And the fact that the flower grows in a pot on the windowsill, and the access of insects from the street is limited, it is not always possible to protect it from the attack of this species. And pests can move from a diseased plant to healthy ones, since not all gardeners can get rid of aphids on home chrysanthemums. Meanwhile, this struggle is not so difficult.

Ways of infection by aphids indoor chrysanthemums numerous.

The most common:

• infection from a flower that has newly appeared in the house;
• aphids entering the house with meadow grasses and flowers, garden vegetables and herbs;
• using untreated soil for replanting plants, etc.

If it happens that aphids appear on a chrysanthemum, how to get rid of uninvited guests it is very important to know. Insects reproduce at lightning speed, needing more and more food every day. In addition to the fact that flowers lose their decorative appeal, they may die. Aphids on domestic chrysanthemums should be destroyed as soon as possible. This will save the indoor beauty from death and prevent infection of other plants.

Means to combat aphids

If aphids are found on a domestic chrysanthemum, experienced gardeners will tell you how to get rid of the pest.

And if you don’t have anyone to ask for advice, feel free to go to a store for summer residents. In any such outlet there is effective remedy against aphids.

Chemicals

What remedy to use against aphids on chrysanthemums? Carefully study the proposed range of insecticides.

Among similar means most in demand by lovers of indoor chrysanthemums:

• Metaphos;
• Phosphomide.

Following the instructions for use, you need to prepare a working solution. Before spraying a chrysanthemum against aphids, you need to remove pets and people from the room, wear gloves and a respirator, and after treatment, do not forget to ventilate the room.

If it is possible to spray on the street or at least on the balcony, this should be used in order to reduce the harmful effects of insecticides on people and animals.

The plant is treated completely, from the root part to the tops of the buds and tips of the leaves. Don't forget about the soil. It can be shed with Aktara.

Since it is not always possible to remove aphids from chrysanthemums the first time, repeated treatment is carried out after 3-7 days.

Traditional methods

• . This remedy is probably in your first aid kit. Ammonia helps get rid of pests on home chrysanthemums very effectively. It is diluted with water (1:10), and using a spray bottle, the plant is sprayed. Repeated treatment is carried out at intervals of 2-3 days. Some craftsmen successfully use store-bought glass cleaning liquid for these purposes, which contains ammonia and is free of harmful impurities;
• Onion peel. Take two handfuls of these vegetable wastes and pour boiling water (a liter of water). On a low power stove, boil the husks for 5 minutes, let the broth brew for a day. Then pour the liquid into a spray bottle and spray the chrysanthemum bush completely;
• Garlic. If you grind a couple of teeth with a press, pour in 250 ml warm water, leave for an hour and a half. After filtering, the infusion is diluted with water to a volume of 1 liter. Chrysanthemums are sprayed several times during the day at intervals of 3-4 hours;
• Laundry soap. IN hot water dissolve grated laundry soap (tar can be used): per liter of water - 2 tablespoons of soap shavings. Then allow the product to cool. Spray the chrysanthemum completely with it. You can wash each sheet with a soft cloth. Soap is harmful to the respiratory system of aphids, and its viscosity promotes the formation of plaque, which acts as a trap and does not allow insects to escape;
• Citrus peel. Have you eaten an orange (lemon)? Don't rush to throw away the fragrant peel. This is how you can treat chrysanthemums against aphids effectively and safely. To prepare the infusion, the peel is dried and crushed. Then a handful of raw materials is poured with a liter of boiling water and left for three days in a dark place at room temperature. After the exposure time has expired, the infusion is filtered. Using a sprayer, treat the chrysanthemum bush;
• Shag. Unpleasant aroma tobacco expels aphids. At the same time, there is a possibility that it will crawl onto neighboring plants if the chrysanthemum being treated is not placed “in quarantine.”

Conclusion

With proper care, chrysanthemums can delight the eye with pretty flowers for a long time, bringing comfort to the home. However, prevent abundant flowering Aphids are capable.

In most cases, the source of infection will be unopened buds and young leaves; aphids settle on the inside of leaves and on the surface of young shoots, sucking out all the nutritious juices and minerals. As a result, the shoots dry out and curl into tubes, and the buds lose their shape, turning into a bunch of dry petals.

Aphids not only suck out nutrients from young plant, it can infect a flower with harmful microbes, which will lead to the death of the chrysanthemum without the possibility of its recovery; it is this reason that requires immediate elimination of pests.

To eliminate aphids on house flowers, including chrysanthemums, you can use proven traditional methods, but you can use modern drugs. First of all, it is recommended to try homemade recipes, since they do not harm either the flower or human health.

When folk methods do not help or do not fully cope with the problem, modern drugs will come to the rescue.

Chrysanthemum is one of the most beautiful autumn flowers, which is grown not only in flower beds, but also at home. There are a large number of its species and varieties intended for growing in pots at home. As a rule, they are disease-resistant and do not require complex care. The only enemy of such indoor flowers is aphids.

Homemade chrysanthemum is very beautiful, but is susceptible to aphid attack

How to recognize aphids

Aphids are small (up to 2 mm) insects that live in colonies and reproduce quickly. The reason for its invasion of indoor plants can be just one female, which flew through an open window or was carried in with a bouquet.

Most often, aphids settle on unopened buds, young leaves (on the underside) and the tips of shoots. These insects are easy to spot by carefully examining the plant.

The first signs of plant damage are:

• curling or gluing of leaves;
• flower buds do not bloom, but eventually dry out and fall off;
• blooming flowers have an irregular shape;
• the appearance of liquid, sugary clots, in place of which a fungus can develop.

All this happens because the insect sucks nutritional juices and minerals from the plant. In addition, aphids infect the plant with harmful bacteria and viruses, which can lead to death. That is why you need to get rid of it immediately.

Aphids suck nutritious juices from chrysanthemums

Chemical methods of controlling aphids

The most effective and quick way combating harmful insects - the use of insecticides (chemicals from the pesticide group). These are Actellik, Intavir, Agravertin, Fitoverm, Neoron.

Before treating with chemicals, it is better to wash the plant. This will help get rid of large quantities pests. Treatment with chemicals is carried out by spraying or adding them to the soil. This is done in several stages. The first spraying is carried out when signs of infection appear. The plant is treated a second time after a few weeks to prevent the appearance of new insects. After treatment with these products, the plant needs to be covered with film for a while.

When using chemicals, you must take the following precautions:

• use gloves and a respirator for work;
• After processing the plant, wash your hands and face well;
• Dispose of items that were used when working with chemicals.

A more harmless means of killing aphids for humans is a glass washing liquid containing ammonia. It is enough just to spray the flower with this product a few times.

In pest control you can use regular washing powder, or rather foam. When applied to a plant, the access of air to insects is cut off and they die.

You can also use anti-flea shampoo for pets. Add 1 cap of shampoo to 0.5 liters of water, and spray the plant with the resulting solution. Shampoo can be used not only to kill pests, but also for preventive purposes.

If any family member is allergic to chemicals or there are pets living in the house, it is better not to use chemicals, but folk remedies.

Actellik - insecticide against aphids

Folk remedies against aphids

Traditional methods of insect control are not so effective, but when used in an integrated manner, with constant and proper care for home chrysanthemum, they give good results.

Soap solution

The leaves and shoots of the infected plant are sprayed with a soap solution. It is prepared in a ratio of 1 part soap to 6 parts boiled water. Spray or carefully wash all the leaves with the prepared solution. Repeat the procedure several times until the pests are destroyed.

You can use potassium green soap. A small piece of this soap needs to be grated and dissolved in 1 liter of plain water. Wash the affected flower with the resulting solution. Do this carefully so that the solution does not get into the soil and destroy the root system.

Tobacco decoction helps get rid of pests. To prepare it, tobacco (it can be removed from any cigarettes) is poured into 1 liter of slightly heated water and left for 2 days. After this, the broth is boiled, allowed to cool and filtered. When processing flowers, cover the soil in the pot with film or newspaper.

Decoction tobacco can be extracted from any cigarette

Citrus peel

You need to pour 200 g of orange or lemon peel with 1 liter of boiling water and leave in a warm place for three days. Then spray the affected plant generously with this infusion.

Garlic infusion

An infusion of garlic helps to quickly get rid of pests on house plants without harming them. To prepare it, you need to peel and chop a small head of garlic. Then pour it with 1 glass of water and leave for about half an hour. Then strain and dilute clean water so that it turns out to be 1 liter. Spray the flowers with the solution throughout the day. I recommend doing this every 3-4 hours.

Pelargonium

Placed next to an infected plant fragrant pelargonium, you can quickly remove aphids. Pelargonium emits a scent that repels it.

By choosing the right way to combat aphids, you can get rid of them in just a couple of days.

Chrysanthemum is considered the queen autumn garden. At a time when other plants stop blooming, she begins to delight us with her beautiful buds. Although the plant is easy to care for, gardeners often encounter such a common problem as white bloom on chrysanthemum leaves. What leads to the development of the disease and what preventive measures what needs to be done to protect flowers from pests, it will be useful to know.

Non-communicable diseases

A perennial plant does not require compliance complex rules care, so even a novice gardener can grow it. Breeders managed to breed chrysanthemum different shades- from white-pink, raspberry, burgundy to bright yellow. Since the chrysanthemum grows in one place for many years without transplantation, it begins to undergo various diseases. Despite their high resistance to disease, it is difficult for flowers to resist garden infections, and young plants often suffer from attacks by insect pests.

The reason for the appearance of such diseases of chrysanthemums is a violation of the rules for caring for the plant: not followed temperature regime, the soil suffers from excess or deficiency mineral fertilizers, chrysanthemum is filled with water. Curing flowers in this case is not difficult - it is necessary to identify and eliminate the error in the growing technology.

Diseases belonging to the group of non-infectious diseases do not pass from the affected flower to a healthy one, but they do not allow the bushes to develop normally and cause general depletion of the plant. The appearance of diseases in chrysanthemums can be caused by 3 factors.

1. Rotting of plant roots is caused by lack of drainage system in the ground. Oxygen stops flowing into the ground, and when watering flowers, water is not absorbed properly. The roots of the plant turn sour and are not fed with the beneficial substances necessary for active growth, as a result of which the flower begins to wither, its leaves turn yellow, die and chrysanthemums die.
2. Gardeners need to carefully monitor compliance with the watering regime. Excess water causes deformation of the plant. Microcracks appear on the bush, which lead to the fact that the buds are unable to stay on top and begin to break off. Lack of moisture is dangerous for chrysanthemums. Without water, the plant begins to wither, its inflorescences become smaller, and the foliage dries and falls off.
3. Flowers also get sick from sudden temperature changes. If not covered flowering plants in early spring During cold weather, the leaves turn red and become covered with veins.

After planting chrysanthemums, carefully monitor the bushes. Flowers always signal a deterioration in your health. If you react in time, you can save them from death.

Proper feeding of flowers

The deterioration of the general condition of chrysanthemums and the appearance of brown spots on the leaves and stems can be caused by the lack of nutrients in the soil. The most suitable organic matter for feeding flowers is humus, wood ash, compost. Take your time and devote Special attention this process.

The color of the foliage will help you guess that the flower is suffering from a lack of microelements. In chrysanthemums that, during the period of active flowering and growth, lack nitrogen fertilizers, they turn from dark green to whitish. If the flower buds are crushed and the leaves are curled, it means that the plant needs to be fertilized with potassium fertilizers.

You can purchase in specialized stores ready-made mixtures for fertilizing chrysanthemums. The plant will stop withering and begin to actively develop if you regularly feed it with a mixture that includes 20 g of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus.

The minerals needed by flowers are added several times a year. During landing, except organic fertilizers, superphosphates are added under the chrysanthemum bush. After 20 days, the procedure is repeated. After the plant begins to form buds, you should feed the chrysanthemums a third time. For 1 sq. m. of land will need 30 g of phosphorus and 40 g of potassium. Required condition fertilization is watering the plants abundantly with water room temperature.

Chrysanthemums will bloom magnificently only if the soil contains all the necessary microelements

Excess mineral fertilizers are also dangerous for chrysanthemums. This causes the leaves of the plant to turn red, curl, and then fall off. It is important to follow a clear schedule for adding organic matter. During the year, the plant is fertilized no more than 3-4 times. If you notice that you made a mistake in the dosage, and this affected the condition of the bushes, reduce the amount minerals and take a break from feeding.

Infectious diseases

Chrysanthemum diseases and their treatment are the main problem of the florist. They are easily transmitted from infected plants to healthy bushes, so if no measures are taken in time, you can completely lose all the flowers. The development of infection weakens chrysanthemums, causing the plant to wither, dry out and die. Malignant tumors often form on the foliage and roots of the flower.

There are more than 20 types of infectious diseases that can stop the development of chrysanthemums. Most are fungal diseases. Spores of microorganisms infect the leaves, which, under the influence of the disease, turn yellow and fall off, the roots rot, and the inflorescences dry out.

White rust

A disease that occurs in domestic chrysanthemums. A sign that a flower is infected are spots on the foliage. At first, the disease is barely noticeable, but gradually it begins to occupy an increasingly larger area, as a result of which a brown coating covers the entire leaf. Distinctive feature The disease is that the infected parts of the flower do not fall off.

With the development of the fungus, pathogenic spores are formed on chrysanthemums, which are easily transferred to other plants. They penetrate the foliage and begin to destroy the flower:

• leaves turn yellow;
• the bush stops developing;
• gradually withers and loses its attractive appearance.

Timely preventive measures will help to resist garden infections. Having noticed that chrysanthemums are infected with white rust, begin to act decisively. Flowers completely covered with brown spots should be carefully removed. Bushes on which the fungus has not yet appeared should be sprayed with fungicides.

Rust on chrysanthemum

The following drugs have proven themselves to be excellent: Myclobutanil, Azoxystrobin, Difenoconazole. Copper oxychloride is often used. Please note that initial treatment may not give the desired result, since the fungal infection is resistant to many medications. In this case, it is necessary to repeat the procedure or select another antibacterial agent.

Gray rot in flowers

The factor that provokes the occurrence of fungus is a sharp change in climatic conditions. Due to the cold, the infection begins to actively develop and affects the chrysanthemum inflorescence. Brown spots appear on the buds, leading to complete destruction flower. It rots and falls off, and the leaves immediately begin to turn yellow.

Newly planted plants also suffer from gray rot. In this case, the stem of the cuttings becomes covered with brown spots, which arise as a result of soil rotting.

Treatment of plants begins with gardeners correcting mistakes made when planting bushes. Chrysanthemums completely affected by the fungus are removed along with the top layer of soil. Do not forget to treat garden tools with antibacterial agents, otherwise fungal spores will spread to other plants. Chrysanthemums are sprayed with Fundazol, Ronilan and Chistotsvet.

Another name for this chrysanthemum disease is leaf spot. Sick flowers are visible to the naked eye. Appear on the plant brown spots, the leaves turn red, curl and fall off, and the buds freeze and do not develop.

First, septoria affects the lower part of the flower, eventually spreading to the entire bush. In a greenhouse, fungal spores actively develop when the ventilation regime is violated. In plants planted on garden plot, the infection manifests itself due to crowding of bushes, which prevent each other from developing.

When you see brown spots, start treatment. Start by carefully removing any yellowed foliage. It would be useful to reduce the amount of input useful fertilizers, especially nitrogen substances, an excess of which causes yellowing of the foliage.

Treatment begins with treating damaged seedlings with copper-soap liquid. Preparing the solution at home is not difficult. Based on 1 liter of water, take 10-15 g copper sulfate, and 100-120 g of soap dissolves in 5 liters of water. You should not prepare the mixture in advance, otherwise it may lose its healing properties.

No less often, copper oxychloride and Bordeaux mixture are used to spray chrysanthemums against septoria.

This is the most dangerous fungal disease chrysanthemums The infection penetrates the epithelium of the plant, causing the formation of severe plaque. Fungal spores actively develop if the fertilizer application regime is disrupted, as well as due to dry weather. The danger of powdery mildew lies in the fact that even after removing the plants, this infection can remain in the soil.

White plaque is treated by treating chrysanthemums with a mixture that includes soap and soda. The ingredients are taken at the rate of 35 g of substances per 10 liters of warm water. To treat bushes covered powdery mildew, is necessary good weather. The air temperature should not be lower than +20 °C. Gardeners recommend using copper sulfate for these purposes.

Chrysanthemum powdery mildew

Fusarium blight of chrysanthemums

The disease manifests itself as follows:

• the leaves of the plant curl;
• the roots dry out;
• the stem begins to rot.

The affected areas of flowers are visible even with a cursory examination. A white coating appears on the chrysanthemum - fungal spores. The infection is resistant to temperature changes, so it survives even after a cold winter. After removing the top, the spores remain in the rhizome, so it is better to dig it up completely.

Measures to combat the disease include careful selection planting material, treatment of chrysanthemums with Fundazol solution.

Root bacterial cancer

This dangerous disease cannot be cured. Fungal spores land on chrysanthemums from contaminated soil. The new growth begins to actively develop, as a result of which the plant stem becomes covered with ugly growths.

Remember, diseased bushes should be pulled out immediately, after which it is recommended to treat the soil. Formalin will stop the spread of infection. The solution is prepared as follows: for 10 liters of water you need to take 150-200 g of medicine. The resulting amount of mixture covers 4-5 square meters. m of soil. Land on this plot of land any plants are allowed no earlier than after 25 days.

Chrysanthemum nematode

Harmful insects

Plants and many insects are hazardous to health. Pests of chrysanthemums are flower aphids, mites, nematodes, and pennies. They not only feed on flowers, but are also carriers of various fungal diseases. How dangerous are these insects for plants and what are the ways to combat them? helpful information for the florist.

1. Greenhouse aphid. This microscopic insect settles in a whole colony on the bush. You can see aphids if you peel back a leaf of the plant. Pests settle on both flowers and stems. When multiplying, the insect sucks nutrients from the plant, thereby destroying it. The leaves lose their shape, turn yellow and gradually fall off. The buds dry out without ever blooming. If there are not very many insects on the plant, it is recommended to simply tear off the affected leaves or wash with water at room temperature. In the case when a colony of pests lives on a chrysanthemum, medications are used to help get rid of them. In specialized stores you can find “BI-58”, “Calypso”, “Confidor”, “Fitoverm”, “Mospilan”. From folk remedies Regular laundry soap works well against aphids.
2. Spider mites. These pests of chrysanthemums are also found on other flowers. They are dangerous because as a result of their vital activity, a web is formed that destroys the foliage on the plant. Because of it, the chrysanthemum immediately begins to go bald - the leaves turn yellow, dry out and fall off. Hot weather promotes the reproduction of insects. During the summer, pests breed 4 times. Insects tolerate subzero temperatures overwintering in the ground. If preventive measures are not taken in time, you can lose all the chrysanthemums in your garden plot. Traditional methods do not help in the fight against aphids, so you should resort to specialized means. The following drugs have proven themselves well: Actellik and Fitoverm.
3. Leaf nematode. These pests love to live in plant debris. From soil contaminated with larvae, the worms end up on chrysanthemums, where they immediately begin to multiply. They feed on the plant, causing it to stop blooming. The main sign that chrysanthemums are affected by a nematode are huge yellow-brown spots on the leaves. Remember, it is necessary to remove the affected plant from the garden along with the top layer of soil in which the larvae can live. The torn bushes must be burned. With the onset of warm weather in early spring, the soil is thoroughly loosened. When watering plants, make sure that drops of water do not fall on the foliage. It is recommended to treat the plant with green soap and the drug “Phosfamide” diluted in water.
4. Meadow bug. Such pests live on the flowers and leaves of the plant, causing them to dry out and fall off. The chrysanthemum is deformed. The flower becomes smaller and does not develop properly, and the leaves become stained. To combat insects, the same drugs are used as for treating aphids. Folk remedies use a solution of regular baby shampoo, which is used to treat the affected areas of the plant.

Conclusion

Chrysanthemum diseases and pests can cause significant damage to your garden. In order for the flowers to be filled with strength and be able to resist fungal infections, you should carefully follow the basic rules for caring for the plant: regularly fertilize chrysanthemums, follow the watering regime, and use high-quality soil for planting cuttings. Inspect plants regularly for diseases. Special measures will help prevent the spread of infection medicines. To combat insects, there are ready-made preparations, with which you can treat chrysanthemums and save your garden. The main thing is that when pests are detected, do not hesitate and immediately begin to act.

Gray rot (BotrytiscinereaPers.)

This fungal disease is especially evident in the autumn-winter period, during flowering and preservation of mother plants. At the same time, everything is affected aboveground part. A characteristic feature is an ash-gray fluffy coating. Light brown watery spots appear on the inflorescences, which grow and form a brown rotten mass. The disease can also affect rooted cuttings.

Control measures. Ventilation of greenhouses, good lighting And normal temperature. Spraying plants with Topsin-M, foundationazol, Chorus, as well as biological products - Trichodermin and Mikosan - is also effective.

Septoria leaf blight (SeptoriachrysanthemellaSace)

Disease appears on the leaves in the form of dark brown, almost black spots with a yellowish border. The spots merge and cover the entire leaf. As a result, diseased leaves fall off. The disease manifests itself with unilateral application of nitrogen fertilizers.

Control measures. Diseased leaves must be removed and burned. Do not thicken the plantings so that there is good ventilation. In this case, watering is reduced. Also treat plants with systemic fungicides (foundazol, Topsin-M) and Bordeaux mixture.

Powdery mildew (Oidiumchrysanthemi)

Typical sign - formation of a grayish-white powdery coating on the leaves, stems and inflorescences. The disease leads to the death of leaves and general depression of the plant. Not all varieties are affected by powdery mildew, so it is necessary to select more resistant varieties to the disease. It appears when there is a lack of potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.

Control measures. Do not plant plants too thickly, water carefully without wetting the leaves, and remove affected leaves. You should also treat chrysanthemums with sulfur (3-4 times per summer), Topsin-M, Quadris, Topaz and Bayleton.

"Balding" of inflorescences

In this case most flowers in the inflorescence are undeveloped, the inflorescences themselves seem to be “bald”. This phenomenon is not typical for all varieties. The cause of the disease is considered to be a nutritional disorder during the formation of flower buds. The tendency for chrysanthemums to “bald” is hereditary.

Control measures. Select healthy and high-quality queen cells and fertilize the plants in a timely manner.

Chrysanthemum nematode

The disease manifests itself on plants, especially on the leaves, in the form of light areas, then they become dark brown or almost black. The leaves below turn black, dry out and fall off. Flower buds may also be affected. At the same time, they produce ugly inflorescences; the main inflorescences turn brown and dry out. Affected plants lose their decorative properties. The causative agent of the disease is a nematode (Aphelemchoides ritzema bosi). It has the appearance of a thin thread-like worm, invisible to the naked eye. Body length 1 mm, larvae are smaller than adults.

Control measures. Treat the soil with steam or disinfect with formaldehyde. It is necessary to take cuttings from healthy mother plants. Do not plant diseased plants near healthy ones.

Main pests of chrysanthemums

Brown chrysanthemum aphid (Macrosiphoriellachrysanthemi)

This pest damages leaves on the underside, then they turn yellow, the flowers fall off, the buds do not open. Aphids are carriers of viral diseases.

Control measures. Spray the plants with Confidor, Mospilan, Actellik and the biological product Fitoverm. You can also treat them with infusions of tobacco, yarrow, and hot pepper.

Spider mite (TetranichusurticaeKoch)

Mite affects chrysanthemums in greenhouses. Damaged plants are distinguished by a pale yellow color of the leaves; solid whitish spots form on them. The development of the pest is promoted heat+29-31 °C and low humidity air.

Thrips tabaci

When damaged by thrips White or yellowish and later brown spots appear on the leaves, the leaves are distorted. Very often inflorescences are affected, and their decorative value is reduced.

Control measures. Spraying plants with Derris, Intavir, Bi-58 and Actellik.

Slobbery Penny (Philacmusspumarius)

The second name for this pest is leafhopper. In the spring, larvae emerge from overwintered eggs, which live on the leaves and shoots of plants under the cover of a foamy mass. Most often, slobbering pennies are found in greenhouses on rooted cuttings. It feeds on plant sap, causing with its injections the formation of small yellow spots on the leaves and deformation of the inflorescences.

Control measures. It is necessary to spray the plants with insecticides (Fitoverm, Fufan, Confidor).

May beetle larvae

Chrysanthemums are also damaged by the larvae of the cockchafer. They eat plant roots, which causes plants to die.

Control measures. The soil is treated with the Bazudin insecticide.