DIY rectangular gazebo. DIY wooden gazebo - construction instructions

A rectangular gazebo for a site is best option execution of this building. It can be completed in the shortest possible time if the technology is followed and with competent drawings, and such a rectangular gazebo will serve its owners for many years.

Not required for installation rectangular gazebo To use the services of professionals, it is enough to have a little experience working with the tool and an idea of what should happen in the end.

Questions before construction

In order to understand exactly what rectangular gazebo will be needed for your dacha and what its dimensions will be, before installation, you need to clearly think through the following nuances:

Location of the building.
Type of territory for the future gazebo and its topography for the right choice grounds.
Possibility to arrange a summer kitchen inside.
The number of people planned to be accommodated in a rectangular gazebo.
Type of seats and table that will be placed inside the gazebo.
Possibility of connecting the structure to the house using a canopy.
The need for communications.

If there are no frequent meetings with a large company in a rectangular gazebo, then you don’t have to make it too big, since you will need to spend additional money on materials and further maintenance of the structure. Be sure to immediately decide whether the gazebo will be open or closed, or perhaps some part of it will be fenced with a lattice.

Drafting

After the main questions have been answered and you already have a little idea of what kind of rectangular gazebo to build and what it will be needed for, you can begin to develop design documentation.

Among all the projects, we can highlight several that, despite their modest size, will help place everything you need inside, and also will not take up too much space on the site:

The list of sizes provided only indicates possible dimensions and solutions. In each specific case, the size and internal as well as external design are selected individually depending on the needs and capabilities of the owner.

The plan clearly shows all the dimensions of the gazebo and its appearance. It also reflects the type of foundation that is selected for the building. Typically, gazebos are installed on a strip, pile or columnar type of foundation, made in a rectangular shape. The detailed manufacture of each of these types will be discussed later. The plan takes into account the material from which the decision was made to build a rectangular gazebo with your own hands.

It can be wooden, brick or metal. The first option is more preferable for self-construction, as it is easy to process. A metal rectangular frame of a gazebo will require the skills of a welder, and a brick frame will be quite expensive, but the appearance of the structure will not leave anyone indifferent. The fact of the presence of windows and their types and design features are also taken into account.

Material for making a gazebo

Since in this article we are talking about self-construction gazebos, then the most suitable material for this will be timber. It is made from different breeds trees, which differ in some features:

Do-it-yourself flooring for a gazebo is made with edged or tongue-and-groove boards, which have a thickness of at least 32 mm.

Choosing a foundation

In order to choose the right type of rectangular base for the gazebo, you need to determine the load-bearing capacity of the base and the weight of the gazebo.

Tape base

Typically, this type of foundation is used for heavy buildings, which include brick gazebos. But you can often find such a base on a wooden gazebo. This is due to the reliability of the foundation. A strip foundation helps distribute the load from the building evenly over the soil area, which will prevent partial subsidence of the structure.

The algorithm for making a foundation strip for a rectangular gazebo is as follows:

In accordance with the project, a pit is dug in the marked area along the entire perimeter of the future rectangular structure. Its width, as a rule, is from 30 to 40 cm, and its depth can reach 50. Its minimum is 20 cm.
Important! For heaving soil, shallow strip foundation will not work, since heaving forces will push it out.
The bottom of the pit for the future foundation is covered with a fifteen-centimeter layer of sand and spilled with water for greater density.
Formwork is constructed above the ground from metal sheets or boards nailed together.
Laying on the bottom and walls of the trench waterproofing material, which is usually used as roofing material.
Installation inside the reinforcement grid.
Pouring the concrete mass and processing it with an in-depth vibrator.

The base strip can also be made from bricks or ready-made rectangular blocks. If one of these types of foundation is chosen, the bottom of the trench is covered with a thin concrete screed. The structure of such a base is shown in the photo.

Columnar base

A columnar foundation is ideal for wooden and metal gazebos. This type of foundation is performed only on soil with sufficient bearing capacity. Important! This foundation option is much less expensive than the previous one.

The columnar base is made using the following technology:

On finished site pits are dug for the pillars in accordance with the design, where their locations are marked.
The bottom of each is filled with sand or gravel. The finished pillow is poured with water and compacted.
A concrete screed is made on top, on which bricks are laid or ready-made blocks are placed.

Important! For such a base, waterproofing with roofing felt is also arranged.

Pile foundation

If the site has significant relief or soil with low bearing capacity, then the rectangular gazebo is then installed on a pile foundation. They can be:

When using piles of the second type for the foundation, you must take into account several nuances:

Corrosion protection, which is carried out using bitumen mastic.
When used on rocky soils, it is better to use cast type pile caps.
It is better to fill the piles with concrete during installation, since even if the pipe is damaged by corrosion, it will be able to withstand the weight of the gazebo.

Technology for constructing a rectangular gazebo

A wooden rectangular gazebo is made in this way:

Important! The wooden structure of a rectangular gazebo must be properly maintained. This means that every 3 years you need to change paintwork to prevent rotting and drying out.

Particular attention is paid fire safety in case of building a rectangular or barbecue inside. The material for such a structure must be impregnated with a fire retardant to resist fire.

The installation of such a rectangular gazebo should be carried out at a distance of more than 5 meters from the house and other buildings.

Conclusion

A rectangular gazebo will decorate any site and fit into absolutely any landscape. For large areas, you can choose a large gazebo with a barbecue and dining area, and for small areas, a small cozy structure for two or four. Regardless of the size, building a gazebo requires certain knowledge and skills, as well as strict adherence to technology. Only with a competent approach to construction can you create a truly high-quality gazebo, in which it will be convenient to receive guests at any time of the year.

Many owners of dachas and private houses strive to create at least some kind of recreation area on their site and spend more time in the fresh air. First of all, attention is paid to the construction of the gazebo. Those who once abandoned this idea in favor of installing it on summer season a collapsible tent and had already become convinced of the unreliability of its design. And rightly so. A well-built permanent gazebo is not afraid of hurricane winds or torrential rain.

Gazebo foundation

The construction of any wooden gazebo begins with the foundation. Given the relative lightness of the structure, it is enough to make columns from brick or concrete.

Pre-mark the area, stretch the cords around the perimeter of the future gazebo. In case of square gazebo measure the diagonals, thereby checking the perpendicularity of the cords to each other. By pulling two more cords diagonally, we mark the intersection - this is where the central base will be located.

The required depth of the foundation pits is determined by the type of soil. So, if we are dealing with non-heaving soil, then there is no need to drill holes for pouring concrete pillars below the freezing depth. It will be enough to dig holes about 200-300 mm deep, then fill them with sand and gravel mixture to about half the depth, carefully compacting and leveling the backfill horizontally.

Coarse sand, crushed stone or gravel should be filled to approximately half the depth of the dug holes.

At the base of each pillar we lay concrete paving slabs.

The next step is to lay out the brick pillars. Here you need to approach the issue of choosing a suitable brick with all responsibility, because not every type is suitable for the foundation. It is better to use either white silicate or burnt red brick for these purposes. It is worth noting that clay red brick is still preferable in terms of moisture and frost resistance, and in terms of its strength characteristics, the fired type of red brick is no worse than silicate, pressed from sand.

Make sure that the masonry is strictly vertical. All columns should be placed in one horizontal plane. For these purposes, you can use a hydraulic level (a transparent tube filled with water).

We lay brick columns on the leveled areas

If you plan to secure the beam of the bottom trim and the rack to concrete base(brick columns), then this can be done without the use of special fasteners, L-shaped bolts and other things, but with the help of ordinary reinforcement bars cemented into the brick by about 20 - 30 cm. The bar should protrude approximately the same amount from above, as can be seen in the photo below.

We will attach the posts and the lower frame of the gazebo to the reinforcement

In general, the gazebo’s own weight is unlikely to allow it to tip over or slide off the poles even in a strong wind, but just in case, at least some kind of fastening would not hurt. Of course, unless you live in a seismically active area, where you simply cannot do without reliable fastening.

Bottom harness

The next stage is the arrangement of the lower trim. As a rule, timber with a cross section of 100x100 mm is used for it. We connect the beams together “half-tree”. All the grooves, of which a lot have to be made when building a gazebo, can be easily cut using a jigsaw with a long file or a reciprocating saw. Before laying the trim, waterproofing should be placed on the brick columns - ordinary roofing material. When attaching to the above-mentioned reinforcing bars, in the places where future racks will be installed, we drill holes in the beam and thread them through them, as shown in the previous photo.

We first assemble the lower trim, placing it on the base posts

Rafter system

It is better to pre-assemble a roof rafter system with an upper frame, especially when working alone, below, right on the floor frame of the future gazebo - this will make it much more convenient to adjust the rafters and locks, and you will still have time to “jump” up the stairs to your heart’s content at the final stage of assembling the entire structure .

We make the top frame itself from a 50x100 mm board, connecting the half-tree beam at the corners. To connect it with the pillars using a tongue-and-groove connection (as shown in the figure below), we hollow out the corresponding grooves with a chisel.

Tongue and groove connection

Painted bars for the top trim. The square grooves for attaching the racks to the tenons are clearly visible

To prevent the roof from sliding down in the rafters, it is necessary to make ordinary triangular cuts or cut out a kind of tenon that fits into the grooves of the top trim beam selected with a chisel.

Ready-made gazebo rafters with a cut-out “tenon”

Armed with a screwdriver and long screws, we assemble the elements of the future roof.

Gazebo rafter system assembled

The finished roof frame can now be disassembled and each element painted with an antiseptic (for example, Pinotex wood impregnation or similar), which is resistant to precipitation, sunlight and temperature changes.

The final stage of construction of the gazebo

Now that all the design elements rafter system The gazebo is completely ready, you can disassemble it, put the parts aside and start installing the stands.

Installation of vertical racks

For them we use the same timber as for the lower trim - 100x100 mm.

For ease of installation, we saw off the ends of the timber strictly at right angles. On one side of the beam we make a tenon for installing the top trim on it. For this purpose, it is better to use an electric jigsaw, which is simply irreplaceable when making all the numerous cuts. On the other side of the beam, if the installation of gazebo posts is planned specifically on reinforcement bars, we drill a hole to the required depth with a diameter equal to or slightly less than the diameter of the bar. For reliable fastening, it is better to use reinforcement with notches.

We level the pillars strictly vertically and fix them with temporary jibs for reliability. We attach each rack to the bottom trim with self-tapping screws using metal corners, as seen in the photo.

How to install gazebo posts alone

After installing all the pillars of the gazebo, we lift and attach the top frame to them...

The gazebo frame is ready

...and then the rafters.

Installing rafters

The structure will immediately become rigid and stable and you can confidently begin to roof the roof. We make continuous plank flooring from the bottom up, screwing the boards to the joists using self-tapping screws. To mark the boards, it is convenient to use a template cut out of cardboard.

Gazebo roof decking

OSB-3 boards are also often used for roof decking - it all depends on preferences and the type of roof chosen.

For painting the floor and wooden furniture inside the gazebo you can use special terrace oil “Pinotex”, which prevents the appearance of fungus and gives the wood a water-repellent property.

Shinglas soft bitumen tiles will serve as an excellent roof for a gazebo. Don't forget about the ridge and cornice strips!

Installing the cornice strip

Covering the roof of the gazebo with tiles

Installing ridge strips

Flooring, installation of stairs and rungs

We begin installation of the floor by installing joists. We attach the logs to the bottom frame using U-shaped brackets.

Then we proceed to laying the pre-planed and painted floorboards.

We begin laying the boards from one of the walls of the gazebo

Before painting, the floorboards are carefully processed with an electric planer and sanded with an electric sander.

Pre-sized, planed with an electric planer, painted and dried railing elements are attached between the supports.

It's hard to imagine that such beauty can be accomplished alone. But the eyes, as they say, are afraid, and the hands...

The railings of the gazebo, carefully planed with a plane, sanded and painted, even look very aesthetically pleasing

We install the stairs.

We attach the porch of the gazebo from the outside to the beam of the lower frame

Here she is, our beauty!

Building a gazebo with your own hands at the dacha is not such a difficult task as it might seem at first!

The 3x3 gazebo only looks small from the outside, but 6 people can easily fit at this table. But you can make the table bigger if you want! But there will be almost no free space left - there will be no place for guests to dance.

All that remains is to cover the outside of the gazebo with a darkening mesh like Tenax Jamaica...

In the sun, a gazebo covered with mesh looks quite good

The mesh not only protects against mosquitoes in summer, but also protects the gazebo well from rain and snow in winter.

... thereby protecting yourself from mosquitoes and envious neighbors!

There is one element for a summer residence that cannot be replaced by anything else. A rectangular gazebo is a structure that is erected in a short period of time, but will serve for quite a long time. Food eaten in the fresh air is digested better and brings more benefits, and spending time with your loved ones is priceless. In today's world filled with electronics, many people forget about face-to-face communication. But this is precisely the key to strong relationships. Next we will look at how a rectangular gazebo can be built with your own hands.

What size

In order to fully give a thoughtful answer, it is necessary to analyze a few simple points:

Where will the building be located?
What territory can be allocated for it?
Will the gazebo serve as a kitchen?
How many people will be in the building at the same time?
What kind of seats will be installed inside?
Will the structure be adjacent to the house in the form of a canopy?
Will the water rise high during heavy rainfalls?
Will communications be necessary?

There is no need to make a building that is too large, since it will not be fully used so often. Moreover, this will be additional expenses during maintenance. At this stage, you need to think about whether all the walls of the gazebo will be open or whether several of them will need to be closed. The easiest way is to imagine a table in the middle, surrounded by chairs. You can make a solution that is distinctive for some cultures - sun loungers.

Making a drawing

After thinking about the above questions, it's time to transfer the plan onto a piece of paper so that it becomes a little more real than our imagination. Here are some projects that will take up little space but will allow you to fit all the necessary elements.

2.5x3.5 m. This solution is enough to place inside dinner table and chairs. Four people will feel quite comfortable.
3x4 m. You can invite guests to such a gazebo or gather a large family around a good table.
4x4 m. This option has a barbecue. A small platform with dimensions of 1x1 m is made without a cover so that the smoke can rise freely and does not linger under the roof.
5x5 m. In such a gazebo it will be possible to build sun loungers on which mattresses and pillows are placed. She will really good place rest and pastime.

Dimensions are given as examples. They can be varied and adjusted to suit specific needs and land plots. Knowing the specific parameters, you can choose the type of foundation that will be used. There are several options that do not take much time to construct, but will be a good support for the entire structure:

columnar brick;
columnar monolithic;
pile;
solid slab.

We will look at how each of them is made a little below. The material planned for use is also applied to the plan. The gazebo can be closed on all sides using double-glazed windows. In this case, you can do a large number of casement or sliding windows. This building will be comfortable in any weather. The most common material used is wood. It is accessible, easy to process, and no special tools are required to handle it. Profile metal can easily be used for the frame, but to work with it you need to have the skills of a welder. One wall or several can be made of facing brick, which looks quite attractive and makes it possible to combine the design with the main building.

Foundation

It was stated above what types of foundations can be used for buildings of this type. The easiest to build will be columnar brick. To implement it you will need:

Dig holes to a depth of 30 cm. This is done every meter along the length of all walls. A 20 cm layer of sand is added. It is compacted well, then moistened with water so that the material shrinks.
For each element you will need 4 blocks. Their size should be 20x20x40 cm. These are standard dimensions for cinder block or other similar building material.
The first two are placed on the prepared pillow. They are set according to level. It is most convenient to use a laser level, with which a line is projected. It will be a guide for all elements. A solution is applied between the stones to hold them together. They are equal in level.
Thus, two elements are placed in all corners.
A fishing line is stretched between them, which will help position the intermediate supports.
Two more bricks are laid perpendicularly on top of the mortar.

The foundation can be considered ready. But it is important to remember that this option is suitable for those areas where the soil has sufficient density and does not become excessively wet when it rains. Otherwise, the gazebo may lose support and collapse.

The columnar monolithic foundation resembles the previous version, but has its own characteristics:

The optimal support spacing for a particular structure is selected. It can be within 1–1.5 meters.
First, holes are dug in the corners. Their depth should be below soil freezing, and their dimensions, for example, 40x40 cm.
Next, with the selected step, holes are dug along the future wall. If the width of the building is large, then in the middle you also need to provide several supports for the central beam. If this is not done, then the floor will not be strong enough.
Sand is placed at the bottom of each recess in the same layer as in the previous version.
Formwork is made from edged boards, OSB sheets or plywood. It should be of such a height that the head is 20 cm above the surface. This will protect the main construction material from getting wet during rains or other precipitation.
The form is mounted and secured.
The internal walls are covered with roofing felt.
Reinforcement rods are inserted into the middle. It will be more efficient to make a lathing: 4 main vertical elements should be 12 mm in diameter, the rest can be 8 mm. They are connected to each other with knitting wire in such a way as to form a parallelogram. Transverse sections are located in increments of 30–40 cm.
The prepared concrete solution is poured. It must be well compacted. It is better to do this with an electric vibrator. If this is not possible, then as a last resort you can use a piece of reinforcement.
The upper ends of all elements are aligned in one plane to facilitate further construction.
At this stage there is an advantage to make a blank for the grillage. To do this you will need a metal bar (a strip of sheet metal). Its width should be at least 5 cm. 2 pieces of 15–20 cm each are made. They are vertically immersed in fresh solution at the distance of the timber, which will then be used.

You can also do permanent formwork for such a foundation. For this you will need asbestos pipe with a diameter of 250 mm. In the same way, holes are dug, bedding is made, but fine crushed stone is also laid on top of the sand in a layer of 15 cm and compacted well. Pipes are inserted inside and leveled. Crushed stone is filled halfway along the sides and compacted. Several reinforcement rods are inserted inside and the solution is poured. In the same way, you can make blanks from metal plates for timber.

Like the previous option, a pile foundation will allow you to support a large structure. It will be possible to build brick walls. The easiest way to work will be with screw elements.

In order for the supports to last as long as possible, they must be treated with an anti-corrosion agent and coated with paint. You can prevent the growth of weeds under the floor of the gazebo in the following way: lay sheets of roofing felt over the entire area. The overlap is 10 cm. A 5 cm layer of sand is placed on top and compacted well.

Base in the form monolithic slab will allow you to achieve two goals in one pass - make a foundation and prepare the floor.

The territory is marked.
A pit is dug to a depth of 30–40 cm.
The bottom is covered with a 15 cm layer of sand. It compacts well.
The next step is to lay a metal sheathing, which will add strength. Instead, you can use construction rubble - broken bricks, leftovers concrete slabs or natural stone. It is laid in an even layer over the entire excavated area.
From metal pipes or wooden pegs, beacons are made. They are set according to level. In this case, you can make a slight slope in one direction by 1–2 cm. This will allow spilled liquid or rainwater to flow quietly into the ground.
The solution is poured and tightened using a rule or a flat metal strip, for example, a piece of profile for drywall.
If you do not plan to lay tiles, then you can make iron on top. To do this, dry cement is applied to the still damp floor and rubbed down. Subsequently, a smooth surface with a slight gloss is obtained.
The structure will reach full strength no earlier than after 27 days.

If you don’t want to tinker with the concrete and foundation at all, you can simply dig the posts 50–70 cm into the ground, make a backfill of crushed stone and sand, and compact everything well.

Basic design

The principle of constructing a wooden and metal frame is in many ways similar. For the first option, you will need a 10×10 cm beam and a 10×5 cm edged board. In the second case, you will need an I-beam channel for the base, and a square profile pipe measuring 6×6 cm or 8×4 cm for the racks. In this case, all work is carried out using welding machine.

If the first three foundation options were chosen, then it is necessary to make the lower trim. To do this, the timber is cut to the length of each side, and another element is made in the same way, which will be laid in the middle.
They communicate with each other. To do this, a cutout is made in the corners with a depth of 5 cm and a width of 10 cm. The grooves are joined together and secured with self-tapping screws.
The next step is to install the corner posts. The same material is used for them as for the grillage. They are attached to the base using metal corner plates. To make the joint more reliable, it is necessary to cut out the tenon and recess it into the corresponding groove.
If the walls are more than 3 meters, then it is necessary to make additional vertical supports from edged boards. They can be installed every 1 m.
From above, all elements are connected using two boards, which are nailed along the inner and outside. The corners are reinforced with metal strips.
The next step is laying the floor. It can be made from a sanded board that is nailed end to end. At finishing it can be coated with varnish and stain.
If planned pitched roof, then the racks on one side need to be made 20 higher – 30 cm. For gable or four-slope they must be same size. For the first option, it will be enough to simply install boards after 40 cm from one wall to another and fix them. For a gable roof you will need to assemble several trusses; they can be arranged in increments of 60 – 100 cm. They represent an isosceles triangle. First of all, the two outermost ones are mounted. They are leveled in the horizontal and vertical planes. 3 fishing lines are stretched between them, which will serve as a guide for the remaining components. They can be connected to each other using a ridge beam or oblique lintels. Lathing is made for a specific flooring, and the area is covered.

For monolithic foundation corner posts must be sunk into the ground. This can be done at the pouring stage or after. Holes are dug at 4 corners to a depth of 50 cm. Columns are made according to the foundation principle, which was described above. They will be the support for the racks. Further assembly is the same as in the previous versions, but it is no longer necessary to perform the lower trim. In this case, you can go another way. The main racks may not be wooden, but brick. To do this, columns are laid out in the corners, which must be reinforced inside. Placed on top of them wooden beam 10x10 cm. The elements are tied together, as described for the grillage. This will be the Mauerlat, which will become the basis for the roof.

Some elements that can be located inside have already been discussed throughout the article. The space between the posts can be open. Several sides can be covered with transparent polycarbonate. In another option, masonry is made up to the middle facing bricks. The remaining opening is left as is, or a wooden grille is mounted into it. The area around can be planted wild grapes or ivy. Over time, it will envelop the entire gazebo and create a green island.

If desired, the structure can be made with elements borrowed from the kolyba. To do this, a hole is left in the middle of the roof, which will be used for smoke exit. In this case, you can make a fireplace right in the middle, which will allow you to enjoy the fire in any weather, sitting around it on comfortable chairs or loungers.

It must be remembered that wooden structures need constant maintenance. At least every 3 years, it is necessary to remove the old coating and reapply varnish or paint that is intended for outdoor use. In this case, it will be possible to avoid drying out and rotting.

Video

An example of building a rectangular gazebo:

Photo

Any construction work must begin with planning, and the construction of a garden gazebo or gazebo is by no means an exception. Of course, the easiest way is to order a rectangular gazebo project from professional engineers, but if you have certain skills construction work You can cope with the task on your own. Moreover, there is nothing particularly complicated in the design, which means that we will only have to accurately maintain the dimensions.

Gazebo design

Sizing

Before we start building a drawing of a rectangular gazebo, we need to determine its dimensions:

Firstly, the building must fit on our site and not interfere with movement. Ideally, the gazebo should be located at a distance from residential and outbuildings - this approach will ensure optimal conditions for a comfortable stay.

Secondly, the inside should be quite spacious. If we are talking about rectangular models, then they are initially planned as canopies for a fairly large number of people. At a minimum, your entire family should be accommodated there comfortably.
Ideally width similar structure should be from 2.5 to 3.5 m, and the length - from 4.5 to 6 m. If we make it smaller, it will be cramped, and a structure with large dimensions will look cumbersome.

Note! If you plan to install a fireplace or barbecue, then in this case it is necessary to lay a platform of approximately 2x3 m at one of the ends. This reserve is necessary so that the smoke and heat from the coals do not interfere with rest.

The selected dimensions can be adjusted during the construction process detailed plan. Naturally, this must be done in such a way that the overall dimensions do not “go beyond” the area allocated for the construction on the site.

When you have decided on the dimensions, you can take up a ruler or a special computer program. In any case, the principles by which we will build remain unchanged.

Construction of a foundation drawing

You need to start designing by building a foundation diagram.

As an example, we will take a columnar foundation made of concrete blocks 250x250 mm:

On a sheet of paper (it is advisable to use graph paper - this will make it much easier for a beginner to avoid mistakes) we draw the outline of the structure in accordance with the selected dimensions.
On the drawing we superimpose axial lines passing through the middle of the long and short sides.
Based on the position of the center lines, we mark the places where the foundation elements will be installed

The supports must be placed evenly. For example, for an option with a width of 3.4 and a length of 5 m, the optimal step between concrete columns will be 1.4 m, as shown in the diagram.

Note! Based on the fact that we will mount supports 250x250 mm, the step between the centers of their sockets during installation will need to be 1500-1550 mm.

Next we need to make a drawing of the harness. Using the previous diagram, or better yet, making a copy of it, we draw an image of the bars on paper. As a strapping, it is best to use a wooden beam with a cross-section of 150x150 mm or a board 50x150 mm, which should be reflected in the drawing.
It is also necessary to schematically depict the design of the junction of the racks to the base, including fastening elements and a waterproofing layer made of roofing material or a waterproof membrane.

Finally, we separately draw out the floor structure. As a rule, in gazebos of this type, one layer of solid floor boards laid on logs is sufficient.

Separately, you should consider the situation with installing a stationary stove or barbecue. If the mass of these devices is large, then a floor made using conventional technology may not be able to withstand it. That is why it is worth pouring a separate foundation under the stove, indicating it on the drawing.

Development of frame parts

When the base diagram is ready, you can proceed to building the frame. In most cases, drawings of a rectangular gazebo are built in several projections (a view along the long side and a view along the short side), which allows you to get an idea of general view finished building.

To begin with, as in the case of the base, we draw out the general contours of the structure. Here you need to choose the right height.

The optimal parameters are:

From the zero ground mark to the ridge -4 - 4.5 m.
From ground level to ceiling - 2.8 - 3 m.
From floor to ceiling -2.3-2.5m.
Base – up to 0.5m.

Having marked these heights on the diagram, we proceed to depicting the individual elements:

First of all, we draw a drawing of the racks, making sure that their placement coincides with the placement of the foundation supports.
Then we connect the racks with the top trim, if necessary, representing the ceiling flooring.
Between the posts we draw schematic images of the fences. The fences themselves should be built on a separate sheet on a larger scale.

At the top of the diagram we draw rafters connected to the ridge beam. To facilitate the design, you can also make a drawing showing the upper projection of the placement of the rafters - this will make it easier for us to navigate during installation.

Advice! As in the case of the junction with the foundation, the place where the rafters are attached to top harness draw separately.

At the final stage of work, we apply finishing elements to the diagram: handles, stairs, decorative details, etc. They must be placed in such a way that they do not reduce the performance of the structure itself.

As we noted above, this instruction can also be implemented using computer programs. Naturally, using them requires practice, but in the end, in addition to the drawing, we can get a three-dimensional model of the future gazebo and imagine what your site will look like with this new structure.

Materials and technologies

What we make it from

When constructing drawings with your own hands, you need to constantly keep in mind what materials we have available for the work. And it is precisely on this basis that specific dimensions should be applied to the diagram.

For example, to build the gazebo described in the example, we will need:

Concrete supports 250x250 mm, about 1 m high.
Racks made of 150x150 mm timber, about 2.5 m high.
Boards or beams for strapping (50x150 mm, length from 3.5 to 6 m).
Ceiling beams (50x150 mm, length - 3.5 - 5.5 m).
Rafters (40x120 mm).
Ridge beam (50x150 mm, 2000 mm long).
Flooring boards (40x100 mm).

We will also need:

Fencing elements (polycarbonate sheets on a frame, lattice wooden panels, etc.).
Boards for sheathing and cladding.
Casing boxes for window designs(if any are provided for by the project).
Fastening elements.
Roofing material.

The deciding factors when choosing these parts are your preferences, as well as the availability and price of certain materials in your region.

A gazebo in a country house or in the courtyard of a house is a place for drinking tea and gatherings in summer time. In buildings slightly larger, it can be installed. Then you can think about glazing it: barbecuing in winter is a rare pleasure, and the barbecue will at the same time warm the air inside. They usually start with simpler and cheaper models: they build a gazebo with their own hands, most often there is not enough time. Hence this choice. We’ll talk further about how to do this correctly, about materials, methods, and methods of construction.

A little theory: what types of gazebos are there?

Nothing complicated: let's talk about the types of gazebos and the materials from which they are built. First of all, buildings of this type are divided into open (summer) and closed (glazed). This does not mean at all that there are only these two types: there are also combinations with removable glazing, and there are also awnings made of transparent film, which, if necessary, are stretched over the frame of the gazebo. Another option is that some of the walls are closed, some are open. Choose the one that is closer to you.

With or without floor

Gazebos can also be divided into those with and without floors. Gazebos without a floor are placed on a prepared platform made of paving slabs, poured with concrete, laid with paving stones, etc. Although no one is stopping you from building right on the grass. Only the frame must be treated accordingly: direct contact with the soil requires enhanced protection measures. If we are talking about a wooden gazebo, it is impregnated from rot and fungal infections; if it is made of metal, it is treated with an anti-rust compound.

Gazebos with a floor require a foundation. Most often they make columns. They can be made of brick or rubble, poured with concrete, or foundation blocks placed. If you have large, flat-topped boulders that can support the structure, use them. But all this - if the building is light - is on a frame made of wood or metal. required, albeit shallow (20-30 cm below the level of the fertile layer).

This is also a wooden gazebo, but with a wooden floor. That's why it is raised on supports. The upper part is decorated in an original way - the binding made of processed thin boards looks great

If you want to tile the floor in your summerhouse gazebo, you will have to fill the insulated slab with concrete, and then lay frost-resistant types of tiles on it. Moreover, the insulated slab must be at least 50 cm wider in all directions than the building on it. And these 50 cm are made at a slight slope so that moisture drains. This is actually what will prevent the soil under the gazebo from freezing. This way the tile will not be twisted and cracked.

Materials

The frame of garden or country gazebos is made of three materials:

wooden bursa or round timber of small diameter;
steel pipe (profiled is more convenient);
polymer pipes (PVC).

The only material that does not require protection is polymers. They do not rot or are affected by fungi. Some species tolerate freezing and thawing without much harm. So they can stay over the winter. The only thing is that for a gazebo for a summer house made of PVC pipes to be durable, they need a solid diameter and a thick wall. And even in this case, there is no need to rely on the frame: you will have to install furniture that will not put pressure on the plastic. Well, the grill will need to be placed to the side (if provided).

In order for a wooden garden gazebo to remain attractive for a long time, all wood that will be used in construction must first be coated with a protective impregnation in one or two layers. The cheapest impregnations today are SENEZH and Usadba, and the reviews about them and their protective properties are very good. These manufacturers also have tinting compounds.

This is the whole theory in a nutshell. There may be some other special cases: there are many materials, as well as possibilities for their combination. We will publish the most interesting original gazebos made from non-standard materials at the end of the article. And now - practice.

How to make a gazebo with your own hands

Most often, we build garden gazebos from wood on our own. The second place in popularity is among metal ones. Everything else is done infrequently. Brick and other building materials because they are expensive, made from PVC pipes - because there is no trust in the material.

We will look at an example of building a frame gazebo made of wood. But even if you are going to make it from metal or PVC, the procedure will be the same. Another principle for connecting frame materials, but otherwise everything is the same.

When working with wood, it must first be treated with antibacterial and fire-retardant (reducing the flammability of the material) impregnations. Only after the compositions have dried can you work. If this is not done, the wood will very quickly darken and lose its attractiveness.

Drawing

Two similar projects were implemented, each of the same type: a quadrangular gazebo under gable roof, only with different sizes and they were designed differently. See the photo below for a drawing of one of them.

Rectangular gazebo with hipped roof(in one project the roof was replaced with a gable roof)

Step-by-step instructions with photos

It all starts with preparing the site. If there is turf, remove it, and remove the fertile layer. If this is not done, the roots, greens and all the leftovers will rot. On sandy or sandy loam soils screenings, crushed stone or broken construction waste are poured into the pit, everything is compacted, and sand is covered on top. On clay soils where water drains poorly, it is better to fill the pit and compact it with your own soil (clay, but without a fertile layer). Otherwise, water will accumulate and stagnate in the pit, which will lead to the appearance of unpleasant odor. Not at all what is needed.

Choosing the type of foundation and bottom trim

If you don’t have much time, the fastest way is to install ready-made ones on a compacted pillow. concrete blocks. You will have to spend more time if you build columns from brick, and even more time if you pour them from concrete. The distance between supports should be no more than 1.5-2 meters. More specifically, it depends on the thickness of the timber from which you will make the strapping. Under timber 100*100 mm the distance is 1.5 meters, under metal profile pipe 60*60 mm can be placed every 2 meters.

When all the supports are installed and level (use pegs, a stretched string and a building level), waterproofing is laid on them. This is roofing felt or roofing felt, rolled up in two layers, or bitumen mastic, which is also used to impregnate the surface twice. Then the bottom frame of the timber gazebo is laid. Everything is nailed together with nails of at least 150 mm in length or connected with wood screws. For greater strength, corners are used (if you find reinforced ones - like in the photo - it will be great). Although the gazebo was initially built as a summer gazebo, after some time most people decide to glaze it. That's when the margin of safety will be required.

Installation of racks

At this stage of construction garden gazebo It is important to place the racks strictly vertically. It is not advisable to use a building level: it has a large error, especially household models, which are usually used by developers. Therefore, we take the good old plumb line and set it along it. Check the vertical position on both adjacent sides to ensure that the racks do not fall over.

The racks are fixed with jibs (seen in the photo). If they bother you in the future, you can make a temporary option, as in the photo on the left. If the sheathing below is opaque, do it thoroughly: saw the timber at 45° (it’s more convenient to use a miter box) and nail it diagonally with two or three nails. Check for any misalignment after installing each cut. These small triangles give rigidity to the entire structure and it stops wobbling.

Two projects and two ways to position corner bars correctly. On the left are temporary jibs; they will be removed after installing the harness; on the right are permanent ones.

Top railing and floor boards

Next, after all the racks are installed and secured, the top trim is mounted. There shouldn't be any problems here. To increase the reliability of the connection, use corners. By the way, the racks can also be fixed on the sides with corners. Especially if there are no constant cuts. Otherwise, your structure may collapse due to lateral loads.

After this, the floor boards are laid. It is highly advisable to treat them on all sides with an antibacterial impregnation for wood in direct contact with the ground. Senezh has two such squads. One of them is called “Senezh”, the other “Senezh-Ultra”. They differ in that “Ultra” does not stain the wood, but “Senezh” gives it greenish color. If you cover everything with a dark stain, the greenery will be invisible; such a composition will not be suitable for a light stain.

After laying the floor, it is better to paint the boards, otherwise they will get dirty by the time you finish construction. Therefore, take the time to apply varnish or oil-based tinting paints - the best option for a tree outside. Not to be confused with oil paints! These compositions are often called wood oil because the base is oil to which protective substances and coloring pigments are added. As a result, the wood takes on a different shade (even pink or green, if you so choose), but the texture becomes clearer rather than painted over.

Middle harness

The next step is to install the middle trim, if there is one according to the project. Under the timber in the racks, take out a quarter - a small recess, in in this case with timber 100*100 mm, a quarter is 25 mm.

Making a roof

While the frame of the wooden gazebo is drying, assemble the rafter system. It consists of triangles (look at the photo below).

They are installed on the frame. This project does not provide for a roof overhang. Therefore, they are simply placed strictly vertically and nailed directly to the beam of the upper trim. Such a roof is easy to install, but rain will pour heavily inside even with a slight wind.

If you do it with overhangs (the roof protrudes beyond the perimeter of the gazebo), then you will have to cut out “seats” in the timber for the rafters. They look like triangles (see photo).

Two options are shown. In fact, there are more of them, but since the roof is small, the first, simplest one, will be enough. To avoid fiddling with each triangle, sawing the wood at the top makes a template. Take a piece of board, cut out a hole of the desired shape, try it on, check it, adjust it. Then you simply apply it to all the rafters one by one, trace them with a finely sharpened pencil and cut them out. What is the most convenient way to cut? A jigsaw, but you can also use a hand saw. Having prepared all the triangles, throw them up and install them (with long nails diagonally from the sides, you can also secure them with corners). Before fixing, do not forget to check the vertical and horizontal.

After installing the triangles, crossbars are filled: two on either side of the ridge, and then in increments that depend on the type and type of roofing material. Under, for example, in general continuous lathing needed. Then the entire rafter system is painted. And then it is mounted roofing material(in this case metal profile).

Finishing

The bottom trim is nailed down last. This project uses clapboard, which is then painted with wood oil.

This country gazebo is from the “simple, fast, cheap” category. Having her as an example, you can make something of your own that, in your opinion, is more attractive. Here, for example, is what came out of the same project, but in a different design: covering the veranda from a blockhouse, which was painted in a light color, and the frame was painted in a dark color.

And also this option: summerhouses this project turns out completely different

We will post several more complex projects with drawings and dimensions below, and even more interesting photos, but without drawings at the very bottom. Maybe it will be useful to someone...

Sketches of gazebos with drawings and dimensions

Available sizes can be proportionally increased or decreased. It is important that you understand that with a significant increase in size, the frame requires a more powerful one. Don’t forget about this, and everything will work out for you: a gazebo made by yourself will be beautiful and reliable.

Simple wooden gazebo

Almost the same project, but with different dimensions: the top point of the roof is raised higher, which makes it seem visually lighter. The gazebo is also quadrangular, the roof is hipped.

When installing such a roof, the most problematic ones are the two places (nodes) indicated by circles. How to make them, see the photo below.

Chinese style gazebo (with drawings and dimensions)

Project with all dimensions, foundation markings, roof truss system, etc. Arranged in a photo gallery.

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Main facade - height from floor to top trim 2,160 m Main facade without roof: vertical racks 150*150 mm Cross section of a wooden gazebo. In the photo on the right - how to make raised ends of the roof Installation of floor beams (numbers are the designation of the material from the specification) Detailing of node 2 - how to install racks How to make steps to the veranda - node 2 Fastening the rafter system to the top frame - with wooden pins

Large gazebo on the foundation

Before you build this gazebo you need. Its parameters depend on the soil, the material you are going to use for the frame: metal or wood, and what you are going to use to glaze it. In general, the width of the tape is about 20 cm, the depth is 20-30 cm deeper than the level of the fertile layer. On heaving soils it is better to do so.

Drawing of a gazebo-swing

Gazebo swing requires special attention: they fasten it very firmly so that the alternating loads that arise do not loosen or overturn the structure. To do this, you can extend the legs downwards, dig a hole under them, fill them with crushed stone, compact them, and then fill everything with liquid concrete mortar. If you make the frame from a pipe, no questions arise; for wood you can use “U”-shaped fasteners with a pin mounted in the lower part. Here you can bend it and fill it with concrete.

For even greater reliability, crossbars are attached to the legs, which are slightly recessed into the ground. They are nailed in with U-shaped staples.

Photos of original wooden gazebos without drawings

This is an option - both stone and wood. Supports made of timber are installed on columns made of rubble stone. The style is the same - withered trees are used as supports