Cladding a metal stove with bricks. How to cover a metal (iron) stove with bricks. Calculations and preparatory work before lining a metal furnace

Metal units have many advantages over stoves made of brick. But metal structures have a big drawback - their body gets very hot, and this circumstance can cause inconvenience if they are installed in a room or bathhouse. The solution to this problem is to line the units with bricks.

Why do you need brick cladding?

Without a stove, it is impossible to create coziness and comfort in a private household or bathhouse. Units made of metal have undeniable advantages, including:

  • compactness;
  • mobility;
  • good room heating;
  • Installation is simple and can be done by hand.

But due to the fact that metal is characterized by high heat capacity and the body made of it quickly heats up and cools down similarly quickly, many property owners prefer brick structures, despite their massiveness.

It only takes half an hour to heat a metal unit, but to constantly maintain heat in the house, the fuel in it must be constantly burning. True, a lot depends on design features devices. For example, oven long burning can operate effectively for 24 hours on just one load of fuel.


To significantly extend the heating time, you need to figure out how to brick a metal stove in the house. Thanks to this, the time for generating thermal energy increases several times. Brick tends to heat up for a long time and cool down slowly. Therefore, even when all the wood in the combustion chamber has already burned, the heated walls of the structure will continue to give off heat for several more hours.

When a metal stove is operating, its body becomes very hot and careless contact with it will be enough to cause a serious burn. If the unit is protected with brickwork, it will help protect the residents of the house from such injuries. Of course, its surface will not be cold, but it will not heat up enough to damage the skin.


In addition, a metal stove lined with bricks looks more beautiful and original. In this case, the masonry can be done using decorative techniques or painted. As a result, the interior of the room will be transformed for the better.

Materials for brickwork

Before starting work, you should decide which brick to line the iron stove with in order to achieve the desired result. It should be noted that any material is not suitable for this. The reason is that as a result of constant temperature changes and the appearance of condensation, the integrity of the masonry will quickly be compromised and all efforts at its construction will be in vain.

As practice has shown, only baked clay bricks, distinguished by their characteristic red tint, are suitable for cladding metal units. To choose quality products, you should take one product and throw it from a height of 1 -1.5 meters onto a hard surface. If it is cracked, there is no need to purchase it.

There is another way to check the quality of masonry material. You need to split the brick into two parts and look at the cut - a good product will have a uniformly colored core. The presence of dark spots indicates that the batch of products was burned in violation of the technology.


In addition to bricks, you will also need a masonry mortar that can cope with temperature changes and withstand extreme heat. To line a metal unit, you can use a mixture of clay and sand in a 1:1 ratio. Add 100 grams of salt to a bucket of solution.

If a cement composition is selected, then you need to add fireclay clay or glue intended for construction work with porcelain stoneware. Experienced craftsmen do not recommend mixing a lot of mortar at one time before laying; it is better to prepare small portions, since it can dry out quickly.

When it is decided to strengthen the masonry using reinforcing mesh, it is pre-cut into strips of a certain size. Reinforcement is required for weak foundations under heating structure, not designed for additional load from brick cladding.

Arrangement of the foundation for a metal furnace

Before laying brick over the unit, you need to thoroughly prepare and strengthen the base for it. Since metal structures are lightweight, they do not require a separate foundation, but brick cladding will have an additional load equal to tens of kilograms.

Not every flooring capable of supporting such a mass. For this reason, before covering the boiler with bricks, it is imperative to dismantle the floor and arrange a separate foundation - columnar or monolithic.

Most often, a monolithic base is made. To do this, the floor under the stove is dismantled. The foundation parameters should be such that there is a gap of 10 to 15 centimeters between the future brick cladding and the metal body of the unit.


First, they dig a hole approximately 30 centimeters deep, pour crushed stone and sand onto the bottom, compact it, install reinforcement and fill it concrete mortar. The foundation will harden in about 2 weeks.

To arrange a columnar foundation, pillars are installed at the corners of the facing box and in places of the highest load. The advantage of this base is that no drainage or waterproofing is required.


The sequence of actions during the construction of a columnar foundation is as follows:

  1. Markings are made at the corners of the furnace for mounting the pillars.
  2. Dig holes located strictly vertically, having a depth of about 50 centimeters.
  3. A 10-centimeter layer of sand is poured into the bottom of all holes and compacted.
  4. Prepare a solution of cement and sand in a 1:2 ratio; it should have the consistency of thick sour cream.
  5. The solution is poured over the layer of sand in a 10-centimeter layer. Crushed stone or brick chips are added to it.
  6. After hardening, brick pillars are laid out so that they rise 7–10 centimeters above the floor.
  7. Install the lower trim beam. The most reliable way would be to lay the channel around the perimeter and weld the edge.

The use of concrete pillars is permitted. You can make sure that they are vertical using a building level.

Preparation of mortar for cladding

Experts advise using fine mountain sand to make a high-quality mixture, as it is highly durable and heat-resistant. First, the sand must be passed through a sieve with cells measuring 1.5 millimeters; the finer it is, the thinner and neater the seams between adjacent bricks will be. The fact is that thin seams help the masonry retain heat longer.

It is impossible to name the exact proportions of sand and clay in the solution, since each time the clay will have a different fat content.

To determine the desired ratio of components, proceed as follows:

  1. Measure out 5 liter cans clay, previously sifted through a sieve.
  2. Nothing is added to the first jar, 1/10 of the sand is poured into the second, a quarter of a liter container of sand is poured into the third, 3/4 is added to the fourth, and a whole liter is poured into the fifth.
  3. Add water to each mixture until a solution is obtained that has a plasticine-like consistency and does not stick to your hands.
  4. Then they make 5 balls with a diameter of 5 to 7 centimeters and 5 small 3-mm pancakes.
  5. Clay crafts are left to dry in the shade for about two weeks.
  6. Then the balls and pancakes, so as not to be confused, are numbered and thrown to the ground from a height of 100 centimeters. An unbroken option is suitable for masonry.


After the proportion of the components is determined, they begin to prepare the masonry mixture. First, clay is poured into a large container, filled with water and left to sour for 3 days, during which time it should become elastic.

Then add the required volume of water and mix the mass until smooth so that there are no lumps in it. The mixture should come off the trowel easily. Next, a little mortar is applied to the brick and applied to the masonry. If after 5 minutes it cannot be torn off, then this solution can be used.

There is another way to check that the mixture is prepared correctly - you should lower a wooden stick into it. A good solution will cover it with a thin layer, the dry one will be barely noticeable, and after the greasy composition, a shiny film will remain.

Cladding masonry

Before you cover the heating boiler with brick, you must remember that the stove with a brick “jacket” must be located at a distance of at least 20 centimeters from the wall.

If it is made of wood or other flammable materials, the gap should be increased to 50 centimeters. Ensure fire safety of walls made of wood materials possible using finishing made of metal or asbestos-cement sheets.


The furnace lining is carried out taking into account certain rules:

  1. The masonry must be done in half a brick and not thicker, otherwise it will not warm up. When the first row is made, measure the indentations from outside the unit body to the inside of the cladding. In this case, the minimum permissible distance is 5 centimeters, and the recommended distance is 10 centimeters.
  2. The laying is done in a checkerboard pattern. The bricks are pre-soaked, the moisture is shaken off, and only then a clay solution is applied over the entire surface. If you do not wet the brick, it will absorb all the liquid from the mortar and the mixture will lose its binding qualities. The brick is applied to the adjacent product with the smeared part and tapped with a wooden hammer.
  3. In order to increase the rigidity of the fence, a reinforcing mesh is used; it is laid on top of each row of masonry. Where the corners pass, the mesh must be tightened with soft steel wire. It is necessary that the mesh does not protrude beyond the edges of the masonry, but fits tightly to it.
  4. The seams should be immediately rubbed with clay mortar.
  5. To ensure unhindered movement of air around the stove body, several holes are left in the masonry. The easiest way to make them is to fasten the brick across. On each side of the cladding you need to equip 4 holes - 2 at the top and bottom.
  6. The lower openings are intended for the entry of cold air, and the upper ones for the exit of heated air masses. This will prevent overheating of the boiler and ensure free flow of heat into the room.
  7. Laying is carried out to the top of the metal unit. For the last row, you can take bricks decorated with a textured decorative surface.
  8. After finishing the masonry, the walls are allowed to dry. The solution finally hardens after a few days.
  9. Then the surface must be cleaned of excess clay mixture. The bricks should only have an even color. This job is best done with a drill with a brush attachment or the old method using sandpaper. Before starting cleaning, put on a respirator.
  10. If, after completion of the work, the cladding surface is visible dark spots, you should go over them with a stiff brush dipped in a soapy solution. Then it is washed off and the masonry is allowed to dry.

But it is necessary not only to know how to line an iron stove in a house with brick, but also how to use it later. It is important to carry out the first fire correctly, since the durability of the constructed structure depends on it.


This should be done carefully, without overloading the unit, so that the solution acquires maximum strength with a non-critical and gradual increase in temperature.

If an iron stove in a bathhouse has been lined, then after the first visit to the steam room, the changes that have occurred will be noticeable, since the heat will become softer and more even, and it will last longer in the room.


By the way, a brick “jacket” erected around a metal unit gives off when heated excess moisture the surrounding space, and when cooling, absorbs excess vapor present in the steam room. Thanks to this, the indoor microclimate will be comfortable and beneficial for the human body.


Considering the high thermal loads, the question is quite fair: what kind of brick is needed to line a metal stove in a bathhouse?

In most cases, the choice comes down to four options:

  • Regular red brick. It can be used for lining a furnace, as it has sufficient heat resistance and good heat capacity. The best option– a solid brick, since a hollow one will warm up worse and cool faster. Its great appearance will look good in the interior of the bathhouse.
  • Sand-lime brick. This type is not recommended. Its components are not well tolerated high temperatures, and the appearance makes additional cladding necessary.
  • Fire brick. From a performance point of view, this is a good option. However, this type of brick is more expensive than regular red brick. If it is not purchased specifically for the furnace lining, then it is advisable to save it, since it is possible that it will be needed to solve more important problems.

Construction of a pile foundation

This process begins with the installation of several piles by drilling. They will serve as a support for the entire structure. The dimensions of the foundation for the furnace are determined by the dimensions of the furnace structure. The construction process occurs in the following sequence:

  1. Using a drill, we make holes 1 m deep and 20 cm in diameter.
  2. Pour crushed stone into the bottom and compact it.
  3. Then we install the formwork from roofing material, previously wrapped in tubes.
  4. Next, fill with concrete to the bottom level of the slab.
  5. After 10 days, you should install a slab of concrete material. It should have a thickness of 15 cm.
  6. At the final stage, we waterproof the base using hot bitumen or roofing felt.

Foundation for a Russian stove

The Russian stove is a structure that has a lot of weight. Based on this circumstance, the foundation being built must be strong and have a direct connection to the ground, regardless of the foundation of the house. Before starting the construction process, you need to remove the top soil layer 10-50 cm thick. It contains many impurities of organic origin. This makes the soil structure porous, which is highly undesirable for construction. Further actions are performed in the following sequence:

  1. We begin work by preparing the pit. The size of the hole should be approximately 15 cm more parameters ovens on each side. Thanks to this, it will be much easier to install the formwork.
  2. To distribute the load evenly, the stove base must exceed the dimensions of the stove by 5 cm.
  3. We cover the bottom of the pit with a filter pad of sand 20 centimeters thick. We perform compaction.
  4. To ensure sufficient shrinkage of the sand, the layer should be watered several times. When performing this procedure, the layer will decrease. Therefore, sand must be added to ensure the required thickness.
  5. Once shrinkage is complete, the sand should be leveled and compacted properly.
  6. Then we fill in a layer of crushed stone, its thickness should be 20 cm. You can mix crushed stone with stones small size or broken bricks. This layer should be covered with sand on top, which must again be filled with water. Thus, the sand will fill the resulting voids.
  7. Then you need to fill in another layer of crushed stone 10 cm thick.
  8. We make a tamper and lay the roofing material in two layers.
  9. To ensure the foundation is fixed, formwork must be installed. For this you can use boards or plywood sheets. Supports should be installed on the outer sides of the formwork, which will act as insurance.
  10. There should be a gap of 10 cm between the edge of the trench and the formwork. The walls of the structure must be moistened.
  11. Afterwards we fill the foundation under the stove with a thickness of 5 cm.
  12. After the concrete mass has hardened, it is necessary to install the reinforcement.
  13. The reinforcing mesh must be knitted in cells using wire.
  14. Then pour the second layer concrete composition. It must be prepared from cement, sand and crushed stone in accordance with the following proportions: 1:3:5. The process of pouring the composition is carried out in stages. Each layer must be compacted and watered.
  15. The final layer of concrete mass is leveled and covered with a tarpaulin until completely dry.

Foundation for a fireplace stove

To make such a base, a thick monolithic slab on two concrete piles. This foundation will essentially be a concrete stand for the fireplace stove and at the same time a fire apron. The level of the structure must be equal to the floor. Then we perform the following actions:

  1. We form a concrete pad using beacons.
  2. Then we level its surface using a self-leveling compound.
  3. Next, we install the formwork from the boards.
  4. We apply a primer to the surface, after it dries, use glue to lay porcelain stoneware slabs on the foundation. If the slabs are large, both the base and the surface of the slab must be treated with adhesive. In case of non-compliance this condition there is a possibility of voids occurring.
  5. To achieve correct location slabs relative to the wall should be marked on the base using a pencil.
  6. The glue is applied using a special comb with 10 mm teeth.
  7. Then we lay the slabs one after another on the surface of the base.
  8. At the end of the work, you should make sure that the laid slabs are horizontal.
  9. At this point the base for the fireplace stove is ready.

Information taken from the sites: samanka.ru, small-house.ru, www.my-71.ru,

In practice, the question arises quite often about how to line a stove with bricks. Despite the numerous advantages of such furnaces, they also have disadvantages that have to be eliminated during their operation.

This event will require certain labor costs and financial investments, but the resulting effect will quickly compensate for them. Laying bricks yourself allows you to reduce costs.

An iron stove is quite efficient, heats up quickly and takes up little space. In addition, it is quickly installed without additional costs. All this attracts owners country houses And . However, during operation, serious shortcomings, which with frequent use of stoves become a significant negative factor.

The need for external cladding of metal furnaces is caused by the following circumstances:

  1. The metal heats up very quickly, but also cools down quickly, which requires constant heating during operation of the furnace. This is especially inconvenient in a steam room, when during a long procedure there is not enough fuel. As a result, it is noted excessive fuel consumption.
  2. The metal casing becomes very hot, which can cause burn on touch. Furnaces are usually fenced off to prevent this, but the risk is quite high.
  3. Excessively heated metal is characterized by hard thermal radiation with a significant infrared component. Such radiation “burns” oxygen in the air and has a harmful effect on humans during prolonged stay in close proximity.
  4. The overheated metal body has increased fire danger. If flammable substances accidentally come into contact with it, a fire will occur.

The outer lining of the furnace eliminates these disadvantages. For this purpose they can be used various materials(For example, ). The greatest effect and attractive, aesthetic appearance is provided by brickwork.

What kind of brick to cover?

When planning work, it is important to choose the right base material - brick, and solution to secure it. Best suits the requirements operational requirements fireproof, fireclay brick. It can withstand any heating and sudden temperature changes. However, its appearance is not attractive enough, and it costs a lot.

The best option is solid, red brick. Important condition– it must be well annealed and have the correct geometry. In other words, high-quality material must be used to line a metal furnace.

The degree of annealing can be checked by sound. When you lightly tap the brick with a hammer, a ringing sound should be heard. The color of all elements must be uniform.

Sand-lime brick white good for home decoration. Its lime component cannot withstand constant heating and temperature changes, which leads to rapid destruction of the material. It is not recommended to use such bricks for stove lining. If you have the financial means, you can use a fairly expensive facing, ceramic brick Red.

Other important material - masonry mortar. By analogy with stove masonry, many craftsmen use a clay-sand composition.

Proportions are most often selected experimentally based on the plasticity of the mass, because clay can have different fat content.

The ratio of clay to sand may vary from 1:1 to 1:3. To strengthen the masonry, it is recommended to add cement. The most common composition is cement and clay (1 part each), sand (4 parts).

The simplest and most reliable option is purchase of ready-made fire-resistant composition for furnaces, which is sold in the form of dry mixtures.

As additional materials You will need a steel corner 40x40 mm, a metal sheet, asbestos. The corner is necessary to strengthen the structure. A metal sheet is used to construct the base, and an asbestos sheet is necessary to protect the walls of the structure.

What tools are needed?

For high-quality masonry, you must prepare the following tools in advance:

  1. Trowel (trowel). This is the main tool for masonry, with which the mortar is applied and its excess is removed. If necessary, you can tap the element with the end of a pen.
  2. Pick hammer. With its help, the position of the brick is adjusted and split into pieces the right size.
  3. Joining. Designed to organize seams and give them an attractive appearance.
  4. Order. It is a set of a rail, a holder and a wedge. With its help, the height of the masonry is ensured.
  5. Rule. The tool is needed to level the surface of the base.
  6. Cord mooring. With its help, rows are aligned horizontally.
  7. Measuring and control instruments– , plumb line, tape measure, square, metal ruler.

When implementing brickwork It is important to qualitatively prepare a brick element of the required size. Experienced master This operation is carefully done with a pick. For a less experienced person, it is better to use a grinder, which allows you to evenly cut the brick according to the markings.

In addition, when preparing the solution, it is advisable to use construction mixer, ensuring uniform mixing. If it is necessary to install additional fasteners, you need electric drill.

Preparatory stage

Preparation for finishing a metal furnace begins with preparing the site for its major installation and developing a project (drawings) with order. The following standards and recommendations are taken into account:

  1. Distance from combustion chamber to wooden walls or partitions there should be at least 40 cm, and if there is fireproof protection (metal or asbestos sheet) - at least 30 cm.
  2. Between the metal of the stove and the brickwork it is necessary to leave gap 4-10 cm. The lack of clearance leads to excessive heating of the metal.
  3. The base (foundation) must be calculated based on the total weight of the entire installation with finishing. It should not be connected to the foundation of the structure. The minimum gap between the foundations of the house and the stove is 5 cm.

At the preparatory stage it is important to ensure reliable base for the stove. Brickwork significantly makes the entire structure heavier, which causes the appearance of increased requirements. First of all, the load is calculated. This includes estimating the weight of the brick trim.

To do this, the required number of bricks is determined, which is multiplied by the weight of one element. The weight of a standard solid red brick averages 3450 g, but can vary between 3.3-3.6 kg; facing bricks– 1450

If design load(brickwork, the stove itself, a water tank) do not exceed 750 kg, then you can do without a foundation, limiting yourself to strengthening the floor covering and installing fireproof protection. For large design loads, a foundation should be erected.


Depending on the weight of the installation, the foundation is buried below the floor level by 12-20 cm and raised above its surface by 8-12 cm. The base is made slab-shaped, and its dimensions are 16-20 cm larger than the dimensions of the brickwork in all directions.

The foundation is erected in the following order:

  1. The floor covering is being disassembled and logs are cut at the construction site. The remaining logs are strengthened by tying them together with jumpers.
  2. Digging a hole the required size with a depth of 30-40 cm. A cushion of sand and gravel 15-20 cm thick is poured onto its bottom and thoroughly compacted. A reinforcing mesh is laid on top.
  3. Formwork being installed. Cement-sand mortar is poured. The thickness of the concrete layer is 20-30 cm. The solution is prepared from cement (not lower than M300) and sand in a ratio of 1:3. The surface is carefully leveled using the rule, and the horizontalness is checked with a level.
  4. On concrete base fits waterproofing from .
  5. Over waterproofing 2-3 rows of bricks are laid so that they cover the entire surface of the concrete. In this case, the rows are tied, i.e. the seams of the bottom row fall on the body of the brick in the top row. The surface is carefully leveled horizontally.

At the preparatory stage, the tightness of the chimney is also checked. If necessary, the joints are covered with a heat-resistant sealant that can withstand heating up to 1200 ºС. Screens made of fire-resistant material are fixed along the perimeter of the entire floor adjacent to the prepared base.

Finally preparatory stage ends with a blank the right tool and preparing mortar for masonry.

Full or partial lining

The finish of a metal stove can be full or partial. In the first case, the installation is completely covered with a brick casing.

Walls are built on all sides, rising higher upper platform and are covered with a slab through which the chimney is discharged. In essence, a brick oven is created, the “heart” of which is a metal installation.

Partial lining can be done in different ways. Most often, the back wall is not erected in the gap between the furnace and the wall of the structure. Often the bricklaying is completed below the upper platform of the furnace, especially when it has an increased body height.

The category of partial lining also includes design with numerous windows(lattice system). This lining protects from touch, but practically does not limit heat flow.

The metal stove is of interest with remote firebox. Such an installation is mounted in the wall opening between the rooms so that its main part is located in the main room (for a bathhouse - a steam room), and the firebox door is located in the adjacent room (for a bathhouse - a dressing room).

This design has certain advantages: saving space in the main room, moving “dirty work” and fuel storage to the utility room, the ability to service the stove without disturbing the conditions in the main room.

A stove with a remote firebox can also be lined with brick. On the front side, 3 walls are erected adjacent to the main wall of the structure.

On the other side, a wall is erected, restoring the previously existing partition, and an opening is formed for kindling, through which the combustion door opens and access to the window for cleaning the stove is provided.


How to line a stove correctly?

When carrying out work on lining a metal furnace with bricks, the following recommendations should be taken into account:

  1. Brick walls are built at a distance of 5-7 cm from the stove. The stove itself is firmly installed on the prepared foundation, but with the condition that it can be replaced without dismantling the brickwork.
  2. The surface of the wall of the structure located closest to the furnace is covered with an asbestos sheet.
  3. The optimal thickness of a brick wall is half a brick. In rare cases, to strengthen the structure, the masonry is made in one brick. A small iron stove can be lined with walls a quarter brick thick (spoon masonry).
  4. When fully enclosed, at least 2 holes (at the bottom and at the top) must be formed for air circulation in the gap between the metal and the brick.
  5. Masonry begins with the formation of corners. The lowest row is laid out from solid bricks. The second row lies in relation to the bottom row, i.e. shifts by half a brick. All subsequent rows are placed with a bandage.
  6. Before laying, each brick should be moistened with water. The solution is applied on top of the already laid row. The new element is pushed into place and aligned with your hands and the handle of a trowel. The width of the seam is kept the same and is 4-5 mm. Vertical and horizontal seams are completely filled with mortar.
  7. During the laying process, order is used to correct formation rows and a mooring cord that allows you to align the rows horizontally. Quality control is constantly checked by level and plumb.
  8. The laying is carried out in order, i.e. a new row begins to lay down only after the completion of laying the bottom row along the entire perimeter.

When laying bricks, it should be remembered that it also performs a decorative function. The brick must be laid evenly, and the seams must be formed using jointing. Decorative elements such as arches over a firebox window or stove are welcome.



An iron stove has certain advantages, but to increase the comfort of a room, it is often necessary to cover it with bricks. Such work can be done with your own hands, but for this accuracy and correctness of actions are required. Brick finish will help improve the performance of the stove and provide an attractive appearance.

There are several key tasks in arranging a bathhouse. The main one is laying the stove. The comfortable atmosphere in the room and efficiency depend on how quickly this object heats up. bath procedure. Both cold and overheating can have a negative impact on the health of the owners. You can line an iron stove in a bathhouse with bricks to preserve heat.

Brick will allow you to retain heat longer than without

Advantages of metal furnaces

A metal sauna stove is a fairly common choice. Compared to others alternative options it has a whole list of advantages:

  1. Ease of installation. You can make such a stove with your own hands.
  2. Easy to use.
  3. Possibility of quick melting.
  4. Good traction.
  5. Economical fuel consumption.
  6. Affordable price.
  7. Good performance.

But in order to appreciate all these positive qualities, you need to learn how to use the stove correctly. Of course, a stone stove for a sauna is ideal. But it takes a long time to melt. Before it starts giving off heat, you will have to burn a lot of wood. Not everyone is happy with this scenario. In addition, a brick structure will cost several times more than a metal product covered with stone cladding on the outside.

To get the full benefit from your stove, you need to know how to use it.

It will not be possible to build a brick stove for a bathhouse without having the initial skills. It is important to take into account a number of nuances here. Concerning metal products, you can buy them at ready-made version. It will be possible to line the stove in the bathhouse with bricks on the outside without extra financial costs. You can create a stone apron around such a stove.

By itself, it will play the role of a kind of highlight in the interior. An apron is also required to improve productivity. This will also provide comfort to people in the immediate vicinity, because it is easier to get burned from stone or brick than from metal.

There are certain parameters that a metal sauna stove must have. First of all, this concerns its dimensions. It should not be allowed to clutter up the space. Other requirements:

  • compliance with standards fire safety;
  • not too high power.

In this video you will learn the pros and cons of a metal stove:

Large structures cannot be controlled by selecting them in accordance with your preferences and temperature conditions.

The place where the object stands is also important. In accordance with generally accepted standards, the metal unit must stand at a distance of at least 15 cm from wooden floors. It is better to add fuel in small quantities, but often.

The need for cladding

It is important to understand why it is necessary to line the boiler in this way. Experts point out that:

  1. Metal tends to heat up quickly. The human body simply does not have time to adapt to the high temperature.
  2. The metal cools down as quickly as it heats up. This implies the need for constant temperature monitoring. This is possible only by tossing logs on a regular basis, which is not entirely economical.


Material lined with brick will dry and heat the air more slowly. Accordingly, a more comfortable environment will reign in the steam room.

All of these shortcomings can be easily corrected using cladding. It neutralizes the harmful effects of metal and improves the aesthetic appearance of the structure. From the point of view of economy and labor costs, this is the most suitable option. IN in this case manages to combine the positive characteristics of stone and metal.

Factories produce stoves originally designed for brick cladding. This is a kind of golden mean that allows you to make a good steam room yourself. What kind of brick to line an iron stove in a bathhouse:

  • fireclay;
  • red ceramic.

Any other brick will fall off mortar or become cracked. And even more so, you should not take silicate: it is suitable for cladding a residential building, but for laying sauna stove you can't take it. It is made on the basis of lime, and therefore cannot withstand constant temperature changes.

The same applies to humidity, which is constantly present in the steam room. In less than a couple of weeks, sand-lime brick will begin to collapse. Its decorative qualities are not so good as to cover the stove in the bathhouse with bricks purely to give this object decorative qualities. Again, additional cladding will be required.

Fireclay bricks with fire-resistant properties are suitable for sudden temperature changes. It is not as beautiful as red ceramic, but it works well as a finishing material for decorative cladding. Its specific gravity is greater than that of red. This is a durable and reliable material with good technical properties. Anyone with basic skills can handle laying out a sauna stove. It's not a very complicated process.


There are several ways to cover a stove, for example, with red brick

Cladding methods

Cladding is a heat shield for metal structures. This means that it bears the brunt of the heat. There are several options:

  1. Continuous cladding. This ensures rapid heat transfer, which reduces the productivity of the furnace. This method is rarely used. It has decorative functions and does not particularly affect the efficiency of the design.
  2. Heat shield. It looks like a stone fence. Provides comfort to people who are close to the stove.
  3. Convector with vents. It is optimal for a bathhouse, as, regardless of the volume of the steam room, it improves the characteristics of any metal structure.

The optimal cladding scheme largely depends on the functionality of the stove. If it is purely decorative, then it is allowed to lay out a thick layer using whole bricks. If you plan to form a water heater, it is enough to make half-brick masonry.

There must be a gap between the metal body and the stone screen. To calculate its performance, add 2 cm to the standard 3 cm for each kilowatt of power. If this indicator for the stove is 12 kW, then the gap can be a maximum of 20 cm. If this parameter is larger, then the stove will not perform its functions.

Work algorithm

Before you start lining the sauna stove with bricks, you should prepare the material and tools. You should take solid ceramic brick M-150. You will also need oven clay and sand to prepare masonry mortar, and materials for the foundation. These are sand, crushed stone and cement.

You will need boards to make formwork, roofing felt and reinforcing mesh. Tools you can't do without a shovel and a building level. To measure you will need a tape measure, a construction marker and a protractor. Other required tools include a plumb line and a trowel.

Before starting work, determine the location of the object. It is better if it is a corner of the room: this will reduce the consumption of bricks. You can build a brick base by raising it 50 cm above the floor level.

If the construction of a bathhouse is being carried out from scratch, care should be taken to arrange the foundation and protect the wooden floors. To improve fire safety, it is necessary to lay basalt slabs on wooden walls and floors in the area where the furnace is located. Self-tapping screws are used for secure fastening.

Construction of the foundation

The strength of the structure and how long it will last depends on the foundation. It also happens that the old foundation fully meets the requirements. But if this is not the case, it is better to spend time and effort building a new structure. It should be taken into account that its weight after finishing work will increase significantly. Under no circumstances should you connect the foundation for the furnace to the main foundation of the building. The base should not be subject to deformation.

If the total mass of the furnace with brickwork is no more than 700 kg, no foundation is required. If there is an old metal stove in the room, it will need to be dismantled. After determining the location of the object, draw a rectangle along the floor surface with a marker. Boards are cut according to its contours. They need to be put aside for a while and work on arranging a pit 40 cm deep. For this you will need a bayonet shovel. Form the formwork necessary for the foundation.

Floor boards and pieces of plywood are suitable here. They must be connected and placed inside the recess. After this, waterproofing is started. This is one of the most important stages at work. In the presence of wet and soaked soil, the foundation will be constantly exposed to adverse effects and will sooner or later collapse.

As soon as the formwork is waterproofed and fixed, a cushion is installed. It will retain moisture. Pour medium-fraction crushed stone and sand onto the surface of the pit, pour cement mortar and put metal mesh. Level with building level. Next, the foundation is left to cool. This process may take up to 3 weeks.

Arrangement of the base

After the foundation has completely cooled, the base is laid out. Install waterproofing based on roofing felt. A plywood sheet is laid on top of which a metal stove will be built. Cover the top of the oven with polyethylene so that you don’t have to clean the surface of the solution later.

Next, the solution is prepared. It is better to take a mixture of clay and cement for this. There are no exact proportions; they are guided by consistency: the mixture should resemble thick sour cream and be homogeneous. Stove makers recommend taking equal proportions of clay and cement, adding 30% river sand. Stir the dry mixture in a bucket and then add it to the water. The liquid must be added little by little to prevent lumps from forming.

Stir with a drill or mixer and leave to thicken for 40 minutes. You should not prepare the entire volume of the solution if you have doubts about carrying out all the work in one day. It is better to knead as much as is required for masonry in a separate period of time. If the composition hardens, it will be difficult to work with.


When laying bricks, you don’t have to mix the whole mortar at once

Preparing and laying bricks

Calculate how many bricks will be needed for initial stage, after which they clean it and soak it in water for 12 hours. This is a mandatory procedure, since the material tends to absorb liquid from the solution . You can select installation options:

  • lattice;
  • a solid well.

The first one is more beautiful, as it has many holes. At the same time, it is this feature that leads to a decrease in the efficiency of the heat shield. If the body heating equipment has rounded shapes, the material is laid in accordance with the shape of the object.

Of course, this approach will require significant effort, but the arrangement of the rows will not change. A distance of less than 5 cm should be left between the metal and the stone. There is no need to install spacers and lintels. The metal will begin to expand when heated, which will put pressure on the brick.

An average oven usually requires 13 to 15 rows of bricks. It is better to carry out the work in several stages. In 1 day it is enough to lay 7 rows and leave them overnight. The next day, they check how well the structure has shrinked, after which they begin to complete the remaining rows. The thickness of the masonry is half a brick.

Some craftsmen prefer to finish the installation process at the slab level, where the coals are located. This is an interesting approach that allows you to admire beautiful view hot coals. Others, on the contrary, cover the outlet pipe with brickwork.

When the oven operates, its surface becomes very hot. For safety, the device is located at a certain distance from the walls: no less meters For metal structures And half a meter for brick.

But this arrangement is not always convenient, especially in small rooms. To avoid damage to surfaces and, especially, fire, install protective screens. They also promote gentle heating and protect against burns.

How can you cover a stove in your home?

Most often, furnace screens are made made of brick or metal. These materials are available and no specialized equipment is required to work with them.

For masonry they take refractory brick: regular red or clinker. Silicate is not suitable. The material is held together with a clay mortar (sometimes with the addition of cement or lime), which can withstand high temperatures without destruction.

It is better to choose from metals stainless steel. It is not afraid of dampness and does not emit harmful substances when heated, like galvanized steel. For mounting to the walls of the room, it is advisable to choose polished sheets, not matte. Then the heat rays will be reflected from the surface. This will reduce the heating of the walls, and the temperature in the room will rise faster.

Types of protective screens for furnaces

For air movement and better heating of the room, the protection is located a few centimeters from the walls. At the bottom of the structure are made gaps: gaps are left in the brickwork for this purpose, metal sheets are installed on legs.

Reference. When using brickwork, the room warms up more slowly, but comfortable temperature lasts longer.

Such screens are placed on the sides facing the room. And to protect walls, especially wooden ones, they sheathe.

Important! Lateral and frontal screens are used only for metal stoves. Protection of nearby walls needed and brick structures.

Size screens depends on size and power ovens. The chosen material also matters. At the same time, make the necessary gap between the screen and the stove, otherwise it will overheat.

Metal

Metal protection is installed at a distance no less than 1-5 cm from the stove itself. Distance to wooden wall there must be no less than 38 cm.

If the screen is attached directly to the wall, you must isolate it from the outgoing heat. Then the following scheme is applied:

  1. At a distance of about 3 cm stacked from the wall thermal insulation layer. To create a gap, the material is not attached directly to the wall, but through slats or metal pipes.
  2. on top of it metal is installed protection.
  3. The screen is made so large that it is higher and wider than the stove by a meter.

Advice. The air gap makes it possible additional cooling.

There should also be a small distance between the floor and the screen. Protection is broadcast on the wall 3-5 cm from the floor. When floor mounted, the screen is mounted on special legs. Another option is to make holes in the bottom of the sheet.

Brick around an iron stove

As a rule, masonry is carried out half a brick. This provides sufficient protection, but at the same time does not interfere with warming up. Sometimes other options are used. When laying a quarter brick, the protective properties are reduced, and the heat becomes less mild, but the room warms up faster. But the distance to the walls should be greater than the minimum.

If the masonry is thicker, a whole brick, the room will take longer to warm up. But this shield becomes a heat accumulator, that is, it gives off heat after the wood burns out.

Dimensions are calculated as follows:

  1. The screen height should be 20 cm more stoves. The masonry along the wall is sometimes extended all the way to the ceiling.
  2. Distance from the stove to the edge of the shield there should be 5—15 cm.

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For cast iron stove

Cast iron occupies an intermediate place in terms of heat-conducting properties. It's heating up things got worse, but better than brick , and cools down, respectively, longer than the first and faster than the second. Therefore, the protective screen is installed according to special rules. A brick for him placed on the side, that is, the wall extends into a quarter of a brick. In this case, less material will be required, otherwise the technology remains the same.

How to build a stove screen with your own hands

To arrange protection, first of all you need to choose suitable scheme. Then materials are selected, tools are prepared and work begins.

Scheme selection

Choosing a scheme take into account dimensions ovens, material walls and distance before them. The screen can be located near the wall or at a distance from it.

Photo 1. Scheme of installing a stove in a house, according to fire safety rules. The required distance is indicated.

Brick version requires a long warm-up, but creates more comfortable atmosphere. Over time, under load, bricks may begin to fall out, so the metal option is considered more reliable. Another advantage is that it requires less space.

Important! A brick screen is being installed on the same basis, which is what to bake. Therefore, it is advisable to provide for it in advance. If the base does not protrude enough beyond the stove, a steel screen is used.

Preparation of materials

For brickwork, refractory bricks are used: red solid or clinker. Silicate material is not suitable for these purposes. It is easier to find out how many bricks you will need if you already have a small amount of them. To do this, post single layer material around the stove, leaving a small distance. Most likely it will work square 3X3 or 4X4. If there is no building material at all, you will have to perform these calculations based on the size of the selected type of screen.

This is how they determine how many bricks are needed for one row. Then the required number of levels is calculated. To do this, take into account the height of one brick and the entire wall. Often 11-12 rows are obtained, although sometimes more or less is required.

Before laying bricks soaked in cold water . Half an hour or a little more time is enough for this.

Used for masonry clay mortar. Clay is mixed with sand in proportion 1 share of clay to 2-3 sand. Sometimes some of the clay is replaced cement. Already on sale ready-made mixtures, which can simply be diluted with water.

The quality of the solution is checked in this way: use a trowel to rake the solution to the side; it should hold a mark, but not tear. If the solution spreads, add more mixture; if it is too dry, add water.

For a metal screen take:

You will also need heat-insulating materials:

  • basaltic cardboard;
  • asbestos cardboard;
  • mineralite slab.

Dimensions steel sheet may be smaller than the future screen. Then their number is calculated in such a way that overlapping installation is possible. The amount of thermal insulation is determined for end-to-end installation.

Advice. It is better to take materials with little stock.

Tools

For the manufacture of brick shield you will need:

  • Master OK;
  • construction mixer;
  • level;
  • container for solution;
  • fishing line or boards for marking.

For steel structure you will need:

  • drill;
  • screwdriver;
  • metal scissors;
  • roulette;
  • level.

Once the desired scheme has been selected, and materials and tools have been prepared, begin construction.

Brickwork

Before starting work soak brick for 30-40 minutes. While it is soaking, mark the outlines of the building. To do this, it is convenient to use a stretched fishing line or boards, under which bricks or bars are placed.

If the floor is wooden, be sure to place it under future masonry. thermal protection. It is attached with self-tapping screws or special adhesive composition.

First row placed on the solution starting from the corner. Next is carried out from the same angle, but a brick mat is laid so that the seams do not match.

Above the following levels are placed. For strengthening, they are placed between them. narrow strips of reinforced mesh. The evenness of the masonry is checked with a level both horizontally and vertically.

In the second or third row make holes for cold air. To do this, lay a brick at half the distance from the previous one. Then add another half or whole, and after that, continue as usual.

Such gaps are made on both sides. If the oven is powerful, they make more of them.

Don't forget to leave holes for ash pan and firebox. The opening is blocked from above. For this, a steel angle is used.

Important! Until the solution dries, drown stove it is forbidden. It must dry at a constant temperature.

Installation of a metal shield

Mark the location of the screen on the wall. He must be at a distance of 3-5 cm from the floor, and the height and width are a meter more than stove ones.

Placed on the wall with a small gap heat insulating material. To do this, you can use special ceramic bushings, slats or tubes.