It is difficult to call a cottage in which there is no water supply modern and comfortable for living. Walking with a bucket to a well or pump is something out of fairy tales or old grandmother's stories today. There must be running water in a private home. And you can do it yourself by organizing a water supply from the same well. The situation is even simpler when it is possible to connect to the village centralized network. In this case, it is enough to install only the internal part of the water supply system.
Water supply systems
Water supply country houses It happens:
- centralized;
- decentralized.
In the first option, the water source is common to the entire village water supply network. To connect a private home to it, you must contact the resource supply organization and obtain specifications for connection. The subsequent insertion into the centralized pipeline will be carried out by the installers of this company, and the distribution of the water supply through the residential building can be done independently.
Home water supply options
In the second option, water enters the house from a well, borehole or river. If such water intake is done on your own local area for yourself, then you will not need to obtain permits or coordinate anything with government agencies. However, all issues of quality and compliance of the life-giving moisture entering the cottage fall on the shoulders of the home owner.
Plumbing system in a private house
The plumbing system of a private house consists of an external and an internal part. The first includes a street water supply from a water intake or village network and directly a well or well with a pump (if this is a decentralized autonomous option). The second includes the cold water and hot water pipelines located in the house, as well as filters, pumps, fittings and taps.
External part of the water supply system of a private house
How to develop a plumbing diagram
In order for everything to work out correctly in the end, before installing the water supply it is necessary to carefully work out the layout of its installation on the street and wiring in the cottage. If this project is done correctly, it will avoid many problems when installation work and subsequent operation assembled system water supply.
Water supply scheme for a private house
When developing such a water supply scheme, the following is calculated:
- number of water supply points in the house;
- the need and number of collectors;
- pump power and water heater capacity;
- pipe sizes;
- characteristics of shut-off valves.
Plus, you select the option of pipe routing (collector or sequential) and the placement of all elements of the water supply system in a private house. At first glance, it is easier to install the same electrical wiring in an apartment or a ventilation system. However, both have their own nuances. And even with the slightest mistakes, there will be many problems in all cases.
Plumbing installation options
Features of pipe selection
Pipes for home water supply can be made of plastic, steel, copper or metal-plastic. Copper will cost the most. But pipelines made from it are not subject to corrosion and deformation during heating (cooling), and they are also not afraid of impurities in water and water hammer.
The easiest way to install plastic options, however, high and low temperatures are strictly contraindicated for them. It is recommended to choose plastic for installation inside the house, and choose steel for the street. Steel pipes more difficult to connect (requires welding). But they are more reliable, although they are susceptible to rust.
The internal diameter of the pipes is selected based on the estimated volume of water consumption by plumbing fixtures connected to a specific section of the water supply system. Wherein tubular product with an internal cross-section of 25 mm, it can flow about 30 l/min, and with 32 mm – about 50 l/min. Typically, these two sizes are most often chosen for installing an in-house plumbing system. If you take pipes of a smaller diameter, they will make noise, since to increase them bandwidth you will have to increase the water pressure.
Types of pipes for water supply
To install an external section of water supply with your own hands, they are usually taken from a pipe with thermal insulation with a cross-section of 32 mm. This pipeline will lie in the ground, so attention must be paid to its insulation Special attention. He shouldn't freeze in the winter.
Installing water supply in a cottage in seven steps:
- Marking pipe routing, as well as installation locations for equipment and plumbing.
- Making holes in the walls for the pipelines to be laid.
- Connecting pipes using fittings or welding.
- Connecting shut-off valves.
- Installation of a water heater (boiler) and pumps with their connection to the assembled water supply system.
- Installation of plumbing.
- Starting the water and checking for leaks.
It is recommended to leave about 15–20 mm of empty space between the wall and the pipe. This will make it easier to repair the plumbing later if necessary. Also, each branch from the riser to the plumbing should have its own shut-off valve. This way, in the event of an emergency, you won’t have to turn off all the water in a private house, leaving household members completely without it for several hours or even a couple of days.
Connecting the pumping station
Pump or pumping station installed in a caisson above a well, in a basement or in an outbuilding next to the well. This equipment is sensitive to severe frosts, so it should be located in an insulated, or even better, heated place.
Otherwise, there is a risk that the water inside it and nearby pipes will simply freeze.
An option with installation is also possible submersible pump straight into the well.
However, pressure switches and other automation will still require some kind of insulated space in the borehole head or room in the house for them to work correctly.
Schematic diagram of pumping station connection
Hydraulic accumulator
To ensure that the pressure in the cottage’s autonomous water supply system is always constant, a hydraulic accumulator is included with the pump. It not only allows you to control the pressure in the taps, but also reduces wear pumping equipment. The latter turns on less often. This only happens to fill the accumulator tank, and not every time you open the faucet valve in the kitchen.
If you don’t want to install a hydraulic accumulator, then you can get by with a regular storage tank of 0.5–1 cubic meter installed in the attic. This scheme allows you to do without complex and expensive equipment. At the same time, the pressure in the taps remains quite stable and constant.
Connection diagram for hydraulic accumulator
Water purification
If the quality of the water leaves much to be desired, then the water supply will have to be supplemented with a water purification system. At a minimum you need a filter rough cleaning. It will remove grains of sand and other large suspended particles from the water flow.
Additional filters are installed after water analysis has been carried out. chemical composition impurities present in it. If the content of iron or calcium is high, some treatment devices will be needed, and with increased hardness, others will be needed.
Water purification scheme in a private house
How not to break the law
To connect to a centralized water supply, you will have to prepare a whole bunch of documents and obtain technical conditions for connection. Without these pieces of paper you cannot cut into a pipe without permission. This will be discovered sooner or later and considerable fines will follow for arbitrariness and water consumption. Here, all connection issues should be resolved exclusively through the organization that controls the water utility.
Even in the most remote village houses, not to mention modern country cottages, you can significantly increase the level of comfort by simply installing water supply in a private house. We won’t assure you that this is such a simple matter, especially if the house has already been built a long time ago, and not just at the planning stage, but still, many of the plumbing installation works can be done independently, without the help of specialists. In this article, we will try to tell you how to install water supply in a private house, while we will only touch on work inside the house without taking into account the arrangement of the water supply source.
Don't neglect this important point, like drawing up a water supply diagram. Don’t come up with excuses for yourself: I just need to get it into the kitchen and the bathroom. Immediately, as soon as you decide to install a water supply system in a private house, draw a diagram of its installation throughout the house, taking into account all the elements: water consumers, collectors, boiler, filters and pump. Mark the location of all elements and the route for laying pipes around the house. It is advisable to mark the distances on the diagram. This will greatly facilitate the task of calculating the number of pipes for the water supply.
The pipe laying scheme can be done in two ways:
- Serial connection of consumers.
- Collector connection.
Serial connection only suitable for little ones country house with a small number of water consumers, where 1 - 2 people live. For full-fledged country houses and cottages with permanent residence such a system will not work. It consists of the following: water flows through the main pipeline throughout the house; a tee with a outlet in its direction is installed near each water consumer. It turns out that if you use several consumers at the same time, the most remote one will have very low pressure, unable to satisfy the needs.
Collector connection consists in diverting individual pipes from a common collector to each consumer separately. This ensures almost the same pressure at every point in the house. Of course, there will still be some pressure losses associated with the distance from the pumping station, but these losses are much less than with a series connection.
The choice of a collector distribution system significantly increases the cost of plumbing in a private home. Mainly due to more pipes. But it's worth it. Next, we will consider the collector system.
Any water supply diagram for a private house consists of the following elements:
- Source of water intake (well, well).
- Pumping station. A pipe is laid in the ground from the water source and connected to the pump. Before connecting it to the pump there must be check valve so that the water does not come back.
- A hydraulic accumulator into which water is pumped.
- After the hydraulic accumulator on the outlet pipe, it makes sense to install a tee with a shut-off valve. One pipe will be used for household needs, and the other for technical needs (vegetable garden, car wash, etc.).
- A pipe with water for household needs is connected to a water purification and water treatment system, since water from an underground source may contain harmful impurities.
- After the filtering systems, a tee is installed to separate cold water and future hot water.
- Pipe with cold water connects to the collector for cold water. Shut-off valves are installed here for each line that will go to its consumer.
- The hot water pipe is connected to the water heater.
- Pipe with hot water from the water heater is connected to a hot water collector, from which pipes radiate throughout the house.
Others may also be present in the plumbing system. additional elements, but the typical diagram and connection sequence remain unchanged.
Installation of water supply in a private house
In the work associated with laying water pipes in a private house, the most dusty and difficult part is making holes in the walls or floor for the pipeline. Otherwise, cutting and connecting pipes, connecting to consumers, connecting to a collector, installing a pumping station and connecting filter systems, although it will take a lot of time, will not require much physical effort. So doing the plumbing of a private house with your own hands is a completely feasible task even for a beginner. The main thing is that the desire is unshakable, then everything can be done.
Selection of pipe material
The first step is to decide what pipe material we will use.
- Copper pipes the best and most expensive. They are not susceptible to corrosion, are not afraid of ultraviolet radiation, are indifferent to microorganisms, do not notice increased pressure, do not react to temperature changes environment, they are also not afraid of harmful impurities in the water, and in addition, they instantly give off heat. In general, it’s a dream, not pipes. One drawback is the price.
- Metal-plastic pipes They are aluminum pipes protected on both sides (inside and outside) by a layer of polyethylene. The smooth surface of polyethylene does not allow deposits to accumulate and prevents the development of rust. The outer layer protects against the influence of ultraviolet radiation and condensation. Significant disadvantages such pipes are: fear high temperatures more than 95 °C (deformed), sensitive to water freezing, pipes with fittings cannot be bent.
- Steel pipes- the good old option. They are durable, strong, but at the same time afraid of rust. It is also important that for installation it is necessary to either cut a thread for a connection on each pipe element, or weld the pipes, which is a very labor-intensive process.
- Polypropylene pipes Recently they have become increasingly popular when installing plumbing in a private home. This is due to the fact that they have excellent performance characteristics, do not oxidize, are durable (up to 50 years), relatively easy to install, and the connections do not require frequent checking, which allows you to hide the pipes under the plaster. Among the shortcomings, only one can be highlighted - the need for a special electric welding machine to connect pipes to each other.
Important! If your choice is polypropylene pipes, please note: for hot water supply, reinforced pipes (with fiberglass, aluminum or other material) are required.
Considering the number of pipes required to lay a collector system, the price for water supply in a private house largely depends on the material of these pipes. So, when choosing, focus on the price/quality ratio and do not forget about your budget.
Selecting the diameter of internal water pipes
The correct diameter is no less important than the pipe material. This is due to the fact that a pipe diameter that is too small can lead to turbulence of the flow, which means that the water in the pipes will move noisily, leaving a lot of lime deposits on the walls. Maximum speed the movement of water in the pipeline is 2 m/s, based on this, it is necessary to select the diameter of the pipes.
The diameter of the pipes also depends from pipeline length:
- For a pipeline less than 30 m long, pipes with a diameter of 25 mm are suitable.
- For a pipeline longer than 30 m, it is better to use pipes with a diameter of 32 mm.
- For a short pipeline less than 10 m long, pipes with a diameter of 20 mm can be used.
The correct installation of water supply in a private house largely depends on the correctly selected diameter of the collector pipe, so that it ensures the full simultaneous use of several consumers at once. To determine it, you need to perform simple calculations: for example, one tap with water flows 5 - 6 l/min, we calculate how many and which consumers we can have turned on simultaneously throughout the house.
- A pipe with a diameter of 25 mm (1 inch) passes through itself 30 l/min;
- 32 mm (1.25 inch) pipe flows 50 l/min;
- pipe 38 mm (1.5 inches) - flows 75 l/min.
If the family is large, many people live in the house at the same time, and there are few water points, quite often there will be situations when they will use the kitchen sink, the bathroom, the toilet, and the washing machine at the same time. The consumption of these devices per minute must be summed up - the diameter of the collector pipe will depend on this.
If the family is small and there are many water consumers around the house, then the calculation is made differently. It is necessary to calculate water consumption at water collection points and reduce it by 25 - 40%. This will be the approximate cost of the family.
Let's look at connecting pipes to each other using polypropylene pipes as an example.
For cold water we use pipes with a diameter of 25 mm, wall thickness 2.8 mm.
For hot water we use reinforced pipes with a diameter of 25 mm, wall thickness 3.2 mm.
Technology for welding polypropylene pipes:
- We cut the pipes into pieces of the required size using special scissors. Be sure to keep the blade strictly perpendicular.
- We mark the welding depth on the pipes - in our case 16 mm.
- We clean the welding site from dust and dirt using damp alcohol wipes.
- On special welding machine install nozzles of the required diameter.
- Turn on welding and set the temperature to 260 °C. When it warms up, the lights will go out.
- We slide the parts of the pipes that we want to weld onto the welding attachments to a depth up to the drawn mark. At the same time, we do not rotate the pipes or make any twisting movements.
- As soon as the pipes are placed on the nozzles and begin to move along the nozzles, we count down 7 seconds. After this, remove the attachments; a second person must hold the welding machine.
- We connect the pipes to each other without making rotational movements - quickly and smoothly. Hold it for a few seconds.
The result should be a smooth and beautiful perpendicular connection. If you are not happy with the result, cut off the section with the connection and repeat the procedure from the very beginning.
Before using newly welded pipes, you need to let them cool slightly.
Plumbing in a private house
After the pipes are connected to each other, you can begin laying pipes inside the house. We recommend starting with the water consumer.
To begin with, we connect the pipe to the consumer using an adapter for a threaded connection, install between the adapter and the tap hose ball valve, which is necessary to shut off the water if repairs are suddenly needed, then we lay it towards the collector. There are several here simple rules that must be observed:
- It is advisable that pipes do not pass through building construction(walls and partitions). But if this is not possible, when laying a pipe in the wall, it must be enclosed in a special glass.
- So that the pipes can be easily repaired, it makes sense to place them at a distance of 20 - 25 mm from the wall.
- When installing drain taps, make a slight slope towards the tap.
- When going around the outer corner, the pipe is located at a distance of 15 mm, and the inner corner - 30 - 40 mm.
- The pipes are secured to the walls with special clips. Be sure to secure it in each corner joint; on the straight section we place clips at a distance of 1.5 - 2 m.
- To connect polypropylene pipes at an angle, including 90°, special HDPE fittings and tees with identical and transitional diameters are used.
- The fewer turns and corners there are in the line, the less pressure is lost.
When connecting a pipe to a collector, it is necessary to install shut-off valves for the possibility of disconnecting the consumer from the system, including for the purpose of repair.
Connecting the pumping station to the internal water supply
Connecting a private house to the water supply is carried out through a pumping station, which pumps water from a source: a well or a well.
The pumping station is best located in the house, basement, ground floor or in a heated technical room. This will protect it from freezing and make it possible to use the water supply even in severe frost.
A pipe runs from the water intake source to the pumping station, which ends in a brass fitting with an adapter for a diameter of 32 mm.
We connect a tee with a drain valve to this fitting in order to be able to turn off the water supply to repair the water supply. Then we connect a check valve so that the water does not return back. If you need to rotate the pipe to direct it towards the station, then use a 90° angle.
- We connect the ball valve to turn off/on the water supply.
- Next is a coarse mesh filter.
- The finished pumping station must have a pressure switch and a damper tank. But if your pump is located in a water intake (well, well), and the rest of the equipment is in the house, then we connect a pressure switch on top of the pipe, and a damper tank or hydraulic accumulator on the bottom.
- A sensor that protects the pump from dry running.
- We connect a fine filter to the remaining connection.
- Next comes the transition to a pipe with a diameter of 25 mm.
Before further work, check that the connection is working properly: start the pump to see whether it will pump or not. If not, it means that something is connected incorrectly somewhere or the accumulator is over-inflated.
What is a hydraulic accumulator and why is it needed?
The hydraulic accumulator is a sealed tank divided into two sections. One contains water, the other contains air under pressure. This unit is necessary in order to ensure stable pressure in the water supply system and turn the pump on and off when needed.
For example, the accumulator is completely filled with water, the pressure in the system is 3 bar. When someone opens a tap in the house and uses water, it leaves the accumulator, the pressure drops, the relay is activated and the pump starts. Water is pumped again, the pressure becomes 3 bar.
The tank volume varies: from 25 liters to 500 liters, selected depending on the needs of the family.
Installing a water supply system in a private house does not necessarily require the presence of a hydraulic accumulator. You can use a large storage tank and install it on the highest floor of the house. Water will flow to consumers under pressure created by its weight. But such a system is not enough to work washing machine.
Water from the source must be tested in a laboratory for impurities and soluble salts. Depending on the results, various filter systems and water treatment units, iron removers, etc. are selected.
Immediately after the hydraulic accumulator, water must enter the water treatment system. These devices must be located at a distance of 0.5 - 1 m from the hydraulic accumulator.
Installation of collectors and boiler
After the filter systems, the water should be separated into two streams: one to the cold water collector, the second to the water heater.
Before the cold water collector, be sure to install shut-off valves and a drain valve. On every pipe in the manifold too. The number of pipes depends on the number of water consumers in the house.
Laying a water supply system to a private home would be incomplete without providing hot water.
We install on the pipe that leads to the water heater safety valve, expansion tank and ball drain valve immediately below the boiler.
At the outlet of hot water and the water heater, we also install a ball valve. Then we connect the pipe to a hot water collector, from which we distribute pipes throughout the house.
At this point, the installation of water supply in a private house with your own hands can be considered complete. Don’t forget to first check that the system is working and that there are no leaks in all areas of the water supply. If the results are positive, you can safely use it.
Plumbing in a private house: video review
In cases of unsatisfactory operation of the central water supply or in its absence, the VODAVOD company organizes an autonomous water supply for a private home. We have accumulated enormous experience in calculation, design, installation, commissioning works, which is sufficient for the implementation of standard and non-standard projects.
Our specialists can quickly establish an autonomous water supply for your private home - from small house up to two-, three- and more-storey cottages. We always take into account the real needs of a particular client, his wishes, financial capabilities, and design water supply in a private house on an individual basis. This allows us to achieve maximum efficiency, economy and rationality of each water supply system we develop.
The price of installing a turnkey water supply for a private house in Moscow
What do you get for this price?
Ready turnkey system:
- Hot and cold water supply;
- Water heater 80 liters;
- Hydraulic accumulator 100 liters;
- Heating cable;
- The ability to “mothball” the entire system;
- Materials the best manufacturers, time-tested (Italy, Serbia, Denmark, Spain, Turkey);
- Also included in the price Consumables and delivery.
Total turnkey cost: RUB 89,880.
Cost of work
| № | Name | Unit change | Quantity | Total price, rub. |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Installation of pumping equipment | PC. | 1 | 12 000 |
| 2 | Excavation work (trench 1.5-1.6 m deep) | m. | 5 | 7 000 |
| 3 | Installation of a drain valve in a well | PC. | 1 | 1 000 |
| 4 | Making a hole for pipe 32 | PC. | 2 | 1 000 |
| 5 | Corrugated cable installation | m. | 5 | 500 |
| 6 | Installation of water supply main | m. | 5 | 500 |
| 7 | Installation of heating cable | PC. | 1 | 1 000 |
| 8 | Installation of a coarse filter | PC. | 1 | 500 |
| 9 | Installation of liner to the water supply point (for one device) | PC. | 1 | 2 000 |
| 10 | Installation of a water heater and its connections | PC. | 1 | 2 800 |
Total cost of work: 28,300 rubles.
Cost of materials
| № | Name | Unit change | Quantity | Total price, rub. |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Well pump Grunfos SBA 3-35A | PC. | 1 | 21 000 |
| 2 | Stainless steel cable D3 mm, 630 kg | m. | 10 | 500 |
| 3 | Cable clamp 3mm, (DIN741) | PC. | 4 | 240 |
| 4 | Underwater cable for drinking water 3x1.5 mm 2 | m. | 15 | 1000 |
| 5 | Hydroseal | PC. | 1 | 500 |
| 6 | Corrugation | m. | 15 | 500 |
| 7 | CYKLON Pressure pipe PE100 DN32x2.4 PN12.5 SDR 13.6 | m. | 10 | 1 000 |
| 8 | Kalde d=20x4.4 (PN 20) Reinforced polypropylene pipe (fiberglass) | m. | 10 | 650 |
| 9 | Flexible hose 1" | PC. | 1 | 1 000 |
| 10 | Itap IDEAL 091 1" Valve ball coupling/full bore thread (lever) | PC. | 2 | 2 200 |
| 11 | Internal heating cable with 4m seal (Spain) | PC. | 1 | 4 800 |
| 12 | Energoflex Thermal Insulation SUPER 35/9mm (2m) | m. | 4 | 200 |
| 13 | Itap IDEAL 091 3/4" Ball valve, full bore coupling/thread (lever) | PC. | 2 | 900 |
| 14 | AquaFilter AQM Housing 10" inlet 3/4" FHPR1-B filter assembly (cartridge, key, bracket) | PC. | 1 | 1 500 |
| 15 | Gorenje TG 80 NB6 vertical storage water heater, mounted. Metal casing | PC. | 1 | 9 600 |
| 16 | Hydraulic accumulator Model 100 l for water supply vertical (blue) | PC. | 1 | 6 000 |
| 17 | Axial pressure gauge 50mm, 0-6 bar | PC. | 1 | 600 |
| 18 | Itap 110 1" Five-way distributor for pumps and containers | PC. | 1 | 700 |
| 19 | Watts PA 5 MI Pressure switch 1-5 bar | PC. | 1 | 1 200 |
| 20 | Power socket | PC. | 1 | 400 |
| 21 | Power plug | PC. | 1 | 200 |
| 22 | Consumables | PC. | 1 | 2 000 |
| 23 | Set of polypropylene fittings | PC. | 1 | 1 890 |
| 24 | Delivery of materials* | PC. | 1 | 3 000 |
Total cost of materials: 61,580 rubles.
Turnkey autonomous water supply system for a private house
Competent autonomous water supply for a private home begins with careful calculation and design work, research into the composition and characteristics of soil, soil, and analysis of a number of external and internal factors. It is also important to know for what purposes the water will be used, in what volume, the seasonality of residence at the site, and the average number of people staying in the house. Depth of aquifers, presence/absence nearby industrial facilities, landfills, groundwater.
High-quality and uninterrupted water supply is a whole complex of connection diagrams for various components, pipelines, components and assemblies complex system independent water supply. Therefore, the development, installation, and arrangement of water supply and sewerage systems must be trusted to highly qualified specialists. The VODAVOD company will undertake not only the installation of an autonomous water supply in a private house, but also the entire range of related work:
- Drilling a well or well. Depending on the purpose and volume of water consumption, we offer two options for water supply to the facility - borehole and well. The latter option is ideal for small volumes of consumption, seasonal living or watering a household plot. A well water supply project for a private home is much cheaper than a well project, as it involves a minimum of time and labor costs. Borehole water supply to the facility means virtually unlimited volumes of crystal clear water that can be consumed year-round without any risks to pumping and filtering equipment.
- Plumbing in a private house. If there was no water supply at the site previously, we will perform a full range of work on laying pipes, installing fittings, and plumbing equipment. If the house already has an installed pipeline, our specialists will assess its actual condition and, if necessary, replace damaged or worn elements. We will also insulate water supply pipes in a private house if you plan to live in it during the cold season.
- Commissioning works. Mandatory stage, which involves step-by-step testing of each element of the water supply and sewerage system, identifying possible problems or defects in the system.
Trust us to organize water supply in a private home, and you will receive high-quality, economical and reliable water supply for your home.
Water supply scheme for a private house
The layout and layout of autonomous water supply pipes in a private house depends on a number of factors:
- Number of storeys and architectural features object;
- Number and schematic placement of water supply and drainage points;
- Remoteness of the water intake source;
- Water intake depth;
- Methods of raising water;
- Purpose of the consumed resource.
Our specialists will develop the most profitable and practical scheme for laying water supply and sewerage systems, taking into account the above and a number of other nuances, and select the most suitable diameter of pipes and shut-off valves for a specific object.
Laying out water supply pipes
The installation of water supply pipes in a private house can be done in one of the following options:
- Collector. It involves connecting each individual consumer separately. In this case, the regulating shut-off valves are located in a single manifold. The advantages include ease of use, aesthetics and practicality. The disadvantage is that the cost of installing a water supply of this type is higher.
- Magistralnaya. It involves connecting each consumer through tees to the main shut-off valves. The advantages are space saving, lower cost compared to the collector type. The downside is more complex controls. The main water supply circuit can be open or closed.
Our experts will help you choose the most advantageous options for laying water supply pipes, taking into account the architecture of the house, the geometry of the premises, the personal wishes and preferences of the client.
Autonomous water supply device for a private house
If you need a truly reliable, highly efficient, practical and durable water supply system for a private home, contact real professionals. The VODAVOD company provides the most profitable and comfortable conditions interactions:
- Objective and transparent pricing;
- Convenient payment methods;
- Individual approach;
- Maximum efficiency of work execution, regardless of its complexity and volume;
- Warranty for work, materials used, equipment;
- Consulting and service support.
With us you will save your own time and money.
Call or write to us right now - managers will tell you in detail about the advantages and guarantees of the VODAVOD company, calculate the cost and timing of the work. Remember that only our price for autonomous water supply for a turnkey private house in Moscow is one of the most affordable in the capital region.
Ecolife Group carries out the design and installation of various turnkey water supply systems for private houses, cottages, buildings and other facilities. The company also accepts Maintenance and repairs all types of water supply system equipment.
Contract for the water supply system and a complete set of documents
Our company works with legal entities and individuals. We conclude an agreement for all services provided, which is a document that clearly defines the cost and timing of the work. Pre-agreed terms reduce risks for both parties, and also ensure the benefits of the transaction for the seller and buyer.
Signing the certificates of completed work and acceptance and transfer of equipment means the successful completion of the work. We provide a full package of documents, including invoices, acts, invoices and cash receipts for cash payments, commissioning reports, and system settings.
After completing the work, we continue to work with you as a consultant and service organization.
Content:
1. Features of installing a private water supply at home when connected to centralized system water supply (WSS).
2. Water supply scheme for a private house
3. Features of installing a private water supply at home when connected to an AIV, an autonomous source of water supply (well or well).
4. Internal water supply system (internal water supply) in a private house
5. Selection of material for internal water supply pipes
6. Selecting the diameter of internal water supply pipes
7. Wiring internal system water supply in a private house
8. External water supply
An engineer’s visit to calculate the cost of work is free of charge.
Water supply for a private home: how we work
To calculate the cost of installing water supply at home, call us or send us your existing water supply project. We will calculate the price of water supply installation within a day.
The water supply of a private house, in terms of its installation, is organized almost similarly to the work that is performed in an apartment. With the exception that the homeowner has the right to distribute consumers to any premises of his house, because There are no prohibiting standards in this regard. But common sense calls for the entire “wet” area (bathrooms, kitchen, laundry) to be arranged compactly. Otherwise, the length of the internal water supply system increases significantly, which automatically negatively affects pressure drops in the system and its hydraulic resistance.
Water supply scheme for a private house
Serial connection of water supply consumers
This option is used quite rarely and only for buildings with a small area and low water consumption (for example, based on 1-2 permanent residents). Usually it is chosen in cases where they plan to remove the pipeline behind the partition (optionally, into the wall).
For a cottage or house for a family of 3 or more people who live in it permanently, the mentioned scheme is not suitable.
Connection principle. Plumbing is laid throughout the house. At each point of consumption, a drain is made from the riser (sequentially), onto which a tee (water outlet) is placed. It is connected to: input, consumer, output. When using the first two or three water outlets simultaneously, the pressure in the last one approaches zero.
Parallel connection of consumers
The mentioned connection is that each consumer has its own branch from the common pipeline. Thanks to this solution, equal pressure is achieved at any point of water collection, regardless of its distance from the location of the pump (pumping station). There will certainly be losses, but significantly less than in the first option.
Parallel connection can be made using a tee or collector circuit.
Tee circuit
This option is used when the water supply system provides for the presence of cold and hot water risers (i.e., in both apartment buildings and private houses). The first is laid either from the pump or from the central water supply. The second is from the water heater (boiler). The diameter of the outlet pipes can match the main ones or be thinner. The choice depends on the number of elements installed on it that increase the resistance this area. This is the most popular solution.
Collector circuit
The main difference is that the drainage from the risers is not carried out to each water collection point, but to special collectors. End consumers are powered by them. In this case, pipes can be laid directly to each tap, etc., which simplifies the installation diagram of the water supply system.
This version is more preferable for houses large area with a significant diversity of consumers. The undoubted advantage of this option is the ability to disconnect a certain area or a specific consumer for subsequent replacement or repair.
The cost of plumbing increases significantly (primarily due to an increase in the amount of required materials). But the benefits obtained greatly outweigh these costs. Therefore, only this option will be considered further in the text.
An individual residential building can be connected to one of two sources of water supply: to a centralized water supply, or to an autonomous source, which can be a well or a borehole.
Features of installation of private water supply when connected to a centralized system (CVS)
The undoubted benefit of the mentioned option is significant cost savings on organizing water supply to a private house, guaranteed quality of the received water in terms of SanPiN requirements (in extreme cases, this issue can be resolved by installing a water treatment system together with a water treatment system), and guaranteed supply pressure.
The homeowner only needs to connect to the mains through the inspection well closest to his house. And lay a pipeline from it to your own building at a depth that prevents freezing of the water supply.
If desired, you can install a pump that increases the supply pressure. Typically, this question arises when the existing central water supply systems are morally and technically outdated and are not able to supply water in the required volumes and under the required pressure. In such conditions, without an additional pump they will not be able to work. gas water heaters, neither Appliances(washing machine, etc.).
And, without fail, resolve the issue with water disposal (sewage). The ideal solution would be to connect the house to a centralized sewer. Otherwise, you will have to arrange it yourself.
Another issue that requires a mandatory solution. It will be necessary to provide technical feasibility completely shutting off the water supply to the facility and its drainage (very important for buildings intended for seasonal residence).
Sequence of work on connecting private water supply
It is required to obtain a plan of your site (M 1:500), which indicates all underground communications passing through it (from Rosreestr). Perhaps, in a particular locality, obtaining the mentioned document directly from the water utility (paid service);
. This plan, application and a set of title documents confirming the applicant’s rights to the land and the connected house are submitted to the district water utility office. After 30 calendar days, the applicant receives specifications for connection;
. With a set of these documents (for land, house and technical specifications), an application is submitted to the local SES, in which the applicant asks to issue an opinion on the possibility of connecting the object to the central heating system;
. Next, you will need to conclude an agreement, according to which a project is made based on the received specifications. Only an organization that has the appropriate license has the right to carry out work. The easiest way is to place the mentioned order with the appropriate water utility service. But there are a number of other performers;
. The received design and estimate documentation is registered in the SES;
. The next step is to obtain permission to carry out land work (in the relevant public services: gas, electricity, etc.) in the location you choose;
. Work on the direct laying of the main line is carried out by licensed organizations, a list of which is available in the water utility. An appropriate agreement should be concluded with one of them;
. Doing the work yourself is prohibited by law;
. Having completed the installation and installed water meters, you need to call a representative of the local water utility to draw up an Act, which is a legal confirmation of the commissioning of these devices;
. The last document is an agreement, on the basis of which the water utility undertakes to supply you with water, and the owner of the site, to pay for its receipt according to the meters.
Set of documents and requirements for private water supply
Acts of hidden work:
- To fill the pipe with sand;
- For backfilling of an open trench;
. Certificate for performing hydraulic tests of the laid pipeline;
. An act of disinfection of the installed water supply and its subsequent flushing (this act is submitted to the SES, after which the latter issues official permission to connect it);
. Certificate confirming the installation of the meter;
. All work must be carried out under technical supervision by a representative of the water utility;
. The actual insertion into the central water supply system is carried out by the water utility team based on the package of documents provided by the customer.
Features of installation of private water supply when connected to an autonomous source (well or well)
Usually, autonomous water supply sources (AWS) are equipped with deep well pump. A pipe is led into the house from the AIV. A filter and a hydraulic tank are installed in the building itself, which is necessary to create a supply of water and compensate for possible water hammer. This is the first connection option.
The second depends on the depth of the equipped water intake and the required for the system intra-house water supply pressure in the system.
If a deep well is drilled, the installed pump operates under significant loads, which causes its failure. To compensate for its overload, you can use the following simple technical solution.
It is recommended to install a 200 liter water tank at the entrance to the house. The pump supplies water to it. But at the same time, it is not necessary to create the pressure required for the indoor water supply system. A relay is mounted on the barrel, or next to it, which turns on the pump when the water level in the tank drops below a predetermined level, and turns it off when the maximum is exceeded. Water is drawn from this container by a conventional pumping station. She is also responsible for creating the required pressure in the home water supply. This relieves the well pump and reduces its total operating time.
In the case when the well is made according to the “sand” principle, a pumping station is required. A check valve is installed in the well itself. The pipeline from the existing water intake to the building is laid taking into account that the water will need to be raised no more than 8 meters (in this case, the length of the pipeline section from the house to the well must be taken into account).
Internal water supply system (internal water supply) in a private house
Regardless of which water supply system project you choose, the installed circuit will necessarily contain the following elements:
Source of water supply (water intake), which can be a water supply system of a central water supply system, a well or a well;
. Pumping station. From the CVS source, the pipe supplies water to the pump at the inlet, which must have a check valve to prevent water from returning to the source;
. A water tank (hydraulic accumulator), from which the water in it is supplied to the in-house water supply system;
. Immediately after this container, a tee with a shut-off valve is mounted on the outlet pipe, from which one branch will be directed to household needs, the second to technical ones (car wash, vegetable garden, etc.);
. The pipeline for household needs is sent to the water treatment and water purification system in order to completely eliminate the presence of harmful impurities in it;
. Next, a tee is installed again, dividing the water into cold water and the one that will be supplied to the DHW system(hot water supply);
. The cold water supply (CWS) pipe is connected to the corresponding collector. It is here that shut-off valves are installed on each of the lines outgoing to a specific consumer;
. The pipe supplying water to the domestic hot water system is connected to the heating boiler;
. From the boiler, the pipeline is supplied to the DHW collector, from which distribution is carried out throughout the building.
Each specific scheme may contain additional elements. However, the sequence of connection and configuration standard scheme don't change.
Selecting material for domestic water supply pipes
This task is a priority and must be solved at the design stage of the water supply system.
Currently, pipes made from the following materials can be used to perform the work mentioned.
1. Steel pipes
Most old version. These pipes can be divided into two groups: those without a special coating, those with the mentioned coating (galvanized, anodized).
2. Copper pipes
The following types of copper pipes are used for water supply:
. solid, unannealed. D = (10 - 108) mm;
. semi-solid. D = (6 - 159) mm;
. soft annealed. D = (6-22) mm. These pipes can be supplied in PE sheaths.
3. Stainless steel corrugated pipes
Pipes of the type in question appeared on the Russian market building materials not so long ago. Supplied to the end user in coils. The products are quite expensive. Therefore, it has limited demand. Mainly for installation of OS and warm water floors. Because These pipes have excellent heat dissipation.
4. Polyethylene pipes
In private housing construction they are used exclusively in outdoor areas. PE pipes marked with a blue stripe are intended for water supply. An internal water supply system from them is installed very rarely. Therefore, we will not dwell on them in detail.
5. Polypropylene pipes (PP)
PP pipes are a type of plastic pipes offered by trade in two versions:
. ordinary pipes;
. foil pipes (for hot water supply). They are visually distinguished by a visible ring on the end cut (this is foil);
. pipes reinforced with glass fiber (for hot water supply). The visual difference is that the ring on the cut is not gray, as in the first case, but red.
Available with walls of different thicknesses (designed for different pressures). The last value is indicated in the labeling. For example: pipe brand PN20 - withstands up to 20 atm. The specifications indicate the outer diameter, the value of which can be in the range of 20 - 110 mm.
For installation of PP pipes, they are equipped with a wide variety of fittings.
The most popular today. Type of pipes for installation of an internal water supply system.
6. Metal-plastic pipes
This is a multilayer structure, the walls of which consist of 3 layers: in the center there is metal foil (in the vast majority of brands it is aluminum), and at the edges there are layers of plastic.
They are offered to the end consumer in coils of various lengths (purchase by the meter is possible).
Fittings of various shapes are used to assemble a water supply system. The assembly technology is the simplest. To work, it is enough to have a set of wrenches and metal scissors (option, hacksaws) to cut a part of the pipe to the required length. It is advisable to also have a file (for cleaning possible burrs at the cut site).
It can be assembled either in a detachable (repairable) version (for this, collet connections are used) or in a one-piece version. In this case, press fittings are used.
But, in the latter case, a special, and very expensive, tool is required.
Despite a fairly large number of shortcomings, it shares first and second place in demand among clients planning the installation of water supply systems.
Selecting the diameter of internal water supply pipes
It is very important to correctly select the required diameter in each specific case, since the use of pipes with diameters smaller than those required by calculations will lead to intense turbulence.
This process is accompanied by two very unpleasant phenomena: the loud noise that the water creates when moving, and rapid growth lime deposits on the internal walls of the pipeline.
The selected diameter influences the choice of length of the mounted system. And vice versa.
For example:
. if the total length of the pipeline is ≤ 30 m, then it can be assembled from pipes, d=25 mm;
. if the mentioned length is ≥ 30 m, then pipes d=32 mm are required;
. short pipelines, ≤ 10 m, can be installed from pipes d=20 mm.
When making calculations, you must keep in mind that the actual internal flow area of the pipes depends on the wall thickness of the pipe brand you have chosen and can vary (for a standard PP pipe with a diameter of 32 mm) from 26 mm (with a wall thickness of 2.8 mm) to 20 mm (with a wall thickness of 6 mm).
The correctly selected diameter is the key to the simultaneous full functioning of several water collection points.
The calculations are quite simple. It is believed that one tap can flow up to 6 liters of water per minute. It is necessary to determine the number of consumers in the house that can be used simultaneously and sum up their total consumption per unit of time. Thus, the required diameter of the collector pipes is calculated.
For a small family, with large quantities consumers in the house, the required calculations are performed differently. The total consumption is calculated and reduced by 25 - 40 percent. And the required diameter is selected for this flow rate.
The throughput capacity of the pipe diameters most in demand for installation of water pipelines is:
. 1.00” (25 mm) - 30 l/min;
. 1.25” (32 mm) - 50 l/min;
. 1.50” (38 mm) - 75 l/min.
Wiring of an internal water supply system in a private house
The installation of an internal water supply system in a private house begins with the installation of pipes. Depending on the material chosen, the installation technology will have distinctive features. We will look at them below. After the pipe connection is completed, you can begin the actual installation. Usually the work starts from a specific consumer.
The supply pipe is connected to the consumer. Ideally, it is desirable to provide for the installation of a shut-off ball valve on each of the connection lines in order to be able to repair and replace a given consumer without shutting down the entire system. From this tap the pipe is led to the collector. At the same time, it is advisable to follow a number of simple recommendations that will make your life much easier in the future.
The wiring should be done in such a way as to completely prevent the passage of the pipe through any building structures ( interior partitions, walls, etc.). As a last resort, reduce them to a minimum and use special glasses on such passages (the pipe is laid inside this glass);
. For the convenience of subsequent repair and maintenance of laid pipelines, they should be placed at a distance of at least 20 mm from the wall surface;
. When installing taps, make a slight slope of the pipe towards the latter;
. The pipe that goes around the outer corner of the wall should be 15 mm away from its surface;
. If the internal corner is bypassed, this distance increases to 40 mm;
. There are special clips for fixing pipes to walls. Their installation in each of the corner joints is mandatory. On a flat section of the wall they are placed in increments of 1500 - 2000 mm;
. During installation, it is necessary to minimize the number of corners and turns, because they reduce the pressure in the water supply system.
External section of water supply
Connection to the central heating network
The work can be performed in two ways: classic, trench (it is possible to do it yourself) or the method of inclined (horizontal) directional drilling (HDD). Here you will need special equipment. The latter option allows you to reduce the time required to complete the work while significantly improving their quality. In this case, the top layer of soil is not disturbed, so no work to restore it will be required.
Pipes should be buried at a distance from the soil surface, which is 300 -500 mm greater than the freezing depth in your region. The trench for laying the water supply system is made with a slope towards the building being connected, at the rate of ≥ 30 mm per 1 linear meter. Shut-off valves are installed in the inspection well, the parameters of which are set in the received specifications. Insertion into the central water supply pipeline is carried out ONLY by the water utility team!
In cases where laying a pipe at the required depth is impossible ( traditional method) due to the high occurrence of groundwater, there are standard engineering solutions. For example, a pipe with a heating cable and a heat-insulating outer layer is used. And the water supply is brought into the house through a corrugated pipe (if the entrance is provided above the ground surface level). Similar pipes sold as a set.
Pipes for laying external pipelines
The best choice currently is PE (polyethylene) pipes. Their visual difference is a longitudinal blue stripe. Their main advantage over PP (polypropylene) pipes is that they (with diameters ≤ 63 mm) are produced in coils of 200 (100) meters, which allows installation without joints. The most common diameter when laying an external water supply from a house to a well is 32 mm pipes.
Passing a pipe through the foundation
This area belongs to a high-risk zone, because pipes most often freeze in this particular place. Even if the entrance is made below the freezing depth. This is explained by the properties of concrete.
A “pass-through case” is installed at the passage point. For d=32 mm, a case with a diameter of 50 mm is selected.
The pipeline itself is placed in a heat insulator. Next, the case is stuffed to prevent groundwater from entering the house. The simplest option The packing involves the use of braided rope for the mentioned purposes (hammered into the middle part), and the edges on both sides are clogged with clay.
When performing this stage of work, it is necessary to take into account one small nuance. The pipe into the house should be inserted THROUGH the foundation, and not under it. This is explained simply. Once the foundation has been poured, it is prohibited to carry out any work underneath it.
The passage of the water supply through the wall of the inspection well must also be sealed. Especially if the groundwater is high. The water supply entry point must be at least 1500 mm away from the sewer entry point (according to SNiP).
Step-by-step installation of external water supply
1. A trench is being excavated for laying pipes.
2. A layer of sand 70 - 100 mm thick is added to the cushion (spilled and compacted).
3. A PE or PP pipe is laid (optimal diameter 32 mm);
4. Hydraulic tests are carried out with the test pressure exceeding the working pressure by 1.5 times (tests can be carried out with air).
5. The laid pipe is covered with a layer of sand (100mm) and lightly compacted.
6. The trench is filled up.
Having a good water supply system in a private house or cottage is one of the mandatory conditions comfortable stay. Very rarely in country house There is a central water supply, so the owner has to solve the problem of uninterrupted water supply to the home on his own. Home water supply systems must be carefully designed and thought out before the smallest details so that the owner has free access to a high-quality source of water and ensures daily comfort.
Types of water supply systems
Water supply scheme for a private house
If there is a source of input on the site of a private house, then you can equip it with the help of a pump. Submersible device will pump water into a special storage tank in the house with a capacity of up to 500 liters. Storage capacity separated by a membrane or relay, which allows you to adjust the fluid pressure in it. When the tank is filled to capacity, the water supply pump is turned off, and if the water is used, the pump pumps water into the tank again. According to the presented diagram, the water supply system consists of the following parts:
Well or well.
A pumping station allows you to draw water from a water supply source.
Hydraulic accumulator - creates a certain pressure in the system.
Special filters that purify and prepare water for use.
Equipment for heating water.
Collector system.
General water supply scheme
Experts advise installing water supply systems at home in spring or summer time, when groundwater is not so high, the soil itself is easy to process, and digging is faster. Installing a hydraulic accumulator, which allows you to control the pump on and off, is optional. In this case, other pump control methods are used. The layout of the water supply can be varied - it all depends on the wishes of the owners who decided to make their home more comfortable.
Well for water supply
The well is considered one of the most accessible and common sources of water for private homes. This method is preferred if the water is at a depth of 5-15 meters. Depth and productivity are the main criteria when constructing a well. The water in the source must be sufficient to meet the needs. If you have a well, you can provide your home with liquid in the amount of 500 liters per day.
The well should not be located close to above-ground buildings (at least 5 meters). And also to sources of possible pollution: sewers, toilets, landfills (at least 50 meters).
Diagram of the correct well
The procedure for performing actions when constructing a well:
Determining the location of the well using ionomer frames.
Selection of building materials: reinforced concrete rings, brick, stone, processed logs.
Digging a well manually or using special equipment.
Interior and exterior finishing works.
One of the advantages of supplying water to a private home using a well is that in the absence of electricity, water can be extracted from it manually using a rope and a bucket. In addition, the price for digging a well is much less than for installing a well, especially an artesian one.
A few more advantages of wells:
Service life - about half a century;
There is no need to collect a package of official papers to install a well on your country property;
All work on cleaning and disinfecting the well is convenient to carry out, thanks to the large diameter of the rings;
Availability of clean water, free of rust and chlorine.
Water supply from a well
Wells “on sand” are so called because during the construction process they dig the upper layers of sandy soil, following a layer of loam, which serves as an excellent filter for groundwater. The depth of such a well reaches 50 meters. If, when drilling a source 15 meters deep, they fall onto the bed of an underwater river, this is considered a great success. After all, now filters and pipes will not become clogged with sand due to the fact that this layer consists exclusively of pebbles.
Drilling is carried out in the following ways:
You can manually drill a well up to 10 meters deep;
Percussion-rope drilling;
Mechanized method of driving a well;
Rotary percussion drilling;
Hydrodynamic method.
Diagram and difference between the two types of wells
After drilling a well, a metal or plastic pipe is lowered into it, which fits tightly to the soil and prevents it from crumbling. Next, a water supply is being constructed using a sand well. The service life of such sources is about 10 years.
Supplying water to a private home using an artesian well will be much more difficult than in previous cases. However, such a source will last up to 50 years. In addition, an artesian well does not depend on climatic conditions and always has a consistently high flow rate. Any natural and technological contaminants do not penetrate into artesian water, since the layer of water-resistant clay is a reliable natural filter. Such a source can be drilled in any area country house, unlike a sand well. When choosing an artesian well as a source of water supply in a private house, it is necessary to ensure free passage for the drilling machine to the head.
General requirements for the area for drilling an artesian well:
Availability of free territory for drilling measuring 4×12 m;
Ensuring a free height of 10 meters (no tree branches or electrical wires);
Absence of sewage drains, landfills, toilets in the nearest 50-100 meters;
The gate in the yard must be at least three meters wide.
Several main advantages of water supply to a country house using an artesian well: high flow rate - from 500 to 1000 liters per hour, uninterrupted water supply High Quality, long-term operation of the source. Disadvantages include the high cost of drilling. But it all depends on the time of year (drilling is cheaper in winter) and the depth of the selected equipment.
Water heating of a private house
After installing the water supply of a country house, water heating is connected according to the accepted scheme. This design is a closed system consisting of the following elements:
Boiler - heats water and sends it to radiators, which gradually release heat into the house. Having cooled down in them, the water again enters the boiler.
Radiators - the principle of their operation is the circulation of a thermal element (water), which in the process of passing gives off its thermal energy. Radiators differ in materials of manufacture and level of heat transfer.
