Like a queen on a chessboard, the rose “rules the show” in the flower kingdom. Its noble beauty can enliven a green lawn or a blank fence wall, and bring it into the landscape design of a garden plot. bright accents. There is an opinion that there are many problems associated with growing roses. In fact, creating a garden rose garden is a task that is quite feasible for everyone. And we invite you to talk about some nuances and wisdom today.

So, you have decided to create a rose garden with your own hands, but you don’t know how to approach this difficult task. First of all, decide which area of ​​the garden you would like to devote to setting up your rose garden. There are a huge number of options for, but you need to pay attention to the fact that the place for planting the flower garden is sunny, windless, with fertile soil. When forming a rose garden, you should avoid swampy and damp areas of the garden, as well as areas in the shade of trees or buildings. As for the soil, the most successful soil for planting roses is considered to be light loam with an acidity level of 5-6 pH.

Climbing roses look impressive on the facade and in the design of the entrance lobby country house

A flowerbed of geometric roses will be favorably emphasized by a low border of evergreen shrubs

Abundantly blooming rose gardens in a summer cottage can be planted freely, emphasizing the naturalness of the garden, or geometrically, following a clearly thought-out plan. You can plant roses in a group on the lawn or near a pond, arrange with roses hedge along the perimeter of the garden or arrange it in a flowerbed. A rosary of low-growing flowers will become great solution to create a border inside summer cottage, A climbing varieties roses will favorably highlight the architecture of a gazebo or pergola, and hide an inconspicuous wall of a house or fence.

Even a single standard rose planted in the form of a tree or a spreading bush of hybrid tea rose can transform the landscape of a dacha. Tall park roses will fit perfectly into the design of the entrance to the site or add solemnity to the long alley leading to the house. Roses will become a truly royal decoration for any corner of your garden plot, adding the missing “zest” to its appearance and filling your garden with a delicate fragrance.

Drawing up diagrams and breakdown plans

When choosing a rose garden planting scheme, pay attention to the color scheme of rose blooms and dilute its diversity with perennials or evergreen shrubs. Conifers or ferns will not only create an advantageous backdrop for viewing the rose garden, but will also add picturesqueness to this corner of the dacha when the roses fade. Some ideas on how to decorate your own rosary on garden plot in the form of group planting of roses, you can learn from the diagrams below.

When planting roses in a group, you need to think about which perennial and evergreen plants will highlight their beauty.

On initial stage when creating a rose garden, it will be useful to draw a sketch of the placement of roses in a group

A rose garden created from a combination of white or cream roses with perennials and blooming lilac inflorescences looks original.

The planning diagram of the rose garden will help to mark out the area allocated for the arrangement of the flower garden

Stages of formation of a rosary

If you are wondering how you can make a rose garden with your own hands, you should definitely pay close attention to preparing the soil for its improvement. The properties and composition of the soil play a significant role when creating a rose garden, because the rose, as befits royalty, is quite capricious and capricious.

Preparing the soil for planting roses involves draining and fertilizing the planting hole

The most unfavorable soil for planting roses is heavy clay soil, which will require drainage to remove excess moisture from the plant. Coarse sand, expanded clay or gravel are most often used as drainage materials. Dry sandy soil is also unsuitable for a rose garden - it must be fertilized with a mixture of clay and humus. If the soil in the garden plot is fertile, a hole for planting roses is formed to such a depth as to fit root system bush. If the soil is not very good in its properties, then a hole is dug deeper and wider in diameter, and its bottom is sprinkled with drainage or fertilized.

Planting a rose seedling consists of the following stages: preparing the hole, pruning the seedling, filling the roots, compacting and watering the soil

Once a place to create a rose garden has been chosen and a layout scheme has been thought out, it takes about 2-3 months to prepare the soil for planting roses. Considering that autumn is the best time for planting roses, approximately in the middle of summer, the area of ​​the garden chosen for the formation of a rose garden is dug up to a depth of about 60 cm and the top layer of soil is loosened. Then, the soil is fertilized with mineral and organic fertilizers. In a couple of months, the earth will settle, excess moisture will evaporate from it, it will be saturated with useful substances and acquire the optimal composition for the development of the rose garden.

When choosing a location for a rose garden near a country house, make sure that this area of ​​the garden is not shaded and is well lit by the sun

A border of low-growing roses planted along its perimeter will give a bright frame to the green lawn.

It is important to know! As organic fertilizers for roses the following are used: rotted manure, peat, humus, compost - at the rate of 10 kg of fertilizer per 1 square meter of land. A mixture of mineral fertilizers suitable for roses and sufficient for 1 m3 of soil: 70 grams of superphosphate, 30 grams ammonium nitrate, 20 grams of potassium chloride.

General landing rules

In order for the rose garden at your dacha to delight you with its blooms, you must adhere to some rules for planting it. Before planting, the root system of roses is moistened and broken or damaged ends are trimmed. The above-ground part of the bush is shortened, leaving 1-3 of the most powerful shoots without leaves, shoots and color. In the designated areas of the garden plot, holes are dug for planting, taking into account the length of the root system of the roses.

Planting roses in ceramic pots will simplify the creation of a garden rose garden and give the terrace adjacent to the lawn a unique flavor

During planting, the rose seedling must be held strictly vertically and ensure that the tips of the roots do not bend upward. To do this, the seedling is periodically shaken so that the planting mixture is evenly distributed, filling the space between the shoots of the rhizome.

Ground-cover roses with miniature inflorescences, planted around an artificial pond, will create a voluminous and colorful frame for it

A multi-colored rose garden will look good against the backdrop of a green grass lawn

It is important to know! The planting density of roses is selected based on the expected height and width of the bush and is: 25-50 cm for miniature, dwarf and floribunda roses; 60-100 cm for hybrid tea and low-growing park roses; 1-1.5 m for standard and weakly growing climbing roses; 2-3 m for tall park, weeping standard and fast-growing climbing roses.

After planting, the soil around the bush is carefully crushed with feet, then loosened a little, watered abundantly and hilled to a height of about 20 cm with peat or sawdust so that aboveground shoots were completely covered. It is recommended to plant roses in the fall, from October until frost sets in.

After wintering - in the spring, roses are pruned and sprinkled with tree bark or wet peat. Subsequently, when the shoots reach a height of 5 cm, it is recommended to re-hill the roses and mulch the soil with an 8-centimeter layer of peat or humus.

Preparing rose seedlings for planting

When preparing a rose for transplanting from a container, it is necessary to moisten the soil well so that the earthen lump does not crumble when removed. In order to plant a rose grown in a plastic pot, you need to cut it, remove the lump and, without destroying it, place it in a pre-dug hole for planting. A hole for a rose from a container is dug approximately 10 cm wider and higher than its dimensions. The resulting gaps after moving the rose from the container to the hole are filled with a mixture of garden soil and peat so that the upper surface of the earthen ball is equal to the ground level on the site.

Before planting, the root system and shoots of the rose seedling must be trimmed

When roses for a rose garden are purchased as seedlings, the root system of the flower may dry out and freeze. If the plant is frozen, it is necessary to bury it in the open ground for a couple of days before planting. If the rose roots are too dry, you need to place them in water 10 hours before planting. Immediately before planting, the roots of the rose are trimmed to 30 cm, removing spoiled shoots, and the above-ground part is shortened, leaving a couple of strong shoots. The roots of the seedling can be treated with a clay-manure liquid mixture to provide the rose with additional nutrition until it takes root.

Planting certain types of rose gardens

Some types of rose gardens require specific preparation of the planting site, depending on the design of the flower garden and the types of roses used for its arrangement.

A rose garden of park roses will give the central alley a solemn and elegant look

Planting standard roses

Standard roses are planted in the rose garden, like a tapeworm - an accent plant that differs from others in size and color scheme. A hole for planting a standard rose is dug according to the same principle as for a bushy one - based on the size of the rhizome. To prevent the standard tree from breaking due to gusts of wind, a wooden stake is buried at a distance of 10 cm from it, on the leeward side, and a rose trunk is tied to it. The stake is selected with a diameter of 2 to 4 cm and a height equal to the tree trunk to the base of the crown plus 50-70 cm. It is advisable to treat the underground part of the stake with an antiseptic to prevent wood rotting and drive it to a depth of about 50 cm into a hole prepared for planting the rose.

The rope intended for tying a standard tree must be tarred and secured with an 8-shaped loop in three places on the rose trunk - near the ground, in the middle of the trunk and at the base of the crown. To protect the trunk of the tree from damage by the rope, it is wrapped with scraps of burlap in the areas where the loops are placed. An elastic fastener specially designed for such purposes will greatly simplify the procedure of gartering a rose.

Standard roses, which are small flowering trees, are good both in a group and individually

A secluded seating area with a bench can be formed using a hedge of roses and standard trees

Planting a hedge of roses

Shrub or climbing roses look great planted as a hedge, formed either around the perimeter of the garden plot or inside it - to divide into zones, for example, to create a border between a commercial area and a place for recreation. To arrange a single-row hedge inside the garden, low-growing roses with a height of less than 1 meter are most often used - and the distance between the bushes should be 50-70 mm.

A lushly blooming climbing rose bush will brighten up the monotony of the fence of a summer cottage

A multi-row hedge of roses usually consists of two or three tiers, with lower roses sitting in the foreground, then medium-sized ones (1-1.5 m), and the tallest ones (more than 1.5 m) forming the background adjacent to the main fence. It is necessary to ensure that the row of roses closest to the fence or other building is placed 30-50 cm from the wall. During this planting, the roots of roses must be distributed in such a way that they “go” in the opposite direction from the building.

Rosary created under the walls country house, is able to decorate even the most inconspicuous building

When planting roses in multi-row hedges, they adhere to a checkerboard pattern with a distance between bushes approximately equal to half their height. To plant a rose garden on a summer cottage in the form of a hedge, they do not dig separate holes for each bush, but a trench about 50 cm deep and a width depending on the number of rows in the hedge. It is advisable to loosen the bottom of the trench with a pitchfork and cover it with a layer of planting mixture consisting of peat and garden soil taken in equal parts. To plant a hedge, it is best to take 2-3-year-old rose seedlings with a well-developed root system.

Planting roses in the spring begins after the soil has thoroughly warmed up and warm weather has established for working with open ground. It is undesirable to plant roses in May, since warming and possible droughts prevent the normal rooting of seedlings. If more late boarding the risk of rather slow plant development and poor flowering of roses in the first year increases. Early planting in the spring involves maximum rooting of shoots with two or three buds left at the root collar. This will stimulate dormant buds and cause their active development.

Planting roses in spring. How to plant a rose

Ornamental roses, if they are grafted onto rose hips, are not too picky about the soil. Self-rooted roses require more attention. Before planting, you need to update the root sections, cutting them to 18-20 cm, and remove dried roots to living tissue.

Then dig holes up to 30 cm deep, and mix the excavated soil thoroughly with rotted manure (10 parts soil to 1 part manure). Next, the roots are placed in the hole, distributed freely and evenly.

The root collar should be at the level of the top layer of soil. The roots are sprinkled with loose soil up to half the hole, watered with water to compact it. Then the soil is filled to ground level, the vertical position of the plant is adjusted and the level of the root collar is checked.

After this, the soil can be slightly compacted and watered again. After complete absorption of moisture, the surface of the hole is mulched with dry soil. This will prevent moisture from evaporating intensively and protect the roots from drying out.

The most favorable time Planting roses in the country is spring; depending on the weather, either the end of April or the beginning of May is suitable. Roses are heat-loving plants and require warm soil.

Autumn planting is risky in our area because some of the planted bushes will not be able to take root well and will die in the frost. But the soil for spring planting of roses is prepared in the fall. At the dacha plot, they dig holes half a meter in diameter and the same depth.

At the bottom, drainage is arranged in several layers. Small stones and expanded clay are suitable for its construction. This layer is covered with sand on top (up to 10 cm). On wet, heavy soils at the dacha, drainage is strictly necessary.

Roses do not like excessive dampness. It is recommended to put organic matter on the sand layer - rotten grass (without seeds!), leaves, dust from aged trees. All this will be useful as a wonderful fertilizer for roses.

The top and last layer (about 25 cm) can be covered with the same soil, cleared of weeds, or peat. It is advisable to pay attention to the acidity of the soil in the country. Roses love neutral or slightly acidic soil.

If your dacha has acidic soil, it’s a good idea to add ash to the peat. dolomite flour(1/1). Neutral soil can be diluted with fertilizers.

A planting hole for a rose bush will require superphosphate, organic matter, potash fertilizers in the proportion of 25 g / 7 kg / 10 g. When starting planting, it is necessary to carefully inspect the roots: damaged areas are cut off directly to living tissue, good roots are left approximately 20 cm long. The bush should also be trimmed: dry, weak shoots are cut out completely, strong ones they leave 6 buds, and for medium ones - 3. When planting, be sure to cover the grafting site with a layer of soil of 5-7 cm.

Then the ground around rose bush it is necessary to compact it and water the planting itself (at least 1 bucket of water per bush). To protect seedlings from bright spring rays, you can use non-woven material.

When the heat sets in and the ground in the dacha has completely warmed up, remove the shelter and unplant the shoots. The size of the shoots by this time reaches 5 cm. For stimulation good growth When planting roses, the tops of the shoots are trimmed.

When planting roses in the autumn at the dacha, the pits should be prepared in advance (1-1.5 months). Climbing roses are planted near the support and deeper.

Caring for climbing roses: replanting, choosing a pot, planting and watering. It’s not enough to plant roses, you need to grow them according to the rules of agricultural technology. And growing roses is a troublesome task, including fertilizing, pruning, watering, and sheltering from frost for the winter.

Two days after planting, the soil around the seedlings is loosened very carefully, trying not to touch the roots. Next, hill up with earth (up to 10 cm). As soon as the buds begin to grow, the soil is removed from the shoots. Now is the time to feed the roses with complex fertilizer.

The amount of fertilizer should not be more than 20 g/bush. Repeated feeding is organized in mid-summer. This is necessary for abundant full flowering of roses. It is very useful to carry out every two years spring feeding rose bushes with a little manure.

When growing rose bushes in the country, pinching shoots makes it possible to adjust the flowering time of roses.

About the intricacies of watering

Roses need to be watered weekly. The best time to water roses is evening and early morning. During periods of shoot formation, as well as during flowering, watering is done abundantly.

But you should avoid getting the leaves wet. Even when planting, you should form a rose bush around it. earthen roller. This will help prevent water from spreading in the future. And after watering, as the soil dries out, it is necessary to loosen the soil around the roses, since the roots of the plant need oxygen.

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How to overcome diseases

To grow roses productively, you should learn all the problems inherent in them. All plants, including roses, are susceptible to disease and damage from various pests. In the spring, they begin to protect roses from aphids by spraying young shoots with an insecticide once every 3 weeks.

From a disease with a name powdery mildew V growing season rose bushes are sprayed with fungicides. If roses are infected with black spot or rust, the affected leaves must be removed and the plants sprayed with products containing copper and zinc. Quite early in the spring, for the purpose of prevention, it is best to treat rose bushes with a fungicide specially invented for roses.

Features of cultivation

Dried rose flowers should be picked. This is necessary for the appearance of new buds on the bushes and lengthening the flowering period. It happens that many buds are tied on one shoot.

But to obtain a large flower, everything is removed except the central one. In a similar way, shoots from the lower buds of the stem are removed, because they will retard the growth and full development of the central shoot. Strong young rose shoots at a height of 30 cm are pruned because they enhance the formation of side shoots. Light green barren bushes should be removed completely.

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Trimming

There is no growing rose without pruning. Bushes are heavily pruned after a hard winter, leaving the plant with shoots consisting of only a few buds. This is how the rose is renewed.

Moderate pruning of a rose is marked by leaving 6 buds on the stem; if it is weak, the plant is left with 12 buds on the shoot. This type of work is performed with pruning shears. It is worth keeping an eye on the cleanliness and sharpness of its blades. It is better to start pruning from the very base of the bush.

Smooth cuts are made at an angle of 45 degrees above the bud, 7 mm. To ensure that the rose continues to decorate the dacha, the cuts are covered with garden varnish. The dacha can receive additional decorative effect by giving the rose bushes an attractive shape.

When pruning, excess shoots that can only thicken the bush are removed. In the spring, while the rose is still dormant, or before winter shelter, pruning is done. It is necessary to completely cut out the dried old stems, along with them, sick and weak.

Then the dacha will always please the eye thanks to healthy, beautiful rose bushes. Without any regret, shoots that grow from the trunk below the graft are removed. Otherwise, the rose risks degenerating into a wild rose hip. With the approach of cold weather, it is necessary to cover the roses.

Now there are acclimatized varieties that can do without such care. But growing roses is not easy, and frosts vary. It is important not to miss the time for shelter. If you rush, the roots may simply rot.

They can also rot or dry out from excessively warm wrapping. You should not cover roses with spruce branches or branches - this way they risk dying in March. Peat, sawdust, even loose soil are suitable for covering. Covering should be done correctly.

The shoots are bent to the ground individually or tied to the entire bush. Arches or another frame are placed above the bent rose bush. Both reinforcement and metal-plastic are suitable. Cover the top with spunbond, possibly in several layers, pressing the edges of the material to the soil.

The top of such a frame can be protected from precipitation with polyethylene, secured with clothespins. The main thing is to dismantle the structure in time (no later than March). In order for the dacha to delight with rose blooms for a long time, varieties with different flowering periods are selected.

The dacha provides extraordinary space for realizing the most daring ideas. The process of growing roses is fascinating and addictive.

Having mastered the intricacies of growing one variety, gardeners are busy with a new one. The dacha of true rose lovers eventually becomes a fragrant paradise, where hybrid tea roses populate flower beds and borders, and climbing varieties decorate arches and walls. Growing roses, given the availability of more than 20 thousand varieties, is an endless task.

How and when to plant roses correctly in a flower garden at the dacha

The best time for planting is of course spring and autumn. In spring, it is better to plant roses in the ground from early to mid-April until the end of May, when the soil thaws and warms up to 10-12 degrees.

Choosing a place to plant roses

The flowering, growth and development of roses is significantly influenced by the thermal regime of air and soil. Roses grow best at an air temperature of +15-22 degrees and do not like stagnant air and drafts. It is better not to plant roses in a low place, it is especially dangerous high level groundwater.

It is better to plant roses in a place where they are not exposed to direct sunlight all day long. You need to choose places where the plants are slightly shaded in the midday heat. Roses should not be planted densely - this leads to the development of diseases and problems in care.

Planting roses should be such that it is easy to tie the shoots, bend them down and cover the bushes for the winter when necessary. If the soil at your dacha or plot is fertile, holes are dug to the depth of the roots plus 5-10 centimeters. With a root length of 35 centimeters, it is recommended to make the depth of the planting hole for roses 45-50 cm and the width about 50 centimeters.

In new, non-depleted areas, the top layer of soil (approximately a spade's worth) is used to prepare a soil mixture with which the holes are filled during planting. If the soil on the site is clayey, the holes are made even deeper - 60-70 centimeters.

Preparing rose seedlings

Before planting, inspect the seedlings, remove broken and weak branches, as well as damaged roots. All roots need to be shortened to 30-35 cm. If seedlings arrive with cut roots, the cuts need to be renewed.

At spring planting The shoots should be shortened and 2-3 buds should be left for hybrid tea and low-growing polyanthus roses, and 3-4 buds for floribunda roses. In addition, tall roses for early flowering shoots are shortened by 10-15 cm, for climbing roses of the “Rambler” group - both during spring and autumn planting - up to 30-35 cm.

Ground cover roses do not need pruning, you just need to update the root sections. In climbing large-flowered roses. park, semi-climbing, scrubs, you need to slightly shorten the roots and remove weak and damaged shoot tips.

When planting in autumn, the shoots of seedlings of all groups are only slightly shortened. If the seedlings were purchased early in the spring and unfavorable weather conditions do not allow them to be planted in open ground, then you can save them in basement or in the refrigerator, where the temperature does not exceed +7 °C. The root system of all seedlings must be soaked in water for 2 hours before planting.

It is advisable to add “Kornevin” or other root-forming regulators and growth stimulants (humates). Dried seedlings that have suffered from improper storage should be soaked for 12 hours.

The closed root system should not be unpacked; you just need to fill the roots with water up to the stem directly in the package. Severely dried seedlings are immersed in water completely with stems. After this procedure, the seedlings look refreshed, and the turgor of the stems noticeably increases.

Now the roses can be planted in a permanent place.

How to plant roses correctly - step-by-step instructions for a summer resident

1. Seedlings are planted at air temperatures from 0 to +7 °C. Before planting, they are stored in dark, cool chalk, and the roots are moistened once every two weeks. Planting holes are prepared in advance. The standard pit depth is 45-50 cm, width is 50 cm. On heavy clay soils The holes are dug deeper - 60-70 cm. A mixture of soil and rotted organic matter (manure, compost, humus) is placed at the bottom of the hole. Fertilizers are not placed under the root, trying to avoid their contact with the roots. For better nutrition of the grove, before planting, the tips of the root need to be cut by 1-2 cm (renew the cut) and soak the root for 2 hours in water, adding “Kornevin” there. Plant the seedling like this so that the graft is buried 5-10 centimeters below ground level. In the place where it is buried in the ground, you must first clean the wax. Tamp the soil around the seedling well and water it generously to remove any remaining air around the roots and ensure direct contact of the roots with the soil. Cover the seedling with damp soil almost completely for 2 weeks, making a small mound out of the soil. After 2 weeks, when the rose has taken root, the soil can be removed. Now prune the planted rose in accordance with the recommendations for this species or variety.

Planting roses (click on photo to enlarge)

Below are other entries on the topic “Do-it-yourself cottage and garden”

Growing roses

The rose, despite its royal beauty, is a rather unpretentious plant. Just water and fertilize on time. Yes, so that there is sunshine... In order for your plant to grow without problems and not require constant fussing around it, you should start by choosing a high-quality seedling.

Numerous nurseries and private owners offer a huge assortment planting material all kinds of colors and varieties. We offer roses that are rooted, grown from cuttings, or grafted onto rose hips.

Self-rooted ones are more resistant to drying out or cold, they can more easily tolerate transplantation and cope with diseases. When buying a seedling with an open root system, be sure to ask the seller to make cuts on the main roots of the plant to check whether it is alive. It is better to plant roses in late autumn, so that over the winter they will form a root system and be ready for budding.

Roses planted in spring should not be allowed to bloom for the first year, giving them the opportunity to strengthen the roots and form a bush. The purchased plant needs to be soaked in a clay mash or root for a day.

This is important for maintaining the plant while it gets used to the soil and for saturating it with moisture. A seedling is placed in a pre-prepared and spilled hole on a small hump. The root system is expanding.

It is better to deepen the root collar of grafted plants by 3-5 centimeters. This will give the variety the opportunity to recover if its above-ground part freezes in winter.

Having covered the roots with soil, you must water them well so that the soil fills all the voids between the roots. Rose is a very sun-loving plant. As a last resort, she will allow herself to bloom in an area where the sun appears only before lunch.

In the shade, the plant may not produce buds or will bloom little. Roses of light color or from the group of so-called blue roses It is advisable to plant in partial shade; under direct rays, their color quickly fades and loses all attractiveness. The rose is a big “water-bread”.

But her love for water is like that of a camel - rare, but apt. You shouldn’t water the plant every day, it’s better to put a bucket under the bush two or three times a week. She also does not like soil that is compacted or overgrown with weeds.

Weeding saturates the soil with oxygen, which this beauty really likes. The most annoying pest of the plant is aphids. It covers the young shoots of branches and buds and feeds on their juices. If aphids are not dealt with, the shoots will die and flowering will not occur.

There are special insecticides to combat them, but if there are not very many rose bushes, it is better to spray the plants with a soap solution. Aphids especially do not like liquid soap. Rose bushes need to be fertilized once every two weeks until mid-July nitrogen fertilizers, after potassium and phosphorus.

During the budding period, the plant should be pampered with a full range of mineral fertilizers with microelements. Fertilizer is applied only to moist soil.

For faster and more abundant re-blooming, dry buds must be removed from the bush, cutting off the stem before the first five-leaf leaf. By winter, after flowering, the rose is pruned. This is necessary for better wintering.

In spring, such a rose will grow stronger and produce denser growth. This rule does not apply to climbing roses; their shoots are not shortened, but only old and damaged ones are removed. The optimal cutting distance is 30-35 centimeters above the ground.

If the plant has not dropped all its leaves by the first frost, you need to remove them yourself. In winter, the rose is covered with soil or sand at the base to preserve the roots. Before covering, plants should be treated against fungus.

Cover roses at the first light frost and only if the stems are dry. Climbing plants bend to the ground and also take cover. There is no need to place them on the ground to avoid damping off of the stems.

You cannot cover roses with organic matter - leaves or grass. Over the winter it will rot and ruin the plants.

Growing roses

Planting Roses: the right actions

The best time for planting roses is undoubtedly autumn, but so that there are at least 2-3 weeks left before the onset of winter, then they take root in the fall, winter well in early spring, begin to grow, and have time to get stronger and gain color before the onset of heat. Before planting roses, you need to carefully inspect them and remove broken shoots, leaving 3-5 buds in total.

The seedlings that we cut are immersed in a solution of clay and humus (1 to 1), now they will take root better and the formation of roots will go faster. Cut rose seedlings up to the root collar are immersed in a solution made of clay and humus. We prune before planting. 5 kg of humus, 20 grams of nitrogen and 16 grams of potassium and phosphorus fertilizers are added to the hole and everything is thoroughly mixed with the soil. Hole for planting roses 30-40 cm.

In total, the holes are not dug individually, but a continuous trench is made, the depth and width of which is 40 cm. Now comes planting, which means that planting in the fall is better. Additions are welcome.

Beautiful garden decoration with roses (photo)

It is believed that the rose itself is a decoration and does not need company. But the “queen”, as the rose is recognized, needs a “retinue” in garden design, where it is dominant, and this is not at all a bad option for the overall decorative perception.

If you are a big rose lover, you should create a rose garden in your garden. It is set up in a large open ground area. It is an independent composition that emphasizes the beauty of your site.

When decorating a garden with roses, the rose garden is laid in a regular or landscape style in the form of a huge flower garden, which is dissected by paths into separate sectors. A fountain, pool, sculptures, vases, arches, trellises, pergolas, etc. can be included in the overall composition of the rose garden layout.

As you can see in the photo, for roses in landscape design, the main background on which these plants are placed in appropriate groups can be a lawn:

Roses in landscape design in the photo

Roses in the overall garden composition in the photo (photo)

Evergreens and deciduous shrubs are used to highlight and emphasize individual details.

In the rose garden you can imagine all groups of roses: border roses, and even potted roses. The goal of displaying the largest assortment of roses in landscape design should not be set. It is necessary to carefully consider and select groups and varieties of plants in such a way as to obtain the greatest decorative effect in the created colorful and voluminous composition.

Before you decorate your rose garden beautifully, decide on the shape and size of the groups. They are determined depending on the scale and nature of the layout of the rose garden; At the same time, the requirements for winter protection must be taken into account. The latter makes it necessary to plant roses in relatively small isolated groups of a simple configuration. Volumetric groups are created from hybrid tea and remontant roses in the background. Polyanthus roses should be planted in the foreground in garden landscape design, as they are distinguished by the most abundant and long-lasting flowering. The edge of the rose garden is lined with border roses. If the site has a slope oriented to the south or west, it is appropriate to plant ground cover roses.

Pay attention to the photo - when decorating an area with roses, taking into account the biological and decorative characteristics of these plants, you should not mix groups of rose bushes in plantings:

Along with roses, perennials should also be planted in the rose garden, which will replenish flowering in the early spring and serve as a backdrop for displaying the decorative merits of roses.

Before you start designing a site, you need to carefully think through and weigh everything.

First, you need to assess the capabilities of the area, its illumination, soil conditions, and size. In the design of the site, roses should be given both a bright place protected from the wind and a sufficient amount of nutrition - they suffer if, for example, a tree growing nearby takes away from them nutrients and creates shadow. Other roses planted too close may also become competitors. Therefore, it is very important to foresee such moments in advance.

As for the design approach, the use of roses provides the broadest possibilities. This is a universal plant for design, and thanks to the huge number of species and varieties, everyone can find their own option that will make the site uniquely beautiful.

The video “Roses in Landscape Design” shows what beautiful compositions can be composed with these shrubs:

Roses in the design of your garden are always welcome guests in flower beds, flowerbeds, and mixborders. They are used to cover unsightly areas of brick or wooden walls, trees, trellises. Roses are planted in rock gardens and alpine hills, as hedges, as accent plants (especially in standard form) and as ground cover plants. Planted in containers, they will certainly become a decoration for your home or patio.

Look at the photo - hybrid tea roses in the design of a summer cottage are mainly planted in flower beds, in mixborders and borders:

Hybrid tea roses in the design of a summer cottage in the photo

Hybrid tea roses are planted in flower beds (photo)

Recently it has become fashionable to grow them in standard form as single plants.

When designing a flower bed, floribunda roses add color to the garden. Tall varieties are used to create hedges, while dwarf varieties (recently allocated to a separate group of patio roses) are used to decorate borders and as a container culture. The use of roses in flower beds in site design is justified both in landscape and regular planning.

As shown in the photo, climbing roses when decorating a garden provide enormous scope for realizing the ideas of a true artist:

Having the ability to climb vertical surfaces, they cover large spaces in a short time, which makes them indispensable for draping walls, trees, trellises, etc. In addition, climbing roses are used for backstage plantings, decorating arches and garden gazebos. Baskets made of climbing roses with a high handle, which are braided with shoots completely covered with flowers, look impressive.

Look at the photo - ground cover roses can play a big role in garden design:

Quickly forming a dense carpet of stems and leaves, they prevent the growth of weeds and at the same time play a decorative role - they hide unevenness and other imperfections in the landscape. Ground cover roses are also good in rockeries, to which they give a natural look.

Miniature roses are used mainly as houseplants. But they can also be used as a border. A new word in landscape design is growing roses in rock gardens. But here care comes first, since the feeding area will be small.

As you can see in the photo, park roses in the landscape design of a summer cottage are mainly used to create hedges:

Also, park roses can be included in decorative garden groups consisting of trees and shrubs.

Knowing which plants to plant with roses in landscape design, when correct selection varieties and companion plants, you can create a wonderful mixborder. And in the spring, while rose bushes have not yet reached the peak of decorativeness, early-flowering bulbous plants - crocuses, snowdrops, scylla, muscaria, etc. - can bloom between them. In the summer, the beauty of roses will not be hindered by ageratum, aubrieta, and rezuha.

Genetically, roses are programmed to live a very long life. An example of this is wild roses (rose hips), whose lifespan is estimated at 500 years.

Cultivated roses, of course, live much shorter - up to 25-50 years, and if not enough favorable conditions and even less - 10-15 years.

And in order to prolong the life of your favorite roses, enjoying their beauty, drawing strength and vigor from them, using their healing gifts, you must, in addition to proper care, correctly arrange and combine them with other plants.

A rose lover should know that all the colorful variety requires a certain system when planting.

Look at the photo - when designing flower beds with rose varieties, you need to have uniform spots, which should include at least 3 bushes:

Design of flower beds with roses in the photo

Flower beds of roses in the photo

At the same time, the overall picture of the rose garden looks like areas of pure white, pure pink, pure red or yellow roses. Mixing different colors in one spot is unacceptable.

In addition, homogeneous spots should match each other in color. So, orange, purple, and pink roses do not go well with red ones.

Red roses in garden design can be separated from the same pink ones by white or cream ones.

Red color is classically combined with green, blue, lilac. Accepted combinations are light pink with light blue, purple with yellow and orange, blue with white.

The video “Roses in landscape garden design” shows ideas for placing these plants on the site:

The next point when placing roses in the garden is the selection of separate groups in different functional areas of the garden. So, in the front part of the garden you need to place hybrid tea and remontant roses. Their nobility of form, richness of color and aroma create the impression of beauty and dignity, artistic taste and harmony.

Red roses in a dacha design look good along the white wall of the house. They are cozy and sentimental here.

Roses should not be planted in the center of the lawn, as they will not only make it difficult to care for the lawn, but will also interfere with the feeling of peace that comes from the greenery of the lawn.

A group of polyanthus roses blooming all summer long is irreplaceable in relaxation corners, along the paths at the entrance to the gazebo, under the bedroom window.

Pay attention to the photo - polyanthus roses in the landscape design of the garden can border the roads of the site as a border, but for this you need to choose only low varieties:

Polyanthus roses in garden landscape design in the photo

Polyanthus roses in the photo

If you have flower beds in your garden where you want to place roses, then keep in mind that for roses they should not be oval, but rectangular. It is advisable that one variety be planted, then your flowerbed will acquire the status of solidity and splendor. Since you will have cutting material from the same flowerbed, use a group of hybrid tea and remontant roses.

We should not forget about wild roses. They delight us with beautiful fragrant, abundant inflorescences and bright fruits.

There will be a place for them along the boundaries of the site, where they will also serve a protective function as an impassable fence. In addition, this is an excellent place for nesting birds. And the abundance of birds in the garden means a sharp decline in numbers.

As shown in the photo, climbing roses are indispensable in site design where there are gazebos, pergolas, iron gratings and other supports:

They are planted 2-3 near the support and the shoots are directed, fixing in the desired direction.

You can decorate withered trees and bare pillars with roses, and also create delightful pyramids using a metal or wooden frame.

Beautifully flowering and beautifully fruiting shrubs that are planted behind the roses and at a distance of at least 1-1.5 m from them look good with roses.

Among the deciduous shrubs, roses are combined with lilac, mackerel, yellow acacia, cotoneaster, euonymus, snowberry, oleaster, sea buckthorn, privet, tamarix, and mock orange.

The classic combination of roses with evergreen species, not only shrubs, but also trees - spruce, thuja, junipers. Species such as mahonia, pyrocanthus, and horizontal cotoneaster can also be used as evergreens.

The blue color, symbolizing the purity of the sky, enhances the beauty of the flower. lush rose, white - gives splendor to the rose garden.

As you can see in the photo, when decorating a garden plot, roses go well with lavender, periwinkles, speedwells, bluebells, delphiniums, columbine, asters with blue and white flower colors:

Roses in the garden go well with lavender (photo)

Roses in the garden go perfectly with bluebells (photo)

Roses can be combined with summer flowering annuals and perennials. The main condition is that they have blue, blue, lilac, silver shades of flowers and leaves.

The classic combination of roses and gypsophila not only in bouquets, but also in a flowerbed or mixborder.

Plant summer flowers, acroclinum, lobelia, and agerantum alongside the standard roses.

The successful combination of roses and vines is generally recognized. Roses against the background of blue clematis, honeysuckle, and actinidia acquire even greater expressiveness.

We should not forget about the successful combination of roses with ears of perennial and annual grasses. They add grace and airiness to rose plantings. Among the grasses are sheep's fescue, evergreen oats, and brome.

Roses can also be combined with bulbous ones, but not with all of them, and, perhaps, only with white lilies, but, again, not in a bouquet and not with fragrant lilies.

Everything that has been said about possible combinations of roses, their placement on the site is important not only from the point of view of harmony and visual perception. It has been established that successful combinations have a positive effect on the overall lifespan of the plant and the manifestation of its inherent advantages.

Only those plants that have similar requirements for growing conditions can be roses' companions. It is important to consider the time of flowering - it is better when the companions of the roses bloom before or after the queen of flowers. No less important is the combination of plants by aroma: you should not plant flowers next to a rose that exude strong smell, interrupting the subtle scent of rose.

The background on which roses grow is very important. Conifers, especially blue spruce, can also be used as a background.

Compositions of roses with other shrubs that have beautifully colored foliage are also successful: red, yellow, variegated - these include bladderworts, barberries, black elderberry, etc. Roses look wonderful against the background of the silvery foliage of poplar and suckers.

Look at the photo - roses in garden design look harmonious against the background flower plants with small flowers of white, blue and dark blue colors, among which gypsophila takes first place:

If we talk about lining rose bushes, then the first place comes out to ornamental grasses (miscanthus, falaris, molinia, ozhika and various fescues), which are the ideal companion for roses.

Cereal herbs will also be supported in the composition by irises with their linear leaves. Irises bloom earlier than many roses, so their flowers will not distract attention, and after flowering the leaves will decorate rose plantings.

These photos show what can be planted next to roses for beautiful design garden plot:

When placing roses in the garden, consider the following recommendations:

• White roses go harmoniously with all the colors of the rainbow. White roses look good next to other white flowers, especially if you add plants with bluish foliage. This combination can be complemented with pale blue, pink or lemon yellow flowers.
• Yellow roses are spectacular with green and yellow-green tones; with blue and blue; and in compositions of warm tones - with different shades orange.
• Bright orange and orange-red roses are so striking that they are hard to miss. They go very beautifully with different shades of blue and cyan, especially in the presence of yellow-green.
• Orange, apricot and peach roses in pale shades are completely lost in the colorful flower garden. It is better to surround such roses with other delicately colored plants. If there is pinkishness in the color of the rose, it will be combined with pink or crimson flowers.
• Red roses don't go well with other shades of red and pink, so it's best to surround them with yellow or blue flowers. Red roses come with orange or lilac shade, and these two tones are not at all in harmony with each other, so they are not planted next to each other.
• Soft pink roses look great against the background of plants with bluish-green foliage; they harmonize with pale blue flowers and deep pink roses.
• Lilac and violet roses go well with pink, blue and yellow-green tones.

By watching the video “Roses in Garden Design” you can learn a lot original ideas:

As you know, there are many types of roses that summer residents and gardeners should pay attention to. Despite the fact that owners often decide to plant lush rose bushes, it makes sense to pay attention to the so-called climbing roses, the appearance of which is simply unique. The thing is that it is climbing roses that resemble grapes, which wrap around any surface and seem to become part of this or that structure or other object. Climbing roses, among other things, have a unique appearance that attracts people with the bright color of their buds and the density of their leaves.

Many people call abundantly growing climbing roses a blooming carpet that can turn even a gray and unattractive area into a truly fabulous area.

Despite the fact that modern views roses are quite hardy to any conditions, it is still necessary to take care of climbing roses, since losing such a wonderful plant would be a terrible mistake. Practice shows that to maintain the excellent condition of a climbing rose, a minimum of effort is required, but these same efforts are needed with a certain regularity.

In this material we will look at the main details associated with climbing roses, and also analyze the conditions in which the plant will feel most comfortable. We will separately go through the main measures that allow you to preserve roses from severe cold and frosty winds.

Features of climbing roses

First of all, you need to understand that climbing roses are significantly different from other types of roses. However, these differences practically do not concern the appearance of this culture. The point is that climbing roses are often planted in regions where a warm and mild climate with moderate humidity prevails. If we are talking about areas where in winter the temperature can reach tens of degrees below zero, it is better to abandon the idea of ​​planting climbing roses. In extreme cases, you may want to consider a secure cover for your flowers to minimize exposure to cold temperatures. However, we will talk about this in more detail later in this material.

Again, the main feature of climbing roses is their appearance. The point is that every owner can create just such a flower arrangement whatever he wants. IN in this case it all depends on where the rose is planted and what is located next to this place. Often people who want to create an attractive composition of roses use special frames made of metal reinforcement. Ultimately, climbing roses are wrapped around units of reinforcement, and a kind of “living” composition is obtained. It is worth emphasizing that this is also not such a simple process, since evenly covering a frame or other base with a plant is quite difficult. It is also worth paying attention to the fact that the bush will not develop so quickly, so you will have to wait several seasons before a composition based on climbing roses becomes the center of attention of the site.

Varieties of climbing roses

Obviously, there are a huge number of varieties of roses, so every gardener or summer resident will choose exactly those roses that look attractive and also have other positive aspects. It is interesting that the appearance of roses may be practically the same, but the most important features will make themselves known. For example, we can talk about the plant’s resistance to low temperatures or the flowering period.

The main varieties that can now be found on sale are the following:

• Climbing rose Sympathy.
• Climbing rose Polka.
• Climbing rose Pierre de Ronsard.
• Rose climbing Flamentanz.
• Climbing rose Hendel.
• Rosa climbing Santana.
• Climbing rose Kordes.
• Rose climbing Lagoon.
• Climbing rose Rosarium Utersen.
• Climbing rose Golden perfume.

Groups of climbing roses

To begin with, you should keep in mind that there is an international classification of climbing roses, with the help of which even specialists are guided. There are 3 groups in total, and we will analyze each of them in detail.

• 1st group. This group includes true and climbing roses, which have sufficient flexibility, as well as an arched shape of the shoots. As for the length, the curly parts can often reach 5 meters. The shoots themselves have a green color, which is distinguished by its rich color and crooked thorns. Flowers can have different colors. By themselves they are terry or semi-double. Flowering is abundant, which lasts for a whole month (often the first half of summer). The leaves have a characteristic shine and high rigidity (most often the leaves are small). As for the winter period, roses belonging to this group can withstand the cold without any problems, but a little shelter should still be provided. We also must not forget about the cold wind, which can harm even the most frost-resistant plants.
• 2nd group. It is interesting that this group was created on the basis of tea, hybrid and remontant roses. As a result, the second group received unique features. We are talking about long shoots that can reach 4 m. In addition, the growth itself is very active. The flowers are collected in small inflorescences, and in appearance they all look very much like hybrid roses. The main difference of this group is its excellent resistance to the cool season, resistance to diseases that usually affect roses, as well as repeated flowering, which incredibly pleases many owners. Of course, we cannot exclude the fact that this group of climbing roses will still succumb to diseases, but such a probability is extremely low.
• 3rd group. Well, if we talk about the final group of climbing roses, then it was created on the basis of peculiar mutations of bush plants, which are distinguished by large flowering. The owners like this group because of its bright color and large flowers. Unlike previous groups, these flowers take quite a long time to bloom, and for many gardeners this can be of great importance.

The process of growing climbing roses

First of all, it is advisable to understand the place where the roses will be planted. Experts recommend choosing places for such tasks that have direct sunlight and excellent ventilation. In addition, it is best to plant at higher elevations, but we must not forget that the “hot sun” for roses is not the best environment, even if all other conditions for the plant are ideal. At the same time good lighting for climbing roses is a guarantee that in a year they will delight active flowering. Again, it is worth paying attention to the fact that the soil on which the planting takes place is moderately fertile. It is best to choose loamy soil that has low humidity. As you know, for most roses, increased moisture in the root system is a serious problem, so this should be taken into account not only when choosing best place for planting, but also when caring for the plant.

Planting climbing roses

• The area of ​​each hole for planting climbing roses should have a size of about 50x50 cm. The holes themselves must be prepared before the important process. We are talking about the idea that manure is introduced into the recess (which should be no deeper than 50 cm), as well as a certain volume of water.
• After planting has taken place, you need to trim off the above-ground part of the plant a little. It is best to ensure that the length of the vegetation does not exceed 20 cm. If everything is done correctly, then in the near future the climbing roses will show tremendous growth.
• The distance between any objects from the planting site should be at least 0.5 m. If this value is less, then it cannot be ruled out that the growth of climbing roses will not be slowed down.

Separately, it is worth mentioning the process of transplanting climbing roses. This is an extremely responsible process, which can be accompanied by many difficulties, so in most cases, in order not to lose this amazing plant, it makes sense to turn to knowledgeable people.

Specifics of caring for climbing roses

• Unlike some other flowers, climbing roses require a lot of time for regular care. Of course, this is not a problem for those people who like to spend a lot of time in their summer cottage or garden. First of all, we are talking about the time spent on watering, pruning bushes, as well as regular fertilizing.
• Pruning the bushes should be done at least a couple of times a season, as climbing roses will gradually lose their shape. If you do not trim the branches on time, the situation may turn out to be too neglected. In addition, as we have already said, the growth activity of a climbing rose may also depend on pruning.
• As for feeding, we are talking about fertilizers that have a positive effect on the overall growth of climbing roses. It must be borne in mind that manure, which is used when planting a plant, has an effect for a couple of years, after which it is necessary to resort to fertilizing again. Experts advise choosing mineral fertilizers that have a positive effect on growth and flowering. It is interesting that during the growing season these roses need about 5 feedings.

Pruning climbing roses

Returning to pruning climbing roses, attention should be paid to the fact that timely actions can ensure the growth of new shoots up to 3.5 m within one season. Of course, this cannot but attract attention, since in a short period of time the plant becomes truly amazing in appearance. It is also worth paying attention to the fact that without reliable protection from severe frosts, pruning may not have any effect.

In addition, do not forget that we are talking about different groups of climbing roses, so pruning will occur slightly differently.

The main shoots of climbing roses need to be removed only after 3-4 years of flowering. It is also worth keeping in mind that many roses for the next season acquire several new shoots based on one old one. Thus, it is advisable to leave up to 5 shoots on one bush. There are also roses that bloom a couple of times a year; in this case, the shoots need to be trimmed after 5 years, since before this period, weakening of the shoots should not be observed.

You should not be afraid to remove young shoots if they interfere with the formation of attractive vegetation.

The good news is that rose bushes that have been planted for at least a couple of years are considered “mature” and are the easiest to prune. In such situations, you can immediately see what needs to be deleted and what is better left. It is necessary to observe the proportions of the bush, as otherwise it may be disrupted general position plants, and problems can no longer be avoided.

If conventional pruning does not help to form shrubs (or other forms), you need to use more sophisticated tools. We are talking about a garter, as well as supports with which you can fix almost any plant. After a certain period, you can safely remove the auxiliary elements, and the shrub itself will have the necessary proportions.

Winter and climbing roses

It's no secret that for many plants, including roses, winter is not best time for active development. However, the biggest problem is low temperatures, which can easily negatively affect the overall health of the shrub. Attention should be paid to the fact that in the case of climbing roses it is extremely important to ensure reliable protection from low temperatures and cold winds.

As we have already said, most climbing roses are plants that are resistant to frost. However, this does not negate the fact that it is still necessary to prepare flowers for the winter period.

• In winter, you need to stop any activities related to loosening the soil, fertilizing and the like. Thus, it is worth paying attention to the fact that you should start creating shelter for climbing roses only when frosts have already begun (we are talking about temperatures from -5 Celsius). If you do this ahead of schedule, then under the cover the roses may simply dry out. Not very low temperatures have a positive effect on the condition of the plant, since it is gradually preparing for really severe frosts, and if such a situation does occur, no special problems should occur.
• Most often, the covering for climbing roses is prepared in August. It is worth paying attention to the fact that you need to do everything gradually, since too sudden steps in this situation can only do harm. As we already said in the previous paragraph, minimal frosts make it possible to strengthen the bush and in some way prepare it for too low temperatures.
• Preparing roses for winter occurs exclusively in dry weather conditions. In this case, the supports are removed and the shoots are also cleaned. Damaged leaves of climbing roses must be removed. Accordingly, all those measures are being taken that will improve the condition of the plant at the beginning of the next season (active growth will occur).
• The whips need to be tied with a rope and then pressed to the ground (at the highest possible level). Ideally, climbing roses should be at ground level so that frosty winds cannot affect the plant in any way. It is advisable to place a plastic film on top. In addition, you can cover the plant with dry leaves. Both options are good, but you need to make sure that the roses do not mate if the temperature outside suddenly rises.

Specifics of propagation of climbing roses

First of all, it must be said that climbing roses are best propagated by green cuttings. There is information that in this situation, rooting is almost guaranteed. It is advisable to carry out cuttings starting from the second half of June.

The cuttings themselves are taken directly from healthy shoots. It is important to note that the leaves from the bottom of the plant must be removed, and the cutting itself is placed in sand with soil to a shallow depth (about 1 cm). For growing climbing roses this way, it is advisable to use a small box or pot. It is also necessary to ensure that the cutting is in moderate shade, since the bright sun may not have the best effect on its condition.

As for watering, it is necessary to do this regularly, but in moderation, since any excess can significantly damage the cuttings.

Options for placing climbing roses on the site

If we are talking about planting climbing roses in a summer cottage or garden plot, we should pay attention directly to the place where the plant will be located.

Growing specialists various types roses, they note that the climbing plant can be planted in almost any place, but the most important thing is the location, on which the condition of the roses, as well as the general appearance of the territory, can depend. Thus, you should pay attention to recommendations for planting near trees or near previously planted bushes. It must be borne in mind that planting climbing roses near other plants is a responsible step, since when pruning branches and other elements, special care will be required so as not to touch the neighboring crop.

In addition, people with experience recommend not using other plants as a support for climbing roses, since at one moment something can go wrong and the plant will find itself in an extremely dangerous situation. Thus, it makes sense to pay attention to the standard supports that we talked about earlier. With their help you can be sure of correct growth shrub, and also, if necessary, without any problems subjecting the plant to any changes in terms of position. Again, when the climbing roses reach large sizes, a lot of effort and care will be required to maintain an acceptable condition, since the miniature supports may not be able to withstand the large weight of the plant.

• Type: Rosaceae
• Flowering period: June, July
• Height: 5-15m
• Color: white, cream, yellow, pink, orange, red, burgundy
• perennial
• Winters
• Sun-loving
• Moisture-loving

Summer residents adore rose bushes for their lush color and delicate aroma. Small bushes on the porch, flower beds along the path, an area near the gazebo or pool - delicate rose buds can decorate any part of the land. But nothing compares to climbing roses - luxurious perennials that can turn even an abandoned shack into a romantic corner. A magical carpet of fragrant flowers is ideal for vertical gardening, but it will be truly beautiful under one condition: if proper planting and care are provided climbing rose. It is these procedures that we will talk about today.

Lush flowering plants require special attention, and long lashes with large velvet flowers are no exception. Only technically verified planting, careful feeding, timely pruning, protection of bushes from pests and winter insulation guarantee a full result - abundant flowering throughout the warm season.

Choosing a growing location

Roses love the sun very much and cannot stand wetlands, so the place where they are planted should be well ventilated and illuminated by sunlight. Also, plants develop worse if roses have already been planted in the planned location. It’s not bad if there is a room nearby that is suitable for winter storage bushes.

Lush shrubs are perfect for decorating old buildings, cabins, utility rooms: flowering shoots successfully cover parts of the roof and walls

To prevent water from stagnating in the ground, the selected location must have at least a minimal slope. Waterlogging can occur due to close-lying groundwater. It should be taken into account that the roots often reach two meters in length, and if there is a risk of high humidity, it is necessary to plant flowers at higher elevations.

Sometimes rose bushes are planted near the walls of a building for the purpose of decorating them, which threatens to deplete the roots. To prevent this trouble, maintain a distance of 55-60 cm from the wall, as well as at least 50 cm from other plants. The peculiarity of climbing varieties is the presence of support, the role of which is usually played by walls, arches, pergolas, nets, fences, specially created cones or pillars.

You can build a reliable support for a climbing rose with your own hands from several bars or boards, which are connected in the form of a lattice or cone

You can make a garden arch for roses with your own hands:

Optimal landing time

IN middle lane With temperate climate The best planting period is from the last ten days of September to the beginning of October. After one or two weeks, the plants produce the first roots, which have time to adapt before the onset of serious frosts. With the onset of spring, both the above-ground and root parts begin to actively develop, and by the time of flowering the bush gains full strength, not inferior in splendor to old plants.

When setting the time for planting climbing roses, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the variety: for example, “Super Dorothy” blooms quite late, despite the early planting date

If planting is done in the spring, the development of flowers will be delayed by about 15 days, and such a climbing rose will require more careful care. Before planting in the ground, the seedling must be shortened by 2-3 buds. Beginner gardeners do it simpler: they buy their own rooted plants in containers at the nursery, and place them in the ground in late spring.

Initial processing of seedlings

You should seriously treat the seedlings before planting, otherwise their development will be defective. Preparation includes several manipulations:

• soaking seedlings in water for 1 day (only roots or the whole plant);
• pruning shoots and roots;
• dusting the cut areas with previously crushed charcoal;
• treating the roots with a useful mixture.

Pruning climbing roses should be understood as shortening several (3-5) strong shoots to a height of 15 cm; weaker shoots should be removed completely. The same is done with the root system: fragmented or long shoots are removed, leaving a small bunch. Thanks to this, the development of the plant will occur more actively, and during the flowering period the rose will produce numerous lush buds.

Proper preparation of seedlings is a sure guarantee that the plant will gain maximum strength and at the right time will be covered with lush color

Pruned and impregnated with fertilizers, seedlings receive a kind of immunity, thanks to which they quickly develop and bloom in lush colors.

One of the options for a mineral mixture for processing: a little clay, 1/10 part of mullein, phosphorobacterin (2-3 tablets per 10 liters of solution). You can use heteroauxin - just 1 tablet is enough.

Features of soil preparation

The ideal soil for rose bushes is loose loamy, permeable soil containing a fertile layer. Sand and heavy clay are completely unsuitable for growing flowers, so each of these types of soil must be diluted with the opposite. A little lime will make the soil crumbly and more suitable in chemical composition.

If the soil on the site is too acidic, liming is performed:

Heavy, fragrant, brightly colored buds are the first sign that the soil for the plant has been chosen correctly: it allows water and air to pass through well

To increase fertility, humus, humus, phosphate fertilizers, special soil bacteria (phosphorobacterin). At the end of summer, everything is dug up several times, and in the spring they do another shoveling.

Pit design: more freedom

The volume of the planting pit should be sufficient so that the young roots of the plant do not experience a shortage of free space. The optimal depth is 60-65 cm. The holes must be located at a distance of at least 1 m from one another, only in this case the root system will be able to develop freely. When planting a rose, the root collar is immersed in the soil by about 10-12 cm - thus, it is protected from frost in winter (with additional insulation).

Arranging landing hole, it is necessary to take into account not only its size, but also its location relative to the support: nothing should interfere with the development of the roots of the plant

The roots are placed freely, carefully filling the voids between them. About 5 kg of peat compost or a similar nutrient mixture must be added to each hole. Fill the hole with soil to the level of the ground surface, and then trample it down a little. Further care for climbing roses implies timely feeding of fertilizer. The first is carried out immediately after landing. A mixture of phosphobacterin and heteroauxin is excellent for irrigation, or humates are an option.

To saturate the soil with microelements useful for the plant, it is mulched with humus, compost or humus, which can be easily prepared at the dacha with your own hands

If you want to create a rose garden on your site, then use not only climbing species roses:

Garter and bush formation

By directing the young shoots, you can give the rose bush exactly the shape that was originally planned. To form a larger number of buds and abundant flowering, gartering of individual lashes is necessary. Typically, climbing species are used for vertical decoration, but this does not mean that all branches should be directed upward: with this arrangement, the bush will become poorer, and buds will appear only at the very top.

The solution is simple: several main branches need to be positioned horizontally, and to do this they need to be tied up. Each main lash will produce several side shoots growing upward, and most importantly - a whole cloud of lush flowers. This principle is good for decorating walls, high mesh fences, and pergolas.

Proper gartering of roses ensures the development of shoots in the desired direction: along a fence or arch, on top of a plane, around supports of various configurations

An excellent solution for a walking path is a suite of arches designed to be decorated with climbing roses and clematis, which have already been planted and will soon begin to grow.

Another popular way of arranging shoots is “fan”, when the side shoots freely extend upward and to the sides without interfering with each other. For braiding a pillar or arch, a “spiral” is more suitable, when the lashes twist around the support. Regardless of the location of the shoots, there is no need to neglect caring for them. climbing roses, and this applies not only to regular pruning, watering and fertilizing, but also to preparation for frost.

Weak shoots and old lashes are cut off, leaving only 11-12 strong shoots. They are carefully collected into a large bundle, tied, tilted towards the ground and secured in this position with pegs. Finally, cover with spruce paws. The base of the bush should be sprinkled with a mixture of soil and peat, and covered with agrofibre or dense film on top.

Single rose bushes are covered separately, and those growing nearby can be insulated using a large piece of agrofibre, covering several bushes at once

The second method resembles the first, but the lashes remain tied to the support. It is used in regions with milder climates. The shoots are covered with the same spruce branches, and the top is hermetically wrapped with film. High-quality covering material and properly performed insulation guarantee the safety of the rose bush until the spring thaw.

In addition to pruning and covering, roses also need other procedures before wintering:

Only by fulfilling these requirements can you hope for good flowering.