A magnificent decoration home interior are ornamental plants. Among them, undoubtedly, there will be blooming representatives of the flora, which from different parts of the world end up on the windowsills of city apartments. Thanks to their sophistication and variety of forms, tropical beauties orchids are extremely popular. The most common is the Phalaenopsis orchid. It will delight you with bright, colorful blooms and at the same time it is affordable and easy to care for.

Description

If you decide to purchase a tropical beauty for home grown, then the Phalaenopsis orchid will be the best.

Even a novice gardener can cope with this plant. This exotic flower represented by a huge number of varieties. They are distinguished by their relative unpretentiousness. The flower petals of the Phalaenopsis orchid look like the wings of tropical butterflies. They are different in shape and color. They appear on the plant several times a year. The flowering period can last from two to three months. This does not require additional lighting or humidification. The smooth, leathery leaves are green in color. different shades. There are certain growing rules under which plants will develop and bloom normally. Diseases of Phalaenopsis orchids occur when temperature conditions are not observed, waterlogging and lack of ventilation. Care exotic plant not complicated. However, it differs from the activities that are performed when growing other indoor plants.

Phalaenopsis orchid: diseases, care

Tropical beauty hybrids are specially bred for growing in room conditions. It will be necessary to maintain a daytime temperature ranging from 20 to 24 degrees Celsius, and a nighttime temperature from 15 to 18 degrees Celsius. Often, room conditions do not allow this parameter to be observed exactly. In this case, it is necessary to achieve a difference in day and night temperatures, which should be at least two or three degrees. Sufficient air humidity is 50 - 70%. Plants are placed on window sills of any light level, protected from drafts and access to cold air.

Particular attention is paid to the soil. The wrong choice can lead to orchid disease. A special composition is used as soil:

• bark substrate - 3 parts;
• sphagnum - 2 parts;
• charcoal - one part.

The orchid pot should provide good soil aeration. It is better to use special transparent plastic pots designed for growing these plants. Proper watering will prevent diseases of home orchids.

Pay special attention to plant nutrition. Excessive fertilization can lead to orchid disease. At home, after purchasing the plant, minimal feeding will be required. Too much fertilizer can cause the plant to not bloom and the leaves may become dull and broken.

Phalaenopsis orchid: diseases and treatment

Houseplants are susceptible to various ailments. Orchids are no exception. Diseases that affect these plants can be divided according to the type of pathogen:

• fungal;
• bacterial;
• viral.

Each of them can attack different parts of the plant. Diseases manifest themselves in the form of: rot, spotting, plaque. Depending on the type of pathogen, certain timely treatment is applied.

Fungal diseases

Orchid diseases can be provoked by severe waterlogging, violation of temperature and ventilation conditions. In this case, favorable conditions are created for intensive development mushrooms They are a source of disease. Fungal diseases cause root rot.

This disease can lead to the death of the orchid. The root system affected by rot decomposes, and the leaves and stem of the plant dry out completely.

No less dangerous are fungal tracheomycosis. Orchid diseases caused by this pathogen affect the vascular system of the plant. At the same time, the lower leaves of the orchid gradually turn yellow and the lower parts of the stem, neck and roots rot. Growth as a whole stops. The disease is practically incurable and leads to the death of the plant. All kinds of spots cause diseases of orchid leaves. These include: powdery mildew, rust, anthracnose, septoria, stangosporosis, phyllosticosis, cercospora. These diseases also affect flowers.

Fungicides are used to treat fungal diseases. It is advisable to use biological products that are less toxic than chemicals.

Diseases of bacterial origin

Weakened, injured plants are susceptible. Orchid diseases are caused by bacteria that penetrate the tissue. Root rot quickly affects the entire plant. Within a week the plant dies. Bacterial spots affect the leaves of the plant.

Once pathogenic bacteria enter, the disease develops rapidly. Oily spots appear, the diameter of which reaches two centimeters. Disastrous bacterial diseases orchids, and their treatment does not provide special drugs that can prevent them. The use of synthetic antibiotics is proposed. Symptoms of bacterial and fungal diseases are similar. And if it is difficult to accurately determine the nature of the damage to the plant, it is advisable to use fungicides and antibiotics together.

Viral diseases

It is impossible to determine these ailments at home. This requires laboratory tests. Orchid diseases appear in the form of all kinds of spots of various configurations. Exist viral infections, which can cause the plant to suffer for several years. Others cause rapid development of the disease. These infections are practically untreatable. Weakened orchids are the first to be infected. “Care - disease” - this connection is directly related to the condition of the plant. If it is infected with a virus, it can be saved from death by changing the conditions of detention. Very often it is external conditions, and not the condition of the plant itself, are the cause leading to the occurrence of orchid disease, and their treatment must begin, first of all, with the elimination of favorable conditions content.

Preventive actions

Diseases are easier to prevent than to treat. To favorite plant not moping, you should strictly follow all the rules for caring for him. A strong orchid is less susceptible to infection. New acquisitions are kept in quarantine for a month. If the first signs of the disease appear, the plant is isolated. During the treatment period, it is kept in a dry room and no fertilizer is applied.

Pests

The Phalaenopsis orchid is fabulously beautiful. Diseases and pests plague cultivation of this plant. Unfortunately, there are quite a lot of both. They primarily attack weakened plants. But it often happens that even with good care Pests will appear on tropical beauties surrounded by attention and care. At the same time, the affected orchids are isolated. Diseases and pests can spread to other, uninfected plants. The quarantine will last until complete recovery. When fighting pests, it is necessary to be able to identify them and have information on how to combat them.

Scale insects (Coccidae) and false scale insects

Houseplants are damaged by various pests. Moreover, many of them are equally dangerous for different flower crops. Most often, orchids suffer from scale insects and false scale insects. These pests have the same external characteristics. Most often, orchids are affected by the Palm scale insect.

Oval-shaped pests reach a diameter of one or two millimeters. The scutellum is covered with white waxy hairs. They multiply intensively and cover the plant completely. Scale insects are sucking insects that feed on plant sap. When spread en masse, they can destroy an orchid.

Pest control

To destroy scale insects, special preparations are used. Before using it, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the entire plant from the pest. Carry out wet treatment. After this, the substrate and orchid are sprayed with special preparations. When fighting scale insects, it is recommended to use “Fitoverin”, “Aktelika” or “Aktara”. Processing is carried out strictly according to the instructions included with the preparations. Repeated treatment will be necessary, which is performed after a week or ten days. The treated plant is transplanted into a new pot filled with fresh substrate. As a preventive measure, wipe the leaves at intervals of five days.

Mealybug

One of the types of quite dangerous pests that affects orchids. Diseases and pests require timely treatment. The mealybug looks like a small fluffy oblong lump. The white-bodied insect has long antennae. Its location is difficult to determine. The usual habitat is the leaf axils in the root zone of the orchid.

They feed on the sap of the plant. The lesion is noticed when the plant begins to wither. At the same time, the leaves turn yellow and wither.

Pest control methods

If an insect attack was missed and its presence is noticed after an orchid disease, a thorough examination of the affected parts of the plant is carried out. Dried leaves and roots are removed. The affected areas are treated with water with the addition of laundry soap. Insects are removed with pointed sticks. The substrate is treated with a special preparation "Fitoverm". It is used in accordance with the instructions. Three-time treatment is carried out with a weekly interval. The plant must be quarantined for a month. During this period of time, carefully examine the orchid.

Whitefly

A small white butterfly is an orchid pest. The whitefly and its larvae feed on plant sap. It becomes weakened. As a result, various orchid diseases may occur. Pests move freely. The larvae are located on leaves and roots.

The affected parts of the plant gradually dry out.

Control measures

Inspecting orchids. Places where insect eggs are laid are treated with a solution of laundry soap. To disinfect the substrate, use the drug "Fitoverm".

Spider mites

Among the pests of orchids, mites are considered the most dangerous. They are quite small. They can be identified visually by external signs plant damage. This is the appearance of a silvery coating.

The ticks feed on orchid cell sap. Intensive reproduction of these pests can lead to significant damage to the plant.

Fighting spider mites

Mechanical and chemical methods. First of all, you should manually remove pests from the plant. The flowerpot in which the orchid grows should be washed. It is placed in a container with water. It is also necessary to pay attention to the place in which the flower was located. The substrate is sprayed twice, at weekly intervals, with the Fitoverma solution.

Nematodes: description, control methods

Numerous pests of orchids include roundworms - nematodes. Small worms penetrate the stem and roots. They feed on the juice and nutrients of the orchid. Diseases and pests are interconnected. As a result of the vital activity of nematodes, the plant weakens and is exposed to various diseases. The combined impact of diseases and pests leads to the death of the plant. To eliminate the pest, the substrate is treated. Prepare a solution of the drugs "Dekaris" or "Levimisil" at the rate of 1 tablet per liter of water. The substrate is poured onto them. More effective action involves soaking the entire plant, which is previously removed from the flowerpot, in the prepared solution.

Thrips: detection, methods of elimination

Quite often, pests can be found in purchased plants. The first action after purchase is to detect any unwanted surprises that may be hidden in the substrate. It is not difficult to identify insects. It is necessary to prepare a small container of water for bathing the pots with the plant. Insects that enter the substrate will leave it within ten minutes.

Thrips are tiny black bugs that can move quickly. They live in orchid substrate. Tiny insects infect almost the entire plant. They feed on its juice, as well as young roots and leaves. Timely detection of insects can save the flower. The affected orchid is isolated from other indoor flowers. She is washed thoroughly warm water. Damaged areas are removed, leaving only healthy tissue.

Aphids: places of damage, control methods

Detect this dangerous pest possible with the naked eye. Entire colonies of pests infect almost all parts of the plant. The underside of leaves, buds and flowers, and shoots become discolored when damaged. The plant weakens greatly and stops developing normally. This leads to orchid disease. The entire plant is covered in sticky insect secretions.

If a pest is detected, they are mechanically removed. Severely affected areas of the orchid are removed. After this, spray twice with a weekly interval with special preparations. To destroy aphids, it is recommended to use the following drugs: “Decis”, “Aktelik”, “Fitoverm”.

The house orchid, or as scientists call it - Phalaenopsis, can rightfully be called one of the most tenacious, but demanding of care, window plants. It requires a minimum of effort, but in return you will receive gratitude in the form of abundant flowering for about six months, or even more. However, no matter how tenacious home orchids are, even they can catch the disease and begin to fade.

Orchid Phalaenopsis diseases at home - photo

But how to recognize orchid disease at an early stage, or better yet, prevent its occurrence altogether? This article is devoted to the answers to these questions.

Prevention of Phalaenopsis diseases

Prevention should begin at the very moment when the flower first appears in your apartment. So, such a wonderful living decoration as the indoor Phalaenopsis orchid has appeared in your home. It doesn’t matter at all how the green pet was obtained, whether you took it from friends, or bought it at a flower shop, whether it’s the only new one, or just part of a huge greenhouse, the rules are the same for all cases: water treatments and a month's quarantine.

There is no other way, because apart from luxurious and unpretentious decoration, you can also acquire various uninvited guests, such as various harmful fungi, insects, or bacteria that can threaten not only the orchid itself, but also all your plants, or even family members.

Orchid pests and their treatment

It is very easy to get rid of insects, you just need to place the substrate in a container with water for about an hour, after this time, all the pests of the orchid will float to the surface, even those that were initially hidden from view. But this method is not a panacea, and to be sure that nothing is left, you should place the phalaenopsis separately from other plants and observe for a month.

Signs of illness

Symptoms of the disease can be very different, but the most common are changes such as yellowing, rotting, or cracking of foliage; damage to the root system - for good reason, the roots should be strong enough and have a greenish or silver color, and the plant itself should be perfectly held in the substrate. However, if the root is brownish-brown in color, is dry and breaks easily, then it is necessary to take emergency measures to treat the plant.

Orchid - root treatment

First you need to very carefully free the roots of the flower from the substrate. After which, having previously disinfected the tools with alcohol, it is necessary to cut off all dead tissue in the root system.

The amputation sites should be treated with activated carbon in powder form.

It is also advisable to remove leaves occupied by infection, of course, if they are not the last ones.

If you plan to use old soil to plant an orchid, be sure to boil it and wait until it cools down until room temperature. It is better to put it in the pot while still wet. While you are busy preparing the soil, the roots of the flower itself should be kept in a plastic bag filled with carbon dioxide. When the flower takes its permanent place, it should not be watered until the substrate is completely dry, usually this takes about ten to fourteen days.

Video: Treatment of phalaenopsis orchid roots

Phalaenopsis orchid leaf diseases

Phalaenopsis is a plant that is very demanding of special conditions. At improper care behind phalaenopsis, the leaves may begin to turn yellow. There are many reasons for these yellowings, which we will now consider.

Light-related leaf diseases

First of all, we will look at the lighting problem. The leaves of the phalaenopsis orchid can turn yellow both from a lack of light and from excess. It is better to illuminate the plant with bright, diffused light. Do not place phalaenopsis in the back of the room or in the scorching midday sun. Due to lack of light, the leaves of the plant grow narrower and smaller, and the stem becomes elongated.

From an excess of light, the leaves will burn and have a pale color, they may turn yellow and become lethargic and rough. Optimizing lighting or treating leaves with different preparations can stop leaf dying. Unfortunately, this will not restore the old leaves, but the new ones will grow strong and green.

Aging of the lower leaves of an orchid

The second reason we will consider is the natural aging of the lower leaves. Usually, one orchid leaf lives life cycle in the amount of 1 to 5 years, depending on the type of phalaenopsis. When the life cycle of a leaf ends, it simply dies, while its tips turn yellow towards the base and, when exhausted, dry out. Another reason for the dying off of leaves is the lack of strength to create new roots in phalaenopsis.

Phalaenopsis orchid - lower leaves turn yellow

In this case, the plant begins to feed on substances from lower leaves and, thereby, forming new roots. If the leaves have died naturally, there is no need to hastily remove the yellow leaves. It is necessary to allow the orchid to collect all the useful substances and microelements from it. When this happens, the dead leaf will move away from the orchid on its own, without additional help.

The leaves are turning yellow

A common problem that the leaves of the phalaenopsis plant may suffer from is insufficient or excessive watering. As a rule, the leaves begin to turn yellow from below and have all the usual signs that are characteristic of improper watering.

Phalaenopsis orchid - leaves turn yellow

If the plants are watered too often, the leaves become soft, the roots darken and black spots appear on the stem. But, excessive watering threatens the death of the entire plant and, most likely, it will need to be revived. Also, if you do not water the orchid enough, the roots will dry out and become brittle, and the leaves on the orchid will wrinkle.

Diseases of Phalaenopsis from feeding

Let's move on to the problems of feeding. Phalaenopsis is sensitive to different types of fertilizing. You can give the plant too large doses of fertilizer or not feed it for a long time, and soon yellow leaves will begin to appear on your phalaenopsis, and the roots will turn black, which worsens the condition of the plant.

This is not the most a big problem, since the turgor of the leaves is not disturbed, but these leaves will not recover. You need to properly optimize nutrition for your plant. If you overdo it with fertilizer, you will need to completely replace the substrate.

Other diseases and pests

Let's consider the problems of diseases, pests and hypothermia. Orchid leaves can turn yellow from various infectious and fungal diseases. Most often, such problems are treated with special medications.

Pests pose a significant threat, such as:

• spider mites;
• mealyworms.

As with diseases, pests will need to be removed using third-party means. Phalaenopsis, like other plants, loves warmth. If the plant does not receive enough heat and is overcooled, the leaves may also turn yellow.

Phalaenopsis diseases and pests - photos

Even a few hours of leaving the plant in a cold place is enough and it will begin to turn yellow. In this case, treatment will not be able to restore the leaves, but will help prevent the spread yellow spots on phalaenopsis. So choose the temperature of the room where the plant will be kept wisely.

Video: Orchid pest control

Scale insects, mites, scale insects, and aphids are dangerous tenants of our plants that urgently need to be gotten rid of.

Conclusion

In this article, we looked at the most common reasons why the leaves of a phalaenopsis orchid may turn yellow. Monitor the temperature, lighting, feeding and watering, and your orchid will be healthy and strong.

Today the orchid is not so much rare plant V indoor flower garden. However, it is susceptible to various diseases and requires special care. Unfortunately, it is difficult to find any complete information about the contents of the flower, orchid diseases and their treatment.

Therefore, we tried to cover common problems and difficulties in growing orchids.

Problems with orchid flowering, ways to eliminate them

This indoor plant quite demanding and capricious. Therefore, if you just brought it home after purchasing it and it begins to fade, this is not unusual. You just need to find a suitable place for it and properly care for it.

Orchid doesn't bloom

In order not to worry about the flowering of an orchid, even at the time of purchase you need to clarify what kind of variety it is and what its flowering period is. The fact is that different types flowers bloom in different time . But it happens that the expected flowering does not occur, while the green mass continues to grow. The main reasons for the lack of buds are the following:

• sudden changes in temperature;
• improper watering;
• violation of rest regime;
• lack of light.

Did you know? The most common reason for the lack of flowers on a plant is a lack of light, which is why the plant itself begins to wither. Most varieties of orchids do not do well even in partial shade, but varieties such as Paphiopedilum and Phalaenopsis can bloom in such conditions.

The lack of light is indicated by the color of the leaves: they become bright green, whereas their natural color is light green. If the leaves turn yellow, this indicates an excess amount of ultraviolet radiation, that is, excess lighting. Control measures: the flower should be placed in a more illuminated place or removed to partial shade.

Another common problem when there is no flowering is root diseases. It's difficult to define. Sometimes, even when the roots rot, the orchid continues to bloom.

But if it hasn’t bloomed for a long time, and everything is fine with the lighting, you should check root system. Most often, it begins to rot due to excessive watering.

In this case, replanting the plant and removing damaged parts of the rhizome will help. Periodic replanting is, in principle, beneficial for its development.

Orchid buds fade

As a rule, in this case the problems turn out to be the same as those described above. But there may be additional reasons. First of all, the orchid reacts very sensitively to a change of place of residence. If you recently bought it and brought it home, it is not surprising that the orchid buds wither and fall off.

Important! Main role Lighting plays a role in this process. It is logical that in the greenhouse it was suitable and sufficient, but in your home it may not be enough or, conversely, there may be too much. Please note that there are shade-loving and light-loving varieties of orchids; this point must be clarified when purchasing a plant. So, on northern and northeastern windows you can grow cambria and phalaenopsis. Angrecums, cymbidiums, laelias, cattleyas, vandas and others are considered light-loving.

In addition, there may be problems with hypothermia of orchids. These are very heat-loving plants, so you need to make sure that in winter the temperature in the room does not fall below 22°C. Please note that air humidity must be at least 70%, otherwise the flowers will also begin to fall off.

The orchid loves good air circulation, but does not tolerate drafts. She also reacts sharply to presence of different food products nearby, especially fruits and vegetables that emit ethylene. He provokes accelerated maturation buds that can wither and fall off without even opening.

Another reason for the wilting of buds can be pests. In particular, the mealybug feeds on their juice, leading to the premature death of the bud.

Do not forget that withering and falling of flowers is natural process. Duration of flowering different varieties also not the same. Some delight with variegated flowers for several months, others for several weeks. It is likely that you bought the plant after flowering.

Dark spots on flowers

Sometimes they arise not because of diseases, but due to mechanical damage during transportation of the plant. Such spots do not spread throughout the flower, dry out, and have uneven edges.

However, spotting may occur due to moisture getting on the petals during watering or condensation when the plant was transported in packaging. Because of this, flowers can not only become stained, but also fall off.

If the plant is still in the sun, then where water gets on the petals, a burn may occur - the water will act like a lens.

Did you know? Can cause brown spots on flowers fungal disease. In this case, they can deteriorate literally overnight, when the entire plant becomes covered in spots. In this case, the affected leaves and stems will be watery, and a moldy coating may appear on them.

Rot: prevention and treatment

Most often when indoor growing orchids have to deal with rot. Moreover, problems mainly arise due to excessive care.

The plant appears watery, light-colored brown spots on the leaves. Mostly young people. After some time, they darken, grow, gradually merging with each other. Moreover, the lower the temperature environment The more abundant the watering, the faster these processes occur.

If you have just discovered these signs of orchid disease, you can still help it, cutting out the damaged areas with a sharp tool, grabbing some healthy tissue. The cut edges must be treated with a preparation containing copper or crushed coal.

If these manipulations cannot be done, the flower cannot be saved. It is better to get rid of it before the disease spreads to other flowerpots.

Most often, brown bacterial rot affects orchid varieties such as paphiopedilum, cymbidium, cattleya, and phalaenopsis. Prevention of such diseases consists of spraying the plant with a solution of copper sulfate once a month.

affects the roots of the plant, which soften and deteriorate. At the same time, the leaves of the plant acquire a brown tint. The cause of these processes is too high air humidity and temperature.

To get rid of the disease, it is necessary to adjust the conditions of the plant, as well as treat the roots and soil with topsin solution (0.2%) or foundationazole solution (0.2%). This must be done three times, maintaining an interval of approximately three weeks. As a rule, to do this, the pot is immersed in a solution.

To prevent the disease, you should use a high-quality substrate for planting, previously disinfected. Most often, orchids of the Paphiopedilum, Miltonia, and Cymbidium varieties need such care.

The orchid is also characterized by a leaf disease such as gray rot. It's easy to determine: Dark islands appear on the leaves, covered with a fluffy gray coating. Gradually, rot moves from the leaves to the soil, then to the flowers, and then to the entire plant. The disease can also start from flowers, covering them with small brown spots.

The disease occurs due to improper care - high humidity air combined with low temperature. But sometimes the cause is excessive use of fertilizers with a high nitrogen content, which reduces the plant’s resistance to this disease.

- this is a fungal disease. Therefore, to combat it, it is necessary to remove damaged areas from the plant, and completely treat with fungicides.

Moreover, if the chosen drug did not help and after some time the signs of the disease appeared again, you need to use another drug. When watering, you should use products that increase the plant’s resistance to disease.

Important! Try not to place orchids close to each other or other plants. Then, if gray rot occurs on one plant, the fungal spores will not be able to spread to the neighboring one.

Gray mold most readily “settles” on orchids that bloom with white flowers: cattleyas, cymbidiums, phalaenopsis.

A fungal disease occurs when the flower is kept in too cold a room. Especially if the plant was sick before or survived a pest attack. In this case, spots on the orchid leaves are removed with a sharp and sterile instrument, and the cut edges are treated with Bordeaux mixture or charcoal.
Next, the plant must be transplanted into another pot or into the same one, but pre-sterilized. It is planted in a fresh sterile substrate, and the old one must be disposed of. After transplantation, the necessary conditions are created for the plant.

Frequent patients with a similar diagnosis are orchids of the Cattleya and Paphiopedilum varieties.

If the orchid leaves turn yellow or spots appear on them, you'll probably have to deal with fusarium rot. In this case, the leaves soften, curl, and fungal spores give them a pinkish tint.

The main cause of such diseases is high humidity with poor air circulation. Most often, orchids of the Epidendrum, Miltonia, and Phalaenopsis varieties suffer from this disease if the necessary conditions are not met.

It is recommended as a treatment treating the plant three times a day with a solution of foundationazole (0.2%). Treat all plants carefully, as rot spots may appear on the shoots. At the same time, during the treatment period, you must stop spraying the plant and make sure that it does not stand in drafts.

Leaf diseases: symptoms, prevention and treatment

Orchid diseases can be viral, bacterial or fungal in nature and manifest themselves in completely different ways: in the form of plaque, stains, rot. Accordingly, each disease has its own treatment method.

Important! Almost all orchids lose their color over time, even with proper care. Lack of light weakens the plant's immunity, but the light-loving orchid does not tolerate direct sunlight. Particular care must be taken to accustom the orchid to the spring sun, shading those plants that stand on the south side so that they do not get sunburn. Gradually getting used to the sun, the flowers will require shading only on a hot afternoon.

Most often, this fungal disease affects the leaves of the plant. They appear as tiny but distinct round brown spots that enlarge as they connect with each other. Large affected areas turn black, forming holes. If the plant is sick for a long time, a pink or yellowish coating may appear in these areas.

Causes: stagnant water in the leaf axils and high air humidity.

Treatment begins with trimming the affected areas. The sections must be treated with ash or activated carbon, and the plant itself must be treated with preparations containing copper. Treatment is carried out three times with breaks of ten days. In this case, it is necessary to reduce watering and completely abandon fertilizing.

To prevent fungus It is necessary to ensure that the air humidity does not exceed 70% and does not fall below 40%, while regularly and well ventilating the room. Monitor the presence of water in the axils of the leaves and pseudobulbs. If it collects there, remove it in time with a napkin or cloth.

Orchids of the phalaenopsis, paphiopedilum, oncidium, and miltonia varieties are mainly susceptible to this disease.

Phalaenopsis orchids are the most susceptible to this disease. First, the leaves of infected plants turn yellow, then darken, then soften and crack. Liquid appears in the resulting ulcers.

To get rid of the disease,such areas are cut out with a sterile and sharp instrument, the sections are treated with iodine or activated carbon. If there are a lot of spots or the lobar vein is damaged, the treatment must be carried out with stronger preparations. If after such procedures there is no relapse within 10 days, then the plant has recovered and is not contagious.

The disease occurs due to too bright lighting in the warm season, excessive use of fertilizers or improper watering.

Fractures in the leaves can cause normal mechanical damage. However, in some cases they indicate that sufficient watering orchid or its severe hypothermia after watering.

Also pay attention to fertilizers. If they contain too much nitrogen, this can also cause deformation of the plant's leaves: thickening, breaks, cracks, and a change in color to dark green.

To get rid of the problem, it is enough to refuse fertilizer for some time. It is also recommended to wash the roots of the plant and replant it. Please note that after this procedure, the orchid may be delayed in growth for some time - this is a normal process.

This kind of damage usually appears on plants in spring and summer. When solar activity increases. Orchids need light large quantities, but scattered, and direct rays of the sun are, as a rule, destructive for her and cause burns.

Remaining droplets of moisture on the leaves and petals also provoke similar consequences. In this case, water, multiplying the strength of the sun's rays, contributes to the burning of the leaves - discolored areas with a brown edge appear on them. Over time, they dry out, forming holes.

The affected plant must be shaded, giving Special attention watering, but not flooding the flower. Heavily damaged areas must be removed by processing the edges of the cut. It is better not to use fertilizing during this period.

About the appearance powdery mildew speaks white coating on the leaves and buds of the flower. The areas covered with it dry out over time, and the plant itself dies. The disease occurs in conditions of high humidity combined with high temperature - the so-called greenhouse effect.

As soon as you discover signs of this disease, you should immediately adjust your care and begin treatment. For this the plant is treated with Topsin-M, Skor or a solution of colloidal sulfur.

As a preventive measure the orchid should be sprayed with Fitosporin. This is recommended for all home orchids, since any of them has a risk of contracting powdery mildew.

Relatively rare, but no less dangerous disease. It is also fungal in nature and primarily affects the leaves of the plant.

Moreover, it first affects the lower part of the leaf, forming light spots. Over time, red pads appear on them, in which fungal spores ripen. Please note that the disease appears on the weakest parts of the plant.

To get rid From him, it is necessary to remove the affected areas, no matter how large they are. Do not forget to disinfect the cut areas with a 20% alcohol solution or activated carbon. Also recommended treat the plant with the preparations “Mikosan”, “Ridomil”, “Skor”, “Topsin-M”.

The plant becomes sick due to the appearance of various pests on it: white scale insects, mealybugs, aphids. Its spores reproduce well in their sweet secretions.

The fungus grows, clogging the stomata of the leaves. As a result, the plant does not receive the required amount of light, weakens and, if left untreated, dies. Treatment consists of treatment with the same drugs: Mikosan, Ridomil, Skor, Topsin-M.

Viral diseases of orchids

Oddly enough, orchids can also suffer from viral diseases. If a similar diagnosis is found in one plant, it must be urgently removed from the others and destroyed. Doesn't exist at all effective methods treating plants against viruses.

The most unpleasant thing is that the virus does not appear in the plant for a long time. This may be indicated by a change in the shape and color of the plant. Remember: if you have several flowerpots and general watering in one container, all plants are infected.
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For orchids of this type, rooms well lit with diffused sunlight are suitable. In nature, phalaenopsis grow on trees, and the sun's rays have to overcome the crown on the way to them. The eastern location of windows is considered ideal. If they are oriented to the south, control the intensity of solar radiation in summer. Prolonged exposure to direct rays is detrimental to the plant. Protection will be provided by shading the windows with paper, reflective foil, and pieces of wallpaper. Phalaenopsis tends to reach for light. In order for it to maintain stability and an aesthetically pleasing appearance, it must be rotated periodically.

Plants placed on northern and western windows will have less flowering intensity. For proper development and flowering, Phalaenopsis needs 12, or preferably 15, hours of daylight.

The temperature regime required by this type of orchid does not contradict what is usually found in most residential premises. In summer it is +25, +28 degrees, in winter - +18, +20 is enough.

One of the main features of these orchids is that they practically complete absence periods of rest.

To lay flowers, phalaenopsis needs a decrease in temperature at night by 5–7 degrees. This temperature range is common or quite possible in houses and apartments.

But lowering the temperature to +10 degrees can lead to the roots losing their ability to absorb moisture. The plant transfers metabolic processes to the consumption of previously accumulated reserves, which is fraught with rapid wear and tear of the life support system. The roots gradually atrophy, the leaves wrinkle, and the plant dies. Sometimes this reaction to low temperatures is confused with insufficient watering. And an increase in the amount of moisture in such a situation further aggravates the situation.

Phalaenopsis needs fresh air. Frequent ventilation is very beneficial for the plant, but it must be protected from drafts, otherwise the plant may get sick.

This type of orchid is quite moisture-loving. For its normal functioning, it is necessary to constantly maintain humidity at a level of 60–80%.

If during the cold season the room is heated with electric convectors or other devices that dry the air, the orchid must be additionally moistened with a spray bottle. In this case, the root system should be moistened more, not the leaves.

Diseases and pests that most often affect the plant

Corrupted by rot

A separate broad category in this list are various types of rot. The list of possible symptoms is very wide and depends on local conditions, air humidity, watering intensity and room temperature. Let us list the most common and pronounced cases:

• brown rot;
• black rot;
• root rot;
• gray rot;
• fusarium rot.

What does a limp, blackening leaf mean?

Some common phalaenopsis diseases show their symptoms on the leaves of the plant. Timely noticed changes in the color, structure and density of leaves will help prevent the most harmful consequences.

The most common diagnoses:

• powdery mildew;
• anthracnose;
• leaf spotting.

If an orchid viral disease is diagnosed, it, unfortunately, cannot be treated or resuscitated. This plant needs to be eliminated. Most effective way- burn the orchid.

A separate type of danger is the development of viral and fungal diseases in places where aphid waste products accumulate. Such places themselves become breeding grounds for diseases.

Table: problems encountered when growing phalaenopsis

Treatment and prevention of diseases

As can be seen from the table of symptoms, phalaenopsis is susceptible to many types of rot, which affect all parts of the plant. This variety of diseases associated with rotting is due to the moisture-loving nature of the flower, the specificity of substrate moisture and instability to long-term temperature changes.

The appearance of viral and fungal diseases in most cases is associated with poor-quality, contaminated substrate. Less commonly, viral diseases are transferred to the plant from other indoor flowers.

What to do when a plant starts to rot

Treatment of diseases such as brown and black rot in advanced stages (more than 30% of the plant is affected) is almost impossible. If a smaller area is affected by rotting, you can try to save the flower. To do this you need to perform some kind of operation. Carefully cut out the affected areas with a sterile knife, trying to minimize damage to healthy tissue. After the operation, sprinkle the cut areas with coal dust and treat Bordeaux mixture. The substrate should be thrown away, the pots should be sterilized, and clean, healthy substrate should be poured into them.

During rehabilitation, the orchid needs to create the most comfortable conditions: minimum permissible air temperature difference (amplitude 5–7 degrees), stable humidification, air circulation in the room, but without drafts.

If there are other orchids in close proximity to the affected plant, they need to be treated with Bordeaux mixture (you can also use another copper-containing preparation). The best prevention of such diseases is careful adherence to ventilation, moisture, watering and lighting regimes.

If root rot is detected in phalaenopsis, immediate action must be taken. Remove the substrate and dry the pot. Clean the roots from rot and remove the affected areas. After this, the root system must be treated in a special solution (0.2% Topsin or Fundazol). For the most beneficial effect, the roots are immersed in the solution 2-3 times with an interval of 10 days. Such an orchid should be transplanted into a disinfected, clean substrate.

Prevention of root rot means careful adherence to the moisture and watering regime, as well as monitoring the condition of the substrate and its timely replacement.

The defeat of an orchid by fusarium rot is most often associated with poor air circulation and a violation of the watering regime. This rot affects all areas of the leaves, as well as young shoots. The leaves turn yellow, curl, and become soft. Sometimes the process of fusarium rotting is accompanied by the appearance of a pink coating of fungal spores. With large-scale damage, treatment is impossible. In case of local infection, the orchid should be treated in a 0.2% solution of Fundazol. This procedure should be performed 2-3 times a day for 10-14 days. In this case, the entire plant along with the pot can be immersed in the solution. Fundazol is the most effective fungicidal drug in the fight against fusarium rot.

Fundazol is used to treat various types rot, in particular fusarium. It is also suitable for preventing powdery mildew. Basics active remedy This drug contains benomyl, which inhibits the life processes of pathogenic cells, as a result of which they die. System preventive measures with the use of Fundazol will help prevent most putrefactive and fungal diseases of orchids. The proportions for the solution are as follows: 1 gram of Fundazol per 1 liter of water. The solution can be applied using a sprayer. Water the soil with the solution and wipe the leaves. After the solution dries, a white coating will appear on the plant. It is recommended to wash off the plaque only after a day. This is a fairly toxic substance, so it should be used in protective equipment. In many countries, Fundazol is banned due to toxicity. It is highly recommended not for pregnant women to come into contact with it.

During treatment, spraying with water should be stopped. Direct drafts should not be allowed to enter the plant, but ventilation is necessary.

As in previous cases, the best prevention of Fusarium will be unconditional adherence to the regimes and rules for caring for phalaenopsis.

The fight against gray mold involves removing the affected areas followed by treating healthy tissues with preparations containing fungicides. If the damage is extensive (more than 50%), the plant will have to be eliminated and all nearby indoor flowers will have to be treated with fungicides.

A fungicide is a substance (chemical or biological origin) that inhibits the development of fungi.

Prevention of gray rot is similar to the actions described above.

Another danger is fungi

Leaf spot and anthracnose are fungal diseases. Their symptoms are expressed by multiple local damage to leaves dark color. Such damage is more like dents. Phalaenopsis is affected by anthracnose mainly due to high humidity. Another reason may be stagnation of water in the bowls of young leaves and at the growing point. It is better to eliminate an extensively affected plant. If there are not very many affected areas, they can be cut off and healthy tissues treated with ash. Crushed will also work Activated carbon. The substrate should be changed and the pot sterilized. Throughout the entire rehabilitation period, the plant must be isolated from other similar flowers.

Prevention of fungal diseases means strictly following the watering and moistening regime, as well as preventing water from entering the growth point and axils of young orchid shoots. Humidity room air should be between 40–70%. Ventilation is frequent enough, depending on the time of year.

A disease such as powdery mildew has pronounced symptoms. They are characterized by the appearance of a white coating on the plant. Moreover, such a coating appears on all parts of the plant, including buds and inflorescences. This disease develops quickly and leads to the death of the orchid if the necessary treatment measures are not taken in time. Increased temperature and abnormally high air humidity contribute to the faster development of this disease.

The treatment method involves soaking the plant in a solution of colloidal sulfur. Drugs intended to combat powdery mildew, called Topsin-M, Skor, Fundazol.

Prevention includes periodic spraying of phalaenopsis with Fitosporin.

Viral diseases are incurable

The defeat of the phalaenopsis orchid by viral diseases is a rare phenomenon. They appear as specific patterns and spots on the leaves of the plant. The affected plant must be immediately isolated from the rest and, without delay, eliminated. Treatments viral diseases There are no orchids yet. In this case, it is better to burn the orchid along with the substrate and pot.

Prevention of viral diseases will be compliance with all necessary regimes for the normal functioning of the flower.

Timely resuscitation actions will help restore the turgor of phalaenopsis leaves. They include providing the plant with favorable conditions. Changing its location in the room. Be sure to isolate the orchid from drafts and avoid hypothermia. Replacing the substrate often helps.

Photo gallery: the most common diseases

Long term exposure low temperature, increased air humidity lead to black rot Root rot can completely destroy the plant Fusarium rot - dangerous enemy phalaenopsis The causes of brown rot can be the lack of sufficient fresh air circulation, high humidity in the room Gray rot can cause the death of phalaenopsis This is how anthracnose behaves The leaf is affected by powdery mildew The plant is overcome by viruses

Pests of phalaenopsis orchids and their control

The first measure to save you from unwanted guests living in the substrate is to soak the newly purchased plant in water. All uninvited guests will start to get out. If they are not there, then it will be enough to dry the orchid.

Dropped buds, sticky spots - look for scale insects

As a preventative measure, wash the leaves every 4-5 days.

The use of the Fitoverm insecticide for orchids provides the following proportions: 2 ml of the drug per 50 ml of water. You need to spray the solution from a spray bottle onto the entire plant. It should be clarified that Fitoverm affects only adult scale insects that are able to feed on their own. Therefore, treatment is always repeated after 5–7 days. Fitoverm cannot be used in combination with other insecticides.

Fitoverm is low-toxic for people.

How to save from mealybug

White pest on yellowing leaves

The whitefly is dangerous due to its larvae. They suck nutrients from orchid leaves. In this case, the plant itself turns yellow, loses its shape and may die. Identifying whiteflies is not difficult. These are insects with a distinct white similar to ordinary house flies. They hide on the back side of the leaf.

The fight against whitefly involves washing the leaves with a solution of laundry soap (solution proportion: 1 to 6), spraying the flower and substrate with Actellik. Rinse the leaves with clean water every 4-5 days.

For orchids, 2 ml of Actellik is diluted in 100 ml of water, followed by bringing the volume of the solution to 1 liter using clean water. It will be usable within 24 hours. You need to spray the solution from a sprayer over the entire area of ​​the plant. Repeat the procedure after 7–10 days. Do not spray insecticide indoors and be sure to use protective equipment.

Good prevention in pest control is careful monitoring of plants, timely replacement and careful selection of substrate.

Root mite - the cause of root damage

Root mite affects the root system of the plant. High humidity promotes its rapid reproduction. The tick lives in untreated substrate.

Control measures include removing the affected areas, disinfecting them with coal dust, replacing the substrate and disinfecting the pot. The roots themselves are also disinfected, for which a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate is used.

Prevention will include careful selection of the substrate, its timely replacement and avoidance of waterlogging.

Whitefly larvae suck nutrients from orchid leaves Root mite seriously damages the root system of the plant Scale insects lead the orchid to rapid depletion and death A phalaenopsis leaf has been occupied by a colony mealybugs When thrips appear on phalaenopsis, you will have to remove flowers and buds, spray the plant and water the soil with a systemic insecticide. Aphids, capable of multiplying in incredible quantities, can suck all the juices out of the orchid

Disinfection of pots and substrate

To disinfect the pot, it can be treated with boiling water or sterilized under a stream of water steam. But such methods can deform containers made of low-quality plastic. The best way- soaking the pot in a solution of potassium permanganate for 15 minutes. When preparing the solution, focus on its color, which should be pale pink, in no case bright, and certainly not purple. Then dry the pot; it would be a good idea to wipe it with alcohol.

To disinfect the substrate, place it in a container with clean water and boil for 15 minutes, then dry on a clean towel.

Video: pests and diseases of orchids

Reanimate and restore

You can try to save even an almost dead orchid. Methods of returning to life depend on the condition of the plant and the cause of wilting. All resuscitation methods include replacing the substrate and disinfecting the pot.

Leaves wither and fall

For a plant with wilted leaves, it is enough to provide the necessary conditions for normal life: first of all, observe the correct modes of humidification, watering, lighting and ventilation.

If the orchid has lost its leaves, then in addition to the above, it is necessary to feed the plant. Suitable for this nitrogen fertilizers. But it is necessary to monitor the nitrogen concentration, since its excess can lead to even worse consequences.

Examples of popular fertilizers for orchids with a normal nitrogen concentration:

• Greenworld for orchids;
• Kemira Lux;
• Cameleon;
• Oasis;
• Bona-forte.

Method for resuscitating phalaenopsis that has lost its leaves:

1. First of all, you need to inspect the root system. If it is heavily affected by decay processes (more than 50%), then the plant is practically doomed. If most of the roots are elastic and clean in appearance, then they must be left, the rest must be removed and the cut areas treated with coal dust.
2. Treat the prepared root system with Fundazol solution. (Proportions and method of application are indicated above).
3. Disinfect the substrate and pot.
4. After this, place the root system in a pot with the treated substrate, and the pot itself in plastic bag. The package should be spacious, creating something like a greenhouse.
5. You need to tie the bag immediately after spraying the plant with water. The greenhouse must be ventilated frequently; clean air should be introduced into it once a day.

You need to keep the orchid in a greenhouse until new leaves appear. After their formation, the plant should restore its normal watering and spraying regime.

Do not let the roots completely rot

The necessary care can help even a plant that has lost most of its root system.

Actions to resuscitate the phalaenopsis root system:

1. First of all, the plant must be removed from the substrate and washed well in warm running water.
2. Then you should dry the orchid. It should lie on paper or a towel at room temperature for 2–3 hours.
3. Inspect the remaining young roots and assess their condition. Usually in Phalaenopsis they are light green in color. Their structure should be elastic. The roots are slippery and soft and must be removed.
4. Remove all dead and suspicious roots. Treat the cut areas with coal dust or special antiseptic preparations. Young root shoots that look healthy are placed for a day in a strengthening mixture, which is sold in flower shops in the form of ampoules, powders, and liquids. By the way, experienced flower growers It is recommended to carry out the strengthening procedure once a month, especially during the changing seasons. Orchids are watered by immersing them in an aqueous solution to which such mixtures have been added according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.
5. After this, the plant must be placed in a vessel with water. The leaves should not come into contact with the liquid. Change the water in the vessel once a day.
6. After the young roots grow to a length of 3–4 cm, transplant the orchid into prepared soil.

Often a flower has to be fixed in a new pot. This is necessary for better establishment of the root system.

- very beautiful flowers. Each one is unique and original. Proper care Taking care of the plant will allow you to observe gorgeous flowering and abundant greenery from year to year. But there are times when the bush begins to wither before our eyes. The reasons may be improper care or emerging illness.

Enjoy the blooms on your windowsill tropical flower many people want. But not everyone who has purchased a flowerpot with a shoot knows how to properly care for a capricious specimen.

It happens that, due to ignorance, a gardener diagnoses an orchid that is life-threatening. Immediate treatment begins, which can lead to the death of the pet. You should not use radical measures, but pay attention to the conditions in which the flower is kept.

There are several signs that indicate illness:

• wrinkled, withered leaves with dot prints - the pet is hot, there are negative changes in the roots. If the dots are very pronounced, this is the result of a lack of moisture. Damaged greens become yellow, dries up and disappears. Overheating occurs in winter due to the radiating heat of the battery, in summer - due to direct sunlight. Under conditions, moisture evaporates at a rapid pace, without remaining in the cells of the bush. When the roots suffer from the heat, the nutrient liquid is either not absorbed at all or in minimal quantities.
• In other cases, a wilting condition may occur due to excessive watering and stagnation of water in the pan.
• Yellowing of the leaf is a change of place of residence, causing stress, lack of vitamins (potassium, iron), root rotting, and natural aging of shoots.
• A crack in the center of the green fabric - the causes are accidental damage, abundant irrigation during cold ventilation, dry air and temperatures above 300.
• Spots of dark shades with a yellow edging are the result of prolonged exposure to the sun or close to a battery.
• Growths, swellings, bumps on the outside of the green shoot - due to swelling of the shoots as a result of heavy watering, mechanical damage.
• Spots, stripes on the leaves - burns after watering, appear as a result of irrigation in bright sun. The drops remained, the sun dried them out and accidentally burned through the delicate green coating.
• Changes in the upper young shoot, its rotting, occur when moisture gets into the center of the bush.

Orchid diseases: types and signs

Significant ailments are identified:

• Black rot - the problem is temperature conditions and pest infestation.
• Fusarion is characterized by yellowing green cover and the appearance of spots. The leaves feel soft, limp, curled, and have a pinkish coating.
• Brown rot - spots of a light earthy hue, watery consistency are present, intensified by darkening of the affected areas and grow over large areas. Frequent watering and a cool room give a start to accelerating the development of the disease.
• Root rot is expressed by the acquisition of a dark shade on the surface of young shoots. When palpated, the roots become soft and growing rot is visible.
• Gray rot - gray spots with prominent fluffy fibers appear. The leaves are affected, then the soil, and the inflorescences are the last to suffer. A distinctive feature is small brown blotches on the petals. The reason is frequent application of fertilizers with large amounts of nitrogen.
• Anthracnose. Small round spots appear with clear outlines of an earthy hue. They can grow from several closely located single ones and degenerate into one large black one. The new growth dries out the damaged area, leaving a dent on the body of the leaf. The reason is lack of fresh air.
• Leaf spot is a dangerous disease of infectious origin. The culprits are midday rays and excess fertilizer. Weeping islands form on the cavity of the process.
• - characterized by the appearance of a sticky white plaque. The affected areas dry out and the flower dies.
• Viral diseases – a rare event. Spots in the form of stripes and circles are observed. Marble stains are observed on the shoots.

Each of the presented ailments has its own symptoms. The only thing they have in common is the cause of the disease - an increase in temperature and humidity in the room.

It takes a little action to correct the consequences of improper care. If overheating is detected, the bush must be removed from the radiator (in winter) and moved indoors. At the same time, make sure that the bush has enough daylight.

Otherwise, it is recommended to turn on additional fluorescent lamps. If the plant begins to wither and the reason lies in waterlogging, drain excess liquid from the pan, dry it, and do not water for 2-3 weeks.

The flower itself will tell you when it should be provided with moisture - the roots will become faded and inconspicuous, and depleted.

With sufficient watering, the tone of the roots will take on a rich light green hue. In case of burns in summer period It is recommended not to water in the early hours so that inflammation does not form on the leathery tissue. In addition, shade at lunchtime.

Black rot:

• Treatment. Remove problem parts and spray with Bordeaux mixture. Clean off the affected soil and replant in a sterilized substrate. Spray nearby flowers with Bordeaux or a preparation containing copper.
• Who can get infected: Cattleya, Parthiopedilum

Fusarion:

• Treatment. 10-day treatment with Fundazol (0.2%), by immersing the entire pot in liquid - 3 times in 24 hours. Stop spraying - it contributes to the spread of illness, ventilate the room.
• Who can become infected: Phalaenopsis, Epidendra, Miltonia.

Brown rot:

• Treatment. Minor damage - cut off part of the shoot with the affected area and treat. A massively spread disease - it will not be possible to save, destroy, or irrigate copper sulfate 1 time per month.
• Who can get infected: Cymbidium, Cattleya, Parthiopedilou, .

Root rot:

• Treatment. Spray with a solution of Topsin or Fundazol (0.2%), 3 times every 2 weeks.
• Who can get infected: Parthiopedilum, Miltonia, Cymbidium.

Gray rot:

• Treatment. Cut off the damaged parts to the healthy zone, irrigate the entire bush. In case of relapses, the drug for control should be changed - the fungus develops an addiction to the drug that is used. Recommended – Immunocytophyte.
• Who can get infected: Cymbidium, Cattleya, Phalaenopsis

Anthracnose:

• Treatment. Remove the affected leaves entirely and treat the cut areas. For healing - copper-containing substances. Remove and . Air humidity – no more than 70%, frequent ventilation.
• Who can become infected: Miltonia, Phalaenopsis, Oncyrius, Parthiopedilum.

Leaf spot:

• Treatment. Remove all areas with symptoms. Do not water for a week, treat with chemicals.
• Who can get infected: Phalaenopsis

Powdery mildew:

• Treatment. Spray with a solution of colloidal sulfur, Skor, Topsin-M preparations.

Viral disease:

• Treatment. No treatment. Remove from healthy plants- destroy.
• Who can become infected: all types.

Thus, if you do not act, you can lose a valuable copy. At the first signs of illness, it is recommended to take up the weapons of struggle.

– love abundant sunlight. But in the daytime they prefer partial shade; the bright rays of the sun can burn the delicate skin of the green cover. It gets along well if you follow some rules for maintaining an exquisite specimen:

1. It doesn’t feel very comfortable on north-facing windows. Normal light mode is 12 hours. If it is not fulfilled, then you should either choose another place of residence or highlight it. Otherwise, the arrow will not be able to bloom and develop fully.
2. For any type of exotic beauty, +27 C is considered an acceptable temperature. Some species can easily tolerate an increase in temperature up to +32 C. In winter, the plant feels good at +18 C., The minimum threshold is +13 C. At this stage Some species begin to freeze; they urgently need to be moved to a warm room.
3. Watering is welcome, but not abundant. Each type should have its own approach. In one case, watering into a tray, the buds bloom almost all year round. This method does not work with another bush; it begins to wither away at a rapid pace. Then it makes sense to try irrigating with a shower under direct jets directly into the ground. This method moistens the entire soil. It is recommended to water so that there is no stagnation of water, since excessive liquid is detrimental to the roots. Constant moisture is necessary only during the period of bud formation and flowering. With a lack of moisture, the leaves wrinkle and the buds fall off. Water is required at room temperature. A soft, settled or boiled cooled liquid is best suited. In summer, if necessary, watering increases to a maximum of 2-3 times a week.
4. Does not need abundant amounts, they can have a detrimental effect on healthy growth. Feeding is useful only once every 4 weeks. Frequent supplementation tends to reduce immunity.

Thus, the orchid is a rather capricious lady, both in choosing a suitable place and in watering. To prevent the flower from dying, you should carefully monitor its condition.

More information can be found in the video: