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Splendid in the splendor and variety of shades of their inflorescences, bush phloxes are deservedly loved by gardeners not only for their external advantages, but also because they are very unpretentious (except for a couple of details).

To decorate your area with colorful blooms, you need to know the features of planting flowers and mandatory care.

Optimal growing conditions

Bush phloxes feel good both in sunlit areas and in partial shade. But still a few better conditions for them, light shading, diffused rather than direct natural light, is considered.

The fact is that the plant’s strength is exhausted when the soil at the rhizome and in general overheats. They cannot fully grow in direct sunlight, absorb nutrients from the soil, or be saturated with air and moisture when watering. If you adjust the lighting, phlox will respond with longer flowering (for a whole month) and brighter colors of the inflorescences.

In areas where winds and drafts blow, flowers cannot be directly damaged (wither), but they can easily lose the neat shape of the bushes, to avoid which they are tied up.

The soil

Phloxes are quite demanding of quality soil. The optimal types of soil are loamy and sandy loam, necessarily dug up repeatedly and deeply, lightened by careful loosening and moistened (but not so moist that there is a possibility of waterlogging of the soil), saturated with fertilizers.

Healthy formation of greenery and full flowering of bush phlox is simply impossible to achieve on sandy, dried out, compacted lands.

Planting

Planting phlox begins with “improving” the area intended for them. It must be fed with organic matter (humus and compost), nitrogen, potassium and phosphate fertilizers. They will be most effective in the form of bone meal, wood ash and potassium nitrate with superphosphate.

If the soil is heavy or clayey, it is diluted with sand; if, on the contrary, it is too light, it is diluted with humus and compost.

After applying fertilizer, dig up the area, get rid of weeds and stones, crushing clods of earth.

When marking the territory of the future flower garden, bush phloxes are recommended to be planted with low-growing varieties at a distance of 40 cm, medium-growing varieties - 50-60 cm, tall varieties - 70 cm.

It is necessary to remove completely thinned, tiny, damaged and dry roots from the root system of the plant.

When planting phlox, it is very important not to bury them at the same level as the soil (and in no case below it). It should be located at the location of the growth points and renewal buds, the growth of new leaves.

For accuracy in such a responsible arrangement of flowers, it is useful to focus on the rhizome. The seedlings must be placed so that the tops of the roots are 2.5-3 cm from the soil level.

Phlox is planted not only in spring, but also in autumn - from mid-September to the first ten days of October. At this time, they have already formed renewal buds, but are still able to take root well and settle in a new place before the onset of frost.

Less commonly, phlox is planted in the summer. In this case, plants in full bloom become seedlings, however, after planting, the plant loses this beauty. The inflorescences need to be completely removed, so anyway, as a result, the season for them will be lost.

Its importance in caring for phlox can hardly be overestimated. Plants need constantly moist soil and are especially demanding of regular watering in spring and early summer, when they actively grow, produce buds and bloom luxuriantly. It is better if the water is settled, warm and should be poured directly into the grooves, carefully, without haste, avoiding even lightly splashing the leaves. Flowers that are generally thirsty for water will, unfortunately, respond to such irrigation by increasing the risk of infection powdery mildew.

Fertilizers

Timely and complete provision of phlox plantings with nutritional supplements is one of the main conditions for lush and healthy growth.

It is optimal to plan for phlox to apply fertilizer 3 times per season:

• The first is at the stage of emergence of new young leaves and shoots. Nitrogen fertilizers, humus and compost are applied or watered abundantly with a complex of mineral fertilizers.
• The second is when phlox produces its first buds. Optimal choice will become like a special mixture for flowering garden plants, and the set mineral elements.
• The third is at the end of the last flowering. It is most advisable to feed plants with phosphorus and potassium during this period, which promotes the formation of strong buds for the next season and the ripening of rhizomes. The choice can be made in favor of half a portion of mineral elements and compost or a standard volume of potassium sulfate and superphosphate.

Mulching and weed control

Phlox are quite demanding when it comes to mulching. Every year a new layer needs to be created. During the season you need to take care of its quality. Thus, the soil on which phloxes grow will be protected from compaction, drying out and excessive overheating, which will contribute to the healthy development of the root system and the formation of powerful flower stalks.

If there is mulch, you will not need to periodically weed out weeds.

Support

In case of frequent drafts or cross winds, it is recommended to tie up bush phloxes to maintain their fullness and shape. To do this, you need to wrap the bush with a lace or soft twine and secure it to one or more posts (the so-called circular bandage method).

Diseases and pests

The most dangerous disease for flowers is the phlox nematode, which affects leaves and shoots. As a result, the bushes slow down their development and gradually die. It is easy to recognize because the leaves dried by it become like narrow ribbons. Unfortunately, it is impossible to cure plants from it.

In order not to aggravate the situation, they are dug up with a large lump of soil and destroyed. And for another 3 years, it is unacceptable to grow anything closely related in the place of their former habitat. For example, you cannot plant gypsophila and primroses.

Phlox can quickly become infected with the above-mentioned powdery mildew from other plants, for example, from roses. And fortunately, in this case drastic measures are not required - it is enough to spray the fungus with fungicides.

To complete the treatment and prevent the spread of the disease, after pruning the plants before wintering, it is necessary to disinfect the soil. To do this, water the ground with a solution of copper sulfate, prepared at the rate of 100 g per 10 liters of water. Such treatment can be carried out in order to prevent infection and to increase the resistance of plantings to powdery mildew next year.

At the end of autumn, when the phloxes have bloomed, but before the first frost hits, all the shoots are cut off from them, leaving literally only stumps that rise 5-6 cm above the ground.

Next, the phloxes need to be covered with a good layer of dry peat, pine needles, fallen leaves. Despite the winter hardiness of plants, severe frosts can damage their root system if there is no protective snow cover on the ground.

Flowers need to be insulated in case there is not enough snow and just like that, for additional prevention.

Reproduction

Breeding of summer-blooming bush phlox occurs by vegetative methods. Although stem cuttings cut in the spring can be rooted well, the “number” of flowers is usually increased by dividing adult bushes.

Growing in one place for many years. The nutritional value of the soil in which they are grown gradually decreases. Which certainly affects the flowering and appearance of plants. To achieve active development and lush flowering, it is important to know what to feed phloxes during their growing season.

Composition of fertilizer for phlox

Fertile, cultivated soil for planting and growing phlox is an important condition for their lush flowering. But the supply of nutrition added to the soil during planting is not enough for flowers, since they are mainly used by plants in the first year of planting. Some of them are washed away or absorbed by the soil. Therefore, phloxes need to be fed regularly every growing season.

In order for phlox to bloom beautifully and luxuriantly, they need fertilizing.

For lush flowering in the garden, phlox needs mineral and organic fertilizers in combination. Organic matter is the main source of nitrogen, which is very important for phlox to grow green mass.

The following types of fertilizers are used as organic nitrogen fertilizers:

• Mullein. It is prepared by filling a third of a bucket of half-rotted manure with water. After thorough stirring, the solution is diluted with three more buckets of water and used for root feeding.
• Slurry. 1.5 liters of liquid are poured with 10 liters of water, then poured into beards made around phlox bushes.
• Bird droppings. The most effective is chicken manure, which is far superior in nutritional benefits to cow manure. For feeding, prepare a solution: 1 kilogram of droppings is poured with 10 liters of water. Fertilizer is applied to the furrows at the rate of 1.5 liters per square.

Important. Fresh manure is contraindicated for phlox. He calls root rot and plant death.

All fertilizing is carried out after watering or rain. Applying fertilizer to dry soil reduces its effectiveness by almost half, and if the concentration is exceeded, it burns the roots and provokes their rotting. Fertilizers are applied at the base of the bush, without getting on the leaves.

To feed phlox, you can use manure or litter diluted in water.

Terms and rules for feeding phlox

Fertilizers for phlox are used in strict accordance with the need for nutrients according to the phases of vegetative development, the characteristics of root growth and soil composition. With a focus on these factors, the composition of fertilizers during the growing season is regulated.

Feeding during planting

Preparing the soil and filling it necessary plants nutrients - the first stage of feeding phlox. The structure of the soil is improved by adding humus and rotted compost. It is recommended to add 1 bucket of compost or humus per square to loams. Additionally, 50 grams of superphosphate, 200 grams of wood ash, and 100 grams of bone meal are added to the planting holes.

If acidic soils predominate on the site, they need to be limed. On square meter add 150-200 grams of fluff per square. In heavy soils add 2 buckets of sand and 100 grams of lime.

Before placing phlox in planting holes, complex mineral fertilizer is added to the soil at the rate of a tablespoon per hole.

Features of organizing additional feeding in spring

In spring, fertilizer for phlox is sprinkled on the ground around the plants.

The first feeding of phloxes is carried out in early spring, still in the snow. Nitrogen or mineral mixtures are scattered on the snow in the area with phlox. Per square meter use 20 grams of ammonium nitrate, 60 grams of superphosphate, a glass of ash.

Nutrients penetrate deep into the soil along with melt water and are evenly distributed in the soil, where they are absorbed by the root system. If the snow has already melted, the fertilizer should be scattered over the surface and loosened to a depth of 3-5 centimeters.

Alternative option spring feeding– mulching with humus or compost mixed with urea. For every three young or two adult phlox bushes, you need a bucket of well-rotted humus and two tablespoons of urea.

Feeding before and during flowering

In June, during the formation of buds, phloxes need fertilizing with organic fertilizers: chicken droppings, mullein or slurry. If there is no such fertilizer, use ammonium nitrate - 30 grams per 10 liters. This amount is consumed per 1 square meter.

During flowering, which occurs in July, phloxes are fed with nitrogen-potassium compounds:

• Chicken manure with the addition of 20 grams of superphosphate and potassium sulfate.
• Agricola for flowers.
• Organic mixture "Flower".

Late-flowering phlox require another feeding in August with phosphorus-potassium mixtures.

Autumn feeding

And the purpose of feeding at this time is to restore strength after flowering. Feeding during this period promotes the formation of new flower buds in winter and the ripening of rhizomes to withstand frost.

In autumn, phloxes are fed with a mixture of potassium phosphate and superphosphate.

Autumn feeding is carried out in liquid or dry form:

1. Phloxes are watered with a solution of potassium sulfate and superphosphate, a tablespoon of each. Minerals are dissolved in 10 liters of water and used to water 1 square meter of plantings.
2. A bucket of peat or compost is scattered around the bush with the addition of 2 tablespoons of phosphorus-potassium mixture or the same amount of the special composition “Autumn”. This amount of fertilizer is used for 3 bushes.

All fertilizing must be completed no later than the end of August. Fertilizing at a later date will cause new shoots to grow, which will weaken the plant and prevent them from overwintering safely.

Foliar feeding

An effective method of adding additional nutrition to phloxes is outside root dressings. The leaves of these plants are able to absorb microelements as well as the roots. Spraying with fertilizers can be combined with treatment with insecticides or antifungal drugs.

The option of foliar feeding is especially important for enriching plants with phosphorus. This substance is difficult to dissolve, and when added to the soil it is absorbed by it. Foliar phosphorus fertilization has a positive effect on photosynthesis processes in foliage. This method of fertilizing is especially effective for bushes older than 3 years.

Phlox can be sprayed with liquid fertilizers.

Feeding with various microelements has a beneficial effect on plant development:

• Foliar phosphorus fertilizing causes intense flowering on the main and lateral shoots. The inflorescences last longer on the bushes and have a rich color.
• Foliar nitrogen fertilizing causes the growth of additional side shoots.
• Foliar fertilizing with potassium permanganate affects early flowering phlox and the brightness of the inflorescences.
• Phosphorus-potassium fertilizing is applied at the end of flowering and promotes its continuation.

Important. For foliar spraying, solutions of low concentration, not more than 0.1%, are used. High concentrations of fertilizers in solutions can cause burns of leaves and shoots. They get covered yellow spots and spoil appearance bushes

Phloxes receiving a complex of nutrients produce lush, large inflorescences of rich colors. For the winter, it is useful to mulch the area with phlox with pine compost, but it is not available to everyone.

Proper feeding allows you to grow phlox bushes in one place for 7-8 years. After this, the bushes are rejuvenated, transplanted to an area with new soil, or the soil is replaced in landing pits. Lack of nutrition causes accelerated aging of bushes and the formation of small, few inflorescences.

Fragrant bushes of bright red, pink, purple or white phlox can decorate any garden or home area. They are able to bloom from the end of June until frost, delighting those around with lush caps of inflorescences and a tart aroma.

However, you need to understand that only proper care In the spring, following phlox will allow you to achieve their abundant summer flowering. We’ll talk about methods of replanting, frequency of watering, and fertilizing these picky garden flowers in our article.

Phlox are herbaceous perennials with a straight, ascending or even stem. The height of the bush can reach 10-130 cm depending on the type (there are about 40 of them in gardening). The plant has elongated lanceolate leaves, fragrant flowers, collected in lush inflorescences. The color varies from white and light pink to purple, crimson, and burgundy.

In spring, the perennial quickly begins to grow, immediately after the snow melts, so care should begin in April. In the first phase of development, when shoots form above ground, the plant absorbs a lot of water and needs feeding.

In early May, intensive foliage growth begins, buds are laid; phlox also needs nutrients, primarily nitrogen. By the end of May, during the beginning of flowering, there is a need for potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.

It is important to know. The root system of phlox is located close to the surface; every year the growth buds protrude higher and higher, so spring loosening and mulching must be done very carefully so as not to damage the roots. That is why for the winter it is advisable to cover the bushes with a layer of humus, rotted manure or sawdust, and lightly cover them with earth.

Growing conditions

To achieve beautiful flowering phlox, you need to choose the right place for planting, make sure that the area is not in the shade and the soil remains moist. Each bush should have no more than 7-8 stems; only such specimens bloom profusely and luxuriantly throughout the summer.

• Choosing a location. When planting or replanting phlox, you need to choose well-moistened areas with groundwater close to the surface. Fragrant perennials love both partial shade and sunny places, you can plant them near fences, next to trees, shrubs, and other garden plants. It is best to place the plantings on a slight slope or hill, this will avoid rotting of the roots due to stagnation of water in the soil. The optimal place in the garden is southwest, east or southeast, where there are no drafts and there are barriers from the cold wind.
• Lighting. Unpretentious phlox tolerate light shading without problems, but love diffused sunlight. With constant bright light, the flowers will become paler, the colors will lose their intense color, and in the shade the inflorescences will become crushed.

• Temperature. The garden plant is considered a cold-resistant crop. Optimal indicator for flowering - from 17 to 25 degrees Celsius. It is advisable to keep the roots warm, so the best option is to plant them in raised heated flower beds.
• Air humidity. The indicator should be within 60-70%. There is no need to specially spray the bushes; spring rains are enough for them, but in extreme heat and during prolonged drought it is advisable to water the flowers with a watering can or hose, spraying water around the flowerbed.
• Soil requirements. The soil must meet two requirements - be nutritious and loose. The best option For growing phlox, loamy soil (pH 5.5-7.0) is considered. They loosen it with compost, manure, peat, turf, sprinkling it with wood ash and river sand.

It is important to know. If the soil is acidic, it must be limed beforehand. Poor soil is enriched with manure before planting, sandy soil with peat, clay soil with manure and sand.

Caring for phlox in spring

When breeding phlox, it is important to adhere to certain growing rules. Caring for phlox in the spring should consist of regular watering, pruning, rooting, loosening and mulching the soil.

• Watering. Phlox are moisture-loving plants, so watering should be plentiful and regular. If it rains often in spring or groundwater is located close to the surface, the bushes will have enough moisture. However, in dry and hot weather they must be watered, and when the leaves turn yellow, they must also be sprayed. About 12-15 liters of water should be poured under each bush, trying not to splash on the flowers. There should be no stagnation of moisture, so the soil should be loosened periodically.
• Feeding. Phlox should be fertilized every month in the spring, using complex compounds and natural organic matter. In April, you can feed the bushes with nitrogen-containing mixtures, chicken droppings, urea or saltpeter. At the end of May, it is advisable to add phosphorus-containing fertilizers to the soil - superphosphate, bone meal, and potassium-containing fertilizers - ash, saltpeter, potassium salt.

• Trimming. Gardeners carry out the main pruning in the fall, removing faded inflorescences and shortening the stems by half. In the spring, the procedure is performed when the snow melts and the flower beds dry out. Cut dried stems to ground level or leave small “stumps” up to 10 cm high. For convenience, you can use pruners or simply break them off with your hands. Subsequent pruning will be required if the plant has sent out too many shoots and after the caps have faded.

Transfer

It is better to transplant rhizomes in spring (April-May) or autumn (September). IN autumn period The stems should be trimmed, leaving one third. It is recommended to replant the bush every 3-4 years, dividing the rhizomes into parts. This stimulates more luxuriant and longer flowering. The procedure is carried out in several stages.

1. Dig out an earthen ball with a shovel or pitchfork, being careful not to damage it.
2. Remove excess soil and inspect the roots.
3. If necessary, divide the rhizome into 2-3 parts with a shovel.
4. Dig a hole about 25 cm deep, add humus and sand.
5. Place the root, sprinkle the sides with loose soil, and tamp with your palms.
6. Regularly loosen the soil after replanting, and water every 3 days for the first 3 weeks.
7. The gaps are mulched with mowed grass or peat and weeded.

Reproduction

Reproduce perennial phlox three ways.

1. Seeds.
2. By cuttings.
3. By dividing the rhizome.

The last method is considered the most popular among gardeners; it is the simplest. When dividing the rhizome, it is cut with a sharp knife or a shovel blade, the sections are sprinkled with crushed charcoal, then buried in the prepared soil. Most often, this method is used to rejuvenate a bush when transplanting to a new location.

For propagation by cuttings, young shoots are cut at the end of spring. They are planted in containers with soil, covered with a jar and wait for rooting. With the seed method, purchased or independently collected seeds sown at the end of May either directly into the ground, sprinkled with earth, or in containers for seedlings.

The soil is moistened, the bowls are covered with film, and ventilated periodically. Two weeks after emergence, the seedlings are fed with slurry, then planted in cups.

Diseases and pests

Garden phloxes are quite resistant to diseases and pests, but can sometimes be affected by spotting, powdery mildew, nematodes and slugs. The following control methods are used for treatment and prevention.

• Spotting. Remove diseased leaves and water the plant with Bordeaux mixture.
• Powdery mildew. The diseased flower is dug up and destroyed.
• Fomoz. For prevention, the leaves and stems are sprinkled with colloidal sulfur when the street temperature exceeds 18˚C.
• Septoria. Treat the bushes and soil with Bordeaux mixture.
• Nematodes. The flower is dug up and the stems and roots are burned.
• Caterpillars, slugs. The green mass is watered with insecticides and treated with Karate, Kinmiks, and Fury preparations.

Spring care for phlox will be beneficial if you do not make mistakes during watering, fertilizing, and replanting. Here are some tips for those new to gardening.

• Do not water plants in hot weather cold water, otherwise all the stems will crack.
• It is forbidden to replant bushes on the ridges where they grew before. garden strawberries, otherwise pest invasions on stems and foliage cannot be avoided.
• When planting, the soil must be dug to a depth of 30-40 cm, and the plants should be planted at a distance of at least 50-70 cm from each other.
• If the bushes are not replanted for more than 5-7 years, they gradually degenerate and die.
• It is better to plant and replant in cloudy weather, before or after rain.
• It is imperative to weed the flower beds, especially if the seedlings are young, otherwise the weeds will choke out the phlox seedlings.

Successful cultivation of phlox

Where is the best place to plant phlox?

When choosing a place to plant phlox, let's remember the biological characteristics of these beautiful plants and the growing conditions of their wild relatives. As already mentioned, they grow in areas with a moderately warm and very humid climate, where there is often no snow in winter (about 4 ° C), on loose, non-overheated, moist soils with sufficient organic matter. As a rule, these are either meadows, floodplains, or forest edges, creating a unique microclimate with several high humidity air. What are the conditions for growing phlox and their best location in our garden? One of the main requirements is the ability to water phlox abundantly. Even in places with close groundwater, during periods of prolonged drought, phloxes suffer greatly from drying out. Second the most important condition successful cultivation phlox - high soil fertility.

Phlox plantings can be planted both in open areas and in light partial shade. They will still be the best open areas in gardens, parks, where phlox, having sufficiently high illumination, will be protected by scenes of bushes or rare trees, at the edge of the forest, in clearings and along paths in parks. In addition to a microclimate with slightly higher humidity, light shade during hot midday hours is desirable, especially for bright and dark-colored varieties. Such places in gardens and parks, as a rule, accumulate snow better, and phlox suffer less from sharp fluctuations temperatures in winter.

The site should have some slope so that during snow melting and prolonged rainy weather the phloxes are not flooded with water. Slopes where the soil quickly overheats and dries out are unfavorable for growing phlox. In addition, on the slopes, phloxes suffer from winds; snow is often blown out there in winter, and if there is insufficient snow cover, phloxes can freeze out. If the site has very close groundwater, then this is still better than open areas on slopes. But in such conditions, phlox is planted in raised beds and flower beds along with other moisture-loving perennials. Places under the crowns of trees with a shallow root system (birch, poplar, willow, old lilac bushes, spruce) will also be unsuitable for growing phlox.

A flower garden with phlox can be arranged on the east, southeast, southwest and west sides of the house. The worst place for phlox will be from the northern part of the house and in the shade coniferous trees. Although phlox will survive in such conditions, it will be impossible to achieve full flowering from them.

Phlox is a fairly cold-resistant crop and can be grown in areas with harsh climates. In the northern regions of the European part of Russia with short summers, phlox are placed in areas protected from cold winds and open on the south, south-east and south-west sides, in raised heated flower beds with good winter shelter. In this case, preference should be given to varieties with a shorter growing season, i.e., early and early-middle varieties, completely abandoning mid-late and late varieties.

The sharply continental climate of Siberia, the Altai Territory, and the Urals with cold, often little snow winters is even more different from the conditions natural growth Phlox. Therefore, in these areas, phlox is planted in well-lit places with the greatest accumulation of snow, protected from the wind. For the winter, it is necessary to cover with peat, fallen leaves, covering material such as agril, lutrasil in several layers. And here you should grow varieties with more early dates flowering.

In the southern regions, the most humid places are chosen for planting phlox, protected from drying winds, in light partial shade, under the protection of trees, high fences and walls of houses, and scenes of tall bushes. One more suitable place there will be banks for planting phlox fresh water bodies. For the southern zones, preference is given to later varieties.

How to properly prepare the soil

One of the myths about phlox is that they grow well in any soil and a fertile layer 15 cm deep is sufficient for them. Phlox are very resilient, hardy plants, however, for their successful cultivation and good long-term flowering, it is necessary to properly prepare the soil for planting.

Every year, varietal garden phloxes form many stems, leaves, and flower caps, consuming a lot of moisture and nutrients. If the plants are not provided with the necessary nutrition, then for some time they will use the reserves accumulated in the rhizomes, and then begin to deplete, and get good flowering impossible under such conditions. Phlox adapt to poor nutrition, but in appearance they become similar to their wild relatives - they have thin, low stems, inflorescences consist of several small flowers.

The best for phlox are medium loamy, fertile, loose and moist soils, slightly acidic or close to neutral (pH from 5.5 to 7). The best effect on the development and flowering of phlox is the addition of decomposed horse or cow dung, composts, leaf humus, ash in combination with mineral fertilizers and organomineral mixtures.

The root system of phlox is powerful, branched and reaches a depth of 25 and even 30 cm. The bulk of the feeding roots are located at a depth of up to 20 cm, so the depth of the soil layer prepared for planting should be no less than a spade bayonet. If you want long and luxurious flowering of phlox for more than one year, then make a flower bed about 30 cm deep.

It is advisable to prepare the soil for planting phlox in advance, that is, for spring plantings - in the fall, and for autumn plantings - at least a couple of weeks in advance. It should have a uniform structure and settle well. First, from the area intended for phlox, it is necessary to remove stones, construction debris and remove perennial weeds (wheatgrass, wheatgrass, sow thistle, bindweed, etc.) using one of the available herbicides (Roundup).

On heavy clay soils then add coarse river sand, compost, lowland peat, well-rotted manure, lime (250-300 g per 1 m2), mineral fertilizers. The soil is repeatedly dug up by hand, achieving a uniform, loose, finely lumpy structure, or plowed with a motor cultivator. Sandy loam soils need to be made more moisture-absorbing and nutritious. For this purpose, clay, turf soil, compost or manure, and the necessary mineral fertilizers are added to the planting of phlox. If it is necessary to lim the soil, it should be taken into account that at the same acidity, the dose of lime on loamy and clayey soils should be higher than on sandy and sandy loam soils. So, on sandy loam soils at a pH of 5.4-5.5, it is necessary to add about 200 g of lime per 1 m2, with the same acidity on heavy loamy and clay soils - 350 g per 1 m2.

If the soil practically consists of only sand, then, having determined the location and configuration of the flower bed, sand is taken out over its entire area to a depth of 45-50 cm and the bottom is lined with clay with a layer of 15-20 cm. Then prepared mixed soil is poured, compacted and watered abundantly . The same is done in any areas that are completely unsuitable for growing phlox, i.e. in places with a large content of construction waste and stones. The height of the already settled bed of a flower bed or bed for planting phlox should be on average about 15 cm. It is determined based on the specific conditions for growing phlox - soil, climate, height of groundwater, type of flower bed, purpose of planting. On sandy soils, the height of the flower bed should be lower to more successfully maintain soil moisture, and for collection plantings of phlox, the area can not be raised at all. On flooded soils with close standing groundwater, the height of the flower bed is raised to 20 cm. Ridges for growing phlox from cuttings - cuttings and shkolka, i.e. places for growing planting material phloxes are planted higher - 20-25 cm in damp, well-warmed places with some artificially created shading.

Mineral fertilizers play a huge role in the development of phlox. Nitrogen fertilizers stimulate the growth and development of plants. With a lack of nitrogen in the phlox diet, the color of the leaves becomes paler, the formation of leaves and the growth of the plant slow down. With sufficient nitrogen nutrition, the leaves acquire a dark green color, the plant grows quickly, forming lush bush. With an excess of nitrogen, the bush often falls apart due to cracking of the stems, the inflorescences take on an atypical shape; the color of the flowers becomes less pronounced. Nitrogen fertilizers are often used in the form of fertilizing, since they are quickly washed out of the soil (ammonium nitrate, urea, etc.). For planting, nitrogen fertilizers are used in complex combination with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers (azophoska, nitroammophoska, etc.).

Phosphorus fertilizers stimulate more luxuriant flowering and seed ripening, increase resistance to adverse weather conditions, fungal and other diseases. With a lack of phosphorus, carbohydrate and protein metabolism in the plant is disrupted. Phosphorus fertilizers are applied before planting. The most accessible and effective phosphorus fertilizers are superphosphate and double superphosphate. It is used on all soils. On clay and loamy soils, superphosphate can be applied in the fall. Phosphorus fertilizers also include bone meal, which is now very rare, but is a good fertilizer that can be used for a long time by plants.

Potassium fertilizers increase the winter hardiness of plants, resistance against diseases, promote the formation of higher quality typical inflorescences, and longer flowering. Potassium deficiency can be determined by the presence of a brown, drying rim around the leaf.

The doses of fertilizers that need to be applied to a given area are expressed by the amount of a specific nutrient (kg/ha or g/m2). Knowing the percentage of the required substance in a particular fertilizer, which is necessarily indicated on the package, and the recommended rate of the nutrient, it is easy to calculate the required amount of fertilizer for the required area.

The rates of fertilizers applied before planting phlox on different soils are on soddy-podzolic soils: nitrogen - 60-90 kg/ha, phosphorus - 60-90, potassium - 60-90 kg/ha. In terms of 1m2 this will be 17-25 g of ammonium nitrate, 35-50 g of superphosphate and 12-15 g of potassium chloride. For some phloxes this dose can be increased to 120 kg/ha. However, with a single application, the amount of nitrogen-potassium fertilizing should not exceed 35 g, and complete fertilizer with phosphorus - 50 g. In areas with deep chernozems: nitrogen - 40-60 kg/ha, phosphorus - 40-60, potassium - 30-50 kg/ha, in the forest-steppe zone for gray forest soils and leached chernozems, nitrogen and potassium are given 20% less than in soddy-podzolic soils, for gray soils: nitrogen - 60-100 kg/ha, phosphorus - 40-60, potassium - 30 -50 kg/ha. In farms and industrial floriculture, fertilizer application rates are set based on the results of agrochemical soil tests carried out several times a season.

Mineral fertilizers - double superphosphate, azophoska, nitroammophoska, potassium sulfate, complete complex fertilizers (for example, "Kemira universal"), organomineral mixtures are applied during mass spring plantings of phlox, when re-digging the soil in the spring. A couple of weeks before planting phlox in the fall, when preparing the soil, use double superphosphate and potassium sulfate. Potassium chloride can only be used in the fall when preparing the soil for spring planting or on old phlox plantings when preparing them for winter, together with pre-winter mulching of the plantings.

In amateur gardens, it is more advisable to apply mineral fertilizers when planting phlox in a planting hole directly into the root zone along with vermicompost. At the same time, the doses of fertilizers are slightly reduced, but the application scheme remains the same, i.e., phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied in the fall, and nitrogen-containing and complete complex fertilizers are applied in the spring. Proper soil preparation is another step towards luxurious flowering of phlox.

Planting phlox. Spring or autumn?

When planting phlox, you need to pay attention to the following problems - high-quality pure-grade planting material, choice of planting pattern and time.

Phlox planting material (both with open and closed root systems) is best purchased from well-known nurseries and farms, as well as from hobbyists. At the same time, the following requirements must be met for full-fledged planting material with an open root system. A standard planting unit in autumn should have 2-3 thick stems, preferably with several healthy leaves and well-defined large renewal buds at their base. The root system is powerful, healthy, shortened to 15 cm. More often, phloxes are sold with stems cut to 5-10 cm. The base of the stem should be smooth, with rough but healthy greenish skin. The plant must be labeled with the variety. Rotten, dried out, small, broken or moldy cuttings without signs of renewal buds with swollen, cracked stem bases and without a label cannot be considered high-quality planting material.

A standard planting unit in the spring should have 4-5 strong, colored growth shoots from 1 to 5 or maximum 6 cm in length with shiny healthy tissue and powerful living healthy roots shortened to 10-15 cm. The plant must also be provided with a label indicating and confirming its grade. Withered, broken, with withered, darkened, broken roots, divisions, or divisions with shoots that are too elongated to a height of 10 cm or more, discolored and thinned, can also be classified as low-quality planting material.

In garden centers, planting material is sold in containers or colorful bags in peat, sawdust or other substrate that protects the roots of the plant from drying out, equipped with a label indicating the variety, its characteristics, and planting instructions. Of the two mentioned above, the container version of the purchased planting material will be the best. However, it must be borne in mind that the assortment of phlox coming to us from European countries consists of outdated and often rather undecorative varieties. In addition, these plants take longer to acclimatize in our conditions and reach the peak of their decorative value only in the 2-3rd year. As for the planting material in bags, it often turns out to be dry, very weak or with already awakened and broken buds, and it is possible to obtain full-fledged plants from it only in the 3rd-4th year. At the same time, phloxes require a lot of care and attention, since weak planting material, as a rule, is an object for various diseases and pests.

The best planting material is plants obtained from cuttings of the second year of cultivation.

Phloxes are planted in spring, summer and autumn. Each planting date has its positive and negative sides, and the choice of planting date depends on many circumstances.

Autumn planting, as well as transplanting and dividing phloxes of early, early-mid and mid-flowering periods, is best done starting at the end of August, after the plants have formed renewal buds. Planting is completed at the end of September - beginning of October. Phloxes more late dates It is better to plant flowers from mid-September to early October or postpone this work to spring. Phlox should take root well before frost sets in. This is facilitated by mulching the plantings with peat or other insulating material in October to increase the temperature in the rhizome zone.

It is better to plant plants with several healthy leaves, as this will allow the phlox to quickly adapt to a new location and have time to prepare for winter. Autumn planting, made in best timing, allows you to get full-fledged lush flowering of phlox as early as next year, provided that agricultural technology is followed. In addition, in the fall, as a rule, there are fewer errors in determining the variety of plants. In spring, phlox grow very quickly, so the best planting time is very short - 10-12 days. In autumn, this period is much longer - 35-40 days.

If the plants are obtained at the end of October - November, then they are dug in so that the bases of the stems with renewal buds are at a depth of 10 cm, and marks are placed. The place for digging is chosen to be sufficiently dry, not flooded with melt water; the soil in the place of digging should be loose, but also well compacted so that the plants do not get sucked in deeply and they do not suffocate during wintering. With the onset of stable frosts, the buried phloxes are covered with peat, leaves, covering material (such as agril) in several layers, and then additionally with snow. In the spring, as soon as the soil thaws, the buried phloxes are carefully dug up, focusing on the marks and trying not to break off the fragile shoots that have begun to grow.

Spring planting, replanting and dividing begin after the soil thaws. For conditions middle zone In Russia this is the end of April - beginning of May. When it comes to planting in spring, it is best to focus on the plants themselves, which are very responsive to weather conditions. The best time will be from the beginning of phlox growth until the growth shoots reach 10 cm. During this period, as a rule, the weather is still cooler and the soil is better saturated with moisture. Later, when increasing average daily temperatures, phloxes begin to vegetate very quickly and when transplanted and divided they break off badly, suffer, and take longer to adapt. This leads to a delay in flowering by 1.5-2.5 weeks, and the flowering period is reduced. Therefore, when spring planting When replanting, phloxes are divided into larger parts to maximize their decorative properties. Before planting, it is better to store phlox in the refrigerator, and after planting, cover it with agril or lutrasil. When planted in spring, phloxes are more sensitive to lack of moisture in the soil and are more susceptible to diseases. But in the spring, almost any part of the plant that breaks off during planting (shoots, pieces of rhizomes), planted in the ground and covered with film or lutrasil, can be accepted with sufficient moisture, which does not happen in the fall.

Summer planting flowering plants allows you to be absolutely sure of the variety of the plant. After which it is necessary to cut out the inflorescences, shade the plants and, in case of hot and dry weather, water and spray them in the evening and morning. For better survival of plants when planting and replanting in summer time It is advisable to use the drugs Epin, Kornevin, following the instructions for their use. I do not recommend dividing phlox in the summer.

Thus, phloxes can be planted and replanted throughout growing season. But to obtain more lush and long-lasting flowering, autumn is still preferable.

The distances between plants when planting phlox, as well as planting patterns, can be different. This depends on the purpose of planting and the height of the variety, as well as the quality and size of the planting material. Phlox is one of the best perennials in our gardens. The use of phlox is very diverse, so different planting schemes are used.

Low-growing and border varieties are planted at a distance of 35-40 cm. 6-7 plants can be planted per 1 m2. Medium-sized varieties 70-90 cm high and placed at a distance of 50-55 cm from each other. For tall varieties height 100-150 cm, the distance when planting should be 60-70 cm from each other.

However this general recommendations. In each specific case, it is necessary to specify the distances between plants, choosing a planting scheme and focusing on the desired duration of their use. In urban conditions, the average duration of use of phlox in one place is 4 years. In private gardens, with proper agricultural technology, phloxes do not lose their decorative properties for 6-7 years. However, at a very high level of agricultural background, this period is reduced to 5 years, since the rhizome grows very quickly, intensively absorbing the entire feeding area, and the center of the bush quickly loses the ability to form additional roots.

When using phlox in joint planting with other perennials in mixborders and other complex flower beds, the distance between plants can be reduced if non-aggressive perennials with a root system that does not compact the soil are planted nearby (antemis, bellflowers, cornflowers, rudbeckias, aquilegias, cornflowers, carnations, lychnises, etc. .). Daylilies, hostas, astilbes, peonies, and clematis require large area nutrition, and phloxes for close fit next to them they quickly lose their decorative value.

When arranging flower beds from phlox, they are guided by the given average distances between plants for border, medium-sized and tall varieties. However, it must be remembered that when the flower bed is exposed to shade, the planting distances should be slightly increased.

When planting collections of phlox, two-three row planting can be used with distances between rows of 50 cm for low-growing varieties up to 70-80 cm for tall people. When planting phloxes intended for exhibitions and cutting, the distance between plants is increased. Solitaire plantings of phlox on the lawn are done in a dense group, so that it is perceived as a single flowering bush. If the plants being planted are weak, then the planting density must be increased for greater decorativeness.

Before planting phlox, a breakdown is made on the surface of the prepared flower beds or ridges, that is, the places for planting the bushes are determined and marked. The size of the planting hole should be larger than the size of the plant's root system. The necessary mineral and organomineral mixtures, vermicompost are placed at the bottom of the planting hole, mixed with soil, and water is poured. If the plants intended for planting are severely wilted, then it is advisable to pre-soak them for several hours in solutions of root, epin, heteroauxin, etc. The roots of the plant are straightened and directed down and to the sides. The rhizome is installed so that its top is 3-5 cm below the level of compacted soil. Having covered the rhizome, the soil is compacted very well and watered. After this, you may have to add soil to the hole, as it may shrink after two or three waterings. The rhizome should not be planted too deep or too shallow in the hole, so 2-3 days after planting the phlox, check the condition of the soil and correct mistakes.

Secrets of caring for phlox

Another myth about phlox is the opinion that phlox can grow without care, and to get a luxurious bouquet you need to purchase a rare super variety. Any phlox that has been growing on the site for a long time can be transformed with the help of proper agricultural technology and love. The rules outlined below apply to garden phloxes of summer-autumn flowering. In this group we will include f. paniculata, f. spotted, as well as f. Arends. Phloxes are unusually responsive to care, namely fertilizing, watering, loosening, weeding, mulching, culling and removing diseased plants, pest and disease control. It is necessary to distinguish between caring for adult and young phlox plantings.

To obtain lush flowering with the typical inflorescence shape of the variety, phlox must be properly fed, and this is related to the phases of plant development. Conventionally, the growing season of phlox development can be divided into three stages. The first is the period intensive growth when phloxes consume a large number of mainly nitrogen and water. The second is the period of budding and flowering, during which time the plant’s nitrogen consumption gradually decreases, but the consumption of potassium and partly phosphorus increases. Finally, the third period is from the end of flowering to seed ripening, when the accumulation of nutrients in the seeds, rhizomes and roots begins. During this period, increased absorption of phosphorus by the plant occurs for the formation of proteins. The plant is preparing for winter.

During the growing season, phloxes are fed five to six times. Fertilizing is carried out using root and foliar methods. The first is the traditional method, when plant nutrition is applied to the root zone in the form of liquid fertilizers or fertilizers are scattered in dry form, then embedded in the soil and watered abundantly. Foliar feeding is done on the leaves using a watering can or sprayer. At the same time, the doses of fertilizers are reduced.

The first fertilizing with complex granular fertilizers is given immediately after the snow melts and a brush of shoots appears. At the same time, lightly loosen and mulch the plantings with any fertile soil. If you don’t have it or compost, then you can take any soil or even sand, placing under it mowed and chopped grass from the lawn, but not sawdust. The layer of grass should be 3 cm. It is better to do this kind of mulching than not to do it at all. Mulching is one of the most important operations for caring for phlox, due to their biology. This is especially important for 3-4 year old phloxes, when the bushes are already starting to stick out of the soil. In hot weather, the soil overheats, dries out quickly, flowering becomes less abundant, and the flowering period is shortened. Autumn mulching protects phlox from freezing.

At the end of May, the phlox are fed a second time - with mullein infusion (1:10) with ash and the addition of nitroammophos or Kemira universal (1/2 tablespoon per bucket of water) or, as a replacement, add a solution of any complex mineral fertilizer (according to the instructions). You can take it already ready solution mullein in cans with the addition of potassium humate.

The third time phloxes are fertilized in the middle ( early varieties) and at the end of June (later). The composition of the fertilizer may be the same, but the dose of potassium fertilizers is increased (10 g of potassium sulfate or 1 glass of ash per bucket of water). In mid-June, later varieties can be given foliar feeding with a weak urea solution.

The next feeding is in early July with the same fertilizers, only adding 10-15 g of superphosphate. For early varieties, feed with complex fertilizer with microelements (according to instructions). Before mass flowering, at the end of July, the plants are fed with complete mineral fertilizer with microelements. In mid-August, the same fertilizing can be given for late-flowering varieties. Starting from mid-August, faded phlox of early varieties are fed phosphorus-potassium fertilizer(20 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium salt per bucket of water). You can embed double superphosphate and ash into the soil between the bushes and then water the soil well. It should be noted that early varieties are more responsive to the nitrogen-potassium components of fertilizing, while late varieties- to nitrogen-phosphorus.

Of great importance for full, long-lasting flowering is the inclusion of microelements in the composition of fertilizing, which improve the quality of flowering of phloxes and increase resistance to diseases. The source of microelements can be a complex fertilizer containing them in its composition. Micronutrient complexes are sold separately and can be used for both root and foliar feeding. You can also partially replace root fertilizing with foliar fertilizing.

You should remember the basic rules for fertilizing. They are held in the evening. Root liquid fertilizers give after abundant watering. The plants are then washed with water to prevent the stems from cracking. In dry form, it is better to fertilize before heavy rain. But foliar feeding will be useless if it rains after it. Both an overdose of nutrition is harmful (the inflorescences become loose, the stems crack) and its deficiency - the flowers become smaller, the color intensity decreases, and the flowering period is shortened. Fertilizing will be harmful if it is done in dry soil, that is, if the plants are not well watered. Therefore, it is useful to do root feeding after heavy rain.

All efforts to prepare the soil and fertilize will not bring success if the phloxes are not watered a lot and abundantly. If the soil above dries out greatly, the plants below shed their leaves, flowering occurs earlier, the inflorescences and flowers become smaller, and the flowering period is greatly reduced. To prevent this from happening, the soil should be soaked to the full depth of the roots. To do this, 1.5-2 buckets of water should be poured per 1 m2, depending on the dryness of the soil. Do this in the evening or early in the morning. Watering phlox during the day in hot weather with cold water leads to cracking and then lodging of the stems. It should be remembered that watering should continue even after the phloxes have flowered, if the weather is dry, so that the plants are well prepared for winter and abundant flowering next year.

On heavy loamy and clayey soils, loosening must be carried out periodically during the growing season after heavy watering and rain. You should also systematically control weeds, preventing them from inseminating. Phlox plantings are carefully inspected weekly, starting in spring, to identify diseased plants and the appearance of pests.

In the fall, if necessary, the phloxes are mulched and after the soil freezes, the stems are cut short with disinfected pruners or broken off briefly. It is advisable to burn or remove cut stems from the site. If phloxes are covered for the winter, then before that, to prevent diseases, it is advisable to throw a few crystals of copper sulfate into the middle of the bush.

Features of growing phlox spring bloom.

Phloxes, blooming in spring, can be roughly divided into two groups. The first category includes low-growing creeping phloxes, which have all the characteristics of plants in dry places. They have a height of 10-15 cm and grow in dense cushions of highly branching, intertwining, creeping stems, completely covered with evergreen small narrow leaves. They bloom from mid to late May - early June. The second group includes species that have loose turf of creeping woody stems, from which vertical ascending shoots extend, ending in loose corymbose inflorescences of 5-12 flowers. These species bloom a little later - from late May - early June. Plant height is from 20 to 30-40 cm.

Creeping spring-blooming phlox, like tall bush phlox, is quite flexible. But most of them, like typical mountain plants, prefer dry, sandy, poor rocky soils, in which the proportion of humus is small. The plasticity of some species is manifested in the fact that they can live both on rocky screes, in cracks in rocks, sunny dry slopes, and on plains on hills on sandy, breathable soil, often containing a sufficient amount of humus (f. awl-shaped, f. snowy, f. . forked, etc.).

All creeping phloxes of spring flowering are light-loving, relatively drought-resistant, and cannot tolerate wet places with stagnant water, acidic, dense, clay soils. They grow in turf, as they have the ability to root shoots lying on the ground. In two years, recumbent stems can lengthen to 20-35 cm. Over time, the turf grows, turning into entire colonies. Most creeping phlox have overwintering leaves, small, needle-shaped, leathery, often slightly pubescent.

These plants are quite winter-hardy, but prefer dry, frosty but snowy winters. In warm, humid winters with a lot of snow and lack of drainage, phloxes become severely damped and lose their decorative properties. As soon as the snow melts, the overwintered shoots begin to grow back quite quickly. Second-order lateral shoots develop from dormant buds located in the nodes of overwintered shoots. Thin peduncles 3-5 cm long with 1-7 flowers on each soon form at the ends of all stems. From mid-May, the plants bloom and by the end of May they look like carpets of white, lilac-lilac, bluish, purple, pink flowers of various shades. This violent flowering, depending on the weather, type or variety, can last 20-30 days. After flowering, the peduncles dry out, and in place of the peduncle, one or two replacement branches of the second order are formed. Over the summer, the regrown stems become coarser and partially woody, and the leaves also become coarser. Individual flowers sometimes bloom in late summer.

Thus, creeping spring flowering phloxes require a sunny location and light, loose, breathable and well-drained soil. The soil should contain a sufficient amount of humus, which promotes more abundant flowering. In light partial shade, phlox turf becomes looser and flowering is less abundant. In partial shade, phlox will at least survive, but they practically do not bloom and are of no decorative interest.

Therefore, it is better to plant them in elevated areas, on rocky hills, on slopes where excess rain and melt water drains well. Before preparing the soil in the selected area, all perennial harmful weeds (sow thistle, wheatgrass, duckweed, etc.) must be carefully removed. To do this, the area is treated once or twice with Roundup. Best for growing spring phlox are light loamy or sandy loam soils, to which are added sifted loose compost, leaf humus or weathered peat mixed with good garden or turf soil. At the same time, coarse river sand is also added to loamy soils. If the soils are sufficiently moist and heavy, then under planting creeping phlox you can put a layer of coarse sand and fine gravel in a layer of 12-15 cm, and then prepared soil.

Phlox bushes are planted in place at a distance of 20-30 cm and watered. Considering the biology of these types of phlox, water them moderately, mainly after flowering, when the phlox grows, at intervals of two weeks if the weather is dry. It is not recommended to feed phlox excessively, but two weeks before flowering it is advisable to feed it with a complete mineral fertilizer such as “Kemira-universal” (1 tablespoon per bucket of water). You can give foliar fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers (15 g of urea or saltpeter per bucket of water). After flowering, when the phloxes begin to grow vigorously again, they are fed with complete mineral fertilizer.

A phlox carpet looks luxurious if there are no bald spots in the turf. In the spring, the growing lashes are carefully laid out or directed to the exposed areas of the curtain and pinched. You can pin the lashes with wooden or wire pins. Then lightly mulch with light loose soil of the basic composition and water. It happens that it becomes necessary to remove excess lashes, maintaining the required size of the jacket. This work is done after the plants have flowered, using pruned branches for propagation. During the remaining time until autumn, the jacket manages to acquire a natural decorative appearance. In late autumn, if phlox plantings are located in places where snow is blown - on stones in a rock garden, on a retaining wall, on steep slopes, then it is necessary to cover them with spruce branches and then with additional snow. The spruce branches also protect them from burning out in the bright sun in early spring.

The most common typical representatives of the second group of spring flowering phloxes are f. spread out, f. stoloniferous, f. adorable and them hybrid forms. The first two species prefer semi-shaded and sunny places with shading during the midday hours, with moist, light, slightly acidic soils with a high content of humus. Phloxes of this group begin to grow in early May. Numerous flower stalks 20-30 cm high grow from the axils of the leaves on creeping stems; in late May - early June they are covered with numerous flowers in blue and lilac-lilac tones. There are varieties with white flowers. F. stoloniferous with flowers in pink and purple tones, occasionally white, similar to F. spread out according to its requirements for growing conditions. The third representative of this group is f. Charming prefers poorer and drier soils. It also blooms in late May - early June with compact umbrellas, which are located slightly higher than those of the previous phlox. The flowers are pink and purple, occasionally white. In the first ten days of May, after the weather with positive temperatures sets in, phlox can be fed with nitrogen fertilizers. Before flowering, a second feeding is given with complete mineral fertilizer. Plants can be lightly mulched with light, nutritious soil. After flowering, phloxes grow actively and need to be fertilized with complete mineral fertilizer. In areas with f. spread out and f. stoloniferous plants constantly maintain soil moisture, especially in dry weather. F. adorable needs this less.

In flower beds, different locations are chosen for these phloxes. If the first two can be included in the assortment of a shady flower garden, rock garden, and the northern part of the rock garden, then the third representative of this group will decorate compositions of plants on the southern slopes and rocky screes of the rock garden.

Main pests and diseases of phlox

Let's look at the main diseases of phlox and the causes that cause them, as well as measures to combat them.

Phloxes are affected by viral, fungal, mycoplasma diseases, as well as pests. In addition, physiological damage to phloxes is quite common as a consequence of improper agricultural practices.

Viral diseases

There are no specific viruses that infect only phlox. This is the most serious group of diseases, the main control measure for which is the identification of diseased plants and their subsequent removal along with the soil and destruction. Phlox bushes affected by viruses, in addition to various deformities (an inflorescence in the form of a lump with green ugly small flowers or unopening buds), attract attention with a squat, frail appearance - a change in the shape and size of leaves, stems, flowers and roots.

Ring spot

The disease begins to appear in May - June. Its symptoms are chlorotic light spots and a characteristic ring pattern. With severe damage, spotting covers the entire plant. As a result, the leaves are deformed, curled, the plant is depressed and does not bloom. The causative agent is the tomato black ring virus. Carried by nematodes.

Necrotic spotting

Appears at the beginning of leaf blossoming. On them you can see dark brown round spots ranging in size from 1 to 2.5 mm. Sometimes the spots completely cover the leaf. It is caused by one of the strains of the cucumber mosaic virus and, in addition to phlox, affects many flower crops, including gladioli, dahlias, delphiniums, zinnias, etc.

Wrinkling or curling of leaves

Leaves become curly, lumpy, covered with irregularly shaped necrotic spots, glossy or covered with scabs. It happens that a blackish border of spots or a yellow-green mosaic pattern develops. The stems become weak, brittle, and deformed. Plant growth is stunted. The diseased plant looks compact, bushy, dwarf, there is either no flowering at all, or it is very sparse. Often the diseased plant dies. The disease is caused by the cucumber mosaic virus and is spread by a soil fungus of the genus Olpidium.

Rattle

A symptom of the disease is light spots on the leaves, which increasingly develop, then fade and become necrotic. Sometimes the plant is a latent carrier, and this only results in some stunted growth. This disease is common in Central Europe and is caused by the tobacco curly streak virus. In addition to phlox, it affects aster, narcissus, lily, gladiolus, tulips, primrose, etc. It is carried by nematodes of the genus Trichodorus.

Variegation

The disease manifests itself during the period of mass flowering of phlox. The symptom is light streaks on the petals of flowers. Diseased plants never produce lush flowering. If you look closely at the plant, you will notice some deformation of the leaves. Some varieties are quite highly susceptible to this dangerous disease (“Samantha Smith”, “Thor”, “Tenor”, ​​“Night”, etc.). The disease is not visible on varieties with white flowers. The causative agent is the rhizome mosaic virus, which affects many flower crops, including carnations, delphiniums, and tulips. It is transmitted by nematodes of the genus Xyphinema.

Control measures. First of all, this is a constant, thorough inspection of plantings, timely identification and destruction of diseased plants. Nematodes are carriers of many phytopathogenic viruses. Therefore, when planting collections, it is necessary to conduct a soil analysis for nematode infestation. If they are found, the area is treated with nematicides. The spread of infections is facilitated by the use of contaminated garden tools (secateurs), and the virus is also carried by moles, fallen flowers from infected plants and other plant debris, etc. It has been noticed that diseases are transmitted by cuttings and even seeds from infected plants. Therefore, it is so important to promptly identify affected plants, as well as sources of infected planting material. It is necessary to have at least a small quarantine area for newly arrived varieties. The holes from the removed diseased plants are etched.

Fungal diseases

The most common types of phlox are leaf spot, or septoria, powdery mildew, rust and phomosis.

Leaf spot or septoria

In mid-June on the surface lower leaves plants, small grayish spots of round or irregular shape appear, which subsequently increase, turn yellow, and a brownish-reddish border appears around them. The number of spots increases, they merge more and more, and the affected parts of the leaf die off. If the lesion covers about half of the leaf, it dries out. Varieties with pink and crimson-red flowers are more susceptible to this disease. White phlox suffer less often.

Rust

A fairly common phlox disease. Phlox with dark colored foliage and flowers is most affected. The disease manifests itself in June in the form of rusty-brown spots, the number and size of which gradually increase as the disease progresses. The leaves begin to dry out and die. The plant weakens and may die.

Control measures. Stems with many affected leaves are cut out and burned or some of the affected leaves are removed. Diseased plants, the soil around them and the bushes surrounding them are sprayed with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture, a 0.7% solution of copper oxychloride, and a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate.

Powdery mildew

This common disease does not appear until early August. First, rounded whitish cobweb spots appear on the lower and then on the upper leaves. Subsequently, their number increases and they partially merge. If the infection is severe, the leaves may curl and dry out. The decorative value of the plant decreases sharply, the bush may weaken and die. It is necessary to carefully examine the plants, as the first symptoms of the disease may appear on the underside of the leaves. The disease is favored by wet summers, dense plantings, and the proximity of provocative plants (New Belgian asters, shrubby asters, forget-me-nots, delphiniums, aquilegia, acacia, barberry, etc.).

Control measures. The best control measures are correct agricultural technology and disease prevention. Plantings should not be thickened. It has been noticed that plants overfed with nitrogen are more susceptible to powdery mildew. If there are provocative plants near the phloxes, then they and the phloxes must be treated with a 0.5% solution of Bordeaux mixture or another copper-containing preparation (0.2% solution of copper oxychloride). You can use a 0.1% solution of colloidal sulfur. Spraying (two or three times) begins at the end of May. Prevention and treatment of diseased plants is also facilitated by three-time treatment with a 1% soda ash solution with an interval of 7-8 days. Foliar feeding with solutions of microelements is also preventative ( boric acid- on the tip of a knife, dissolved in hot water, on a watering can), pink solution of potassium permanganate, copper sulfate(1/2 teaspoon per watering can).

It appears during the period of budding and flowering, most often on plantings of 2-3 years. In diseased plants, the lower leaves first turn yellow, and then the lower leaves curl and dry out. On the lower part of the stem (at a height of up to 15 cm), the skin turns brown, it corks, becomes loose, becomes covered with a network of cracks, then cracks, the stem easily breaks off. The spread of the disease is facilitated by the use of planting material from diseased bushes.

Control measures. To prevent the disease, it is necessary to follow the rules of agricultural technology, spray the plants two or three times with an interval of 8-10 days with a solution of Bordeaux mixture, and in the fall, cut short the plant stems with leaves and remove them from the area.

Mycoplasma diseases

Their causative agents are mycoplasma organisms. Symptoms of diseases are chlorosis, dwarfing of the plant, changes in leaves, stems, greening of flowers, loss of color, etc. Some types of leafhoppers are carriers. Vegetative propagation plants contributes to the spread of the disease.

Symptoms include stunted growth, deformation and discoloration of leaves, and numerous side shoots develop on the stems. The petals and stamens transform into leaf-like formations. Asters, gaillardias, chrysanthemums, black currants, mint, etc. also suffer from jaundice.

Control measures. The best way to combat jaundice is to destroy diseased plants. Compliance with agricultural practices and prevention rules will reduce the risk of contracting this dangerous disease to a minimum.

Pests

The main pests of phlox are nematodes, slobbering pennies, slugs, caterpillars of various cutworms and cabbage whites, etc.

Nematodes

A microscopic worm with a thin thread-like body that lives in plant tissues and feeds on the sap of these tissues. In phlox, stem and leaf nematodes are most common. Root or root-knot nematodes are less common. One female lays more than 100 eggs in the plant tissue. The nematode development cycle lasts from two weeks to one and a half months, depending on weather conditions. The bulk of pests are located in the stems, but they can also be in the leaves, in the soil, and in weeds growing nearby. In places where nematodes accumulate under the skin of the stem, swellings are visible, the stems are bent, stunted in growth, and become fragile. The edges of the leaves are wavy, the leaf itself wrinkles, and at the top of the stem the leaves become thread-like. The inflorescence can become ugly with ugly ones, small flowers. A severely affected plant weakens and dies.

Nematodes overwinter in the lowest part of the stems and in the rhizome. In the spring, nematodes penetrate the growing stems and rise up with them, increasingly damaging the plant. When the number of nematodes in a plant is small, externally the damage to the plant is not noticeable, although the process of accumulation of the pest in the plant tissues occurs. Nematode larvae are surprisingly tenacious. They can withstand drying and remain viable for about a year. Nematodes can be spread throughout the area by moles, with tools, water during irrigation or heavy rains, with cuttings and other parts of plants.

Control measures. General preventive and quarantine measures indicated above. Affected bushes are dug up along with the ground and burned. If the variety is valuable and you want to preserve it, but the bush is not seriously affected, then the most affected shoots are removed and the plant is left until next year. In the spring, as soon as the shoots grow to a height of 4-5 cm, break out all apparently healthy ones and wash them in running water and planted in light loose soil under a cover made of plastic film, agrill or under a jar. The mother bush is carefully dug up with a pitchfork and, without shaking off the soil, is thrown away or burned. This procedure with the plants obtained as a result of such cuttings is repeated over the next 2-3 years. Phloxes obtained as a result of such healing should be under constant close supervision. You can also get rid of stem nematodes by propagating nematode-affected phloxes by root cuttings.

If the soil is infected with nematodes, then it is treated with nematicides (according to the instructions): at least three times with an interval of 20 days. Then the soil is retested.

Slobbery Penny

The larvae of the pest (bug), 3-4 mm long, live in their foamy secretions on the underside of the leaves or in their axils. They feed on juices from plant tissues. As a result, the leaves of the plant wrinkle and curl. The larvae travel from one leaf to another, causing the greatest damage during dry summers, especially in May and June.

Control measures. Spraying plants with Inta-Vir. With a small infestation, you can carefully pick off the affected leaves from the plant and destroy them, remembering that this must be done carefully, since the larvae can jump out of their shelters.

Naked slugs

Gastropods that live during the day in the upper layers of the soil and under various shelters (chips, lumps of earth, stones, slabs, etc.). They harm plants at night and late in the evening, and in rainy weather during the day, eating the lower part of the stems, leaves, buds and even flowers. There are years when slugs cause great harm, especially to phlox cuttings and seedlings.

Control measures. Regular removal of weeds and loosening of the soil. Dusting the soil and paths between plantings with fluff lime, ash or a mixture of ash and tobacco dust, scattering a granular preparation - metaldehyde (30 g per 10 m), laying out baits with it, special traps (cabbage leaves, planks, etc.), which are periodically inspected and the pest destroyed.

Butterfly caterpillars

Sometimes phloxes are damaged by caterpillars of green butterflies of various shades, eating leaves, buds, and flowers.

Control measures. Collect and destroy caterpillars, although they are quite difficult to notice on phlox. In case of severe damage - treatment with any preparations to destroy leaf-eating pests.

Physiological disorders

Damage to physiological phloxes, as a rule, occurs as a result of violations of the agricultural technology for growing phloxes on acidic soils. It must be distinguished from fungal and viral diseases.

Drying and falling leaves

Physiological drying out, starting from the lower leaves, occurs due to a mismatch in the volume of water consumed aboveground part plant, and the volume supplied by its roots. The plant itself regulates this process, reducing the area of ​​the total leaf surface that evaporates moisture. As a result, some of the leaves die. This will continue as long as the drought lasts and there is no watering. A similar process occurs when plants are transplanted or divided in late spring or summer. Covering the plants with lutrisil, abundant watering, frequent spraying and shading after planting prevent this process. On rich soils it is more pronounced, since a lack of moisture leads to a higher concentration of nutrients in the soil, which inhibits plants.

Cracking of stems

It is observed in phloxes from the end of May - beginning of June, i.e. during intensive growth of stems. As a result, longitudinal cracks form at the bottom of the stem, the stem tissues are exposed, and then covered with callus. The stem becomes flat; often, under the weight of the inflorescence, it lies down and breaks off. Such phenomena observed in very humid and warm years, provoke excessive soil acidity, excess nitrogen, and thickening of plantings. Splitting of stems can also occur when plants are watered with cold water in very hot weather.

Phloxes are fragrant and beautiful flowers, which can be seen in many garden plots. But the splendor of flowering largely depends on the correct cultivation and regular feeding.

Experienced flower growers are confident that these flowers do not only need the fertilizer that is applied during planting.

Phlox – perennials, so after a while the nutrition is reduced. All substances added to the soil during planting run out. They are partially used by the plant, and partially go into the underlying soil layers. When spring comes, phlox begins to grow, but there is no sufficient nutrition. This leads to weak bushes and insufficiently active flowering.

In addition, active vegetation and flowering lead to soil depletion. The flower especially needs nitrogen nutrition, which increases the growth of green mass and the splendor of flowering.

What fertilizers are used?

In order for phlox to grow well, they require both organic and mineral supplements. An excellent organic fertilizer is slurry. It is diluted with water. To do this, take a bucket of water and add one and a half liters of manure to it. To feed the plants, make grooves, pour solution into them and fill the grooves with earth.

Fertilizing with mullein is done in the same way. The bucket is filled one third with mullein, and the rest is filled with water. The mass is mixed and used for its intended purpose.

Bird droppings also work very well for these flowers. The most optimal is chicken. A kilogram of litter is diluted in one bucket of water. They also apply it into the grooves, no more than one and a half liters per square meter.

In addition to organic fertilizers, mineral fertilizers are used. The most convenient are complex formulations that are intended directly for garden plants. You can also take general-purpose mineral fertilizers. We will consider their use below.

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Preparing the soil for planting flowers

The first stage of fertilizing is preparing the soil before planting. Phlox require loose soil. To improve its structure, use organic compounds. To keep the flowers bright and juicy, you will need potassium.

A couple of weeks before planting, the soil is dug up to a depth of about thirty centimeters. If the soil is sandy, then compost and some clay are added to it.

Loamy soil requires the addition of one bucket of rotted compost, humus, 50 grams of superphosphate, 100 grams of bone meal and 200 grams of wood ash. All this is calculated per 1 m2.

If the soil is acidic, then lime it in advance. Lime will require from 100 to 200 grams per 1 m2, depending on the acidity of the soil.

In heavy soils, add about two buckets of sand and 100 grams of lime.

Fertilizer during planting in spring and autumn

When phloxes are planted, the complex must be added to the holes. necessary fertilizers. The best time The best time to plant these flowers is the beginning of September or the second half of April. In any of these cases, the plants have time to take root and delight with their flowering.

The holes are made about 20 cm deep. The distance between plants depends on their size. Short ones are placed at a distance of 40 cm, and tall ones need a distance of 60 cm.
Fertilizer is placed at the bottom of each hole. You can use complex AVA, which only takes a dessert spoon. It is replaced with a mixture of ash and mineral compositions. You will need a tablespoon of a mixture of potassium and superphosphate, to which half a glass of ash is added. The holes are watered, a mound is formed and the seedling is placed on it, straightening the roots. Then they are sprinkled with earth and the plant is protected from the sun. Young flowers are watered thoroughly.

After rooting, the plants are fertilized using slurry or saltpeter. The latter is diluted at the rate of 20 grams per bucket of water.

Planting flowers in summer

Summer planting is not very convenient, since such plants most likely will no longer bloom. It is used if it is possible to purchase adult plants or seedlings at the age of two years.

Such phloxes are planted in holes filled with a mixture of compost and humus. These two components are taken in equal quantities. To them add an incomplete glass of ash and a couple of dozen granules of complex flower fertilizer. Long roots should be trimmed before planting. Before this, the root system is immersed in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for some time. The space around the planted plants is mulched and compacted.

Feeding during the growing season

In order for the plant to actively grow and bloom throughout the growing season, it must be fertilized. At the same time, in different time Various compositions are used.

You can start fertilizing these flowers even before the snow melts. To do this, nitrogen and some other mineral fertilizers are scattered over the ice crust. One square meter will require about 20 grams of ammonium nitrate, approximately 60 grams of superphosphate and 150 grams of wood ash. If the snow cover has melted before the fertilizers have been spread, then they must be embedded in the soil to a depth of 3 to 5 cm. This is done by loosening.

Another option is to fertilize while the stems are growing. So for every two or three flower bushes, add one bucket of humus or compost with the addition of two tablespoons of urea.

During budding, phloxes are fertilized with a solution of chicken manure or ammonium nitrate. Chicken manure is diluted in a ratio of 1:25 and a bucket of this solution is poured per square meter. Ammonium nitrate You will need approximately 30 grams per bucket of water.

In July, flowering is maintained with nitrogen-potassium fertilizing. To do this, you can dilute chicken droppings. 20 grams of superphosphate and the same amount of potassium sulfate are added to the solution. “Agricola for flowering plants” and organic fertilizer “Flower” can be used.

After flowering has finished, the plant needs to be prepared for winter. Nitrogen fertilizers are inappropriate. Use a solution of superphosphate and potassium sulfate at 20 grams per square meter. They are bred in a bucket of water.

You can use 2 tablespoons complex fertilizer"Autumn", which is mixed with compost.

Flowers of “flame”: care and reproduction

If there are no special fertilizers

If special fertilizers are not available, then you can get by with those substances that are available to almost every gardener. This is mullein ash and solution.

The ash is used at the first stage, after the snow has melted. For each bush, one glass of ash is laid out on moist soil.

It is also used during the budding period. Since the ash contains many minerals, its use will give good results.

If a nitrogen component is needed, mullein should be used. It is diluted in water in a ratio of 1:10.

Gardener's tips: propagation and care of flowers

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