One of the important attributes of a bathhouse is a boiler. Modern boilers operate on different fuel sources, which determines not only the quality of work, but also the cost of both the device itself and its maintenance. You can make such a device, or at least install it yourself, and thereby save a lot of money. In this article we will talk about how to make it from a pipe (metal), consider installation options, and also provide diagrams, drawings, photos and video instructions.

Types of boilers

Depending on the type of fuel used, all known boiler designs ( metal furnaces) for baths are currently divided into the following classes:

• gas units;
• electrical;
• working for solid fuel;
• pyrolysis;
• operating on liquid (diesel) fuel.

Manufacturing gas boiler, which is the most economical option of all those listed, seems possible only if gas is already supplied to your site.

The peculiarity of such devices is that during operation they emit almost no odor or burning and do not require the preparation of fuel reserves for the whole year.

The indisputable advantage of the devices electric type is the absence of any harmful waste and the ability to do without ventilation systems. Such boilers also remove the worry about having long-term fuel reserves; But with such a choice, one should not forget about the constant increase in the cost of the electricity they consume.

Solid fuel boilers are capable of maintaining both the combustion process itself and the required heating temperature for a long time. But, unlike their gas and electric counterparts, they cannot operate continuously and require regular loading of new batches of fuel.

Pyrolysis and liquid fuel boilers are usually made according to complex technological schemes and can hardly be implemented in conventional living conditions. For self-made only the first three of the types we considered are suitable heating structures. We offer for your consideration the most common version of a solid fuel device today that runs on ordinary wood.

Design

To begin with, you should stock up on all the equipment and tools necessary to assemble such a boiler. The tools you will need are a welding machine and a grinder, and as the initial workpiece you can use a metal barrel with a volume of 200 liters (horizontal design). To equip the boiler vertical type you will have to select a piece of thick-walled pipe with a diameter of about 50 cm and a length of about one and a half meters. A device made from such material is capable of heating a room with an area of ​​up to 10 square meters.

Let's consider this option in more detail.

The entire pipe is divided into three parts, each of which represents a specific functional unit of the furnace, used for its intended purpose. The lowest part of the pipe space and the one located above it are used for the firebox and stone. They provide the required operating mode of the boiler and create conditions for its normal functioning. The part of the pipe blank that is located at the very top (above the heater and stoker) is used as a heated container with water (tank).

The lowest sections of the pipe (blower, firebox and heater) are equipped with partitions on which special grates are hung - grates, which are freely sold in specialized furnace casting stores. The heater compartment is filled with small oval-shaped stones, the structure of which allows you to “keep” heat for a long time.

In a vertical stove, a compartment serving as a container for hot water is installed directly above the heater. To do this, another partition is mounted directly above it, which is the bottom of this compartment.

This partition should have a special hole for the chimney pipe, shifted closer to the rear wall of the boiler. On top of this compartment there is a partition with a hole for the chimney, which covers only part of the tank. The remaining uncovered part of the partition serves as a hole for pouring water and is equipped with a special lid.

Installation

Installation of the boiler should begin with preparing the foundation; Moreover, the power of the latter will depend on whether you plan to cover it with bricks or not. You will only need such a covering if you are used to steaming in several “passes” and want the heat to stay in the steam room for as long as possible.

The foundation for the boiler is made of refractory bricks, which are laid on a previously prepared site in two rows and then filled with ready-made concrete mixture. The dimensions of the area for the foundation and its distance from the walls of the steam room also depend on whether you are going to make a brick lining.

For safe operation When a metal boiler is installed in a steam room, the walls in the area where it is placed must be covered with a layer of fire-resistant material (Izovera, for example). The places where the chimney pipe is laid through the wooden elements of the bath structure must be protected using a special fire-resistant material (asbestos).

Video

In the following video you will see an example of a sauna stove with a water heating boiler:

Photo

First, you should consider the question of whether heating the bathhouse is necessary in principle? If your bathhouse has only a steam room and a dressing room, then there is no point in heating it. You can undress in the dressing room; if it’s very cold, then in the steam room. For small baths it is impractical to build separate heating; money and time will be spent, and there will be little return.

The situation changes if the bathhouse is large, there is a separate shower and rest room. It is quite difficult, and sometimes impossible, to heat these rooms using a sauna stove. Taking a shower or relaxing after a steam bath in cold rooms is not much fun. For such bath options, it is advisable to provide separate heating for these rooms.

There is no point in installing an autonomous factory-made heating boiler; it is much more profitable to slightly re-equip the sauna stove and be able to heat other rooms at the same time as heating the steam room. This is not only much cheaper, but also saves firewood. Long time There is no need to heat additional rooms; the time needed to warm up the steam room is quite enough to create a comfortable temperature in the shower and rest room. Do you have a large bathhouse? This means that the issue of heating additional rooms needs to be resolved.

Important. If the bathhouse is used infrequently, then antifreeze must be added to the heating system. Some suggest using diesel fuel, it is cheaper. But we are categorically opposed to such a replacement. It’s better to pay a little more for antifreeze than to build later new bathhouse after the fire.

The best option for a heating boiler for a bathhouse is using solid fuel. In this article we will also look at a homemade electric boiler; it has quite a few advantages over solid fuel ones. The main element of a solid fuel boiler is the heat exchanger; it is the most difficult to manufacture and requires fairly solid welding skills.

Important. It must be remembered that it is very difficult to remove the heat exchanger from the boiler for repairs; in some cases, you will have to completely disassemble the structure, and this will require a large number of time. Conclusion - the reliability of the welds and the strength of the structure must be at the highest level; the heat exchanger welded before installation in the firebox must be tested under high pressure water. All welding seams should be cleaned of slag with a grinder and a thorough visual inspection. The slag may plug the weld gaps; the heat exchanger will not show any leaks during normal testing. And only after installing it in the furnace during heating will the slag fall off and the heat exchanger will leak. If you are not completely confident in the quality of the welds, then place them two at a time.

Types of heat exchangers

Heat exchanger is a device used to heat water. The more efficiently it works (the greater the efficiency), the better the heating stove heats, the higher the temperature in the rooms can be. The heat transfer coefficient depends on the material of manufacture and the total area.

It is best to make heat exchangers from copper, but this option has three significant drawbacks:

For heat exchangers in solid fuel boilers It is optimal to use materials made of carbon sheet steel of ordinary quality with a thickness of at least one millimeter.

An important factor in the efficiency of a boiler is the heat exchanger area. There are two options to solve the problem.

First. Increase the internal area of ​​the firebox and, due to this, the dimensions of the heat exchanger. The option is good, but difficult to implement. A large firebox is not always appropriate sauna stove, an increase in its dimensions causes significant difficulties during manufacturing, excessive consumption of materials, etc.

Second. Increase the heat exchanger area. Heat exchangers can take the form of containers with flat walls or be tubular. The second option significantly increases the effective heat exchange area, the water heats up faster, and the efficiency increases noticeably.

Heat exchanger - photo

Practical advice. This method can be used, but without fanaticism. Some are trying to reduce the distance between the tubes to a minimum and thereby increase their number. Indeed, at first the device works quite efficiently, but then the water heating temperature drops sharply. Why? As a result of soot sticking to the surface of the pipes. Of course, it will always stick to all surfaces of the heat exchangers; we will tell you how to reduce this negative effect a little below. Now let’s pay attention to one thing - it is impossible to clean the surface of the pipes if they are located too tightly. We recommend keeping the distance between pipes at least one centimeter.

Where to install heat exchangers

Most often, heat exchangers are installed in the upper part of the firebox.

1. In the upper part of the furnace, flue gases contain the maximum amount of soot. It is inevitably deposited on the bottom plane of the heat exchangers, the heat transfer efficiency is significantly reduced, and the bottom must be cleaned frequently to improve efficiency.
2. The very high temperature of the flame in this place has a negative effect on the metal.

It is much more productive to place the heat exchanger at the edges of the firebox, making them in the shape of the letter P. This will make it possible not only to reduce the amount of soot, but also to increase the total effective area.

Video - Do-it-yourself solid fuel boiler

Stages of manufacturing a tubular heat exchanger for a furnace

Select specific linear dimensions of the heat exchanger taking into account the parameters of the firebox. Flat heat exchangers are easy to manufacture; we will not dwell on them. Let's consider the option of manufacturing a tubular heat exchanger. For manufacturing, you can take thick-walled pipes with a diameter within the range. 1.5÷2.0″. There are several options for manufacturing such devices; for example, we chose the simplest of them.

Step 1. Preparing frame blanks in the shape of the letter P. Cut the pipes to size, there should be two pieces for the width, length and height of the firebox. Mark the locations for drilling holes; the distance between them should be equal to the outer diameter of the pipe plus at least one centimeter for the gap. Place the holes symmetrically along the entire length of the pipes, if necessary, slightly increase/decrease the distance between them.

Step 2. In the marked places, drill holes in the upper plane of the pipes; they should all be located strictly along the same line. The diameter of the holes must be equal to the nominal diameter. It is much easier to drill first with a small diameter drill, and then increase it to the desired size.

Step 3. Saw off the ends of the pipes at an angle of 45°; if the firebox has a different configuration, then take into account its parameters, the angle may change.

Step 4. Weld the cut ends together, you should get two heat exchanger blanks in the shape of the letter P. Plug one end, use it for this sheet iron the same thickness as the pipe walls. Weld end pieces with a diameter of 3/4″ to the second end. This diameter is used for most heating system pipes. The length of the end caps depends on the thickness of the stove walls. One limit switch will be for the cold water inlet, the second for the hot water outlet.

Step 5. Prepare pipe sections for the vertical elements of the heat exchanger. The quantity should be equal to the number of holes. Measure the length very carefully, the spread should not exceed 1÷1.5 mm. Work carefully with the grinder; it is better to firmly fix the pipes in a vice and cut according to one template.

Step 6. Grind the ends of the pipes under the saddles, the rounding should be equal to the radius external walls pipes of the upper and lower frame. This is a rather complex operation that requires patience and skill. If you have a special device, great, the work will be much simpler, the saddles will be very accurate, and welding work will be easier.

We strongly advise you to purchase it; such a device is quite cheap, and during production various works DIY will always come in handy. They can be used not only for preparing metal parts, they are also used during the creation of various wooden structures.

Trimming the saddle - photo

If there is no device, you will have to work hard manually. Draw the outline of a saddle on each end of the pipes with chalk. To do this, it is better to cut a circle out of thick paper along the diameter of the pipe and apply it alternately on two opposite sides of the end. Is the outline drawn? Take a grinder in your hands, place a thick metal disc on it and slowly and carefully grind out the saddle. Constantly check the correct contour of the pipe. By personal experience Let's say that it will take approximately 30 minutes to prepare the saddles of one vertical pipe on both sides.

At this point, the preparatory work for the manufacture of the tubular heat exchanger is completed, and welding can begin.

Heat exchanger welding

For the thickness of the pipes we have chosen, weld with a Ø 4 mm electrode; adjust the current so that the metal melts but does not boil.

Check for correct adjustments welding machine on an unnecessary segment, make a test seam, warm up the end of the electrode.

Step 1. Tack the pipes to the bottom half of the frame. Install them exactly in the middle of the drilled holes, constantly monitor the vertical position.

Important. Tack the vertical pipes with a seam approximately 0.5 cm long; the tack should be on one side only. As the metal cools, the pipe will move, align its position.

Step 2. After all the vertical pipes are tacked, place the second half of the heat exchanger frame on top and begin to tack the free saddles to it in the same order. Do not lay a long seam; each pipe will have to be aligned.

Step 3. All pipes on both sides of the frame are tacked, their position is corrected - you can lay a strong continuous seam along the entire perimeter of the saddles. Work very carefully, constantly clear the slag and check the quality of the weld. Once the heat exchanger is installed in the boiler, it is very difficult to eliminate leaks. If you do not have the opportunity to test the structure under pressure, no problem. Fill it with diesel fuel or antifreeze and leave it overnight. Over time, these liquids make it possible to detect even the smallest cracks in the weld.

The heat exchanger is welded and can be installed in the furnace firebox. Next, you need to connect the space heating system; we’ll tell you how this is done a little later.

How to make an electric boiler for a bath with your own hands

Rest rooms or showers in large baths can be used not only on Saturdays or Sundays; you can receive guests or wash in them on any day of the week. You either don’t want to heat a sauna stove for such cases, or it’s not possible. What to do? Make hotel heating for these premises using electric boiler. By the way, it can be connected to a remote control system and turned on when leaving the city using mobile phone or computer. During your stay on the way, the rooms will warm up to comfortable temperatures. The only condition is that the electrical networks and safety valves must maintain a power of at least 10 kW.

Why do we recommend making a boiler yourself rather than purchasing a ready-made one? Factory units are very expensive; they are equipped with a large amount of complex additional equipment that cannot be repaired. In addition, the large dimensions of industrial boilers significantly limit their installation options. We will consider the manufacture of a simplified boiler; if desired, it can always be equipped with electronic equipment for remote control.

There is a second option - the boilers can be increased in power. There is no fundamental difference between them. The design allows you to add heating elements without much effort. The number of heaters is limited only by the maximum possible load electrical networks. Power control allows you to regulate the temperature of the interior within a wider range.

The heating elements are installed each in a separate pipe and are connected in series to each other.

Design features of a homemade boiler

For production, a metal pipe Ø 159 mm, length 350 mm was used, plugs were welded on both sides.

The inlet and outlet of water is carried out by metal pipes Ø 3/4″, the bottom plug has a drain hole closed by a valve. The top cover has three couplings for installing electric heating elements; the diameter of the couplings is selected taking into account the thread sizes of the heating elements. Power of each heating element 3 kW. A safety valve is mounted on the top cover to relieve critical pressure.

The heating elements are top-mounted, although all industrial units have bottom-mounted heaters.

Why did we change their location?

1. Replacing failed heaters is much easier. IN industrial boilers you have to completely drain the coolant from the system, there are no losses. As we have already mentioned, you need to use antifreeze as a coolant to heat the bath; pouring it on the ground is an expensive pleasure.
2. It is possible to quickly replace a burnt-out element without completely shutting down the heating system.

The distance between the top cover and the place where the heaters are fixed should be kept to a minimum, this will prevent the heating elements from being exposed air cushion during heating. All electrical controls are located in the panel next to the boiler. Each heater requires its own 3 kW machine, a common power input through a disconnector.

The coolant inlet and outlet have separate ball valves.

Important. Before replacing heaters, the boiler must cool completely. Otherwise, the coolant will be under pressure and may cause burns when unscrewing the nuts.

The boiler with heating elements is attached to the wall with brackets and dowels. It is light in weight, approximately 5 kg when filled with coolant; no special precautions should be taken during fixation. The power of the heaters can be changed depending on the volume of the heated premises.

It is allowed to install special electrical equipment to monitor the temperature and pressure of the coolant. This makes it possible to set the required parameters and the heaters will be turned on/off independently.

After manufacturing and checking the boiler, you can begin work on connecting the heating batteries.

Electric heating boiler - photo

Heating system with boiler - photo

Video - DIY electric boiler

How to connect radiators

In a bathhouse, you need to heat a maximum of two rooms: a relaxation room and a shower room. We recommend using a single-pipe bypass system, it fully satisfies technical specifications, easy to install and effective to use, requires few materials and time.

The diagram shows a diagonal connection of radiators, but you can also connect them in the lower version: the input and output are located at the same level near the floor.

Each radiator has shut-off valves, which makes it possible to regulate its heating temperature. If one of the batteries is completely disconnected, then the coolant flows to the second through the bypass. Practice shows that one battery is enough for a shower room, but it is advisable to install two in a rest room. It’s cold in the shower – so put two radiators there.

Important. Be sure to use an expansion tank closed type, this will prevent evaporation of the coolant.

The volume of the expansion tank should be selected taking into account the volume of coolant. One hundred liters of coolant requires a three-liter tank. Using this data, you can choose best option for your specific case.

To make it easier to replace heating batteries, we recommend installing shut-off valves at the inlet and outlet. By closing two taps, you will completely disconnect the radiator from the system and can repair it; everything else will work as usual. Air is removed from the system using Mayevsky valves or ordinary drain valves.

To avoid unproductive losses of thermal energy, the boiler must be insulated. Wrap it in foil roll mineral wool, do not leave any gaps. The thickness of the wool should be at least 10 cm.

To calculate boiler power there is no need to use complex formulas. Practice shows that to heat one square meter For rooms in the southern regions, 100÷120 W is sufficient; in the northern regions, approximately 150÷200 W will be needed. Based on these data, select the power of the heating elements.

Circulation pumps are marked on the body indicating the diameter of the connecting thread, maximum lift height, power, permissible installation length of pipelines and heating radiator channels. Approach the choice of a specific brand of pump carefully, pay attention to all its indicators and technical characteristics. Buy pumps with a reserve, do not allow them to operate at the limit values. The power reserve of approximately 30% doubles the operating time of the equipment.

If you plan to install a heat exchanger in a solid fuel boiler, then under no circumstances increase the combustion time of the fuel. The heat transfer of fuel per unit time can decrease so much that the heating temperature of the coolant will be insufficient to heat the premises. Everyone can make a boiler and radiator according to their own drawings, determine in advance optimal parameters combustion is impossible, you will have to go the experimental route. In order to avoid problems during the operation of the sauna boiler, make all heating elements with a power reserve.

During site planning Vacation home Most owners strive to allocate a site for building a bathhouse. This place will not only help keep the body clean, but will also give health to the body for a long time and increase vitality. For Russian people, the bathhouse has always been more than just a place to receive water procedures. This is a whole cult that traditionally receives a lot of attention.

The central place inside is occupied by wood-burning sauna boilers with a tank. This type of fuel has a significant number of advantages over others. Also, during construction, it is possible to choose the most comfortable design scheme and its individual elements for a specific room. If you can’t do everything yourself, then you can simply buy a boiler for a wood-burning sauna, but this will require a much larger financial investment.

What does the boiler consist of?

Before choosing a ready-made boiler for a wood-burning sauna or its design for construction, you need to familiarize yourself with internal device system and its components. The overall efficiency of the design depends on the coordinated work of each component with the others.

The following elements are necessarily present in the scheme of homemade boilers for a wood-burning bath:

• The base part is a heater. It promotes the accumulation of heat generated by the system. The duration of retention depends on the total volume of the rock embankment capable of holding thermal energy, produced by firewood.
• Central chimney. Its basis is a vertical pipe through which light combustion products are discharged. It also generates traction, ensuring the circulation of air currents.
• Boilers for wood-fired saunas in Voronezh, Orel, Samara or another city cannot do without a water heat exchanger. Its function is to heat water for subsequent use.
• A passage tunnel with a small door will allow you to heat wood-fired sauna boilers, the price of which depends on the design, from the dressing room or from an adjacent room. This door is often made of heat-resistant glass.
• Firebox (firebox), the area in which firewood or other available solid fuel is heated. In this zone, heat is released from combustion products. The lower part is equipped with a grate of grates on which fuel is placed for various types, including cast iron boilers for wood-fired saunas. You will need to mount the door opposite the firebox, and also form bevels to automatically roll off combustion residues.
• In the lower part, the boilers of wood-burning baths (photos are presented on the page) have an ash pan. They are located under the grate and serve to collect burnt ash falling from the firebox.

Each do-it-yourself water boiler for a wood-fired sauna may differ from its analogues in the structural arrangement of individual elements. At the same time, dimensional parameters affect its performance.

Operating principle and device

Modern boilers for wood-fired baths, made with your own hands or purchased in a specialized store, have the same operating principle as those built many years ago. Solid fuel is placed inside the firebox using one of the possible ways. The option depends on the type of oven. During combustion, ash and soot accumulate. They wake up through the grate into the ash pit. From there, the cooled particles are removed manually with a spatula.

Warm air, heated by burning wood from the firebox, rises, providing heat to the heater and the layer of stones located on it. The latter slowly gives off its heat to the room, providing a comfortable temperature for the steam room.

Manufacturers offer combination boilers for wood-fired saunas that use gas as an alternative heating method. However, not all areas have the opportunity to connect to the gas supply system, so the classic monofuel model is more popular.

The difference between the designs of boilers in a wood-burning bathhouse (photo below, price here or on the manufacturer’s website) most often lies in the location of the water tank.

There are several areas of its installation that have positive qualities:

• Schemes with remote tanks. This type is the most popular design. With its help it is possible to obtain hot water, used in heating the remaining rooms of the building. This model allows you to warm up the air inside well before the water has time to boil. It is in demand in baths that use dry and hot air. High-quality stainless steel is used for the tank material. Installation is carried out, as a rule, in an adjacent room, and the connection is made using registers or a pipe hose. The disadvantage of the design is the relative complexity installation work, additional costs for registers and installation complexity.
• The mounting tank is mounted directly into the chamber to the firebox. The design is relevant for stoves made of pipes. The water in them is heated at the top point of the firebox. However, this is not always the case effective solution. The main rule used when installing such structures is maximum tightness for all seams, which will extend the service life of the device.
• The installation of a tank on a chimney pipe differs in two installation options: a tank in the shape of a cube or parallelogram serves as a passage unit to the roof, or the tank serves as a passage unit through the ceiling to the second floor. The container is heated not only due to heat exchange in the pipe, but also thanks to the furnace registers, which allows the use of significant volumes during heating of the liquid.
• The tank's hinged design allows for mounting on a wall or other vertical surface. The water is heated inside due to the heat exchange received from the furnace walls. The material used for this design is stainless steel.

Average prices for stoves with different locations of the water tank

Designs with built-in or mounted water tank

A tank for heating water is a metal container of a certain volume into which it is initially poured cold water and in the process of heating the oven, it heats up.

A hanging tank, which is located on the other side of the stove (in some cases even in another room) is not always convenient. Also dubious is the pleasure of washing from the tank, which is built into the stove body.

Firstly, it is impossible to control how much water is left and whether it needs to be added. Secondly, constantly boiling water will produce too much steam, which small room The steam room is not very comfortable.

Advantages of a remote water tank

Any storage container in a bathhouse can be heated in one of two ways - either from the firebox itself or from the chimney pipe. The remote tank can only heat up through the pipes leading from the furnace coil. The disadvantage of the design is the need to be close to the stove (no more than 300 cm), but for most steam rooms this is enough.

Example of a remote water tank

In general, heating water in a bathhouse can be organized systematically - if the tank is large, the best location would be a chimney, when the passing hot smoke heats the water. Small storage tanks can be installed directly on the heater, but then it is necessary to organize a good steam outlet. It is advisable to install small tanks outside the steam room.

Review of the best models

Present on the market wood stoves for a bathhouse with a tank, both domestic and foreign manufacturers. Let's review best models that have earned customer recognition.

The best foreign boilers for wood-fired saunas with a tank

When choosing a boiler for a wood-fired sauna, you should also think about its safety. Domestic models are often energy independent; foreign products require an electrical connection

A budget option from a Finnish manufacturer, which is characterized by a long service life, high performance and convenient operation.

Model specifications:

• Dimensions - 430x760x650 mm
• Weight - 75 kg
• Thermal power- 18 kW
• Chimney diameter - 115 mm
• The volume of the built-in tank is 20 liters.

The outer casing of the unit is made of of stainless steel, there is a cast iron door with glass to complement the special sauna atmosphere with the reflection of the fire.

The average cost of the stove will be 39,000 rubles.

The peculiarity of this model is that the body is made of stainless steel, resistant to corrosion, which is especially important when using the device in a sauna or bathhouse. The stove is installed in the steam room, but the fire is carried out from the adjacent room.

Specifications:

• Dimensions - 810x510x510 mm
• Weight without stones - 80 kg
• Thermal power - 31 kW
• Steam room volume - 14-36 cubic meters
• Chimney diameter - 115 mm

Average cost - 89,000 rubles.

A model with a built-in tank from a well-known Finnish manufacturer, which has been supplying high-quality stoves for baths and saunas to European markets for almost 100 years. Kastor Karhu 18 PK ES is made of stainless alloy metal and has a heat-resistant glass insert in the door.

Product Specifications:

• Dimensions - 435x695x780mm.
• Tank volume - 26 liters.
• Chimney diameter - 135 mm.
• The weight of the stove is 76 kg.
• Steam room volume - up to 18 cubic meters. meters.

The average cost of this model will be 49,000 rubles.

The best Russian boilers for wood-fired saunas with a tank

Russian models of wood-burning boilers are recognized throughout the world as high-quality and reliable equipment without any frills and excessive automation of combustion processes.

One of the best models of the domestic manufacturer “Teplodar”, which, when designing the product, paid great attention to the issue of the temperature of the exhaust flue gases, reducing it to a minimum and thereby ensuring a comfortable atmosphere in the steam room.

Specifications:

• Dimensions - 702x331x850mm.
• Weight - 46 kg.
• Material - structural steel.
• Type of heater: open.
• Chimney diameter - 115 mm.
• Steam room volume - up to 10 cubic meters.

The main advantage of the model is that the firebox walls are made of structural steel up to 4 mm thick, which ensures a long service life of the product. It is also worth noting the low cost of the device - on average, the purchase will cost 12,000 rubles.

Compact model for arranging a small bathhouse with a steam room volume of up to 14 square meters. meters. The firebox is made of steel 6 mm thick. The body and flue system are made of steel 4 mm thick, in places with the greatest thermal load - lined steel up to 6 mm.

Design Features:

• Firebox depth - up to 500 mm.
• The location of the chimney is central.
• Power - 12 kW.

The average cost of such a stove is 11,900 rubles.

A stove for a bath from a Tver manufacturer, which offers its customers economical and easy-to-use designs. Convenient option for the bathhouse that is not connected to the water supply. The water tank is hung in a special pocket on the side wall of the stove; heating is carried out by heat transfer from the wall of the structure. The main advantage is that the tank is removable, it is easy to remove and wash.

Technical characteristics of the device:

• Power - 18 kW.
• Combustion chamber capacity - 0.075 cubic meters.
• Fuel - firewood.
• Dimensions - 860x450x720 mm.
• Weight - 120 kg.
• The internal volume of the chimney is 110mm.
• Steam room volume - 24 cubic meters. meters.
• The capacity of the mounted tank is 50 liters.

Among the advantages of this model, it is worth highlighting such points as ease of installation and maintenance, there is no need for a water supply system, the water tank is made of food grade steel, fast heating of water, uniform heating of stones.

And, of course, you shouldn’t forget about this main advantage - it’s affordable price - average price products will cost 18,000 rubles.

A compact wood-burning stove with a water tank and a steel turbo firebox that optimizes the combustion process until the fuel is completely burned with maximum heat release.

Specifications:

• Dimensions - 720x500x800 mm.
• Steam room volume - up to 26 cubic meters.
• Tank volume - 35 liters.
• Chimney diameter - 110 mm.
• Firebox material - steel.
• Weight - 90 kg.
• Metal thickness - 10mm.

Among the advantages of this model, we highlight the following: the presence of a mirrored metal door, a convenient cleaning hole, additional stiffening ribs, and triple protection against infrared radiation.

The average cost of the device will be 24,000 rubles.

VIDEO: 10 secrets of a sauna stove

One of the key stages in the construction of a building such as a bathhouse is the direct assembly heating device, which is a boiler or oven. In order to begin installing a homemade boiler in a bathhouse with your own hands, you need to decide in what ways it differs from a stove.

In principle, we can say that in most cases there are no special differences between such installations. This is due to the fact that they perform approximately the same functions:

1. Create a comfortable temperature in the room;
2. Heat the water;
3. Heat the stones.

Types of boilers for baths

It should be said that designs can be differentiated depending on the fuel used:

When choosing the material from which the boiler will be made, certain points should also be taken into account. For example, cast iron boilers are not suitable for installation directly in a steam room, since due to high humidity they may simply burst. They will have to make separate room, which is not very advisable in an ordinary bathhouse.

In this regard, it is best to install boilers made of the following materials directly in the steam room:

1. Metal;
2. Brick;
3. Metal lined with brick.

If we talk about tradition, they built in bathhouses brick kilns large sizes, but now due to modern technologies today you can build a boiler small size, especially when using metal. It is worth saying that not every person is able to purchase a boiler made at a factory, so you can make it yourself.

You need to decide on the fuel that will be used in the boiler. Gas and electrical installations You should not assemble it yourself - such installations are purchased ready-made. Neither electricians nor gas workers will allow you to install similar homemade boilers yourself, as this can lead to an emergency. The easiest way is to make a boiler that runs on solid fuel.

DIY pipe boiler

An iron boiler welded from a metal pipe has a very simple structure. Preparatory work in this case, they are limited only to studying several drawings of these devices, as well as purchasing all the required consumables.

Almost always, such boilers are made from a metal pipe of fairly large diameter. It is most convenient to take a diameter of approximately 500 mm; a length of no more than one meter would be quite suitable. Due to this, you can get a device that can create a comfortable temperature in a room whose volume is about 15 cubic meters or approximately 9 square meters.

To produce such a boiler it will not be possible to do without the following tools:

1. Welding or electric;
2. Angle grinder or grinder;
3. Metal cutting wheels for grinders.

First prepare the pipe:

1. At the first stage, three supports are made that will stand parallel to the surface of the earth at three different levels. To do this, you need to take three pieces of reinforcement, the diameter of which should be 14 mm and the length 3 cm. The first level is required in order to install the stove. The second one is placed depending on where the blower door will be located. The third is installed 20 cm from the top edge of the pipe;
2. The circle acts as the bottom required sizes , which is cut from a steel sheet whose thickness is at least 5 mm;
3. For the grate through which combustion products will fall, as well as supplying the oxygen required to maintain combustion, you will need a circle of sheet metal. An already perforated sheet is taken or slots are made in it;
4. The furnace lid acts as a support for the stones, so it is also made of sheet steel with a thickness of 5 mm. In the central part you need to cut a hole into which the chimney pipe is inserted;
5. A slot is made in the lower part of the future boiler for installing the door;
6. In some cases, a box is installed instead of a door, through which fuel will be supplied to the boiler.

The entire structure is assembled at its final location following the following sequence of actions:

1. At the first stage, a box is welded into the structure. If this work is already carried out directly in the bathhouse, then the box is placed in the boiler in such a way that it goes either into the dressing room or onto the street;
2. Weld into a pre-prepared hole. This work should be given as much attention as possible, since if even the slightest hole is left, combustion products will pass through it into the steam room and accumulate there. This can have a very negative impact on a person’s health;
3. The structure is quite heavy, so it is necessary to build a foundation for it. The easiest way is to make a reinforced concrete slab. Instead, a concrete or reinforced concrete screed is suitable. Moreover, it is poured onto crushed stone, the layer of which must be at least 15 cm;
4. The structure is placed on a prepared base, and stones are placed on the lid.

In principle, instead of a metal pipe, craftsmen often use a barrel suitable sizes. Wherein this design can be built without the use of any power tools, except for a welding machine - all holes are cut out with a chisel or an ax. All other actions will be exactly the same as when working with a piece of pipe.

Boilers for saunas made of pipes with heaters

Metal boiler

A sauna boiler can be made from steel sheets - the result should be an open stove, which is lined with bricks for safety.

At the first stage, they acquire everything necessary for the manufacture of such a design:

• Sheet steel, the minimum thickness of which must be 5 mm– it will be used to build the walls of the boiler;
• 10mm steel for making the bottom. Here the material is taken thicker, because it heats up more under the influence of high temperatures;
• Various accessories For heating devices;
• Reinforcement thickness no more than 4-5 mm, from which the mesh for the stones will be welded;
• Channels;
• Galvanized sheet for removal of combustion products– its thickness should be about 2 mm;
• Asbestos for upper elements chimney.

Before starting work on the manufacture of a heating boiler, a drawing of it is developed, where the structure should be shown from above, from the side, and in section. All dimensions are given strictly in millimeters. When this is done, the drawing is transferred on a one-to-one scale to the purchased materials.

The boiler body is assembled from steel sheets. Welding should be approached very responsibly and the metal should be thoroughly welded throughout its entire thickness, otherwise fistulas will gradually begin to form in these areas under the influence of high temperature.

A hole is cut in the upper part of the boiler for subsequent installation of a chimney. Immediately weld the tin pipe. It is worth noting that in this case it will be necessary to use special electrodes.

When constructing such a structure, it will also be necessary to make a foundation for the furnace, otherwise the floor simply will not support the weight of the product. The foundation must be made using the same technology as for a boiler made of a metal pipe.

Installation Rules

You need to take care of your own safety, since a steel stove can heat up to a temperature of 500 degrees or even more; if you slip on the floor, you can get a serious burn

First of all, you should remember that it is necessary to make a brick heat shield around a metal boiler. Thanks to this, high temperatures will be significantly reduced and mitigated.

The result of the work should be a brick screen with ventilation holes around the entire perimeter. This must be done for all types of boilers made of metal.

In bathhouses, as a rule, the entire steam room is made of wood, so measures should be taken into account fire safety. In particular, they say that a distance of at least 50 cm must be maintained from flammable walls.

If it is not possible to take this rule into account, then you will have to use either brickwork, or special sheets of thermal insulation that cover the flammable surface from the floor to the ceiling.

When passing a pipe through the ceiling, you can also ignore several important points which may subsequently lead to a fire. If it was made of non-flammable materials, then the hole for the pipe is made of a larger diameter, and the rest of the space is covered with non-combustible mineral wool, and also covered with basalt cardboard from the bottom and top.

You need to take care of your own safety, since a steel stove can heat up to a temperature of 500 degrees or even more; if you slip on the floor, you can get a serious burn. In this regard, it is advisable to make floors from non-slip materials. Wood is most suitable for this purpose. Many people lay out floors from ceramic tiles, which becomes very slippery when wet, so it’s better to avoid it.

• It is strictly forbidden to build a bathhouse too close to other buildings, as this can cause a major fire. Due to this location of the bathhouse, experts may not allow the installation of a gas or electric boiler;
• To increase fire safety indicators, there must be a grate at the outlet of the pipe a spark arrester that will prevent burning coals from flying out of the stove;
• If at work iron stove If certain defects begin to be observed, they should be eliminated immediately, as this may cause gas contamination in the steam room. Particularly dangerous in this regard carbon monoxide, since it is completely odorless.

If you have a task to install or make your own boiler in a bathhouse, it is worth understanding the requirements for it, features of use and other nuances. This will allow you to get a high-quality device that will provide the necessary returns.

It should be noted that a sauna boiler and a stove have no fundamental differences, since both devices provide fuel combustion, space heating and, in some cases, water heating. However, this is only functionality; as for the features of bath structures, there are differences. The boiler is a metal tank, and the furnace is a brick structure created according to furnace standards.

In the latter case, more costs for materials and more space will be required. Moreover, the implementation of the project requires large investments, since the furnace business is quite specific, and therefore requires the actions of specialists.

Brick boiler

Therefore, it is much easier and cheaper to make a boiler for a bath with your own hands.

Types and features

Note: To choose the best design option for a sauna boiler, it is worth understanding its varieties. For example, there are devices used to heat the entire bath, and there are products that provide heating exclusively for the steam room.

If the bathhouse consists of many rooms (steam room, treatment room, dressing room, relaxation room, shower room, etc.), you need to ensure the installation of additional heating devices, which are located in separate rooms. In such conditions, as a rule, two devices are used - for a steam room, heating, and hot water.

If the bathhouse is small, then one unit is enough, which will take over all the functions. This approach is more convenient and expedient.

Boilers for baths can be:

• electric – used, but very carefully, considering high level dangers of using electrical equipment in rooms with high temperature and humidity, and there must be electricity in the room;

• on gaseous fuel - liquefied natural gas, which means that gas supply must be connected to the site;

• liquid fuel - fuel oil, diesel, kerosene, etc.; such fuel is not always available, so the advisability of using such a design remains at the discretion of the owner;

• solid fuel - using wood, peat, coal, waste, etc.; such designs require constant temperature support by adding solid fuel to the boiler.

Among solid fuel structures, we can highlight pyrolysis boilers for baths, which are products long burning. They provide ease of maintenance and long-lasting maintenance of the required temperature. For heating, firewood or pellets are used with a certain humidity - up to 12%. The fuel is loaded with your own hands once, and the effect of the boiler is ensured for a day.

Material of construction

Separately, it is necessary to note the classification of materials used for the manufacture of units.

Cast iron boilers for baths are used quite rarely. Not used in steam rooms. Installed only in separate rooms. These are suitable sauna boilers for heating water and heating.

The following products are used for steam rooms:

• metal;

• metal with brick lining;

• brick.

Brick boiler for a bath

The first option can be purchased ready-made, while the other two require the participation of professionals to be manufactured on site. As a result, each type will cost a lot. Therefore, many people try to make a boiler for a bath with their own hands. Of course, this activity is fraught with certain difficulties and requires time and financial costs, but using the unit you have made will be much more pleasant, because it is made with your own hands.

With removable hatch

Combinations

Let's consider several successful combinations of boilers that can be used for a bath and made with your own hands:

• Pellet and electric. The disadvantage of this solution is the cost of the equipment. Therefore, quite large initial costs are required. In this case, you will need to allocate quite a lot of space to place the devices. However, there are also advantages of this solution: the affordable cost of pellet fuel, the possibility of automating the process, reducing costs by turning on the electric boiler only at night if a two-tariff meter is installed.

• Gas and . This is a technological solution that will allow you to fully automate the process, without fiddling with solid or liquid fuel, while always being provided with heat. After all, if there is a power outage, the gas supply is unlikely to be interrupted and vice versa.

• Coal and electric boiler. Under certain conditions, such a combination can be both beneficial and convenient. Of course, you need to be able to buy coal profitably.

Coal or electric boiler, which is used in baths

Knowledge and skills

First you need to decide on the fuel on which the boiler will operate, because many other parameters depend on this.

Note: Considering the safety conditions, accessibility and traditional nature of the procedure, it is better to choose. Do-it-yourself solid fuel units are quite simple to build, lightweight and easy to maintain.

If you choose, for example, for a bath, this increases the danger of carrying out bath procedures. In addition, the installation of such a unit will require approval from regulatory authorities.

Therefore, solid fuel units - optimal choice. And their organization should begin with the preparation of diagrams and drawings. Some elements today can be purchased at construction stores, the rest can be done with your own hands. And the result can be no worse than in the photo.

It is especially important to have the skills to use a welding machine. This is necessary to obtain a high-quality weld, ensuring the reliability and durability of the structure.

Creation

So, let's try to make a cauldron for a sauna with our own hands. For small rooms it is quite possible to make a homemade structure from several metal pipes. You can take products with a diameter of up to 50 cm with a wall thickness of up to 1 cm. To ensure maximum compact placement, the sauna boiler can be made vertical.

Features of self-production of an effective boiler for a bath

You should also use:

• grate;
• tap for water tank;
• fittings for creating a heater;
• three steel circles: for the bottom, top covers;
• hinges and latches for doors.

The main tools are a grinder and a welding machine.

To organize the firebox, a pipe 90 cm long is used. A cutout 20 cm long and 5 cm deep is made in it. At the bottom of the boiler it will be needed as a vent. To provide the ability to change the draft, a sash with a latch is installed.

A grate is installed above the ash pit (the height should be convenient for loading firewood). It needs to be welded. Even higher is a hole for the door, which is hung on hinges.

Installation of a metal boiler in a bathhouse

Reinforcing bars are welded inside the pipe, which will serve as the foundation for the heater. Another hole is made in the upper part of the structure, which will allow liquid to be added to the stones to generate steam.

Finally, it is necessary to weld steel sheets on top and bottom of the structure, ensuring its tightness. The top cover must have a hole for the chimney, which is welded.

A 60 cm long pipe is installed on the structure, which will be used as a water tank. A tap is installed at the bottom of the product, and a circle cut into two parts is installed at the top. One plays the role of a hinged lid for pouring water (for this you need to provide a handle with a wooden cover), the other part is secured by welding.

Of course, such a boiler for a bath is not the only design that you can make with your own hands. Products may differ in type, size, shape and other features. Moreover, the devices can be used not only for heating, but also for hot water use. Finished structures are installed on a concrete foundation. If appearance is unpresentable, it can be refined with your own hands by covering it with brick. This will also make it safer to use.

The result is an attractive and functional solution.

Making a sauna stove from a pipe