Many owners of urban residential real estate today have a dacha. IN country house you can relax in the fresh air, away from the hustle and bustle of the metropolis. At the same time, you can grow fruits and vegetables on the plot. However, in order to make it comfortable and convenient, the garden must be equipped. One of the main tasks is creating paths. In the absence of normal paths, it is difficult to move around the area. It is especially uncomfortable after rain. Next, we’ll look at how to make paths in the country.

General information

Before you build paths in your dacha with your own hands, you need to plan them. Properly designed paths will harmoniously fit into the landscape of the garden and give it a finished look. The paths should not be too winding or wide. It is most convenient to do them where the inhabitants of the garden are already accustomed to walking. To arrange the site, you can, of course, invite landscape designer. With its help you can get the garden of your dreams. But many today prefer to do the work themselves. Moreover, creating paths at the dacha with your own hands is not such a difficult task.

Materials

What can you use to create paths in your dacha with your own hands? The choice of materials is quite wide. Paths can be built from brick, gravel, and pebbles. Grass covering and crushed bark are considered popular. There is a special tile for paths in the country. Many owners use a combination of materials. It's hard to say which is more popular. Much depends on the overall appearance of the garden. One of the most simple options dacha paths are considered to be made of concrete.

Planning

Before you make paths in your dacha, you need to draw a design. The straight path will undoubtedly be the shortest path to the goal. However, if the area is not very large, then with the help of paths you can visually increase the space by making them slightly winding. In this case, their intersections at right angles should be excluded. If the site is equipped rectangular beds and flower beds, you can change their shape, making the contours smoother. In this case, the winding paths will look organic. After planning, you need to decide on the material from which you will create the paths in your dacha with your own hands. As mentioned above, it is necessary to take into account the style of the entire garden.

Surface preparation

One of the most responsible and important moments in the process of creating paths in the garden is marking. After this, it is necessary to prepare the soil. When laying paths, it is necessary to follow the technology depending on the material that will be used. Otherwise, all the mistakes and shortcomings that are made at this stage will cause the subsequent destruction of the paths. Of particular importance is proper preparation grounds. To eliminate possible decorative defects, inconveniences and repairs of paths, you need to follow simple recommendations:

• Using string and wooden pegs, the future contours of the paths are outlined.
• Using a shovel, the turf is removed along the entire length and width of the path. This must be done as evenly as possible, following the intended outlines. If tiles are used for paths in the country, the depth of the trench should correspond to the thickness of the sand cushion on which the material will be laid. Moreover, it must be at least ten centimeters.
• The sand cushion must be well leveled and compacted. IN in the right places You can add sand during the process.
• The tiles are laid on the compacted cushion. To make the material sit in the sand, lightly tap the surface with a mallet.

Work should be carried out using a level.

A natural stone

This material is known to be distinguished by its durability and strength. In addition, it has a wonderful appearance. Many garden owners decide to make paths from natural stone. The only requirement for the material is the presence of a flat plane on at least one side. Only then will it be convenient and safe to move along the path. Taking into account the unevenness on the opposite side, the trench should be made deeper than described above. In this case, it should be at least 20 cm. Half of this depth is filled with crushed stone, watered and compacted. A ten-centimeter layer of sand is laid on top, compacted and leveled again. Next, place the stones with a flat surface facing up. After all the material has been laid, it is sprinkled with sand, thus filling the voids between the elements. Then the surface should be swept and watered. If the gaps between the stones are not filled enough, this procedure must be repeated after 2-3 days.

Cuttings of fruit plantations

During sanitary cleaning in the garden, it becomes necessary to cut down old trees. However, there is no need to rush to convert them to firewood. From the saw cuts you can create original paths that will decorate the site. Wooden dacha paths look very attractive and fit organically into almost any landscape. At the first stage, thick branches and trunk are cut into circles, the thickness of which should be at least 10 cm. Before you start laying, the tree must be processed. For this you can use drying oil. The composition should be brought to a boil and the cut should be coated on each side. After the drying oil has dried, it is recommended to re-process it.

Features of the construction of paths from saw cuts

When covering paths in your dacha with this material, you need to take into account some nuances. In particular, arranging paths in this way has its own characteristics at the preparation stage. After laying the sand cushion, a plastic film is laid on top. The purpose of this layer is to prevent contact between the tree and the ground. This will prevent the material from rotting. Wooden circles are already laid on top of the film. This can be done in a variety of ways, as your imagination dictates. During the installation process, the evenness of the surface is checked with a level. The gaps between the circles can be filled with sand, crushed stone, wood chips, and gravel. It should be said that this type of path is more suitable for dry climates.

Paving stones

For a personal plot, this material is considered optimal. Paving stones are durable and reliable. She is not afraid of temperature changes or humidity. In addition, the material can withstand quite heavy loads. The installation work is carried out in several stages. A sand cushion is required. It is necessary to make a trench 20-25 centimeters deep under the paving stones. Sand is poured into it and compacted to the level. If the thickness of the paving stones is more than 60 mm, it will protrude above the surface. To give the path a finished look, borders should be made along its edges. Laying paving stones can be carried out according to different scheme. It is important to monitor the tightness of the elements to each other during the process. Defective tiles should not be laid, as they will not only ruin appearance paths, but will also become unusable over time. Taking this into account, you should purchase paving stones with a small margin.

How to fill paths in a dacha

Paths made using mortar are considered practical and strong. One disadvantage of such paths is their unpresentable appearance - they do not look as elegant as those built from paving stones or stone. The strength of a mortar path may vary. Everything here will depend on the composition concrete mixture. The higher the cement content in the solution, the stronger it is, accordingly. The composition of durable concrete is as follows: 3 parts crushed stone, 2 parts sand (coarse-grained), 1 part cement. To make the path rise slightly above the surface, formwork is made from boards along the edges. The concrete path can be decorated. Pieces of glass and small stones are suitable for this. You can use tiles to make a mosaic out of it.

Classic version

Brick paths are often laid in dachas. As a rule, clinker is used. It is somewhat more expensive than usual, but is highly durable and durable. Combined paths using bricks of different shades look very attractive. The material can be laid on a mortar or sand cushion. In many cases, a border is installed around the edges. In this case, mortar must be used to lay bricks. Otherwise, the elements will move apart, and the path itself will quickly lose its appearance.

Gravel

Winding paths are often built in areas. The optimal material for them is small pebbles or gravel. Such paths are built quickly enough and do not require large financial costs. However, such paths also have a drawback - they cannot withstand heavy loads. As in previous options, the base should be prepared before laying the material. If gravel is simply poured onto the soil, then over time it will spread to the sides. In addition, weeds will begin to grow on the path. Curbs will save the path from losing its appearance. To prevent weed germination, the area where the path will pass must be treated with a herbicide. In addition, it is recommended to lay agrofibre or polyethylene film on the base. Only after this can pebbles or gravel be added. Maintaining these paths is quite easy. It is necessary to periodically remove weeds if they appear and add new gravel.

Economical option

Plastic paths to the dacha are made from lattice flooring. Its weight is much less than that of mortar paths. At the same time, in terms of cost, plastic flooring is considered one of the most economical. In some cases, a geogrid is used when arranging paths. This material is made by soldering polyethylene. As in previous options, it is necessary to make a base for the paths. Plastic is moisture resistant and durable.

A practical and modern version of a path in the country

Rubber materials are becoming increasingly popular today. They produce both seamless and solid elements. This coating is ideal for an area next to a swimming pool or on a playground. Rubber tracks are distinguished by their attractive appearance, practicality, softness and durability. The coating has a thickness of about 40 mm. The base can be crushed stone, soil or sand. It is worth noting that you do not need any equipment to lay the rubber material. The work can be done independently. The construction of a concrete screed is also not required. However, in any case, the base must first be leveled. This can be done using a dry mixture of 6 parts sand and 1 part cement. The seamless rubber coating can be given the required configuration using a hacksaw or jigsaw.

Combined options

Very often, when creating paths in the country, a combination is used various materials. Often, combined paths are built not only to give them originality, but also for technical reasons. So, for example, along the edges of paths paved with paving stones, gravel fills are arranged. They act as drainage. If you do not provide backfill, during rain the water that will flow from the path will wash away the lawn. A combination of certain materials allows you to visually expand or shorten the path. When arranging paths in this case, it is necessary to take into account the general style of the site - the paths must fit harmoniously into the landscape.

Preface

Required Tools and materials

Bitumen mastictimberNailsnail pullerPlaned boardDrillStonePencilExpanded clayPickBrickBrushCuvetteJigsawShovelMaster OKHammerknifeHammerSandRouletteSelf-tapping screwsSquareExtensionLevelCementScrewdriverElectric planer

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Contents

Paths in the garden are needed not only to get from one area of ​​the site to another without trampling the lawn. Recently, when laying garden paths, aesthetic goals have been pursued; fortunately, there are now more than enough materials for paving. Before you make a garden path with your own hands, you need to know how a garden path is constructed, what material can be used to make it, and how to lay it correctly.

The garden path is one of the most common decorative elements. Not only depends on its correct location general form garden, but also the convenience of using all its corners, because the path organizes and systematizes the space of the site on which the country house is located.

The art of paving in gardens and parks dates back to ancient times, when people began to emphasize the sophistication and splendor of palace buildings with park ensembles with many paths and paved areas. The compositions of the paths were made in the same style as the general architecture of the buildings, but taking into account the natural features and the territory itself.

Look at the photo:garden paths and today they remain a significant component of the landscape of any garden, being, in fact, its style-forming element.

How garden paths are arranged and their planning

When installing garden paths with your own hands, you need to start with a carefully thought-out plan - this is the key to success. When planning garden paths, you must adhere to the following rules:

• the configuration of paths and paths with bends and turns should generally correspond to the nature of the terrain of the site;
• the track itself has a bright decorative effect and depending on the shape, pattern and type of coating, it can advantageously emphasize the features of the relief or, conversely, smooth out its shortcomings;
• paths should unite other elements of the landscape (flower beds, ponds, etc.) and give the entire ensemble the appearance of a harmonious, complete composition;
• the path should offer a view of the most spectacular decorative corners of the garden;
• before making paths in the garden, remember that the path system should be closed and, if possible, not passing through the central lawn;
• Paths in small gardens are best placed around the perimeter, and in this case, divide the lawn with a diagonal line;
• When breaking paths, you should avoid forks that form sharp lawn corners;
• the width of the garden path, made by yourself, must correspond to its purpose and the size of the garden;
• pedestrian paths should be no narrower than 0.7 m.

Straight paths are found more often in public parks and gardens, when it is necessary to create a strictly defined perspective, although they are sometimes used in the local area - if a short path to any garden structure is needed: a well, a bathhouse, a gazebo. And curved paths in the garden, arranged with your own hands, can visually expand the boundaries of the garden plot. But at the same time, they are not entirely comfortable, as they make movement difficult. Straight paths cutting through the surrounding space are also not always The best decision, in the future they will complicate the organization of picturesque green areas. Therefore, in modern landscape design, when designing paths, a reasonable combination of strict geometric lines (straight lines, diagonals, circles) with picturesque curves is often used.

Paths and paths divide the garden plot into different zones and at the same time unite it into a single space. This is achieved not only correct location paths, but also using carefully selected materials for their paving.

How is a garden path constructed, and what can it be made of?

It is not enough to know how garden paths are constructed; you also need to have an idea about the materials for their construction. The entire variety of road surfaces can be divided into two main types. The main materials from which you can make a path in the garden can be hard (brick, paving stones, flagstone, a natural stone, concrete tiles, clinker) and soft (granite screenings, marble chips, gravel, pebbles, sand, herbal mixtures).

Currently, paving slabs are most widely used for constructing hard-surfaced garden paths. Depending on the design, the tiles may have different configurations, but in any case, the path laid out from it will look elegant and festive.

Clinker tiles are often used to lay garden paths with your own hands. Thanks to its high strength properties, it quickly took its rightful place in the building materials market.

To create paths in a stone garden, they often use concrete plates arbitrary configuration. But in any case, when choosing a material for covering paths, you should take into account the intensity of their use. Thus, for automobile driveways and parking areas, only hard surfaces are used, for example, painted concrete, which is quite inexpensive and easy to install. But garden paths, recreation areas and patios are most often paved with tiles or natural stone.

For pedestrian paths, both soft and hard surfaces are used, as well as various combinations thereof, but the surface of paving slabs laid on sand or dry cement mixture is the most reliable and durable.

A thin layer of geotextile or polyethylene film placed under the base of a walkway or patio area will significantly increase the load-bearing capacity of the structure. It will prevent shrinkage of the base, and also prevent the germination of weeds and the washing out of sand laid under paving slabs. Geotextile or film sheets should be laid out with an overlap of at least 15 cm.

Look at the photo: For paths in the garden where children play, soft coverings are used - fine gravel, sand, grass or special mixtures.

Today, the range of materials for coating is so large that it is sometimes difficult to make right choice. It is important that the coating meets the following mandatory conditions:

• all garden areas and paths should give the site a stylistic unity and be paved with the same type building material;
• in large areas, a combination of several is allowed various coatings, but no more than 2-3 types.
• the coating should not be slippery in wet weather.

Laying garden paths with your own hands: step-by-step diagram

Laying garden paths with your own hands is quite a responsible task, so it is better to proceed according to the following step-by-step scheme.

1. Using string and pegs driven into the ground, mark the outline of the future path on the ground.

2. Remove soil over the entire area of ​​the future structure to a depth of at least 150 mm.

3. Before making paths in the garden with your own hands, fill the resulting trench with a layer of crushed stone, gravel or pebbles. Level and compact the resulting stone “pillow”.

4. Proceed directly to covering the path. The simplest design is for a gravel path. In addition, it has a big advantage - even during heavy rainfall, water seeps freely through layers of gravel into the soil without forming puddles. In fact, the gravel path consists of a curb, which simultaneously plays the role of formwork, and a backfill - gravel. To create such a path, install a curb along its contour. For its manufacture may be suitable, concrete blocks, large stones, etc. Fill in gravel at the level of the curb desired color and shape, level and compact it.

5. If you want to use paving slabs, concrete stone or brick to cover the path, then they can be installed using the so-called flexible paving method - the covering material is laid without mortar directly on the sand “cushion”. In this case, a layer of sand at least 50 mm thick is poured over the stone “pillow” described in paragraph 3 and thoroughly compacted.

6. To level the coating when laying garden paths on a compacted surface, add sand. Lay the path covering material on the sand “cushion” in accordance with the pattern you have chosen.

7. Compact the coating material into the sand with an industrial vibrator. It can be rented. If there is none, carefully tap the coating elements with a wooden or rubber mallet so that they are pressed into the sand without breaking.

8. According to the technology for constructing garden paths, you need to scatter sand over their surface and rub it with a brush into the seams between the covering elements.

9. If rigid fixation of the path covering material is required, a layer of concrete or concrete should be poured on top of the stone “cushion”. Before this, it will be necessary to construct the appropriate formwork.

10. Making rectilinear formwork is not difficult, but making curved formwork will require some tinkering. It can be constructed from wooden board 20-25 mm thick. Make cuts along its entire width (to the middle of the thickness) at a distance of 80-100 mm from each other, so that the boards are easier to bend to give the formwork the required shape. Drive pegs into the ground and nail boards to them, bending them smoothly. The boards can be replaced with strips of fibreboard (fibreboard) or sheet metal.

Sometimes, before making a garden path, you need to take care of special tools. In order to obtain elements of the track covering material of the desired configuration and size, it is cut using an angle grinder (grinder) or chopped off by hitting a chisel with a sledgehammer.

11. Pour concrete or mortar between the formwork walls, level and compact it. Cover the surface until it is completely dry with plastic wrap (5-10 days). After this, the formwork can be removed.

12. Lay the track covering material on a thin layer of cement-sand mortar. Under covering elements large area it is applied with a trowel to the base in several places - in the corners and in the center.

13. Having laid all the elements of the path covering, fill the seams with a dry mixture of cement and sand in a ratio of 1:3. After this, pour water on the path from a watering can so that the mixture hardens faster and firmly fixes the elements of the coating material.

14. If you have large voids between the coating elements, fill them with liquid cement-sand mortar. It will be more convenient to do this using a trowel. After the solution hardens, it will reliably hold the coating elements.

15. Alternatively, the entire path can be concreted. In this case, on top of the stone “pillow”, you need to pour a layer of concrete of the required thickness, but not less than 50 mm. A curb can act as formwork. It should be borne in mind that temperature fluctuations cause concrete to contract and expand, and this can lead to cracking of the path surface. Therefore, before pouring concrete, divide the path into sections approximately 1000 mm long and insert 10-12 mm thick wooden planks across these areas. They must be at an angle of 90° to the formwork, even if it has a curved shape.

The track covering material can be of several types. For example, paving with large slabs can be combined with the use of small elements - stones, bricks or concrete blocks.

This option will give you greater freedom in choosing the paving pattern and will give the path a more original look.

Look at the photo: DIY garden paths can decorate any area!

It is not properly decorated. The appearance of the entire territory, as well as the organization of business affairs, will depend on how well they are made and how well they are located. You can make a path in your dacha with your own hands from various materials. This article will discuss different options for making such tracks. We hope the information contained in it will help you master one of the technologies and implement it on your site.

Before you start arranging the paths, you should draw a plan of the site and put all the buildings on it. Then it is necessary to depict the directions of the paths, taking into account the plantings and buildings that are located on the territory of the dacha.

When designing trails, it is important to consider the amount of rainfall in your area. Sometimes, in order to avoid stagnation of water in the territory of the dacha, it is necessary to equip a drainage system. This is worth taking into account, since excess water on paths made of wood, concrete and brick will render them unusable in a fairly short period of time.

In order for the paths in the garden to serve you as long as possible, it is important that there are no large trees near them. Therefore, so that the result of the work is presented to you more clearly at the planning stage, draw up a detailed plan diagram country landscape. This will help you decide not only on the directions of the paths/paths, but also on the building material for their arrangement.

Almost everything country paths laid using the same technology. All work can be divided into several stages:

• Site marking. It is performed using pegs and cord. Garden paths will be laid along these lines.
• Then the turf is removed along the entire length and width of the marked contours of the paths. The soil should be removed to the thickness of a sand cushion, which will serve as the basis for subsequent paving. In this case, the minimum thickness of the sand cushion, and, therefore, the depth of turf removal, should be 10 cm.
• Sand is poured into the trench, and then thoroughly compacted and leveled.
• Then the paths are paved. In this case, it is important that you get a flat plane. This parameter should be monitored using a building level.

The bulk type of path is the simplest and cheapest. Fine chips of building stone/brick can be used as backfill. Before backfilling the path, you need to remove a small layer of turf along the width and length of the future path. Then the bottom needs to be compacted and a pebble stone should be poured into it, which in this case serves as a pillow.

Then you should fill in small crumbs of building stone/brick. But if you want your path to have more attractive appearance, then fill it with white or colored crushed stone. Lay borders along the contour of the path, for example, from larger stones.

Bulk paths help maintain stability in icy conditions and also dry quickly after rain. However, many fractions of the material with which the path was filled will quickly appear in the garden. In this regard, bulk paths are inferior to their concrete counterparts.

If you don’t want to part with your short-cropped lawn and don’t imagine it possible to cross this green carpet with paths and paths, then we suggest you familiarize yourself with one tricky option. Before you make this wonderful path, you should purchase cement mortar and stock up on burdock leaves.

Mix M500 cement mortar in a small container according to the manufacturer's instructions. To prevent the finished elements of the path from crumbling soon, add special plasticizers to the solution, as for paving slabs. Place the thick mass on a burdock leaf, which in this case will serve as a mold for pouring. Once the solution has set, you can remove the sheet.

Now you need to prepare a place for laying such an original decorative tiles. Carefully remove the layer of turf so that a small depression is formed for laying one tile. The remaining tiles are laid in a similar manner. This path is airy, light and harmonious along with the lawn. The attractive decorative leaf tiles make it comfortable and safe to walk on even in the rain.

Brick is a universal material. If you have a sufficient amount of paving bricks on your site, then you can make a reliable path in a short time. Construction works in this case can be divided into 4 main stages:

1. Defining boundaries, marking paths, extracting soil.
2. Preparing a sand and gravel bed.
3. Laying paving bricks.
4. Filling voids with sand.

The width of the trench for the path depends on the size of the brick and the pattern laid out of it. In this case, the minimum width of the path will be 0.9 m. Determine the boundaries of the path and mark them with pegs with a cord. Remove the sod and dig a shallow trench. To ensure that the border has additional support in the next 2 years, reinforce the edges of the trench with boards. After two years, you can take them away and fill the grooves with pebbles or gravel chips.

Prepare the base for laying the brick. Fill the bottom with coarse sand, distribute it along the length of the path and compact it. Then add gravel and follow the same steps. Then comes another layer of sand, which also needs to be distributed along the length of the path and compacted.

Now you can start laying bricks. Laying should begin along the boards. In this case, the bricks should be slightly sunk in the sand, as shown in the photo. Adjust the position of the brick with a wooden hammer. In this case, the bricks laid on the end will serve as a border. Lay the bricks according to the intended pattern, lightly hammering them into the sand. Check the flatness of the path with a level.

The gaps between the bricks must be filled with sand. To do this, carefully pour sand onto the country paths until it is equal to the level of the bricks. Then water the path and fill the bricks with sand again. Over the next few days you will be able to correct the position of the bricks.

Natural stone is one of the noble, expensive materials. Garden paths covered with it indicate the financial position and status of the owners of the dachas. To create a feeling of unity with nature, lay out stones different sizes and slab shapes. To do this, you will need a pick for leveling and trimming stones and a grinder/grinder.

The construction of a stone path can be divided into several stages:

• Swipe preparatory work, namely, determine the size of the path, remove the layer of turf, make a sand cushion (fill the bottom with sand and compact it).
• Fit, trim and sand the stone.
• Place the stone on top of the sand cover, but do not secure it. The free cavities between the stone tiles should be approximately the same - 15–25 mm.
• Excess sand should be removed from under unevenly laid stone tiles, and then they should be tapped every 60–70 cm with a rubber mallet.

In some cases, the stone is laid on a cement-sand mixture. It hardens in a short time, which only increases the strength of the path, which will serve you much longer. The voids between the stones are filled with soil or sand.

In the garden, paths made of paving slabs with a thickness above 60 mm look very good. This material meets the practical and aesthetic requirements of gardeners. Natural background The dacha is best supported by a path made of blue, red and yellow-sand tiles.

Materials and tools

Materials you should purchase:

1. Edged boards/cuts/garden parquet made from wood that is maximally resistant to precipitation and temperature changes.
2. Curbs made of wood, metal or concrete.
3. Materials for filling the cushion and the spaces between the elements of the path - sand, pebbles, gravel.
4. Roll and coating waterproofing.

Tools you will need:

• Roulette.
• Hammer, mallet.
• Chainsaw.
• Hacksaw.
• Shovel.
• Electric planer.

First of all, as in previous cases, you need to mark the paths and remove the layer of turf. The depth of the trench for laying the path should not exceed 40 cm, but it all depends on the material you choose for its installation.

The bottom must be covered with rolled waterproofing. This will prevent the growth of weeds and grass and the penetration of moisture from the ground into the elements of the path. Place a layer of sand/gravel on top of the waterproofing, which will act as a drainage system and a base for installation.

The next step is to install the curbs. If the base of the structure has sides, they should be laid along the edge of the trench. After this, you can lay the finishing material - boards/timbers/cuts or garden parquet. Before this, however, the lumber should be cut to the required length, and also processed, namely, planed the surface with an electric planer.

Then the workpieces must be covered with drying oil, treated with an antiseptic specifically designed for wood, as well as bitumen or coating waterproofing.

You can lay out lumber with or without intervals. The distance between the lumber can be within 5–8 cm. Then the path needs to be leveled with a mallet. In this case, it is better not to use a hammer. The rubber base of the mallet eliminates the possibility of damage to the lumber in the form of cracks or dents.

The gaps between the wooden elements of the path must be filled with gravel, pebbles, sand or other loose elements.

Technology for laying paths from saw cuts

The saw-cut paths look quite original. However, before you decide to lay such a path, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with some of its advantages and disadvantages.

Among the advantages of saw-cut paths, the following deserve attention:

1. Ease of arrangement.
2. Cheapness of the starting material.
3. Possibility of self-installation.
4. They have a natural attractive appearance.
5. Environmentally friendly material is used.
6. It is possible to carry out path repairs if necessary.
7. Puddles do not accumulate on them.
8. The ability to create a unique design, because all cuts are different.

Among the disadvantages, it is worth paying attention to the following:

• Susceptibility to rotting.
• Any wood reacts to temperature changes, even those that are highly durable.
• Maintenance is necessary if you want saw-cut paths to always be attractive.
• The saw cuts become slippery after rain falls. However, this drawback can be mitigated if the path is treated with a special compound.

To work you will need:

1. Tree cuts.
2. Sand, gravel, pebbles and water.
3. Mallet.
4. Shovel, brushes and buckets.
5. Geotextile or roll waterproofing.
6. Level.
7. Hand chainsaw.

In order for the cuts to be ready at the time of laying, they need to be prepared in advance. When choosing wood, it is important to consider the expected service life of the finished path and the loads that will be placed on it.

If you want your paths/paths to last you as long as possible, then give preference to hard wood. These include oak and pine. But the most durable wood is considered to be larch, which can last you more than 25 years.

When it comes to choosing wood, a lot depends on the budget you have. Often, the materials that are available on the site are used as cuts for arranging paths.

Saw the log into sections 15–20 cm high. The height of all pieces should be the same. If you make cuts less than 10 cm high, then there is a very high probability that the material will not be fixed in the ground and will shift when pressed.

The service life of the material will increase if you clean it from the bark, which peels off first. It is also not recommended to use cracked saw cuts, as the cracks will increase under loads and soon the path will simply become unsuitable for use.

Treat the cuts with preheated drying oil. Due to the temperature of the drying oil at which it must be applied when performing this work, there is a high risk of injury. You can replace drying oil with antiseptic agents that provide protection from moisture and bioprotection. The saw cuts should be kept in this solution for 2 to 48 hours.

Treat the bottom of the cut with bitumen. If you want to age the wood, then treat it with a solution copper sulfate. The material should then be dried.

Marking and preparing the base is carried out in the same way as when arranging wooden paths. The only thing is that the depth of the trench should be determined based on the height of the cuts + 5–10 cm for laying the crushed stone-sand cushion.

Curbs should be installed before the installation of saw cuts begins. Stones, bricks, long logs, bars or sheet iron can serve as borders.

Now you need to fill in the second layer of sand. To compact the sand, you need to pour water on it and then compact it.

The order in which the cuts are installed is not of fundamental importance. The pattern can be formed depending on the size of the cut and the preferences of the owner. Alternatively, you can lay the saw cuts so that there is minimal space between them or, conversely, leave space between them, which will then be filled with bulk material.

The only thing that is important to observe is to compact the cuts, leveling them.

You can fill the saw cuts with sand. Another backfill option is soil with seeds of ground cover plants. In addition, after laying the path, you can paint the cuts in bright colors or leave them as is. You can also open them with transparent weather-resistant varnish.

Wood is quite delicate and in order for it to serve as long as possible it needs regular maintenance. To do this, clean the path once a year with a metal scraper. Then it needs to be treated with an antiseptic and covered with drying oil or paint.

If necessary, replace saw cuts that have become unusable, having previously treated the new elements of the path with antiseptics and bitumen on the underside. Do not polish the ends of the logs, otherwise the path will be very slippery after rain.

Video

In the provided video material, you can visually familiarize yourself with the technique of making garden paths:

Scheme

The diagrams show the intricacies of making a garden path:

Paths on personal plot- This is not only about protecting shoes from dirt and peat dust. Hard surface creates an interesting game of balance between man-made and natural components of landscape design. Making garden paths at your dacha with your own hands is more than possible. Find out how to plan them correctly, compare the advantages of paving materials, get acquainted with the technology of laying paving slabs on a sand cushion, evaluate options for decorating the paved surface with borders and flowers.

Layout of paths in the summer cottage and in the garden

To break down a functional movement system in your garden, take a site plan or draw it to scale and mark two groups of objects on it:

• goals are significant places that need to be easily approached: gate, garage, outbuildings, gazebo, alpine slide, recreation area, greenhouse, beds open ground;
• obstacles - objects that will have to go around: trees, hills, low relief.

Fantasy terracotta with small bushes and foliage patterns

Next, on the plan, observing the scale, paths are outlined, trying to make do with a minimum number of them, since each takes up the usable area of ​​​​the garden and the entire plot. It is recommended to work on several projects so that you can compare drawings and design options.

Small mosaics among uneven slabs will not let your eyes get tired

What nuances to consider when planning paths?

The ergonomics, durability and impeccable appearance of these garden objects are influenced by a number of factors:

1. Trace. When planning a route, first mark the main paths: from the gate to the porch, from the house to the garage, outbuilding, vegetable garden, orchard. They are made as straight as possible, since they are designed for fast walking by a working person. The remaining passages - side ones - branch off from the main ones and run around the entire area. They serve for recreation and therefore can be of any length and degree of tortuosity.
2. Width. Nobody wears crinolines anymore, so the need for the Versailles avenues has disappeared, but the size of the paths should still allow people walking towards them to separate or walk hand in hand. Behind minimum width take 80 cm. The main garden path is made even more relaxed, 120-150 cm, so that a wheelbarrow or bulky furniture can be transported along it.
3. Cross slope. Accumulating rain and melt water erodes some types of coatings and creates dirt. The smaller the gaps between the paving elements, the more important it is for the water to flow to the sides, for which the middle of the covering should rise slightly above the edges.

Registration of height difference

Any type of garden path can be hopelessly damaged by the roots of nearby trees. It is advisable that there be at least 2 m of space between the tree trunks and the edge of the canvas.

Visual effects of paving

Any line in the landscape creates certain visual sensations. You can achieve interesting visual effects using design methods:

1. Curvature. Paths as straight as arrows are characteristic of regular parks; their task is to organize order, symmetry, discipline and even pomp. Winding ones, on the contrary, turn the garden into a fairy-tale world and promise surprises around every turn.
2. Color. The coincidence of the covering material with the finishing of the base of the house creates stylistic unity on the site, but, in order to avoid boring monotony, it is worth choosing for the building and paths different shades one color scheme.
3. Paving drawing. The longitudinal laying of elongated tiles creates the illusion of movement, calls forward and visually lengthens the garden path. Transverse paving shortens and expands it, forces you to slow down and look around.

Square slabs unfolded in diamond shapes will create the impression of a diamond bracelet

Interesting effects drawing attention to the pattern underfoot can be achieved by combining materials and adding unexpected elements: shells, mosaics, leaf prints, low flowering herbs.

What can paths be made from?

The material for garden paths is subject to a set of requirements that are common for landscape design elements:

• accessibility and adequate cost;
• elegant appearance and durability;
• compatibility with general style buildings and garden;
• reliable performance;
• safety for children and pets;
• possibilities of combination during work and repair in the future;
• no insurmountable difficulties during installation.

You can make fantastic patterns from ordinary pebbles

To determine how to lay out paths inexpensively and beautifully, let’s consider the most different ways their paving.

Paths in the countryside made of paving slabs

The popularity of paving slabs is explained by their durability and resistance to seasonal temperature changes in central Russia and to the north. Tiles are relatively easy to install and replace. Manufacturers offer samples different shapes for paving paths: brick, square, wave, diamond, hexagon, coil - which avoids monotony.

Paving slabs do not wear out, do not soften under the scorching sun, do not crack due to frost, and do not emit volatile substances. To clean the garden from fallen leaves and wind-blown soil, you can simply walk over it with a broom.

The more varied the shape of the tile, the more interesting the result

Eco-friendly wooden walkways

If the climate is dry, you can lay out a cheap path in your dacha with your own hands from wood. Suitable for this purpose:

• transverse cuts of trees, half dug into the ground;
• boards, timber and pallets;
• bamboo stems;
• garden parquet.

The boards seem to be laid directly on the grass

The disadvantage of such materials is their low resistance to moisture, so any wood is treated with antiseptics and bitumen mastic, and drainage is carefully prepared before installation. It is better to raise the wooden flooring above the ground, laying it on metal supports, then it will be blown from below and will not begin to rot. For additional protection, the flooring is painted or varnished.

Wood can roughly include crushed bark and coconut shells. They look original, but require a mandatory border and periodic bedding. Another disadvantage of soft paths is that in wet weather, pieces of bark stick to shoes and spread throughout the area.

Stone in the landscape - noble and natural

Natural stone paths

The most durable, beautiful, aesthetic, but also the most expensive material for paving in the garden is natural and artificial stone. It looks elegant, allows you to imitate the streets of ancient cities and mountain paths, and goes well with rock gardens, fountains, waterfalls, lamps, flower beds and stone plinths buildings

Chipped natural stone, for example, flagstone, requires a special shape and shade of each piece, so the paving turns out to be interesting and not tiring for the eye. The result of laying multi-colored pebbles or shell rock slabs with your own hands is always a unique work of art.

Herringbone brick reminiscent of antique parquet

Brick paths for the practical

This is an excellent budget solution if, after building a cottage or garage, there is a lot of unused brick left. It can be used whole or broken into crumbs, which will crunch pleasantly when walking. The combination of different brands allows you to create a geometric mosaic, and use the darkest or lightest bricks as edging.

The disadvantage of the usual sand-lime brick is its low frost resistance. Repeated freezing and thawing over several years renders it unusable. In regions with cold, snowy winters, it is better to use a type of paving clinker brick in the garden. A special firing technology protects it from changes in temperature and humidity.

Using stencils on concrete creates the illusion of stone

Concrete paths in different versions

Concrete is one of the cheapest materials for garden decoration, but the long gray ribbons into which the hardening solution turns look dull and unpresentable. Concrete requires a imaginative approach:

• using special forms to create artificial stone simulating different breeds;
• inclusions of pebbles, shells, broken tiles, colored glass;
• mixing pigments;
• gravel inserts and grass islands.

Leaf prints on concrete

Beautiful concrete alleys are obtained if large leaves are pressed into a semi-liquid solution, additionally scratching the veins with a sharp knitting needle.

Gravel paths

As an alternative to stone, gravel is quite cheap, especially if there is a quarry or enterprise selling similar material nearby. If desired, it can be removed and replaced with a different combination of colors and fractions. Gravel is ideal as a path to a rockery with flowers or a classic Japanese garden stones, but requires periodic topping.

Looks great against the gravel garden benches, lanterns and pergolas. It emphasizes the carved structure of ferns, the freshness of roses and the heaviness of metal. However, as road surface the gravel is somewhat unstable: individual pebbles slide underfoot, and sharp edges prick through thin summer shoes.

A chain of concrete circles in a river of gravel

Making paths with your own hands

To properly make paths in your dacha with your own hands and at the same time get a really beautiful economical option, you need to calculate the total coverage area, multiply by the cost of 1 sq. m. m of different materials and compare the numbers with each other. For some, the concrete left over from the construction site will be cheaper, while others will get natural stone “from a neighbor’s shoulder” for a third of the price. Below is step-by-step instruction, which can be used for laying most materials, since the most important stage– soil preparation is almost the same in all cases.

The pegs are driven deeper to prevent them from tilting

Step one - marking the area

For marking, you will need as many sharp pegs as possible, a roll of twine and a tape measure. On straight sections, pegs are placed less often - one per 8-10 m, on turns - more often. Sharp bends in the garden are marked with pegs every 15-20 cm. The width of the path is controlled with a tape measure.

At this stage, the layout of the site can be adjusted and the functionality of the “transport network” being built can be checked. To do this, you need to walk throughout the entire garden area inside a stretched rope and understand how convenient the path to each significant object is and how impressively the flower beds and other decorations on the site are visible.

When working on a hard surface, be sure to protect your knees

Step two - preparing the bed

In regions with negative winter temperatures, soils swell. In the fall, the clay is saturated with water, in the winter ice forms in the garden, pushing the soil particles apart, in the spring the melt water goes down, as a result, the coating elements lie unevenly. Classic way To prevent such a problem - create a gravel-sand cushion that serves as drainage:

1. Inside the twine circuit, remove the soil to a depth of 20-25 cm, at the same time removing stones, roots and debris.
2. The bottom of the resulting excavations is carefully compacted, especially on soft soils, such as black soil. Given the volume of work, a gasoline vibrating rammer is used, while the toes are protected with shoes with steel toes, and the ears are protected with thick headphones.
3. If such a tool is not available, a manual tamper is made. It is a heavy log of large diameter, to which handles are attached at the ends.
4. The compacted bottom of the excavations is covered with geotextile to protect against the germination of weeds whose seeds remain below.

To organize a slope, the height of the pegs is checked with a level

At this stage, it is necessary to decide on the slope of the paths, which will ensure the rolling of rainwater: will it be longitudinal (at least 3-5 mm for every 10 linear meters of the canvas) or transverse. If the path in the garden is crossed by communications (electrical cables, drainage system pipes) according to plan, they are installed now.

Step three - installing the border

Edging will make it more difficult to mow the grass later on, but it is often used because it achieves several goals:

• give the canvas a neat, finished look and preserve it for decades;
• highlight the track visually;
• do not allow soil to fall off from nearby flower beds.

Installing a curb on concrete

As an edging, you can use paving elements of a contrasting color, which are laid using the same technology as the rest. Roofing tiles, even stumps, willow wickers are simply dug into the ground so that they can be replaced.

The most difficult base is created for the curb stone. They dig grooves under it below the bottom level and fill them with 5 cm of sand. Then a small layer of concrete is poured and the stone is installed, checking the quality of the work with a level.

Installation of a path for paving slabs

Step four - filling the gravel-sand cushion

Operating procedure:

1. Half the depth of the excavation is covered with gravel or crushed stone, the size of the fraction does not matter.
2. The gravel is covered with slightly moistened sand and compacted thoroughly.
3. The sand is watered until puddles form and left for 3-4 hours in sunny weather and for a day in cloudy weather.
4. When the water is completely absorbed, the sand is leveled immediately before paving. To do this, prepare a board whose length exceeds the width of the track. The board will move along “beacons”, which can be a previously installed curb stone.
5. If the level of the canvas is supposed to be lower than the edges of the curb, cutouts are made along the edges of the board.
6. If there is no curb, two pipes are placed in its place, one on each side, a board is placed on them edgewise and led along the path until the surface of the sand is completely leveled.

Alignment sets the quality of the future track

Step five - paving over the cushion

The construction of garden paths is directly related to the future load on them. For the passage of wheelbarrows and other equipment, as well as for intensive walks of a large number of people, it is recommended to pave with a sand-cement mixture (1:6). It is poured over the leveled pillow and re-leveled with a board along the “beacons”. In other cases, the coating elements are simply placed on the sand.

If a complex ornament is conceived, for example, made of pebbles, its full repeat is first laid out nearby on the ground to get an idea of ​​how it will look when finished. The same applies to alternating multi-colored bricks or tiles, stripes, various inserts and combinations of materials.

The first row of elements is laid along the twine stretched across the pillow and carefully compacted with a mallet. The presence and width of seams between elements depend on the selected material and pattern. Brick and tile are usually fitted closely. In any case, rounded wood cuts will leave significant gaps.

Using a hand tamper

When laying any material, do not forget about the transverse slope: the center of the canvas should be somewhat convex.

At the end of installation, the self-made garden path is sprinkled with a sand-cement mixture and the seams are swept with a brush. To harden the mixture, it is moistened with light sprinkling.

Design of paths in different styles

Paths at the dacha are not just a way to get to the greenhouse without getting dirty in the mud, they are a full-fledged element of the design of the site, capable of highlighting the beauty of the landscape and enhancing the impact on the viewer’s senses. Therefore, the general style of the garden determines how, for example, to decorate the path with flowers, lawn grass, and lighting.

Dacha in rustic style landscaped with paths made of uneven blocks of limestone or shell rock, between which ground covers are planted. Astilbe, rudbeckia, lavender, small lilies and sedge are planted on both sides. Reed grass, lobelias or bright blue delphinium are placed in the background. Garden paths made of rare stones, framed by clumps of cereals, are often complemented by wooden benches and compact rose bushes.