Garden landscape design does not have to be purely aesthetic. At correct selection crops can turn it into a source of healthy fruits and berries. Actinidia arguta is a berry plant that produces rich harvests rich in vitamins and minerals. All the subtleties of agricultural technology can be learned from the proposed material. They tell you how to choose its varieties suitable for the Moscow region experienced gardeners. Timely and correct landing actinidia arguta guarantees a harvest after 1 year. And by providing proper care, the owner of the vine can extend its life to 20 years. Look at the photo of actinidia agruta - shown various varieties culture, and continue to talk about the beautiful stranger: 
Description and photo of Actinidia arguta
The more common name of the culture among people is balsam; it was obtained due to its special organoleptic qualities. Description of Actinidia arguta it’s worth starting with the fact that this is enough rare plant. In the state register of the Russian Federation there are only two varieties officially registered by breeders. Belongs to the botanical family Actinidiaceae, has pronounced resistance to insufficient moisture in the soil and sunlight. Can be grown in shaded areas where regular watering may be difficult. Look at the photo of actinidia argut in various stages of vine development:
The difficulty of growing lies in the dioecy of the plant. For pollination, for every 5 female seedlings, 2 male seedlings are required. Otherwise, it will be very difficult to wait for the harvest. Actinidia has no other natural pollinators. Male vines do not produce fruit, but they perfectly decorate any landscape design due to their ability to grow quickly. Fruiting occurs at the beginning of autumn; in the conditions of the Moscow region, the fruits are collected before they are ripe. They require a ripening period of up to 10 days in a dry, dark place. Berries can have a wide range of flavors: pineapple, melon, strawberry, apple, etc. Until they are fully ripe, actinidia berries are not edible and can cause poisoning. 
Atinidia arguta is a powerful vine whose stem can grow up to 20 meters in length. In this case, the diameter of the stem is no more than 15 cm. For rapid growth and development requires the installation of strong, high support structures. Can be used as a covering ornamental plant along high fences, gazebos, facades of buildings made of concrete and wood. Look at the photos for examples of successful landings: 
The stems of the actinidia arguta vine have an unsightly grayish color. For 1 summer season it grows 2.5 meters. Covered with large dense leaves with a shiny dark green surface. Color palette the foliage does not change until the berries are fully ripened. At the end of September the leaves turn bright yellow and fall off after 2-3 weeks. The liana exhibits a certain beauty during its flowering period, which occurs in early June and lasts almost a month. At this time, it is possible to distinguish the male vine from the female arsenium. Male representatives give more lush flowering, forming inflorescences of three buds, while on female actinidia exclusively single flowering is observed. Boiler buds white with contrasting black stamens and pistils. After flowering, the formation of fruits weighing up to 20 grams begins. The average yield is 10 - 12 kg per plant. The berries can be consumed fresh; jam, marshmallows, and drinks are made from them. The berries contain a huge amount of phytoncides, vitamins, minerals and other useful substances. 
Planting actinidia arguta in the Moscow region and subsequent care of the vine
The process begins with a choice suitable place. Planting of Akyinidia arguta should be carried out in soil with a neutral pH reaction. During the initial digging, you should avoid applying lime and fertilizers with a high content of potassium chloride. These substances can completely burn the root system of the cuttings. At the same time, an increased amount of organic matter, phosphorus and potassium is required. But they are included as part of special complex fertilizers. In the Moscow region, Acnidia arguta is located in an area with distances between vines of at least 3 meters. All subsequent care of the vine consists of regular watering and weekly application of mineral fertilizers.
Wintering is not particularly difficult. The plant can easily withstand ambient temperatures dropping to minus 50 degrees Celsius. Spring frosts pose a danger. When the ambient temperature drops to minus 2 degrees Celsius during the period of budding and flowering, it completely eliminates the possibility of obtaining a harvest in the current season. 
Such varieties of actinidia argut as “Vera”, “Primorskaya”, “VIR-54”, “Ganiber”, “Geneva” and others are suitable for the Moscow region. It is worth paying attention to the results of the work of breeders. Japanese botanists offer Actinidia agruta "Issei" - this is a self-fertile plant that does not require the planting of male vines for successful fruiting. Description
Actinidia Arguta(Actinidia Arguta) - a large woody vine with the ability to twine its stems around a support, tree trunk, column , the length of which can exceed 15 meters. The leaves are large, elliptical in shape. The flowers are fragrant and reach 3 cm in diameter. The fruits can be spherical or cylindrical in shape, dark green in color. P The lodes are large, about 7 - 8 g, similar to small apples. The taste is sweet and sour, the aroma is pineapple-banana, reminiscent of the taste of feijoa. Arguta has a high yield, up to 15 kg per shrub. Begins to bear fruit in 2-3 years.
Mature arguta plants present a vibrant, satiny iridescent wall of dark green during the summer, turning bright yellow in the fall.
To plant actinidia, holes are dug approximately 50x50 x 70 cm. The distance between the holes for actinidia arguta 4 m. Actinidia arguta is the most powerful vine growing on Far East. IN favorable conditions reaches 30 m in length. Since the plant is dioecious, several seedlings must be planted at once. For pollination 3-5 female plants One male flower blooming at the same time is enough.
Actinidia arguta has bisexual forms; they self-pollinate quite well.
| Crown diameter and height: | stem length up to 25 m, thickness 8-12 cm. |
| Fruit: | large berries, smooth, bare, dark green, green, yellowish-green, sometimes reddish-brown on the sunny side. Length up to 3 cm. Weight 5-6 g (sometimes 14 g). The shape of the berries is varied - from conical elongated to round. The fruits are edible only when fully ripe; berries collected at the beginning of ripening are ripened within 5-7 days. Ripen in September. |
| Leaves: | decorative, round-ovate leaves up to 15 cm long, very dense, dark green, glossy, yellow and light yellow in autumn. |
| Light: | partial shade, shade-tolerant plant. |
| The soil: | rich, well-drained, light soils, neutral or slightly acidic (see. ). |
| Frost resistance: | withstands frosts down to -22C. Mature plants may partially freeze. |
| Care: | Watering is necessary in hot weather. Mulch the soil with peat, humus, sawdust in a layer of 10-12 cm.In autumn or spring, before sap flow begins, when pruning, broken, underdeveloped shoots that thicken the bush are removed. At the same time, annual shoots are shortened, leaving them 25-30 cm long.Actinidia is not removed from the trellises. For the winter, young plants are covered with peat or humus around the root collar. |
Beneficial features:
The fruits are very rich vitamins - C, P and A (carotene). They also contain sugars, various beneficial organic acids, a lot of microelements, and other valuable substances.Actinidia leaves and flowers also contain valuable elements; flavonoids and saponins are found in them, and in large quantities. Actinidia berries can be harvested for the winter - in much the same way as black currants.
Actinidia is used for diseases of the digestive system, chronic constipation, stomach neuroses, scurvy, whooping cough, anemia, lung diseases, worms, bronchitis, tuberculosis, rheumatism and paralysis. Also, its fruits regulate metabolic processes in the body and eliminate vitamin deficiency.
The best of vines. Actinidia arguta in the garden. Reproduction, cultivation, planting and care
Actinidia grows wild in the south of the Russian Far East, on the island. Sakhalin, in Japan, China. In the flora of the Far Eastern forests there are 4 species of actinidia: actinidia kolomikta, arguta, polygam, giralda. At the beginning of the 20th century. I.V. Michurin began selective selection of actinidia, developed the first varieties, some of them are still cultivated (Pineapple Michurina, Clara Zetkin). In the 60s in Ukraine, I.M. Shaitan continued breeding work with actinidia, as a result the first varieties of actinidia argut were bred.
So, when growing actinidia in the garden you need: a trellis support for gartering shoots, high humidity air and soil, mulching around the tree trunk and shade in the first three years of life.
REPRODUCTION OF ACTINIDIA
Actinidia is propagated in two ways: seed and vegetative.
The first method is used when performing breeding work and has no practical significance for growing seedlings.
It can be propagated vegetatively using several methods.
When propagating by winter lignified cuttings using the pickling technique, the cuttings are cut to a length of about 20 cm, tied into bunches and stored in damp sawdust. A month before planting they are kilched ( different ways) and planted. Believe my many years of experience, this method is not so effective to use.
DETAILS ABOUT CULTURE
Actinidia arguta, selected by the Kyiv Botanical Garden, has been growing on my plot for more than 20 years - the varieties Kyiv large-fruited and Kyiv hybrid. Actinidia arguta is a liana up to 7 m high (wild forms reach 30 m) with smooth branches and grey-brown exfoliating bark. Surprisingly, many gardeners who visit my nursery do not know what kind of plant this is. Meanwhile, actinidia is an extremely valuable crop in terms of its characteristics and is quite suitable for our climate. Perhaps in the future it will take one of the leading places among fruit plants in our region, and when landscaping houses and other buildings it will displace grapes, since it is more resistant to various diseases and pests, as well as negative temperatures V winter period. I never hide actinidia in my garden.
The main obstacle to the introduction of actinidia into culture is the ignorance of the majority of gardeners about the properties of its various species and varieties, the conditions of growth and development over the centuries in their homeland.
Actinidia - forest plant, it grows in the shade under trees, in the struggle for light the vine wraps around the trunks and reaches the tops of the supporting tree, where it blooms and bears fruit. Conclusion - when growing actinidia in a garden in culture, support is needed. Actinidia has a superficial root system. Every autumn, falling leaves cover the ground, forming a natural layer of mulch, and thereby protect actinidia roots during snowless frosts in winter, and from drying out in summer. Natural mulch also retains moisture, and high humidity- one of the most important conditions normal development plants. This means that when growing actinidia in the garden, the soil in the area where the root system is located must be mulched.
It is best to propagate actinidia from summer stem cuttings ( green cuttings). Before planting, choose a place and prepare a bed for a cold greenhouse. It should be located in partial shade or even in the shade - in no case should direct sunlight fall on the garden bed. The soil in the selected area is dug up with rotted humus and leveled with a rake. The bed is covered with clean river sand on top (layer 3-4 cm). Sand containing lime is not suitable, as it inhibits the growth and development of both young and adult vines. A frame of arcs is installed on the bed prepared in this way and covered with film. The greenhouse is ready.
Cuttings are cut from the lower and middle parts of the semi-lignified shoots of this year that have begun to turn brown (separately from female and male plants), the thickness of which is 3-7 mm, and immediately immerse the cut part in water. Then cuttings with three buds are cut. Under the lower bud a cut is made at an angle, above the upper bud an even cut is made, with two bottom sheets completely removed, and the top one shortened by half. This reduces the evaporation of moisture from the cuttings and promotes their better rooting. The prepared cuttings are tied into bundles and placed with their lower ends in a stimulant solution for 8-10 hours. For actinidia, the growth stimulator IMC - indolylbutyric acid - is most suitable. After keeping in the stimulator, the cuttings are planted in a greenhouse at an angle of 30-45 ° so that the middle bud is on the surface of the sand or is slightly buried in it. The distance in the row should be 10 cm, between the rows - 15 cm. After planting, the bed is watered and covered with film. Optimal temperature air for rooting -25 °C.
GROWING SEEDLINGS
In 2011, on June 7, I planted cuttings, 250 pieces each, in two greenhouses. Each greenhouse contained 4 rows of female and 1 row of male plants.
Actinidia plants are dioecious, adapted to cross-pollination. The yield of fruits on vines depends on the ratio of female and male plants in the plantings. The optimal ratio is for 1 male plant - 4 female ones. Caring for the plants consisted of daily morning watering from a watering can and airing - removing the film for 10-15 minutes, and then covering the plantings again. Weeds were removed manually.
On June 17, 10 days after planting, 80% of the buds sprouted from the axils of the two upper leaves, and after 20 days all the planted cuttings began to grow, which indicates their successful rooting. 40 days after planting, I first mulched the seedlings with sawdust (10 cm layer), and then began hardening them - I opened the film for a short period, increasing the ventilation time every day. A week later I removed the film from the greenhouses. Now that the growing conditions for plants have changed (air humidity has decreased), I increased the amount of watering, and began to water in the morning and evening. Gradually the plants adapted to the new conditions, and after 10 days I returned to one watering a day - and so on until the end of the season.
In September I carefully examined the plants. All 500 seedlings took root and took root. Thus, I have experimentally established that when propagated by green cuttings (of course, with strict adherence to technology), the survival rate of seedlings is 100%. Therefore, I consider this method the most cost-effective.
Annual seedlings do not take root well when planted on permanent place into the garden, it is better to grow them up to two years, and only then replant them or sell them for planting. In the nursery, I cover annual seedlings for the winter with leaves (a layer of 10-15 cm), and on top with film. In the spring I open them and transplant them into ridges for growing, doubling the distance in the row and between the rows. Cover with film and water once daily. When the plants begin to grow, I harden them, mulch with sawdust and remove the film. Actinidia requires moisture is not only in the root zone. Young vines love sprinkling in the morning and evening. In the fall, two-year-old seedlings are ready for planting in a permanent place. The described method is very convenient for the rapid propagation of actinidia, since it allows you to prepare almost any number of cuttings without much damage to the mother plants.
PLANTING AND CARE
Actinidia are planted and replanted at one to three years of age. Plants four years old and older, as a rule, do not take root. You can replant in both spring and autumn. Autumn planting is preferable, since the plants have time to take root before winter and begin to grow earlier in the spring. In addition, seedlings can be pruned only when autumn planting. Before planting, prepare holes measuring 60x60x60 cm and fill them with a mixture of loose soil and rotted humus. You can add 200 g of superphosphate, 30-40 g of potassium sulfate or 1-2 kg of wood ash to each hole (add another 150 g when planting in spring ammonium nitrate). The seedling is placed on a mound of fertile soil, the roots are evenly spread, and covered with soil. It is allowed to open the roots only immediately before planting - the plants take root thanks to small roots that are so small that 5 minutes are enough for them to dry out in the air and die. After planting and abundant watering, the soil around the seedling is mulched and a frame with film is installed or the plant is shaded. The distance between actinidia in the garden is at least 2 m.
In conditions of actinidia culture, a trellis is necessary. The vines climb along the support spontaneously. There is no point in removing them from their support for the winter; they easily tolerate our winters and do not need shelter. They need to be trimmed in the fall after the leaves fall. This cannot be done in the spring, because after the sap flows, the pruned vine begins to “cry”, the plants become dehydrated and weakened, and may even die. When pruning, it is necessary to unfold the vine and remove it from the support, cut off all dry and thickening, old and unripe shoots, evenly place the vine on the support and re-tie it to the trellis. Since actinidia is for our gardens for now new culture, it is not damaged by diseases and pests, however, in natural habitats on wild plants There are both pathogens and pests. The main pest of actinidia in our gardens is the cat. Cats really like the smell of young shoots, and they eat the sprouts completely. Therefore, young plantings must be fenced with a net.
In conclusion, I want to say that actinidia grows well and bears fruit in all regions of Ukraine. Produces environmentally friendly fruits of excellent quality, does not require chemical treatment or shelter for the winter. I hope that gardeners in our country will appreciate it.
In this article we will talk about something that is still quite little known to us, fruit plant- Actinidia arguta. This exotic shrub can delight the residents of our vast homeland every spring, summer and autumn with its stunning appearance, and in the fall - sweet and sour fruits enriched with vitamins and useful microelements. For those who still do not know anything about this plant and caring for it, it will be very useful to read this article.
Actinidia arguta belongs to the liana-like garden plants. In the wild, this fruit bush lives in China, Japan, and the Russian Far East. Actinidia arguta has a curly, light brown, woody stem that can sometimes reach a length of twenty meters. This long plant can’t get by without support. Therefore, when landing it on garden plot it must be provided with a stable and fairly high support (trellis). When growing actinidia, you also need to take into account the fact that this plant is dioecious. In other words, two bushes must participate in the fruiting process - male and female. You can determine whether Actinidia arguta belongs to one sex or another in the spring by the type of flowering - a female flower will have both a pistil and a stamen in its arsenal, while the flowers of a male plant will have only stamens. At the same time, despite the presence of female flowers both pistil and stamen, the proximity of a male bush is necessary for the plant to bear fruit. One male bush can provide fruiting to five of its neighbors at once. The leaves of Actinidia arguta are green or dark green in spring. During the flowering period, they become lighter, and some become completely discolored and merge with the white flowers of the plant. Closer to autumn, actinidia foliage turns yellow, pink, and then completely purple. The shape of the leaves is somewhat reminiscent of an oval or ellipse, with the tip of the leaf elongated into a pointed arrow. During flowering, actinidia argut emits a stunning sweetish aroma. Its color measures up to two centimeters in diameter and is whitish in color. Externally, the fruits of Actinidia arguta are somewhat reminiscent of mini-kiwi or gooseberries. They are the same greenish-brown with brown longitudinal stripes. The shape of the fruit can be any - round, oval, oblong or trimmed, depending on the variety. Actinidia fruits have a sweet and sour taste and aroma. Some breeders claim that the berries of this plant are characterized by a certain pineapple smell, others hear notes of apple or apricot in it. In general, all actinidia taste and color differently! Actinidia berries boast an incredible supply of vitamin C. Even the well-known champions for the concentration of vitamin C, lemon and kiwi, contain less of it than actinidia. In addition to vitamin C, this plant is also enriched with vitamin P and keratin. Actinidia arguta berries can be used fresh or dried, as well as in the form of compotes, preserves and jams. All these dishes will have an unforgettable aroma and taste. It is worth planting actinidia arguta in a garden, dacha or house plot not only because of the taste and usefulness of its fruits. The fact is that this plant can become a wonderful decoration and part landscape design. It can also be used as a hedge.
Actinidia arguta: varietiesTo date, quite a few varieties of Actinidia arguta have been bred and adapted to our latitudes. Sometimes they are radically different from each other. They can vary in the shape and color of the fruit, the height and spreading of the bush, taste and aromatic qualities. Some of the plants that live in the Far East of Eurasia, for one reason or another, never took root with us. For example, Actinidia polygamum (Pepper) is not to the liking of our gardeners due to its piquant peppercorn. Our breeders even managed to breed self-fertile variety actinidia of the same name, which does not require pair planting. For the harsh conditions of the cold winters of our Motherland, a variety of actinidia arguta Veiki was also bred, capable of withstanding even thirty-degree frosts. Other promising and popular varieties of actinidia argut in our country are: Balsamnaya, Zvezdnaya, Dachnaya, Mikhnevskaya, Lunnaya, September and Primorskaya actinidia, as well as varieties Geneva, Green Balsam, Ilona, Zolotaya Kosa, Relay and Taiga Emerald.
Actinidia arguta: plantingActinidia argut can be propagated by seeds, root shoots or layering. The most reliable and in an effective way The propagation of actinidia is considered to be propagation by cuttings. Here is a detailed algorithm for propagating argut by cuttings:
The best time to plant cuttings of actinidia arguta is spring or early summer. Actinidia can be planted in a permanent place of growth when it reaches the age of 1-3 years. It is advisable to plant in the autumn season, however spring planting can also give positive results.
Actinidia arguta seedlings Planting actinidia arguta in a place of permanent residence:
When planting actinidia in open ground one thing you need to know Golden Rule— it is necessary to open the roots of the seedling immediately at the time of planting it. If you do this earlier, you can simply ruin the plant, since actinidia roots can dry out within just five minutes.
Actinidia arguta: careProper care of actinidia arguta consists of providing only a few conditions:
The most difficult thing when choosing a place to plant actinidia is meeting its contradictory needs. The fact is that the stem and shoots of this plant love the sun very much, but the root system can burn under the influence of sunlight. Because the best option when planting actinidia there will be open area soil, ensuring shading of the roots. It is also worth noting that actinidia do not like the presence of chlorine and lime impurities in the soil. As mentioned above, Actinidia arguta is climbing plant that needs support. Therefore, it is imperative to ensure the presence of a special trellis of sufficient height. The actinidia root system does not like drought and may die because of it. Therefore, the plant must be constantly watered. Another condition active growth and fruiting of actinidia arguta is the regular loosening of the earth around the stem. In this case, the soil should not be mulched very deeply, as there is a possibility of damage to the roots of the plant. The best mulch for actinidia is the leaves that have fallen from it. Actinidia arguta has no enemies as such. True, you should be careful with indoor and outdoor cats. They happily eat the bark and stems of young seedlings. Therefore, if such a danger exists, it is better to protect the tree with a protective net.
To summarize, it is worth summarizing that if you would like to have a beautiful, useful and delicious fruits, a plant, then without any doubt plant a couple of actinidia arguta. This unpretentious, frost-resistant bush is capable of bringing a lot of aesthetic and gastronomic pleasure to its owners. Caring for actinidia arguta: video |
Growing vines in a garden plot is designed for a long time - actinidia can bloom and bear fruit consistently for about 30 years. But this plant needs long-term and reliable support. It is not advisable to plant vines under large trees, as they will take away moisture and light from the vine. Scientists have found, for example, that an actinidia seedling does not tolerate close-growing apple trees, but grows well with currants. Also, you can’t plant it in the place where actinidia grew; you shouldn’t dig the soil around the vines deeply; only shallow loosening is permissible. For this reason, this plant is not planted close to fruit trees, around which in tree trunk circle dig up the soil every year. In the garden, it is necessary to allocate a special place for the vines - next to the house or near a hedge, giving it the opportunity to weave along a suitable support - trellises or ladders from which there is no need to even remove the actinidia for the winter.
Soil for planting actinidia
Any soil is suitable for this plant, except clayey and waterlogged soils. The main thing that is necessary for this crop is natural and reliable drainage, and for this, vines are best planted in elevated places, on gentle slopes with good water drainage. Actinidia seedlings grow very well and for this reason it requires slightly acidic soil rich in organic matter. The liana does not tolerate lime; for this reason, the soil should not be limed before planting. The roots of the plant are in the top layer of soil and in nature are located directly under the lush forest floor, under which moisture is retained for a long time. In addition to lime, potassium chloride cannot be added under actinidia.
Planting vines
Actinidia must be planted in early spring, plants in the garden are planted at 2-3 years of age. In a trench or hole prepared for planting, a drainage layer is first laid - small stones, broken bricks, pebbles. You cannot use crushed stone for this, because it contains lime. Add 8-10 kg to the pit organic fertilizers and a mixture of minerals, chlorine-containing fertilizers cannot be used to fertilize actinidia seedlings. First of all, soil is poured onto the drainage, then a mixture of soil, sand and fertilizers. A seedling is planted on the resulting mound without covering the root collar with soil. After this, the plant must be well watered and the soil mulched with compost, peat or humus. There should be a distance of at least 2 m between planted plants.
Plant care
Caring for actinidia consists of finely loosening the soil, periodically fertilizing with fertilizer, watering and weeding. Liana loves airborne moisture, for this reason in hot and dry weather it will be excellent to spray it with clean water in the morning and evening hours. The plant is formed starting from the age of two years, best in the form of a standard-free, multi-sleeved fan. There is no need to remove actinidia from the trellis and cover it for the winter; you must remember that the plant cannot be pruned in the spring; even minor damage during sap flow significantly weakens the vine and can even destroy it. Young actinidia seedlings must be protected from cats, they eat the buds and bark on them, most often for this purpose, they are installed around the bush metal mesh. Each plant has its own disadvantages, actinidia has only three of them: instability to frosts in late spring, which damage flowers and young shoots, non-simultaneous ripening and rapid shedding of the crop.
