Summer is the hottest time for gardeners and gardeners, and not only because the sun is hot outside. At this time, a huge amount of work needs to be done, otherwise you won’t get a good harvest. Fertilizing the soil in summer is one of the main and mandatory tasks. This procedure can be either one-time or multiple, it all depends on the quality of the soil and the types of plants growing on it. IN summer period Two types of fertilizing are used, which can be classified as urgent and planned.

Urgent feeding

This type of supplementary nutrition for a plant is used when it needs to be saved, and this is visible to the naked eye. You have to act immediately, so you need to use exactly those fertilizers for the garden or garden that quickly transfer from the soil complex to the roots, otherwise such fertilizing will be of no use.

Garden and garden crops begin to quickly die if there is insufficient quantity of one of the three main elements of the NPK complex - nitrogen, phosphorus and calcium. The plant withers before our eyes, and the whole process can take literally several days. Which particular element is missing for feeding in the summer can be determined by external signs, which will be discussed below.

Nitrogen

This element is the most important at the initial stage of growth. If you notice that your plantings are growing slowly, they are most likely lacking nitrogen. Many other signs also indicate a deficiency of this element. For example, pale or chlorotic coloring of leaves, weak shoots and shoots, yellowing of leaves. The situation can be improved with the help of both organic and mineral fertilizers.

Diluted mullein will help to quickly and efficiently feed greens and root vegetables with nitrogen at the initial stage of their growth, provided that you have it on hand.

They use both humus and fresh fractions, but dilute them in different proportions . Fresh manure –1:15, and never pour the resulting solution under plant root, because it can be burned. It is better to draw grooves between the rows of plants and spill the resulting solution.

But dry mullein in liquid form can be used with less caution. His diluted somewhat thicker - 1:10, and even poured into the tree trunks of plants, but still in such a way that the resulting suspension does not penetrate directly to the plant trunk. Therefore, when applying this fertilizer for the garden specifically into the holes, it is necessary to immediately mix the top soil layer, localizing the mullein near the surface, and protecting the roots and stem from direct contact with it.

Also, in emergency cases, To quickly supply nitrogen, mineral fertilizers such as urea are used. This fat contains a large amount of nitrogen, up to 46%, and it is in an easily digestible form.

Phosphorus

If the tomato leaves have become saturated purple shade, they need to be fed with phosphorus fertilizer. The lack of this element at the start of growth inhibits the development of plants, and during the ripening of fruits, its absence negatively affects their taste. Most often, phosphorus starvation occurs not even in fast-growing plants, whose growing season is no more than a season, but in garden centenarians - fruit trees and berry bushes. This happens due to basic forgetfulness. After all, the garden is so stable, and usually no surprises are expected from it, annually applying standard nitrogen fertilizers and completely forgetting about fertilizing the garden with phosphorites. For several years, the trees live on old reserves, but at one far from perfect moment they run out, and the tree suddenly begins to hurt.

Changes in the color of foliage, abundant shedding of flowers, crushing of fruits and deterioration in their taste - all this indicates a severe lack of phosphorus in the soil. In this case, urgent fertilization of the land under apple trees, pears, plums and other fruit trees is required. But phosphorus is not the fastest-acting element. Simple superphosphate will take too long to absorb, so with urgent feeding, which is applied in the summer outside of the plan, It is recommended to use azofoska or diammofoska. Phosphorites are found in these products in a more accessible form, and in a diluted state they begin to act within a couple of days.

Potassium

Most often, urgent application of fertilizers rich in this element it is required either at the beginning of growth (after transplanting seedlings into the ground), or before the start of fruit formation. How to determine that a plant is dying precisely because of a lack of this element? The first “bell” will be yellowing and drying of the tips of the leaves of melons and nightshades. Similar manifestations of an imbalance of essential substances are more common in plants in a greenhouse, since in open ground the potassium balance is, at least partially, restored naturally. But in closed ground there are usually only those substances that are added when renewing the soil and fertilizing crops in the summer. Almost all of the resulting substances are usually consumed by plants almost completely during the growing season. The manure or compost added by most gardeners does not compensate for these losses, since these fertilizers contain mainly nitrogen and microelements.

That's why It is advisable to add potassium not even in the summer, but in the spring, during digging of the greenhouse. But if this has not been done, then urgent fertilizing is required when the first signs of its deficiency appear, otherwise the harvest may not be expected. The most in a fast way bring this substance to the plant’s metabolic system - spray it with a solution of potassium humate. This is one of the most effective ways support an adult plant.

But if signs of potassium deficiency appear in seedlings, then proceed as follows. Take 0.5 cups of ash, dissolve it, stirring, in a liter of boiling water, let it cool. Then the resulting solution is diluted again in a ratio of 1:5, and the seedlings of peppers, eggplants and tomatoes are watered with this mixture. It is also possible to use solutions of mineral fertilizers in accordance with the instructions.

Scheduled feeding

It is recommended to apply fertilizers in the summer, focusing on a specific schedule. The fact is that garden and vegetable plants have peaks in the consumption of macro- and microelements, and knowing the time of their onset, you can use mineral and organic fertilizers more effectively. So, let’s break down the schedule for adding fertilizers and organic matter by month.

June

This month, seedling crops must be fed. They have already gone through a period of adaptation and have taken root both in the open ground and in the greenhouse. Accordingly, they have used up a large amount of useful substances from the earth, and again need them to enhance their growth and development. Fertilizers applied in summer are applied in June to the following crops:

1. White cabbage. Use mullein solution diluted in a ratio of 1:10. The application rate is 0.5 liters per hole.
2. Greenhouse tomatoes. You can feed it in the same way as cabbage.
3. Bell peppers and eggplants, growing in open ground. These plants, which crave nitrogen in June, require the application of more powerful fertilizers, since their living conditions are more severe than those of greenhouse crops. In this case, you can use well-diluted chicken manure in a ratio of 1:15, which is fermented for at least a week before use. This concentrate cannot be applied to tree-trunk holes, only into grooves dug along their contour.
4. For potatoes held in June foliar feeding. Unlike seedling crops, it has a greater need for phosphorus than nitrogen. Therefore, it is processed as follows - 3 tablespoons of superphosphate are diluted in 10 liters of water. Spray the potatoes in the evening using a grass broom, just as when treating them with insecticides against the Colorado potato beetle.
5. Other garden crops in June, they mainly need nitrogen fertilizers, just like seedling crops. You don’t have to spend a lot on them, and feed plants such as onions, herbs, garlic, zucchini, pumpkins and squash with “nettle tea.” It is done like this - 1 part of nettle is filled with 8 parts of water with the addition of humates (1 tsp per 10 liters of water). This composition is used to fertilize the soil in summer under all garden plants and goes to summer residents almost free of charge.

July

This month the foundation for the future harvest is being actively laid. In the garden, root vegetables are poured, fruits and berries are formed, heads of mid- and late-ripe cabbage are tied. It needs to be fed first.

• Mid- and late-season cabbage ripening in July will respond gratefully to fertilizing with phosphorus and nitrogen. For example, it can be shed with diluted azophos or diammophos. The following composition is also suitable - take 3 tbsp for 10 liters of water. simple superphosphate and 1 tsp. ready-made mixture of microelements. A well-diluted mixture is used for feeding in summer. late varieties cabbage, spending about 0.5-0.7 liters per well.

• Cauliflower feed at the beginning of the month. Depending on the timing of planting its seedlings, at this time its head begins to form, or is already actively forming. To obtain good harvest even in the country, it is necessary to feed the plant during this period. It would be optimal to fertilize the soil with nitroammophoska, diluted in water, in the ratio of 2 matchboxes of nitroammophoska per 10 liters of water.
• At the end of July, the last feeding of onions is carried out, grown for turnips. To do this, mix potassium salt (150 g) with superphosphate (200 g) and apply it to a bed area of ​​10 square meters. You can mix fertilizers with water, or scatter them along grooves drawn with a twig along the rows.
• Beet feeding in July the procedure is mandatory. It is treated twice - the first time it is spilled with a solution boric acid(2 g per 10 liters of water to prevent rotting of the core), and the second time - feed with potassium (2 tbsp. ash per 10 liters of water).

August

This month, the soil is nourished by perennial plants, for example, by fertilizing the garden. This is done only for early ripening fruit trees and fruit-bearing bushes. Also during this period, plants are fed, the harvest from which will be carried out only in September.

• Onion sets. This plant must accumulate the maximum amount of nutrients by autumn so that the planting material can safely overwinter. To do this, the seedlings are fed throughout the growing season, and the final feeding in August is phosphorus (2 tablespoons of double superphosphate per 5 liters of water).
• Late carrots. In August, it must be fed with potassium to improve the taste of the fruit and increase its sugar content. For this, 1 tbsp. Potassium fertilizer is dissolved in 10 liters of water, and the carrots are watered at the root.
• At the beginning of the month you can make the last feeding of the pumpkin for the season. To do this, it is watered with a urea solution (20 g per 10 l).
• Under fruit trees and berries Shrubs are also fertilized in August. It saturates the soil with useful substances, which allows the tree to survive the winter. It is best to use organic matter for these purposes, such as compost, which not only nourishes the soil, but also mulches the tree trunks, creating additional protection from the cold.

Fertilizers applied in summer have the most positive effect on crop growth. They help create high-quality products with good taste. You can use both organic and mineral fertilizers, or combine these two types, it all depends on individual preferences. You can stick to various schemes and application schedules, depending on the type of soil at the dacha or on an individual plot of land.

But always strictly One rule should be followed:

The last application of fertilizers or organic matter should be made no later than two weeks before harvest.

Only in this case, fertilizing the soil in summer will bring only positive results, and the finished fruit and vegetable products will not contain nitrates and other harmful substances.

In the previous article, we found out what we need to do, and now it’s time to take care of the garden.

We also have a lot of urgent matters here. People call July “suffering”, the crown of summer.

And in the old days they said: “In the summer you will lie down, in the winter you will run with your bag. What you collect in the summer, you will find on the table in the winter.” So July is a very busy month in the garden.

Firstly, the time has come to harvest the first crops and prepare vegetables for the winter.

Secondly, we need to continue the work that we started in June: watering, feeding, loosening, fighting weeds, and also the disease pests are not asleep, creating problems for us.

So in July there is a ton of things to do in the garden.

Plants ask for water

Watering is, of course, our main concern. And most of all we are concerned about one very pressing question.

How can we save our plantings in such heat if we only have the opportunity to come to our summer cottage on weekends?

But even those of us who live in our homes and have the opportunity to water our beds quite often will not be able to protect them from drying out in extreme heat, but will only wash everything out of the soil. needed by plants nutrients.

What is the way out of this situation? I want to recommend you several options for preserving moisture in our beds during this hottest month.

1. The most effective method is, of course, use of covering materials. To do this, you can use regular film or lutrasil, which are placed between the rows immediately after watering. If there is no film, you can use newspapers or just paper. It’s even better to use straw, hay, peat, and sawdust as covering materials. Since peat is the cleanest, sterile and lightest substrate with good water-holding and absorption capacity, it is most preferable. Dry pine needles and chopped reeds are also suitable. In a word, use everything you have at hand. Before the next watering, covering materials (except hay, straw, pine needles, peat, sawdust) must be removed.
2. During periods of extreme heat, it is recommended do not weed the beds. In this situation, weeds will become our helpers and give the vegetables a little shade, covering them from the scorching rays of the sun. And although weeds will also take some of the moisture from the soil, this is exactly the case when we choose the lesser of two evils. But the plants will not completely burn in the sun, and besides, this measure is temporary.
3. Loosening the soil after watering it also helps to conserve moisture. There is even a saying: “It’s better to loosen well once than to water poorly twice.” It is best to loosen the soil the morning after evening watering. By doing this, we will not only prevent the formation of a crust, but also ensure root system our plants with oxygen.
4. One more thing Golden Rule glaze:water deeply and less often (not every day one watering can per garden bed). The plantings must be watered so that the soil is wet to a depth of 40-60 cm. If we water in small portions, only the top layer of soil will be wetted and the roots of the plants will not be able to receive moisture from the deeper layers. This will lead to the formation of weak, high-lying roots, and since the surface layers of the soil often dry out, the plant root system becomes very vulnerable.

It is best to water the plants in the morning or evening, but not at night, since it is necessary that drops of moisture have time to evaporate before dusk and do not provoke plant diseases.

Well, we watered the beds well, put a layer of mulch on top and now we can rest assured that our plants will not dry out.

Picking cucumbers

The first mass harvest of cucumbers begins and during this period they really need moisture.

When fruiting begins, water the cucumbers warm water after 2 days, 10-15 liters per 1 sq. m depending on the weather.

Fertilize better time two weeks. You can feed as complex fertilizer for cucumbers (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water), and mullein solution.

We fertilize in cloudy weather or in the afternoon. We try to feed cucumbers at the root to avoid the solution getting on the leaves and not harm the plant.

Also, do not forget about the formation of lashes; the excess ones must be removed.

In hot weather, you can spray cucumber leaves, preferably in the first half of the day.

Pepper

Pepper does not tolerate even short-term drying out of the soil and especially needs moisture during the flowering period of the first and second clusters.

During fruiting, we water the pepper every other day, and in very hot weather it is necessary to water it every day, but in small doses.

If there is not enough moisture, this will lead to lignification of the stems and falling off of the ovaries and leaves. But pepper also doesn’t like excess moisture.

When the pepper reaches a height of 20 cm, it is advisable to remove the top of the main stem so that the plant begins to branch.

Of the resulting shoots, it will be enough to leave only 5 top ones, on which the main peppers are formed.

If we want to get a rich and timely harvest, then the formation of a bush must be carried out.

During the period of fruit ripening, peppers need to be fed. To do this, prepare a special solution: pour a bucket of mullein into a barrel, add two glasses of nitrophoska, fill the barrel to the top with water, mix well and let the solution brew (5-7 days). Then mix again and feed 1 liter for each plant.

It is also good to feed peppers with wood ash, which should be added 1 tablespoon per plant at any time.

Tomatoes

For normal fruiting, tomatoes need to be watered once a week and soak the soil to a depth of at least 30 cm.

Tomatoes cannot tolerate waterlogged air, so they need to be provided with good ventilation. Constantly ventilate the greenhouse; besides, ventilation promotes better pollination.

You can feed tomatoes once a week with mineral fertilizers, mullein solution or chicken manure, but at the same time it is worth watching the development of the bushes more carefully.

And if the fruits do not set, but the greens are well developed, this means that the tomatoes are overfed with nitrogen.

It is necessary to feed the plant with a solution of superphosphate, diluting 3 tablespoons of it in 10 liters of water. Water the tomatoes with this solution, using 1 liter per bush. Don't forget to plant the tomatoes too.

Long stepsons can be tilted and buried, and the additional roots that appear will help the plant feed the green mass.

Stepchildren can also be used in this way: we remove them and place them in water or a solution with a stimulant, and when they take root, we plant them. They can be planted in place of harvested early ripening crops.

These tomatoes bloom quickly and produce additional yield.

In the second half of July, early-ripening tomatoes growing in the garden are already ripening. It is profitable to grow early varieties of tomatoes, as they ripen before late blight appears.

Picking peas

I advise you not to be late in harvesting sugar snap peas. You can pick the blades even unripe, while they are still green, fleshy and flat with small tender peas.

And dessert varieties of peas will be ready for harvesting when the peas are fully formed and begin to appear slightly through the flaps.

It is best to harvest peas early in the morning, since in hot weather peas wither very quickly and lose sugar.

In mid-July, in the area freed from peas, you can sow early ripening green vegetables, such as lettuce, dill, parsley.

Don't let the zucchini overripe

In the second ten days of July we begin collecting young zucchini to prevent them from overgrowing, because the most delicious fruits have a length of no more than 20 cm and can be eaten even fresh, adding to salads.

Zucchini must be collected at least 1-2 times a week, otherwise they will lose most of their vitamins.

And if you need seeds for sowing next year, then do not cut the zucchini until it reaches its maximum size.

But do not forget that hybrids are not suitable for propagation by seeds.

Time to harvest garlic and onions

Let's start cleaning Luke when there is already massive yellowing and lodging of leaves. This usually happens from late July to mid-August.

The bulbs are pulled out and shaken off any remaining soil. If the weather is good, then they can be left in the garden to dry for several days, and if it is damp, then the onions can be moved under a shed or into the attic.

Do not allow the onions to dry out - they will not store well.

Then the dry tops are cut off, leaving necks 3-4 cm long, and the bulbs are placed in boxes (baskets, nets) for storage.

At home, onions are stored at a temperature of 18-24 degrees. Bulbs with a diameter of 2.5-3 cm can be left for planting before winter.

During cleaning time garlic you have to watch very carefully. After all, if this is not done on time, then its heads will become overripe, crumble into cloves and will no longer be suitable for storage.

The sign of ripening is the same as for onions - yellowing and drying of the leaves.

I have one more sign by which I start cleaning winter garlic. I always leave one or two arrows and watch them. When the arrows are completely straightened, it means that the garlic is ripe and it’s time to dig it up. This sign has never let me down.

We dig up ripe garlic and pull it out of the soil, and then dry it in the same way as onions.

For storage, leave only mature, clean and dense heads with short, dry roots. Make sure that the outer scales and neck are well dried.

For autumn planting We select the best heads.

Garlic is stored in a dry place at room temperature, but some summer residents store it this way: first, the garlic is placed in a cloth bag, then in a plastic bag and put in the refrigerator.

Dried garlic can also be stored in jars or boxes, covered with millet or dry table salt.

Speeding up pumpkin ripening

At the end of July, we remove the side shoots that do not have ovaries.

The remaining shoots, retreating half a meter from the main stem, are sprinkled with damp soil.

The roots that soon appear there will provide the plant with additional nutrition. This will give the pumpkin more strength and its fruits will grow and ripen very quickly.

And:

• We carry out the final thinning of the crops of carrots and beets, sprinkling the depressions formed after removing excess plants with ash.
• We begin sowing turnips, radishes, and daikon in the vacant beds. We choose the sowing dates in such a way that by the time these vegetables are harvested (late September - early October), normal, unovergrown root crops will have been formed.
• You can also sow kohlrabi and Chinese cabbage for autumn-winter consumption.
• To improve the soil health, in place of dug up early potatoes, you can sow spring rape, oilseed radish or white mustard.
• We re-sow dill, lettuce, arugula and onions on the greens. You can also sow radishes, but they will need to create spring conditions at the time of germination - short daylight hours. This can be done by covering the plantings with a dark film.
• Cover the cauliflower heads with leaves.
• Loosen the eggplants carefully, as you can damage the powerful roots located near the surface of the ground. Remove the shoots that are located just below the first flowers. It is also advisable to sprinkle the soil with ash once every two weeks as a potash fertilizer.
• If the eggplants bear more than 2-3 fruits, it is better to remove them.
• We protect potatoes, tomatoes and eggplants from pests and late blight.
• At the end of July, you can already check whether the potatoes are ripe by carrying out a test dig.
• We support in the greenhouse and greenhouse optimal temperature and humidity.

Well, dear readers, we have found out what we will be doing in July in garden beds. There's a lot to do, isn't it? But let’s not forget that we still have many flowers in our summer cottages that also need our attention and our help. Oh and there will be a next article.

See you soon, dear friends!

VEGETABLE CROPS

CABBAGE

WHITE CABBAGE. The first feeding is carried out 20 days after planting the seedlings: 0.5 liters of mushy mullein are added to 10 liters of water, 0.5 liters are used per plant.

10 days after the first feeding: to 10 liters of water add 0.5 liters of mushy mullein or 0.5 liters of chicken manure infusion, 1 tbsp. spoon of urea. For 1 plant - 1 liter of infusion.

Early July. Feed only medium and late-ripening varieties cabbage For 10 liters of water - 2 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate and 1 teaspoon of microelements. For 1 m2 use 6-8 liters.

August. Only mid- and late-ripening varieties are fed. For 10 liters of water - 1 tbsp. spoon of nitroammophoska. Per 1 m2 - 6-8 l.

In the first 2-3 weeks after planting For seedlings, excessive soil moisture in the upper layer is undesirable, since the root system must penetrate into the deeper layers, where moisture reserves are more stable.

At optimal humidity soil, the growth of the inner leaves of the cabbage plant occurs a little faster than the outer ones, so they press tightly against each other from the inside, forming a dense head of cabbage. Fluctuations in soil moisture lead to uneven growth of inner leaves and cracking of heads.

To prevent ripe heads of cabbage from cracking, they need to be bent several times in one direction - to disrupt the root system. This will stop the supply of nutrients and slow down the growth of the cabbage.

For prevention against aphids, snails and slugs plants and soil are dusted with wood ash (1 cup per 1 m2).

CAULIFLOWER. To form a unit of yield, it requires approximately 2 times more nutrients than white cabbage. The highest need for phosphorus is required for nitrogen and potassium. With a lack of boron, the apical buds die, voids form inside the head and in the stump, and the head rots.

With a lack of molybdenum Large leaves form and the heads become ugly. When growing in sandy soil, it is necessary additional contribution manganese. That's why cauliflower be sure to feed with microelements.

First feeding give 5-7 days after planting the seedlings - with a solution of urea (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water per 10 plants) and potassium nitrate (1 tablespoon) with the addition of 1 teaspoon of microfertilizers.

Second feeding- at the beginning of the formation of the head, per 10 liters of water - 3 tbsp. spoons of nitroammophoska. Fertilizing with organic fertilizers is useful: bird droppings diluted with water 20 times, or mullein diluted with water 10 times, or slurry diluted with water 4 times.

To obtain snow-white heads They are protected from the sun: 2-3 leaves are broken or tied above the head.

RADISH

Radish, like any early ripening crop, is very demanding on soil fertility and responsive to fertilizers.

To protect the seedlings from cruciferous flea beetle, they are pollinated with tobacco dust mixed with lime or ash (1:1). To some extent, sprinkling road dust on the seedlings repels the flea beetle.

During sowing and care do not use potassium fertilizers and ash, otherwise the plants may shoot. Good fertilizers- compost and nitroammophoska.

ONION

BULB ONIONS. Do not apply fresh manure to the onions, otherwise growth is delayed and the formation of leaves does not stop for a long time. The bulb forms late and ripens poorly, is more susceptible to neck rot, and is poorly stored.

Onions respond well to application mineral fertilizers. However, its root system is sensitive to increased concentrations of salts, so it is better to apply them in small portions 2-3 times.

Immediately after the emergence of nigella seedlings, sowing needs feeding nitrogen fertilizers based on 10-15 g/m2. When 1-2 true leaves are formed, the first thinning is carried out, leaving 1.5-2 cm between plants. At the same time, weak plants are removed. After 3-4 true leaves appear, thinning is repeated to the final distance - 5-7 cm.

After the second thinning, fertilizing is necessary complete mineral fertilizer, better in liquid form. Fertilizing with slurry diluted 5-6 times with water or bird droppings diluted 10-15 times has a good effect. Add 30-40 g of superphosphate to a bucket of water. 3-4 buckets of solution are used per 10 m.

One month before cleaning watering is stopped. Last feeding phosphorus-potassium fertilizers carried out during the formation of the bulb, 150 g of potassium salt and 200 g of superphosphate are added per 10 m2.

When growing onions on heavy soil promotes rapid formation and maturation unhilling of plants. In this case, carefully, without damaging the root system, the soil is raked away from the bulbs.

At early spring sowing With seeds, onions are ready for harvesting in late August-early September. In some years, due to unfavorable weather conditions, it does not have time to ripen by this time. To speed up ripening, plants are dug up, damaging the root system and disrupting the connection with the soil.

After 2-4 days, depending on the weather, the bulbs are removed and laid out to dry along with the leaves. Due to the outflow of plastic substances, the ripening process occurs and bulbs suitable for storage are formed.

Sometimes rolling or crushing leaves is used to speed up the ripening of bulbs. However, this technique is harmful to the crop, since the plants are damaged and pathogenic organisms penetrate into the bulbs through the resulting gaps. In addition, rolling does not stop growth, and plants continue to grow with a broken stem.

FROM SEVK. When the feather reaches a height of 10 cm, plant processing begins from illnesses(phytosporin - every 2 weeks). When the feather reaches a height of 8-10 cm, carry out first feeding: for 10 liters of water - 1 cup of mushy mullein, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of urea, per 1 m2 - 2-3 liters of solution.

Second feeding- 12-15 days after the first. For 10 liters of water - 2 tbsp. spoons of nitroammophoska, per 1 m 2 - 5 liters of solution.

Third- when the bulb reaches size walnut. For 10 liters of water - 2 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate, per 1 m 2 - 5 liters of solution.

Measures to combat onion fly.

1. 
   Onions are placed next to carrots. The specific smell of carrots repels the onion fly, and the phytoncides of onions repel the carrot fly.


2. 
   Dissolve 1 glass in 10 liters of water table salt, watering can be used to water the onion beds, trying not to get them on the feathers. The first time this is done when the feather reaches 5 cm, after 20 days the watering is repeated.


3. 
   When a fly appears, sprinkle the soil with a repellent: 100 g of wood ash, or 1 tbsp. a spoonful of tobacco dust, or 1 teaspoon of ground pepper per 1 m2 (2 times with an interval of 10-18 days).

Measures to combat peronosporosis ( downy mealy dew). The onion bed should have a direction from north to south and be well lit by the sun. Crops and plantings should not be thickened. Before planting, the seedlings are warmed up. Feathers at a height of 10-12 cm are sprayed with a solution of copper oxychloride, and every 2 weeks they are sprayed with phytosporin.

LEEK. First feeding- when 5-6 true leaves appear, second- a month after the first one. For 10 liters of water - 0.5 liters of mullein, 1 teaspoon each of urea, potassium sulfate and superphosphate. For 1 m2 - 3-4 liters of solution.

Once a week, before hilling, add ash - 1 cup per 1 m2.

GARLIC

As soon as the garlic leaves emerge from the ground, plantings are fed with nitrogen fertilizer. To do this, dissolve 1 tbsp in 10 liters of water. a spoonful of urea, 10 l - per 1 m2.

When the garlic leaves reach a height of 10-15 cm, rake the soil away from the bulb, sprinkle it with ash and return the soil to its place. This operation is repeated when arrows appear.

Removing arrows garlic, leave a few pieces. You can easily determine from them optimal time harvesting. As soon as on the heads the wrapper cracks and the bulbs begin to look outside, it's time to dig garlic.

For your health planting material It is recommended to regularly rejuvenate the cultivated variety by sowing aerial bulbs. In the first year of cultivation, they form single-toothed ones. They are planted in the fall and the following year they receive normal multi-toothed bulbs.

BEET DINING

Loves sprinkling and loosening. When the root crop reaches walnut size, make fertilizing: for 10 liters of water - 1 tbsp. a spoonful of nitroammophoska and 1 glass of wood ash. 10 liters of fertilizing should be enough for 1 m2 of area.

After 10 days- second feeding: for 10 liters of water - 0.5 liters of mushy mullein and 2 tbsp. spoons of nitroammophoska. For 1 m2 - 5-6 l.

After the second thinning: for 10 liters of water - 2 cups of ash and 1 teaspoon of table salt. For 1 m2 - 10 l.

To prevent heart rot carry out foliar feeding with boric acid: 2 g per 10 liters of water.

To increase sugar content 2-3 times per season, water the beets with a solution of table salt - 1 tbsp. spoon per 10 liters of water.

1-2 times per season, beets are fed with a solution microelements: 1 teaspoon per 10 liters of water.

ZUCCHOK, PATISSON

During fruiting, 2-3 leaves are removed from the middle of the bush - for better illumination and ventilation. Regularly remove diseased, old leaves lying on the ground.

Why do ovaries rot?? Most likely they were not pollinated female flowers. Or there were sudden changes in temperature. Or watered the bushes cold water. Or the ovaries were affected by blossom end rot.

Decide which plants you will take fruits from for summer consumption and canning, and which ones you will leave for “winter” fruits. WITH "summer" From plants, the fruits are removed as often as possible, without allowing them to outgrow; the signal for harvesting is the wilted corolla of the flower. From such plants you can collect more than 20 greens.

On "winter" The plants are allowed to produce 4-5 fruits. When they ripen, they are removed for winter storage, cut off along with the stalk.

First feeding- before flowering (per 10 liters of water - 0.5 liters of mullein, 1 tablespoon of nitroammophoska). Or for 10 liters of water - 2 tbsp. ideal spoons (1 liter per plant).

During flowering: for 10 liters of water - 2 tbsp. spoons of ash and 1 tbsp. feeder's spoon, 1 liter of fertilizer is used per plant.

During fruiting: for 10 liters of water - 2 tbsp. spoons of nitroammophoska and 2-3 tbsp. giant spoons, 2 liters per plant.

Additionally carried out 2 out root dressings with an interval of 10-15 days (per 10 liters of water - 1 tablespoon of urea or ideal). For one plant - 0.5 l.

TURNIP

Turnips are best grown on fertile sandy loams and loams, where they are especially sweet. Straw manure or feces should not be used as fertilizer. For growth and productivity good action provides wood ash. By neutralizing the acidity of the soil, it protects plants from clubroot disease and partially provides potassium, phosphorus, calcium, and microelements. Turnip is very responsive on boron fertilizers Therefore, foliar fertilizing with boric acid (2 g per 10 liters of water) is carried out twice per season.

First thinning done when two true leaves are formed, second- 10-15 days after the first one. During final thinning, the distance between plants should be 6-8 cm.

Requires moisture throughout growing season very high.

In the conditions of the Middle Volga region, turnips are sown for the first time at the end of April (for consumption in June). Next sowing date (for winter storage) are chosen so that the root crops ripen before frost - June 10-20.

CELERY

The need for celery is very high in nitrogen- leaf rosette grows well. Phosphorus accelerates the ripening of plants and improves their quality. Potash fertilizers promote the accumulation of sugars and starch, increase the frost resistance of the plant. In addition, calcium and magnesium must be added to the soil for celery.

On soils with low fertility, it is advisable to apply rotted manure or compost - 6-8 kg/m2, nitrogen fertilizers - 3-5 g/m2, phosphorus - 10 g/m2, potassium - 5 g/m2, manganese - 2 g/m2. Organic and phosphorus are added under autumn digging, the rest - half for digging, half - for feeding.

When planting celery seedlings it is important not to bury the outlet- the apical bud should be at ground level. The soil around the roots is compacted.

In 30 days after planting celery - root feeding (for 10 liters of water - 2 tablespoons of giant and 1 teaspoon of urea), use 3-4 liters per 1 m 2.

In the middle of July carefully rake the soil away from the root crops and wipe with a rag. After 15 minutes they spud. Water only after 2-3 days. Here's some advice for celery root.

From midsummer the root celery is torn off lower leaves, exposing the base of the stem.

Thick, long, juicy petioles can be obtained only when the plant grows rapidly throughout the entire growing season. If the development of celery is delayed at one time or another, do not expect a good harvest. Therefore, we must try to create suitable conditions- after each watering, loosen the soil so that air can flow freely to the roots, water and feed on time and, of course, weed.

Root celery is afraid of frost and reacts to the spring cold with an arrow-peduncle. It tolerates autumn cold well. To play it safe, it is better to plant root celery seedlings at the end of May. Any slowdown in growth provokes bolting.

CARROT

Carrots produce normal marketable root crops when the number of plants per 1 m of row is from 80 to 100 pieces (depending on soil fertility, with row spacing of 30-35 cm). The sparseness of crops leads to the formation of branched root crops, many of which crack.

Another reason for this phenomenon is excess nitrogen nutrition at the stage of leaf rosette formation and root growth.

First feeding- a month after emergence, use 5 liters of solution per 1 m2. Second feeding- after 15-18 days, use 7-8 liters of solution per 1 m2. For 10 liters of water - 1 tbsp. spoon of nitroammophoska.

In August carrots are fed with potassium fertilizer: per 10 liters of water - 1 tbsp. spoon.

To obtain large carrots , use a crowbar to make a cone in the ground, fill it with humus, plant 3 seeds, then leave one of the best sprouts.

You can feed carrots with other “dishes”. First feeding: for 10 liters of water - 1 tbsp. spoon of potassium sulfate, 1.5 tbsp. spoons of double superphosphate and 1 teaspoon of urea. Second feeding: for 10 liters of water - 1 tbsp. a spoonful of potassium sulfate, a glass of pigeon (chicken) droppings solution and 1 teaspoon of complex mineral fertilizer.

Good result gives foliar fertilizing with boric acid (2 g per 10 liters of water).

Will scare you away carrot fly spraying crops with infusion of onion peels. To do this, pour boiling water over 400 g of husk, close the lid tightly, leave for a day and filter. The onion peels remaining after infusion can be spread in the grooves between the plants.

When thinning appears strong smell carrots, a carrot fly flies at him. Therefore, before thinning, the crops are sprayed with the following solution: per 10 liters of water - 1 tbsp. a spoonful of ground black or red pepper and 1 teaspoon of liquid soap. For 1 m 2 of crops, 1 liter of solution is consumed.

PUMPKIN

Pumpkin plants when they are 3-5 true leaves, hill up to form additional roots. Watering important during the growth of stems, leaves and fruits; during flowering they are limited.

Leave on the plant 2-3 side lashes, they are pinched after the formation of 2-5 ovaries, 5-7 leaves are left above each fruit.

During flowering plants are fed once every 2 weeks. In 10 liters of water dilute 1 liter of mullein, 2 tbsp. spoons of nitroammophoska. 8 liters of fertilizer are poured under 1 plant. Or 200 g of bird droppings are diluted in 10 liters of water.

Pumpkin loves foliar fertilizing with urea (15 g per 10 l of water) or superphosphate (40 g per 10 l of water).

RADISH

Radish moisture-loving, therefore, on sandy soils it gives a good harvest only with watering.

Varieties intended for summer consumption are sown in late April-early May, for winter - 10-20 June. Radishes are sown on ridges in one row with a distance between rows of 60 cm or on beds in 3 rows with a distance between rows of 35 cm.

Thickening- one of the reasons for flowering and poor quality of root crops. First thinning carried out in the phase of two true leaves, second- in the phase of four true leaves. During the first thinning, a distance of 8-10 cm is left between plants in the row, and for the second - 15-20 cm.

It is better to feed radishes with mineral fertilizers. First feeding- when 3-4 true leaves appear, the second - 20 days after the first. For 10 liters of water - 20 g of urea, 60 g of superphosphate, 15 g of potassium chloride.

POTATO

Application half-rotted manure or compost (40-50 kg per 10 m2) on loamy and sandy loam soils almost doubles the tuber yield.

It is forbidden apply fresh manure under the potatoes (both in autumn and spring). This leads to plant diseases and reduces the yield and quality of tubers.

First feeding applied at the beginning of budding, before loosening or hilling. Mineral fertilizers are scattered between rows at a distance of 5-6 cm from the stems, and then embedded in the ground during hilling. For each bush, 3-6 g of superphosphate, 3-4 g of potassium chloride or sulfate, 2-3 g of urea or ammonium nitrate are consumed. If nitrophoska is used for feeding, it is taken at the rate of 10-12 g per bush.

From organic fertilizers Humus is suitable - two handfuls for each bush. Wood ash is added at the rate of one or two handfuls mixed with the same amount of soil. Dry bird droppings - 10-15 g per bush.

Second feeding with weak development of the above-ground mass, it is carried out in the early flowering phase mainly with potassium fertilizers (30 g of potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water per 10 m 2). If there is a lack of potassium in the soil, the flesh of the tubers darkens. After feeding, the plants are hilled up.

Immediately after the second feeding plants are dusted with ash. For them it's additional feeding, and for the beetle - obvious discomfort.

To accelerate the outflow of nutrients from the leaves into the tubers and thereby increase the yield, in the budding and flowering phase, as well as three weeks before harvesting, use foliar feeding. Even a one-time spraying of plants at the final stage increases the tuber yield by 7-11%, and starch content by 0.8-1.0%. To do this, infuse 20 g of superphosphate in 10 liters of water for 1-2 days (mixing well periodically). It will take 1 liter of solution to process 10 m2 of potato plantation.

If there is a lack of nitrogen in the soil, foliar fertilizing is carried out during the period of budding and flowering of potatoes (20 g of urea per 10 liters of water). At the same time, the tops are sprayed with solutions of microelements.

In dry and hot weather You cannot deeply loosen the soil and hill up the plants - this causes loss of moisture and overheating of the soil. In such conditions, when loosening, a little soil from the rows is raked up to each plant.

Mowing the aboveground mass 7-10 days before harvesting (no later and no earlier) helps increase the resistance of tubers to damage to the skin, prevents the spread of diseases, especially late blight.

Preventive spraying plants against late blight begin at the beginning of budding, repeating after 7-10 days. Plants are sprayed with a solution copper sulfate(2-10 g per 10 liters of water). You can use copper-containing preparations.

PEPPER, EGGPLANT

In cold weather pepper and eggplant you can't water, as the soil cools and the functioning of the root system and leaf apparatus deteriorates.

During flowering and setting between waterings, refreshing watering is carried out on the fruits (5-10 liters of water per 1 m2) to create increased relative air humidity, since at low humidity the flowers fall off.

It is better to loosen the rows after watering or rain. Starting from the second loosening, the plants are hilled.

If peppers are grown in the greenhouse, then when the plant reaches a height of 20-25 cm, remove the top main stem. Pinched plants quickly begin to branch and form a crop. You should not pinch peppers in open ground., this technique delays the growing season.

Insufficiently complete pollination of flowers can cause the appearance of non-standard (crooked) fruits. To prevent this, you need to shake the plants in hot, sunny, calm weather.

Lack of moisture in the soil and high air temperatures cause lignification of the stems, falling of buds and leaves of both pepper and eggplant.

On open areas it is necessary to protect pepper and eggplant plantings from the wind with the help of curtains - plantings of tall crops that are planted in advance around the bed (beets, beans, chard, leeks).

Since the root system of pepper is located in the top layer of soil, loosening should be shallow (3-5 cm) and accompanied by mandatory hilling.

Do not apply fresh manure to peppers and eggplants; this can cause the development of vegetative mass to the detriment of flowering.

Young pepper and eggplant seedlings planted in open ground, does not withstand low above-zero temperatures (2-3"C), however, in the fall, fruit-bearing plants can withstand frosts down to -5"C.

Feeding. During flowering: per 100 liters of water - 5-6 kg of finely chopped nettle, 1 bucket of mullein, 10 tbsp. spoons (heaped) of ash. For 1 plant - 1 liter. The fertilizer is fermented in a barrel for a week.

During fruiting The plants are given two feedings. First: per 100 liters of water - 0.5 buckets of chicken manure, 2 cups of nitroammophoska. For 1 plant - 1 liter. Or per 100 liters of water - 10 tbsp. spoons of Signora Tomato, for 1 plant - 1 liter.

Second feeding- 12 days after the first: per 100 liters of water - 1 bucket of mullein, 1/4 bucket of bird droppings, 1 glass of urea. For 1 m2 - 5-6 liters of solution. Or per 100 liters of water - 0.5 liters of Ideal, per 1 m 2 - 5 liters.

From time to time you need to sprinkle the soil with ash: 1-2 cups per 1 m2.

Another option for feeding eggplant. First feeding carried out 10-15 days after planting seedlings: per 10 liters of water - 40-

50 g of superphosphate, 10 g of ammonium nitrate or 30 g of urea, 15-20 g of potassium salt.

Second feeding carried out 20 days after the first, while the doses of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are increased by 1.5-2 times.

Third feeding- at the beginning of fruiting: per 10 liters of water - 60-80 g of urea, superphosphate and 20 g of potassium chloride. One watering can (10 l) is consumed per 5 m2. After each feeding, the plants must be watered clean water to avoid burns from fertilizers.

CUCUMBER

Oat root secretions have a detrimental effect on a number of soil pathogens. In early spring, 100-150 g of oats are sown per 1 m2 and, when the seedlings reach a height of 15-20 cm, the bed intended for cucumbers is dug up, embedding the oat plants in the soil. You can sow oats in the fall, after harvesting the cucumber vines.

Dill helps increase cucumber yield.

Onions and radishes planted near cucumber and tomato plantings repel spider mites.

Onions and garlic will protect the cucumber from bacteriosis. As they grow, the arrows must be cut so that the phytoncides are released more strongly.

Never plant cucumbers next to roses - ants will drag aphids from roses to cucumbers.

When growing cucumbers in the wings, very good conditions for growth and development. Plants enter the fruiting season 3-5 days earlier. In addition, you can additionally obtain a crop of canopy crops, the best of which are corn, dill and sunflower.

Cucumber shoots appear on days 5-7. But at low temperatures or too early sowing they may appear only on day 15-20.

The bitterness of the fruit depends on the variety and growing conditions. More of the bitter substance cucurbitacin accumulates in varieties with a dark green color, closer to the base. Cucumbers become bitter when grown during short-term droughts, on sunny, hot days, or when there is a lack of nutrients in the soil. In these cases, fruit growth slows down, the ripening period lengthens and, as a result, more cucurbitacin accumulates.

At the beginning of the growing season, cucumber absorbs nitrogen more intensively than other elements, then the consumption of potassium increases (at this time the vines grow rapidly), then more nitrogen is consumed again, which is associated with new growth of shoots and the onset of fruiting. Optimal ratio nutrients nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in cucumber plants is 2:1:3.

As the plants grow, the roots of the cucumber become exposed; they need to be covered with fresh, moistened soil. The lower node of the stem is also planted. Adding moist soil promotes the formation of additional roots.

If there is a lack of nitrogen in the soil, the cucumber leaves turn pale green, then turn yellow and fall off. With a lack of phosphorus, the leaves become dark green with a purple tint and turn black when they die. A lack of potassium in the soil is indicated by a border along the edges of the leaves, first pale green, then brown or brownish-brown, and brown spots in the middle of the leaf. Slow, weakened growth, drooping and dying of growth points indicate a lack of calcium. Disappearance of green leaf color, appearance yellow spots between the veins of the leaf, then browning and dying - signs of a lack of magnesium in the soil.

With a lack of iron, the tips of the shoots are affected, the leaves become pale green color, then turn yellow, but do not die. Yellowing of the leaves is noted with a lack of magnesium, and darkening of the tips of the leaves is a sign of a lack of copper. With boron deficiency, the apical buds die, the leaves fall off, and flowering is inhibited.

It is impossible for depressions to remain near the root collar of plants - irrigation water is retained in them, and this leads to cracking of the root collar, which is why root rot and the plants die.

The ovaries turn yellow and fall off due to the fact that they remain unfertilized. This is due to prolonged, cold and damp weather, when insects do not fly.

Feeding. At the beginning of flowering: for 10 liters of water - 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate, urea, superphosphate and 1 glass of mushy mullein (or 1 tablespoon of sodium humate).

During fruiting 3 feedings are required. First: for 10 liters of water - 1 glass of mushy chicken droppings and 1 tbsp. spoon of nitroammophoska, per 1 m2 - 5 l.

Second- 10-12 days after the first feeding: for 10 liters of water - 0.5 liters of mullein and 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate (or for 10 liters of water - 1 tablespoon of Fertility). For 1 m2 - 5-6 l.

Third- 12 days after the second: for 10 liters of water - 0.5 liters of mullein or 1 glass of mushy chicken droppings, 1 tbsp. spoon of nitroammophoska (or 1 tbsp. Bogatyr). For 1 m2 - 5-10 l. Mullein and chicken droppings can be replaced with sodium humate, Ideal, Breadwinner, Fertility, Giant - 1 tbsp each. spoon.

For root rot: 2 tbsp. spoons of copper sulfate - per 10 liters of water, 1 glass per plant. If the cucumber leaves become prickly and rough after fruiting: 1 tbsp. Dilute a spoonful of urea in 10 liters of water and spray it on the leaves.

TOMATO

During flowering, it is advisable to shake the flower brushes so that the ripe pollen spills out of the anthers and lands on the stigma. It is better to do this daily, in the middle of the day.

If by chance the top breaks off when transplanting tomatoes, the plant will still take root, and the role of the top will be taken over by a side shoot.

When planting overgrown seedlings, plants should be planted at an angle of 30-45° to the ground in the north direction. Then the sun's rays will “raise” it to a vertical position.

Loosen the soil after each watering and rain. In hot, dry weather, loosening helps reduce the evaporation of moisture from the soil, and in rainy and cold weather it ensures better gas exchange between air and soil, and reduces the possibility of plants becoming infected with fungal diseases.

Irregular watering of plants in hot summers often leads to blossom end rot.

Tall (indeterminate) varieties are grown with one stem, and in favorable weather - with two. In this case, the second stem is the stepson - a shoot under the first flower cluster. All other shoots - stepchildren - are removed.

short early ripening varieties can be grown without formation, but in rainy years they must be pinched and tied to stakes.

The lower aging leaves are trimmed in a timely manner.

An accidentally thrown cigarette butt near tomato plantings can infect the plants with tobacco mosaic.

When planting seedlings in the ground, before flowering, when the ovaries appear and at the beginning of fruit ripening, it is useful to add potassium permanganate to the water (2 g per 10 liters of water). This will have a good effect on the growth and then on the ripening of the fruit; the tomatoes will turn out to be more sugary and resistant to late blight.

Tall varieties and hybrids are planted according to a pattern of 70x70 cm, medium-growing - 60x60 cm and 50x50 cm, low-growing - 50x40 cm and 50x30 cm.

The shoots are broken out, but under no circumstances are they pulled out, since wounds form on the plant, where fungal infection easily gets into. If the side shoots are large, it is better to remove them with a sharp knife or scissors, leaving a stump 1 cm long, which will not allow a new shoot to form.

The shorter the growing season of a variety or hybrid, the fewer stepsons are left and the denser the plants can be planted.

Tall varieties are not very sensitive to lack of moisture, while low-growing varieties do not tolerate dryness well.

Tomato water needs are highest during the flowering phase, ovary formation and intensive fruit weight gain. Excess water is no less harmful, which often leads to yellowing of leaves and root rot.

Tomato is sensitive to chlorides, so do not fertilize the soil with potassium chloride. It is better to use potassium sulfate or wood ash.

Weak or absent fruit set - the plant’s reaction to too low or too low high temperatures. The reason for the fall of ovaries and flowers may be excess nitrogen in the absence of phosphorus and potassium or boron and manganese. This happens more often in low light conditions.

Deformation of fruits and their cracking are associated with fluctuations in temperature and soil moisture.

When alternating planting tomatoes and white cabbage the latter will have several times fewer leaf-eating pests.

Feeding. 7-10 days after planting in the ground feed the plants with a solution of nitroammophoska (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).

3 weeks after planting in the ground dilute 0.5 kg of mullein and 1 tbsp in 10 liters of water. a spoonful of nitroammophoska, for each plant - 0.5 liters of solution.

At the beginning of the blooming of the second brush: in 10 liters of water, dilute 0.2 liters of liquid chicken manure, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of double superphosphate, 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate. At the root - 1 l.

Next feeding- during the blooming of the third flower cluster: dilute 1 tbsp in 10 liters of water. a spoonful of sodium humate working solution and 1 tbsp. spoon of nitroammophoska. For 1 m2 - 5 l.

After 12 days: dilute 1 tbsp in 10 liters of water. a spoonful of superphosphate. Bucket of fertilizing - for 1 m2.

Last feeding - at the end of July. Dilute 1 tbsp in 10 liters of water. a spoonful of nitroammophosphate, superphosphate and potassium sulfate. For 1 plant - 0.5 l. Feed when fruits are filling.

So that the fruits are sweet: dissolve 1 tbsp in 10 liters of water. a spoonful of table salt and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of potassium sulfate. For 1 plant - 0.5 l. Feed when fruits are filling.

When flowers fall: dissolve 1 teaspoon of boric acid in 10 liters of water; when spraying, use 10 liters of solution per 10 m2.

When the leaves curl: dissolve 2 g of boric acid in 10 liters of water, pour 1 liter of solution under each plant.

Eliminate superphosphate from fertilizing, and increase the dose of potassium and nitrogen fertilizers to 30 g per 10 liters of water.

From viral diseases: dissolve 5 g of potassium permanganate and 10-15 g of boric acid in 10 liters of water. For each plant - 1 liter.

When plants are damaged viral diseases You can try the following remedy: sand a copper wire, pointed on one side, and insert it into the stem of the plant (the length of the wire is 3-4 cm, 2-3 pieces are inserted into the stem).

It is necessary to monitor the condition of the plants and timely add the necessary nutrients to the soil.

If the plants are stunted and have a pale color, the tomato plants need to be fed with a 1:10 solution of mullein.

If the plants “fatten”, they intensively increase the green mass to the detriment of fruit formation, and exclude nitrogen fertilizers from fertilizing.

If the leaves on the underside turn purple, the plants are lacking phosphorus. Excess phosphorus causes yellowing of leaves.

Plants dry out and fruits become variegated in color due to a lack of potassium. When there is an excess of it, dull spots appear on the leaves.

Fruit crops

APPLE TREE

Pollination of flowers occurs with the help of insects, among which the first place is occupied honey bee. It pollinates up to 95% of flowers.

Low-active forms of lime(limestone and dolomite flour, calcareous, chalk) can be applied to the soil along with manure, peat and compost, and also mixed or composted with organic fertilizers. Nitrogen is not lost from manure. Burnt or slaked lime, burnt dolomite, cement dust, oil shale ash applied separately from organic fertilizers. Do not mix lime with phosphate rock, otherwise the solubility of phosphate rock and, consequently, its effectiveness decreases. The apple tree grows well in deeply cultivated soils. Even when loosening a 45 cm layer of soil with the application of fertilizers, young trees develop a deeper root system in the first years. When applying mineral fertilizers to planting pits it is necessary to avoid their direct contact with the roots, since potassium kills the roots of established plants. Contact roots with nitrogen fertilizers also dangerous. High-quality compost, semi-rotted manure or humus are used as organic fertilizers. Fresh manure is detrimental to seedlings, as it forms a large amount of ammonia gas.

Fertilizers and application doses in the hole under the apple tree: organic - either 20-25 kg of compost, or 20-25 kg of humus, or 20-25 kg of rotted manure; phosphorus - either 150-200 g of superphosphate, or 75-100 g of double superphosphate, or 450-600 g of phosphate rock; potassium - either 60-80 g of potassium chloride, or 80-110 g of potassium sulfate, or 500 g of wood ash.

Adult apple tree per day spends 200-250 liters of water. A tree every day in winter loses 250-400 g of water.

On loams organic fertilizers are applied once every 3-5 years, on the lungs(sandy) - annually or every 1-2 years (on sandy loam). Peat bogs Fertilize in the same way as light soils, but at half the rate.

Organic, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers applied both in winter and autumn. But it is better to fertilize the soil with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers in the fall (September). During the autumn-winter period, they manage to penetrate more deeply than when applied in the spring (chlorine is washed out of potassium chloride over the winter).

Nitrogen or complete mineral fertilizers(if phosphorus and potassium were not introduced in the fall) apply in the spring.

When trees are weakened, their poor growth resorts to feeding with slurry in the first half of the growing season ( June). Feeding more late dates may interfere with the aging of wood.

Increase calcium content in soil possible by liming. The most effective use is cement dust, oil shale ash, and phosphogypsum.

Fighting the codling moth: cook compote from dried apples (you can dry the carrion in advance), hang containers with compote in the crown of the tree during the summer of the codling moth.

Fighting aphids:

1. 
   2 tbsp. spoons ammonia dissolve in 10 liters of water, add 1 tbsp. a spoonful of shampoo or liquid soap. Spray trees when aphids appear.


2. 
   Pass 300 g of fresh citrus peels (or 30 g of dry ones) through a meat grinder and add 1 liter of water. Leave for 5-6 days, dilute with water 1:10 before use.


3. 
   Chop the garlic and add water (1:1), leave for 10 days in a dark place. When spraying 10 liters of water, it is enough to take 20 g of infusion.


4. 
   Green (1.5 kg) or dry (700 g) potato tops pour 10 liters of water, leave for 4 hours or boil over low heat for 15 minutes. The infusion or decoction is used only in freshly prepared form.


5. 
   Pour 200 g of onion peel into 10 liters of warm water, leave for 5 days, strain, spray the affected plants 3 times with an interval of 5 days.

CURRANT, GOOSEBERRY

Lack of moisture retards the growth of bushes, and during the period of formation and filling of berries leads to their crushing and shedding. It is especially important to water blackcurrant bushes during intensive growth and the formation of ovaries (beginning of June) and during the period of berry filling (third ten days of June - first ten days of July). The soil is moistened to the depth of the root layer, approximately 30-40 cm. The approximate water consumption is 20-30 liters per 1 m 2.

June. Berry bushes, especially on light sandy soils, are fed with slurry (1 liter per 1 bucket of water) or infusion of bird droppings (0.5 liter per 1 bucket of water). 1 bucket is used for 2-3 bushes. Or, under each fruiting bush, add 10-15 g of urea, 20 g of superphosphate, 10-15 g of potassium sulfate. It is better to combine fertilizing with watering.

Additionally carry out foliar feeding by spraying plants with microfertilizers. 1-2 g of copper sulfate, 2-2.5 g of boric acid, 5-10 g of manganese sulfate, 2-3 g of zinc sulfate, 2-3 g of ammonium molybdate are dissolved in 10 liters of water. Or treat the plants with a special set of microelements, which are now sold in all specialized stores.

Late September-early October apply organic (10-15 kg per bush) and mineral fertilizers: phosphorus (80-120 g of superphosphate), potassium (30-50 g of potassium chloride).

You can also use this feeding option.

After flowering. Dissolve 3 matchboxes of urea (without a slide) in 10 liters of water. Pour 1 bucket of fertilizer into the center of the bush.

2-3 weeks after flowering. 1 tbsp. Dilute a spoonful of nitroammophoska in 10 liters of water. 1 bucket of solution is poured into the center of the bush.

When pouring berries. Dissolve 2 matchboxes (without a slide) of potassium fertilizer in 10 liters of water. Pour 1 bucket of solution into the center of the gooseberry bush. For currants, dissolve 1 matchbox of urea in 10 liters of water. Currants are sensitive to chlorine, so potassium chloride is added to them only in the fall. good potash fertilizer for currants - wood ash and potassium sulfate.

Red gall aphid . For 10 liters of water - 2 tbsp. spoons of tobacco dust, 50 g laundry soap. Leave for 2 days, strain, add 1 tbsp. spoon of urea. Sprinkle red currants 2-3 times during the season.

RASPBERRIES

Raspberry flowers do not require cross-pollination, but placing several varieties on a plot helps to obtain more stable, abundant harvests.

In April, when the soil is still saturated with moisture, 1 feeding of bushes with nitrogen fertilizers(10-15 g of ammonium nitrate or 10 g of urea per 1 m2). At the same time they spend first spring loosening of the soil- by 8-10 cm. Subsequent loosening is carried out to a depth of no more than 5-6 cm (the root system of raspberries is located close to the surface and with deeper loosening it can be damaged). Final loosening- after harvesting. One of the most important measures for caring for raspberries is mulching the soil. Use dry peat (10-15 cm or 7-8 cm thick) or straw (10-15 cm). In autumn, mulch material is incorporated into the soil.

During the formation of ovaries The bushes are fed with mineral fertilizers (15-20 g of ammonium nitrate, 30-40 g of superphosphate, 20-25 g of potassium salt per 1 m of row). Can be used as a top dressing slurry, diluted with water 1:5, for 1 bush - 0.5 liters of feeding solution.

Raspberries need watering Without sufficient moisture, it reduces the yield several times.

After harvest remove fruit-bearing shoots, leaving 5-7 of the best ones, tie them to a wire and shorten them to a height of 150 cm.

To increase fruiting in the first years after planting, carry out June pinching. For shoots reaching a height of 60-90 cm, a five-centimeter top is cut off. The underlying buds wake up, and the shoot branches, due to which the number of buds on the shoot as a whole increases. The next year the plants bear fruit very abundantly.

in autumn humus (4-5 kg), phosphorus and potassium fertilizers (6-8 g per 1 m2) are added for deep loosening

CHERRY

In early spring When loosening, nitrogen fertilizers are applied - 50-70 g of urea per 1 m2. Good results feed with liquid organic or mineral fertilizers before flowering and at the beginning of active shoot growth. To do this, manure is diluted in water in a ratio of 1:9 and applied at the rate of 1 bucket per 1 m 2 of tree trunk circle. Liquid mineral fertilizers are prepared as follows: 1 tbsp. a spoonful of nitrate (calcium or potassium) is dissolved in 10 liters of water and applied to 1 m 2 of soil surface under the tree crown. The soil is immediately sprinkled with peat to reduce moisture loss due to evaporation.

For setting a large number of fruits and better laying of fruit buds(next year's harvest) it is useful to repeat liquid root feeding with organic or mineral fertilizers. Gives good results foliar feeding- spraying the crown with a urea solution (50 g per 10 liters of water). Should be planted in the garden several varieties of cherries. For good cross pollination, especially when choosing self-sterile varieties, it is important that the pollinated varieties and pollinators are close in terms of flowering time, time of fruiting, fruit ripening time and plant longevity. Cherries are pollinated by insects, pollination proceeds normally if the pollinated variety is located at a distance of no more than 50 m from the pollinating variety. Useful for cherries foliar fertilizing with nitrogen: the first time 10 days after flowering, the second time 2 weeks after the first. The urea consumption in this case is 40-50 g per 10 liters of water.

STRAWBERRY

Planting strawberries several times a season loosen. This ensures good air access to plant roots, enhances microbiological processes in the soil, and retains moisture in it. In the middle of the row spacing, the loosening depth should be 8-10 cm, closer to the rows - 4-5 cm. Starting from 2 years after planting, strawberries can be fed in early spring and after harvest: 1 part mullein to 5 parts water with the addition of 60 g of superphosphate and 100-150 g of wood ash per 1 bucket of solution. They feed as follows: make grooves 4-5 cm deep on both sides of the strawberry rows and apply a fertilizer solution - 1 bucket per 3-4 m. After applying the fertilizer, the grooves are covered with earth and watered. You can feed strawberries according to the following scheme.

Beginning of the growing season. Dissolve a pinch of boric acid, iron sulfate, copper sulfate, potassium permanganate, and 40 drops of iodine in 10 liters of water. Water from a watering can directly over the leaves. Or dissolve 3 g of potassium permanganate, 1/2 teaspoon of iodine, 2 g of boric acid, 1 tbsp in 10 liters of water. a spoonful of urea, 1/2 cup of ash. Apply 1 liter of solution to each bush. Or dissolve 1 teaspoon of microelements in 10 liters of water, for each bush - 0.5 liters of solution.

Beginning of flowering and ovary growth. Sprinkle the plants with a solution of zinc sulfate - 1-2 g per 10 liters of water.

Bookmark flower buds(August). Spray the plants with a urea solution - 1 matchbox per 10 liters of water.

Fighting weevilsm. Dilute 0.5 liters of vinegar in 5 liters of water, sprinkle the plants, repeat several times.

Otherwise, they will not have time to prepare for the dormant period and will not survive the winter well. More emphasis should be placed on fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus.

Very good remedy- foliar feeding. Fill the sprayer with a solution with a 10-fold reduced concentration of nutrients and spray on the leaves. This way, the nutrients will reach the plant faster than if you simply watered it.

Don't forget about the old ones folk recipes. Here is the most common one: soak any weeds, for example, nettles, in a barrel and leave for two weeks until a characteristic smell comes out. The resulting mixture must be diluted several times and then watered the plants. This “elixir” is in no way inferior to ready-made store-bought fertilizers.

If possible, prepare organic fertilizer from bird droppings. This is how she prepares. A third of a bucket of bird droppings is filled to the top with water, left for a day or two, stirring from time to time. Before use, the resulting slurry is diluted with water (for 1 part of litter 3 parts of water) and added at the rate of half a bucket per 1 square meter. meter or bucket for each tree.

Wood stove ash contains a lot of potassium, and it is applied primarily as potassium fertilizer. However, in addition to potassium, the ash contains lime, phosphorus, boron, manganese, and other trace elements. Adding ash to the soil reduces its acidity and improves its composition. There is no nitrogen in the ash. The ash of deciduous trees is healthier: it contains 12 - 14 percent potassium (in the ash coniferous trees 4 - 6 percent).

For normal growth and preservation highly decorative Lawns require a large amount of nutrients, as a significant amount of them is “carried away” during mowing. The choice of fertilizers, their quantity, timing and application methods depend on the composition of the soil and its physical properties. You should not overuse nitrogen-containing fertilizers, as this excessively enhances the growth of the vegetative part of plants and makes it difficult to mow them. In dry summer weather, in order to avoid yellowing of the grass, it is necessary to sprinkle and fertilize the plants ammonium nitrate at the rate of 10 g per 1 sq. meter. In addition, wood ash left over from burning hardwood can be successfully used.

Properties of elements included in fertilizers:

Nitrogen - during the growing season enhances plant growth;
- iron - takes part in the formation of chlorophyll, plays an important role in plant respiration;
- potassium - provides resistance to fungal diseases and short-term droughts;
- calcium - found in all plant cells;
- magnesium - plays an important physiological role in the process of photosynthesis, affects redox processes in plants;
- manganese - affects the synthesis of amino acids, proteins and vitamins;
- copper - activates the synthesis of B vitamins, affects photosynthesis;
- molybdenum - takes part in the synthesis of carbohydrates;
- phosphorus - necessary for the growth, development and fruiting of all crops, for the development of the root system, resulting in improved plant supply nutrients, gives resistance to diseases;
- zinc - affects the production of growth hormone.

Try to avoid the main mistake that inexperienced gardeners make. Do not fertilize dry soil, otherwise the plant may suffer so-called “salt shock.” Use a double watering system, that is, first water the soil well and only then use fertilizers.

Advised by the chief specialist of the flower farming service of Sokolniki Park, Yulia MOROZOVA

In July, an orchard most of all needs moisture, fertilizing and protection of fruit trees from pests.

Watering the garden

It is especially important to water the plants during intensive growth and formation of ovaries, as well as during the period of fruit filling. In addition, watering is needed immediately after harvesting. The soil is moistened to the depth of the root layer. Irrigation is carried out during the dry period every 18-20 days in the amount of 50-60 l/m².

Feeding fruit trees in July

If the weather is dry, you first need to thoroughly water the soil, then with a solution of organic fertilizers - manure or bird droppings. Fill half a bucket of manure with 5 liters of water, and bird droppings with 10 liters. Let it brew for 5 days. And then pour it into the grooves along the edge of the crown projection. A bucket of fertilizing is used for 2 meters of furrow.

Instead of organic fertilizers, you can use mineral fertilizers: 1 tablespoon of urea, superphosphate and potassium salt per bucket of water. In order not to overfeed the trees, no more than 2 buckets of fertilizer are consumed per 2 m² of tree trunk circle.

By the end of July, watering of young trees should be stopped so that their wood has time to ripen by winter. For the same purpose, stop feeding with nitrogen fertilizers (they stimulate active growth shoots).

Foliar feeding of fruit trees

At the beginning of the month, carry out foliar feeding with liquid fertilizer: 30 g of urea, 20 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water.

15-30 days after the first, a second foliar feeding with phosphorus and potassium is carried out with the addition of microelements.

Foliar fertilizing with superphosphate will also help improve the shelf life of fruits.

Retaining soil moisture

Not only watering the garden is very important - when and how much water needs to be added to the soil, it is important to take measures to preserve moisture in the soil.

Such activities, first of all, are weeding the garden from weeds, loosening tree trunk circles, between rows and the ground around bushes, especially after rains and watering, as well as mulching is a universal method for preserving soil moisture and controlling weeds.

The soil under the mulch always retains moisture, even on the hottest days. Microflora and other soil inhabitants, in particular earthworms, develop well in it.

In the garden in July it is necessary to renew the mulch around the fruit trees. Mulch can be any crushed organic matter - weeds, grass clippings, straw, old leaves, as well as humus, compost, sawdust, peat. Layed in a layer of 5-6 cm, they all protect the soil from drying out and overheating, creating favorable conditions for root activity.

Young garden in July

IN young garden in the first half of the month, strong shoots are pinched to later transform them into semi-skeletal and overgrown branches.

At the end of July, the shoots of young trees are pinched, the growth of which must be completed for better ripening of the wood.

If the shoots have finished growing, you can begin bending and tying up strong annual branches to speed up fruiting. In dry summers, the garden needs to be watered. The number and depend on precipitation, soil, and its moisture.

Protecting your garden from pests in July

Pears And apple trees in early July it is necessary to treat scab in the garden and on trees cherries, affected by moniliosis, cut out the dead branches and be sure to burn them.

To destroy the copperhead, dousing the crowns of trees with a strong stream of water from a hose is effective; you can treat it with an infusion of garlic or an infusion of capsicum. If the trees are heavily affected by copperhead, then treat them with fufanon.

In July apple tree a second wave of the codling moth is also threatening. According to observations, the butterflies of the 2nd generation of codling moths fly from the second week of July to the first days of August. If a codling moth has entered the fruit, then the carrion must be collected daily, since the caterpillar crawls out of the fallen fruit overnight, crawls onto the tree and harms other fruits. It is also recommended to remove damaged fruits.

Anti-moths are treated with an infusion of pepper or wormwood. If there are a lot of pests, they use chemicals.

With the appearance of carrion, trapping belts made of burlap or corrugated paper 10-15 cm wide, soaked in a 1% chlorophos solution, are placed on the lower part of the tree trunk. The belts are tied with twine so that the edges are slightly protruding and the caterpillars can crawl into them. The remainder of the solution from soaking the hunting belts is sprayed or doused on the bark on the boles against codling moth caterpillars.

Treatment against these and other pests is allowed to be carried out no later than 20 days before harvest, so that no pesticides remain on the fruit by the time of harvest.

Supports for fruit tree branches

Preparations for the summer fruit harvest begin in the garden in July. Remove ovaries that look underdeveloped, and remove excess ones from those growing in bunches.

To avoid branches breaking off under the weight of the fruit, the crowns are supported. It is necessary to make strong, lightweight supports with a fork at the top; the lower end of the pole is sharpened for better entry into the ground. A layer of soft fabric or moss is placed on the fork to avoid abrasions on the branch bark.

The branch with the harvest is placed on the fork of the support. The lower sharp end of the support is inserted into the ground, making sure that the support with the branch does not wobble.

In order for the branches that broke off under the harvest to grow together, they are combined and firmly fastened.

Harvesting early fruits

In the middle of the month they begin to ripen cherries, cherries, and by the end of July - early varieties cherry plums And drain. To scare away birds, strips of foil and strips of plastic film are hung on branches. Most reliable way- covering the branches with nets with cells of 3-5 cm.

At the end of July during the hot summer, summer varieties begin to ripen pears And apples. Summer varieties They don't last long, so have them on hand summer cottage V large quantities does not make sense; you can graft several early varieties into the crown of one tree.

Caring for the future harvest

In July, bud formation begins for next year's harvest. This time coincides with the growth and ripening of fruits, so it is very important to support the tree with timely watering and good fertilizing. Drought and weakened nutrition during this period disrupt the process of laying flower buds, and a sharp decrease, or even absence of harvest for the next year.

In order for the apple tree to bear fruit annually, it is recommended to shorten or pinch out young shoots in lean years, and to artificially reduce abundant fruiting to moderate fruiting in productive years.

Budding of fruit trees

In the third ten days of July they begin budding (summer grafting with a sleeping eye) plums, cherries, and then pears, apple trees. For budding, you need a pencil-thin rootstock - a wildflower - and cuttings of the desired variety - scions. To better guarantee survival rate, budding is performed with two eyes on different sides of the wild bird.

Green cuttings

At the beginning of the month they continue what they started in June green cuttings currants and others, continue green cuttings rhododendrons and others ornamental plants. Propagates well from fruit trees cherry green cuttings, more difficult - pear, and doesn’t want to at all - Apple tree.

Green cuttings are harvested and planted in greenhouses and greenhouses, and already rooted cuttings are hardened off.

An orchard in July requires a lot of attention from the gardener, both for the formation of the current harvest and for next year’s harvest; check your work in the garden with the lunar sowing calendar for July so that your work is more effective.