Payment for major repairs in a house (8 apartments), where 82% of the area is rented. How to oblige the municipality?
Willow writes 04/04/2012:
This is my sister's situation. The house is 55 years old and has been refurbished. repair 50 years ago, when the stoves were removed. After a stream of complaints at the general meeting, they decided to draw up an estimate for the capital. repairs and decide how much to collect. They collect per year at a rate of 6.18 * 319.06 m2 * 12 months = 23,061 rubles. It’s a ridiculous amount and you know what can be done with it.
(1) According to the resolution of December 21, 2011, 1077 cannot increase the tariff for capital repairs. for the Leningrad region more than 6.9 rubles, do I understand correctly?
(2) Are there any laws that state that the municipality must contribute the lion's share of this capital? renovation, since essentially this is their home.???? What documents are used to document this?
(3) Since nothing was done step by step. repairs, then can they get their money back for the last 3 years. After all, they settled in the municipal budget (only through the court, right?) Or can they simply demand that they be included in the estimated cost? Thank you for your answers, I am so pleased with the site and recommend it to everyone I know.

I answer:
I wouldn't say it's a ridiculous amount. If you use it wisely, you can benefit from this amount. I note that apartment building is accepted taking into account the proposals of the managing organization on the start date overhaul, the required amount of work, the cost of materials, the procedure for financing repairs, the timing of reimbursement of expenses (Part 2 of Article 158 2 of the Housing Code of the Russian Federation). That is, just paying the nth amount per month “for nothing” is contrary to the Housing Code of the Russian Federation.

(3) Taking into account Part 2 of Art. 158 this can be regarded as . I recommend going to court. The payment for major repairs was probably paid to the management organization - and it is necessary to demand a refund from it.

General recommendation is as follows: Draw up a plan for major repairs and estimate their cost. This must be real plan, with which the owners themselves (including the municipality, of course) will agree. Find a local funding arrangement for the municipality's share of major renovations. apartment buildings(if he is). Prepare documents in accordance with it (decision of the general meeting, estimate) or, if there is none, simply a written application to the municipality with supporting documents attached.

Replacement of floors in an apartment occurs for various reasons. Typical examples - it’s time to install heat and sound insulation, a decision was made on a “warm floor”, the boards began to creak heavily, the coating deformed or the humidity coming from the basement increased, you just wanted something more new and modern.

In any case you have to do a great job, which consists of several stages. Much in the process of replacing the covering will depend on the material from which the old floors are made, as well as on what kind of new coverings are planned. In addition, additional floor functions are being thought out that will help protect the apartment from dampness and increase its heat and sound insulation.

So that the complexity of the upcoming work does not come as a surprise, you need to familiarize yourself with all the stages of replacing floors in advance.

The process of dismantling the old floor covering is one of the most unpleasant moments. But no matter how “scary” it may be, you cannot do without this activity, and therefore you need to boldly get to work.

Wooden floor

If the apartment has a wooden floor, then big problems and there will be no difficulties in dismantling it. To work, you need to prepare the necessary tools, such as an axe, a hammer with a nail puller, a screwdriver, a pry bar, a jigsaw or electric saw for cutting old boards (unless, of course, you plan to reuse them), a shovel and garbage bags.

• The baseboards around the entire perimeter of the room are removed first, and only then can you move on to the plank covering.
• If the boards will be re-laid or they are intended to be used as joists, then they must be removed carefully, trying to cause minimal damage to them. Therefore, you need to try to carefully remove all clogged nails with a nail puller. It will be easier to solve this issue if the boards are secured with self-tapping screws - they can most often be unscrewed using a screwdriver.
• If the removed boards are not needed for further work, it is recommended to immediately remove them from the apartment. It is hardly worth collecting a large pile of garbage - it will soon greatly interfere with further actions. The same should be done with other elements that are not useful for installation work.
• Having freed up space, you can begin dismantling the joists. It must be remembered that they can be quite securely fixed to the floor, and they must be removed very carefully, trying not to damage the base. Otherwise, you can add completely unnecessary work for yourself by sealing the resulting holes.
• Having freed the room from the old covering, you need to thoroughly clean it, as far as the base allows.

Having completed this procedure, you can begin preparing the floor for installation work.

Video - complete dismantling of an old wooden floor

Concrete covering

Dismantling of old concrete pavement is carried out only in extreme cases, as it can be easily repaired.

Drastic measures are taken if the old cement coating cannot be preserved, for example, it was constantly exposed to moisture without periodic drying. In this case, fungus and mold could appear in the concrete layers, which can cause various health pathologies of residents - allergies, asthma, rhinitis, lung diseases, etc. Therefore, it is simply necessary to dismantle such a coating.

Another reason for dismantling may be low ceilings in the apartment. If you plan to install a floor with insulation, which means it will have to be raised to a certain height, then the covering is removed in order to make room for a heat- and sound-insulating structure.

If you still decide to get rid of the old screed, you need to know that it is laid on a solid concrete interfloor ceiling and must be removed carefully.

To remove the screed layer, a puncher is used, which breaks off its individual pieces. Typically, this slab leveling layer ranges from 50 to 120 mm.

After removing the old screed (or better, even periodically during the removal process), it is also necessary to carry out cleaning activities. But in this option, perfect cleaning is unlikely, so it is carried out as thoroughly as possible.

Preparatory work

In order for the new floor to be laid efficiently, it is necessary to bring the base, cleared of the old floor, into proper condition.

• From the surface, from the maximum carefully, dust is removed. This is done to detect serious flaws in the foundation, such as cracks, holes and crevices, areas of peeling or coloring, places where the concrete has been saturated with any compounds, or where traces of dampness and mold are visible.
• If any are found, they must be sealed very well, otherwise they will reduce the entire effect of thermal and sound insulation. This can be done using cement mortar, polyurethane foam or sealant. The choice of repair materials should be made based on the size of the damage to the base. In the case of fungus or mold, the base must be “treated” with special aseptic impregnating compounds.
• When the base has dried, further preparation steps are taken, but they will depend on what type of new floor covering will be installed instead of the old one. Therefore, these processes should, perhaps, be considered in conjunction with the installation of each type of flooring separately.

But it should be noted that even if it is planned to install a wooden floor instead of the removed old screed, the surface will still have to be leveled with a thin new concrete coating.

New screed

A new screed can be arranged in different ways. If the base is more or less flat, and a wooden covering will be laid on top of it, then you can put it in perfect order using a self-leveling floor.

• The self-leveling coating is able to cover small differences or defects in the base. To do this, purchase a ready-made dry construction mixture for a self-leveling floor.
• The technology for preparing the solution can be read on the packaging, and it must be followed very carefully.
• The finished solution is poured over the surface and distributed using a squeegee or wide spatula, and then, to ensure the release of remaining air bubbles, it is rolled with a needle roller.
• The leveled floor is left to dry and gain strength. All compositions have their own maturation period, depending on the ingredients from which the dry construction mixture is prepared.

Spread thin insulation and lay decorative coating;

Install a plywood covering with infrared heated floor film;

Lay a wooden floor on the installed joists.

Screed with expanded clay insulation

Another type of screed is laid on expanded clay, which is good insulation And sound insulator. In addition, the material is quite light, so it will not particularly weigh down the interfloor ceiling, which is very important to take into account when making a screed in an apartment. The process of laying this screed is as follows.

• If the screed is installed on the first floor, which is located above a cold basement, then waterproofing should be done first. Its installation is carried out different ways: plastering, casting, pasting, painting, etc. It is applied not only to floors, but also to the lower part of walls, to a pre-primed surface.
• To the prepared waterproofed A thick polyethylene film is spread on the surface, which should extend 15-20 cm onto the walls. The sheets of film are glued together using special tape.
• On top of the film, along the entire perimeter of the room, a damper tape is attached to the glue, which will help keep the screed intact during temperature changes.
• On top pl In the buildings, beacons are installed, which are leveled. They are most often attached to concrete mortar. The height of the beacons should be equal to the height of the expanded clay layer to be filled plus the planned thickness of the screed.
• Next, expanded clay is poured in a layer slightly below the installed beacons and carefully leveled.
• After this, a concrete solution is poured over the expanded clay, which is leveled along the top of the beacons.
• After the screed has dried, it will most likely settle somewhat, and it can be finally finished with a thin layer of self-leveling floor.
• Any decorative covering can be laid on top of this structure.

Screed without insulation

A regular screed made of concrete mortar is made to strengthen the floor under a wooden floor, or on the floors of an apartment building where there is no great need for insulation.

• A waterproofing polyethylene film is spread on the prepared base.
• Damper tape is glued along the perimeter of the walls.

• Laid on top waterproofing film lay the reinforcing mesh (metal or fiberglass), and then install the beacons, which, as usual, are leveled in the horizontal plane.

• Concrete solution is poured 1.5-2 cm above the beacons, starting from the far wall of the room, and then leveled using a rule that is carried out strictly according to guide beacons.
• This way the entire surface of the room is poured and leveled, the screed is left to harden and mature (up to 3-4 weeks).

Once the screed is ready, you can begin installing the joists, insulation and plank flooring.

Dry screed

Another type of tidying up the floor is dry screed, which is perfect for installing it in an apartment. The good thing about it is that you don’t need to mix the solution and create a “swamp” in your apartment. Dry screed floors are made as follows:

• A dense polyethylene film is laid on the surface of the floors; it must also be on the wall, to the height future floor with a margin of 5-10 cm. A board is installed in the doorway that will limit the mixture from spilling out. The flooring must be very tightly fitted to the surface of the base.
• Then beacons from metal profile or even wooden beams. But in this version, the screeds are not secured to the base, since after leveling the surface, the guides from the backfilled layer will need to be removed.
• The beacons are leveled to the building level to an ideal horizontal plane.

• The next step is to pour dry floor filler onto the film. Its layer should be several centimeters higher than the level of the installed beacons.
• The dry filler is leveled according to the beacons according to the rule.
• The final stage is the installation of special gypsum fiber slabs that have special interlocking joints. Glue is applied to them, and then the next panel is laid so that the locking parts meet evenly. The plates are additionally fastened in these places with self-tapping screws.

The fully finished floor is decorated with a decorative coating - you can choose it to your liking.

Wooden floor

A wooden floor, made of tongue-and-groove boards or plywood, is mounted on a prepared screed. It can be laid on joists or laid directly on a concrete base.

The most popular of these two options is still the first, as it has a number of advantages. For example, insulation and sound insulation can be laid between the joists. In addition, the floor surface is raised above the concrete, which also adds an insulating effect. Another plus is that the logs add rigidity to the coating, and it becomes more reliable.

Floors on bars or joists are installed in several stages:

• Before attaching the logs, the room is marked. The lines are marked with stretched twine, painted, for example, with blue. The distance between the logs should be equal to the width of the insulation material (can, if using mineral wool, be reduced by 30 - 50 mm, it will be even better).
• Then the logs are cut to the required length. It should be remembered that they must be located at a distance from the wall no less than the thickness of the insulation. Usually used for insulation mineral wool– when using low-quality polystyrene foam in residential enclosed spaces, the atmosphere will not be so environmentally friendly.
• The next stage is the installation of the joist to the base. They can be fixed directly to the concrete base, or they can be raised to a certain height using special pins or metal holders.
• The distance between the joist posts fixed to the floor should be within 40-50 centimeters. By adjusting the height of the racks, the level of the future floor is displayed in one horizontal plane.
• After completing this work, the insulation is laid. First, this needs to be done between the joists and the wall, along the entire perimeter of the room, then it is laid between the joists.

• The next step is to cover the entire resulting structure with a vapor barrier film - it should be secured to the joists with a stapler.
• The most important process is laying the boards. It is important that the starting floorboards are 5-7 mm from the wall - for ventilation and compensation for possible linear expansions from thermal changes or increased humidity in the room.

Video - Installation of a tongue and groove floor

• A plinth is fixed on top of the fully covered plank floor around the perimeter of the room. It is important that the baseboard is attached to the wall, but not to the floorboards.
• If plywood is laid on joists, then it is necessary to provide a joint between two sheets so that it falls in the middle of the joist, so it is important to calculate right size plywood cloth. To ensure surface rigidity, the sheets are fastened using a system brickwork, shifting the next one by half a sheet.
• When the material is completely laid, it is necessary to seal all the cracks between the sheets with putty, and after it dries, it is advisable to sand the surface.
• Any decorative covering is laid on top of the plywood, and then the installed baseboards will complete the floor.

In addition to the simple floors indicated in the article, which can be made instead of dismantled ones, warm floors - water or electric - have recently become popular. The design of such systems is discussed in separate publications on the site.

Meet everyone possible options floor coverings and you can choose the appropriate one in the publication.

Having calculated everything correctly and without rushing, it is quite possible to dismantle and install the coverings yourself - this will help save a considerable amount, since such work on updating the floors in an apartment is very expensive.

We are all homeowners or tenants. Renting residential premises can be commercial, when the apartment is rented from the owner - an individual or legal entity - and social.

In the latter case, according to housing legislation, housing is in state or municipal ownership, but is provided to citizens on the basis of a special agreement for indefinite possession and use.

This means that you and your relatives can live in such an apartment as long as you like, but unlike the owner, you cannot sell it or bequeath it. In addition, without the consent of the lessor, that is government agencies executive power or local government bodies, you do not have the right to perform a number of other actions. For example, you cannot sublet an apartment or remodel it.

Relations between the tenant and the landlord are built on the basis of the norms of the seventh and eighth chapters of the Housing Code of the Russian Federation, as well as the Model Social Tenancy Agreement, approved by Decree of the Government of the Russian Federation No. 315 on May 21, 2003. In particular, the issue is regulated to whom, on what basis and according to what criteria housing is provided for social rent.

But, most importantly, these acts establish the rights and obligations of the parties to the social tenancy agreement.

Of course, the main responsibility of the tenant of residential premises is the timely payment of payment for it, as well as consumed public utilities. And the landlord - to provide an apartment and take part in the maintenance and repair of the common property of the house in which it is located.

As for repairs, the rights and responsibilities of the parties in this matter are distributed as follows. According to clause 3 of Article 67 of the Housing Code of the Russian Federation, current repairs are borne by the tenant, and capital repairs, in accordance with clause 2 of Article 65 of the Housing Code of the Russian Federation, are borne by the landlord.

It would seem that everything is simple. In fact, difficulties begin when figuring out what exactly, what types of work, relate to the first and second forms of repair.

The already mentioned Model Social Tenancy Agreement helps to bring some clarity to this issue. It says that to current repairs include: whitewashing, painting and pasting of walls, ceilings, painting of floors, doors, window sills, window frames on the inside, radiators, as well as replacement of window and door fixtures, repair of in-house engineering equipment (electrical wiring, cold and hot water supply, heat supply, gas supply) .

Moreover, if, for example, a wiring fault in the tenant’s apartment is caused by a faulty electrical wiring in the entire house (common property), then the landlord must replace it.

An approximate list of work performed during major repairs of the housing stock is given in Appendix No. 8 of the Rules and Standards technical operation housing stock, approved by Decree of the State Construction Committee of the Russian Federation No. 170 dated September 27, 2003. In particular, to capital repair work includes repair of roofs, facades, insulation of buildings, replacement of internal utility networks and other.

However, we emphasize that there are no clear boundaries between current and major repairs in the current legislation.

That is why tenants and landlords of residential premises under a social tenancy agreement often have disagreements. So, a reader recently contacted our editorial office with a request to clarify who should replace window blocks and insulation between the floors that burned out in a fire. According to the above approximate lists of works for current and major repairs, eliminating these shortcomings is the responsibility of the lessor.

At the same time, it follows from the reader’s letter that he mainly turns to the management company to solve his problems. “Where can I find a list of services that the management company must perform for repairs inside municipal apartments?” he asks.

Meanwhile, according to Articles 162 and 163 of the Housing Code of the Russian Federation, management apartment building, which is in state or municipal ownership, is carried out either directly by the authorities or by a management organization selected based on the results of an open competition. In other words, contractual relations for the management of apartment buildings are formed directly between the management company and state and municipal authorities.

Management Company at the same time, he has the right to make claims against the owner and demand that he fulfill his obligations. For example, financing and implementation of major repairs by contractors.

Thus, if you, like our reader, cannot resolve your housing problems with the management company, contact the landlord directly. According to the law, if he does not fulfill his duties, he must be held accountable. In particular, if the landlord fails to fulfill or improperly fulfills his obligations to carry out capital repairs in a timely manner, the tenant, at his choice, has the right to demand a reduction in fees for the use of the occupied residential premises, common property, or reimbursement of his expenses for eliminating deficiencies in the residential premises (Article 66 of the Housing Code of the Russian Federation) .

To do this, it is necessary to send an official complaint to the owner of the premises under the social tenancy agreement, indicating the deadline for eliminating the shortcomings specified in it. If it is ignored, you have the right to seek help from the judicial authorities.

Floors traditionally experience the greatest mechanical stress. It is not surprising that sooner or later any floor covering needs repair. First of all, you must comply with all the requirements of the technology; it does not matter whether it is a major repair of a wooden floor or cosmetic “patching” of a concrete screed.

Types of repairs

New buildings do not particularly need to repair their floors, which cannot be said about houses that are more than 10 years old.

Floor repair options can be very different, the most common are:

• Cosmetic floor repairs.
• Major renovation.

The first type of repair is partial replacement of boards if the floor is wooden. This could be the restoration of fragments of the floor in the apartment. Similar operations can be done even with furniture in the room, they are simple, anyone can do them.

If the floors need to be completely redone, a major renovation is done.

From the premises it is mandatory:

• all items are removed;
• boards are dismantled;
• logs are removed, dust and dirt are removed;
• old waterproofing is cut off.

The easiest way to carry out such work is in a panel house, when there is a floor slab underneath the old joists. The task in this case: removing all wooden structures and old waterproofing, go out onto the interfloor reinforced concrete slab.

After the floors are dismantled, all wooden elements are checked, and material is prepared from new boards and timber that will replace the boards and joists that have become unusable.

Then the whole process starts in reverse order:

• new waterproofing is installed;
• logs are installed;
• Pre-prepared boards are put in place.

If there are gaps between the boards, they are plugged with wood chips, which are pre-coated with PVA glue. The remaining chips are cut off with a chisel, and the floor is processed with a grinding machine. Individual areas are manually sanded with sandpaper.

Then the garbage is removed, the floor surface is covered with varnish in 2-3 layers. Each layer must dry for a certain amount of time.

There is screed on the floors in the toilet and bathroom. If you want to redecorating floor, then the cracks in the screed are expanded and sealed with a cement or gypsum-based starting solution.

During a major overhaul, the entire screed is removed using a hammer drill; metal guides and “beacons” are installed (using a level), and a new screed is poured. Make these simple work you can do it yourself, no great construction qualifications are required here.

Defect detection

There are always special requirements for floors in the house; they must meet the following standards:

• sanitary;
• operational;
• aesthetic;
• constructive.

It is important to check the floors in a timely manner, this will make it possible to promptly eliminate defects that have arisen:

• damage to the varnish and paint layer;
• clogging of cracks and ventilation holes;
• abrasion and rotting of boards;
• floor subsidence,
• cracking of the material;
• cracks and chips;
• shrinkage and brittleness.

If the floor is crooked, then you can immediately determine without special tools that the joists under the boards have become unusable and should be replaced.

When the floor wobbles, this indicates that the joists are badly damaged, in this case you should:

• Having dismantled the boards, check them;
• Having removed the old logs, put new ones in their place.

The ultimate goal of do-it-yourself floor repair is to remove all defects. When installing a new floor, it is important to take into account that there is natural air exchange between the ceilings and joists; its presence will ensure that the floor will last a long time and will not deteriorate from the inside.

The floors of the first floors are at greatest risk; they experience increased vibration. If waterproofing is poor, the inside of the floor becomes covered with mold, and within a few years, wooden structures become completely unusable.

IN wooden house Such problems occur quite often, so it is necessary to do a preventive inspection and tapping of the boards at least once a year. If the sound is too dull when struck, this indicates that there is a cavity in the tree: a section of the board or timber has become unusable. If gaps of more than three millimeters appear between the boards, then this is a sure sign that the floor is deformed, the joists are damaged, and measures should be taken.

In Khrushchev and panel houses built in the 70s of the last century, you can often observe synthetic slabs lagging behind the floor. The reason is the accumulated dust and dirt that falls on the concrete base; This phenomenon is often provoked by the presence of high humidity.

Warping of the corners of synthetic tiles is also common. This is explained by the fact that the floor is traditionally an area of ​​increased mechanical stress. Sooner or later, the material begins to crumble, wear out and deteriorate.

Also, the cause of defects on the floor surface may be:

• rearrangement of furniture;
• heavy metal objects falling to the floor;
• high humidity in room.

Identifying damaged areas is not difficult. You should take a hammer and knock on the screed. If a dull sound occurs, then this is a sure sign: there is a cavity in this place.

How to replace floors?

The easiest way to re-lay wooden floors in a Khrushchev-era apartment building is when it is necessary to replace some boards or joists. The time required for this is short, a few days are enough.

There are more extensive floor repairs when it is necessary:

• remove linoleum and all screed (if the floor is concrete);
• remove boards, joists and waterproofing;
• knock down the tiles and remove the old screed.

You can replace wooden floors with your own hands, sometimes the amount of work is large, so you need to invite help.

Any floor resembles a layer cake in its design; technological requirements provide for the installation of:

• thermal insulation;
• waterproofing.

The bulk of the work consists of dismantling the old floor, which is being dismantled step by step. Rooms with wooden floors located on the ground floor suffer more than others from high humidity.

The lag replacement itself occurs according to the following algorithm:

• using a water level, find the top horizontal point;
• markings are made;
• a beam is fixed along the wall according to the intended markings;
• logs are mounted on polymer wedges or special screws;
• the beam is fixed in the screed using anchors;
• the pins are passed through the timber and secured to the base;
• in the future, the height can be adjusted using a nut, which makes it possible to position the logs at the desired level;
• the remaining studs are cut off.

A space is naturally formed between the boards and the floor, which is determined by the height of the logs; it must be properly ventilated. In this case, cuts are made in the logs to ensure the necessary air supply.

Removing old coating

If renovations are taking place in a new building, then dismantling the floor is not necessary; most apartments nowadays are rented out by builders without finishing. If there is a question about tidying up the floor in an old house, then removing the floor is a top priority.

Most of the questions arise regarding the plank floor.

Defects that occur on such a coating:

• rotting of lag boards;
• damage to insulation and waterproofing.

Dismantling a material such as linoleum is the most simple task. First of all, you should remove the baseboards, under which the edges of the old covering are located. By fixing the edge, you can remove linoleum or carpet in a matter of minutes. Remains of old glue are scraped off using a chisel. Remains of linoleum are removed using a spatula, sometimes acetone or another solvent is used.

Parquet is also easy to dismantle using a nail puller and a hammer.

Removing tiles is a more complex operation: adhesive composition The tile on which the tiles are attached is very durable. You can rent a small hammer drill from a hardware store and clean the surface from dried tile adhesive residues.

• mask;
• gloves;
• glasses;
• respirator.

Any screed can be disassembled using a hammer drill.

Evaluation and preparation of the foundation

Preparing the base of any floor is important stage; The durability of the coating depends on the quality of the base. The most inexpensive and durable foundation is a concrete screed, which is done if there are differences of more than 1 cm in a standard room of 4 x 5 meters.

Causes:

• is inexpensive;
• has good strength.

Preparation concrete base has its own characteristics. The slab must be completely cleaned of dirt and deposits; for this, a grinding machine is used. Recesses and cracks are sealed with starting putty.

Required tools:

• Grinder;
• industrial vacuum cleaner;
• hammer drill.

Then waterproofing, roofing felt and plastic film are applied. The film is sold in rolls, so its strips are usually 1.5 - 2 meters wide. The strips should be mounted overlapping with a gap of 12 cm. Then the joints are glued with tape or damper tape.

Metal guides, “beacons” are mounted, using water and two-meter levels. The technology for installing beacons is simple, but it requires concentration; if the guides are placed incorrectly, the floor will be crooked.

A cement-sand mixture is prepared, which can be bought at a hardware store.

The grade of cement must be no lower than 200. The moisture content of the mixture is permissible no more than 4%. The mixture is poured under the upper level of the beacons.

Important details:

• the distance between the beacons does not exceed two meters;
• beacons must be installed using a two-meter level;
• during the drying period of the screed (no more than 5 days), it is covered with PVC film;
• work can be carried out at a temperature not lower than five degrees Celsius.

When preparing a wooden floor base, it is often necessary to replace beams that have served their purpose. aBefore applying, for example, a self-leveling floor, the wooden coating must be rough.

For these purposes it is used:

• sandpaper;
• chisel.

Differences in floor height when laying laminate should not exceed two millimeters, based on 2 x 2 meters of area

The base of the floor is often made of wood boards:

• gypsum fiber;
• gypsum concrete.

In terms of strength, these materials do not meet the requirements; they are subject to excessive deformation. It is much more rational to install slabs made of expanded clay concrete.

When installing parquet, the humidity of the base should be no more than five percent.

Installation

To cover a floor, you need a considerable amount of money, but if you do this work yourself, you will be able to save money.

First you need to prepare:

• buy a cement-based screed mixture at any hardware store;
• purchase waterproofing in rolls;
• prepare necessary tool and containers.

You can make the mixture for the screed yourself, for this you will need:

• sifted sand - 4 shares;
• cement 400 – 1 share.

Water is added to the dry mixture in small portions and the substance is mixed. After completing the screed pouring, a pause is taken for three days.

Almost any covering can be laid on the finished screed:

• tiles;
• parquet;
• linoleum;
• cork;
• wooden floor (if you install logs first).

The most popular materials are made of wood:

• parquet;
• batten.

Wood is now the most popular type of flooring, no modern materials can't replace him.

After the old boards are removed, you should check the joists - if they are rotten, they need to be replaced. Expanded clay should be poured between the lags or grooves should be laid with polystyrene foam or technical wool.

After the insulation has been laid, a screed is made. When everything is ready, you can lay the boards. The main condition for installation wooden planks: they should not touch, at the same time, the gaps between them should not exceed two millimeters. The installation process begins from the wall opposite the door. After the flooring is made, you should begin processing the surface using a scraping machine.

Then painting begins, using:

• dye;
• primer;
• stain;

Installing the floor does not technically present any particular difficulties, but it is important to strictly follow all technology requirements.

How to lift?

To raise the floor to a level of 15-20 centimeters, it will be necessary to install logs at a given height. You can do this work yourself. The beams are attached to the concrete with special anchors. The distance between the guides is made from 50 to 100 cm. All bars are aligned relative to marks made using a water level.

After the beams are installed, they should be checked with a two-meter level.

It is never possible to place the beams perfectly right away; they will have to be adjusted in height using chips and planks. The error is permissible no more than 5 millimeters between different corners of a room of 20 square meters. m.

After installing the beams, insulation of the floor begins: industrial wool or polystyrene foam is placed in the cavities between the structures. Effective and inexpensive means is also expanded clay, which is often impregnated with liquid cement mortar, which will only improve its thermal insulation performance.

Using joists, the floor can be raised to the desired height, modern apartments they are now doing it with high ceilings, there will be enough “room for maneuver”.

You can lay chipboard sheets or boards. Be sure to leave a gap of 1-2 mm, otherwise you will hear a squeak when walking.

It is important to maintain air exchange in the space between the screed and the boards; this will protect against the appearance of excess condensation in these areas. Along the perimeter of the walls, all seams and cracks must be sealed; for this, polyurethane foam is usually used.

How to repair rough coating?

When buying apartments in new buildings, you can often come across the concept: rough finishing. Housing with a rough finish costs 20 percent less, so additional funds are needed to equip the apartment.

Rough finishing is directly related to construction technology. The most difficult apartments in this regard are those made for state employees or with a mortgage.

WITH monolithic houses things are better; in such buildings, questions usually arise regarding the floors in the bathroom and kitchen. Rough finishing is needed new house It always shrinks, so you should wait a year and only then do a “finish” repair.

It often happens that the house settles unevenly, in which case the appearance of gaps between the slabs is inevitable. Before making a rough screed, waterproofing and insulation should be laid.

The subfloor in private homes is the basis for the final coating. The most common is a subfloor on joists. The logs are made of timber and installed in specially prepared recesses in the crowns. The distance between them and the wall is no more than three millimeters. If the logs are too long, then they are reinforced from below with columns made of brick. The step between the lags does not exceed 50 cm.

When installing a subfloor made of chipboard, the thickness of the sheet should be at least two centimeters

The logs are attached using self-tapping screws. The joints between the sheets are made above the joists, between which thermal insulation is laid; Sawdust or wood chips are suitable for these purposes.

It is permissible to lay a subfloor made of plywood directly on a concrete screed; the distance between the sheets can reach 8 mm. The gap between the walls and the sheets is 16 mm. The installation of sheets occurs in a checkerboard pattern, the sheets are numbered, and a diagram is drawn up of how they will be located.

When working, use a two-meter level. At the beginning of installation, using a water or laser level, it is recommended to place marks on the walls against which the floor will be leveled.

It is permissible to lay plywood even over old wood flooring. Such operations are permissible if the old floor is in good condition. If there are damaged boards, they should be replaced. The thickness of plywood can be 10 mm category IV; such material is inexpensive and durable.

The consumption rate is written on paint containers, so it will not be difficult to understand: approximately how much color is needed. On average, one square meter requires about 200-260 grams of paint (if painted in one layer). If you need to paint the surface in two layers, then this figure should be multiplied by a factor of 1.9.

When purchasing paint, be sure to check the article numbers and batch numbers, they must match.

Before starting work, the floor should be thoroughly cleaned using a grinder. Must not be:

• old paint;
• any irregularities;
• cracks

All cracks should be sealed with wood chips and PVA glue. After graduation preparatory work the floor is treated with hot drying oil and primer.

There must be at least two layers of primer.

• When painting, the container must be shaken thoroughly;
• you should work in a respirator, goggles and special clothing;
• It is recommended to start work from the perimeter, paint it, move to the middle of the room using a roller;
• skirting boards at the joints must be puttied and then painted; if there are “burrs” at the joints, they are sanded down with sandpaper;
• after the first application of the layer, some time passes, the paint dries and then the floor is painted a second time;