All phalaenopsis are elyphites. They grow in nature on large trees, stumps of plants as support. The flower has one stem and no branching. Its height reaches 10-100 cm. The leaves of the orchid grow slowly, as does the stem. Only a few green leaves may appear in a year. They are formed during the flowering period. It lasts 3 months. The upper buds bloom first, while the lower ones are still forming.

How do diseases differ from pest infestations?

Reference. Phalaenopsis diseases are a common phenomenon, the main cause of which is improper care. Diseases can be fungal, viral, and rot is also common.

Each of them has its own symptoms, which make it possible to distinguish them from. Most often, when a flower is affected by a disease, the leaves almost instantly darken, dry out and fall off (you can learn more about leaf diseases). And when the plant is visited by insects, this whole process occurs gradually: the leaves become stained, slowly wither and only then fall off. This allows the grower to react in time and save the flower.

The most common diseases of phalaenopsis include:

What are the reasons?

The following reasons can affect the development of the disease in an orchid:

• Violation of the light regime. Phalaenopsis is a shade-tolerant type of orchid. They feel comfortable on window sills facing north.

  Note! The sun's rays are dangerous for them and if they penetrate directly onto the leaves, thermal burns can develop. They do not cause significant harm to the plant, but leave behind unsightly spots.

• Incorrect watering. The orchid prefers high humidity, but reacts negatively to constant watering. As a result, rot and leaf loss may occur.
• Low temperature. At home, an orchid has little chance of freezing. Most often this happens while transporting it from a store or moving. The affected areas become covered with white spots and die. A similar effect can occur when spraying a plant at low temperatures and as a result poor ventilation.

How to determine what happened?

The difficulty in making a correct diagnosis is that some external signs are similar to symptoms of pest influence. So To make a final diagnosis, you will have to carefully examine the flower.

If not only symptoms of damage were found on it, but also insects, then most likely they are the cause of the problem. In addition, you need to know the main symptoms of common orchid diseases. Then it will be possible to understand for sure whether it is a pest or a disease.

What parts of the plant spoil?

Most often, damage is caused to the leaves, roots and stem of the plant. The leaf blade begins to turn yellow, wither and dry out. The stem becomes darker and rots. The root system is most often affected by rot, as a result of which its roots rot and die (read about how to care for orchid roots).

Characteristics of problems, photos and treatment

Check out the photographs of each disease and its description.

This fungal disease, which is formed due to high humidity and stagnant water. As a result, burns form on the leaves of the plant.

To combat the disease, it is necessary to remove all affected areas to healthy tissue, and then sprinkle them with ash. If the damage is widespread, then the plant will have to be completely treated with Mikosan. Place the orchid in a dry room and constantly drain the water from the pan.

The main reason for the development of the disease is errors in care. The damage is caused to the leaves of the plant.

To combat the disease, cut off diseased areas and sprinkle the cut areas with activated carbon powder. For disinfection, you can use a 20% alcohol solution. If the lesion is too extensive, use Mikosan, Skor or Ridomil.

High humidity and temperature can affect this disease. The disease can be recognized by a whitish coating on the leaves.

When the first signs are detected, water the orchid thoroughly, and after 2 hours treat it with a solution of colloidal sulfur using a spray bottle. You can also use Fitosporin. Spray the leaves with it 3-4 times with an interval of 10 days.

You can use folk remedies, for example, a soap-soda solution. To prepare it, take 25 g of soda, 5 g of liquid soap, 5 liters of hot water. First, dissolve baking soda in water, and only then add soap. As soon as the solution has cooled, spray once every 7-10 days.

This disease affects orchid leaves, which become sticky (read about sticky leaves on phalaenopsis). The resulting black coating prevents the leaves from receiving sunlight in the required amount, so the plant weakens.

For treatment, the drug Mikosan, Ridomil, Topsin-M, Skor is used. Folk remedies are powerless here.

Black

It is one of the most common. The first manifestations of the disease are observed 12 hours after the lesion. Young shoots are most often affected. They turn black and become covered with a sticky coating.

Important! If black rot is detected, it is necessary to isolate the diseased plant from the healthy one.

The harmful fungus is transmitted through contact, so treatment is difficult. Its essence is that you need to remove the affected areas, and treat the cut areas with cinnamon or sulfur. After they dry, treat them with a fungicide.

Watch a video on how to cure Phalaenopsis from a fungal infection on the neck:

Root

This is a bacterial disease that forms at high humidity and temperature. The orchid's roots begin to darken and rot. The leaves acquire a specific brown tint.

Resuscitation of roots should begin by treating the plant with a fungicide solution and removing the affected areas. The soil is also treated. To do this, use Fundazol or Topsin. Process at least 3 times with an interval of 2 weeks.

We talked about the treatment of this root disease, look at what this problem looks like in the photo:

Gray

This the disease is the result of a violation of the rules of care. As gray rot develops, spots appear on flowers. They are dark in color, and then become covered with a gray coating.

Note! If left untreated, the plant will weaken and die.

Treatment boils down to removing the affected areas and treating with fungicides. If after the first treatment there is no positive result, then a similar drug cannot be used, since the gray rot pathogen has acquired resistance to it.

You can find out more about gray and root rot.

Emergency resuscitation at home

What it is?

Urgent resuscitation is a therapeutic measure that allows you to save plants in a short time and prevent orchids.

When is it required?

On a note. The main sign by which one can understand that a flower will soon die is the presence of dry and limp leaves and a dried out peduncle.

If 1-2 leaves have dried at the bottom, then this is normal. But when this process is extended throughout sheet plate, urgent action needs to be taken. Help your orchid if it is sick and save it from death.

How to save?

Here detailed plan on how to revive an orchid yourself:

1. Wash the roots and remove the affected ones.
2. Prepare a container, pour expanded clay onto the bottom, and carefully steamed and cleaned sphagnum moss on top.
3. Moisten the mixture thoroughly.
4. Place a rosette of leaves and until the plant grows roots 3-5 cm long, keep it under cover.
5. To resuscitate orchids, you must follow following conditions: temperature 22-28 degrees, humidity – 70-100%. Lighting should be 12-14 hours a day.

In order for the orchid to bloom for a long time and delight with bright colors, and for the disease to never strike it, the gardener will have to observe the following preventive measures:

Phalaenopsis is a species of orchid that complete care disease resistant. But there is no need to relax. The florist should regularly inspect the plant, and if any deviations are detected, begin treatment immediately.

Today, buying an orchid is not a problem, the problem is finding competent information about its further maintenance in home culture. The main and accessible “source of knowledge” for almost everyone is the Internet. Having registered on the first flower forum we come across, we read reviews and advice from the same amateurs as ourselves, and we can only determine whose advice is correct and whose is wrong only over time based on our own mistakes. As a rule, orchid diseases occur due to improper care and the leaves of plants signal us about this first of all.

Let's look at some diseases of orchids and bugs due to improper care.

1.Orchid diseases due to improper lighting. Burns.

Probably the most important role in growing indoor flowers in an apartment is played by lighting. Orchid diseases very often arise precisely because of improperly selected lighting. Orchids are divided into two groups: shade-tolerant and light-loving.

Our first mistake is that when buying an orchid, we don’t think about which group the plant we like belongs to and whether we can provide it with proper lighting at home. Light-loving orchids include Vandas, Cattleyas, Lelias, Cymbidiums, Angrecums and many others, as well as all hybrids based on the listed species. In a light-loving orchid, due to lack of light, new leaves become smaller, weak, deformed growths develop, which will not form a full-fledged, healthy bulb and, accordingly, will not please with their flowering in the future. Phalaenopsis and Cambria, on the contrary, can be grown on northern and north-eastern windows.

Photo No. 1 Weak, elongated growths. Conclusion - not enough light.

Moreover, in orchids that have variegated forms, the color fades over time, and no matter how hard you feed and water it, sooner or later the orchid will lose its healthy appearance and will soon die. Due to lack of lighting, plants become more vulnerable and are more easily susceptible to diseases.

In turn, I would like to draw your attention to the fact that a light-loving plant does not mean that it can tolerate direct sunlight. You need to start accustoming your orchid to the spring sun gradually. In March, orchids on southern and south-eastern windows need to be shaded in the first half of the day, otherwise, after cloudy winter days, plants that are not accustomed to the bright sun will receive severe burns. Over time, the plant will adapt to brighter sun and will not need additional shading; it will be enough to lower the curtain only at noon.

Photo No. 2. Consequence of a burn. Even a sun-loving plant like Vanda may experience burns if the plant is not used to being in the midday sun.

Photo No. 3. General picture of burns on the Vanda orchid.

As we already discussed above, without a sufficient amount of light, plants cannot develop normally, so most gardeners install additional artificial lighting. If you choose the wrong height between the lamp and the plant (at least from the last growing leaf, the height should be 20-30 cm), then literally the next day the orchids will receive thermal burns. In addition, incandescent lamps emit heat, which, especially in the hot season, negatively affects the development of orchids. Thermal burns will dry out in the future and will not particularly harm the plant, but the burn stains will remain. Therefore, for such purposes, it is necessary to choose new generation lamps and maintain the height of the lamp placement.

Photo No. 4. Thermal burn (from touching a fluorescent lamp)

A burn should not be confused with a tan; a tan will not harm the plant, but it is a signal that the plant should be shaded, because A tan may be followed by a burn.

Photo No. 5. Tanning on Cattleya's bulb.

Orchids are not sprayed in the sun, because... droplets of water can act as a lens and the plant will receive pinpoint burns.

Photo No. 6. Burns on Phalaenopsis flowers.

2. The main mistakes when watering and their subsequent diseases.

Each genus and type of orchid requires special watering rules. But I would like to draw your attention to the fact that each apartment has its own microclimate, so no one can give definite advice on what order to water. You need to find a middle ground in your own conditions and try to understand the plant: when it needs to be watered, and when to refrain from watering.
Due to excessive watering, the plant suffers more than from untimely watering. If the orchid for some reason long time was not watered, then it is easier to water it than to regrow rotted roots due to frequent watering.

Photo No. 7. Consequences of excessive watering of Lycaste.

Due to excess moisture, the bulb rotted and the rot spread to the young growths. In this case, the bulb is soft to the touch, so the plant can be thrown away entirely; the growth cannot be saved.

Photo No. 8. This is what a Bulbophyllum leaf that has fallen off due to excessive watering looks like.

Photo No. 9. Rotten root of Phalaenopsis (Phalaenopsis).

The main rule in caring for Phalaenopsis is that the roots must dry out between waterings.

Photo No. 10. Leaves lose turgor and fall off due to rotted roots.

This is what the leaves of Paphiopedilum look like due to unregulated watering. This type it categorically cannot withstand complete drying of the roots and the lost turgor of the leaves, unfortunately, does not restore.

Photo No. 10.a. Damage to Paphiopedilum tissue due to improper watering.

There are types of orchids that prefer high humidity, but in no case should air humidity be confused with frequent watering. If we do not increase the air humidity in the room, but increase the frequency of watering, then in a maximum of a month we will see the following picture.

Photo No. 11. Low humidity indoors and frequent watering has led to the leaves losing turgor and gradually dying off in favor of the plant itself.

Some types of orchids in summer time years react quite painfully to untimely watering. The leaves seem to become dehydrated and wither, lose turgor, eventually dropping the bottom row one by one. Therefore, during the hot season, you need to ensure timely watering and high humidity in the room where the orchids are located. At high temperatures and humidity, there must be good air ventilation. It is advisable to turn on the fan during the hottest hours of the day (from 12.00 to 15.00) and ventilate the room well.

Photo No. 12. Lack of moisture, Cattleya leaves lose turgor.

3. Edema.

In nature, there is such a thing as edema. Orchid diseases such as swelling appear due to prolonged contact with water. For example, they soaked a plant while watering it and accidentally forgot about it for a day. A very important factor is the temperature of the room in which the plants are located. If the temperature drops to +15/+17C, then watering at such temperatures is reduced, because at low temperatures it is easier to get bacterial and fungal diseases. If the room is cool, then after abundant watering the plant can also get swelling and other orchid diseases. It is important to know that in the cool season (autumn, winter, early spring) we reduce watering and do not place plants on a cold windowsill. If wet spots appear, they urgently need to be removed, because they grow very quickly and the entire plant as a whole can rot.

Photo No. 13. Swelling of Phalaenopsis leaves due to prolonged contact with water.

Photo No. 14. Spot swelling on Phalaenopsis leaves due to unregulated watering.

Photo No. 15. Results of improper watering in the cold season of Aerangis.

Photo No. 16. The results of frequent watering of the Vanilla orchid in the cold season.

4.Problems due to low temperatures.

During the cold season, it is advisable to refrain from purchasing orchids or to pack them carefully during transportation, otherwise the plant will get frostbite and the spots will have to be cut down to living tissue, because they cannot be restored.

Photo No. 17. Phalaenopsis frostbite.

Photo No. 18. Frostbite of Phalaenopsis in the cold season when the room is ventilated.

Orchids are not sprayed in the cool season, when the room temperature is low and air ventilation is poor. This may cause the appearance of dark spots fungal origin.

Photo No. 19. Consequence of spraying in the cool season.

5. Fungal diseases of orchids.

Often when buying an orchid, we can see barely noticeable “tubercles”. They can be located both on the leaves and on the trunk (neck) of the plant. Most often this is a Phalaenopsis disease. Each tubercle contains small myceliums containing a microfungus invisible to the naked eye. It is better not to open such tubercles so that invisible fungal spores do not scatter throughout the entire collection of orchids that are located in the room with the source of the mycelium carrier. You can play it safe and treat the tubercles with a fungicide, or you can cut the leaf and lose the problem forever.

Photo No. 20. Mycelium tubercles on Phalaenopsis leaves.

Photo No. 21. Mycelium.

6.Virus.

Orchids, like people, suffer from viral diseases. Plants with viral diseases are disposed of. Unfortunately, the orchid does not tolerate diseases such as the virus - there are no treatment methods. The virus can hide for a long time and not manifest itself in any way, but during watering (in a common basin) it can settle on all orchids that were directly involved in watering. The virus is also transmitted when plants are processed with sharp instruments. If the virus develops favorable conditions, it will become active and then it will “dance” throughout the entire collection and all plants without exception will need to be destroyed. A fertile ground for a virus outbreak is any stress, for example, a sharp decrease (increase) in temperature or moving to a new room with radically different environmental conditions (temperature, humidity, etc.). If you notice that a plant suspected of having a virus has appeared in your collection, it must be immediately isolated from others and treated with at least an antibiotic wide range action and then any fungicide. Sometimes the virus does not manifest itself at all and can only be detected after the plant has flourished. The color and shape of the flower will differ from the norm.

Photo No. 22. The virus has a ring shape (in the form of a spot).

Photo No. 23. The photo shows a Phalaenopsis leaf infected with a virus.

Photo No. 24. The photo shows a Phalaenopsis leaf infected with a virus, on which a fungus has settled on top.

7.Natural aging of orchids.

If you notice that the bottom leaf of an orchid is turning yellow, then you should not panic; you need to observe the plant for a while. Sometimes the death of the lower row of leaves is normal, because... each plant has its own life cycle, incl. for an orchid, disease has nothing to do with it. New ones will grow to replace those that have fallen away.

Photo No. 25. Natural aging of a Phalaenopsis leaf.

With natural wilting, the leaf begins to die not from the neck of the plant, but almost from the edge of the leaf. Gradually the yellowness moves along the leaf to the base (neck), dries out and falls off. You don’t need to remove the leaf yourself; you need to wait for the leaf to dry out and fall off.

Photo No. 26. The beginning of the process of dying of the lower leaf.

In Phalaenopsis, leaf death is often observed due to young roots that have hatched; they seem to push out the leaf and form in their place.

Photo No. 27. The root breaks through the leaf and subsequently the leaf will dry out.

8.Orchid. The disease is neck rot.

Rot from inside the neck of an orchid is a rather insidious thing. No matter how you turn the plant, you won’t see rot. The reason is that the putrefactive process is located in the tissues of the plant inside the neck itself. After some time, we observe the following picture: the leaves begin to turn yellow from the neck and fall off, then the orchid disassembles like a construction set. Unfortunately, in this situation it is not possible to help the plant. Rot can begin to develop for several reasons: frequent watering, prolonged contact of the orchid roots with water, the roots do not dry out between waterings, watering at low room temperatures.

Photo No. 28. Phalaenopsis neck rot (top view).

Photo No. 29. Phalaenopsis neck rot (side view).

Photo No. 30. Consequences of Phalaenopsis neck rot.

9. Overdose of fertilizer and poor water quality.

Using the example of Eurychone rothschildiana (photo No. 31), it is clear that the plant is healthy, it is comfortable, it is successfully developing, growing roots (the tips of the roots are green). After treating a plant with fertilizers with an incorrectly selected dosage (this applies to any fertilizer without exception), inhibition begins in the development process. The roots “pupate” and stop growing, the leaves lose turgor and wither. The plant goes into stupor. Lack of root growth may indicate an incorrectly selected fertilizer concentration. Recommendations for use are often described in detail specifically for capricious beauties - orchids - use this information.

Dead root tips (photo no. 32) are the first signs to sound the alarm. The leaves do not just turn yellow, but have a brownish tint, which indicates that the roots were burned during the feeding process. If measures are not taken in time, the plant may die. In this case, first of all, you need to give all plants once a week hot shower. The shower helps flush out accumulated salts in the substrate and also tones the growth of orchids, simulating the warm torrential downpours of their natural habitat.

Photo No. 31. Eurychone rothschildiana healthy growth process.

Photo No. 32. Eurychone rothschildiana is on the verge of extinction.

10. Why is poor indoor air ventilation dangerous for orchids?

One of the main factors in the absence of disease in orchids in indoor culture is air ventilation. Everyone knows that in natural environment habitats: epiphytes live high in trees, blown by the winds. Most of them grow in tropical and equatorial regions. At the equator it is constantly warm and humid, and it rains very often. In nature there are morning dews and fogs. Orchids are accustomed to humid climates. At home, we try to get as close as possible to natural conditions (raise air humidity, increase the temperature to the desired level, arrange a warm shower, simulating tropical downpours), but we forget about the most important thing - air aeration. In the warm season, our apartments and loggias heat up to high temperatures. Spraying your " winter Garden“, we increase the air humidity and leave for work with a fulfilled sense of duty. What is happening indoors at this time? At high temperatures and humidity, there is a possibility of orchid diseases - fungal and bacterial diseases. At bacterial diseases Watery spots appear (photo No. 33), which spread very quickly throughout the plant, in some cases the plant dies within a few days.

Photo No. 33. Wet rot on a young Phalaenopsis leaf.

As a rule, there are no special drugs; broad-spectrum antibiotics help.
Also, high temperatures make it difficult for the plant to breathe, which is especially felt by the root system. Orchid roots overheat and are not able to work at full capacity. The plant does not receive the required amount of moisture and begins to lose turgor (photo No. 35). With poor air ventilation and high humidity, moisture after watering or showering can stagnate in the axils of plants (photo No. 34) and stimulate putrefactive processes.
Conclusion. At high temperatures and excess humidity, you need to ventilate the room more often, do not place plants too close to each other, and make sure that moisture does not remain on the leaves for a long time. Plants need to be watered and sprayed only in the first half of the day. If possible, you can install a fan in a room with a large accumulation and crowding of flowers (photo No. 37) and turn it on at least during the hottest hours. This will help avoid many problems and various kinds diseases.

Photo No. 34. Stagnation of moisture during the development of the cover due to poor air ventilation.

Photo No. 35. Root overheating. Leaves lose turgor.

Photo No. 36. During the hottest time, turn on the fan and ventilate the room.

Good luck! And let your orchid not know the disease, but only delight you with its beautiful flowering!

We are very grateful to the Kyiv Orchid Lovers Club for their help in preparing the material!

The very word “orchid” is fraught with some kind of charm and mystery. Growing it amazing plant at home is a real pleasure, especially when your pet begins to delight you with its truly royal flowers of the most unimaginable colors. But all this is only possible if proper care. The plant is quite unpretentious, but at the same time has its own “character”. Very often you can encounter all sorts of troubles, which is why it is so important to know their treatment.

First of all, it’s worth saying a few words about the proper care of these plants. After all, this is the main factor in preventing various diseases and the key to good flowering.

7 main mistakes in caring for orchids

• Excessive and frequent watering is one of the main reasons why an orchid dies. Strictly follow the recommendations regarding water regime.
• Cold drafts in the room. Remember that they in no way replace ventilation and are not an equivalent concept.
• The air in the apartment is too dry. Orchids are inhabitants where the humidity is close to 100%.
• Hitting direct lines in the summer. The plant must be shaded from the midday heat.
• Wet leaves. Plants should be sprayed and watered in the first half of the day. If you systematically do this in the evening, you will probably provoke diseases of the orchid leaves.
• A heat source is nearby, namely radiators. Most often this leads to damage to the leaves.
• Too much abundant feeding fertilizers. Firstly, you cannot introduce them during the dormant period, and secondly, in any concentration, strictly follow the instructions on the packaging.

To avoid the question of how to save orchids, adhere to these basic principles. Otherwise you may have some difficulties.

Problems associated with care errors

The first way we know that something is wrong with a plant is by the leaves. This is the most important indicator, or at least the most noticeable to us.

The first signal that not everything is in order is a change in the color of the leaves. If they have acquired a yellow tint or turned red, then perhaps the reason is that the sun is too bright. If the new leaves that appear become too dark, then most likely they do not have enough light. A sign of insufficient nutrition can be a change in color intensity, when all the greenery becomes uniformly pale. These changes are not fatal. And if there is no question about how to save orchids, then it is simply necessary to help the plant.

A more serious sign is the leaves wilting or falling off altogether. The first thing to do is to carefully examine the plant for pests. If his appearance is quite healthy, then the reason may lie in dehydration. Surprisingly, but true: the same symptoms can indicate both excess moisture and its lack. When the substrate dries out, the roots of the orchid lose their source of water and, accordingly, cannot supply the leaves with it. And if there is excess moisture, they simply rot and also fail to cope with their function. The result is wilted or falling leaves.

Well, another most common situation is the appearance of black spots. They appear either on the entire surface of the leaf or only on the tips. In the first case, the reason most likely lies in excess sun, and the plant was simply burned, and in the second, it is due to waterlogging and drafts.

Bacterial diseases of orchids and their treatment

This is perhaps the most difficult category of diseases, because when the signs are noticed, as a rule, it is too late to do anything. Specific to orchids is brown spot leaves, phalaenopsis is especially susceptible to it. A leaf affected by this disease first turns yellow and then turns brown. The infected tissue becomes soft and becomes covered with ulcers, from which cell sap comes out. The question arises of how to save orchids with such a disease. The first step is to isolate the diseased plant from the rest. Areas of leaves affected by brown spot are carefully cut out, including healthy tissue. It is best to sprinkle the slices with crushed powder. This measure is effective on initial stage. After all the cuts have dried, the plant should be treated with special preparations (fungicides). For example, “Strobi”, “Vectra”, “Fitosporin”, etc. If the flower is damaged too much, including the bulb, then it will no longer be possible to help it, you will have to throw it away.

In addition to bacterial and fungal diseases, orchids are very often attacked by pests. Let's look at each option in more detail.

Aphid

These are small (from 1 to 4 mm) insects, which, depending on the species, can be green, yellow or black in color. They suck the juice from the plant, so their favorite location is buds, flowers, young leaves and sprouts. In places where they accumulate the most, a honey coating forms, on which dark mold subsequently develops. At the initial stage, the plant should be washed with soapy water, and the buds and flowers affected by insects should be cut off. If the colonies are too large, then insecticides are used, for example, Fitoverm, Inta-Vir. Keep in mind that most often they all require re-processing after a certain period, so read the instructions carefully and follow safety precautions.

Thrips

These are very small flying insects with a yellow or black body. Most often they can be seen with the naked eye. In addition, signs of thrips are silvery spots and stripes on leaves and flowers. Buds affected by insects begin to deform. Their appearance and active reproduction are facilitated by prolonged drought. Therefore, it is so important to know what kind of soil an orchid needs and how to maintain constant moisture in it.

Spider mite

A small insect that most often appears on orchids with soft leaves, for example, Cymbidium. Its active development and rapid reproduction is facilitated by dry indoor air and elevated temperatures. A characteristic sign is the appearance of first pale and then darkening spots, sometimes cobwebs are noticeable. Control and prevention measures are the same. Treat the plant once a week. Do the same if false flare appears.

Shields

This is a very insidious pest. Often its abilities are underestimated, and as a result, it is simply impossible to save the plant. Appearance pests resemble plaques of brown or gray. They suck the juice from the plant, so they are most often found on leathery leaves. The adult female spends its entire life in a motionless state, protected by a waxy scute. This feature is due to the fact that it is difficult to get rid of them. The appearance of scale insects may be the answer to the question of why the orchid dries out. Insects draw juice from the leaves, as a result of which they begin to wither, then turn yellow and eventually fall off.

The main targets of these pests are primarily weakened plants with impaired metabolism, “overfed” with nitrogen fertilizers. It is possible to get rid of scale insects, but it will take some effort. Initially, isolate the affected orchid from other plants. Next, you should wash it with water or a regular soap solution - this will help get rid of young and mobile individuals. There are many folk ways, but is it worth the risk and making the disease worse? Therefore, we recommend using insecticides immediately. Treat the plant carefully; scale insects like to hide in the leaf axils, especially in orchids with sympodial branching.

Mealybug

This is very small insects, which seem to be covered with fluff, reminiscent of cotton wool. They usually settle in the axils of leaves or on their undersides, on pseudobulbs. When large colonies form, the plant stops growing. Wilted leaves can also be a sign of their appearance. Often mealybug You can bring it home with the plant you just purchased. That’s why it’s so important to keep a new orchid, or any other flower, in isolation from others for the first few weeks and observe it. In this case, the advice especially applies to phalaenopsis. Methods for combating mealybugs are similar to those for the appearance of scale insects.

Slugs and snails

Of course, in room conditions they are unlikely to appear. Slugs and snails are a scourge for those who breed and keep orchids in greenhouses and conservatories. These mollusks primarily damage the buds and flower stalks, as well as the tips of the rhizomes of orchids. Prevention of their occurrence is the timely removal of garbage and plant debris from greenhouses. These pests are nocturnal, so when it gets dark, you can try collecting them using a flashlight. But it is best to spread out special anti-slug granules.

The whole secret healthy plant- this is proper care for it. Observing desired temperature and air humidity, choosing correct soil and the location of the plant in the house, by setting a proper watering regime, you will save yourself from many problems.

A magnificent decoration home interior are ornamental plants. Among them, undoubtedly, there will be blooming representatives of the flora, which from different parts of the world end up on the windowsills of city apartments. Thanks to their sophistication and variety of forms, tropical beauties orchids are extremely popular. The most common is the Phalaenopsis orchid. It will delight you with bright, colorful blooms and at the same time it is affordable and easy to care for.

Description

If you decide to purchase a tropical beauty for home cultivation, then the Phalaenopsis orchid will be the best.

Even a novice gardener can cope with this plant. This exotic flower represented by a huge number of varieties. They are distinguished by their relative unpretentiousness. The flower petals of the Phalaenopsis orchid look like the wings of tropical butterflies. They are different in shape and color. They appear on the plant several times a year. The flowering period can last from two to three months. This does not require additional lighting or humidification. The smooth, leathery leaves are green in color. different shades. There are certain growing rules under which plants will develop and bloom normally. Diseases of Phalaenopsis orchids occur when temperature regime, waterlogging and lack of ventilation. Care exotic plant not complicated. However, it differs from the activities that are performed when growing other indoor plants.

Phalaenopsis orchid: diseases, care

Tropical beauty hybrids are specially bred for growing indoors. It will be necessary to maintain a daytime temperature ranging from 20 to 24 degrees Celsius, and a nighttime temperature from 15 to 18 degrees Celsius. Often, room conditions do not allow this parameter to be observed exactly. In this case, it is necessary to achieve a difference in day and night temperatures, which should be at least two or three degrees. Sufficient air humidity is 50 - 70%. Plants are placed on window sills of any light level, protected from drafts and access to cold air.

Particular attention is paid to the soil. The wrong choice can lead to orchid disease. A special composition is used as soil:

• bark substrate - 3 parts;
• sphagnum - 2 parts;
• charcoal - one part.

The orchid pot should provide good soil aeration. It is better to use special transparent plastic pots designed for growing these plants. Proper watering will prevent diseases of home orchids.

Pay special attention to plant nutrition. Excessive fertilization can lead to orchid disease. At home, after purchasing the plant, minimal feeding will be required. Too much fertilizer can cause the plant to not bloom and the leaves may become dull and broken.

Phalaenopsis orchid: diseases and treatment

Houseplants are susceptible to various ailments. Orchids are no exception. Diseases that affect these plants can be divided according to the type of pathogen:

• fungal;
• bacterial;
• viral.

Each of them can attack different parts of the plant. Diseases manifest themselves in the form of: rot, spotting, plaque. Depending on the type of pathogen, certain timely treatment is applied.

Fungal diseases

Diseases of orchids can be provoked by severe waterlogging, violation of temperature and ventilation conditions. In this case, favorable conditions are created for intensive development mushrooms They are a source of disease. Fungal diseases cause root rot.

This disease can lead to the death of the orchid. The root system affected by rot decomposes, and the leaves and stem of the plant dry out completely.

No less dangerous are fungal tracheomycosis. Orchid diseases caused by this pathogen affect the vascular system of the plant. At the same time they gradually turn yellow lower leaves orchids and the lower parts of the stem, neck and roots rot. Growth as a whole stops. The disease is practically incurable and leads to the death of the plant. All kinds of spots cause diseases of orchid leaves. These include: powdery mildew, rust, anthracnose, septoria, stangosporosis, phyllosticosis, cercospora. These diseases also affect flowers.

Fungicides are used to treat fungal diseases. It is advisable to use biological products that are less toxic than chemicals.

Diseases of bacterial origin

Weakened, injured plants are susceptible. Orchid diseases are caused by bacteria that penetrate the tissue. Root rot quickly affects the entire plant. Within a week the plant dies. Bacterial spots affect the leaves of the plant.

Once pathogenic bacteria enter, the disease develops rapidly. Oily spots appear, the diameter of which reaches two centimeters. Disastrous bacterial diseases orchids, and their treatment does not provide special drugs that can prevent them. The use of synthetic antibiotics is proposed. The symptoms of bacterial and fungal diseases are similar. And if it is difficult to accurately determine the nature of the damage to the plant, it is advisable to use fungicides and antibiotics together.

Viral diseases

It is impossible to determine these ailments at home. This requires laboratory tests. Orchid diseases appear in the form of all kinds of spots of various configurations. Exist viral infections, which can cause the plant to suffer for several years. Others cause rapid development of the disease. These infections are practically untreatable. Weakened orchids are the first to be infected. “Care - disease” - this connection is directly related to the condition of the plant. If it is infected with a virus, it can be saved from death by changing the conditions of detention. Very often it is external conditions, and not the condition of the plant itself, are the cause leading to the occurrence of orchid disease, and their treatment must begin, first of all, with the elimination of unfavorable conditions.

Preventive actions

Diseases are easier to prevent than to treat. To favorite plant not moping, you should strictly follow all the rules for caring for him. A strong orchid is less susceptible to infection. New acquisitions are kept in quarantine for a month. If the first signs of the disease appear, the plant is isolated. During the treatment period, it is kept in a dry room and no fertilizer is applied.

Pests

The Phalaenopsis orchid is fabulously beautiful. Diseases and pests plague cultivation of this plant. Unfortunately, there are quite a lot of both. They primarily attack weakened plants. But it often happens that even with good care Pests will appear on tropical beauties surrounded by attention and care. At the same time, the affected orchids are isolated. Diseases and pests can spread to other, uninfected plants. The quarantine will last until complete recovery. When fighting pests, you need to be able to identify them and have information on how to combat them.

Scale insects (Coccidae) and false scale insects

Houseplants are damaged by various pests. Moreover, many of them are equally dangerous for different flower crops. Most often, orchids suffer from scale insects and false scale insects. These pests have the same external characteristics. Most often, orchids are affected by the Palm scale insect.

Oval-shaped pests reach a diameter of one or two millimeters. The scutellum is covered with white waxy hairs. They multiply intensively and cover the plant completely. Scale insects are sucking insects that feed on plant sap. When spread en masse, they can destroy an orchid.

Pest control

To destroy scale insects, special preparations are used. Before using it, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the entire plant from the pest. Carry out wet treatment. After this, the substrate and orchid are sprayed with special preparations. When fighting scale insects, it is recommended to use “Fitoverin”, “Aktelika” or “Aktara”. Processing is carried out strictly according to the instructions included with the preparations. Repeated treatment will be necessary, which is performed after a week or ten days. The treated plant is transplanted into a new pot filled with fresh substrate. As a preventive measure, wipe the leaves at intervals of five days.

Mealybug

One of the types of quite dangerous pests that affects orchids. Diseases and pests require timely treatment. The mealybug looks like a small fluffy oblong lump. The white-bodied insect has long antennae. Its location is difficult to determine. The usual habitat is the leaf axils in the root zone of the orchid.

They feed on the sap of the plant. The lesion is noticed when the plant begins to wither. At the same time, the leaves turn yellow and wither.

Pest control methods

If an insect attack was missed and its presence is noticed after an orchid disease, a thorough examination of the affected parts of the plant is carried out. Dried leaves and roots are removed. The affected areas are treated with water with the addition of laundry soap. Insects are removed with pointed sticks. The substrate is treated with a special preparation "Fitoverm". It is used in accordance with the instructions. Three-time treatment is carried out with a weekly interval. The plant must be quarantined for a month. During this period of time, carefully examine the orchid.

Whitefly

A small white butterfly is an orchid pest. The whitefly and its larvae feed on plant sap. It becomes weakened. As a result, various orchid diseases can occur. Pests move freely. The larvae are located on leaves and roots.

The affected parts of the plant gradually dry out.

Control measures

Inspecting orchids. Places where insect eggs are laid are treated with a solution of laundry soap. To disinfect the substrate, use the drug "Fitoverm".

Spider mites

Among the pests of orchids, mites are considered the most dangerous. They are quite small. They can be identified visually by external signs plant damage. This is the appearance of a silvery coating.

The ticks feed on orchid cell sap. Intensive reproduction of these pests can lead to significant damage to the plant.

Fighting spider mites

Mechanical and chemical methods. First of all, you should manually remove pests from the plant. The flowerpot in which the orchid grows should be washed. It is placed in a container with water. It is also necessary to pay attention to the place in which the flower was located. The substrate is sprayed twice, at weekly intervals, with the Fitoverma solution.

Nematodes: description, control methods

Numerous pests of orchids include roundworms - nematodes. Small worms penetrate the stem and roots. They feed on the juice and nutrients of the orchid. Diseases and pests are interconnected. As a result of the vital activity of nematodes, the plant weakens and is exposed to various diseases. The combined effect of diseases and pests leads to the death of the plant. To eliminate the pest, the substrate is treated. Prepare a solution of the drugs "Dekaris" or "Levimisil" at the rate of 1 tablet per liter of water. The substrate is poured onto them. More effective action involves soaking the entire plant, which is previously removed from the flowerpot, in the prepared solution.

Thrips: detection, methods of elimination

Quite often, pests can be found in purchased plants. The first action after purchase is to detect any unwanted surprises that may be hidden in the substrate. It is not difficult to identify insects. It is necessary to prepare a small container of water for bathing the pots with the plant. Insects that enter the substrate will leave it within ten minutes.

Thrips are tiny black bugs that can move quickly. They live in orchid substrate. Tiny insects infect almost the entire plant. They feed on its juice, as well as young roots and leaves. Timely detection of insects can save the flower. The affected orchid is isolated from other indoor flowers. She is washed thoroughly warm water. Damaged areas are removed, leaving only healthy tissue.

Aphids: places of damage, control methods

Detect this dangerous pest possible with the naked eye. Entire colonies of pests infect almost all parts of the plant. The underside of leaves, buds and flowers, and shoots become discolored when damaged. The plant weakens greatly and stops developing normally. This leads to orchid disease. The entire plant is covered in sticky insect secretions.

If a pest is detected, they are mechanically removed. Severely affected areas of the orchid are removed. After this, spray twice with a weekly interval with special preparations. To destroy aphids, it is recommended to use the following drugs: “Decis”, “Aktelik”, “Fitoverm”.

Today the orchid is not so much rare plant V indoor flower garden. However, it is susceptible to various diseases and requires special care. Unfortunately, it is difficult to find any complete information about the contents of the flower, orchid diseases and their treatment.

Therefore, we tried to cover common problems and difficulties in growing orchids.

Problems with orchid flowering, ways to eliminate them

This indoor plant quite demanding and capricious. Therefore, if you just brought it home after purchasing it and it begins to wither, this is not unusual. You just need to find a suitable place for it and properly care for it.

Orchid doesn't bloom

In order not to worry about the flowering of an orchid, even at the time of purchase you need to clarify what kind of variety it is and what its flowering period is. The fact is that different types flowers bloom in different time . But it happens that the expected flowering does not occur, while the green mass continues to grow. The main reasons for the lack of buds are the following:

• sudden changes in temperature;
• improper watering;
• violation of rest mode;
• lack of light.

Did you know? The most common reason for the lack of flowers on a plant is a lack of light, which is why the plant itself begins to wither. Most varieties of orchids do not do well even in partial shade, but varieties such as Paphiopedilum and Phalaenopsis can bloom in such conditions.

The lack of light is indicated by the color of the leaves: they become bright green, while their natural color is light green. If the leaves turn yellow, this indicates an excess amount of ultraviolet radiation, that is, excess lighting. Control measures: the flower should be placed in a more illuminated place or removed to partial shade.

Another common problem when there is no flowering is root diseases. It's difficult to define. Sometimes, even when the roots rot, the orchid continues to bloom.

But if it hasn’t bloomed for a long time, and everything is fine with the lighting, you should check root system. Most often, it begins to rot due to excessive watering.

In this case, replanting the plant and removing damaged parts of the rhizome will help. Periodic replanting is, in principle, beneficial for its development.

Orchid buds fade

As a rule, in this case the problems turn out to be the same as those described above. But there may be additional reasons. First of all, the orchid reacts very sensitively to a change of place of residence. If you recently bought it and brought it home, it is not surprising that the orchid buds wither and fall off.

Important! Main role Lighting plays a role in this process. It is logical that in the greenhouse it was suitable and sufficient, but in your home it may not be enough or, conversely, there may be too much. Please note that there are shade-loving and light-loving varieties of orchids; this point must be clarified when purchasing a plant. So, on northern and northeastern windows you can grow cambria and phalaenopsis. Angrecums cymbidiums, laelias, cattleyas, vandas and others are considered light-loving.

In addition, there may be problems with hypothermia of orchids. These are very heat-loving plants, so you need to make sure that in winter the temperature in the room does not fall below 22°C. Please note that air humidity must be at least 70%, otherwise the flowers will also begin to fall off.

The orchid loves good air circulation, but does not tolerate drafts. She also reacts sharply to presence of different food products nearby, especially fruits and vegetables that emit ethylene. He provokes accelerated maturation buds that can wither and fall off without even opening.

Another reason for the wilting of buds can be pests. In particular, the mealybug feeds on their juice, leading to the premature death of the bud.

Do not forget that withering and falling of flowers is natural process. The duration of flowering varies among different varieties. Some delight with variegated flowers for several months, others for several weeks. It is likely that you bought the plant after flowering.

Dark spots on flowers

Sometimes they arise not because of diseases, but due to mechanical damage during transportation of the plant. Such spots do not spread throughout the flower, dry out, and have uneven edges.

However, spotting may occur due to moisture getting on the petals during watering or condensation when the plant was transported in packaging. Because of this, flowers can not only become stained, but also fall off.

If the plant is still in the sun, then where water gets on the petals, a burn may occur - the water will act like a lens.

Did you know? A fungal disease can cause brown spots on flowers. In this case, they can deteriorate literally overnight, when the entire plant becomes covered in spots. In this case, the affected leaves and stems will be watery, and a moldy coating may appear on them.

Rot: prevention and treatment

Most often when indoor growing orchids have to deal with rot. Moreover, problems mainly arise due to excessive care.

The plant appears watery, light-colored brown spots on the leaves. Mostly young people. After some time, they darken, grow, gradually merging with each other. Moreover, the lower the temperature environment The more abundant the watering, the faster these processes occur.

If you have just discovered these signs of orchid disease, you can still help it, cutting out the damaged areas with a sharp tool, grabbing some healthy tissue. The cut edges must be treated with a preparation containing copper or crushed coal.

If these manipulations cannot be done, the flower cannot be saved. It is better to get rid of it before the disease spreads to other flowerpots.

Most often, brown bacterial rot affects orchid varieties such as paphiopedilum, cymbidium, cattleya, and phalaenopsis. Prevention of such diseases consists of spraying the plant with a solution copper sulfate once a month.

affects the roots of the plant, which soften and deteriorate. At the same time, the leaves of the plant acquire a brown tint. The cause of these processes is too high air humidity and temperature.

To get rid of the disease, it is necessary to adjust the conditions of the plant, as well as treat the roots and soil with topsin solution (0.2%) or foundationazol solution (0.2%). This must be done three times, maintaining an interval of approximately three weeks. As a rule, to do this, the pot is immersed in a solution.

To prevent the disease, you should use a high-quality substrate for planting, previously disinfected. Most often, orchids of the Paphiopedilum, Miltonia, and Cymbidium varieties need such care.

The orchid is also characterized by a leaf disease such as gray rot . It's easy to determine: Dark islands appear on the leaves, covered with a fluffy gray coating. Gradually, rot moves from the leaves to the soil, then to the flowers, and then to the entire plant. The disease can also start from flowers, covering them with small brown spots.

The disease occurs due to improper care - high air humidity combined with low temperature. But sometimes the cause is excessive use of fertilizers with a high nitrogen content, which reduces the plant’s resistance to this disease.

- this is a fungal disease. Therefore, to combat it, it is necessary to remove damaged areas from the plant, and completely treat with fungicides.

Moreover, if the chosen drug did not help and after some time the signs of the disease appeared again, you need to use another drug. When watering, you should use products that increase the plant's resistance to disease.

Important! Try not to place orchids close to each other or other plants. Then, if gray rot occurs on one plant, the fungal spores will not be able to spread to the neighboring one.

Gray mold most readily “settles” on orchids that bloom with white flowers: cattleyas, cymbidiums, phalaenopsis.

A fungal disease occurs when the flower is kept in too cold a room. Especially if the plant was sick before or survived a pest attack. In this case, spots on the orchid leaves are removed with a sharp and sterile instrument, and the cut edges are treated with Bordeaux mixture or charcoal.
Next, the plant must be transplanted into another pot or into the same one, but pre-sterilized. It is planted in a fresh sterile substrate, and the old one must be disposed of. After transplantation, the necessary conditions are created for the plant.

Frequent patients with a similar diagnosis are orchids of the Cattleya and Paphiopedilum varieties.

If the orchid leaves turn yellow or spots appear on them, you'll probably have to deal with fusarium rot. In this case, the leaves soften, curl, and fungal spores give them a pinkish tint.

The main cause of such diseases is high humidity with poor air circulation. Most often, orchids of the Epidendrum, Miltonia, and Phalaenopsis varieties suffer from this disease if the necessary conditions are not met.

It is recommended as a treatment treating the plant three times a day with a solution of foundationazole (0.2%). Treat all plants carefully, as rot spots may appear on the shoots. At the same time, during the treatment period, you must stop spraying the plant and make sure that it does not stand in drafts.

Leaf diseases: symptoms, prevention and treatment

Orchid diseases can be viral, bacterial or fungal in nature and manifest themselves in completely different ways: in the form of plaque, stains, rot. Accordingly, each disease has its own treatment method.

Important! Almost all orchids lose their color over time, even with proper care. Lack of light weakens the plant's immunity, but the light-loving orchid does not tolerate direct sunlight. Particular care must be taken to accustom the orchid to the spring sun, shading those plants that stand on the south side so that they do not get sunburn. Gradually getting used to the sun, the flowers will require shading only on a hot afternoon.

Most often, this fungal disease affects the leaves of the plant. They appear as tiny but distinct round brown spots that enlarge as they connect with each other. Large affected areas turn black, forming holes. If the plant is sick for a long time, a pink or yellowish coating may appear in these areas.

Causes: stagnant water in the leaf axils and high air humidity.

Treatment begins with trimming the affected areas. Sections must be treated with ash or activated carbon, and the plant itself - with preparations containing copper. Treatment is carried out three times with breaks of ten days. In this case, it is necessary to reduce watering and completely abandon fertilizing.

To prevent the appearance of fungus It is necessary to ensure that the air humidity does not exceed 70% and does not fall below 40%, while regularly and well ventilating the room. Monitor the presence of water in the axils of the leaves and pseudobulbs. If it collects there, remove it in time with a napkin or cloth.

Orchids of the phalaenopsis, paphiopedilum, oncidium, and miltonia varieties are mainly susceptible to this disease.

Phalaenopsis orchids are most susceptible to this disease. First, the leaves of infected plants turn yellow, then darken, then soften and crack. Liquid appears in the resulting ulcers.

To get rid of the disease,such areas are cut out with a sterile and sharp instrument, the sections are treated with iodine or activated carbon. If there are a lot of spots or the lobar vein is damaged, the treatment must be carried out with stronger preparations. If after such procedures there is no relapse within 10 days, then the plant has recovered and is not contagious.

The disease occurs due to too bright lighting in the warm season, excessive use of fertilizers or improper watering.

Fractures in the leaves can cause normal mechanical damage. However, in some cases they indicate insufficient watering of the orchid or its severe hypothermia after watering.

Also pay attention to fertilizers. If they contain too much nitrogen, this can also cause deformation of the plant's leaves: thickening, breaks, cracks, and a change in color to dark green.

To get rid of the problem, it is enough to refuse fertilizer for some time. It is also recommended to wash the roots of the plant and replant it. Please note that after this procedure, the orchid may be delayed in growth for some time - this is a normal process.

This kind of damage usually appears on plants in spring and summer. When solar activity increases. Orchids need light large quantities, but scattered, and direct rays of the sun are, as a rule, destructive for her and cause burns.

Remaining droplets of moisture on the leaves and petals also provoke similar consequences. In this case, water, multiplying the strength of the sun's rays, contributes to the burning of the leaves - discolored areas with a brown edge appear on them. Over time, they dry out, forming holes.

The affected plant must be shaded, paying special attention to watering, but without flooding the flower. Heavily damaged areas must be removed by processing the edges of the cut. It is better not to use fertilizing during this period.

About the appearance powdery mildew speaks white coating on the leaves and buds of the flower. The areas covered with it dry out over time, and the plant itself dies. The disease occurs in conditions of high humidity in combination with high temperature- the so-called greenhouse effect.

As soon as you discover signs of this disease, you should immediately adjust your care and begin treatment. For this the plant is treated with Topsin-M, Skor or a solution of colloidal sulfur.

As a preventive measure the orchid should be sprayed with Fitosporin. This is recommended for all home orchids, since any of them has a risk of contracting powdery mildew.

Relatively rare, but no less dangerous disease. It is also fungal in nature and primarily affects the leaves of the plant.

Moreover, it first affects the lower part of the leaf, forming light spots. Over time, red pads appear on them, in which fungal spores ripen. Please note that the disease appears on the weakest parts of the plant.

To get rid of From him, it is necessary to remove the affected areas, no matter how large they are. Do not forget to disinfect the cut areas with a 20% alcohol solution or activated carbon. Also recommended treat the plant with the preparations “Mikosan”, “Ridomil”, “Skor”, “Topsin-M”.

The plant becomes sick due to the appearance of various pests on it: white scale insects, mealybugs, aphids. Its spores reproduce well in their sweet secretions.

The fungus grows, clogging the stomata of the leaves. As a result, the plant does not receive the required amount of light, weakens and, if left untreated, dies. Treatment consists of treatment with the same drugs: Mikosan, Ridomil, Skor, Topsin-M.

Viral diseases of orchids

Oddly enough, orchids can also suffer from viral diseases. If a similar diagnosis is found in one plant, it must be urgently removed from the others and destroyed. Doesn't exist at all effective methods treating plants against viruses.

The most unpleasant thing is that the virus does not appear in the plant for a long time. This may be indicated by changes in the shape and color of the plant. Remember: if you have several flowerpots and general watering in one container, all plants are infected.
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