A fireplace is considered an element of luxury and a sign of wealth. Until recently, few could afford such a delicacy. Today, a source of living heat is increasingly installed in small country houses. Often home craftsmen build fireplaces with their own hands. An additional “heater” is included in the design of the house; they try to provide it to already used dwellings during renovations. After all, a fireplace is not just open hearth in the living room or dining room. This is an incredibly atmospheric building, the kind spirit of a truly warm and cozy home.

What kind of fireplace can there be in the house and on the property?

Owners of estates often face a difficult dilemma: build a fireplace and barbecue with their own hands or purchase ready-made products. Manufacturers offer a wide range of comfort attributes for a private home, which just need to be installed and the chimney installed. They are good for everyone, except for one thing - such a fireplace does not carry the additional warmth of human hands.

In addition, a persistent thought will live in the subconscious that someone else has a twin brother of the giver of divine heat. In addition, you always want to arrange a house to your liking, and standardized, mass-produced designs are not the best components of a designer interior.

Even the simplest fireplace invariably decorates the room

It is much more pleasant to make a fireplace with your own hands, to go through in practice all the stages of creating a small miracle - a fire source in the middle of the living room or in the corner of the bedroom. Moreover, placement depends on only two factors - the area of ​​the house and the preferences of the owners. There are three types of fireplaces:

• wall-mounted – a universal type, possible for implementation on the basis of a finished room, because for its construction and installation of the combustion part, an additional wall is erected;
• island - a free-standing “small architectural form”, most often placed in the center of a room of significant area;
• built-in – the firebox is built into the wall, which requires installation at the stage of design and construction of the house.

An important component of any open hearth is the portal. It’s worth putting some effort into its design – your living room will be transformed, and while basking near the fire, you will receive physical and aesthetic pleasure. However, when building a fireplace with your own hands, it would not be a bad idea to thoroughly study the order - the masonry scheme, which cannot be avoided, especially for a novice stove maker.

IMPORTANT TO KNOW: A fireplace can be used to heat your home and cook food over a fire.

Fireplace, as part design project on home decoration - a stylish accent in the interior and an additional source of heat

What you need to know about laying fireplaces with your own hands

One of the main issues that stove makers carefully consider is achieving highest efficiency. Heat losses when heating a fireplace will be quite high if appropriate measures are not taken. Of course, if you decide to build a simple garden barbecue fireplace with your own hands, the issue of heat preservation is not very relevant for you. The main thing is not to violate the masonry technology and remove the chimney correctly.

But when heating a house, efficiency is a key factor. The easiest way to increase the rate is to choose a fireplace closed type. This means that the combustion part is closed with a special door that prevents cold air from entering the firebox.

The material for the door is most often transparent fire-resistant glass. Nothing prevents you from admiring the fire, but the precious heat does not evaporate, the portal stone and the chimney well warm up thoroughly and give off heat for some time after the fire has died out.

A simple way to increase the efficiency of a fireplace: fire behind glass - warmth in the house

If you decide to build a fireplace with your own hands, you should consider the location of the hearth. Experts identify the following zones for the location of the structure:

• built into the wall;
• near the wall;
• angular;
• built into the partition;
• fireplace partition;
• installed separately (island).

Depending on the location, another important parameter is determined - the number of radiating surfaces. In other words, how many sides of the fireplace will be open. The lowest heat losses are observed in structures with one radiating surface. The largest ones are with three. The last type is considered the most aesthetically attractive - the flame can be admired from three sides at once.

You should also pay attention to the method of heat supply. In order to enhance radiation, the rear and side walls are made of of stainless steel and placed at an angle - this is one of the methods for increasing efficiency. In addition, the installation of an air circulation system in the side walls of the fireplace has proven its effectiveness.

IMPORTANT TO KNOW: Installing a fireplace with your own hands requires following fire safety standards.

A candle fireplace is a solution for those who want to create a special atmosphere in a house or apartment that is not intended for installation of an open fire source

How to choose the optimal type of fireplace

For many centuries, an open hearth bordered by a portal was, first of all, a means of heating the house. In large estates, castles or palaces, there were sometimes dozens or hundreds of fireplaces, each with different functions. This division is still relevant today:

• heating the house;
• heating of water (including the possibility of turning on the supplied communications in common system heating the house);
• cooking (barbecue, grill);
• universal fireplace stove (works in two “modes” - heating and has a hob).

In recent years, practical functions have lost their primary importance, and issues of designing the fireplace and the space around it have come to the fore. Craftsmen pay special attention to the proper design of the firebox and carefully check how the chimney for the fireplace is made - without good draft it is impossible to effectively heat the room and avoid smoke during the process of heating the fireplace.

IMPORTANT TO KNOW: When installing a fireplace in an already used house, you will have to dismantle part of the floors and ceiling in order to install a foundation and chimney.

Marble portal is a luxury worthy of attention

What to consider when designing a fireplace

Fireplaces whose portal is made of natural stone. This noble material invariably attracts attention and evokes associations with bygone eras. Marble is the most highly prized. The unique outlines of natural patterns ennoble any interior, even if the design of the fireplace portal is the simplest and without any frills.

The following materials are much more accessible:

• brick;
• tree;
• sandstone;
• limestone.

When drawing up a fireplace diagram with your own hands, be sure to take into account the design method. The fire-fighting properties of the fireplace depend on this. If a brick is able to withstand flames, then wood burns out quickly, and the risk of fire if safety rules are violated is high.

Moreover, each of the materials allows for the implementation of different stylistic decisions– from classical motifs to country music. Admirers of Art Nouveau choose cast iron - it is optimal for decorating a portal in modern style.

A special place is given to tiles - a unique finishing material that is durable, strong and has excellent heat transfer. Ceramic tiles were most common in the Netherlands, which is why tiled portals are often called Dutch.

IMPORTANT TO KNOW: A candle fireplace, simulating a live flame in a firebox, can be placed in an ordinary city apartment.

Is it worth it to start making fireplaces with your own hands?

There are three main components in the design of a fireplace:

• firebox;
• chimney;
• portal.

If the structure weighs significantly (over 700 kg), a separate foundation must be provided on which the fireplace rests. Schematically, the design of the fireplace looks quite simple. In fact, you will have to take into account a lot of features and subtleties associated with the arrangement of the firebox, portal, and side wells.

Dutch fireplace - a solution for discerning connoisseurs home warmth and comfort

The key element is the chimney. Comfortable operation of the fireplace depends on its design, draft, and free passage of smoke through the well. Therefore, it is best to entrust the manufacture of fireplaces to experienced professionals who thoroughly master this difficult craft. The desire to learn how to perform the most complex stove work is commendable, but is the savings on the design and construction of a fireplace worth the wasted nerves, mistakes, and endless rework?

A garden fireplace is an ideal place for intimate gatherings with friends.

In addition, not everyone will be able to assemble the structure and design the portal properly on their own. But by and large, creating a hearth full of live fire is a dream come true. The fulfillment of a cherished desire should not be overshadowed by annoying shortcomings. It doesn’t matter what idea you have - to build a simple garden fireplace with your own hands or to place an exclusive interior element in the center of the living room. It is important that all stages of the project take place under the supervision of experienced craftsmen. Then your home will be filled with living warmth, and the dishes cooked on the grill will give you the pleasure of tasting perfection.

Video: masonry and arrangement of the fireplace

A real fireplace in your home is the dream of almost every person. But many people mistakenly believe that equipping it in own home, is financially unfeasible.

Indeed, to build the smallest, simplest fireplace, you will have to pay the stove maker, for just one job about 100,000 rubles at prices 5 years ago. Believe me, whoever says that he will take it cheaper is most likely screwing up the traction or level, at least that’s what happens most often. But don’t rush to get upset, in fact, every person can quite realistically lay out a fireplace with their own hands, and the money that craftsmen take is rather determined by the fashion and prestige of these buildings.

Before I start laying out the arrangements, I would like to tell you what the structure of such a hearth is and what are the features of its masonry.

What is a fireplace and can it be used for heating?

A fireplace is an open or closed type hearth. It is not a heating device, so if you decide to save on gas consumption, install a stove or solid fuel boiler.

A fireplace consists of a foundation separate from the base of the house, a wide portal, sometimes a blower (but not necessarily), a vertical attic chimney and a chimney extending above the roof of the building.

What allows a furnace to heat a house? The design includes a knee chimney with many bends and a small firebox. Roughly speaking, hot gases, entering the pipe, begin to move along it, heating the walls of the furnace, which, in turn, release heat into the house until the fire goes out, the coals burn out and the brick cools down.

Features of the fireplace design, in particular, a wide firebox and a straight chimney (one bend is allowed, but not more than 30 degrees), in themselves indicate the absence of structural knee cavities that allow hot gases to circulate inside the fireplace.

That is, from the outside, its walls remain completely cold and the room is not heated at all. Here, of course, one could say that a burning fire can warm the room, at least a little, but in fact, almost all the hot air flies into the chimney. You cannot close the valve until the coals have completely burned out - the room will fill with carbon monoxide.

Some people draw elaborate plans that include a water heat exchanger, but please, forget about this method of increasing the utility of the fireplace. Firstly, the water will only heat up while the wood is burning, and secondly, the costs of installation, maintenance and waste of useful square footage for the sake of 10, maximum 15% efficiency from such a device are simply impractical.

But besides aesthetic value, are there any benefits to having a fireplace? Without a doubt. The fireplace is an excellent air circulator. When the damper is open, this is an ideal way to ventilate a room without a draft, and also, it reduces the humidity in the room when it is in excess and, on the contrary, moisturizes when the air is dry.

Types of fireplaces

Fireplaces according to their location can be:

• Corner
• Wall-mounted
• Central

By firebox type:

• Open
• Closed

By device:

• Hanging
• Floor-standing
• Two-tier

By design features:

• Individual, that is, just classic fireplaces
• Fireplace stoves are a design that combines a stove and a fireplace in one, but, nevertheless, the fireboxes are located on different sides, and each of them has its own chimney.

Fireplace in the apartment

No regulatory documents, according to which, it would be necessary to obtain permission to build a fireplace in the house. However, in an apartment, this is actually an impossible dream. It is necessary to obtain a bunch of permits, go through “a million” authorities - from the Criminal Code to the fire service, and in addition, you need to live on the top floor in order to remove the chimney and calculate the load on the floors so that it does not exceed 150 kg/sq.m. m. In this case, it is better to limit yourself to an artificial fireplace - electric.

What to make a fireplace from

A real hearth can be created from:

• Brick - stove red or fireproof
• Concrete (formwork method)
• Heat-resistant stone, usually rubble
• Metal. But, as a rule, these are purchased designs

The cheapest and simplest material is red stove brick. Now I will tell you how you can save on purchasing materials.

Modern stove bricks are not very durable, although they are used; personally, I prefer the old heel bricks. It is virtually impossible to buy it on the regular construction market, but it is quite possible to purchase it at a very low cost.

In any village there are stoves that sooner or later collapse or are specially replaced gas heating. And many old houses made from this brick are also falling apart. Previously, and mostly now, stoves and houses were laid on clay. So, if you have the opportunity, buy it, or they will even give it to you for free, a used brick.

It will need to be cleaned as much as possible of the mortar; a brick heavily stained with soot, of course, is better not to take it.

When selecting, choose whole or half material, the main thing is that they do not crumble and do not have significant cracks. That's what you'll need, about 600 in total, no more, or even less (depending on the design).

You will also need fittings, which cost a lot of money in the store. Again, if your budget is limited, run to your local scrap metal collection point and buy there for the price of ferrous metal.

There is also plenty of clay in the villages; now drainage pits and deep foundations are very common, after digging which a lot of clay remains. You need clay without impurities; try to choose it without stones and earth.

That's all. All you have to do is buy a few corners, cement and sand for the foundation, a valve and a grate. At the maximum, material purchased in this way will cost you 10 thousand, no more. Otherwise, most of it will be free.

Of course, this only applies to fireplaces made of red kiln brick- the rest will cost much more.

Now let's see what you need to prepare from the tools:

• Bath for soaking bricks
• A tray or bucket for soaking clay
• Bucket for c/p solution
• Kelma
• Level
• Bulgarian
• Hammer
• Roulette

Foundation

So, you have prepared everything you need to build a fireplace, now let’s look at the features of its masonry.

First of all, it is necessary to equip the foundation. Its depth should be about 1-1.5 meters. The foundation walls should be 10 centimeters away from the base of the house. Do not tie them together under any circumstances. As they shrink, they will pull each other.

The foundation can be:

• Solid cast formwork
• Brick
• Formwork backfill

When the foundation is ready, a layer of roofing material is laid on top of it and a thin clay-sand screed is poured. The base of the foundation under the firebox should extend 30 cm from the fireplace itself.

Solution

Now let's talk about the solution.

For laying chimney pipes and foundations, the following can be used:

• Lime-sand mortar in a ratio of 1/2 or 1/3 (slaked lime)
• Cement-sand, in a ratio of 1/3 or 1/6, it depends on the brand of cement.

To lay out the “body” of the fireplace, use a clay-sand mortar (1/1, 1/2). In this case, the clay is pre-soaked and mixed very well; there should be no impurities, lumps, and so on. To prevent your fireplace from bursting at the seam, check the quality of the mortar. It should be uniform in consistency and slide smoothly from the trowel. If you roll it into a ball with a diameter of 5 cm, dry it and throw it from a height of a meter, it should not crumble. This solution is quite suitable for masonry.

The brick must also be pre-soaked if you are using red brick, sometimes for knocking, but in general, until the bubbles that float to the surface of the water disappear.

Chimney

The chimney pipe must exit freely. Please note that trees or something similar hanging over it will interfere with traction.

The pipe must be higher than the roof level, and its cross-section is at least 1:10 from the firebox, and it is better to make it 1:15 (14x27 cm).

Mainly, if its shape is round or square, rectangular is the least preferable.

Be sure to include a heading. It will protect the inside of the pipe from debris.

The material for the pipe is usually brick, but if you choose asbestos cement, its outer diameter must be at least 25 cm.

You can get the order of the fireplace from a trusted resource, or I will post my working diagrams for you as time goes on. The main thing is to follow it and then you will not have problems with traction and destruction.

Even if you are an experienced masonry worker, don't expect to lay out your fireplace in one day. You can put no more than 5 rows per day, otherwise they will crawl and blur.

The seams should be no more than 5 mm, try to keep them uniform, use a level.

To practice and see what the design will look like in the end, you can take a LEGO construction set with large parts; in fact, every child - his or her nephew, or maybe just someone you know has a baby - has such a toy. It should have solid parts, halves, and quarters, so you won’t have any problems assembling the order.

Traction

Fireplace draft is the main headache of every owner. To make it good:

Clean the pipe, firebox, and vent in a timely manner

Burn only dry wood, wood chips, and do not burn garbage, chipboard, etc. in the fireplace.

If condensation accumulates in the outlet pipe, insulate it or pre-melt the device with wood chips or paper, thus warming up the structure

Before lighting for the first time, wait until the fireplace is completely dry after laying.
Make sure that during the installation process there are no growths or pieces of mortar or protruding bricks on the chimney
Strictly follow the order of the fireplace and recommendations for arranging the chimney

What to veneer with

I like a fireplace without external cladding, but often people try to cover it with something. Remember - the outer walls do not heat up, which means you can use any material, the main thing is that nothing flammable is screwed around the firebox and the firebox itself should not be lined from the inside.

The most popular finishing materials for fireplaces:

• Stone
• Drywall
• Regular tiles and tiles

If under construction or already built Vacation home, then you can always find a place for a fireplace in it, especially since many people dream about it. Excessively massive fireplaces are not easy to place in a small room, and in addition, they have a complex internal structure, inaccessible to a beginner in the furnace business self-construction. Another thing is the corner fireplace. We can say that this option is suitable even for the smallest room, since it occupies a “modest” part of the usable space, but is able to fully bring maximum comfort to the house and create a special style.

In addition, a do-it-yourself corner fireplace with step-by-step instructions for constructing it is necessary for self-construction, even a novice stove maker can try to fold it.

Advantages of a corner fireplace

There are corner fireplaces of various models. Some of them are made only from brick, while others are combined from metal elements and brickwork. Which one is better to choose will depend on the preferences of the homeowner and his financial capabilities. It should be noted that a combined fireplace will cost slightly less than one in the construction of which only brick was used.

It is worth evaluating the advantages of a corner fireplace in order to understand how profitable it is to install it in certain conditions:

• The first is saving money on material for construction, since much less of it will be required than for the construction of a wall-mounted or island fireplace.
• The second is the rational use of space, since the compactness of the structure allows it to be installed in a small country house, and in a cottage with enough large area.
• Third, this is a relatively simple ordering scheme that even a novice master can understand. Even if the external masonry is not entirely successful, it can be covered with a finishing material, such as decorative plaster, ceramic or a finished stone portal. Moreover, some options for applying plaster can be made in the form of complex exclusive relief patterns.
• And finally, the aesthetic and functional value of the building. A fireplace will make the room cozy, which will allow you to spend rainy days and evenings near it in comfort.

Fireplace project

Preliminary sketches

In order for the process of erecting a corner fireplace in the room to be successful, it is necessary first of all to make a detailed project and sketch of the future heating structure. It is better, of course, to lay the foundation of the fireplace together with the foundation of the house, but you need to remember that they should not be connected to each other.

You can fit a corner fireplace into one of the rooms of an already built house, but you will have to make careful calculations so that its chimney does not rest against the attic floor beam or rafter leg.

Design work is carried out as follows:

• First you need to determine the room and the corner in it where the fireplace will be installed.
• Next, on a sheet of paper you need to make a small sketch drawing, which will allow you to visually determine how “appropriate” the chosen option will be in this particular room and in its design style.
• After this, taking into account the design diagram of the attic floor and rafter system, a fireplace design drawing is created.

Corner fireplaces may differ from each other in some design elements. For example, in its lower part you can install a chamber for drying firewood, or a blower chamber equipped with a door or a metal drawer. Brick cabinets are sometimes placed on both sides of the fireplace insert, used as decorative shelves for installing fireplace accessories or floor vases.

The fireplace insert may have different shapes. It can be rectangular, square, trapezoidal or semicircular. Each developed model has its own version of the flask niche. When choosing a fireplace for yourself, you need to immediately pay attention to this element, since it will be difficult to redo it later.

In addition, a corner fireplace can have a firebox made of fireclay bricks or a finished metal firebox built into the structure. Such metal chambers are equipped with a door with heat-resistant glass, which allows you to enjoy the view of the fire and at the same time, does not let combustion products into the room. For those who love open fire and the aroma of burning wood, the door will not be an obstacle, since it can always be opened.

All the desired elements must be immediately included in the design and sketch of the fireplace, and then try to select an order based on it, developed by professional stove makers.

Calculations of linear parameters of the fireplace

In order for the fireplace to function normally and meet all safety criteria, you need to know what should be taken into account when making calculations:

For quality and safe work of any heating device it is necessary to create optimal draft - in order to eliminate smoke in the premises and, at the same time, to retain heat for the longest possible time. In addition, normal draft will help to quickly light the fireplace and maintain acceptable fire intensity. General design fireplace should combine:

• High heat transfer, fast and uniform heating of the structure.
• The fireplace should not cool down the house when not in use, that is, it is necessary to create conditions for blocking the chimney pipe.
• Aesthetic appearance and compactness.

It is these factors that are taken into account and calculated during the preparation of the project. They largely depend on the area that the fireplace must heat.

Fireplace insert

Choice correct size The firebox directly affects the heating of the room and the creation of a comfortable atmosphere.

The size of this element is calculated based on the area of ​​the room. To simplify this, the area is divided by 50 - the resulting value will show the approximate size of the firebox window. So, for a small room, a fireplace with a firebox opening with an area of ​​0.32 to 0.54 m² is sufficient.

You can use a table that will help you easily calculate this important parameter for good fireplace functionality:

Dimensions of various fireplace elements, mm	Room area, m².
	12	15	20	25	30	40
Portal width	400	500	600	700	800	900
Portal height	420	490	560	630	700	770
Firebox depth	300	320	350	380	400	420
Rear wall height	At least 360
Firebox rear wall width	300	400	450	500	600	700
Smoke collector height	570	600	630	660	700	800
Cross-section of a chimney with rough internal walls	140×270	140×270	270×270	270×270	270×400	270×400
Section of a chimney with smooth internal walls	140×140	140×270	140×270	270×270	270×270	270×270

The best proportions for a fireplace window are considered to be 3:2, and the height should be less than the width of the fireplace.

An equally important parameter is the depth of the combustion chamber - the efficiency of the fireplace will directly depend on it. According to standards, it should be equal to ⅔ or ½ of the height of the firebox.

If the specified parameters are ill-considered, for the sake of economy or appearance increase, then heat transfer is significantly reduced, since most of the heat will go directly into the pipe. All that remains is to admire the intense flame from the fire, barely having time to add wood to the fireplace.

And when the depth of the combustion chamber is reduced in relation to its height, there is a risk of regularly getting smoke in the room - this means soot and soot on the walls, ceiling, furniture and accessories. And the operation of such a fireplace will be extremely unsafe

Smokey for fireplace

To prevent smoke from occurring, except correct calculation fireboxes, the parameters of the chimney will be no less important, since they also affect the creation of normal draft and the activity of burning wood.

It is necessary to correctly determine the diameter of the channel or the size of the rectangular cross-section of the chimney opening and the height of the pipe. According to safety standards, the diameter of the chimney cannot be less than 150 ÷ ​​170 mm, or the rectangular cross-section must be 1/10 of the size of the combustion chamber.

The chimney pipe usually rises no lower than five meters, but sometimes a greater height is required. This parameter will depend on the area of ​​the roof in which it will be located, and on the height of the roof ridge.

Fireplace materials and necessary tools

Having drawn up a project and made calculations, they proceed to the selection and acquisition building materials. You need to immediately decide whether the fireplace will be finished with decorative material, or whether its masonry is planned to be done “for jointing”. This determines which brick can be chosen for laying.

Since the work on building a fireplace begins with the foundation, and only after it is ready they move on to laying out the firebox and chimney, then it’s worth starting to list the necessary materials from there.

Foundation

Since the planned structure is not as massive as a full-fledged furnace, there is no need to build a strong foundation. If a slab, well-buried foundation was built for the house, then it will be quite suitable as a base for a light corner fireplace. If the foundation is strip, then additional work will have to be done on the base for the fireplace.

• Waterproofing is necessary for any structure - it will reliably protect it from capillary penetration of moisture from the soil and will allow it to stand without damage long time. Therefore, it is necessary to purchase a waterproofing material - it can be roofing felt or thick polyethylene film.
• Crushed stone and sand will be required for the construction of foundation cushions and manufacturing concrete mortar.
• To make formwork you will need a board. There are two methods of making formwork: temporary and stationary. When choosing a temporary option, after the foundation has gained strength and is ready for further work, the formwork is dismantled, and a sand-gravel mixture is poured into the gaps left between the soil and concrete.

In addition to formwork boards, they are often used a metal sheet, especially in cases where the foundation has a semicircular or other complex shape.

• Reinforcement in the form of metal rods with a diameter of 8 ÷ 10 mm. The reinforcing bars are tied together with steel wire, forming a mesh.

Another option is to purchase a ready-made reinforcing steel mesh with cells of 50 - 80 mm.

Fireplace walls and chimney

To build the fireplace and chimney itself, you will need the following materials:

• To lay the walls, firebox and chimney, it will be necessary to purchase two types of solid bricks - red and fireclay.

— If the fireplace will be decorated with paneling, then you need to choose a high-quality ceramic brick. In the case where it is assumed external finishing fireplace, working (ordinary) brick is also suitable.

— Fireclay fire-resistant brick is used for laying the combustion chamber and the beginning of the chimney.

Bricks are calculated individually, and this quantity depends on the order and model chosen. Even a small corner fireplace may require from 350 to 650 pieces. When purchasing a brick, you need to add 10 ÷ 12% reserve to the total quantity - it will be useful in case of defective copies or unexpected damage as a result of adjustment in accordance with the order.

• Traditional materials such as clay, sand and cement can be used for masonry mortar. However, it should be noted that for furnace work It is very difficult to choose the desired fat content of clay and optimal proportions, and if there is no experience in this process, then it is better to use ready-made compositions that require only proper preparation, the technology of which is indicated on the packaging. Such masonry compositions can be purchased in specialized stores in the form of dry building mixtures.

You need to know one more subtlety, recommended by experienced stove makers - the laying of the combustion chamber, carried out with fireclay bricks, should be done on a rubbed mortar made of clay with minimal additions of cement and sand to it.

• Steel corners measuring 40×40 or 50×50. The length of these elements is selected depending on the width of the combustion chamber, drying chamber or ash chamber. 300 ÷ 400 mm is added to the dimensions of these chambers, and the resulting value is multiplied by two, since the corners will be laid on both sides of the chambers.
• If you choose a fireplace model with a semicircular firebox overlap, you will have to prepare a template from a board, plywood or metal sheet. Loose bricks or timber beams can be used for supports.

• The chimney can be made of brick or made of metal. If the latter option is chosen, then a pipe must be purchased at least five meters long, but to find out more precisely how much it will be needed, you need to take measurements at the installation site of the fireplace, from its top to the height of the ridge.
• For a brick chimney, you will need a fireplace damper with a long handle.

• For metal pipe a built-in adjusting element - gate will be required.

Stainless steel chimney element - damper

• If you decide to build a ready-made cast iron or steel firebox into the fireplace, then this is what you buy instead of fireclay bricks. It must be said that installing a finished firebox into a fireplace will greatly simplify and speed up the work, since it will be lined with bricks of a ready-made shape.
• Since the fireplace will be installed in a corner, the walls forming the corner must be insulated from exposure to high temperatures. For this, heat-resistant plasterboard or asbestos sheets are purchased.

• For cladding a building you can use different materials- it can be a facing tile that imitates stone, ceramic tile, decorative plaster or even a ready-made portal made of natural or artificial stone.

You may be interested in information on how to knead correctly.

Required Tools

To lay any fireplace, you need to prepare the following tools:

1 – a hammer-pick will be needed to split bricks.

2 – trowels of different configurations, small in size for applying and leveling the mortar.

3 – large trowel (trowel) for mixing and applying the solution to large planes.

4 – the construction level requires control over the horizontal and vertical positions of the masonry and seams.

5 – plumb line for checking the verticals of the walls.

6 – laser level (if possible) to simplify the process of marking the floor and walls.

7 – cord along which each of the rows of masonry will be output.

8 - mallet (wooden or rubber mallet) for leveling bricks in a row.

9 – the rule is used to level the poured foundation and to check the evenness of the fireplace walls.

10 – containers for mixing the solution and for water.

11 - jointing to give the seams a neat shape to the seams.

Preparatory work

Pouring the foundation

If you have to start work from the foundation, then it is carried out according to one scheme, in the following order:

• Before erecting a foundation for it, it is necessary to make a recess of 400 ÷ 500 mm in the soil under the floor. It should have the shape of the base of the fireplace, but 100 ÷ 120 mm wider.
• Next, sand is poured into the bottom of the pit - it will become the first layer of waterproofing for the foundation. The thickness of this layer when compacted should be 100 ÷ 120 mm. In order to achieve maximum density of the sand layer, it is moistened with water during the compaction process.
• A backfill of crushed stone is made on top of the sand cushion, which is also compacted. Its layer should be the same thickness as the sand layer.

• Next, reinforcement elements are laid on the crushed stone.
• Then the walls of the house are fenced off from the future foundation with asbestos sheets, which will protect them from high temperatures and help retain heat inside the room.
• The next stage is the installation of formwork. If the base is semicircular, as shown in the photo, then the most optimal An option would be to fence it with a metal sheet, which is supported by stacks of bricks.

For a foundation with straight lines at the base (rectangle, trapezoid, etc.), the formwork is most often made from boards that are knocked together. If gaps have formed between the boards, then the inside of the formwork is covered with dense polyethylene film. It will not only prevent the solution from leaking out, but will also retain moisture in the solution for a longer period, which will allow it to set and gain strength evenly.

• When the formwork is ready, you can mix the solution. It is advisable to fill the entire volume of the foundation in one go, but its first layer can be made coarser, consisting of a sand-gravel mixture and 4:1 cement. The thickness of this layer can be 120 ÷ 150 mm.

On top of it, a thinner layer of cement and sand mortar is immediately poured in a ratio of 1:3.

• The surface of the foundation is leveled using a rule, covered with plastic film and left to mature. This method of maintaining freshly poured concrete is especially appropriate if the foundation is being built in summer time at high temperatures outside, when moisture evaporates at an accelerated pace.

Roofing material is laid on top of the finished, brand-strength foundation in two or three layers.

Preparing for brickwork

Each master stove maker has his own secrets for laying heating structures, which were acquired over a long period of work. It would be nice to know about several of them before starting to build a fireplace.

• Laying the fireplace begins only three to four weeks after pouring the foundation, since the concrete must be well strengthened.
• If the masonry will be carried out using clay mortar, then before starting work the brick is soaked in water for one and a half to two days. A brick soaked in water will no longer absorb moisture from the mortar too intensively, and this will allow drying to proceed evenly, which will prevent cracking at the seams.

• In order to avoid serious errors in the order and carefully understand the configuration of each row, even experienced stove builders, when starting the construction of a new stove model, lay the entire structure “dry”, without using mortar. If you follow this procedure, the main laying of the mortar will be much easier and faster.

In addition, by laying out the fireplace “dry” you can immediately adjust the bricks to the right size and number them, putting the number of the row and the location of this element in it. It should be taken into account that the seams between the rows and bricks should have a width of 8 ÷ 10 mm.

• Well, there is one more everyday point that must be taken into account - when carrying out such work, dust and dirt will inevitably form in the room. To prevent things from being damaged, it is recommended to take them out of the room or cover them with thick plastic film, with sheets overlapping by 500 mm.

These subtleties will greatly facilitate and simplify both work and cleaning after completion of the masonry. Having studied all the nuances preparatory work, you can go directly to the masonry.

You might be interested in information about what it is

Laying a corner fireplace

To be able to choose the appropriate option, you can consider several ordering schemes - simple and more complex. And everyone will decide for themselves which model will be easier for them to complete.

First option

This version of the fireplace is quite complex due to the unusual shape of the combustion chamber, but if desired, it can also be brought to life, based on a description of the features of each row of the diagram.

• Row 1 - you need to work on it extremely carefully and carefully, since the quality of all further masonry will depend on it.
• Row 2 – a niche is formed in which a box for collecting ash will be installed.
• Row 3 – laid out according to the pattern. A hole is left in the middle part of the surface for discharging ash from the combustion chamber into the ash pan.
• 4th row - at this stage the bottom of the firebox is laid out; fireclay refractory bricks are used for this. The hole left in the previous row is covered with a cast iron grate (grid).
• Row 5 - on this row, the rear and side walls of the firebox begin to be built, which will form the portal. The walls are laid in two rows of thickness - the first is located near the wall and is made of red brick, the second, inside the firebox, is laid from fireclay, and the brick is mounted flat. The front part of the firebox floor and the side walls of the portal are also built from red brick.

• 6 ÷ 9 row– the laying is carried out according to the diagram and fully corresponds to the description of the fifth row. The walls of the combustion chamber are being erected.
• Row 10 – this row produces very important work - construction fireplace portal. It should be noted that the shape of the portal can be changed to arched or rectangular if desired. However, if the portal will have an arched or arch-like shape, it is recommended to make a template for this. In this case, it can be cut from ordinary plywood, 10 mm thick. For stability, the template must have a certain thickness of 100 ÷ 150 mm, so two identical parts are cut out of plywood, between which a wide spacer is made.

The template is leveled and supported on both sides by stacks of bricks. A brick is laid along the end side of the template, forming a figured portal.

11 - 19 rows

• 11 ÷ 12 rows - these two rows form the inner walls of the combustion chamber and the outer walls of the fireplace. When laying out a portal in the form of an arch or the same shape as presented in this order, the bricks on the outer and inner walls are sawed off or chipped so that they fit tightly into the shape of the figured portal.
• 13 ÷ 14 rows – laid out on the back wall of the portal the so-called “mirror wall”. Its laying is carried out at an angle.

Sloping wall - “mirror”

The work can be carried out in two ways: the brick is installed at a slope, as shown in the photo, or it is laid flat with a shift towards the firebox by 40 ÷ 50 mm. In the latter case, after completing the removal of the wall, its surface will have to be leveled with a solution, since it must be smooth. It is this slope that sets the direction of the smoke rising from burning wood.

• 15 ÷ 18 rows – the rear inclined, side and front walls continue to form around the figured portal.
• Row 19 – interior bricks the combustion chamber moves towards the firebox, forming a rectangular chimney opening.

18 - 20 rows

• Row 20 is the penultimate row before completing the laying of the front wall around the portal. The upper part is laid out according to the scheme - the chimney opening continues to form.

• 21 row - completely covers the arched portal on the front wall and is displayed on even rows of masonry. The posterior inclined wall passes into so-called "tooth", which, in combination with the slope of the wall, regulates the passage of smoke to the chimney outlet.

• 22 ÷ 23 row– the “tooth” of fireclay brick continues to form. External masonry is done with red ceramic bricks.

• Row 24 - the chimney hole is made of fireclay bricks, and the surface of the mantel is made of ceramic material.

• Row 25 – the fireplace mantel is completely covered, leaving a hole for installing a chimney damper.
• Row 26 - on this row, a valve is mounted on the hole for the chimney pipe. It is best to choose an option with a long handle or gate.
• Row 27 – a smoke ceramic or asbestos pipe and is lined on all sides with bricks prepared to fit its shape. Or, an even brick is used, and the gaps between it and the pipe are filled with a solution consisting of sand and clay.
• 28 and subsequent rows - the installed round ceramic pipe is covered with brick.

It should be noted that this version of a corner fireplace will be difficult for a beginner to complete if there is no experience in designing stoves. Therefore, it is better to invite an experienced master as a partner who can help you avoid making mistakes.

Second option

This corner fireplace model is simpler to make, so it is quite accessible for beginners. Moreover, a detailed order is given, which is less complex compared to the design presented above. In the order diagram, the areas where red and fireclay bricks are used are highlighted in color, which makes it more understandable.

The foundation of this corner fireplace is arranged in the form of a square - this is convenient because the pre-furnace area will immediately be decorated with a heat-resistant surface, which is necessary for any heating structure.

• On waterproofed The foundation is laid with a zero row of bricks - it will become the basis for laying subsequent rows, so work on it must be carried out with special care. It must be laid out in exact accordance with the drawing shown in the diagram.
• Row 1 forms the bottom of the blower chamber and is laid out according to the presented diagram, so it will be necessary to adjust two bricks, the corners of which must be cut or carefully chipped at the desired angle.
• Row 2 - at this stage a niche is formed for drying firewood or a blower chamber. They will differ only in the presence or absence of an ash pan and a grate.

If it is decided to place a drying niche under the firebox, then on its outer side it is laid metal corner, size 40 × 40 or 50 × 50 mm. The length of this metal profile should be 600 mm.

• Row 3 - the masonry proceeds according to the diagram, and a metal sheet measuring 600 × 400 mm and 4 ÷ 5 mm thick is mounted on top of the drying niche. If an ash pan is installed, a cast iron grate of the same size is installed instead of a metal sheet.
• Row 4 – the masonry follows the pattern if a metal sheet has been laid on top of the niche. When installing an ash pan under the firebox, the laying is carried out according to the order plan, with the exception that the grate remains open.
• Row 5 – the bottom part of the firebox is formed from fireclay bricks. It is highlighted in yellow on the diagram.

• 6 ÷ 8 rows - work is carried out in the same order: the walls of the combustion chamber are raised from red ceramic material, and the inner part of the firebox wall is formed from fire-resistant fireclay bricks, cut in half along the thickness.
• Rows 7 ÷ 9 are also mounted according to the order.
• 10 ÷ 11 rows - on the back wall a slope begins to form towards the combustion chamber, which will become the lower part of the “tooth”. In order for the slope to be even, the bricks are sharpened and adjusted to each other.
• Row 12 - at this stage, the combustion chamber is covered along the outer edge with steel corners 50x50 mm, 600 mm long.
• 13 ÷ 14 rows are laid out in order.
• Row 15 – the construction of the back wall and the “tooth” is completed, above which the chimney begins.
• 16 ÷ 17 rows - the upper part of the portal is formed, turning into the mantelpiece. The brick is placed with a shift in outside.
• 18 ÷ 20 rows - work proceeds according to the diagram. The upper opening of the fireplace narrows with each row, forming a chimney channel.
• 21 ÷ 24 rows – laying a chimney with additional side walls.
• Rows 25 ÷ 29 – the chimney pipe is removed, while a smoke damper is installed on the 27th row.
• Starting from row 30, the chimney pipe is installed - it can be made of brick, or a metal version can be installed. The pipe is routed through the attic floor and then through the roof.

Third option

This model of a corner fireplace was developed by master V. Bykov and has been used for construction for many years. During this time, it became popular due to the excellent efficiency of its design.

Having a length of sides located along the walls of only 770 mm, the fireplace is quite compact and can be installed even in a small room, which is an undeniable advantage of the model.

This fireplace is equipped with a ash chamber, so for the hole in the bottom of the firebox you will need a grate measuring 250 × 250 mm. Metal strips 5 mm thick and 40 mm wide will be needed for laying out the ceiling part of the ash and combustion chambers.

Work on the construction of a fireplace begins with marking the first row of masonry, which is installed with special care.

• Row 1 is laid out on waterproofed the surface of the foundation, according to the markings made in advance and in compliance with the pattern of the brickwork.
• 2 ÷ 3 rows are also laid strictly in accordance with the order pattern.
• Row 4 – the base of the combustion chamber is formed, so the middle of it is laid with fireclay bricks.
• Row 5 – the formation of the blower chamber begins. Metal inserts are installed on its side and back walls, which are securely fixed to the surface of the bricks.
• Row 6 is laid with fireclay bricks, and a grate is installed on metal inserts. You can do without inserts, but then the sides for installing the grate will have to be provided in the masonry of the previous row, moving the bricks 10 ÷ 15 mm forward.
• Row 7 – the walls of the combustion chamber are laid, as well as the sides of the portal.
• 8 ÷ 12 rows – the walls of the firebox and the side pillars of the fireplace portal are displayed.
• Row 13 – the walls are bandaged with steel strips measuring 600 × 50 × 5 mm.
• 14 ÷ 15 rows - the rear wall is laid out at a slope towards the front of the firebox - this slope is called a “mirror”. This configuration helps direct the smoke into the chimney and, at the same time, it serves as a heat reflector towards the room. The inclined part of the back wall of the firebox, laid out at an angle of 20 degrees, smoothly passes into the ceiling and chimney pipe.
• 16th row – a horizontal surface is displayed, so-called "tooth", essentially being the completion of the “mirror” masonry. The “tooth” is coated with a solution of sand and clay, since its surface must be perfectly smooth so that soot does not accumulate on it.
• 17 ÷ 19 rows - the inside of the front wall of the fireplace is laid out with hewn bricks, as this creates the shape of the chimney channel, which should evenly go around the “tooth”.
• 22 ÷ 22 rows - a part of the chimney duct called “higho” is mounted. It must have a size of at least 140 × 270 mm. After laying the 22nd row, a smoke valve is installed on it using a clay solution.
• Row 23 - the smoke exhaust channel continues to form, having a curved shape.
• 24 ÷ 25 rows - the curved direction is brought to the vertical position of the chimney. This hole must also have a cross-sectional size of 140 x 270 mm.
• Having reached this section of the fireplace, install a metal or ceramic pipe, which is covered with a metal casing or brickwork.

In order to comply with fire safety requirements, it is necessary to carefully consider the passage of the pipe through the ceiling and rafter system, since these parts of the structure are made of flammable materials. They must be insulated from the chimney with special boxes filled with non-combustible materials, such as expanded clay or sand.

After completing the construction of the fireplace, its masonry should dry thoroughly. In each individual case, this process takes different time, since it depends on the massiveness of the structure and the ambient temperature.

Drying takes place at open doors and valves. An ordinary 200 W light bulb, which is suspended in combustion chamber and leave it on until the masonry mortar is completely dry.

It is better to postpone surface finishing, if planned, for several months, during which the fireplace will be actively used.

So, building a corner fireplace with one smoke exhaust duct is much easier than building one of the complex models of stoves. Therefore, study 5 5

Installing a fireplace is a fairly complex engineering task. This work cannot be described as simple or impossible; much depends on applied skills and experience in masonry work.

Choosing the type of fireplace

The construction of a fireplace begins with determining its location - against the wall, in the middle of the room or inside the wall, if its construction is just planned. The built-in option saves space and allows you to use heat in adjacent rooms. An island-type hearth looks impressive in large rooms in the form of a circle, visually accessible from all sides. An attached fireplace is a universal solution for use in a finished room: it is located in the center of the wall, sometimes in the corner.

Using certain tricks, craftsmen create “aerial” structures corner fireplaces

Open fire for the soul

Fireplaces with an open firebox are characterized by high heat losses due to the impossibility of limiting and regulating the air supply. As a result, hot combustion products are removed too quickly compared to stoves and closed fireplaces, taking with them the lion's share of the thermal energy obtained from burning wood. The productivity of these devices rarely exceeds 15%, so they are used in small rooms. Such a fireplace will not be able to heat a significant area, but will only serve as an element of the interior, consuming 2–4 times more firewood than a fireplace with doors. An open fire heats up immediately, but the wood burns out quickly; after the fuel burns, the firebox stops emitting heat.

The possible scattering of sparks from an open fireplace is determined by increased requirements to fire safety:

• Construction of the surface in front of the firebox from fireproof material;
• Absence of flammable objects near the fireplace;
• Controlling the combustion process until the fire is completely extinguished.

Tip: Dry hardwood logs spark less than pine firewood and leave little soot in the chimney.

Safe warmth of a closed fireplace

In a closed fuel chamber, the firewood burns completely: without any remaining coal, and the ash accumulates in a removable tray. With the door closed and minimal oxygen supply, the combustion process can last for many hours. Fireboxes for these heating devices are equipped with combustion control systems and are made of fire-resistant steel. Advantages characteristic of closed fireplaces:

• Productivity up to 75%;
• Safe Operation;
• Selecting a firebox from a variety of models;
• Ability to work both indoors and outdoors.

Closed fireplaces allow you to organize extensive air heating systems for your home

To heat other rooms of a private house, a heat exchanger in the form of a container, coil or water “jacket” is installed in a closed fireplace. The heated coolant is supplied to the radiators; the circuit can function independently, as well as be connected to an existing heating system.

We calculate the design of the fireplace

Heat transfer and absence of smoke depend on the correct proportions individual parts, present in a fireplace of any configuration. The fireplace design includes following components:

• Under – a place for burning wood, lined with fire-resistant bricks above the floor, equipped with a grate;
• The firebox is a combustion chamber, made of fireclay bricks that can withstand high temperatures;
• Smoke collector - a place where flue gases slow down, heat up, and draft is formed due to the difference in temperatures of cold air and gaseous combustion products;
• Smoke tooth - a protrusion between the fuel chamber and the smoke collector, responsible for the formation of a gas threshold;
• Gate valve - to regulate draft and shut off the chimney after the logs burn out;
• Chimney - removes gases to the outside: the higher it is, the better the draft, the minimum permissible is 5 m.

The dimensions of the fireplace depend on the size of the room; the optimal proportions are calculated using the formulas (S - area):

• S of the portal = 1/50 of S of the room;
• S pod = 70% of S portal;
• Firebox depth: portal height = 2:3 or 1:2;
• Chimney cross-section = 10% of the S portal.

Based on the calculations carried out, a project for the future fireplace is drawn up - a drawing with dimensions and order, clearly showing the location of the bricks in each row

Necessary materials for construction

For the solution, sand with a fraction of 0.2–1.5 mm (within one cube), Portland cement grade 300 (up to 100 kg), Cambrian or oven clay (for the hearth) is suitable. It’s easier to purchase a ready-made solution. The foundation will use reinforcement with a diameter of 8–10 mm, crushed stone of a fraction of 2–6 cm. In addition to the main materials, you will need a furnace valve and a grate.

Sand for the masonry mixture is sifted through a fine sieve and soaked in water several times until it stops becoming cloudy. The clay is infused in water for 7–10 days, sometimes stirring until homogeneous mass. Red brick is soaked for a minute immediately before laying.

Advice: experienced stove makers have known for a long time that the best clay is not the one dug up yesterday, but the one that has lain under the sun and rain for many years.

We build a fireplace with our own hands

Using the example of a country fireplace with a glass door that increases its efficiency, let's look at the technology for building a home fireplace.

• The first thing you should take care of before making a fireplace is to prepare detailed drawings brick construction: plan, views from all sides, sections. A novice stove maker should definitely have orders; even an experienced master can find it difficult to lay out a fireplace without plans for each row. Those who do not perfectly understand the principles of operation of the hearth should not try to invent their own fireplace design; it is better to take an already proven diagram from a manual book or download it from the Internet.
• The foundation for the fireplace must support its weight, which the prepared drawings will help you determine. The average weight of one red or fireclay stove brick is 3.5 kg, clinker brick is 4 kg. You need to add 10% to the weight of the brick, this is the approximate weight of the masonry mortar and additional elements. The weight of the chimney, if it rests on the fireplace, must also be taken into account. The foundation should be waterproofed to prevent moisture from penetrating into the masonry. If there are at least three rows of bricks from the concrete level to the ash pan, or, if there is no ash pan, four rows to the firebox bottom, you can lay roll waterproofing. If the thickness of the brickwork is less, apply a cement-polymer waterproofing mixture to the concrete in two layers.
• Let's start laying. We recommend pre-wetting each brick by immersing it in a container of water for a few seconds. The first row must be laid very accurately; the whole stove will “dance” from it. From the second to fourth row, lay out the ash pan and the ash pan; for a medium-sized fireplace, its height will be one row. Cover the ash pan with a grate. If the fireplace firebox is lined, we lay fire-resistant bricks under the grate.

Please note that experienced master first lays out each row dry, precisely fits all the bricks that need to be cut, and only then places it on the mortar. By the way, we preferred to buy ready-made masonry mixtures; they are inexpensive; there is no point in bothering with preparing clay and fireclay mortars yourself. Brick yellow color- fireproof, fireclay

• We continue laying in accordance with the order. First we build the outer part of the fireplace.

We carefully control both vertical and horizontal levels

• Having laid out 3-5 outer rows, we proceed to lining from the inside. Its masonry must be independent, we do not bandage it; for reasons of economy, they decided to lay expensive refractory bricks on the edge. To increase heat transfer, the configuration of the firebox in plan should be trapezoidal. Since our fireplace is equipped with a door, it’s time to install it. Be sure to remove the door with glass, and attach oven tape to the frame in four places. It must be laid in the horizontal joints of the masonry.

When erecting a firebox and installing a door, a sheet of basalt cardboard should be laid between the red and fireclay bricks and between the steel door frame and the brickwork; it will reduce the heat transfer between these fireplace elements and protect them from deformation

• We reach the level of the top of the door, the stove band and the frame itself are securely fastened. The space between the outer walls and the lining is filled with broken bricks and filled with mortar. If we decided to make a fireplace with a water circuit, we would insert the registers here. We begin very important work: we begin to lay out the chimney tooth, constantly checking the drawings, because it is impossible to make a mistake in its shape and cross-section.

The seams in the masonry look terrible. It is very difficult to make neat facial jointing during the laying process. In our case, it was decided to leave this work for later; during the work, the master wipes the surface of the brick with a damp cloth or sponge until the solution has completely dried

• We lay out the smoke collector, this is also not easy, you need to periodically look into the project. Let's move on to the chimney, not forgetting to insert a damper.

The damper in the chimney is placed no lower than the fourth row from the smoke collector

• Done, now you need to thoroughly clean the masonry from the mortar and install the glass door.

You can check the draft by burning a newspaper the very next day, but it will be possible to fully heat the fireplace only after the masonry has dried and gained strength, this may take weeks and months

To sum up, let's conclude - the decision to self-production the fireplace is taken thoughtfully and reasonably; if you are unsure of your capabilities, it is more advisable to trust the masters of the stove business.

Video: DIY fireplace

Many people believe that installing a fireplace is beyond the means of the average person. And this is true if you plan to hire an experienced stove maker, who can now be counted on the fingers of one hand. After all, it is not profitable for masons of narrow specialization to create rarely ordered fireplaces at attractively low prices.

In fact, almost anyone can lay out a fireplace without having the highest professional skills and without spending colossal amounts of money from the family budget.

In this article, I will give you detailed diagrams and I'll tell you how to do it simple fireplace with your own hands.

Living fire

To begin with, it should be recalled that a fireplace is not a type of heating. It produces directed thermal radiation only as long as the firewood is burning in the combustion chamber. The exception is fireplace stoves, which we will undoubtedly talk about next time.

However, in addition to the fact that a fireplace can become a magnificent decorative component of the interior of your home, it also has many advantages, for example, excellent circulation capacity, which will allow you to keep fresh air in the room when lighting. Also, if you have to go somewhere for a long time in the winter and turn off the stationary heating, then upon arrival, while it accelerates and heats the room, you will comfortably spend time near the lit fireplace.

Particularly nimble people adapt the fireplace to a grill and fry kebabs in it, which we miss so much on frosty, snowy days. And it’s just very pleasant to sit in front of a cheerfully crackling fire, sitting comfortably in an armchair with a glass of sparkling wine.

Preparation of material

So, to build a simple fireplace with a ash pan, approximately 1.90 cm high up to the valve, with a brick thickness of 6.5 cm, which I outlined in the diagrams below, you will need:

Red brick. About 400 pieces. It’s quite easy to find it in the ruins of houses in villages, after dismantling an old stove or by purchasing a new one in a regular hardware store. I prefer old brick, homemade technology (it is durable and at the same time easy to grind), but, in general, the origin of the material does not play an important role.

When choosing, you should focus on the integrity and quality of the surface. Select blocks without cracks or significant signs of destruction. Half thirds will also be used, so you can use those too. The most important thing is that the bricks are strong and do not fall apart in your hands.

If material from an old furnace is used, it should be cleaned of soot.

Damaged corners, or simply if you want to round them, can be ground off with a piece of another brick; usually, red brick is easy to process in a similar way.

The bricks should be soaked in plain water until completely absorbed (that is, until the bubbles coming from them disappear). It is not necessary to take a large container; we will build rows intermittently, so you can load them in small doses.

Clay. Since I often build fireplaces for people, I stock it up for future use. Often, clay remains in abundance for people digging drainage holes, wells, and deep foundations. They are trying to get rid of it, so getting clay for the fireplace for free is not difficult. The main thing is that it is homogeneous, strong and free of dirt and stones.

We also place the clay in water for 2 days to allow the lumps to swell and disappear.

Any sand will do, but it is still advisable to choose coarse-grained sand. You can use the career one, but it is the least prerogative.

Fittings and corners. The angles you'll need can be taken from old supplies, but if you don't have any, buy them at a hardware store. In secret, if you come there and ask to cut off the required meter, the owners will not only be unhappy, but will also raise the price, since they will have to spoil the material (who will buy the rest after you?). Therefore, just ask if the required footage is available in stock. In most cases (from my own experience), large stores have them and sell them at a very low cost. We take corners with a cross section of 40 mm.

Reinforcement (rods) - cross-section 8 millimeters.

As for the fittings, they are not expensive anyway.

Smoke damper.

Bucket . The bucket into which you will load the solution should be made of iron or plastic; you will most likely punch it with a trowel.

Bath for mixing the solution. I use a regular old style baby bath, but you can use anything you like as long as it's easy to mix.

Trowel. The most ordinary, no frills.

Level - 0.5 meters long. Plumb line to determine horizontal accuracy.

Grinder with a disc for stone. For sawing bricks in places where halves and 2/3s are required. And a metal disc to adjust the size of the reinforcement.

Hammer.

Roulette.

Step-by-step schemes

To begin with, you should prepare the platform on which the future fireplace will stand. If you still have the foundation from an old stove, great, the main thing is that it is free of cracks. The pedestal must be at least 1-1.5 meters high. Many people fill it with solid brick or lay it out of brick, but I prefer to fold backfill brick formwork and pour a screed with reinforcement onto it; this way, in general, it is more economical, but for completely inexperienced craftsmen it is risky, because the backfill must be perfectly compacted.

ATTENTION! The foundation should not be in any way connected with the foundation of the house!

After the pedestal has dried, 1-2 layers should be laid waterproofing film or roofing felt. A thin layer of clay-sand screed is poured on top, at the rate of clay-sand 1:3. When it dries, you can start arranging.

ATTENTION! No more than 5 rows should be folded per day, since a wet structure may “leak.”

I drew the diagram in detail in the Point program. If anything is unclear, ask. I’m temporarily renting a computer from a friend, taking advantage of his hospitality, but at least I’ll log in more often from my tablet, look through comments and answer questions.

For beginners, I advise you to take a Lego set with large parts from your children-nephews and first put together a model from it. There are all the suitable parts - large blocks, halves and 2/3s. Many sites advise practicing on bricks without mortar, but using a construction set is much more convenient.

The red stripes on the diagrams show the rods, the corners are blue. Blue also indicates the valve in the final stages at the top of the fireplace.

Don't forget to use a level to make the structure as level as possible.

Apply the solution in a thin, uniform layer not exceeding 0.5 cm.

Pipe

The pipe outlet from the fireplace must be strictly vertical. Bends and turns are allowed, in exceptional cases, no more than 40 degrees. The chimney can also be made of brick, combining the last 2 rows from the above diagram. The chimney is above the roof, laid out on cement-sand mortar. A special smoke cap is placed on it to protect it from snow or rain. However, its output depends on the angle of the roof slope, so if you have any questions about its design, tell us about the material and angle of your roof slope in the comments.

You cannot plaster the inside of the fireplace. You can only lightly rub it with the remains of the clay-sand mortar.

Unfortunately, somehow we didn’t have to photograph the fireplaces that we made, but Maria still has several photographs of one of them.

I look forward to your questions in the comments and good luck to you in your future construction.