Finishing the inside and outside of a timber bathhouse is carried out only after the structure has been completely shrinked and caulked. To do the cladding yourself, you need to select the right materials and follow the instructions provided.

Content:

Finishing the steam room is necessary not only for the implementation stylistic decisions. This process also includes insulation, steam and waterproofing. External and internal finishing of a bathhouse made of timber is not carried out immediately upon completion of construction. You need to wait until the structure has completely settled and then apply caulking. Sometimes about one or two years pass between the construction of a log house and its cladding. It is not advisable to cover the structure up to the caulk, since this process involves raising the bathhouse to a height of 8-10 cm. In this case finishing material will be damaged.

Interior decoration of a bathhouse made of timber

As a rule, the interior decoration of a bathhouse made of profiled timber is not carried out. The walls in such a steam room are initially smooth and even, and therefore they are simply treated with an antiseptic solution. But if desired, the lining of the steam room must be carried out only with environmentally friendly and natural materials. Do not use hardware because they get very hot. Please note that fasteners must be galvanized and be recessed; use wooden ones as an alternative.

Interior finishing of a bathhouse made of timber with clapboard

The lining is optimal for finishing a bathhouse made of timber. A room in which there will be high temperatures can be decorated with linden or larch. Touching such covering even with high temperatures, it is impossible to get a burn. Coniferous wood is not used in the decoration of the steam room, because when heated it releases resin, which can cause a burn. It makes sense to combine several types of wood when interior decoration baths The lining is laid, as a rule, in two ways - vertically and horizontally. Most often, a vertical finishing method is used in baths.

Work order:

1. We make markings for installing vertical slats. We start from the corners with a step of about 590 mm between the internal edges.
2. We lay the waterproofing from bottom to top. We place the top film on the bottom with an overlap of 25-30 cm. We secure the top edge with a stapler or self-adhesive.
3. We place the protective film under the racks, which we install in the corners according to the markings. Using a level or plumb line, place them in a strictly vertical position.
4. We stretch the rope from below and above between the outer posts. It will serve as a guide for basing the internal racks.
5. We install the internal racks.
6. Align the protective film. Make sure that air does not enter the area of ​​exposed logs.
7. We place thermal insulation mats in the spaces between the racks from bottom to top. We carefully press each new mat towards the bottom one. Avoid any gaps. We level the upper mats with a knife.
8. Place a layer of vapor barrier foil or polyethylene on top.
9. We fix the horizontal slats. The lining strips will be mounted on them. We screw or nail the slats on top of the vapor barrier at the top and bottom of the future sheathing. We place the internal slats in increments of about 600 mm. Use a level.
10. We place the first plank vertically in the corner of the wall. Its groove should face the master. The first strip is very important, since the quality of the future cladding as a whole depends on how correctly it is secured.
11. Using nails or self-tapping screws along the edge, we secure the lining to each horizontal rail. Remember that the fastening caps must be completely closed when decoratively lining the corners.
12. We insert the clamps into the edge of the groove of the lining and nail them to the sheathing. We do this operation with all subsequent strips. Tap the mallet against a block of wood to protect the finishing material from damage.
13. We cover all the walls, fasten the baseboards and seal the corners with decorative corners.

Interior finishing of a bathhouse made of timber with facing tiles

Cladding tiles are a universal material that is highly resistant to unfavorable conditions bath rooms. In addition, the tiles are easy to care for and will last for many years. Finishing a bathhouse made of timber with your own hands using tiles makes it possible to realize various design solutions.

We carry out the work in the following order:

1. The walls are pre-sheathed with insulating waterproof material - roofing felt or roofing felt.
2. We attach a metal mesh base on top, which we cover with a layer of plaster. The thickness of the latter should be at least 1.5 cm. We make sure that plaster layer was perfectly smooth.
3. Cooking adhesive composition. You can make it yourself from cement and sand. The proportion is 1:4 respectively.
4. There are three ways to lay tiles: seam-to-seam, diagonal, or staggered. We lay the tiles on the wall from bottom to top.
5. Apply adhesive solution to each tile. We give the desired horizon to the tile using a rubber mallet. Press the tile evenly against the wall.
6. We fix the seams between the tiles with a cross.
7. Maintain an even row of tile covering. To do this, use a level or lacing.
8. We collect excess glue that has protruded beyond the edges with a spatula.
9. We cut the tiles using a tile cutter. We install such cut tiles in the most inconspicuous places, for example, where they will be hidden by a bench, shelf or baseboard.

Exterior finishing of a bathhouse made of timber

Additional external cladding of the bathhouse, just like the internal one, is done only after the structure has completely shrunk. Before finishing works it is necessary to caulk the inter-crown gaps. To do this, we forget strands of insulation (tow, jute, moss) in the cracks.

Exterior decoration of a bathhouse made of timber with siding

Siding panels serve as excellent protection for buildings from weather conditions. Before installing the siding on the walls, you should lay it down on a flat surface for a day or two. Please ensure that the type of siding you choose is as resistant to moisture as possible.

We carry out the work in the following sequence:

1. We treat the walls with a primer and let them dry (about 8 hours).
2. We fill the sheathing in increments of up to 1 meter.
3. We lay insulation in the space between the beams. Special attention It’s worth paying attention to the corners. To align them we use an aluminum profile.
4. There should be free space between the insulation and the siding for ventilation. To do this, we install a counter-lattice. We screw the batten into the sheathing. Its cross-section must correspond to the size of the gap.
5. We waterproof the surface using a special film.
6. We secure the starting bar with self-tapping screws. At the same time we install the corner parts.
7. We install siding sheets first of all in the starting and corner strips.
8. We lay the panels in the direction from bottom to top. We join the parts using grooves.
9. We fix the finishing strip last.
10. We install platbands.

Siding may warp slightly over time due to temperature. Therefore, a gap of at least 1 cm should be left between the screw head and the panel. The fasteners should be located in the center of the holes, perpendicular to the panels.

Exterior decoration of a bathhouse made of timber with a block house

Block house is one of the varieties of imitation timber. It has a rounded outside. Thus, a sheathed bathhouse looks like a structure made of rounded logs. Before installation, we treat the block house panels with an antiseptic.

Operating procedure:

1. To secure the block house panels to the walls of the bathhouse, we make lathing. To do this, we use square bars (30x30 mm). We mount them vertically with a pitch of about 50 mm.
2. To install the panels we use clamps. We bend one part into the groove of the panel. We attach the second one to the sheathing using a self-tapping screw.
3. We interconnect the panels and repeat the procedure from bottom to top strictly horizontally.
4. We decorate the corners of the building with plinths. Windows and door - platbands.

Please note that when covering a block house, it is prohibited to lay a thermal insulation layer. This will cause the wood to rot.

The features of a timber bath are demonstrated in the video:

If decorative cladding the outside is not mandatory, then the inside is indispensable. Decorating the walls of a bathhouse with your own hands is not an easy process. From the correct conduction of heat, steam and waterproofing works depend performance characteristics steam room Following the instructions, it will not be difficult for you to complete the complete lining of the bathhouse from timber yourself.

Construction of a bathhouse on suburban area, this is not a tribute to fashion, but a concern for cleanliness and health. Each person strives to make this building not only durable and functional, but also attractive, so that it fits harmoniously into overall design plot. And today all conditions have been created for this.

Most baths have a wooden base, as logs or beams are used for construction. Log buildings, as a rule, do not need additional finishing, because the log house looks excellent and stylish at all times. But structures made of timber, and even more so frame buildings, must have external finishing.

Modern design allows any person’s thoughts to run wild, but still these materials are most often used for bathhouse cladding:

1. Wooden lining;
2. Block house;
3. Panels imitating timber;
4. Siding.

Most of the sauna cladding elements presented are made of wood, but plastic and metal are also gaining popularity among users, as they are durable and attractive. appearance and resistance to external factors. Plus, they don't need paint to add extra protection and beauty.

Wood finish

When the owners begin to decide how to cover the outside of the bathhouse, they first of all remember wooden options finishing. Lining and block house are excellent examples of this, which can be found on every suburban area. Baths lined with these materials always look stylish and modern, and easily fit into any design.

To work with wooden clapboard, block house and imitation timber, you should prepare the necessary tools:

• Wood saw or jigsaw;
• Electric drill or screwdriver;
• Hammer;
• Building level;
• Tape measure and pencil.

This set will be quite enough for working on the bathhouse lining yourself. But if you don’t have much experience, and the design of the building involves a lot of skillfully cut and installed elements, then it is best to use the services of specialists.

In order for the bathhouse to last for a long time, it should be treated with fire-retardant liquids before covering it. It must be taken into account that the substances used should not release toxins and paint is not suitable for this purpose. Otherwise, the owners risk getting poisoned when the bathhouse begins to function at full capacity.

The sauna log house should begin to be sheathed with the installation of the frame. To do this, wooden slats are attached, which are checked by the building level. The frame for the cladding must strictly adhere to all verticals and have no deviations, otherwise the corners of the bathhouse will turn out crooked. First, the outer guides are installed and only then can the central space be filled.

The slats are secured with self-tapping screws or nails. The latter material is much more convenient to use, since if necessary, it will be easier and faster to correct the work. And the frame itself is assembled in a short time. Each slats should be treated with a bioprotective liquid so that they are not attacked by fungi. If there is free space under the rail, then an insert or wedge should be placed at the fastening points. This will avoid sagging on the walls of the bathhouse.

As soon as the frame for the cladding is installed, you should proceed to attaching the lining or block house for the bathhouse. The first board must be placed strictly in a horizontal direction, unless the overall design suggests another option. For convenience, you can draw a line along which to install the first element. The lower edge of the lining is fixed with nails or screws directly through the material. But then the fastening is done using a hidden method, hiding in the grooves of wooden elements.

Each new board is tightly inserted into the previous one, and its position is checked with a building level. Thus, the log house of the bathhouse will be completely sheathed and all that remains is to paint it in the chosen color. For this purpose polyurethane varnishes are used, alkyd paints for a transparent finish. The bathhouse will look much more attractive if the lining retains its natural texture. Therefore, most often the paint does not cover the material, but simply gives it the desired shade.

Siding

Wooden cladding requires regular painting of the bathhouse surface. But the paint must first be completely removed or sanded so that the work is not spoiled. But not all owners manage to produce on time renovation work and paint the bathhouse until it becomes completely dilapidated. Therefore, such users are recommended to use materials that do not require additional finishing.

Most often, vinyl or metal siding, which can also be installed on the log house yourself. This also requires the installation of a frame consisting of metal profiles. The surface of the bathhouse should be treated with protective liquids to prevent fungi and harmful insects from appearing under the casing. And once all the procedures are completed, you can proceed to installation work.

If the log house of the bathhouse is built from timber, then installation of the frame will take place quite quickly. This is due to the fact that the surface of the walls is as smooth as possible and will not require much correction of the plane. And the fastening system itself, which is based on hangers with a perforated surface, allows you to set the profile in any position and quickly fix it using self-tapping screws.

Next, we begin installing the siding itself. For work, use a screwdriver, as it will allow you to quickly fasten the material with self-tapping screws. Whatever the design of the bathhouse, the first cladding details will be the guide elements. They are attached to the edges of the bathhouse, and siding is already inserted into them. Each element must have a slight backlash so that it can expand or contract when temperature changes occur. If this is not done, the lining will become deformed and the bathhouse will lose its appearance.

The ends of the cut siding should be processed with a knife or fine sandpaper so that the edges are smooth and fit freely into the grooves of the guides.

Plastic panels

The use of plastic panels makes it possible to carry out cladding work quite cheaply. This is due to the cost of the material itself, which does not need to be painted or carefully processed. A bathhouse made of plastic looks monolithic and has all the qualities of one covered with siding. Log house in front installation work should be treated with bioprotective liquids.

But you will never need paint for such cladding, which is what makes finishing a bathhouse with this material such an economical option. Panels, like all previous cladding methods, require a frame. Thin wooden slats are perfect for this. But the log house of the bathhouse should be made only of timber.

This design is often not used, but with a budget approach it is offered to the client.

Modern baths: high-quality finishing from floor to ceiling

Since we are talking about the fact that a bathhouse also has the right to its own design, then it’s time to discuss what to cover the outside of the bathhouse with. Why sheathe? Because even lining a bathhouse with bricks will be called cladding in our construction language. Any structural layer that is not rigidly connected to the base of the structure will be sheathing.

Therefore, cladding or cladding on the outside will be the same process when, together with the builders, designers can also conjure up facades, gables and other planes of the building.

How to cover a log bathhouse

So, log house. It is not so important what kind of log the bathhouse is built from - calibrated, rounded or natural. In any case, we have bathhouse facades divided into long horizontal segments. This is exactly how any log walls look from the outside.

You can cover a log bathhouse with the following materials:

— Lining.
— Vinyl siding.
— Fiber cement panels.
— Metal siding.

As well as any other materials that are sufficiently elastic and flexible and do not require rigid attachment to the base over areas. If these are materials that require rigid fastening, then they will be torn off during the first good heating of the log bathhouse.

Some log baths simply need to be sheathed with more “noble” materials.

And so the outer facade “breathes” together with the sauna log house, expanding and shrinking in time with its temperature “movements”.

Covering a log bathhouse with a block house, as some developers do, seems to me the height of Russian sloppiness. For what? It’s like that joke about “business the Russian way” - we’ll sell the stolen vodka and drink the money.

How to cover a timber bathhouse

But here we no longer see such a division into horizontal segments as in the previous version. The timber smoothes out this effect, no matter what it is - ordinary, planed or glued.

And a timber bathhouse can easily be sheathed on the outside with the same block house if you want to achieve a “log-like” effect.

You just need to remember one small detail - the timber, in its area of ​​contact with the sheathing, is several times more “contact” material than a log. That is why external cladding A timber bathhouse is attached to a thinner sheathing than the lining of a log bathhouse.

How to line the outside of a bathhouse made of blocks

As you know, a bathhouse can be built from wood (logs, timber), or from block materials (aerated concrete, silicate blocks, brick, expanded clay concrete blocks, wood concrete, and so on).

This means that a bathhouse made of block materials can, and in some cases even needs to be sheathed on the outside. Aerated concrete and foam concrete require protection from external influences atmosphere - precipitation, sunlight.

Any block materials can be covered on top with decorative lumber (lining, block house), as well as their vinyl and fiber cement substitutes - siding and panels.

In addition, a bathhouse made of blocks can be lined from the outside decorative bricks or any types decorative stone. You just have to know that such a bath will take a very long time to warm up. Therefore, it requires constant heating in winter period. Well, you probably thought about this question at the stage of planning the construction of your bathhouse “institution” and do not need such advice from the pages of a design site.

How to cover a frame bath

In the last three to four years, developers have been increasingly building frame baths. Usually baths are built on wooden frame(despite the fact that houses are often built on a metal frame).

In its properties regarding behavior under the cladding, a frame bathhouse is very similar to a timber bathhouse. In the same way, the rough surfaces of facades frame bath have a large contact area. And in the same way, a frame bathhouse should be sheathed with materials on less spaced sheathing than a log bathhouse.

It makes no sense to cover a frame bathhouse with brick or stone, since in this case the main advantage of the frame structure is lost - low thermal inertia.

If we talk about the sheathing, then in the case of a frame structure, as well as in the case of log and lumber, it will play the role of a kind of ventilation gap. To do this, the sheathing bars should be placed vertically. The ventilation gap will not allow moisture to linger on the surface of the timber and logs, and will also effectively remove moisture from the insulation of the frame bath. A constant “draft” in the ventilation gap will have a beneficial effect on the durability of the entire structure - there will be no dampness, which means there will be no rot.

However, the use of a ventilation gap imposes certain restrictions on the use of insulation in the walls of a frame bath. As you know, it is prohibited to use flammable insulation (foam and its derivatives) in facades with a ventilation gap.

Therefore, in this case, you will have to use non-flammable insulation in the bathhouse - basalt and kaolin wool, expanded vermiculite and similar materials.

Ecowool or expanded clay should not be used in the walls of a frame bath, as these materials absorb moisture well and therefore lose their heat-insulating properties. Moreover, expanded clay is also destroyed by temperature changes in a wet state.

In order for the temperature in the bathhouse to be maintained for as long as possible, and the costs of maintaining it to be as low as possible, bathhouses need external insulation. In addition to solving this problem, external insulation also protects the building from direct contact with cold air and precipitation, which extends the life of the building.

The order and sequence of work on external insulation depends on the type of material used for construction. For bathhouses made of logs - rounded or simply sanded - this usually involves careful sealing of all cracks and cracks: wood of sufficient thickness holds heat well on its own. Sometimes the steam room and washing room are insulated from the inside.

If timber is used during construction, it most likely needs to be insulated, but how depends on its thickness and region (you need to know how severe the winters are). It is imperative to insulate baths built from bricks and building blocks - they have high thermal conductivity and to ensure the necessary temperature regime The wall thickness must be at least 80cm, which is very unprofitable from an economic point of view. That’s why such baths are always insulated.

Almost all insulation of a log bath comes down to carefully sealing the cracks. Even during construction, a special jute insulation was laid between the crowns, but over time the wood dries out, cracks, and new cracks form, which need to be caulked regularly.

Finishing material is attached to the sheathing, which is then coated with varnish or other protective compounds. If you choose metal guides, they are mounted on special hangers.

Insulation on the outside of a log bath is almost never used, and the inside is only sometimes additionally insulated in the steam room and washing room. If you decide to play it safe and insulate the building, if the insulation is afraid of moisture, a vapor or water barrier is laid on top of it. It is secured using strips, onto which the trim is subsequently attached.

Insulation of a bathhouse made of timber from the outside

The insulation of a bathhouse made of timber from the outside is absolutely no different from the insulation of a bathhouse made of logs. The building must also stand, cracks also appear in it, which are sealed in the same way.

The need for external insulation depends on the thickness of the timber. If its thickness is insufficient for your climate zone, insulation will need to be done according to the following scheme:

• lathing made of timber or metal guides (be sure to align them in both horizontal and vertical planes);
• heat insulator (thickness depends on the climate zone, wall thickness, and type of thermal insulation);
• moisture and wind protection;
• counter lathing (not necessary, but between protective film and finishing materials should leave a gap);
• Decoration Materials.

The outside of a bathhouse is usually sheathed from timber: any type of clapboard, edged boards, siding, metal profiles, block house, etc. After completion of work wood trim coated with varnishes for exterior use, sometimes pre-treated with coloring pigments, but many modern compositions They also have a tinting effect, which is, of course, convenient.

If as finishing siding is used, then the presence of a ventilation gap between the insulation and the finishing is mandatory. In this case, it is advisable to use special guides as lathing, which can be purchased in the same place where siding is purchased. The guides are mounted on special hangers.

Insulation of a brick bathhouse from the outside

It is imperative to insulate a brick bathhouse from the outside - this material has high thermal conductivity, so without external insulation it will be extremely difficult to warm the room to the required conditions. The sequence of insulation is the same: frame, insulation, moisture and wind insulation, ventilation gap, sheathing.

For external insulation, it is usually recommended to use mineral wool. According to the latest research, they are not suitable - they emit formaldehyde, and for external insulation - one of best options. You can also insulate a brick bathhouse from the outside with polystyrene foam boards, polystyrene foam (it is cheaper, but polystyrene is more durable), foam glass (its disadvantage is its high price). To ensure high-quality work, it is recommended to lay two layers intercut (offset by half the length) to reduce heat loss by overlapping the seams. But this method takes more time, and it takes twice as much materials for insulation. Therefore, most often, insulation is done in one layer, tightly laying one mat to another, and the joints are taped with reinforced tape.

For plating brick bath outside, you can use wood finishing materials or siding. There is another option for exterior finishing: you can decorate the outside of the bathhouse with plaster. This is possible if polystyrene boards, foam glass or foam plastic were used as insulation. Then a reinforcing mesh is placed on top of this material, a primer is applied, and then the walls are plastered.

Can be insulated brick bathhouse according to the type of ventilated facade. In this case, special L-shaped brackets are attached to the wall (the installation step is 1 cm less than the width of the insulation), between which mats or insulation boards are tightly installed.

For reliability, they can be reinforced with special dowels, but this is not necessary - the material itself must hold quite firmly (that’s why they make the fastening step of the guides 1 cm less than the width of the insulation - it is held in place by elastic force). The joints of the plates are glued with reinforced tape, or treated with special glue, laid on top waterproofing film, secure it with straps. Now guides are installed on the brackets, which support the insulation and at the same time serve as the basis for installing the exterior trim. Using this scheme, you can also insulate baths made of foam blocks, cinder blocks or aerated concrete.

Finishing the outside of a bathhouse made of blocks

Any of the insulation schemes described above can be applied to block baths. In addition, there is another option: to cover such a bathhouse with decorative bricks, but this option of finishing and insulation is possible if the temperature in the bathhouse is maintained above zero at all times.

If you decide to line a bathhouse made of blocks with bricks, you can lay out the second wall not closely, but retreating 5-10 centimeters. In this case thermal insulation characteristics the buildings will be much improved. The gap can be left empty, or it can be filled with thermal insulation material: expanded clay, sawdust that has undergone special treatment, etc.

To prevent moisture from accumulating in the space between the walls, external wall leave small ventilation gaps, and for reliable fixation finishing wall, small pieces of fastening reinforcement are driven into the carrier.

Recently, finishing material such as a block house, which emits a log wall, has become increasingly popular. Block house is made from different materials: PVC (vinyl), metal or wood. lined with a block house, it looks as if it was made of wood.

Block bathhouse covered with a block house

conclusions

A log bathhouse, built in Russian traditions, as a rule, does not require additional insulation of the walls either outside or inside.

When choosing external insulation for a brick or block bathhouse, the choice is very wide. Can be used without harm to health mineral wool made using phenol-formaldehyde resins, which are not recommended for. Styrofoam and polystyrene foam are also suitable.

If you have the financial means, the bathhouse can be covered with a metal block house, which will serve for many years.

In order for the temperature in the bathhouse to be maintained for as long as possible, and the costs of maintaining it to be as low as possible, bathhouses need external insulation. In addition to solving this problem, external insulation also protects the building from direct contact with cold air and precipitation, which extends the life of the building.

The choice of insulation type depends on the material from which the bathhouse is built

The order and sequence of work on external insulation depends on the type of material used for construction. For bathhouses made of logs - rounded or simply sanded - this usually involves careful sealing of all cracks and cracks: wood of sufficient thickness holds heat well on its own. Sometimes the steam room and washing room are insulated from the inside.

If timber is used during construction, it most likely needs to be insulated, but how depends on its thickness and region (you need to know how severe the winters are). It is imperative to insulate baths built from bricks and building blocks - they have high thermal conductivity and to ensure the required temperature conditions, the wall thickness must be at least 80 cm, which is very unprofitable from an economic point of view. That’s why such baths are always insulated.

• 1 How to insulate a log bathhouse from the outside
• 2 Insulation of a bathhouse made of timber from the outside
• 3 Insulation of a brick bathhouse from the outside
• 4 Finishing the outside of a bathhouse made of blocks
• 5 Conclusions

How to insulate a log sauna from the outside

Almost all insulation of a log bath comes down to carefully sealing the cracks. Even during construction, a special jute insulation was laid between the crowns, but over time the wood dries out, cracks, and new cracks form, which need to be caulked regularly.

Insulation of a log bath

After erecting the frame and caulking the cracks, the building must remain under the roof for at least six months. It is advisable not to use the bathhouse during this time. The log house will shrink, the wood will dry out, and new cracks and gaps will appear. These are the ones that need to be caulked. For this purpose, a special insulation based on jute and flax is used. Jute itself conducts heat poorly and does not burn, but its disadvantage is low elasticity (it tears easily). To solve this problem, flax fibers are added to the insulation for log houses. Thin strips of material are driven into the cracks using a hammer and a special metal caulking blade. This must be done carefully to prevent distortion of the structure.

There is also a special sealant for sealing cracks in wooden buildings. It’s easier to work with: a special syringe fills all available voids.

Insulating a log bath using sealant

A log house shrinks within two years. At this time, it is not recommended to cover it with finishing materials. This way you will have access to newly appearing cracks that need to be periodically sealed from the inside and outside. To protect the insulation from the effects of precipitation, the outside of the building can be covered with film, securing it with strips.

Two years after construction, you can begin finishing. For many this will sound ridiculous, but structures made of logs can be sheathed with a block house, clapboard, imitation timber, or dies. To begin with, a sheathing is mounted on the wall (if it is made of wood, it must be treated with antibacterial impregnations and increases resistance to fire), which is checked for verticality and horizontality using a building level.

Lathing for insulation and finishing

Finishing material is attached to the sheathing, which is then coated with varnish or other protective compounds. If you choose metal guides, they are mounted on special hangers.

Insulation on the outside of a log bath is almost never used, and the inside is only sometimes additionally insulated in the steam room and washing room. If you decide to play it safe and insulate the building, if the insulation is afraid of moisture, a vapor or water barrier is laid on top of it. It is secured using strips, onto which the trim is subsequently attached.

Insulation of a bathhouse made of timber from the outside

The insulation of a bathhouse made of timber from the outside is absolutely no different from the insulation of a bathhouse made of logs. The building must also stand, cracks also appear in it, which are sealed in the same way.

Insulation of a bathhouse made of timber

The need for external insulation depends on the thickness of the timber. If its thickness is insufficient for your climate zone, insulation will need to be done according to the following scheme:

• lathing made of timber or metal guides (be sure to align them in both horizontal and vertical planes);
• heat insulator (thickness depends on the climate zone, wall thickness, and type of thermal insulation);
• moisture and wind protection;
• counter lathing (not necessary, but there should be a gap between the protective film and finishing materials);
• Decoration Materials.

Insulating the bathhouse from the outside

The outside of a bathhouse is usually sheathed from timber: any type of clapboard, edged boards, siding, metal profiles, block house, etc. After completion of the work, the wooden finish is coated with varnishes for exterior use, sometimes pre-treated with coloring pigments, but many modern compositions also have a tinting effect, which, of course, is convenient.

If siding is used as a finishing material, then the presence of a ventilation gap between the insulation and the finishing is mandatory. In this case, it is advisable to use special guides as lathing, which can be purchased in the same place where siding is purchased. The guides are mounted on special hangers.

Metal siding guides are mounted on special hangers

Insulation of a brick bathhouse from the outside

It is imperative to insulate a brick bathhouse from the outside - this material has high thermal conductivity, so without external insulation it will be extremely difficult to warm the room to the required conditions. The sequence of insulation is the same: frame, insulation, moisture and wind insulation, ventilation gap, sheathing.

Insulation scheme for a brick bath

For external insulation, it is usually recommended to use mineral wool. For internal insulation According to recent studies, they are not suitable for baths - they emit formaldehyde, but for external insulation they are one of the best options. You can also insulate a brick bathhouse from the outside with polystyrene foam boards, polystyrene foam (it is cheaper, but polystyrene is more durable), foam glass (its disadvantage is its high price). To ensure high-quality work, it is recommended to lay two layers intercut (offset by half the length) to reduce heat loss by overlapping the seams. But this method takes more time, and it takes twice as much materials for insulation. Therefore, most often, insulation is done in one layer, tightly laying one mat to another, and the joints are taped with reinforced tape.

Fabric-reinforced PVC tape (Forsace)

To cover the outside of a brick bathhouse, you can use wooden finishing materials or siding. There is another option for exterior finishing: you can decorate the outside of the bathhouse with plaster. This is possible if polystyrene boards, foam glass or foam plastic were used as insulation. Then a reinforcing mesh is placed on top of this material, a primer is applied, and then the walls are plastered.

Scheme of insulation of a brick bath and finishing with plaster

You can insulate a brick bathhouse using the type of ventilated facade. In this case, special L-shaped brackets are attached to the wall (the installation step is 1 cm less than the width of the insulation), between which mats or insulation boards are tightly installed.

Insulation scheme for a brick bathhouse based on the principle of a ventilated facade

For reliability, they can be reinforced with special dowels, but this is not necessary - the material itself must hold quite firmly (that’s why they make the fastening step of the guides 1 cm less than the width of the insulation - it is held in place by elastic force). The joints of the slabs are glued with reinforced tape, or treated with special glue, a waterproofing film is laid on top, and secured with strips. Now guides are installed on the brackets, which support the insulation and at the same time serve as the basis for installing the exterior trim. Using this scheme, you can also insulate baths made of foam blocks, cinder blocks or aerated concrete.

Finishing the outside of a bathhouse made of blocks

Any of the insulation schemes described above can be applied to block baths. In addition, there is another option: to cover such a bathhouse with decorative bricks, but this option of finishing and insulation is possible if the temperature in the bathhouse is maintained above zero at all times.

Exterior decoration baths with decorative bricks

If you decide to line a bathhouse made of blocks with bricks, you can lay out the second wall not closely, but retreating 5-10 centimeters. In this case, the thermal insulation characteristics of the building will be much improved. The gap can be left empty, or it can be filled with thermal insulation material: expanded clay, sawdust that has undergone special treatment, etc.

Insulation scheme for aerated concrete baths

To prevent moisture from accumulating in the space between the walls, small ventilation gaps are left in the outer wall, and to securely fix the finishing wall, small pieces of fastening reinforcement are driven into the load-bearing wall.

Recently, finishing material such as a block house, which emits a log wall, has become increasingly popular. Block houses are made from different materials: PVC (vinyl), metal or wood. A bathhouse made of blocks, lined with a block house, looks as if it is made of wood.

Block bathhouse covered with a block house

conclusions

A log bathhouse, built in Russian traditions, as a rule, does not require additional insulation of the walls either outside or inside.

When choosing external insulation for a brick or block bathhouse, the choice is very wide. Without harming your health, you can use mineral wool made using phenol-formaldehyde resins, which is not recommended for insulating the inside of a bathhouse. Styrofoam and polystyrene foam are also suitable.

If you have the financial means, the bathhouse can be covered with a metal block house, which will serve for many years.