There are several methods of propagation: dividing the bush, cuttings, layering and seeds. Cooking planting material in spring, mid-summer or autumn. You can familiarize yourself with them in detail by watching videos and photos, which clearly show in what order and how to propagate peonies correctly. For our part, we will try to talk about this by adding our comments.

Brief description of the plant

A flower with a wonderful scent that fills the entire garden, with large flowers, tall bushy tree-like stems, spreading green leaves - this perennial called peony. In its decorative qualities it is not inferior to such recognized leaders in floriculture as, or, and in aroma it is unlikely to find a rival. For its qualities, gardeners are in love with this flower and strive to fill their flower beds with just such a plant.

Breeding and propagation of tree peony is possible subject to certain rules and techniques proposed by flower breeders. These include:

• allocation of landing space;
• soil agricultural technology, fertilizer and top dressing;

Tree peonies in the garden

• selection of variety and preparation of planting material;
• caring for the plant during any period of its growth.

One of important conditions is the initial preparation of the landing site and compliance agrotechnical requirements for cultivating the soil in these places.

Soil preparation

For planting peonies, choose fairly bright places, at a distance of up to 3 meters from buildings and other perennials. The root system of the plant grows greatly over time, and can choke the growth of nearby low-growing plantings.

Peonies love loamy, well-fertilized soil. In a designated area, separate holes of 60x60x60 cm are dug (the distance between the holes must be at least 80 cm), half filled with organic and mineral fertilizers, place the shoot and sprinkle it with earth. This is followed by abundant watering. The top is mulched with tree bark or peat.

1. For mulching, use the bark of coniferous trees: pine, cedar or larch. Before using such mulch, it is advisable to disinfect it in a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
2. The holes should be dug 3-4 weeks before the main planting of the plant, so that the soil has time to settle.

Preparing planting material for propagation

Depending on which reproduction method you have chosen, we recommend doing the following:

Tree peony propagation

• Dividing the bush- this method is used to propagate plants older than five years. They dig up a well-branched bush that has many basal shoots, clear it of the soil (you can wash the roots), divide it into small bushes with 2-3 strong and healthy stems, disinfect the resulting bushes with various means (potassium permanganate solution) and sprinkle them with charcoal. Prepare a mash of water and clay, dip each bush in it, leave for 30 minutes, then plant in prepared soil. This method is considered the simplest, does not take much time and does not require significant labor costs.
• Cuttings- carried out in mid-summer, when the bush is fully mature and produces buds and shoots. You need to choose a healthy and strong sprout with several buds, cut it into cuttings so that each has 2-3 buds, one of the buds at the bottom, one at the top. The container is filled earth mixture or sandy peat substrate. The cuttings are placed at a depth of 2-3 cm so that the lower bud is covered with soil. After 2 months, when the plant produces root shoots, the cuttings should be planted in separate containers. In this form, the seedlings are stored until spring.
• Bottom layering- a spring method that lasts until autumn. In May, a good shoot at the base of the bush is bent to the ground, secured with pins in several places, and sprinkled with earth. Watering and care are minimal; this shoot is partially fed from the main peony bush. During the summer, the branch will take root in 2-3 places. In the fall, the junction with the mother plant is cut off, the rooted shoots are dug up, separated and planted in separate flower beds or other flower beds.
• Graft- this method is labor-intensive and does not guarantee one hundred percent engraftment of the grafted bud; it is used by gardeners to improve decorative effect plants to get peonies of different colors and flowering periods on one bush. In this case, you need to choose one healthy bush with good decorative qualities, and make several scions of other peony varieties on its trunk. If you have never done this, seek help from experienced gardeners.
• Propagation by seeds- this is a complex and painstaking method that breeders use to develop a new peony variety. It requires certain knowledge and is very difficult for amateur gardeners, the result, with the most favorable conditions, can be expected only 5-6 years after planting the seeds.

Attention! Only very experienced gardeners can achieve the desired effect when propagating peony from seeds, we recommend that novice gardeners use the most simple method breeding - by dividing the bush.

Caring for blooming peonies

An adult tree peony bush blooms annually and produces many buds that open as the flower matures. The peak of flowering, when the bush is literally strewn with fragrant flowers, occurs in the beginning and middle of July.

It is better to tie a flowering peony bush to a support

If you want the flowering to last as long as possible, try not to fill it with water during this period: one watering a week is enough. Fertilizing is done before or after flowering. Dried inflorescences should be cut off regularly so that the plant has enough strength to open new buds.

At this time, large lower leaves, loosen the soil, thin out and tie the stems to pegs so that they do not lie on the ground.

We tell you how to properly transplant a tree peony, as well as all the methods of propagation. We consider in detail: dividing the bush, layering, cuttings and grafting. Let's find out how best and easier to propagate tree peonies, and the features of each method.

The process of replanting differs from planting in that the bush is first dug up and, if necessary, divided into parts. Further steps are identical: preparation landing pit, soil mixture, compliance with planting rules and further care.

We remind you that you can replant a flower for the first time no earlier than 5-6 years after planting. For a tree peony, replanting is a lot of stress; sometimes it looks bad for several years and begins to get sick, especially grafted specimens.

In general, he does not like to have the yoke disturbed, and mature bushes (10-25 years old) tolerate replanting relatively easily.

• We described the features of own-rooted and grafted specimens in the article on planting and care (at the bottom of the page). In short, only self-rooted peonies can be propagated by dividing the bush.

How to dig up a tree peony?

The roots of the flower are able to penetrate up to 80-90 cm deep into the soil, but are quite delicate. Therefore, dig carefully, and better with a pitchfork.

1. Tie the branches of the bush so that they are not in the way and are convenient to handle when digging.
2. Dig around the bush at a distance of 40-50 cm (the older, the greater the distance) by about two bayonets, better with a pitchfork than a shovel. Gradually get closer to the rhizome.
3. Gently rock the plant and take it out with a lump of earth (!). If you are simply replanting a bush without dividing it, then try not to let the lump of earth crumble.
4. Then gently rinse the roots with a gentle stream of water. Trim off diseased, old and rotten ones. Spray the root system with a solution of potassium permanganate (10 grams per liter of water) and sprinkle with charcoal powder.
5. Trim aboveground part at a height of 5-6 cm, and place it in the shade for 4-5 hours so that the roots soften a little.

Digging up a bush for further division into sections

How to divide a bush into divisions?

Dividing a bush into “divisions” is not so simple: the roots are tightly intertwined and you need to find suitable pieces of rhizomes (size, buds and adventitious roots).

1. Using a knife, cut the rhizome into 9-12 cm pieces, on which there will be 2-3 buds and 2-3 adventitious roots (at least five lengths and a diameter of 0.8-0.9 cm). Optimally, three buds, and a maximum of five (it is better not to plant large “divisions” with a large number of buds). If the bush is very old, then you can drive a wedge into the middle of the rhizome, which will split it in half and make it easier.
2. Carefully inspect each division and cut off rotting and small roots.
3. Treat the cuts and bush with preparations containing copper (Bordeaux mixture, copper oxychloride, etc.) and sprinkle the cut areas with charcoal powder. Leave the seedlings outside in the shade overnight.
4. To prevent the appearance of root rot, place the roots in potassium permanganate (1 gram per 3 liters of water) before planting for 1-2 hours.
5. For convenience, attach a label with the characteristics of the variety and bush to each division.

Usually 2-4 divisions are obtained from one bush.

Peony divisions ready for transplanting

Preparing for transplant

1. Before transplanting to a new location, soak the roots in a solution with a growth stimulator (“Heteroauxin”, “Rooter”, “Succinic acid”).
2. After wetting, the seedling is dried for 5-10 minutes.
3. Next, we plant the “delenka” according to all the rules and take care of it as after planting. Instructions are given in the material “Planting and caring for a tree peony” at the bottom of the article.

When is the best time to replant tree peonies? In spring or autumn?

We recommend replanting flowers from August 20th to September 30th. The main thing is to have time to replant 30-40 days before the onset of frost. The fact is that by autumn the flower develops well root system, and it becomes stronger and also remains at rest.

Transplantation dates in autumn

Replant peonies from mid-August or fall depending on your climate zone.

• Siberia, Ural - from August 20 to September 15-20.
• North-west, Moscow region, Middle lane– from August 25th to September 25th.
• Southern Russia and Ukraine – from September 1st to September 30th.

The deadline for transplantation is the end of September, before suction roots have formed.

Caring for tree peony after transplantation

Care after transplantation consists of preparing the seedlings for winter: cover with a 10-14 cm layer of peat. In spring, the mulch is raked to the sides and standard care behind the plant.

Next fall, it is also better to cover the bush for the winter.

See the article on planting for more details - chapter “Care for peonies after planting.”

First year after transplant

Peony next year often has most of its shoots in a dried-out state. At the same time, the leaves are often small and slightly wilted, but the main thing is that the upper buds of the shoots are alive. But after a year the seedling adapts and begins to grow.

In the first year, it is important to water well and feed the flower on time. This way we increase the chances of adaptation and successful wintering of the bush.

When will peonies bloom after transplanting?

The bushes bloom after transplantation, usually in the 4-6th year.

For the preparation and process of the first flowering, see the article on care and cultivation. They are different from herbaceous varieties.

Tree peony propagation: the best methods

Flowers are propagated by seeds, layering, dividing the bush and grafting. The process takes longer and is slightly more complex than in herbaceous species, most likely due to their longer lifespan.

Dividing the bush (rhizomes)

The method is only suitable for rooted copies. The main disadvantages of this method of propagating tree peonies are the long wait for the opportunity to divide the bush and the small yield of seedlings.

In addition, not every gardener will decide what he loves and abundantly flowering plant divide. It is recommended to replant bushes no younger than 6-7 years old.

1. From August 15 to September 25, the bush needs to be dug up, the roots should be cleared from the ground with a weak stream of water and the rhizome should be split into several parts, as in herbaceous species.
2. For propagation, take root pieces 12-16 cm long and pencil thick with 2-3 large and shiny renewal buds and trim along the edges.
3. After the cuttings are treated with a fungicide, the sections are treated with crushed charcoal and planted in the ground using the correct planting technique (chapter - planting).

Advice. To increase the number of seedlings, cuttings with 2-3 buds cut from a bush are grafted onto them and placed in wet sawdust in a greenhouse or greenhouse.

After about 20-30 days, callus forms. Until spring, the grafts are left in the greenhouse, but covered with additional peat or foliage.

2ND OPTION. In the first year, the flower is hilled to a height of 8-10 cm, and in the second year – to a height of 20-25 cm. This leads to the appearance of new shoots at the base of the bush, and by autumn they give roots.

Usually you get 2-4 divisions per bush.

Layerings

In May, before the start of flowering, the shoot (preferably the one located close to the soil) is shallowly cut from below, moistened with a root formation stimulator and pressed firmly to the ground.

A 9-12 cm layer of soil is poured on top and watered regularly. From September 1 to September 20, shoots with young roots are cut from the mother plant and planted on permanent place.

Reproduction scheme by layering

Air layering

On a strong shoot of a 5-8 year old bush, 2-3 weeks before flowering, make an incision and treat with a root formation stimulator. Then put on a cover from a box without a bottom, 30-40 cm long (or apply sphagnum moss and tie it with film). It needs to be filled with humus, sand and soil at a level of 10 cm.

Water regularly and add soil mixture as the shoots grow. At the end of August or beginning of September, the overlay should be removed, the grown shoots should be cut off and planted in a permanent place in the garden. Then they need to be covered for the winter with a layer of peat and a bucket.

• The method is less effective than the previous one, and can be used once every 2 years.

Cuttings

Propagating tree peonies with green cuttings is not an easy task, but with the right approach, success is expected in 60-70% of cases, but often 20-30%. The main advantage is the opportunity to get a lot of seedlings. Cuttings should be harvested between June 10-20.

1. Early in the morning, cut the woody shoot obliquely under the air bud (2-3 in total), cut the leaves by 2/3 and treat the cut with a growth stimulator.
2. Plant the cuttings at an angle of 45ͦ in a container with a soil mixture (sand and peat in half, and a thin layer of sand on top). The cuttings should not touch each other, and the buds should be hidden entirely in the ground. Cover the top of the box with film or glass, ventilate and moisten the substrate daily.
3. After about 40-50 days, roots appear. Now they increase the ventilation time and accustom the seedlings to fresh air. For winter, cover with a 10 cm layer of peat and a bucket.
4. In April-May, cuttings are planted in a temporary place. In August, a shoot sprouts from the bud. Cover with peat again for the winter. And already next spring/ in the fall, plant the seedling in a permanent place.

Grafting

Propagation by grafting of tree peonies is a convenient and most productive method. You can vaccinate various varieties, both on the roots of herbaceous and tree species. To find out which rootstock is best to take, read the beginning of the article - the features of such specimens.

The best time is August 2-11 (Middle zone, Moscow region). Scion – shoot exclusively current year with 2 eyes, the lower cut is 3-4 cm below the bud, and the upper one is 2-3 cm higher. The rootstock is an 11-14 cm part of the root, it is better to prepare it 15-20 days in advance and store it in a cool place.

The thickness should ideally match, and the surfaces should be smooth, but grafts with different thicknesses of scion and rootstock often take root.

The wedge-shaped cut is the most popular grafting method.

1. Cut the rootstock in the middle from top to bottom by 4-5 cm, and make a wedge-shaped cut on the underside of the scion (from the bud on both sides). It is better to make cuts under water.
2. Insert the scion into the rootstock, tighten it tightly with insulating tape (the adhesive side is on the outside) and treat it with garden varnish. Trim leaves from the scion to reduce evaporation.

• There are three methods for better fusion between the scion and the rootstock.

1. The grafts are placed horizontally in a container in 2-3 layers and covered with wet sawdust or moss and placed in the basement for 3-4 weeks.

2. The grafted material is planted in a greenhouse so that the scion is higher than the surface of the earth, covered from direct sunlight and regularly watered for 3-4 weeks.

3. Vaccinations are immediately planted in open ground.

Many experts believe that it is better to use the first option.

• A successful graft results in a larger kidney. Then the seedlings are covered for the winter and left until spring. If desired, at the end of September the graft can be planted on a high ridge with loose soil at a depth of 6-8 cm so that the roots develop better, and covered with a layer of peat for the winter.
• In the spring, the scion will develop a shoot, and gradually it will move onto its root system. In August, the seedling can be transplanted with a lump of earth to a permanent place in the garden.

In the south of Russia and Ukraine, grafting can be done in June, but you can take a cutting with one bud and not remove it, but cut the leaves in half.

Scion (top of tree peony) and rootstock (root of herbaceous peony)

Lateral grafting

The simplest and easy way tree peony grafting.

1. Cut the scion and rootstock diagonally at as small an angle as possible.
2. Combine them, tie them tightly and coat them with garden varnish.

Diagonal cuts for side grafting

Seeds

Propagation by seeds is a long, labor-intensive and rather complex process. Therefore, it is more suitable for breeding work.

ADDITIONS TO THE ARTICLE:

We wish you successful flower propagation and even more pleasure from them!

Peonies are extremely common in garden plots. The popularity and charm of plants is due to their relative unpretentiousness, good survival in harsh winters and, of course, the appearance of the flowers, amazing aroma and variety of shades. The most common method for propagating peonies is by dividing the bush. But you can also get flowers from seeds that will delight you every summer. Growing has many subtleties, but it is very interesting to wait for the result of your own selection work.

Why peonies are rarely grown from seeds

Propagation of peonies by seeds is quite rare among amateur gardeners. And there are objective reasons for this. The main thing they focus on when purchasing peonies for their plot is the beauty of the flowers. Therefore, hybrids specially bred by breeders are selected. Their significant disadvantage is accurate preservation appearance flowers only when the bush is propagated by division.

Peony plumpness is not preserved when propagated by seeds

However, in amateur gardening, purity of a variety is not as important as beauty. Most of the seedlings obtained from seeds give interesting results. In this way, you can also propagate wild peonies, for example, evasive or thin-leaved peonies.

Peony (Paeonia) is the only genus in the peony family. It includes herbaceous perennials and deciduous shrubs.

Some varieties do not bear fruit at all, hence there are no seeds. These include, for example, Madame Forel, Marchal MacMahon, Montblanc, Celestial. To a greater or lesser extent, this applies to all double and milky-flowered peonies, which, if they produce seeds, do so in very small quantities.

But even if you collect the seeds, what grows from them will only vaguely resemble the original bush. Most of the varietal characteristics, especially the fullness of the petals and the brightness of the shade, will disappear. This is not to say that the flowers will be ugly, but they will definitely be completely different. But to evaluate the result, you will have to wait at least five years.

Propagating peonies by seeds requires certain skills. This is a rather complex and time-consuming procedure with many nuances. But all the difficulties, inconveniences and long waits pay off when you see flowers that you personally bred.

Peonies are grown as ornamental plants more than two thousand years. Their beauty was first appreciated in China, where they were considered divine flowers. There was even a ban on the cultivation of peonies by anyone other than the imperial gardeners.

Physiological characteristics of seeds

A characteristic feature of peony seeds is low germination, which is due to the presence of an underdeveloped embryo that poorly absorbs from the soil what is necessary for germination. nutrients and microelements, and a dense shell. It’s very good if about half of what you planted germinates. From the obtained seedlings decorative properties

about a fifth has.

Another difference is low enzymatic activity. This means that in the first year after sowing, a very small number of seeds will germinate if they are planted immediately in open ground. Most will emerge in the second summer. If you breed tree peonies, it is not uncommon for seeds to germinate in the third or even fifth year. Therefore, in order to “deceive” nature, stage-by-stage stratification is used.

This property of seeds passes on to seedlings. They grow very slowly, adding several leaves per year. They begin to bloom 5–7 years after planting in the ground (depending on the variety).

Selection of planting material

If you do decide to grow peonies from seeds, start collecting them when they are not yet fully ripe. Otherwise, they will “hibernate.” It is almost impossible to bring them out of this state and force them to germinate.

Fully ripe peony seed pod The optimal time for collection is from the beginning of the second half of August to the end of the first ten days of September.

If you wait longer, there is a danger of rot, mold and other fungi.

The peony fruit is a multi-layered light green (lighter than the leaves) leaflet of a complex shape, resembling a star, at this time it begins to separate along the “seam”. Be sure to wait for this moment. Unripe seeds will definitely not sprout. To create a leaflet, do not cut all the flowers from the bushes. Leave at least 7-8 pieces. The seeds themselves are colored in all shades of yellowish-beige or light brown and have a glossy sheen. The shape is round, and the shell is slightly elastic, soft and smooth to the touch.

The size, depending on the variety, is 5–10 mm. The tree peony has the largest seeds.

Depending on the type and specific variety, the seeds differ slightly in appearance If you buy seeds in a store, it is obvious that they have already been there for quite some time. long time , the shell has hardened. It will be more difficult to germinate them. If the shell is also very wrinkled, refuse to purchase.

The seeds have lost a lot of moisture, the percentage of germination will be very small.

Seed pod - video

In order to “deceive” nature and get greater germination next spring, seeds are germinated at home, using an artificially created temperature difference - stratification, simulating the change of seasons.

Before planting, soak the peony seeds in settled water at room temperature for 2–3 days. It is even better to use a growth stimulator for this (the most popular are Epin, Rostock), preparing a solution according to the instructions, or a strong solution of potassium permanganate (the color should be rich, inky purple). This is especially true for store-bought specimens with a wrinkled hard shell and seeds of tree peonies.

For tree peonies, scarification is carried out immediately before planting - the hard shell is lightly cut with a sharp stationery knife or treated with soft sandpaper. Another option is to pour them into a container with coarse sand or small pebbles and shake vigorously several times.

Stages of stratification

Stratification can significantly increase the germination and survival rate of peonies

Stratification takes place in several stages. It is important to strictly follow the time frame and all the recommendations given. This creates:

• conditions best suited for seed ripening;
• greater likelihood of roots appearing;
• proper development of seeds into seedlings;
• proper growth of peony bushes after planting in the ground.

Stratification phases:

1. Warm phase. The seeds are planted in shallow containers filled with very wet heated sand or soil and sand in equal parts (if you squeeze it in your fist, water should ooze out). To reheat, use a conventional oven or microwave. By the way, this procedure is also an additional disinfection of the soil. If the weather permits, simply place the heating containers outside or in a greenhouse. They are then covered with plastic or glass to create a greenhouse effect. Necessarily good lighting and extra warmth. You can use a special electric heating pad or a regular radiator. Optimal temperature- about 15 ºС at night (put it outside as long as the weather permits, then use a glazed balcony or loggia) and 25–28 ºС during the day. Do not overdry the seeds - spray the soil daily with a spray bottle (the soil should stick together into a lump when squeezed). Ventilate them at least once a week to avoid mold.
2. Cold phase. After about two months, when the root appears, the plants dive, slightly pinching the tip. They are transplanted one by one into fertile soil. It is best to purchase ready-made soil at the store. Also a good option - peat tablets. The containers are placed in a room with a temperature of 6–12 ºС. If you have enough space, even a refrigerator will do, as long as you don’t open it often to avoid sudden temperature changes.
3. Warm phase. Seedlings should spend three to four months in the cold. When you see the first leaf, bring them indoors again and store them until they are planted in the ground in a permanent place (in early August). room temperature(18–22ºС). Cover them again to maintain constant moisture.

The cold stratification stage can be shortened by treating the plant in the hypocotyl region (the section of the stem directly below the cotyledons) with a 0.01–0.025% solution of gibberellic acid. This is a natural growth hormone of organic origin, widely used in professional breeding to increase seed germination. A piece of bandage or a cotton pad is moistened in it and applied to the indicated area for a day. Treated seeds close up glass jars

or the bottom of cut plastic bottles. If after 7–10 days no kidneys are observed, the procedure is repeated, gradually increasing the concentration of the solution, but no more than three times.

1. Cold phase. A less common stratification option looks like this:
2. Warm phase. Immediately after collection, place the seeds in the freezer for two months.
3. Cold phase. It also lasts two months. Take out the seedlings, plant them in small containers and place them in a warm place, providing light and, if necessary, additional heating.

In the fall, dig up the bed in advance, making shallow trenches (about 10 cm) 10–15 cm wide in the soil, and cover with plastic film. After the specified time has passed, shovel away the snow, place the containers with seedlings in trenches, fill the spaces between them with peat, pine needles or sawdust and wait for germination in the spring.

Carrying out stratification - video

Growing and caring for seedlings

Step by step planting process The seedlings are planted in a permanent place in the second ten days of August. The planting pattern is usual, the distance between future bushes is about 50 cm for dwarf varieties

1. and 80–100 for everyone else.
2. Drainage is placed at the bottom of the prepared pit - expanded clay, brick chips, small ceramic shards, pine needles, and so on. To half the soil from the pit add 200 g of simple superphosphate, potassium sulfate and, mix and pour back. The rest of the soil is mixed in equal parts with compost.
3. Then the plant is placed in the hole so that the root collar is at the level of its upper edge, and covered with earth to the edges.
4. To stimulate root growth, you can water it with heteroauxin or sodium humate (two tablets or one ampoule per 10-liter bucket, respectively).

At the end of May, if the climate allows, you can temporarily plant peonies in a bed with light loose soil, located in a slightly shaded place, deepening it 1–2 cm. Level it and cover it with sawdust to prevent the appearance of weeds. Peonies love mild morning sun, but not midday heat. The ideal place is in the shade of a spreading tree, on the east side.

Caring for young peonies

Seedlings do not tolerate soil with high acidity. To neutralize it, use dolomite or bone meal, wood ash.

The main enemy of peonies is rot, so seedlings need to be sprayed regularly, at least once every 2-3 weeks, with a 0.05% solution of Bordeaux mixture (50 ml per 10-liter bucket) or another fungicide.

Feeding with a solution is also useful during the summer. cow dung or complex fertilizers(Fertika-Lux, Rainbow, Reasil, Good Power, Crystal). But in accordance with the frequency recommended by the manufacturer. Too much fertilizer is even worse than too little fertilizer. The optimal interval is once every 7–10 days.

A pale green or greenish-yellow tint to the leaves is evidence of nitrogen deficiency. In this case, feeding will help ammonium nitrate. Be careful not to get the substance on the leaves. Immediately water the plant with clean water.

Peonies require rare but abundant watering.

Watering is no less important - twice a month, but plentiful. It is performed not at the root, but along the edge of the bed or holes made between rows of plantings. Loosening the soil at the roots promotes oxygen exchange and correct formation root system.

The normal development of a seedling looks like this:

• Until the end of summer, before planting in a permanent place, there is one continuous leaf, without the characteristic ruggedness. In favorable weather conditions - two. When transplanted, the main root is clearly visible and has a thickness of about 1 cm or slightly less. A bud must appear in the leaf axil.
• In the second year, mostly roots grow. The maximum number of leaves is 3–4. The stem is short, no higher than 15–20 cm. But the number of buds increases. The norm is 6–8 pieces.
• Third summer - one or two shoots 35–45 cm high. Each has 3–4 normal leaves. It is already clear that these are peony leaves. The root system loses a clearly defined main root. The number of buds doubles compared to the previous year, their length is about 2 cm, and smaller buds form in their axils.

Planting seeds in open ground

If you decide to plant peony seeds in the ground, you should do this almost immediately after collection, allowing no more than 3-4 days for drying in order to prevent them from drying out and going dormant.

Light loamy soils are ideal for planting peonies.

This method is recommended for the southern regions, where winter begins in accordance with the calendar. In this case, the seeds will also undergo two-stage stratification, but in a natural way. The first stage lasts during September, when the temperature stays at 15–25ºС, the second is October and November, when it does not fall below 5–10ºС. In more severe climatic conditions, the seeds will freeze in the ground.

The bed needs to be prepared in advance. It must be dug deep, removing stones and weeds. The most best soil- light loam. If it is heavy - clay, peat, silt, when digging, additional humus, river sand and compost are added. You need half as much sand as other ingredients. For 1 m² you will need about two buckets of this mixture.

1. Dig a shallow wooden box into the bed or mark the planting site in another way, for example, with plastic or slate borders, because most of the seeds will not germinate next summer. You may simply forget the exact landing location. And in this case, less land will be needed.
2. Planting depth is 3–5 cm. Moisten the soil well beforehand.
3. At the end of October or beginning of November (before the first frost), plantings must be protected from winter cold. Fir branches, straw, sawdust, fallen leaves, and so on are suitable.
4. About a third of the seedlings will appear next spring. The rest - in another year. Care consists of the usual procedures - loosening, watering, fertilizing, weeding. The most important thing is to provide enough moisture; the soil should be moist all the time.
5. By the end of August, the resulting seedlings can be transferred to a permanent location. Be careful when replanting, try not to damage the thin roots. It is best to remove the plant with a lump of earth around the roots.

A combined method can be used.

1. Plant the seeds in a box in the fall and leave them outside for the winter.
2. At the beginning of March, bring the container into warm room and keep at room temperature until May.
3. In May - June, when the night temperature is stable at 15 ºС, plant in the ground.

Growing peonies - video

Growing peonies from seeds is a rather labor-intensive process. In addition, it takes a long time to wait for results. But the bushes obtained in this way are better adapted to the weather conditions of a given area and show a higher percentage of survival compared to cuttings purchased in a store. The main thing is that you will have a unique plant growing in your garden that cannot be found anywhere else.

Tree peonies are propagated by seeds, layering, green shoots, grafting and division of rhizomes.
Propagation by seeds. Simple, non-double varieties are propagated by seeds. Collect the seeds before the box opens so that they do not dry out. Then place them in a juicy solution of potassium permanganate and leave for 12 hours. Take sand or peat, steam and mix with seeds (3:1). Place the resulting mixture in a container with holes to drain excess water and close with a lid with holes for ventilation. Keep in a warm place at t=(20-25)˚C for 2.5 months. The humidity should be high during the first week. Stir the mixture thoroughly 1-2 times a week and water as needed. When the seeds swell and become elastic, dry them slightly until they are slightly moist.
After 2.5 months, store the container with the mixture at t=(5-8)˚C for 3.5 months. This could be a basement or a refrigerator. Sow in well-warmed soil to a depth of (4-5) cm. If it is too early to sow, then store the mixture at t=(15-18)˚C before sowing.
The seeds will germinate this spring.
You can do it differently. Store the seeds in the bottom of the refrigerator until spring. In the spring, when the soil warms up well, sow. They will germinate in a year.
Peonies will bloom in 5-6 years.
Reproduction of tree peony by layering. In spring, bend a strong shoot towards the ground. Make a small incision at the bottom, place a spacer in it and treat with root solution. Pin the shoot and cover it with earth (8-10) cm. In this case, the tip of the shoot should be vertical. Somewhere in September, cut off the rooted shoot from the bush and transplant it to the place chosen for the bush.
Propagation of tree peony by green shoots. From June to July, the shoots of the tree peony begin to become woody. At this time, you need to prepare cuttings. The cutting should be semi-lignified, with one bud and a small part of the shoot. Make cuts obliquely. Soak the cuttings in the root solution (about 6 hours) and plant them in a greenhouse. The earthen soil should be moist and consist of peat and sand (10:1). Make a hole, fill it with clean sand and plant the cutting at an angle of 45˚ (bury the bud completely). Cover the “greenhouse” with glass or cover it tightly with film. Keep the soil moist. The first couple of waterings should be carried out with root solution. In winter, store the “greenhouse” at t = up to +5˚C. In the spring, when the soil has warmed up well, transfer the cuttings to a schoolhouse, and in the fall transplant it to a permanent place.

Reproduction of tree peony by grafting. The grafting is carried out in August on the root of the herbaceous peony, which should not be old, but should be equal in thickness to the thickness of the cutting. The length of the root should be (15-20) cm. Cut cuttings with two buds and trim them on both sides with a “wedge” as close to the bud as possible; insert into the root cleft and tie tightly. Plant in a “greenhouse” without deepening the grafting site and place in a dark place. After a month, plant it in a permanent place obliquely, leaving the bandage. Deepen by 10 cm.
Propagation of tree peony by dividing the bush. tree peony can be propagated by dividing the bush. The bush is divided after it reaches the age of 5-6 years. The division process is the same as that of the herbaceous peony. In the fall, dig up the bush, carefully divide it into sections and plant it in a permanent place. The difficulty is that the tree peony does not like transplantation, after which it gets sick for a long time and does not bloom for a couple of years.

Tree peony propagation is carried out using various methods: by dividing the bush, by air layering, cuttings, and in some cases grafting. It must be taken into account that the seed species is used preferentially by breeders.

Bush division for propagation of tree peony

1. This method is used in cases where the plant is older than 5-6 years;
2. The tree peony is carefully removed from the soil;
3. Free the root system from the ground;
4. Divide the bush so that each segment has at least 3 healthy shoots.

At the fracture site, the bare part of the plant is treated with a solution of potassium permanganate and covered with a thin layer of wood or activated carbon. Before planting, the root system of a new bush is immersed in a solution of clay and water for at least 30 minutes. This propagation of tree peony is best done in autumn period. This method of reproduction is recognized as one of the most convenient and effective.

Cutting division of tree peony

Propagation of tree peony by cuttings is best done in mid-summer:

1. The first step is to choose a strong and healthy peony bush;
2. Then the semi-lignified shoots are separated; there should be a bud and leaves on it;
3. The leaves are shortened by half, and the shoot is immersed in a mixture of sand and peat;
4. Immerse approximately 3 cm.

In order for the process of formation of the root system and germination of cuttings to be as fast and healthy as possible, a greenhouse condition can be created. To do this, you can cover the cuttings with transparent plastic cup. Also suitable for this purpose plastic bottle, the top of which you will first cut off. You will have a kind of greenhouse, and the conditions for the cutting will be almost ideal. Periodically, the cuttings are watered, preventing the soil from drying out, and the “greenhouse” is ventilated to avoid the appearance of mold and mildew.

After 60-90 days, seedlings can be planted in individual pots. With the arrival of spring and the beginning active growth The seedling is transplanted to a permanent place of growth.

Peony division by layering

This method was described above and is very similar to it. You need to choose healthy strong plant, select the shoot that grows from the bottom of the bush. The next step is to cut the shoot and press it to the ground. To secure the shoot, you can use a wire pin, which is easy to make with your own hands. The place where the shoot is pinned is sprinkled with soil. You can also use moss instead of soil, this will protect the plant from drying out and dying. This layering is done at the end of spring. Over the summer, the shoot gains strength, and its root system becomes independent. In the fall, the new plant is finally trimmed and transplanted to a new permanent location.

Graft propagation of tree peony

To propagate the plant in this way, you should wait until the end of summer. This is a rather painstaking and complex method of dividing a plant. This method has its admirers and opponents.

Work algorithm:

1. First of all, choose separate part root system of the bush;
2. On this root system it is worth making an incision with a sharp knife in the form of a Latin letter V;
3. The scion is inserted into this incision. The joining place is tightly fixed with grafting tape for gardeners;
4. To avoid death and infection of the plant, the grafting site is covered with a dense layer of garden varnish;
5. The root system with grafting is placed in sawdust for 20 days before planting in a permanent place;
6. Then this container is covered with cling film - thereby creating a greenhouse and ideal conditions for good survival. The “greenhouse” is placed in a place that is protected from direct sunlight.

Propagation of tree-like peony flower by seeds

This is recognized as the work of breeders. This is a very difficult job because you need to follow a strict algorithm of actions. Do not do it yourself, this can lead to the death of plants and seeds. Variable exposure to low and high temperatures, strict compliance temperature regime. Seeds for such propagation must be the freshest. Even a short period of storage significantly reduces the germination of plants.

Advice. For novice gardeners, it is better to use the method of dividing a peony bush to propagate the plant. If you already have sufficient experience, then the cutting propagation method is ideal for you. Those who want to try their hand and approach their garden creatively often do peony propagation by grafting.