When to plant winter garlic? Preparing a bed for garlic. Video - Growing large winter garlic. Mulching garlic in the fall. When to remove mulch from garlic? Buy seed garlic.

In this article I will tell you in detail how I grow very large garlic in the Moscow region using the “Plant and Forget” technology. The name of this technology was not invented by me, but by my good friend from the city of Belgorod. He himself plants garlic in much the same way, and wrote about this last year “Planting Winter Garlic. Mulching with hay and leaves" -

When to plant winter garlic?

In 2016, I planted garlic on October 9th. I usually plant garlic at the very end of October, but the forecast predicted a sharp cold snap, so it’s better to play it safe and plant the garlic early.

Preparing a bed for planting garlic.

Preparing a bed for planting garlic comes down to the following: you need to remove the previous crop, level the ground with a rake, and mulch with a thick layer of grass. There should really be a lot of grass, and the finer the grass is chopped, the better. I use electric or petrol lawnmower on wheels. The volume of freshly cut grass is a whole 120-liter wheelbarrow per 1 sq.m. Work usually takes place at the end of August. At this point, the preparation of the bed is completed and in about a month and a half we plant garlic.

For those who came to the site for the first time, it may be interesting to know the principle itself Andintense natural farming . View the results of using this method on all crops, about this -

Planting winter garlic. Mulching garlic in the fall.

Seed garlic. Moscow region.

Through the mulch I make holes for the garlic, approximately 5-6 cm deep. The distance between the rows is approximately 15 cm, between the holes in the row 13-15 cm.

There will be a video at the end of the article so you can see everything. Next, I lightly sprinkle each hole with soil. Then I take a lawn mower and collect fallen leaves with it, which I use to mulch the garlic after planting. It does not matter which tree the fallen leaves come from, in my case it is Manchurian walnut.

I mulch the garlic bed with leaves, a layer of leaves 15-20 cm.

Winter will pass, a thick layer of snow will compact the leaves well, but the garlic plant is very strong and breaks through the leaves without problems. (Watch the video)

When to remove mulch from garlic?

I hear this question every spring!

Tell me, why did we mulch the garlic? Why were you so tense? In winter, garlic will not freeze without any mulch. Then why did we mulch it?

We mulched the garlic in the fall so that in the summer we would not have to deal with the garlic and not stand in a typical position while weeding.

All! There is no care for garlic, all care comes down to autumn mulching; in the summer there are more important things to do. This is the “set it and forget it” technology.

If suddenly there is intense heat in May, which happens extremely rarely in the Moscow region, you will need to water the garlic.

Why cut off the arrows of garlic?

Spring and June were very cold this year.

July 7, 2017, harvest is very late. Today I just broke off the arrows. This will give an increase in yield, the head of garlic will be larger. I leave a few arrows. Firstly, they can be used to determine whether the garlic is ready for harvesting. Secondly, you can plant garlic with seeds; next year single cloves or small garlic will grow, and this way you can update the variety. The bulbs on my garlic grow large.

A bulb of garlic on a regular notebook sheet in a cage.

I would like to add that this year I do not have a single arrow on my bow. Onions shoot due to improper storage in winter; you can also add onions before planting, for a month at a temperature of 25 -27 degrees, but I don’t have such conditions, so I buy them and plant them right away.

Moscow region garlic.

I hope that I didn’t miss anything, and it became clear to everyone that growing large garlic using the “Plant and Forget” technology is much easier than traditional method, which involves digging, weeding and fertilizing, and I don’t consider breaking arrows to be hard work.

Garlic is the most popular vegetable crop in our area. Not only is it very healthy, but it also has an incredible taste and aroma. Garlic is added to various hot dishes, salads, and preserves. Today, several varieties of the plant are known, so planting can be carried out in different time. Winter garlic , which is easy to grow and care for, is planted on almost everyone. How to get a rich crop harvest, and what mistakes are important to avoid?

Winter garlic, cultivation and care

Winter garlic - growing rules

The growing technology itself is quite simple, so anyone, even a novice summer resident, can master it. The only thing you need to consider is the landing time. If you are late, the rapid development of the cloves will not allow the plant to form a strong and powerful plant. root system. As a result, the crop becomes the owner of a weak root system, begins to grow very slowly and does not please the owners with a good, fertile harvest. Almost the same effect has early boarding. Garlic begins to grow, but severe frosts and insufficient sunlight negatively affect its growth and development.

But first of all, it is important to pay attention to right choice bulbs. The fertility of the crop depends on the quality of the planting material. Therefore, our advice is to buy winter garlic bulbs in trusted places and carefully look at the bottom of the bulb, which should not have a corked crust. It is this that causes retardation of plant growth and development.

Basic rules for growing winter garlic:

1. Properly selected soil. The plant grows well on sandy and loamy soils, which have an average acidity level. If your soil is very acidic, you just need to mix the top layer with ash.
2. Location. Garlic grows well in open areas, without shade. You should not plant it under a tree or bush, as this will only slow down the growth of the crop and lead to its death.
3. Humidity. When planting, you do not need to water the holes with planting material. It is enough if the ground is slightly damp.
4. Neighborhood. Garlic is not picky and will grow near any vegetables or berries. It is often planted next to onions, potatoes, tomatoes, raspberries, gooseberries, etc. Since the pungent smell of garlic drives away various pests, the plant is used as a means to destroy them.

Planting in open ground is carried out in September or October. It is very important to do this on time, since early planting provokes premature growth, and late planting will not allow the plant to take root sufficiently. Before planting, it is necessary to carry out preparatory actions for planting material. What does this include? To begin with, the cloves are calibrated, that is, the most suitable for planting are selected. Small, damaged or diseased ones are removed, leaving only healthy and large ones. After this, you need to disinfect it in a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

The garlic beds are located at a short distance from each other (approximately 25 cm). The planting depth should be sufficient so that the cloves survive until spring and survive the winter. After planting, a necessary step is also mulching, which performs two functions at once - it protects the plant from frost and retains moisture in the ground. If everything is done correctly, the cloves of winter garlic will overwinter normally, while withstanding fairly low temperatures.

Caring for winter garlic

As for care, it is not particularly difficult. The main thing is to follow these tips:

• Periodically loosen the soil and fight weeds.
• Mulch the soil.
• Do not use watering. Garlic will not grow in soil that is too wet, so it is not recommended to water the plant.
• Fertilizer. The food used is organic and only at an early stage.

So, winter garlic, growing and care, cleaning which is not difficult, can be placed on summer cottage everyone who wants it. To do this, you just need to follow our practical and proven advice.

Gardeners grow garlic in their dachas not only because the proximity of this plant is useful for others garden crops, but also to improve your health. Depending on the type of garlic, planting time may vary. Even novice gardeners know that winter and spring garlic are planted at different times, but there are other differences. More details about the cultivation of these two species will be discussed in this article.

Garlic - photo

This light-loving plant is usually grown in a separate bed. Garlic can also be planted densely with other garden crops or berries if there is not enough space on the plot. The plant feels best next to black, and. You can also grow the following next to garlic: flower crops like roses and gladioli. In this case, garlic repels various pests from plants.

Garlic - description, composition

But there are also plants that cannot be planted next to garlic because of its negative impact on these crops. We are talking about legumes and cabbage. But at the same time, cabbage is the best predecessor of garlic, which must be taken into account when choosing a place in the garden. The same can be said about pumpkin crops.

Optimal time for planting

Growing spring garlic involves planting in the first half of April, but during this period the soil is still quite hard, so digging is very difficult. As an option, site preparation for spring varieties occurs in the fall. If we talk about winter varieties of garlic, then they need to be planted in the fall - from the beginning of September to the end of October. The time period is selected in such a way that before the onset of frost the plant has time to acquire a strong root system that will penetrate 9-11 cm into the ground. The plant can overwinter under the snow, and with the onset of warmth, produce a good harvest.

Variety selection

There are many different varieties garlic - both winter and spring - and they all differ from each other in decorative, taste or yield qualities. Let's look at the most common winter varieties in Russia.

Popular spring varieties of garlic include the following.

Growing garlic in spring

As noted earlier, it is advisable to grow garlic in those beds where beans, zucchini, cabbage, and so on used to grow. Gardeners also plant this plant next to certain types of flowers to protect against diseases and pests. The process of growing garlic is not much different from that of any other garden crop, with the exception of some nuances. Every gardener can cope with this; the main thing is to follow some recommendations to create optimal conditions.

Preparing the bed

As practice shows, narrow beds are best suited for growing garlic, regardless of its type or variety. Soil preparation involves adding ash or lime to reduce acidity - such conditions are most suitable for garlic.

On a note! It is also advisable to fertilize the soil with mineral fertilizers or humus. This is done at the rate of 10 g of phosphorus and potassium, 8 kg of humus per 1 m² of bed. You should be careful with fertilizers so as not to harm the plants.

Preparation of planting material

Not everyone prepares garlic before planting, believing that it is a useless process. In fact, this is not so, because soaking the cloves in warm water about 3-4 hours will speed up the growth of the plant. After this, the cloves should be sprinkled with moistened sawdust or moss, and then placed under a radiator or other warm place. After a few days, root rudiments form on the cloves in the form of small formations white. This indicates that the plant is ready for the next stage - planting.

Planting garlic

By selecting suitable variety garlic and having prepared the bed, you can start planting. The process is simple if you follow the instructions below.

Table. Instructions for planting spring garlic.

Steps, photo	Description of actions
	To begin, loosen the bed with a hoe or hoe. There is no need to dig up the bed, since it is prepared in advance - during the period of fertilization.
	Make shallow grooves (about 5-8 cm) at a distance of 30 cm from each other. Deep furrows are needed only when growing winter varieties of garlic, when winter cold may harm the plant.
	Carefully plant the garlic cloves, deepening them into the soil with the sprouts down about halfway. The distance between the cloves is 3-5 cm. Since the cloves of spring garlic are much smaller compared to winter varieties, it is not advisable to plant it very rarely.
	Fill the grooves with planted garlic using a hoe. It's okay if a little mulch or dry grass gets in with the soil. There is no need to compact the bed after planting, otherwise the plant may not sprout.
	This is what a bed with spring garlic planted looks like. At the end, you can walk through the soil with a rake. If you are planting large cloves of garlic, then you need to plant them at a greater distance - up to 10 cm. Now you just have to wait for the harvest.

Aftercare

Planting alone will not be enough to produce a rich harvest of garlic. Needed proper care, which is based on regular feeding, watering and loosening the soil. Gardeners will also have to face problems such as garlic pests (although there are very few of them) and diseases.

Top dressing

The first fertilizing should be carried out immediately after emergence. To do this, it is best to use nitrogen fertilizers such as mullein or complex fertilizer called "Fertika", which can be purchased at any gardening store. After 14 days, fertilizing should be repeated. During the entire period, you need to feed garlic no more than 4 times. Excess fertilizer can have a negative effect on plants, so you need to be careful with this - do not overdo it.

Watering

You need to water the garlic regularly, not allowing the soil to dry out. If the weather is dry, then you need to water abundantly, approximately 11 liters per 1 m². In case of frequent rains, it is advisable to avoid watering, because waterlogging can cause rotting of the root system. As the head increases in size and weight, watering gradually stops. As a rule, this happens in early August.

Common diseases and pests

If you previously grew onions, then there should be no special problems with garlic, because both of these crops are subject to the same diseases. As a rule, these are tracheomycosis, powdery mildew, helminthosporiosis and different types rot (gray and white).

Speaking about pests of garlic, it is worth mentioning the centipede, mole cricket, sprout fly, cabbage cutworm, tobacco thrips, and so on. There are many pests, but this does not mean that they all constantly attack plants. The best prevention against various ailments is compliance with the basic requirements (treating the plant, or more precisely, the storage location, with a bleach solution, replanting the crop in its original place after at least 3 years). There are also a lot various drugs against garlic diseases - “Maxim”, “Fitosporin-M”, potassium permanganate solution and others. You can get rid of pests using various folk remedies, including ammonium sulfate, tobacco infusion and other equally effective compounds.

Yellowed leaves (about 70% of the surface) indicate that the garlic is ripe and can be harvested. Just make sure that at least 100 days pass from emergence to harvest. Otherwise, you may experience that the garlic will not store well. As a rule, gardeners begin harvesting spring garlic in the first half of September.

On a note! To check ripeness, you need to dig up a few heads of garlic - they should not hold the cloves. Also, the film that covers the cloves should come off easily. If fresh garlic meets all these requirements, then it can be harvested.

Harvesting is carried out as follows: using a shovel, garlic is dug up and pulled out of the ground by the tops, after which the plant must be dried under the sun, carefully laid out in rows. Clean the garlic from dirt after drying, and then place it in a well-ventilated and lighted area for storage. After 6-7 days you need to trim the tops and roots. Only after this is garlic eaten.

This process is similar, except perhaps for the time of planting and, accordingly, harvesting. But still, there are certain nuances that should not be forgotten if you want to get a rich harvest.

Winter garlic, first of all, is too demanding on the soil, so only nutritious sandy loam soil is suitable for planting. In rare cases, it is necessary to add a little sand to the soil. If the soil fertility is insufficient, it is necessary to apply several buckets of fertilizer. Rotted manure or aged compost will do.

If you live in harsh, cold regions, then when growing garlic you should protect the plant from inevitable freezing. For this purpose, you can use a small layer of leaves or peat. With the onset of spring warmth, this layer will serve as an additional source of nutrition for the plant, and will also prevent the occurrence of weeds and diseases. Caring for winter varieties of garlic is no different from caring for spring crops. This applies to fertilizing, watering and mulching. Diseases in winter period much less, as well as pests, so in this regard, gardeners can be calm.

Video - Growing garlic (2 methods)

Many young people who have decided to master the wisdom of growing garden crops are wondering how to grow garlic correctly? To get a good garlic harvest, as well as stock up on planting material for the next season, you need to know many of the nuances and subtleties of growing and caring for this plant. Agricultural technology for cultivating garlic includes several important stages: preparation for planting, disembarkation, care, cleaning and storage. Each of these stages has its own fundamental rules. Following them will allow you to grow healthy garlic and harvest big harvest, which is useful for cooking and will not be superfluous for medicinal purposes.

Growing Garlic Is an Easy Job

general information

The agricultural technology of garlic depends on the cultivation characteristics of this herbaceous plant, primarily from its appearance. Depending on the type, they distinguish between winter and spring. Depending on the variety, one of the following may be used. three ways landings:

• onion cloves;
• single-pronged bulbs, after their germination from aerial bulbs;
• aerial bulbs (bulbs).

Winter garlic is preferably planted in the fall.

The third method is suitable and effective for winter varieties. Spring varieties and some winter varieties are grown only with the help of cloves. The planting method determines the optimal time period for the procedures. Since planting with cloves leads to a low percentage of rooting after wintering, best option- sowing in spring. Winter garlic can be grown after planting in autumn and spring.

Spring garlic is planted only in spring

There are varieties that produce a high-quality harvest regardless of the time period of planting. In practice, the type of garlic determines the time of planting: winter - in the fall, spring - in the spring.

Rocambole garlic is gigantic in size.

The main requirement of winter garlic agricultural technology is the creation favorable conditions for wintering. These conditions include:

1. The quality of the soil and the place chosen for the garlic bed.
2. Features of the climate in the landing region.
3. Compliance with planting deadlines.
4. Perform sowing correctly and in accordance with requirements.

As a planting site, it is necessary to choose well-lit areas of the garden, protected from flooding in the fall and in early spring. The soil must be fertile and saturated with oxygen (for this it is very important to loosen it in a timely manner). Before sowing, the bed must be dug up, leveled and cleared of weeds. Plowing or digging the soil must be done in advance so that the soil settles by the time of planting.

Planting cloves in prepared soil

Humus and mineral fertilizers are used as fertilizer.

To grow garlic in open ground carried out qualitatively for 10 square meters of beds it is necessary:

• humus – up to 40 kg;
• ammonium nitrate– 3.5 grams (applied only during spring fertilization);
• superphosphate – 5 grams;
• potassium chloride - about 2 grams.

Particular attention must be paid seed material. The cloves must have intact skin, no bruises or soft areas. The size should be large or medium. If your own seed is used, selection is made by sorting and screening after harvesting.

Disinfection before planting in potassium permanganate

Selected cloves are treated with a 1% solution before planting. copper sulfate to increase immunity. The garlic cloves are kept in it for about 15 minutes.

Landing: terms and rules

In autumn, garlic is planted 15-20 days before the onset of a period with stable low temperatures and frosts, that is, quite late. Most often this period falls in early to mid-October. If planting is done early, the garlic has time to germinate before the onset of cold weather. In this case, hilling and mulching (a layer of straw or hay 5 cm thick) is used to preserve the plant. In this case, it is necessary to harrow in the spring to free the neck for free and full growth.

Delay in timing leads to a large percentage of the death of garlic, as it does not have time to take root.

Seedlings from bulblets will allow you to grow high-quality one-toothed plants

Bulbs are planted in autumn or spring. Planting with aerial bulbs in the fall will cause the garlic to sprout shoots in the summer. Spring planting does not give such a result, it produces one-toothed bulbs. Single-pronged bulbs are planted in the fall, as they do not survive until spring.

Spring varieties are planted in early spring, as soon as the snow melts from the beds. Early deadline due to the fact that garlic initial stages Rooting is very demanding on moist soil and moderate temperatures.

With more late sowing In spring, garlic produces a lower quality and quantity harvest. The quality of the harvest is greatly influenced by the level of literacy in storing planting material in winter. So, if it is stored at average temperatures from 0 to 5 degrees above zero, then single-toothed bulbs will partially grow.

Tape planting is the most convenient to maintain

Garlic is planted in rows. With such a system, the following rules are adhered to:

• free space between rows – about 25 cm;
• the distance between plants in a row is about 6 cm, but it all depends on the size of the planting material;
• the depth of planting in the soil, regardless of time, should not be less than 3 cm;
• depth of planting in the soil in autumn: for large cloves - 6 cm, for medium cloves - from 4 cm.
• the depth of planting in the soil in spring is 5 cm.

Garlic grows well in combined plantings

A few days before planting the bulbs, they are divided into cloves. Early division leads to a decrease in the level of survival and germination. Successful cultivation garlic in open ground depends on maintaining distances when planting and competent preparation soil.

Garlic shoots in spring

Care

Caring for garlic includes an important component - feeding. After the snow has melted on the site and the water has drained, it is important to feed it with nitrogen-containing substances. The most commonly used is urea. The solution is prepared at the rate of: 10 liters of water, 1 tablespoon of urea. In April, it is advisable to carry out 2 feedings: at the beginning of the month with nitrogen-containing substances (a solution of 10 liters of water, 0.5 liters of chicken manure and 1 tablespoon of nitroammophosphate), and in the middle of the month with phosphorus-containing fertilizers (a solution of 10 liters of water, 1 tablespoon of superphosphate, 1 tablespoon potassium sulfate). The next day after fertilizing, you need to loosen the soil between the rows. It is advisable to carry out loosening after rains or watering, so that the soil is saturated with oxygen, which is important for the plant.

Fertilizer for garlic will increase the yield

During periods of no precipitation, watering should be carried out 1-2 times in 5-7 days, depending on the temperature and level of drying of the soil. Watering should be plentiful. Mulching between rows helps maintain soil looseness and moisture.

If you want to grow large bulbs, you need to break out the arrows when they grow to a height of 10-15 cm.

The arrow cannot be pulled up; it must be carefully cut off or broken out. Such actions will avoid damage to the bulb and roots. Breaking out is carried out in a place as close as possible to the base. Removal measures allow all the plant's nutrients to be directed to the formation of the bulb, which speeds up the ripening process.

Broken arrows can be used for cooking

Harvest

The time to harvest garlic depends on the time of planting. Winter garlic ripens earlier than spring garlic planted in spring. The main sign of ripening is that the leaves gradually acquire yellow. This usually happens at the end of July. But such yellowing processes can be a consequence of a disease or unfavorable conditions growing. In this case, it is worth using several more methods for determining the ripeness of garlic. To do this, it is worth leaving a few arrows. As soon as it straightens, you should start harvesting.

The ripening of bulbs is a signal for harvesting

While the garlic is not ripe, the arrow will curl and bend. In addition, you can determine ripeness by the bulbs; if they begin to crack, it’s time to dig up the bulbs.

It is important not to delay harvesting. Early cleaning will not lead to undesirable consequences. In this case, the bulbs are laid out in a well-ventilated place, protected from direct sunlight and moisture, so that it ripens completely. You shouldn’t pick off the leaves right away. The nutrients from them will go into the bulbs. If harvesting starts a few days later, the garlic may become overripe. This means that the skin of the bulbs will become weak, crack, and the cloves will crumble and remain in the ground. Such garlic cannot be preserved for a long time.

Garlic needs to be dug up, not pulled out. Pulling out can lead to destruction of the bulb shell and scattering of cloves, and some of them may remain in the soil, especially if the garlic is overripe. When digging, it is best to use special small shovels or forks.

Harvesting garlic

Storage

To obtain high-quality planting material, you should not remove all the arrows. The specially left garlic with arrows is not removed along with the rest of the plants; it is left in the garden for another 8-15 days. After such “exposure”, the inflorescence is carefully cut off. Cut arrows with bulbs are tied into bunches and hung in a ventilated place to dry. It must be protected from sun and rain. Drying lasts up to 30 days. During this time, the air bulbs are finally formed. They are then cleaned and sorted by size. After this you can do autumn planting. If planting is planned for spring, then it is worth leaving the material in bunches until the period of use.

Ripening garlic will increase its shelf life

Optimal storage conditions are dark and cool.

After harvesting, garlic for human consumption is dried, selected and sorted. Drying is carried out in a ventilated place, protected from the sun and moisture. Selection and sorting allows you to remove diseased and damaged bulbs, which will reduce the likelihood of rotting and fungal damage during storage. The bulbs must be intact and not have cloves with damaged skin.

Garlic is sorted into groups by size, divided into large, medium and small. Material for planting is immediately selected.

Optimal temperature regime for storage at home - plus 18 degrees. For better preservation, it is better to use “breathable” material – mesh bags, carton boxes and other containers with holes.

16.02.2018

Everything about proper cultivation spring and winter garlic in open ground, what to do if it turns yellow in the spring, what to water and how to feed you will learn from this guide. The information will be especially useful for beginners, and will also be useful for experienced gardeners. Growing garlic usually does not cause big problems and yet for good harvest It is necessary to comply with the rules of planting, care and feeding.

What is the difference between spring garlic and winter garlic?

Gardeners know that there are winter and spring garlic, and you will see the differences between them in the table and photo:

Spring garlic	Winter garlic
There are more cloves - from 12 to 30 pieces, but they are smaller	An arrow sticks out in the middle of the bottom, which is surrounded by 4-12 large cloves
The bulbs are smaller in size and have more scales.	Bulbs and cloves are larger and more productive
The teeth on the bottom of the bulb are arranged in a spiral from the periphery to the center, with the outer ones being larger	In the middle there is a thick and hard rod, around which the teeth
Planted in early spring	Planted in autumn
It ripens in September and is planted on winter storage and consumed until the new harvest	Can only be stored until February

Winter garlic is more common, but in the northern regions they prefer to grow spring garlic, since winter-planted plants can freeze.

Varieties of garlic with photos and descriptions

Most often, garlic is propagated by cloves, of which there are from 4 to 12 in each bulb, and sometimes more.

Do not use grocery store garlic as planting material. It may not be suitable for growing in your region, and in most cases it is treated with special substances that make it difficult to grow. It is best to buy garlic for planting from a trusted online seed store or local nursery.

Garlic varieties are divided into two groups:

1. Arrowheads - they have a flowering shoot emerging from the center of the bulb - an arrow ending in an inflorescence. It consists of bulbs (aerial bulbs) and flower buds, which subsequently dry out without forming seeds. A sign of ripening is the yellowing of the leaves and arrows. All bolting varieties of garlic are considered winter varieties.
2. Non-shooters– in such plants only leaves develop during the growing season. These varieties can be either winter or spring.

The best varieties of garlic for planting before winter

Shooters

Dubkovsky is a medium-ripening variety - 98–114 days pass from germination to harvest. Productivity 5.6 kg per 10 m2. Bulbs weighing 30 g, round-flat, dense. There are 10–12 cloves in an onion. The taste is spicy. Recommended for cultivation in the Krasnodar Territory, Kurgan, Rostov and Pskov regions.

Jubilee Gribovsky is the most common medium-life variety - 83–122 days pass from germination to drying of the leaves. The yield is high - on average 12.5 kg per 10 m2. The bulbs are 20–30 g, round-flat, with large teeth. The taste is very spicy. The variety is relatively winter-hardy, resistant to drought, major pests and diseases, and adapts well to different weather conditions. For cultivation in the northern and central regions of Russia, Belarus, Kazakhstan, Ukraine.

Otradnensky – mid-late variety– 95–135 days pass from germination to drying of the leaves, universal use. The yield is very high - 12–13.5 kg per 10 m2. The bulbs are more than 30 g, round-flat, with up to eight cloves each. The variety is very winter-hardy. Good for growing in the Primorsky Territory and Mordovia.

Parus is a medium-ripening variety - time from germination to harvest: 96–108 days. Gives a yield of 6 to 10 kg per 10 m2. The bulbs weigh 30–47 g, round-flat, dense, store well, and contain 7–10 cloves. The taste is spicy. The variety is winter-hardy. Recommended for cultivation in the Voronezh and Nizhny Novgorod regions, Ukraine, Stavropol Territory and Kazakhstan.

Siberian - medium term - from germination to harvesting 81–113 days, universal. The average yield is 5.8 kg per 10 m2. Bulbs weighing 20–30 g, rounded-flat, with medium-sized cloves (4–5 pcs.). The taste is pungent and semi-sharp. Suitable for cultivation in the Novosibirsk, Kemerovo, Omsk and Tomsk regions.

Non-shooters

Novosibirsk is a medium-early ripening variety - from germination to harvest it takes 68–82 days, for universal use. Productivity 5–6 kg per 10 m2. The bulbs weigh up to 30 g, are round, and store well. There are 9–13 cloves in the onion. The taste is semi-sharp, delicate. Recommended for the Novosibirsk and Kemerovo regions.

Saki – early variety– 100–115 days pass from germination to yellowing of leaves, universal use. Productivity 4.2 kg per 10 m2 Bulbs weighing 20 g, flat and round-flat, with wide cone-shaped teeth. There are 11–13 of them in the bulb. The taste is spicy. Well suited for growing in Crimea.

Garlic varieties for planting in spring

Among spring varieties, a particularly important role belongs to numerous local forms, which are usually very well preserved. Among them:

• Danilovsky (variety of the Yaroslavl region).
• Bryansk, Ufa (varieties of Bashkortostan).
• Cheboksary (Chuvashia variety), etc.

Garlic varieties quickly degenerate, so they must be changed periodically.

What soil is needed for garlic?

Garlic grows well on fertile, loose, light sandy loam or loamy soil, in non-flooded areas, with sufficient sunlight; Areas shaded by trees are not suitable for this crop. She can't stand how excess moisture, and prolonged drying of the soil.

It is good if the garden bed is located on a sunny hill and protected from the wind by a fence, trees or bushes. In spring, water should not stagnate there.

Before planting, the soil is dug up, loosened, the roots of perennial weeds are selected and carefully leveled.

When digging, add humus (1–2 buckets) per 1 m2 and wood ash(2–4 kg). Instead of ash, you can take superphosphate and potassium salt (15-20 g each).

Acidic soil is limed. The bed is prepared two weeks before planting, as it needs to settle a little so that the garlic cloves do not go deep into the ground.

How to soak garlic before planting

Before planting, garlic is treated with a weak solution of microelements (one tablet is dissolved in 1 liter of water) or an infusion of birch firewood ash: 1 tablespoon of ash is thoroughly stirred in 1 liter hot water and soak the garlic for one night.

To avoid the most common garlic disease - false powdery mildew, before planting, the teeth are heated for 12 hours at 40 C and treated with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture.

Growing garlic in open ground

The bulbs and cloves of winter garlic are larger and more productive than those of spring garlic, but the latter, due to its many scales, is stored longer. It is better to grow both forms in open ground.

When and how to plant winter garlic correctly

Winter garlic cloves are planted before winter after the vegetable harvest
crops For planting, choose the largest and healthiest bulbs - without a single spot. Small cloves are discarded, only large ones are planted. It is very important to do this on time.

• IN middle lane In Russia, planting dates are usually recommended from September 15–20 to October 5, several weeks before the onset of persistent November cold.
• Winter garlic is planted in the central regions of the Non-Chernozem Zone in the third ten days of September.
• In the Moscow region best time landings from September 25 to October 5.
• IN northern regions The dates are moved to earlier, in the south - to later.

Such planting dates are due to the fact that the teeth must take root well before the onset of persistent winter cold.

Following such advice, amateur vegetable growers often make mistakes if, at the end of September - beginning of October, after cold weather, relatively warm weather suddenly sets in. And then not only the roots, but also the sprouts begin to grow actively, and the subsequent November frosts destroy them.

If planting is delayed, the cloves do not have time to take root until the end of October and do not overwinter well. In spring, such seedlings, at best, turn out sparse and frail. To avoid mistakes, it is advisable to know a long-term and reliable weather forecast.

Planting scheme for winter garlic

Teeth same size planted in two lines. The landing pattern is as follows:

• the distance between rows is at least 20 cm;
• between teeth in a row – 8–10 cm;

The planting depth depends on the type of soil: on light soils it is 8-10 cm from the top of the clove to the soil surface, on heavy soils - 5-6 cm. Shallow planting of garlic can lead to the fact that when the temperature drops to minus 15 C, a significant part of the plants may die.

For each square meter you need 50 cloves, or 300 g of garlic (6-7 heads).

Although garlic is a cold-resistant crop, in November-December the snow “coat” is still too unreliable and thin, so it is better to insulate the bed by sprinkling it with peat, well-rotted manure or loose compost soil with a 2 cm layer.

Such mulching will serve well in early spring, as the soil will warm up faster. In addition, mulch will prevent the soil surface from forming a crust and will help conserve the moisture that garlic so needs. As a result, this technique alone significantly stimulates the development of young plants, increasing the yield by 10–15%.

How to grow winter garlic from bulbs (aerial bulbs)

Typically, aerial bulbs are used to obtain planting material - sets. One or two days before harvesting the garlic, the shoots are cut off, leaving 2–3 cm above the bulb, tied into sheaves and left under a canopy for 25–30 days.

If you plant bulbs before winter, next year they will produce single-toothed bulbs (sets), which will be the planting material.

Before sowing, the aerial bulbs are separated from the shoots by shaking and then calibrated. The smallest ones (less than 2 mm in diameter) are not suitable for sowing, since they produce very small single-toothed bulbs. It takes three years to grow them into bulbs that can be divided into cloves.

Bulbs are sown in the third ten days of September, like garlic cloves, on the beds in lines, between which a distance of 10–15 cm is left. On one square meter 8–10 g of bulblets are sown in the ridges at a depth of 3–4 cm. The crops are mulched with peat or humus with a 2 cm layer.

The next year after the emergence of seedlings, the plants are fed with nitrogen and potash fertilizers: 10–15 g of ammonium nitrate and 5 g of potassium salt per 1 m2. The crops are watered, the row spacing is loosened shallowly, and weeds must be removed.

When the leaves turn yellow and dry out, the plants are dug up, single-toothed bulbs are selected from the soil, dried and prepared for autumn planting.

Single-clove onion sets are planted in the same way as garlic cloves. In the second year, normal shoots and bulbs are obtained, divided into cloves.

Growing garlic from bulbs (how to rejuvenate garlic) - video

Aerial bulbs can also be sown in spring. To do this, they are stored in a cold (2–5 °C) or warm (18–20 °C) room in sheaves, unthreshed. This way they are better preserved. Early spring sowing of aerial bulbs after cold storage results are almost no different from winter sowing.

After warm storage (18–20 °C) and early spring sowing, well-developed plants grow: growing season they last longer than plants sown in winter and cold stored. They give large set, but more late date maturation.

If you did not have time to sow garlic in early spring, you can do it in June. In this case, the plants do not form a bulb and continue to grow until winter. After overwintering in the soil, the next year they grow and develop in the same way as bolting garlic plants grown from cloves, but produce a smaller bulb.

How to plant spring garlic correctly in spring

Two to three weeks before planting spring garlic in open ground in the spring, the storage temperature of the planting material is reduced from 18-20 to 2 C. Immediately before planting, the heads are divided into cloves and the largest of them are selected.

After preparing the soil, it is carefully leveled with a rake, longitudinal grooves are made, the distance between their centers is 20 cm, between the cloves - 5-6 cm.

Planting depth is 2-3 cm. The teeth should be planted in the center of the groove, bottom down. Shoots begin to appear after 13-15 days.

Caring for garlic in open ground

Caring for garlic plants consists of systematic loosening to a shallow depth (4-5 cm) so as not to damage the root system, killing weeds, watering and fertilizing.

How to water garlic

During the period of active growth of garlic plants, the soil should always be moist. The lack of sufficient moisture reduces yield and reduces the number of cloves in the bulbs.

Spring garlic is more moisture-loving than winter garlic and needs watering. It is necessary to water until mid-June. But garlic also cannot tolerate waterlogging of the soil.

How and what to feed garlic after winter so it doesn’t turn yellow

The leaves of winter garlic begin to grow very early, when the snow has not yet melted everywhere. However, often instead of bright green young shoots, gardeners see pale yellow and frail ones. The reason lies in insufficient plant nutrition. To prevent garlic planted before winter from turning yellow, water your plantings in the spring with a solution of ammonium nitrate (dissolve a matchbox of fertilizer in a bucket of water).

Carry out the second feeding around mid-May. At this time, plants are usually fed with a mixture mineral fertilizers: ammonium nitrate, superphosphate and potassium salt (10, 20 and 10 g per 1 m2, respectively).

How to water garlic in the spring so that it doesn’t turn yellow if you want to do without “chemicals”? In this case, it is better to use it for feeding organic fertilizers, for example, a week's infusion of fresh chicken manure(compared to mullein, it contains more nitrogen).

If the plantings dry out, water the soil abundantly, starting from the third ten days of May and throughout June. I periodically loosen the ground with a hoe and weed the weeds, preventing them from growing back.

The last, third time, the garlic is fed at the end of June, when the bulbs are finally formed. Summer food is an infusion of mullein (1 liter of fertilizer is diluted in a bucket of water) or an infusion of weeded weeds growing on a compost heap, in the same concentration. You can limit yourself to feeding with superphosphate (5 tablespoons per 10 liters of water). Since this fertilizer is poorly soluble in water, first boil it for 30 minutes in a mug of water, stirring frequently.

How and what to feed spring garlic

Spring garlic shoots begin to appear 13-15 days after planting. During mass shoots, the soil surface must be loosened and fertilized nitrogen fertilizer. To do this, 15 g of ammonium nitrate is dissolved in 10 liters of water and poured evenly into the grooves at the rate of 10 liters per 1 m 2. When the liquid is absorbed, the grooves are covered with dry soil.

The second fertilizing with nitrogen and potassium (potassium chloride) fertilizers should be given in the phase of formation of four leaves at the rate of 20 g per 10 liters of water.

The third feeding - potassium and phosphorus (superphosphate) fertilizers - in the seventh leaf phase - at the rate of 20 g per 10 liters of water, solution consumption 10 liters per 1 m 2. After each feeding, water the garlic.

Around the twentieth of June, garlic shoots out flower shoots, at the end of which aerial bulbs (bulbs) develop. Several of the most powerful arrows that appear first can be left for seed. The rest are gradually removed at the formation stage, when they are good as vitamin-rich greens for salads and canning.

Timely breaking out the arrows at the very base, from the axils of the leaves, increases the yield and allows you to grow large garlic.

Do I need to tie garlic after the shoots break? Practiced by some vegetable growers, tying the shoots of garlic in a knot does not give anything, since the development of the shoots does not stop, and a good half nutrients At the same time, it does not enter the bulb.

Harvesting and storing garlic harvest

A few weeks before harvest, stop watering the garlic. To determine if the garlic is ready to harvest, inspect a few bulbs, thoroughly scraping away any dirt.

When to dig up garlic planted before winter

A sign of garlic ripening is the cessation of the formation of new leaves. In non-shooting varieties, the leaves turn yellow, in shooters, the caps on the bulbs crack, dense wrappers form on the bulbs, and the head becomes ribbed.

As soon as the leaves begin to turn yellow and dry out, the garlic is ripe. Now you can’t delay cleaning - if you delay, the cloves will tear the wrapper and fall apart, such heads will be unsuitable for long-term storage.

Garlic is harvested in dry weather. Ripe bulbs are dug out with a pitchfork, carefully selected from the soil and laid out in rows for several days to dry under the sun.

Then the roots and stem are trimmed with pruning shears, leaving about 1.5 cm. If the stem is shorter, the hard scales of the cloves can be damaged, and then the garlic will not be stored well.

When to Harvest Spring Garlic

Depending on the variety and weather conditions, spring garlic ripens at the end of August and September. Main signs of ripeness:

• tops lodging;
• drying of the lower leaves;
• yellowing of the upper leaves;
• death of roots (they become thin, dark).

For cleaning, you need to choose dry weather. You cannot delay harvesting, as in rainy weather garlic forms new roots and sprouts. The bulbs are dug up with a shovel or pitchfork and selected from the soil. Dry them in the air or indoors until the leaves are completely dry.

Then the bulbs are cleaned of the remnants of adhering earth, the roots and false stem are cut off 4–5 cm above the shoulders. After this, the garlic is finally dried (it should rustle when stirred) and stored.

How to store garlic in winter at home so as not to dry out

It is better to immediately process the bulk of the harvest and make preparations for the winter. The rest is stored until spring in a room where in winter the temperature is kept quite low but positive with low air humidity. The prepared heads are placed in boxes, baskets or mesh bags, and can be woven into braids.

At a temperature of 1-3 C they will remain juicy and fresh for a long time and will not germinate or dry out until spring.

Experienced vegetable growers know how to properly store garlic at home. room temperature. There are two reliable methods suitable for a city apartment:

1. Well-dried heads of garlic are placed in a canvas bag, tied and placed in plastic bag, leaving it open.
2. Another method is to take a jar or pan, pour a 2-3 cm layer of salt on the bottom, then put in the heads of garlic and cover with salt again, etc. The top row must be covered with salt, but it should not be raw.

What can you plant after garlic next year?

Garlic can be returned to its original place only after four to five years. As an exception, this is possible, but only if the infection has not accumulated in the soil during the first year of cultivation, which is easy to check if you carefully examine the heads of garlic grown there. If it is completely healthy, without the slightest signs of any damage, you can take a chance and plant garlic in the same place next year, but no more.

It is not advisable to plant onions after garlic, since these crops are affected by the same diseases.

Here's what you can plant after garlic:

• cucumbers;
• zucchini;
• pumpkin;
• early harvested root vegetables and early cabbage;
• all legumes and green crops.