Many amateur gardeners neglect the pre-planting treatment of potato tubers, planting them from the cellar or basement directly into the ground. And they are not at all interested in the fact that correctly preparing potatoes for planting is a priori an increase of at least 20% to the future harvest.

Anyone who believes that preplanting preparation of tubers is carried out only in the spring, immediately before planting open ground, are mistaken in many ways. Experienced gardeners begin this preparation even before storing tubers for winter storage.

Pre-planting preparation includes several important steps:

• landscaping;
• calibration;
• germination;
• disinfection;
• growth stimulation.

It cannot be said that all of them are strictly necessary, but each of them is capable of giving a yield increase of 5-15%.

Greening potato tubers

Preparing tubers for planting should begin in the fall, almost immediately after harvesting. When sorting potatoes, seeds intended for future planting are selected, discarding deformed and damaged tubers.

Then the selected seed tubers are placed in one layer under a canopy or tree crown, and kept there for 10-15 days, regularly, once every 3-4 days, turning them over. You should not place the tubers in direct sunlight: the hot sun can harm them, but diffused daylight is enough for landscaping.

Under its influence, the tubers change their color and become dull green. The culprit of these changes is solanine, a poison that in large doses is dangerous even to humans. It is clear that greened tubers should not be used as food for yourself or as animal feed, but this procedure will destroy most of the harmful fungi and bacteria located on the peel. And small rodents do not like green tubers.

This procedure, which many gardeners treat with disdain, allows not only to plant healthy seed material.

It has long been noted that when planted with green tubers, seedlings appear earlier and emerge from the ground more quickly, which contributes to an increase in yield. Therefore, if gardening was not carried out in the fall, it is better to take care and choose a method of germinating potatoes in which it could also become green at the same time.

Tuber sizing

This is also an important step to ensure uniform planting of potatoes. Tubers weighing from 40 to 80 grams are usually left for seeds. It is clear that an 80 g tuber will have more sprouts than a 40 g tuber.

If you plant them interspersed, then in some areas of the garden there will be more sprouts than in others. To avoid this, tubers are calibrated by their size. They are usually divided into two types: large (weighing from 60 to 80 g), and small (weighing from 40 to 60 g). For greater uniformity, I divide them into 3 types: small (40-55 g), medium (55-55 g). 70 g) and large (70-80 g).

Calibration can be carried out both in the fall, before storing tubers for storage, and in the spring. It’s more convenient for me to do this in the spring - there is almost no work in the garden, and besides, during the winter, rot that was not noticed in the fall appears on some tubers, and it is clearly noticeable in the spring.

Germination of tubers

For many years, germination has been considered the most effective way preparing potato tubers for planting. It allows not only to significantly accelerate the emergence of potato seedlings, but also to improve their growth vigor. As a result, you can get an earlier and more generous harvest.

There are two methods of germination:

• dry;
• wet.

Dry germination is more familiar to us, but also takes longer. Depending on the temperature in the room, it can last from 20 to 40 days. You can germinate tubers in this way either on pallets, laying them out in one row, or in small nets or transparent plastic bags.

The main condition for successful germination of tubers is compliance temperature regime. In the first 10 days after laying the potatoes for germination, the room temperature should be maintained at 18-20°, then until the end of the germination procedure it should be maintained in the range from 10 to 14°.

Also, during dry germination, it is advisable to provide a sufficient amount of light in the room, especially if the tubers were not previously greened in the fall. In this case, this stage of pre-landing preparation will be performed automatically.

When germinating in trays (in small boxes or directly on the floor), the tubers are laid out in one row, periodically turning them over every 3-4 days so that they warm up evenly and turn green. When using nets for germination, tubers are placed in them in groups of 10-15, and hung on the wall so that they are not exposed to direct sunlight. The grids are rotated periodically so that the potatoes are illuminated evenly.

The same is done when germinating tubers in plastic bags. This method allows you to speed up germination by 1.5-2 weeks. But this method also has its own peculiarity - in plastic bags you must make 5-6 small holes for oxygen access.

During wet germination, the tubers are placed in a substrate of sawdust, peat or humus, keeping it moist all the time. The tubers are germinated using the wet method in a dark room at a temperature of 12-15°.

The advantage of the wet method is that the tubers, being in a humid environment, completely retain liquid and substances useful for future sprouts.

At the end of wet germination, the tubers form not only sprouts, but also numerous branched roots, so the planted tubers take root faster and begin to grow.

If you need to simultaneously green the tubers and acquire a developed root system, combine dry and wet methods. First, the tubers are germinated dry for 20-25 days, greening them, and then they are placed in a moist substrate for a week and a half, rooting the sprouts that appear on the tubers.

Drying and warming up tubers

If you need to germinate potato tubers in the shortest possible time, drying is used. To do this, the tubers are laid out in one layer in boxes or on the floor in a room with a temperature of 16-20 ° C, and kept at this temperature until sprouts appear on them. This usually takes from 7 to 20 days, depending on the temperature maintained.

With this method of germination, the tubers lose from ¼ to ½ of their liquid, but they gain significantly in time. In addition, this method additionally allows the tubers to be greened if you use not only a warm, but also a bright room for drying.

If the time for pre-planting preparation of tubers is sorely lacking, then heating is used. This method allows you to prepare potatoes for planting in just 3 days.

To do this, potato tubers raised from a cold cellar or basement are placed in a room with a temperature of 12-15° for 4-6 hours, and then it rises to 20-22°. You can raise the room temperature higher - up to 25°, but in this case the taste of the tubers of the new harvest may deteriorate. So it's not worth the risk. Raised tubers are dormant, and a sudden change in temperature can negatively affect future yields. Therefore, the temperature in the room should not be raised immediately, but gradually - by 1-2° every 2 hours. If this condition is met, warming up will take place quickly and efficiently.

Disinfection of tubers

An important preparatory stage that allows potato tubers to get rid of harmful fungi and bacteria remaining on their surface. Most often, disinfection is carried out after germination, 2-3 days before planting tubers, although options for disinfecting tubers before germination are possible.

To disinfect seed potatoes, they are treated with special solutions. These can be aqueous solutions:

• potassium permanganate (1 g per 10 l);
• boric acid (50 g per 10 l);
• copper sulfate(10 g per 10 l);
• zinc sulfate (10 g per 10 l);
• solution of 40% formaldehyde (30 g per 10 l).

It is enough to hold the tubers for 25-30 minutes seed potatoes in such a solution to thoroughly disinfect it. The only exception is a formaldehyde solution, in which the tubers need to be kept for no more than 10-15 minutes. Then the disinfected tubers are dried and sent for germination.

There are now many special potato disinfectants on the market that not only effectively kill fungi and bacteria, but also protect tubers and young shoots from pests: the Colorado potato beetle, wireworms, etc. The most famous of them: Prestige, Matador, Commander, Fungazil, Vitax, Masterpiece.

You can not only soak potatoes in such solutions, but also spray the sprouted tubers with them immediately before planting. But in both cases, precautions must be taken when working with disinfectants.

For those who completely refuse to treat their potatoes with chemicals, aqueous extracts of certain plants, such as onions, garlic, bird cherry or radish, can be used to disinfect them. The only difference is that the tubers will have to be kept in such solutions for 8 to 12 hours.

Stimulation of growth

To accelerate the development and growth of young plants and, as a result, increase productivity, special growth stimulants are used. The most popular of these stimulants among gardeners is Poteytin; Epin and Bioglobin are also used for this.

Treating tubers with these preparations before planting allows you to increase the “stress resistance” of potato plantings to the vagaries of the weather (cold temperatures, up to short-term frosts down to minus 5°, or prolonged drought).

Also, the treatment promotes earlier (by 5-6 days) emergence of seedlings, faster and more luxuriant growth of bushes, and even, to a certain extent, increased field resistance against pests and diseases. Treatment of tubers with growth stimulants helps increase yield by 15-25%.

But, in my opinion, this is the most controversial stage of pre-planting preparation of tubers. In theory, treating tubers with growth stimulants should accelerate the development of young plants and give an increase in yield. But, if you consistently carry out all the stages of pre-planting preparation, and in the fall you harvest a potato crop of 4-5 quintals per hundred, then it is impossible to say unequivocally what kind of increase the treatment with growth stimulants gave.

For the experiment, I planted both Poteytin-treated and untreated potatoes in one area. For the purity of the experiment, I took one variety - Slavyanka, and planted it mixed, alternating 2 rows of potatoes treated with the stimulant and not treated.

All other preparatory stages of tubers were performed in the same way. In the fall, I did not notice much difference in the yield between the stimulant-treated and untreated rows of potatoes.

But he did not refuse to treat the tubers with stimulants, acting on the principle: “you can’t spoil the porridge with oil.” The year in which I conducted the experiment turned out to be favorable for potatoes - no frost, moderately warm and rainy. Perhaps with unfavorable conditions the difference in yield would be more noticeable.

The overwhelming majority of Russian regions, as well as almost the entire territory of Ukraine and Belarus, are located in the zone of risky farming. In practice this means that without special troubles, acting on the principle: the main thing is to plant it in the ground, and then, God willing, it is impossible to get high yields of potatoes.

Therefore, the correct and timely implementation of all stages of pre-planting preparation of potato tubers, although not a panacea for all ills, will be a reliable foundation for obtaining consistently high yields.

Many gardeners who grow on their own personal plot indispensable for every person's diet vegetable crops Of course, the question is: how to prepare potatoes for planting? After all, in such an important matter there are no trifles - it is necessary to prepare the tubers for planting in the ground in a timely manner, having gone through all required steps preparing them for further growth and development, so that later they can get a rich harvest of their favorite root crop.

When should you start preparing tubers for planting in the soil? Before this, about a month before landing seed material in the ground, you need to lay out the tubers for germination. Over a long period of time, they are capable of losing a lot of energy and strength necessary to germinate. In order to carry out germination correctly, the seeds should be checked for the presence of unwanted diseases. In order for the tubers to wake up, they should be placed for several days in a room where the temperature will be about 20 - 22 degrees, and later they need to be moved to a cooler place (about 10 - 14 degrees).

An important condition is the presence of sufficient light in the room. If the sprouts after this are more than 5 cm, they need to be broken off, and new ones will certainly appear in their place. Immediately before planting in the soil, the tubers should acquire a dark green color. If your tubers are too large, you can cut them in half before planting in the ground. There should be sprouts on both halves of the tubers.

Also, before planting potatoes in the soil, the tubers need to be treated using special modern preparations for this purpose to protect vegetable crops from bacterial and fungal infections - such as "Maxim", Bordeaux mixture, copper oxychloride. This is done correctly this way - the tubers should be soaked for half an hour the day before planting them in the soil in the chosen product, placed in a container, strictly following the instructions. Germinating tubers today is much more effective than growing planting material from seeds.

What is it for

Many novice gardeners wonder: is the process of preparing seed material for planting in the soil really so important? Experts and summer residents with experience unanimously say that preparing potatoes for the upcoming spring planting need to. Because, provided that the preparation is carried out correctly and on time, the necessary biological mechanism is launched in the tubers, which is directly related to the formation of viable sprouts in the future and the excellent development of the root system of the vegetable crop.

This preparatory program provides a unique opportunity, after planting in the ground, to expect earlier seedlings to appear than if you use unprepared material for these purposes. Also on It is possible to select bad tubers - sick, damaged, etc. - which are best not used for planting if you want to get a high-quality and rich harvest. Also in the process, you can reject those potatoes on which rot is visually visible, the eyes have not woken up, or the sprouts have formed too weak. Thus, only the good and full of strength are selected planting material.

Program

When choosing a method for preparing potato tubers for planting in the soil, you must proceed from your capabilities and conditions - for example, if the planting material was purchased late, then it is not possible to germinate it, since there simply will not be enough time left for this.

Video “Preparing for landing”

Germination

Sprouting has been considered the most effective method for many years. This classic way makes it possible to obtain strong, viable sprouts, which will make excellent potatoes. Depending on the conditions offered to the tubers, there is dry and wet germination. Drying is carried out in the range from 20 to 40 days in the presence of sufficient light and a certain temperature. At the same time, the color of the sprouts can be different, which largely depends on the type of potato. In the presence of light in the required doses, the tubers of planting potatoes become green, which is very important for them to acquire stable immunity against a number of diseases. To ensure uniform illumination, the tubers should be laid out in a single layer in boxes. It is permissible to use nets or transparent polyethylene bags, but it is necessary to make holes in them for oxygen access. The temperature in the first week and a half should be about 18 - 20 degrees, after which it can be reduced to 10 - 14.

When germinating tubers wet, before planting them in the soil, you need to pour sawdust, peat or humus into the placement boxes. Such containers must be kept in dark room, maintaining the temperature there at about 12 - 15 degrees. At the same time, tubers in a moist substrate can form not only sprouts, but also a strong root system, while they will lose less liquid and substances beneficial to the plant. Combined germination is also used - combining dry and wet methods. To do this, the tubers are first germinated in the light for about three weeks, after which they are placed in a moist substrate for another week and a half so that the sprouts that appear after the first stage can form high-quality roots.

Drying

This method is usually used to awaken the eyes of potatoes and make the process of sprouting as fast as possible. In order to carry out drying, you will need heat with a temperature above 16 degrees. Although the presence of light is not necessary, nevertheless, with it, planting material is able to acquire stable immunity to various kinds ailments that beset vegetable crops at every turn. Drying is well suited when it is necessary to germinate potatoes as quickly as possible. To do this, the potatoes are laid out in one layer and kept warm until the beginnings of the first sprouts appear - most often this takes from one to several weeks. In this case, the planting material is capable of losing a certain amount of liquid, but it gains enzymes that will help it quickly awaken the eyes and accelerate the growth of vegetable shoots.

Warming up

Great way to get good harvest is a well-known seedling. To do this, place a layer of sawdust in the boxes, after which the tubers are laid out, covered with another layer of sawdust (no more than three cm) on top, and watered regularly.

Instead of sawdust, it is quite acceptable to take peat or vermiculite. But if the seedlings are planted together with ordinary tubers, the sprouts may be in danger of dying from the first frost. That's why seedling method It is customary to use it infrequently, only to obtain an early potato harvest. During frosts, fragile shoots must be covered with dense non-woven material. For growing seedlings, it is recommended to take only those potato varieties that have an early ripening period.

Sometimes potato tubers can begin to sprout on their own. At the same time, you should not allow the appearance of too large sprouts, since they not only take away a lot of the necessary vitality from the planting material, but are also capable of breaking during planting. You can simply break out such untimely sprouts, this way you will delay the germination of potatoes for the right time. You can also use unexpectedly grown shoots as seedlings. Because when a sprout reaches 4 to 6 cm in length, it already has the makings of its own roots.

This allows you to separate it from the tuber and carry out wet germination in previously prepared peat, soil mixture, even sawdust is suitable for these purposes. The sprout will need to be placed in a container about two-thirds full. The tubers that remain will be able to sprout again over time, and we will also get excellent planting material from the seedlings. This option experienced gardeners They are also used if there are not enough planting tubers.

Since our people are very resourceful, in the absence of the required amount of material for planting - we are talking about tubers, not seeds - experienced gardeners sometimes use cut tops of potatoes. For five days they must be kept at room temperature, during which the cut site is dried, which prevents the planted root crop from rotting and reduces the risk of diseases. On the sixth day, the pieces are placed in thin layers in prepared boxes and covered with sand or earth.

Video “How to prepare soil and tubers”

If you don’t know how to properly prepare the soil and potato tubers for planting, this video is for you.

Potatoes are unpretentious, but to speed up germination and increase yield, there are a number of methods for pre-planting preparation of tubers. Obtaining a high yield depends on the correct placement of seed material. Specialized stores and nurseries sell certified potatoes that are free of diseases and protected from pests. But, knowing the intricacies of plant development, even a novice gardener will be able to independently prepare seed material. To do this, you need to observe the deadlines for harvesting tubers and follow the rules for preparing them for planting.

Procurement of seed potatoes: principles and stages of the procedure

Potatoes reproduce by tubers, so the next year's harvest depends on their quality selection. There are three stages of preparing planting material:

1. Selection of tubers.
2. Sorting and sizing.
3. Preparation for laying for the winter.

At every stage there is important nuances, which will help preserve seed potatoes (the so-called tubers used only for planting) until spring and, together with spring techniques, obtain a consistently high yield.

Tuber selection

For propagation, potatoes are dug up in the summer, choosing productive bushes. The tubers must be large, smooth, have a characteristic shape and color for the variety, without mechanical damage and not affected by disease. This technique will increase the yield by at least 15%.

You cannot plant irregularly shaped or underdeveloped tubers. This will lead to uneven germination, misgrading and reduced yield.

Sorting based on sizing

The size of the tubers is important when planning the timing of harvest, so the selected material must be sorted into small, medium and large specimens. They must also be planted in groups:

• large ones from 70 to 100 g will give an early harvest;
• average from 50 to 80 g are optimal for planting;
• small ones from 30 to 50 g are used only when there is a shortage of planting material; the bush takes a long time to develop, so the harvest will be late.

How to prepare potatoes for winter storage

The first pre-planting treatment of tubers - greening - increases the yield by up to 20%, prevents damage by rodents and diseases during storage. This occurs due to an increase in the content of solanine in the tubers.

Solanine is a poisonous alkaloid found in nightshades: unripe tomatoes, eggplants, peppers and green potato tubers. It causes gastrointestinal disorders and neurological pathologies, so green tubers cannot be eaten and fed to livestock.

Greening occurs under the influence of sunlight. To ensure that the process occurs evenly, the tubers are laid out in a layer of no more than three pieces in boxes or on the floor. After 10 days, the surface of the potato will begin to acquire green tint. The process can take up to three weeks. Prepared planting material can be stored in storage only when all the pulp becomes greenish after cutting. In the spring, harvested seed potatoes are sorted out, damaged tubers are removed and prepared for planting.

Spring preparation of potatoes for planting

As in the fall, in the spring, before starting to prepare the tubers, it is necessary to sort: discard dry, rotten, diseased and tubers with black sprouts. Remove the thin hair-like roots from the remaining ones. If the tubers were not calibrated in the fall, this must be done in the spring, then carry out manipulations that accelerate the appearance of thick short sprouts. To improve germination and formation of tubers (especially for early varieties) gardeners and farmers carry out pre-planting preparation procedures aimed at activating metabolic processes and awakening growth points.

Drying

This method is practiced if the potatoes have overwintered in specialized storage facilities and by spring the tubers have not yet emerged from their dormant state. They are taken out into the fresh air, spread under a canopy (to protect from precipitation) with a layer of no more than three potatoes and kept for two to four weeks. If there is a danger of frost, they should be covered with straw, matting or film at night. During this time, the tubers lose some of their moisture, enzymatic processes intensify in them, and the eyes awaken, but the sprouts do not yet have time to grow. This method is suitable for farmers because it allows planting using machinery.

Warming up the tubers

This technique is used for early varieties, since it allows seedlings to emerge a week earlier and makes them resistant to drought. Potatoes are placed in boxes and placed in a heated room. At a temperature of +27 °C the exposure is 6 days, and at a temperature of +35 °C 3 days are sufficient. Fermentation proceeds at an accelerated pace, the movement of nutrients activates shoot growth.

Vernalization of potatoes

The process is aimed at the appearance of strong shoots, ready to form full-fledged seedlings. Potatoes are laid out for vernalization in the same way as for drying. But with this method, the temperature regime is important:

1. The first stage of sprouting takes place at +12 – +15 °C.
2. The second stage is hardening. For 2 days the temperature is reduced to +6 – +8 °C.
3. Third stage - active growth at +15 – +20 °C.

To prevent the tubers from withering, they must be regularly sprayed with water. In this case, the room must be ventilated, otherwise the tubers will rot instead of sprouting.

Such a change in temperature with mandatory good lighting activates the growth of eyes and the formation of sprouts with root primordia.

Germination in a humid environment

The final stage of pre-planting preparation. You can do it yourself or combine it with one of the previous methods. Principle:

1. Pour a 5 cm layer of sawdust or shavings into the boxes.
2. Arrange the potatoes in one layer.
3. Sprinkle with sawdust in a 5 cm layer.
4. Water warm water+15 – 18 °C.
5. Place the boxes in a dark, ventilated place with a temperature of +12 °C to +20 °C and a humidity of about 70%.

The process is considered complete if thick shoots have appeared, the roots on them have reached a length of two to three centimeters. This will happen in two weeks. If the weather does not allow planting sprouted tubers, then you can stop further growth of the roots by lowering the temperature to +5 °C or watering them with cold water.

The roots should not be allowed to grow, otherwise they will break off and the rooting process will slow down.

Watering should be dosed so as not to over-wet the tubers. It is also dangerous to get hit cold water on sprouts - this will lead to death or rotting of the roots. During germination, the emerging seedlings must be shaded, so nutrients will be spent on the formation of roots, and not on the growth of green mass. Such tubers will take root faster and sprout 4–5 days earlier than those grown when exposed to light.

Auxiliary techniques and timing of pre-planting preparation

Sprouting tubers guarantees excellent germination, but there are techniques that will provide protection from pests and diseases, and also help increase the amount of planting material without compromising quality. The timing of pre-planting preparation depends on the method you choose. It is advisable to start preparing seed potatoes a month before planting the tubers in the ground: warm them up, carry out vernalization, if necessary, divide the tubers into parts, and immediately before planting, treat them with insecticides, fungicides and growth regulators.

Soak

The nightshade family, which includes potatoes, is susceptible to diseases: late blight, scab, and bacteriosis. This reduces the yield, worsens the taste of root crops and increases the amount of losses during storage. This can be prevented by pre-planting treatment of the tubers.

It is not always possible to identify infected tubers by manual sorting. Up to 90% of diseased and damaged specimens can be rejected by soaking in saline solutions. In a 22% urea (carbamide) solution, all defective tubers will float, and healthy ones will sink to the bottom.

Treatment with disinfectants

In addition to diseases, potatoes are affected by pests: wireworms and beetles (May, Colorado). For protection and prevention, specialized drugs with active ingredients are used: imidacloprid, thiabendazole, fludioxonil and others. They are distinguished by the degree of impact:

• only from pests (Matador, Contador);
• from pests and diseases (Masterpiece);
• from pests, diseases plus growth stimulator (Prestige, Celeste Top).

Etching consists of spraying with a solution according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. Some preparations contain a dye, which makes it easier to control the processing.

Treatment with nutrient solutions

Mineral solutions and fertilizer growth regulators stimulate the formation of roots, seedlings and increase yield. The process of preparing the solution is described on the packaging. The instructions must be strictly followed! Excess minerals just as harmful as a deficiency. You can soak both unsprouted and prepared tubers.

Table: treatment with mineral fertilizers and growth regulators

Preparations and method of preparing the solution	Processing method	Result
400 g each ammonium nitrate and dissolve superphosphate in 10 liters of water	On the day of planting, soak the tubers for 1 hour. After this, dry and powder with wood ash.	Improved survival rate and increased yield
succinic acid	Treat with 0.002 - 0.005% solution the day before planting	Awakening of eyes throughout the tuber, and not just in the apical part, increased number of stems
Zircon, Epin-extra, Ecogel and similar growth regulators	Treatment on the day of planting	Increasing the number of roots and accelerating the formation of sprouts
Nitroammophoska 10 or 20%	Soak in a 10% solution for 1 hour or spray before planting with a 20% solution	The effect is manifested in a greater production of young tubers
40 g each of superphosphate, potassium salt and nitrogen fertilizers dissolve in 10 liters of water	Sprouted tubers are sprayed a day before, and non-sprouted tubers are sprayed two days before planting.	Increased yield

Slicing: methods and rules

Farmers and gardeners use two types of cutting: ring cutting and division into shares. The second method is used when there is a shortage of planting material. The purpose of slicing is to stimulate bud germination. The procedure must be carried out with a clean knife and periodically processed disinfectant solution. Tubers should be cut no earlier than two weeks before planting. During this time, the cut will be covered with a protective crust, which will prevent the slices from rotting in the soil.

Before cutting, the tubers must be heated to bring them out of dormancy. Then treat with growth regulators.

Cutting into pieces

Depending on the size, the tubers are cut into two, three or four parts. The procedure for dividing a tuber into shares:

• In two parts. One longitudinal incision is made from the point of attachment to the bush to the top.
• For three beats. The lower part of the tuber is cut off, and the remaining part is divided in half lengthwise.
• For four beats. The tuber, divided into two parts, is cut in half. The second option is to separate the tops and cut the middle in half.

After dividing, it is necessary to sort the shares by type and plant each one separately, so the shoots will be simultaneous.

Video: dividing a tuber into shares

Circular cut

This procedure must be performed before the kidneys awaken, about a month and a half before planting. The goal is to stimulate as many kidneys as possible to awaken. A circular cut is made across the tuber to a depth of no more than 15 mm, cutting through the outer part. This way you can increase the yield by a third or even half.

Potatoes can be grown in any way: traditional hole, progressive Dutch, in barrels, under straw, but preparation of planting material is required for any of them. Planting potatoes that have not undergone pre-planting treatment reduces yield and increases the risk of disease infection and pest damage.

- the most important vegetable in the garden. Gardeners diligently grow crops so that it will depend on whether the family will be left with a harvest for the winter or not. There are many ways to grow valuable potatoes. The process of preparing planting material and planting depends on the region and plant variety. Therefore, you need to approach growing technology adequately, according to the climatic zone and soil type. The potato variety is also selected based on these factors. The gardener will learn about all the nuances of preparation, planting and cultivation from this useful material.

To successfully select a variety, the gardener must take into account the ripening time of the tubers, region and soil type. The first criterion is considered one of the most important. The average ripening time for a potato fruit is 80-90 days. Despite the fact that many varieties claim a shorter period, the plant will need at least 80 days to develop - this has already been verified by experienced potato growers.

Based on climatic conditions, the potato variety is selected. Highlight:

• Early ripening – ripening time is up to 80 days
• Mid-season – ripening time up to 100 days
• Late ripening – ripening time up to 140 days

Early-ripening potatoes are preferred by those who like to taste fresh potatoes in the summer rather than in the fall. For vegetables in winter, it is recommended to grow late-ripening varieties. In Siberian conditions, for example, it is inappropriate to plant late species, since they simply do not have time to ripen. Summer in these regions is short and cold weather comes early.

Therefore, consider the location in which you are going to grow potatoes.

To grow crops on a personal plot, you should choose table varieties, not fodder or industrial varieties. Depending on the type of soil, the following are distinguished: the best varieties potatoes:

• "Luck" is early ripening variety, the yield of which reaches 800 kg per hundred square meters. The tuber pulp is white, the taste is average. The variety is resistant to many potatoes - late blight, rot, mosaic virus. Suitable for all types of soil.
• "Zhukovsky" is an early ripening variety suitable for all types of soil. The tubers are pink with white pulp, the taste is good. From 100 m? harvest up to 500 kg. Resistant to disease and drought.
• "Romano" – mid-season variety, capable of growing in any soil. The tubers are pinkish, the flesh is white. Potato yield reaches 350 kg per hundred square meters. Resistant to diseases and... Reacts poorly to drought. Stores well in winter.
• "Bezhitsky" is a mid-season variety that loves light soils. The tubers are red, the pulp is white, the taste is good. The yield per hundred square meters is up to 500 kg. Tolerates drought well and is disease resistant. Stores well in winter.

• "Lugovskoy" is a mid-season variety, the yield of which is up to 500 kg per hundred square meters. The tubers are pinkish in color with white flesh. Resistant to diseases and pests. Stores well in winter.
• "Belarusian 3" – late-ripening variety with excellent taste. The tuber is white, smooth. Productivity per 100 m? reaches 600 kg. Excellent storage in winter. Resistant to diseases.
• "Aspia" is a mid-season variety, suitable for growing in loamy soils. Productivity reaches 450 kg per hundred square meters. The tubers are white, the taste is good. Excellent storage in winter.
• "Latona" is an early ripening variety that gives a good harvest in fertile soil up to 600 kg per 100 m?. The tuber is yellowish, the flesh is light yellow. Resistant to many diseases. Excellent storage in winter.
• "Nevsky" is an early ripening variety that takes root well in any region and soil. Potato yield is up to 500 kg per 100 m?. The tubers are white, the taste is good. The variety is resistant to many diseases characteristic of potatoes. Excellent storage in winter. "Nevsky" is considered one of the most popular varieties, it adapts to any soil and always gives bountiful harvest.

Every gardener has his favorite variety of vegetable and never parts with it. However, plant types should be changed every 5-6 years. By planting the same variety, a gardener runs the risk of one day getting an unusable crop that will be poorly stored and will quickly rot. This means it’s time to change the planting material to new ones and remove the old ones.

Preparing tubers for planting: germination methods

By preparing tubers for planting we mean them. Why is this being done? If you simply take the seed material out of the basement and scatter it over the holes, the development of the plant will take three weeks longer than with preparation. In some regions of the country this is an unaffordable luxury. Nobody wants to waste almost a month of precious time. Therefore, it is more advisable to prepare seed material and harvest on time.

There are several methods for preparing potatoes. There are three most effective and common methods:

• "Light". It is considered simple and effective method germination of sprouts on a tuber. The seed material is removed from the basement to a bright and warm place. Lays out in one layer. The room temperature should be 20°-22°. Potatoes should be well illuminated by natural sunlight, but do not place them in the hot sun. When laying out the material, sort out the ugly and diseased tubers. Nothing will grow out of them anyway. begins to germinate in about 10-15 days. Take this into account when planning to plant vegetables in open ground.
• "Greenhouse". This germination method involves the use of plastic bags. Small holes are made in them for ventilation. The bags are filled with seed material to about a third of the bag. The polyethylene is covered and hung in a bright, warm place. The bag produces a greenhouse effect and the tubers germinate quickly. It will take 10 days to prepare in this way. In the same bags you can transport potatoes to your personal plot.
• "Watering". This method is considered the most unusual, but effective. It is designed for those who do not have the time or ability to wait several weeks for material. The day before planting, the seed material is filled with water. One day the potatoes lie in the rain, warm water. Then start planting. This way the material will grow faster in the soil; the process will only take a couple of weeks for the sprouts to ripen in the soil.

Many gardeners cut large tubers before planting. This good way increase the number seed material. But you need to do it right. After cutting the tuber, sprinkle the cuts with ash. The cut potatoes should stand in the fresh air for one or two days. Only then can it be planted in open ground.

Try to cut the tubers so that there are eyes on both halves.

Don't forget about potato planting standards. Small seed material, potatoes weighing less than 30 g, will give a poor harvest. Select medium-sized tubers - from 30 g to 80 g. Large, cut material produces a bountiful harvest than small “peas”. They are rejected. The seed material is ready, sprouts have already formed on it - it’s time to select a site and planting.

Potatoes are unpretentious to soil. It can successfully grow both in black soil and in loamy, sandy soil. Almost all varieties of vegetables respond well to humus, minerals and complexes. Try to choose flat, well-lit areas for potatoes. They should not be shaded by trees or houses.

If the surface of the site is uneven and there is a risk of water accumulation between the rows, ensure good drainage.

Fertilize the soil in advance. The potato field should be plowed and removed. Many gardeners add water to each hole or trench. wood ash– the measure prevents the occurrence of tuber diseases and promotes their rapid growth.

An important point when planting a vegetable is not only soil preparation, but also good choice landing dates. The yield and quality of potatoes will depend on this.

Rules and methods for planting potatoes

Planting dates depend on the region and the selected variety. But there is one common natural landmark that signals landing - this is and. As soon as the birch leaves have turned green and the bird cherry has bloomed, tubers can be planted. Experienced gardeners They usually wait a couple of weeks after the birch leaves have blossomed.

Why birch? The fact is that it turns green only when the soil warms up to 8°-10°. This is the indicator that is necessary for the growth of tubers in open ground. The vegetable usually takes 90 days to ripen. Follow these deadlines. That is, planting is often planned for mid-May.

The method of planting potatoes is of great importance.

The yield will depend on this. The method is chosen depending on the type of soil. There are several planting methods. Experienced gardeners take soil type, site topography and region into account. Depending on these factors, the planting method is selected:

• "Flat" landing. The “flat” method means planting tubers in a hole that is covered with soil without a bump. This is the most common and easiest planting method. It is intended for flat, sunny areas with good climatic conditions. If the field is lumpy, with large differences, this method is not suitable. Water will constantly accumulate in certain places. This can cause tuber rot and the harvest will be poor. The holes are dug small - 8 cm. Using a shovel, lift the soil and plant the tuber with the sprouts facing up. It is advisable to add one or two teaspoons of ash into the hole. It contains necessary and useful elements for plant growth.

• "Crest". This method is significantly different from the first. It is intended for those regions where there is almost always a threat of cold snap, flooding, air and soil temperatures are low - the regions of Siberia. The holes are dug shallow - up to 5 cm. The complex is added to them. The hole with potatoes is covered with soil. As the plant grows gradually. That is, every time sprouts appear above the surface, they are covered with earth. This is done until a high ridge is formed. Its height can reach 15 cm. Why is this done? The fact is that root system, with constant hilling and lifting of the earth, it automatically moves higher. That is, the risk of tubers overcooling and flooding is reduced, since they are always above the soil level. The comb warms up quickly and retains heat for quite a long time. This method is suitable for regions with unfavorable climatic conditions, when there is a risk of crop loss.
• "Trench". This method is used in regions where sandy or peaty soil predominates. Potatoes have a hard time growing in such soil, as they constantly lack moisture. In this regard, they resort to a planting method called “trench”. A ditch up to 10 cm deep is dug. They bring it in and thoroughly water the soil with rainwater. Tubers are planted with sprouts up at a foot's distance from each other. A distance is left between the trenches so that you can move freely and care for plants. The ditch is covered with soil. The surface is thoroughly spilled and covered with mowed grass and straw. This way the soil will retain enough moisture for a long time to ripen the crop. If the soil is too light and the region is dry, this planting method is recommended. Always consider soil type and region before planting seed. Choose a planting method according to the plant's requirements - humidity and warmth.

There are others unusual ways planting - in barrels, containers and other containers. But the most successful thing will always be to plant the material in open ground, in an area free of trees, sunny and warm. Depending on the chosen variety, planting method and care, the gardener will reap the harvest. With proper planning and preparation of seed material, the yield will be at its best!

More information can be found in the video.