plan to plant several plants in one bowl. In this case, select the container size planting material, the bulbs should be positioned so that there is a distance of about two centimeters between them.

There is no need to replant hyacinth bought in a store. The flower can only be covered with a paper cap to make the peduncle larger.

How to expel hyacinth in the ground: preparatory stage

1. Select large, healthy bulbs that are more than 5 cm in diameter. They are usually well-ripened, meaning that the flower buds have had time to form well and accumulate a sufficient number of nutrients for excellent flowering.
2. Keep the bulbs intended for forcing for about a week in a dry room. During this time they will ripen.
3. Place a layer of drainage in the prepared container, pour coarse sand on it, which will protect the planting material from rotting.
4. Fill the container with the prepared substrate.
5. Plant a hyacinth bulb in the soil mixture, burying it half to two-thirds of the way.
6. Water the soil lightly; the soil should not be soggy, otherwise rotting will begin.
7. Cover the pot with dark material, since the rooting process must take place in the dark.
8. Transfer the pot with the planted bulb to a cool room with a temperature of 5–9 o C. You can place it on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator intended for storing vegetables, or take it out to the balcony.

Forcing hyacinths planted in the ground

1. When the hyacinth leaves grow 8–10 cm, remove the dark cloth from the pot, move it to a bright place and start watering the plant. Thus, the time for forcing the peduncle begins, which takes 3–4 weeks. Based on this, you can predict the flowering time. For example, to get flowering for the New Year, you need to remove the hyacinth from a cool and dark place in early December.
2. The hyacinth temperature during this period should be from 10 to 20 o C. At a higher temperature, flowering will be short.
3. Accustom the plant to the temperature in the room gradually, since if conditions change abruptly, the flower will begin to grow leaves to the detriment of flowering.
4. During this period, hyacinth needs to reduce daylight hours, since in bright light the peduncle will grow short. To do this, gardeners use a cap made of dark paper or cover the plant with an opaque plastic glass (first for the whole day, then half, and then for part of the day). It is recommended to use this simple device until the peduncle rises above the leaf blades.
5. When the hyacinth begins to bloom, you can remove the cap and enjoy the flowering of the plant.

At home, hyacinth blooms for about two weeks, however, if the flower pot is moved to a cool place overnight, this period can be extended for another seven days.

An effective option: how to properly expel bulbs in water

Manufacturers often use the method of forcing hyacinth in water. You can try growing hyacinth at home this way.

1. Until September, keep the bulb at a temperature of about 25 o C.
2. Select a container that tapers at the top to about 4 cm. Small vases or special vessels for forcing hyacinths are suitable for this.
3. Place a few pieces of charcoal on the bottom to help prevent rotting. To prevent it from floating, add a layer of coarse sand on top.
4. Pour water into the flowerpot. To force hyacinth, it is advisable to use soft water: rain or melt water.
5. Place the bulb on the neck of the container so that the distance between the bottom and the surface of the water is 1–2 cm.
6. Wrap the container with the onion in dark paper and store it in a dark and cool room with a temperature of 4–8°C.
7. Periodically inspect the bulb and add water.
8. After about two months, long roots will develop and leaf blades and inflorescences will begin to grow. At this time, you need to move the flower to a bright, warm place with a temperature of 22–25°C.

Please note that a growing hyacinth requires very good lighting, otherwise the peduncle will become very elongated and will grow thin and weak.

Forcing flowers for certain dates (New Year, March 8, etc.)

If you plan to have charming hyacinths bloom on a special date, then you should plan the stages of forcing the flower in advance.

1. In order for magnificent flowers with a delicate aroma to bloom for the New Year, it is necessary to begin the preparatory stage of forcing in the middle of summer. In July, the bulbs are removed from the soil, cleared of soil and stored for two weeks at a temperature of about 25–30 o C and high humidity(approximately 90%).
2. After this, the temperature of the bulb is reduced to 20–25 o C and kept under such conditions for about two more weeks.
3. Closer to September, the planting material is transferred to a cool place with a temperature of 10–13 o C. At this point preparatory stage The forcing of hyacinth ends by the New Year, and the immediate process begins in October, when the bulbs, after a rest period, are planted in pots.
4. If you want the hyacinth to bloom in February, then forcing should begin two weeks later, in mid-October. The flower will bloom in March if the bulbs are planted in the ground or placed in water in early November.

Video: hyacinth forcing technology

How to care for hyacinth

Hyacinth cannot grow at home for several years. The bulb is forced once. At this time, it loses a lot of strength and it is unlikely that it will be possible to achieve excellent flowering again. After forcing, the bulb can be planted in the garden.

Watering and fertilizing

Hyacinth is a moisture-loving flower. The plant must be watered regularly, after the top layer of soil has dried. In this case, it is recommended to pour water only along the edge of the container, since liquid getting into the axils of the leaf blades can cause the death of the hyacinth. The procedure requires soft, settled water. room temperature. Ideally, it will be rain or melt. The flower does not need additional moisture in the form of spraying.

When forcing hyacinth in water, it is necessary to periodically add it to the vessel. Experienced flower growers It is recommended to add not water, but a weak solution of complex fertilizer. For feeding, you can use a universal preparation for bulbous plants, diluting the solution at half the dose recommended by the manufacturer.

Hyacinths grown in earth mixture, also respond well to feeding. The color of the flowers becomes brighter, and the flowering period lasts much longer. It is recommended to use universal preparations for bulbous or Beautiful flowering plants. The procedure should be carried out once a week from the moment the leaves appear until the plant fades. After this, feeding should be stopped completely.

Features of caring for the plant after flowering

After the hyacinth flowers wither, the peduncle should be trimmed. During this period, you should completely stop feeding, but continue to water the flower until the leaf blades turn yellow. During this period, the number and volume of watering must be reduced by approximately half. There is no need to cut off yellowed leaves; they should die off naturally.

How to provide hyacinth with a dormant period

When the leaf blades wilt, remove the bulb from the pot. Dry it for five to seven days in a well-ventilated place at a temperature of about 20–22°C. After this, remove all dead scales and trim the roots. Provide the hyacinth bulb with a period of “sleep”, which should last approximately 3 months. During forcing, the bulb is greatly depleted and cannot be subjected to the procedure again. The plant can be planted in the garden in August and enjoy its flowering for several more seasons.

Table: consequences of improper care and what to do to solve problems

Problem	Probable Cause	How to fix the situation
Flowering does not occur	Very high temperature	Move the flower to a cool place and cover it with a cap made of thick paper.
Flowers rot and fall off	Severe waterlogging	Adjust the watering regime, moisten only after the top layer of soil in the pot has dried. Water along the edge of the container, being careful not to get water on the flower.
The buds are falling	Water getting on the buds	Do not spray the plant, especially during flowering.
Leaf blades turn yellow	Draft	The flower does not tolerate sudden changes in temperature and drafts, so move the plant to another place.

Methods for treating and preventing diseases and pests: table

Hyacinth is practically not affected by diseases and pests, but only if the planting material is healthy and the plant care is correct. Sometimes when unfavorable conditions the flower can be damaged by yellow bacterial rot, and hyacinth pests can be attacked by root mites, stem nematodes and aphids.

Diseases and pests	Signs	Reason for appearance	Methods of treatment and prevention
Yellow bacterial rot	Black spots appear on the leaves, and mucus forms around the bulb.	Excessive dampness, poor air circulation.	Sick plants cannot be cured. The bulbs and soil should be discarded. The container must be thoroughly washed and disinfected. For prevention, planting material must be treated with a phosphorus-containing preparation before planting.
Root (onion) mite	The growth of hyacinth is delayed, the leaves turn yellow and die, and the quality of the flowers deteriorates. In the bulbs you can find cavities filled with brownish powder.	Cold and damp content.	Before planting, place the affected bulbs in hot water(35–40°C). If the plant is damaged by a mite during the growing season, spray it with Keltan or Rogor (according to the instructions).
Aphid	Greenish insects appear on leaf blades, flowers and shoots.	Excessive dry air.	Treat the hyacinth with insecticidal soap or Decis or Actellik (according to the instructions).
Stem nematode	Swellings appear on leaf blades and shoots, they thicken and become deformed.	Insufficient humidity in the room, infected planting material.	Spray the plant with Fitoverm, Akarin (according to the instructions). Before planting, disinfect planting material and tools.

Propagation of hyacinths at home

Exist various ways reproduction of hyacinths: baby bulbs, bulb scales and seeds. As a rule, amateur flower growers use only vegetative methods, and seed hybridizers are used to breed new varieties.

Reproduction by baby bulbs

During natural reproduction, an adult specimen produces only 1–2 children per year (in rare cases, 3 or 4). They are separated from the mother bulb when dug up after flowering. The number of children can be increased by making a crosswise notch on the bottom with a depth of about 5 mm. In a year, such a bulb will produce twice as many children, which, after digging and drying, must be separated and planted for growing.

Reproduction by scales - step-by-step master class

How to propagate hyacinth from seeds

Hyacinth is propagated by seeds, planting them in the garden. It is very difficult to create the necessary conditions indoors, so this method has not taken root among lovers of indoor floriculture.

Historical reference

The name of the genus is given by the name of the hero of the ancient Greek myth, the beautiful young man Hyacinth, beloved of the god Apollo. Tradition says that the jealous god of the west wind, Zephyr, saw Apollo and Hyacinth practicing throwing a heavy discus, and directed it at the head of a mortal. The sun god, saddened by the death of Hyacinth, created from his blood beautiful flower. Hyacinth culture began in 1543, when several bulbs were brought from Asia Minor to Northern Italy, to the Botanical Garden of Padua. Gradually, the center of selection moved to Holland, which supplies most of the new varieties and planting material to modern market. The first hyacinths appeared in Russia in 1730.

Biological features

Hyacinths are perennial herbaceous ephemeral plants. They vegetate in the spring, and during the hot summer and cool winter they “hibernate.” The hyacinth bulb is large (4–6 cm in height and about the same in diameter), round, covered with thin filmy scales, lives up to 10 years. After this, flowering weakens.

From 5–6 years of age, daughter bulbs begin to appear. With their help, vegetative (not seed) propagation of hyacinths occurs. The leaves are elongated, narrow, relatively short during flowering, then growing up to 20 cm. The racemose inflorescence on a thick fleshy peduncle can reach 30 cm in height.

The flowers are 12–35, bell-shaped, on short stalks, very fragrant. In the wild species, the corolla is usually blue or white.

Varietal hyacinths have pink, red, purple, dark purple, blue, yellow, and orange. Exist terry varieties. In central Russia, hyacinths bloom from late April to early May for two weeks.

Planting site, soil

Hyacinths are used for group plantings in flower beds and as borders along paths. They can be successfully grown in pots and used for winter forcing. The best place– warm, sunny, protected from the wind. Groundwater must lie at a depth of at least 50 cm from the soil surface. Otherwise, you will need to install drainage or a raised bed.

The soil is light, permeable, nutritious, rich in humus. Sand and leaf humus are added to the clay substrate. In light, sandy soils - nutritious compost. They don't like hyacinths acidic soils. Therefore, liming may be necessary when planting. Do not add fresh or poorly rotted manure before planting - it can burn the bulbs.

Planting, care, feeding

Hyacinths are planted at the end of September - beginning of October (dates for central Russia). The area for them is prepared already in July - August, so that the soil settles and the weeds have time to germinate and be removed. The substrate is dug to a depth of 40 cm, organic matter, sand (if required) and phosphorus-potassium-magnesium are added mineral fertilizers. It should be noted that when growing hyacinths, it is preferable to replace synthetic mineral fertilizers with ash and bone meal, and manure with bird droppings. Nitrogen fertilizers They apply not before winter, but in spring and summer. The recommended feeding area for a medium-sized bulb is 15 x 20 cm. Planting depth is traditionally calculated according to the rule of three bulbs (two more of the same should be placed above the top of the planted one). Accordingly, children and small bulbs are planted more often and not too deep.

Experts suggest planting hyacinths in a “sand jacket”: pour a 3–5 cm layer of clean river sand at the bottom of the groove or hole, lightly press the bulb into it, then fill it to the top with sand, then with soil. This method prevents rotting of the bottom of the bulb, protects against infections and improves drainage on heavy soils.

Watering the bulbs only required if the ground is dry. Hyacinths are heat-loving, so with the onset of persistent cold weather they are covered with dry foliage, pressed with spruce paws. Remove in the spring, as soon as the snow melts. Hyacinths sprout early, but they are not afraid of short-term frosts and light snowfalls.

Care: weeding, loosening the soil and fertilizing.

• When sprouts appear, apply nitrogen fertilizers.
• After the buds appear, use a complex (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) fertilizer.
• After flowering ends, apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizer.

Fertilizers are applied to the furrows between the rows to a depth of 10 cm, covered with soil, and watered in dry weather. If the weather is dry during the period of budding, flowering and two weeks after flowering, water the hyacinths.

How to properly dig and store bulbs

In nature, in the summer, hyacinths enter a period of rest. Their aerial part dies off, and the bulb, being in a dried-out warm earth, lays flower bud next year.

In conditions Central Russia soil temperature is not sufficient for normal development future inflorescence, so hyacinths need to be dug up annually. Optimal time– end of June, when the leaves and peduncle turn yellow and easily break off just below the soil level. For this important procedure, choose a sunny, warm day.

The dug up bulbs are cleared of soil. Then they are washed in a weak solution of potassium permanganate, the babies are separated (the small ones remain with the mother’s bulb) and laid out for initial drying in a shaded, ventilated room at a temperature of 20°C for a week. Then they are completely cleared of roots and leaf residues, sorted by size and placed in boxes (no more than two layers), in small plastic mesh or bags made from old nylon stockings.

The bulbs should be kept for at least 2 months in a well-ventilated, shaded area at a temperature of about 25–26°C (the air humidity should not be too low, otherwise the bulbs may dry out) and another month at a temperature of 17°C. It is especially important to observe these conditions for medium and large bulbs that should bloom in the spring.

Propagation of hyacinth

There are several types of hyacinth propagation:

• Cutting out the bottom;
• Propagation by leaf cuttings;
• Reproduction by scales.

Did you know? A large and dense bulb can produce color every year, but at the same time remain completely “childless”.

Cutting the bottom

In order to apply this method, it is necessary to select only dense, large and healthy bulbs, approximately 7 cm in diameter. When the leaves of the plant turn yellow, they are dug up. It is necessary to wash the bulbs from the soil, treat them with a 2% solution of potassium permanganate and dry them in a well-ventilated room with shade. It should be dried for several weeks (1-2).

Experienced gardener should show you how to cut the bottom of a hyacinth. For this procedure, you need to disinfect the instruments in an alcohol solution (70%). Use a sharp knife or a teaspoon with a sharp edge.

First you need to completely remove the bottom and the kidney, which is located in the center. You should end up with a funnel-shaped indentation. The cut of the bulb should be treated with activated charcoal or charcoal. After this, the bulb is placed in a box with a tight cut, which will separate the plant varieties. The box must be placed in a ventilated room, the temperature in which reaches 25°C.

When the bulb is ripe, the temperature should be increased to 35°C and the total humidity to 95%. It should take approximately three months after the bulbs reach a size of 10 mm. Now they can be planted in the ground (mid-October).

If the bulbs ripen later, then they need to be placed in a box with soil and sent to the refrigerator (6°C) until spring. When August comes, the hyacinth leaves begin to turn yellow, and the bulbs are dug up again, the children sit at a depth of 12 cm, and are covered with peat. Such grown hyacinth flowers with correct landing and care they bloom in the third year.

Important! The planting must be covered with peat.

Propagation by leaf cuttings

This method is applied to a flower that already has buds. Two leaves are cut, the cut is made at the base. The leaves are treated in a heteroauxin solution (0.5 tablets per 1 liter of water). Then they need to be planted at an angle in a box with sand. Depth - 3 cm.

The box should be in a cool (cool) place in a plastic bag. Light - diffused. Humidity - 90%. In just a month and a half, you will be able to see the fruits of your labor in the form of the appearance of the rudiments of bulbs, roots and leaves. Young shoots are ready for planting in the ground.

Did you know? In order to get more children, the sheets are divided into several equal parts. One cutting produces approximately 11 babies.

Reproduction by scales

If you want to use this method, then you need to divide the onion into 6 parts. Moreover, it should reach 6 cm in diameter. The scales should be broken off from the bottom and placed in plastic bag, before doing this, thoroughly walking over a layer of coal.

Perlite or river sand is poured into the bag. The bulbs are formed over 3 months. The bags should be kept tied at 25°C, then lowered to 17°C. It is during this period that the bulbs begin to form. When using this method of reproduction, if desired, you can get 50 children at once.

If an adult bulb has already begun to divide and form three or four children, then you can transplant the hyacinth by separating the children from the mother bulb. This should be done in the summer, and it is better to plant it at the end of summer. In a few years, these bulbs will grow and will delight the eye with their flowering.

Hyacinth - diseases and pests

If not proper care behind the hyacinth there may be some problems. So, with excessive watering, insufficient lighting or drafts, its leaves turn yellow. If water gets on the buds when watering, they may not open. Lack of lighting during the flowering period can lead to elongated and lethargic leaves. If you do not provide the plant with a sufficient period of rest, its growth may slow down.

There may be several reasons for the lack of flowers. This happens due to the planting of insufficiently large bulbs for forcing; keeping them too high temperature; hastily transferring the bulbs to the bright sun. If during the dormant period the flowers are kept at too high a temperature, which exceeds 4-5°C, the flowers will be deformed.

Of the diseases, hyacinths are most often affected by yellow bacterial rot, which turns the bulbs into mucus, which has a sharp bad smell. In this case, diseased plants and bulbs must be destroyed, and the hole where they were located must be etched with a 5% solution of formaldehyde or bleach. After this, plants can be planted in this place only after a few years.

Hyacinths are very beautiful plants with bright and colorful flowers that look like little bells. Flowers can be simple or double with a variety of colors and have pleasant aroma and early flowering period. This garden plant, but if you create conditions close to natural, you can successfully grow hyacinths at home.

Hyacinth is interesting because it can be grown both in garden conditions, and at home. But it cannot constantly grow in some container and delight you with flowering. During the forcing process, the bulbs are greatly depleted, and they do not have enough strength to flower again. Therefore, it is necessary to buy bulbs that have already been prepared and have gone through a dormant period. If all conditions are correctly observed, you will receive wonderful fragrant hyacinth inflorescences.

When to plant hyacinth at home?

Most often, they expect to receive a flowering plant by a certain holiday or date. On average, 14-15 weeks pass from planting to flowering, so you need to calculate this period in advance and start planting the plant on time.

How does hyacinth grow at home?

The plant grows best on windows facing south or southeast because it loves the sun very much. During the day, the flower must be under lighting for at least 15 hours, in winter time You can additionally illuminate the hyacinth using fluorescent lamps.

But, despite all the plant’s love for light, it needs to be protected from direct sunlight, so at the height of sunny day It’s better to remove the flower from the window or shade it with something. To prevent the plant from leaning to one side, it must be rotated periodically.

The temperature should be from 20 to 22 degrees, there should be no sudden temperature changes or drafts.

You can also grow hyacinths without soil - in water. This method is called hydroponics. Dissolved mineral fertilizers must be present in the water. You need to make sure that the onion is only partially immersed in the container - bottom side. At first, the plant is placed in a dark and cool place, and when roots appear, it is transferred to a bright room.

Breeding hyacinths at home

Thanks to the success of breeders, at this stage of time, there are many varieties of hyacinths. Many of them can be grown at home. All home hyacinths belong to the same species - oriental.

To grow beautiful and healthy hyacinths at home, you need to properly prepare:

• choose high-quality planting material;
• select the appropriate container;
• buy or prepare the soil.

It is recommended to use healthy bulbs, without damage or rot, with a diameter of at least 5 centimeters; it is advisable to take them from a specialized store. A small bulb may not bloom in the first year. It is best to purchase bulbs at the end of summer, after a natural dormant period.

Before planting, it is necessary to treat it with special disinfectants.

Next, you need to choose a suitable container for planting. It shouldn't be very deep. It doesn’t matter what material it’s made of, as long as there are drainage holes.
The soil can be purchased at the store (but it should not have an acidic environment) or you can make it yourself by mixing components such as turf, compost, leaf soil and humus in a 1:1 ratio, and adding a little peat and sand.

Hyacinth must be constantly fed and fertilized. Universal fertilizer For indoor plants perfect for this.

How to plant hyacinths at home?

A drainage layer of expanded clay is poured onto the bottom of the container. Lay out a small layer of soil and cover with a thin layer of sand. One or several bulbs are placed on the sand to form a whole bouquet of flowers.

When placing several bulbs, you need to make sure that they do not come into contact with each other or with the container.

Gently press the bulbs into the ground and cover them with soil; the top of the bulb must remain exposed to the air, one and a half centimeters. You can cover the top with a thin layer of sand, this will protect the plant from rotting.

After planting, you need to moisten the soil, wrap the container in an opaque bag and place it in a cold room, for example, a cellar or garage, it can also be a refrigerator. The bulb should be kept in the cold for 6 to 10 weeks. The temperature should not be higher than 5 degrees and there should be no lighting at all.

For hyacinth, such conditions serve as an imitation of winter; without them, it will not be able to bloom. During this period, care is kept to a minimum; you only need to occasionally remove the plant and check that the soil does not dry out.

As soon as a sprout appears, no more than 5 cm high, the plant must be moved to a bright or more warm room, create a “spring” effect. There the flower remains until the first buds form, then increase the temperature to 20-22 degrees. Change temperature regime should be smooth, otherwise the plant may get sick and not bloom.

How to care for hyacinths at home?

Hyacinth is unpretentious plant and with proper care, it can be grown by gardeners of varying skill levels.

At improper care behind hyacinth, the following problems may arise:

1. The flower stops blooming. Most often this is due to unsuitable temperature conditions.
2. . This can happen due to improper watering or due to drafts.
3. Wilting of leaves. With a lack of natural light.
4. Falling buds. This is due to improper watering.
5. Flower rotting. This happens when watering too often or too much.

Hyacinth: how to water at home?

You need to ensure that the soil around the bulb does not dry out. It must be watered regularly and carefully, and care must be taken to ensure that water does not get on the plant itself (leaves, flowers), as this can cause them to rot. Water should be poured onto the edge of the container or into a tray. Excess water must be poured out to prevent rotting of the root system. Water should be settled or filtered, at room temperature.

The plant does not need spraying.

Once every two weeks, feed the flowering plant with liquid complex fertilizer for flowering plants, according to the instructions.

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