Mineral wool - ceiling insulation

Types of insulation

Mineral wool

• Mineral wool refers to textile fibers obtained either from a melt of glass (glass wool), or from a melt of blast furnace slag (slag wool), or from melts of volcanic rocks (stone wool). The thickness of the ceiling insulation in the form of mineral wool can be from 20 to 200mm.
• Mineral wool is supplied in rolls and bales and, accordingly, can look like a block or like a carpet. The latter type of outlet may have a foil side, which significantly increases the thermal insulation effect.

• Foil polyethylene foam It is foamed polyethylene glued to a layer of aluminum foil. The thickness of the insulation can be from 1 to 20mm, the width of the roll is 1m.
• Despite the small thickness of the insulation, it is quite effective, thanks to the foil, which acts as a heat reflector. Sometimes thin foil polyethylene foam is used in combination with other insulation, building on top of each other, for example, mineral wool is covered with it, which, firstly, increases the power of the thermal barrier and, secondly, does not allow carcinogenic substances emanating from mineral wool to be sprayed.

Styrofoam

• Polystyrene foam as insulation is a foamed cellular plastic mass enclosed in a square correct form, with sides 100×100cm. The thickness of the product varies and ranges from 20 to 100mm. The density of such blocks can also be different: 15 kg/m 2 or 25 kg/m 2 (this is the density of foam plastic that is usually used in construction for insulating premises).
• Foam sheets are used as intermediate insulation for wall and hanging frames, and are installed as a rough base before. Depending on the purpose, the density of the material also changes.

Polyplex

• Extruded polystyrene foam or polyplex is produced by polymer extrusion, that is, it is pressed through the desired shape and sheets of 120x60cm are obtained. The thickness of the material starts from 10mm and ends at 200mm, including all intermediate sizes that are multiples of zero. Typically, products with a density of 35 kg/cm 2 or 45 kg/cm 2 are used in construction.
• Penoplex happens different color, a chamfer is made along the perimeter of the sheet for more dense installation. Due to its high density, such ceiling insulation is most often used as a rough base for putty.

• Expanded clay is made from fusible clay, it is porous, oval-shaped and very light. Such insulation is usually used for backfilling in the attic of a house whose ceiling needs to be insulated. It is also used as a thermal cushion under the screed, which is sometimes poured in the attic.

Advice. When working with any type of mineral wool, use protective equipment, such as goggles, gloves and closed clothing. For those suffering from respiratory diseases, it is advisable to use a respirator or gauze bandage.

Methods for insulating the ceiling

Above

• The insulation materials that are installed on the attic side can be of any kind, since such material does not need to be secured with anything, but the only important thing is to tightly cover the entire plane, leaving no cracks or gaps.
• In this case, the question is: “Which insulation is better for the ceiling?” makes sense and has an answer. This is the insulation that will be cheaper and will have a sufficient level of thermal insulation. As a rule, expanded clay or mineral wool are used for the attic.

From below

• To install a thermal insulator from below you need either hanging frame, or special fastenings, since the insulation will need to be attached to the ceiling by weight. The easiest way is to fill the gap between the main and suspended ceilings with any insulation.

• As a rule, in such cases, be it mineral wool, polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam, the insulation is threaded through U-shaped hangers for the frame suspended ceiling, and then frame (wooden or metal) profiles are installed. But this method of insulation is possible only if there is enough space in the ceiling cavity for insulation or, in other words, if it is possible to lower the suspended ceiling frame to a distance sufficient for installing insulation.

• Foil polyethylene foam can be used at almost any depth of the ceiling cavity, since you can attach the insulation to the ceiling with double-sided tape, and then, directly through it, attach the hangers and the frame itself.

• You can also lay ceiling insulation between frame wooden or metal profiles. When laying rigid materials such as polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam, gaps remain that need to be blown in polyurethane foam.

• But, if you are not going to install it, two types of insulation will suit you - penoplex and 25-density foam.

• To attach such panels you will need glue for foam plastic or for ceramic tiles(both types are suitable) and dowel mushrooms. The polymer sheet is smeared with glue and applied to the pre-primed ceiling, and after the glue has partially dried, it is additionally fixed with fungi. Polystyrene foam is fixed at five points (in the corners and in the center), and penoplex, due to the higher density of the material, at two points (at the edges).

Advice. If you decide to putty the surface using polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam, then it is better to attach the insulation only after you have leveled the main ceiling itself. This way, it will be easier for you to install the foam and the insulation will not have to support the heavy weight of the putty, which is used to level the finishing surface over the insulation.

Conclusion

All insulation materials are exactly the same, as they perform the same function. The difference between them is only in the installation methods and the possibility of use in certain cases. So in most cases, the choice of thermal insulator depends on personal preference.

Insulating the ceiling in a private home is a procedure that is often neglected by owners, focusing on the walls. And in vain - a lot of heat is consumed through the roof. After all, warm air is lighter and therefore rises. If the ceiling is not insulated, then the heat does not meet any obstacles and freely comes out. By understanding how to properly insulate the ceiling, you can significantly reduce heat loss - the house will not have to be heated for a long time using expensive energy sources.

Methods

Ceiling insulation in a private house can be done in three ways. The first option is to insulate the ceiling from inside the room. It is possible if the architectural features of the building do not allow for external (attic) thermal insulation.

Therefore, the second method is to insulate the ceiling in the attic, from the outside. This is the most popular method of thermal insulation, which is not only easier and faster to implement, but also the cheapest. The third method is combined, which involves insulation, both external and internal. Basically, it is used for large heat losses in the room.

Materials

To insulate the ceiling you will need the following materials:

• insulation material (mineral wool and polystyrene foam);
• waterproofing material (glassine);
• edged board, nails and wooden slats;
• mounting foam for sealing.

To cut slats the right size, you will need a hacksaw and an electric jigsaw. Foam boards can be cut with a knife.

Insulation of the ceiling from the inside can be done with your own hands using tiled mineral and non-bulk polymer materials, which include expanded polystyrene, polystyrene foam, and mineral wool. Expanded clay, sawdust, and insulating bulk components based on polymer mixtures are suitable for external thermal insulation.

Roof work

Before insulating the ceiling in a private house, you should insulate the roof. Most residential buildings are equipped gable roof and they are insulated from the inside after construction is completed. One of the insulation options:

• the entire roof cladding is covered with a layer of waterproofing;
• a wooden sheathing is installed to install insulation;
• insulation boards are laid between the sheathing slats;
• all gaps and cracks are filled with polyurethane foam;
• boards are nailed down to secure the insulation boards.

It is important that between waterproofing film and the insulation left space for ventilation - the air will pick up water vapor and carry it out of the room. If there is no ventilation, the humidity will rise and condensation will appear.

Mineral wool

In private houses, the ceiling is insulated from the attic side. This makes it easier to install yourself and does not reduce living space. Let's look at how to insulate a ceiling with mineral wool. First of all, it is necessary to prepare the attic floor area for insulation according to the following scheme:

• the attic floor is covered with a vapor-proof film;
• wooden slats are fastened at such a distance that blocks of mineral wool can fit between them;
• if heat loss is significant, the insulation is laid in several layers;
• the last layer of insulation must cover the beams, otherwise the tree may become a “bridge of cold;
• the remaining voids are filled with pieces of foam plastic or blown with construction foam;
• a second layer of vapor barrier film is installed.

Increased attention to moisture insulation is due to the fact that mineral wool, when exposed to a humid environment, loses its thermal insulation characteristics.

It is better to spread film for moisture insulation with a reserve. The edges of the film are attached to the walls or side beams using a stapler. After insulation in the attic, you can arrange residential or utility rooms.

If you plan to frequently use the attic space, then it is worth laying a floor made of boards on top of the thermal insulation. If the attic will not be used, it is enough to nail a few boards to move along them as if on paths.

Expanded clay

If mineral wool is not suitable as insulation, you can insulate the ceiling with expanded clay. Expanded clay has many advantages:

• it is not damaged by rodents;
• expanded clay is a bulk insulation material, so it can fill any space;
• thermal insulation using expanded clay will last a long time

But you need to remember that expanded clay has relatively poor thermal insulation characteristics, so you may need a lot of insulation. This will increase the pressure on the floors of the house. As a conclusion: expanded clay is used to insulate the ceiling in case of insignificant heat loss, when you can get by with a small amount of this material. Expanded clay does not react to a humid environment, so it does not need to be protected with waterproofing materials.

Working with foam plastic

Polystyrene foam is a very popular insulation material. It is produced in the form of slabs. To insulate rooms, you can also purchase bulk foam. When deciding on choosing insulation, many people choose polystyrene foam. And for good reason – it has very advantageous characteristics:

• polystyrene foam is a lightweight material, so the pressure on the supporting structures will be minimal;
• installation of slabs can be done independently;
• foam boards can always be trimmed with a knife so that they fit inside the sheathing;
• modern polystyrene foam is not afraid of fire and has a low cost.

Installation stages

Ceiling insulation with foam plastic consists of the following procedures:

• the ceiling is covered with waterproofing (glassine) - the glassine is cut into strips so that the material fits between the beams;
• 5 cm of material is left on the side of the beams, and then the glassine is attached with wooden slats to the ends of the beams;
• foam slabs are cut with a knife so that they fit between the ceiling beams;
• all cracks are filled with polyurethane foam;
• a second layer of glassine is laid on top of the structure.

The amount of insulation is calculated based on the heat loss of the building. Sometimes you have to put several layers of mineral wool on top of the foam layer. The insulating structure is mounted so that the upper edges of the floor beams are covered with insulation.

Even when insulating the ceiling with your own hands, it is worth seeking advice from a specialist in order to know for sure the required amount of material and choose the right insulation.

14287 0 4

Which insulation for the ceiling to choose or 3 available methods self-insulation of the ceiling

When the question arises about maintaining heat in a house, the first thing an ordinary person immediately thinks of is insulating the walls and floors. But such a one-sided approach is fundamentally wrong, because even from school course physicists all know that warm air rises and if you do not take the ceiling into account, then all other efforts and investments will be in vain. In this article I will talk about which ceiling insulation is best to use and how to use three different ways insulate the ceiling in the house.

What to consider when choosing a material

When choosing insulation, there are several main evaluation criteria - the level of vapor permeability, flammability, weight and strength of the material itself, there is also a price, but this is rather a personal matter.

Ceilings may seem different only at first glance to an uninitiated person; in reality, there are only 2 types of ceilings - concrete and wooden:

• With concrete floor slabs everything is simple, they do not burn and have an enviable load-bearing capacity. Concrete itself is considered partially vapor permeable. But for floor slabs this indicator is so low that when choosing which insulation is best to equip the ceiling with, it can simply not be taken into account;
• Attic floors in private houses are often mounted on a wooden base, and wood, as you know, is a living material that burns well and transmits steam quite well. So if you block the air supply, the rafters will sooner or later begin to rot. At the same time, combustible insulation under the vault wooden house Is it dangerous.

Now we have reached one of the main parameters, which directly affects how to choose insulation. This is the location of the insulating layer. After all, the ceiling can be insulated both from the inside of the room and from above, that is, from the unheated side.

For an amateur, the simplest, most accessible and inexpensive option is to install an attic floor. After all, you must admit that here a person does not need to “fence” improvised scaffolding and balance on them, hemming the ceiling from below.

In addition, the question of how thick the insulation should be actually disappears with external installation; the more, the better, there is enough space. Moreover, you can use both slab and bulk material.

Installation from inside the room is a completely different matter. It’s not very common to find really high ceilings in our homes, which means that every centimeter will have to be borrowed from the living space. In my experience, owners rarely agree to “lower” the ceiling by more than 150 mm. Accordingly, the insulation must be selected that is light, durable and has the lowest thermal conductivity.

Now let's look at the materials that are most often used in construction, and at the same time analyze which of them are suitable for insulation in certain situations.

Foam insulation

Foam plastic is currently breaking all records of popularity in the household sector. The material is really light, accessible, and most importantly inexpensive. In our case, the strength of the foam is more than enough. Insulating the ceiling with foam plastic does not require exorbitant knowledge and high qualifications of the builder.

But there are a couple of unpleasant moments in this big barrel of honey. The vapor permeability of foam plastic is not much higher than that of the same concrete, plus the material burns quite well.

Whether it is possible to sew up a wooden ceiling with foam plastic from the inside or outside is a controversial issue. Theoretically, installing foam plastic from the inside onto wood is possible, because in this case there will be free access of air to the ceiling from above. But why build an environmentally friendly, breathable house and then clog the ceilings with waterproofing?

It is also undesirable to lay polystyrene foam in a continuous layer on top. Then the warm and humid air will have nowhere to go, and it will begin to accumulate in the wood, hence mold, mildew, etc.

Some craftsmen install foam plastic between the load-bearing floor beams, but I am against this approach. The minimum thickness of the beam starts from 150 mm, and if it is tightly clamped on both sides with waterproofing material, then it simply cannot cope with the onslaught of moisture from below and will begin to become damp.

Therefore, we conclude that polystyrene foam is perfect for insulation. reinforced concrete slabs ceilings, both outside and inside. When it comes to wooden floor, the use of polystyrene foam is undesirable.

Here I want to mention such a popular material today as extruded polystyrene foam. In order not to go into the intricacies of technology, I will just say that this is, figuratively speaking, the older brother of foam plastic.

It does not allow moisture to pass through at all and retains heat by a third better. Therefore, it can only be considered as a more effective alternative to polystyrene foam when insulating the inside of a concrete floor. There is an opportunity to get by with a smaller sheet thickness.

If you are insulating concrete floor foam from the inside, then you can get by with a slab thickness of 50 - 75 mm. In the case where the ceiling is insulated from the outside, the minimum thickness will be 100 mm.

Mineral wool as insulation

In terms of floor insulation, mineral wool is considered a more effective alternative to foam plastic. The range here is much wider. Both soft elastic mats and cotton slabs with a fairly high density are produced.

In the past, there was only one type of such insulation - glass wool. Although the characteristics of glass wool are very mediocre, due to its low cost it is still used. But I don’t recommend it to you, if you don’t pack yourself in tight overalls, after “communicating” with glass wool you will be itching for another 3 days.

In the cheap segment, you can use soft mineral wool mats; they are no longer so dangerous. Although I prefer to work with dense basalt wool slabs, they are versatile and can be installed on any surface.

Installing cotton wool with your own hands is no more difficult than working with polystyrene foam; in terms of weight, it is also not much heavier than its competitor, and most importantly, wool is an absolutely non-flammable material, plus it has high level vapor permeability.

But mineral wool has one very significant drawback. Along with high vapor permeability, it is capable of greatly accumulating moisture. Moreover, if dense slabs can still be dried somehow, then soft cotton mats after drying almost completely lose their previous volume, and therefore their thermal insulation characteristics.

It is believed that the thermal conductivity coefficient of cotton wool ranges from 0.3 to 0.4 W/mºK, that is, approximately at the same level as that of polystyrene foam. But these are tabular, laboratory data; due to the ability to absorb moisture in real living conditions, this thermal conductivity coefficient of cotton wool is several times higher.

The thickness of mineral wool when installed on the ceiling, compared to the same polystyrene foam, should be at least a third greater, and if we are talking about insulating a cold attic floor, then the thickness of the slabs is taken to be about 150 mm or more.

Don't think that I'm discouraging you from using cotton wool. Insulating ceilings with mineral wool is very convenient and, most importantly, effective. It can be mounted with equal success on any type of ceiling, both from the inside and the outside.

It’s just that this material, figuratively speaking, demands respect. The instructions must be followed strictly and then a positive result will not be long in coming.

Bulk insulation materials

As you probably understand, only attic floors from above can be insulated with bulk materials. At the moment, expanded clay is the leader in this direction.

Expanded clay granules are produced in three types of fractions. The smallest fraction is called sand and does not exceed 5 mm in diameter. Larger and more common granules have a diameter of up to 20 mm, they are called gravel. The so-called expanded clay crushed stone is granules with a diameter of 20 - 40 mm.

In terms of their characteristics, they are absolutely identical, the only difference is in size.

Expanded clay is relatively inexpensive. Compared to other bulk materials, there is not much dust from it. A big plus is that rodents are often indifferent to expanded clay.

Any bulk insulation, including expanded clay, is afraid high humidity, since they are all capable of gaining moisture.

Another inexpensive but quite effective insulation material is sawdust. I think everyone knows that the price for them is a pittance. But there is one nuance here: sawdust cannot be used fresh or in its pure form.

To prevent rodents from growing in such a dump, the sawdust needs to sit in a dry room for about a year. After this, they are mixed with the so-called “fluff” (slaked lime powder) in a ratio of 8:2 (sawdust-lime).

Insulation boards can also be made from the same resting sawdust. This is of course not basalt wool, but the efficiency of such slabs is quite high. The manufacturing technology is extremely simple:

• Sawdust, lime and cement are mixed in a ratio of 9:1:1;
• This whole mass is well moistened, after which it is poured into pre-prepared molds and lightly compacted;
• At room temperature, after a week the slabs will dry and be ready for use.

New technologies to help you

Of the most common newfangled insulation materials today, there are 3 main contenders:

• Polyurethane foam is a new and rather expensive material. According to its characteristics, it is somewhat reminiscent of extruded polystyrene foam. This material is not afraid of moisture and is considered quite durable. Manufacturers provide a 50-year warranty.
  But polyurethane foam, like extruded polystyrene foam, is a waterproofing agent and, taking into account the fact that it is applied in a continuous layer, for wooden ceiling it doesn't fit well;

• Penoizol, which is widely advertised today, is also a new development, but behind the tricky name lies ordinary polystyrene foam, only in a liquid state. In addition to the advantages of polystyrene foam already listed above, penoizol is applied in a continuous layer without gaps, which means that it is also advisable to use this material only for insulating concrete floors;

• In our case, the most suitable option is ecowool. It is made on the basis of natural cellulose with the addition of a binder, fire retardants and an antiseptic. Ecowool is of course afraid of water, but its level of water absorption is much lower than that of mineral wool. While their vapor permeability and thermal conductivity are approximately at the same level.

All of the above foam insulation can only be applied using expensive compressor equipment and trained people. To some extent, the only exception is ecowool; you can fill it with your own hands in a dry state in an uninsulated attic. When it comes to spraying from the inside, ecowool also needs a compressor.

The main stages of installation of ceiling insulation

As I mentioned above, the ceiling can be insulated from the inside or outside. Accordingly, the technologies will be different.

I don’t see the point in talking about how to spray insulating foam, because you won’t be buying a compressor anyway. This is a professional technique and it costs exorbitant money. Therefore, we will focus on the three main methods that are available for self-arrangement.

Method No. 1. Insulation with foam plastic

• Insulating the ceiling from the inside with polystyrene foam is not a difficult task. Concrete floor slabs, for which it is most often used, are mostly flat, so there are often no problems with leveling the plane, except that the seams between these slabs will need to be puttied or, better yet, foamed with foam, it’s faster;

• The next stage of our work will be double coating of the ceiling with deep penetration soil. Even a child can handle this kind of work, but I don’t recommend skipping this stage, the adhesion of smooth concrete is low and there’s no way to do it without primer;
• Now we take pre-prepared sheets, coat them with glue and glue them to the ceiling. Some advise applying the sheets to each other as tightly as possible, without gaps.

But I act differently. No matter how hard you try, the gaps will remain in any case, so it is better to immediately glue the sheets with a gap of 5 - 7 mm. After the glue sets, I fill these gaps with foam. This way I get a really continuous coating;

I would also like to say something about adhesives. There is enough of this product in the markets. But masters for the most part use three options:

1. Liquid Nails glue is good, but after application it needs to be applied to the surface, then immediately torn off and waited for 5 - 7 minutes for it to air out. And only then will he take it securely;
2. Conventional polyurethane foam has proven itself well in this regard. Lay out a foam “pattern” on the sheet and apply the foam to the ceiling. Only here you will have to press the sheet several times over the course of an hour, because the foam expands and until this process ends, the sheet will gradually move away;
3. For myself, I chose the dry construction mixture Ceresit CT83. I simply spread it according to the instructions, applied it to the sheet with a notched spatula and glued it on. If you don’t have a notched trowel at hand, that’s not a problem, you need to put a few “buns” at several points and glue them.

• But you can’t leave foam plastic like that, firstly, it’s flammable, and secondly, it’s just ugly. The ceiling will need to be plastered. To do this, I apply a 3-4 mm layer of Ceresit CT83 to the ceiling with a spatula and immediately embed serpyanka (reinforcing fiberglass mesh) into it;

• Next we need to play it safe. High-quality glue is good, but the foam plastic must be additionally fixed to the ceiling with umbrella dowels.
  You can’t do without a hammer drill here. Drill a hole through the foam in the concrete, insert a plastic dowel into it and hammer in the central rod. Consumption - about 5 dowels per 1 m²;
• When all this has dried, you can apply a layer of decorative finishing plaster. If you don’t want to buy Ceresit CT83, take any starter plaster, only in this case the foam will need to be primed first.

If you decide to insulate the ceiling with foam plastic in wooden house, then the material should be laid between the load-bearing beams to their entire depth, and the gaps should be foamed. You will have a ceiling lined underneath, and it is advisable to put a subfloor on top, because you need to somehow move around the attic. In this case, no vapor barrier is needed; polystyrene foam is not afraid of moisture.

Method No. 2. Installation of mineral wool from the inside

Now let's talk about how to insulate a ceiling with mineral wool. The inside of a mineral wool ceiling can be insulated in two ways.

I actually already told you about the first one. The fact is that dense slabs of mineral wool are glued and plastered on the ceiling in the same way as polystyrene foam. There's nothing to add here, except that you can't do without a notched trowel.

The second, no less common method is internal installation under a suspended sheathing. This type of lathing can be installed on both wooden and concrete ceilings.

The frame of such a sheathing can be assembled from wooden blocks or from UD and CD profiles. My advice to you is to learn from metal profiles right away, they are not affected by temperature changes, and most importantly, this skill may be useful to you more than once.

• First you will need to cut a horizontal line around the perimeter of the room, at the level of the future ceiling. The easiest way to do this is with a laser level, but if you don’t have one nearby, use a hydro level (a long soft tube with graduated tips, working on the principle of communicating vessels);
• Further, according to this marking, on two more long walls, two UD profiles are mounted;
• Now, perpendicular to these profiles on the ceiling, you need to mark where the CD profiles will go. Usually a step of about half a meter is taken;

• According to this marking, we fasten the perforated hangers with dowels at intervals of a meter and immediately bend the wings of these hangers downwards;
• After this, you can glue cotton slabs to the ceiling. Under the wings of the hangers, the slabs are simply cut with a knife;
• Next, we insert CD profiles into the UD profiles and fix them with self-tapping screws to each other and to the hangers. In principle, that’s all, now you can hem it or whatever you like.

Method No. 3. Insulating the ceiling from above

This is the simplest option. If you are dealing with a concrete floor slab or the support beams of a wooden ceiling are already covered and you do not want to touch them, then you will need to lay sheathing in the attic.

Wooden beams with a thickness of 50 mm or more are usually used as lathing. The beam tire, which will also be the depth of the sheathing, is calculated according to the principle: thickness of future insulation, plus 30 mm for ventilation gap.

Now the entire attic space is covered with a vapor barrier over the sheathing. Do not forget that the vapor barrier membrane allows steam to pass in only one direction and the steam should move upward. Such membranes always have marks indicating which side is vapor-permeable. The membrane is fixed to the sheathing with a furniture stapler.

Now you can lay or fill the insulation itself. With bulk materials, everything seems to be clear, pour it out, level it and it’s ready. Here it is worth mentioning how to lay slab insulation, for example, the same mineral wool.

In order for cotton mats or slabs to fit tightly between the wooden guides, they must be 20 - 30 mm wider than the gap. And so that there are no cold bridges at the joints of these plates. The material is usually laid in 2 layers.

In the case of wool, slabs 100 mm thick are usually taken and first laid in one layer. Next, the same layer is laid on it, but the joints of the lower and upper layers should not coincide with each other. This way you will get monolithic insulation. The final touch to this design will be the rough flooring on top of the sheathing.

Conclusion

Of course, it’s up to you to decide which insulation is best to use. For my part, I tried to talk about the most simple ways, in my opinion, accessible even to an amateur.

September 6, 2016

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The question of what is the best way to insulate the ceiling of a house arises during its construction, when we have already insulated the walls and floors, insulated plastic windows, insulation of the loggia and extensions to the house (garage, utility rooms). It is also relevant when updating the ceiling insulation system of old houses.

At the beginning of the article, let us immediately recall the primitive, but long-used methods and techniques for insulating the ceilings of private residential buildings.

Photo - we insulate the ceiling from inside the house with our own hands

Thermal insulation using a layer of sawdust is still found in the attics of old private houses. Previously, widely used:

• hay;
• onion scales;
• seed husks, scattering them over the entire area of ​​the attic floor;
• the attic floor could have been previously covered with clay.

What not ready system insulation with non-high-tech materials?

Until recently, such thermal insulation systems in private homes were periodically damaged by rodents. Later they began to use slag, bulk waste from various industries.

Significant heat losses through the upper surfaces of the house are explained by the laws of physics. After all, warm air rises in them (the law of conversion). That's where the big things happen. heat losses, if the ceiling is poorly insulated. To maintain heat in a private home, it is necessary to reduce the thermal conductivity of the ceiling and roof.

Advice! It is better to insulate the ceiling of a private house from the outside. It’s easier to install, and most importantly we remove the dew point from the surfaces of the living room (the further the vapor barrier is from the surfaces of the living room, the better).

We reduce the thermal conductivity of the ceiling by insulating it with various thermal insulation materials.

Which insulation is best for these purposes? Here the answer lies only in the desire and capabilities of the owners of the house. In how correctly and competently from those offered on the market thermal insulation materials install a ceiling insulation system.

Insulation materials used to insulate the ceiling from the outside

Types of insulation used for thermal insulation:

• Expanded clay;
• Mineral wool;
• Ecowool (cellulose insulation);

• Foam plastic (penoizol);
• Polyurethane (polyurethane foam).

Requirements for ceiling insulation of a private house

Before you finally decide on the best way to insulate the ceiling of a house, you need to take into account some requirements for the ceiling insulation system of a residential building:

1. The insulation in this system must be environmentally friendly and harmless to residents. This requirement is extremely important, taking into account the effect on the ceiling insulation system of warm air from the heated living space.
2. Thermal insulation should not support combustion.
3. The insulation system itself should not be very heavy.
4. Low ability to accumulate (absorb) and store moisture. This requirement is especially relevant when the attic roof of a private house is not insulated (for example, metal roofing material laid directly on the boards).

Options for insulating the ceiling of a private house

We offer a very easy-to-install, light-weight, do-it-yourself method of thermal insulation that best meets the above requirements. An important advantage of this option for insulating the ceiling from the outside is the price. The main thing is that this system insulation successfully passed the test.

Materials used for budget insulation of the ceiling of a private house from the outside:

• Polypropylene film (we use “Izospan B” - 1.4 m or 1.6 m wide).
• To make it easier to mount the film and hold it in place, use connecting tapes (“Izospan SL” or “Izospan KL”), and adhesive tape (“Izospan ML proff”) to securely attach the film to the ceiling surfaces.
• Expanded clay (or mineral wool).
• Wooden blocks for installing joists, horizontal bars for flooring.
• Screws (self-tapping screws) for attaching joists to rafters and attic floor beams
• Sheathing flooring material(for attics) or glassine roofing P - 350 (for non-residential “cold” attics).

Installation instructions:

• We measure the area of ​​the attic floor to determine the quantity required material(films, bulk insulation).

• Based on the size of the ceiling and the thickness of the expanded clay layer being poured, we prepare the required number of wooden blocks (with a cross-section of more than 50 x 50 mm) for the logs. We treat them with antiseptics.
• We remove and clean surfaces from debris and dirt.
• We lay the joists. The distance between the bars is 40 cm (we fasten the outer bars, retreating from the side floor beams - 30 - 35 mm). We sew the ends of the bars to the side bars of the attic with screws, preferably with incomplete threads (with a diameter of at least 6 mm). At the points of contact of the structure wooden frame with the ceiling of the attic we lay pieces of glassine P - 350.

• We lay out “Izospan B” between the installed joists. At the junction points, we lay the film overlapping (15 - 20 cm).
• We fasten the film together with connecting tape “Izospan KL” or “Izospan SL”.
• Where necessary, for better adhesion of the film to the joists and the ceiling surface, we use Izospan ML proff adhesive tape. This tape allows you to sew the film to any material (concrete, wood) of the ceiling.

• Use scissors or a cutter to cut the film. We overlap the wooden logs (3 - 5 cm is enough). We cut off the excess film.
• Using a construction stapler (gun) we sew “Izospan B” to the side surfaces wooden logs in increments of 20 - 25 cm.
• We fill expanded clay between the joists.
• Using a shovel, a rule and a wide plaster spatula, distribute the expanded clay evenly and evenly.

• We cover the resulting thermal insulation layer of expanded clay. In the attic, residential attic space, we do this by anyone floor covering(tongue or deck boards, chipboards). In a cold, uninhabited attic, we lay glassine P-350 on top of the heat-insulating layer (we put board paths on top of the glassine for ease of movement around the attic when visiting it).

Advice! Instead of expanded clay, you can also use mineral wool slabs. But, it is advisable to install mineral wool with an insulated attic roof.

Expanded clay or mineral wool

What insulation is better for the ceiling? What is better to use as low-budget insulation - expanded clay or mineral wool? After all, both materials are sufficiently breathable and fire resistant.

It all depends on the installation location, the ease of delivery of the insulation material to the installation site of the insulation system, the nature and completeness of the climatic influence on the insulation. If we consider the question of how best to insulate the ceiling of a private house, then it is still better to choose expanded clay.

The following factors speak in favor of expanded clay:

• he is not afraid of water;
• its environmental component, it will be harmless to residents (it contains no synthetics).

The advantages of mineral wool are also obvious:

• easily delivered to the place of insulation work;
• it is quite environmentally friendly (but the performance is worse than that of expanded clay);
• It is also durable and fire resistant.

But mineral wool, unlike expanded clay, has a reduced moisture resistance indicator.

Of course, this indicator of mineral wool can be increased using special impregnations. But this only increases the volume and complexity preparatory work, to insulate the ceiling.

The choice is not critical, especially since the mineral wool in the attic will be protected from the direct influence of moisture by the roof and flooring. But, taking into account the environmental friendliness and ability to absorb moisture, it is better to choose mineral wool. The final decision rests with the residents of a private house.

An effective solution is to replace expanded clay and mineral wool with foam glass chips. This bulk thermal insulation material:

• does not burn at all;
• environmentally friendly (when heated, it does not emit harmful substances);
• not subject to rotting;
• durable;
• retains its volume;
• frost-resistant;
• in their own way thermophysical properties superior to expanded clay and mineral wool.

Now there are other high-tech opportunities to insulate surfaces, including floors in a modern way. This is the application of penoizol and polyurethane foam to these surfaces.

Some, despite the fact that this is a very expensive undertaking (you need to hire a team with the delivery of special equipment), private sector residents use penoizol, polyurethane foam to insulate the ceiling outside in the attic. They are attracted by the speed of thermal insulation work, its undeniable reliability, durability, and advertising by manufacturers of these types of insulation.

Important! I do not recommend using penoizol and penopropylene by directly spraying and applying it to the surface of the ceiling of the house from the outside.

Two arguments suggest themselves here:

1. If the attic is cold, it is not habitable. Such a tight, seamless connection of insulation on the outside of the ceiling of a private house is not very good for removing the dew point from the surface of the living space under the attic. Although many argue with this, citing the high thermal insulation rates of the hardened crust made from these foam insulation materials.
2. If the attic is residential (attic), then the issue of ecology arises. Although manufacturers say that information about any harm to humans from their thermal insulation products is groundless and empty, private home owners should look into this issue more carefully. Moreover, such a thermal insulation layer will constantly heat up warm air from the rooms below, and in the attic with additional heating equipment.

But it’s up to the residents of a private house to decide for themselves. Linoleum, if it is not natural, is also harmful to a certain extent. But we find linoleum in almost every apartment and office.

Any owner strives to create a comfortable stay in his home. To do this, periodically monitors possible heat losses, due to which room temperature may decrease and energy use increase. Window and doorways are the main conductors of cold air.

As a rule, they are the first to be replaced by home owners with quality products. Many rushed to insulate the walls and foundation. But for some reason people don’t always remember about the ceiling. And in vain! According to the laws of physics, heat loss due to poor-quality ceilings can be over 20 percent. The barrier created at the top will prevent heat from escaping, and heating devices there is no need to heat the environment.

Methods for insulating the ceiling in a private house include both interior work and in the attic. These works to strengthen the energy protection of the house are equivalent, so each owner can choose a convenient option for themselves.

The difference between the methods lies in the installation technology and materials used:

• Insulation of the ceiling from the inside is accompanied by subsequent finishing of the surface with plasterboard or other suspended structures. It should be noted that the height of the room after installation will decrease from 10 to 25 cm. The material used must have vapor-permeable properties. These can be: mineral or basalt wool, penofol.
• External ceiling insulation is performed in the attic. A more economical and profitable option, as it does not require further finishing works, if the use of the attic space is not provided. It is recommended to use a vapor-tight material to prevent moisture from entering the ceiling. The most commonly used are: polystyrene foam, penoizol, mineral wool, expanded clay.

Choice of insulation

The modern construction market offers a huge amount of materials for ceiling insulation. Even expanded clay, sawdust, hay, clay and slag are used, which have a number of advantages significant shortcomings. The choice must meet the technology requirements.

Basic requirements that insulation must meet:

• do not release toxic substances;
• be resistant to moisture;
• have a low degree of flammability.

Popular materials for energy saving work at home

Mineral wool in the form of sheets or rolls is widely used in construction work. The characteristics of the insulation meet technical requirements thermal insulation. Use in residential premises is dictated by the absence of toxic substances in the composition and excellent thermal insulation properties. Mineral wool has components of limestone, basalt, diabase and dolomite.

Rocks endow the material with valuable qualities:

• low degree of thermal conductivity;
• resistance to temperature changes;
• lack of flammability;
• environmental characteristics.

Still, the material has disadvantages:

• ability to absorb moisture;
• When installing, be sure to use a waterproofing film;
• additionally treat the joint seams with polyurethane foam for better sealing;
• to attach the insulation, a lath is made of wooden beam or profiles;
• relatively short service life (10-15 years).

Penofol consists of layers of foamed polyethylene and aluminum foil. Combines the properties of several insulating materials with a fairly wide range of applications. It represents the basis for innovative finishing of balconies and loggias.

It has low thermal conductivity, which will save energy resources. Protective qualities will prevent the penetration of cold air, draft and radon into the room. In summer, penofol will help keep the house cool and create a comfortable microclimate.

The light weight of the material makes installation convenient, and the structure of the building does not become heavier. To work with penofol, you will need a minimum amount of available tools: a construction knife, tape and liquid nails.

Along with the advantages, there are also disadvantages:

• a flexible surface involves finishing the ceiling with a suspended structure with a frame;
• It is problematic to attach the material to some surfaces;
• To increase thermal protection, it is recommended to use mineral wool.

Expanded polystyrene is better known to many as polystyrene foam. The material, easy to use, creates strong heat protection in the room without harming the health of household members. At correct execution installation fully justifies the costs and retains its quality for a long time.

The advantages are:

• moisture resistance;
• good thermal conductivity;
• light weight, eliminating structural reinforcement;
• easy installation.

Disadvantages include:

• easy flammability;
• instability to influence ultraviolet rays and solvents;
• low resistance to mechanical damage.

Penoizol is a liquid foam plastic. To insulate the ceiling from the outside, it is necessary to use special equipment to apply a binder to the surface.

Advantages of the material:

• affordable price;
• thermal insulation qualities;
• flammability resistance;
• Easily fills hard-to-reach places;
• safe operation.

Flaws:

• the lack of special equipment precludes independent installation;
• weak resistance to mechanical stress;
• the first 2-3 weeks after installation, a small amount of toxic substance evaporates;
• ability to absorb moisture.

Do-it-yourself insulation

If you stick to technological process and do right choice material, installation is quite possible to do independently.

Insulating the ceiling indoors using mineral wool

To complete the work you will need the following materials:

• mineral wool;
• metal profiles or wooden blocks 150x30 mm;
• hardware;
• vapor barrier film;
• staples;
• polyurethane foam;
• dowels with a wide head;
• drywall.

Set of tools:

• perforator;
• roulette;
• hammer;
• screwdriver;
• scissors;
• construction knife.

Installation stages

• Make a sheathing of wooden blocks on the ceiling or metal profile in increments of 50 cm.
• Cut the insulation to the size of the sheathing cells with an increase of 2 cm on the sides.
• Place mineral wool in cells without compacting it.
• Treat the joints of the insulation with polyurethane foam for sealing. The foam will also serve as resistance to shrinkage of the insulation.
• Cover the surface with a vapor barrier film. The joints of the material should overlap by 10 cm. Using staples, secure the film to the sheathing.
• Using plasterboard sheets finish the ceiling.

Insulating the ceiling in the attic using polystyrene foam

Materials required for installation:

• foam sheets 40 mm thick;
• polyurethane foam;
• OSB sheets 15-18 mm;
• hardware.

Tools:

• drill;
• hacksaw;
• hammer;
• bench knife;
• screwdriver

Installation stages

• Clear the attic floor of debris. If there are damaged areas or holes, seal them with cement or gypsum mixture.
• Place the foam on the surface, butting it tightly together.
• Treat the connecting seams with polyurethane foam.
• Cover the top with OSB sheets (15-18 mm) or boards.

If you plan to use attic space as an attic, the insulated surface must be filled cement screed, thickness of at least 5 cm. The use of reinforcing mesh is mandatory.

• Insulation in the attic using polystyrene foam sheets must be supplemented with finishing in the form of screed or wooden planks. Unprotected foam is susceptible to mechanical damage, which will affect its functionality.
• Thermal insulation from the outside is easier and more economical.
• Mineral wool must not be compressed. By losing its structure, it loses its valuable properties.
• Built-in lamps in an insulated ceiling should be mounted with a barrier from the material using plasterboard inserts at a distance of 2-3 cm.
• To increase thermal protection, you can lay the attic in a comprehensive manner: polystyrene foam and mineral wool. The insulation layers should resemble brickwork.
• For vapor barrier, use marked film. The use of ordinary polyethylene is not allowed.
• When using penofol for insulation in the attic, install with the foil facing down.