Summer is the hottest time for gardeners and gardeners, and not only because the sun is hot outside. A huge amount of work needs to be done at this time, otherwise good harvest You will not get it. Fertilizing the soil in summer is one of the main and mandatory tasks. This procedure can be either one-time or multiple, it all depends on the quality of the soil and the types of plants growing on it. IN summer period Two types of fertilizing are used, which can be classified as urgent and planned.
Urgent feeding
This type of supplementary nutrition for a plant is used when it needs to be saved, and this is visible to the naked eye. You have to act immediately, so you need to use exactly those fertilizers for the garden or garden that quickly transfer from the soil complex to the roots, otherwise such fertilizing will be of no use.
Garden and garden crops begin to quickly die if there is insufficient quantity of one of the three main elements of the NPK complex - nitrogen, phosphorus and calcium. The plant withers before our eyes, and the whole process can take literally several days. Which element is missing for feeding in summer can be determined by external signs, which will be discussed below.
Nitrogen
This element is the most important at the initial stage of growth. If you notice that the plantings are growing slowly, most likely they are lacking. Many other signs also indicate a deficiency of this element. For example, pale or chlorotic coloring of leaves, weak shoots and shoots, yellowing of leaves. The situation can be improved with the help of both fertilizers and fertilizers.
Diluted water will help to quickly and efficiently feed greens and root crops with nitrogen at the initial stage of their growth, provided that you have it on hand.
They use both humus and fresh fractions, but dilute them in different proportions . Fresh –1:15, and never pour the resulting solution under plant root, because it can be burned. It is better to draw grooves between the rows of plants and spill the resulting solution.
traditional and popular nitrogen fertilizer - based on manure and/or any organic residues
But dry mullein in liquid form can be used with less caution. His diluted somewhat thicker - 1:10, and even poured into the tree trunks of plants, but still in such a way that the resulting suspension does not penetrate directly to the plant trunk. Therefore, when applying this fertilizer for the garden specifically into the holes, it is necessary to immediately mix the top soil layer, localizing the mullein near the surface, and protecting the roots and stem from direct contact with it.
Also, in emergency cases, For a quick supply of nitrogen, mineral fertilizers are used, such as. This fat contains a large number of nitrogen, up to 46%, and it is in an easily digestible form.
Phosphorus
If the tomato leaves have become saturated purple shade, they need to be nourished. The lack of this element at the start of growth inhibits the development of plants, and during the ripening of fruits, its absence negatively affects their taste. Most often, phosphorus starvation does not even occur in fast growing plants, whose growing season is no more than a season, and for garden centenarians - fruit trees And berry bushes. This happens due to basic forgetfulness. After all, the garden is so stable, and usually no surprises are expected from it, annually applying standard nitrogen fertilizers and completely forgetting about fertilizing the garden with phosphorites. For several years, the trees live on old reserves, but at one far from perfect moment they run out, and the tree suddenly begins to hurt.
Changes in the color of foliage, abundant shedding of flowers, crushing of fruits and deterioration in their taste - all this indicates a severe lack of phosphorus in the soil. In this case, urgent fertilization of the land under pears, plums and other fruit trees is required. But phosphorus is not the fastest-acting element. Downtime will take too long to digest, so with urgent feeding, which is applied in the summer outside of the plan, It is recommended to use azofoska or diammofoska. Phosphorites are found in these products in a more accessible form, and in a diluted state they begin to act within a couple of days.
Potassium
Most often, urgent application of fertilizers rich in this element it is required either at the beginning of growth (after transplanting seedlings into the ground), or before the start of fruit formation. How to determine that a plant is dying precisely because of a lack of this element? The first “bell” will be yellowing and drying of the tips of the leaves of melons and nightshades. Similar manifestations of imbalance of essential substances are more common in plants in a greenhouse, since open ground The potassium balance is, at least partially, restored naturally. But in closed ground there are usually only those substances that are added when renewing the soil and fertilizing crops in the summer. Almost all of the resulting substances are usually consumed by plants almost completely during the growing season. The manure or compost added by most gardeners does not compensate for these losses, since these fertilizers contain mainly nitrogen and microelements.
signs of potassium deficiency in plants
That's why It is advisable to apply it not even in the summer, but during digging of the greenhouse. But if this has not been done, then urgent fertilizing is required when the first signs of its deficiency appear, otherwise the harvest may not be expected. The most in a fast way bring this substance to the plant’s metabolic system - spray it with a solution of potassium humate. This is one of the most effective ways support an adult plant.
But if signs of potassium deficiency appear in seedlings, then proceed as follows. Take 0.5 cups, dissolve it, stirring, in a liter of boiling water, let it cool. Then the resulting solution is diluted again in a ratio of 1:5, and the seedlings of peppers, eggplants and tomatoes are watered with this mixture. It is also possible to use solutions of mineral fertilizers in accordance with the instructions.
Scheduled feeding
It is recommended to apply fertilizers in the summer, focusing on a specific schedule. The fact is that gardeners and garden plants there are peaks in macro- and consumption, and knowing the time of their onset, it is possible to use minerals and organic fertilizers. So, let’s break down the schedule for adding fertilizers and organic matter by month.
June
This month, seedling crops must be fed. They have already gone through a period of adaptation and have taken root both in the open ground and in the greenhouse. Accordingly, they have used up a large amount of useful substances from the earth, and again need them to enhance their growth and development. Fertilizers applied in summer are applied in June to the following crops:
July
This month the foundation for the future harvest is being actively laid. In the garden, root vegetables are poured, fruits and berries are formed, heads of mid- and late-ripe cabbage are tied. It needs to be fed first.
- Cabbage medium and late dates ripening in July will respond gratefully to fertilizing with phosphorus and nitrogen. For example, it can be shed with diluted azophos or diammophos. The following composition is also suitable - take 3 tbsp for 10 liters of water. simple superphosphate and 1 tsp. ready mixture microelements. A well-diluted mixture is used for feeding in summer. late varieties cabbage, spending about 0.5-0.7 liters per well.
- Cauliflower feed at the beginning of the month. Depending on the timing of planting its seedlings, at this time its head begins to form, or is already actively forming. To get a good harvest even in the country, you need to feed the plant during this period. It would be optimal to fertilize the soil with nitroammophoska, diluted in water, in the ratio of 2 matchboxes of nitroammophoska per 10 liters of water.
- At the end of July the last fertilizing onions, grown for turnips. To do this, mix potassium salt (150 g) with superphosphate (200 g) and apply it to a bed area of 10 square meters. You can mix fertilizers with water, or scatter them along grooves drawn with a twig along the rows.
- Top dressing in July the procedure is mandatory. It is treated twice - the first time it is spilled with a solution of boric acid (2 g per 10 liters of water to prevent rotting of the core), and the second time it is fed with potassium (2 tbsp. ash per 10 liters of water).
August
This month, soil nutrition is produced under perennial plants, for example, they produce garden fertilizer. This is done only for early ripening fruit trees and fruit-bearing bushes. Also during this period, plants are fed, the harvest from which will be carried out only in September.
Fertilizers applied in summer have the most positive effect on crop growth. They help create high-quality products with good taste. You can use both organic and mineral fertilizers, or combine these two types, it all depends on individual preferences. You can stick to various schemes and application schedules, depending on the type of soil at the dacha or on an individual plot of land.
But always strictly One rule should be followed:
The last application of fertilizers or organic matter should be made no later than two weeks before harvest.
Only in this case, fertilizing the soil in summer will bring only positive results, and the finished fruit and vegetable products will not contain nitrates and other harmful substances.
Video: summer fertilization of plants - expert opinion
During the growth process, plants consume nutrients unevenly and even on fertile soils at certain periods they may lack one or another element. Weak growth, small pale leaves, small fruits are most often the result of starvation.
White cabbage.
The first fertilizing is carried out 20 days after planting the seedlings: add 0.5 liters of mushy mullein to 10 liters of water, 0.5 liters are used per plant.
10 days after the first feeding: add 0.5 liters of mushy mullein or 0.5 liters of chicken manure infusion to 10 liters of water, 1 tbsp. spoon of urea. For 1 - 1 liter of infusion.
Early July. Feed only medium and late-ripening varieties cabbage For 10 liters of water - 2 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate and 1 teaspoon of microelements. For 1 m2 use 6-8 liters.
August. Only mid- and late-ripening varieties are fed. For 10 liters of water - 1 tbsp. spoon of nitroammophoska. For 1 m2 - 6-8 liters.
In the first 2-3 weeks after planting seedlings, excessive soil moisture in the upper layer is undesirable, since root system must penetrate into deep layers where moisture reserves are more stable.
At optimal humidity soil, the growth of the inner leaves of the cabbage plant occurs a little faster than the outer ones, so they press tightly against each other from the inside, forming a dense head of cabbage. Fluctuations in soil moisture lead to uneven growth of inner leaves and cracking of heads.
To prevent ripe heads of cabbage from cracking, they need to be bent in one direction several times to disrupt the root system. This will suspend access nutrients and will slow down the growth of cabbage.
To prevent aphids, snails and slugs, plants and soil are dusted with wood ash (1 cup per 1 m2).
Cauliflower.
To form a unit of yield, it requires approximately 2 times more nutrients than white cabbage. The highest need for phosphorus is required for nitrogen and potassium. With a lack of boron, the apical buds die, voids form inside the head and in the stump, and the head rots.
With a lack of molybdenum, large leaves are formed and the heads become ugly. When growing in sandy soil, it is necessary additional contribution manganese That's why cauliflower be sure to feed with microelements.
The first feeding is given 5-7 days after planting the seedlings - with a solution of urea (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water per 10 plants) and potassium nitrate (1 tablespoon) with the addition of 1 teaspoon of microfertilizers.
The second feeding is at the beginning of the formation of the head, per 10 liters of water - 3 tbsp. spoons of nitroammophoska. Fertilizing with organic fertilizers is useful: bird droppings diluted with water 20 times, or mullein diluted with water 10 times, or slurry diluted with water 4 times.
To obtain snow-white heads, they are protected from the sun: 2-3 leaves are broken or tied above the head.
Radish
Radish, like any early ripening crop, is very demanding on soil fertility and is responsive to fertilizers. To protect seedlings from cruciferous flea beetle, they are pollinated with tobacco dust mixed with lime or ash (1:1). To some extent, flea beetles are repelled by sprinkling the seedlings with road dust. When sowing and caring for, do not use potassium fertilizers and ash, otherwise the plants may shoot. Good fertilizers- compost and nitroammophoska.
Bulb onions
Do not apply fresh manure to the onions, otherwise growth will be delayed and the formation of leaves will not stop for a long time.
The onion forms late and ripens poorly, is more susceptible to neck rot, and is poorly stored. The onion responds well to the application of mineral fertilizers. However, its root system is sensitive to increased concentrations of salts, so it is better to apply them in small portions 2-3 times. Immediately after the emergence of nigella, the crops need to be fed with nitrogen fertilizers at the rate of 10-15 g/m2. When 1-2 true leaves are formed, the first thinning is carried out, leaving 1.5-2 cm between plants. At the same time, weak plants are removed.
After the appearance of 3-4 true leaves, thinning is repeated to the final distance - 5-7 cm. After the second thinning, fertilizing with full mineral fertilizer is necessary, preferably in liquid form. Fertilizing with slurry diluted 5-6 times with water or bird droppings diluted 10-15 times has a good effect. Add 30-40 g of superphosphate to a bucket of water. 3-4 buckets of solution are used per 10 m2. A month before harvesting, watering is stopped. The last feeding with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers is carried out during the formation of the bulb; 150 g of potassium salt and 200 g of superphosphate are added per 10 m2.
When growing onions on heavy soil, rapid formation and maturation is facilitated by unhilling of plants. In this case, carefully, without damaging the root system, the soil is raked away from the bulbs. When sowing seeds in early spring, onions are ready for harvesting in late August-early September. In some years, due to unfavorable weather conditions, it does not have time to ripen by this time. To speed up ripening, plants are dug up, damaging the root system and disrupting the connection with the soil. After 2-4 days, depending on the weather, the bulbs are removed and laid out to dry along with the leaves. Due to the outflow of plastic substances, the ripening process occurs and bulbs suitable for storage are formed.
Sometimes rolling or crushing leaves is used to speed up the ripening of bulbs. However, this technique is harmful to the crop, since the plants are damaged and pathogenic organisms penetrate into the bulbs through the resulting gaps. In addition, rolling does not stop growth, and plants continue to grow with a broken stem.
Onion sets
When the feather reaches a height of 10 cm, they begin to treat the plants against diseases (phytosporin - every 2 weeks). When the feather reaches a height of 8-10 cm, carry out the first feeding: for 10 liters of water - 1 cup of mushy mullein, 1 tbsp. spoon of urea, per 1 m2 - 2-3 liters of solution. Second feeding - 12-15 days after the first. For 10 liters of water - 2 tbsp. spoons of nitroammophoska, per 1 m2 - 5 liters of solution. Third - when the onion reaches the size walnut. For 10 liters of water - 2 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate, per 1 m2 - 5 liters of solution.
Measures to combat onion fly.
Onions are placed next to carrots. The specific smell of carrots repels the onion fly, and onion phytoncides repel the carrot fly. Dissolve 1 glass in 10 liters of water table salt, watering can be used to water the onion beds, trying not to get them on the feathers. The first time this is done when the feather reaches 5 cm, after 20 days the watering is repeated. When a fly appears, the soil is sprinkled with a repellent substance: 100 g wood ash, or 1 tbsp. spoon of tobacco dust, or 1 teaspoon of ground pepper per 1 m2 (2 times with an interval of 10-18 days). Measures to combat peronosporosis (false powdery mildew). The onion bed should have a direction from north to south and be well lit by the sun. Crops and plantings should not be thickened. Before planting, the seedlings are warmed up. Feathers at a height of 10-12 cm are sprayed with a solution of copper oxychloride, and every 2 weeks they are sprayed with phytosporin.
Leek
The first feeding is when 5-6 true leaves appear, the second is a month after the first. For 10 liters of water - 0.5 liters of mullein, 1 teaspoon each of urea, potassium sulfate and superphosphate. Per 1 m2 - 3-4 liters of solution. Once a week before hilling, add ash - 1 cup per 1 m2.
As soon as the leaves appear from the ground, the plantings are fed nitrogen fertilizer. To do this, dissolve 1 tbsp in 10 liters of water. a spoonful of urea, 10 l - per 1 m2.
When the leaves reach a height of 10-15 cm, remove the soil from the bulb, sprinkle it with ash and return the soil to its place. This operation is repeated when arrows appear.
When removing arrows a, leave a few pieces. You can easily determine from them optimal time harvesting. As soon as the wrapper on the heads cracks and the bulbs begin to peek out, it’s time to dig.
For your health planting material It is recommended to regularly rejuvenate the cultivated plant by sowing aerial bulbs. In the first year of cultivation, they form single-toothed ones. They are planted in the fall and the following year they receive normal multi-toothed bulbs.
Loves sprinkling and loosening. When the root crop reaches the size of a walnut, fertilize: per 10 liters of water - 1 tbsp. a spoonful of nitroammophoska and 1 glass of wood ash. 10 liters of fertilizing should be enough for 1 m2 of area.
After 10 days - the second feeding: for 10 liters of water - 0.5 liters of mushy mullein and 2 tbsp. spoons of nitroammophoska. For 1 m2 - 5-6 liters.
After the second thinning: for 10 liters of water - 2 cups of ash and 1 teaspoon of table salt. For 1 m2 - 10 l.
To prevent core rot, carry out root feeding boric acid: 2 g per 10 liters of water.
To increase the sugar content, water the beets 2-3 times per season with a solution of table salt - 1 tbsp. spoon per 10 liters of water.
1-2 times per season, beets are fed with a solution of microelements: 1 teaspoon per 10 liters of water.
During fruiting, 2-3 leaves are removed from the middle of the bush for better lighting and ventilation. Regularly remove diseased, old leaves lying on the ground.
Why do the ovaries rot? Most likely they were not pollinated female flowers. Or there were sudden changes in temperature. Or watered the bushes cold water. Or the ovaries were affected by blossom end rot.
Decide which plants you will take fruits from for summer consumption and canning, and which ones you will leave for “winter” fruits. Fruits are removed from “summer” plants as often as possible, without allowing them to outgrow; the signal for harvesting is the wilted corolla of the flower. From such plants you can collect more than 20 greens.
On “winter” plants, 4-5 fruits are allowed to form. When they ripen, they are harvested winter storage, cutting off along with the stalk.
The first feeding is before flowering (per 10 liters of water - 0.5 liters of mullein, 1 tablespoon of nitroammophoska). Or for 10 liters of water - 2 tbsp. ideal spoons (1 liter per).
During flowering: per 10 liters of water - 2 tbsp. spoons of ash and 1 tbsp. feeder's spoon, 1 liter of fertilizer is used per plant.
During fruiting: per 10 liters of water - 2 tbsp. spoons of nitroammophoska and 2-3 tbsp. giant spoons, 2 liters per plant.
Additionally, 2 foliar feedings are carried out with an interval of 10-15 days (per 10 liters of water - 1 tablespoon of urea or ideal). For one plant - 0.5 l.
Potato
Application of semi-rotted manure or compost (40-50 kg per 10 m2) on loamy and sandy loam soils almost doubles the tuber yield.
You cannot apply fresh manure under potatoes (both in autumn and spring). This leads to plant diseases and reduces the yield and quality of tubers.
The first fertilizing is applied at the beginning of budding, before loosening or hilling. Mineral fertilizers are scattered between rows at a distance of 5-6 cm from the stems, and then embedded in the ground during hilling. For each bush, 3-6 g of superphosphate, 3-4 g of potassium chloride or sulfate, 2-3 g of urea or ammonium nitrate. If nitrophoska is used for feeding, it is taken at the rate of 10-12 g per bush.
From organic fertilizers humus is suitable - two handfuls for each bush. Wood ash is added at the rate of one or two handfuls mixed with the same amount of soil. Dry bird droppings - 10-15 g per bush.
The second feeding in case of weak development of the above-ground mass is carried out in the beginning of flowering phase, mainly with potassium fertilizers (30 g of potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water per 10 m2). If there is a lack of potassium in the soil, the flesh of the tubers darkens. After feeding, the plants are hilled up.
Immediately after the second feeding, the plants are dusted with ash. For them it's additional feeding, and for the beetle - obvious discomfort.
To speed up the flow of nutrients from leaves to tubers and thereby increase the yield, foliar feeding is used in the budding and flowering phase, as well as three weeks before harvesting. Even a one-time spraying of plants at the final stage increases the tuber yield by 7-11%, and starch content by 0.8-1.0%. To do this, infuse 20 g of superphosphate in 10 liters of water for 1-2 days (mixing well periodically). It will take 1 liter of solution to process 10 m2 of potato plantation.
If there is a lack of nitrogen in the soil, foliar fertilizing is carried out during the period of budding and flowering of potatoes (20 g of urea per 10 liters of water). At the same time, the tops are sprayed with solutions of microelements.
In dry and hot weather, you cannot deeply loosen the soil and hill up the plants - this causes loss of moisture and overheating of the soil. In such conditions, when loosening, a little soil from the rows is raked up to each plant.
Mowing the above-ground mass 7-10 days before harvesting (no later and no earlier) helps to increase the resistance of tubers to damage to the skin and prevents the spread of diseases, especially late blight.
In cold weather, peppers and eggplants cannot be watered, as the soil cools and the functioning of the root system and leaf apparatus deteriorates.
During the period of flowering and fruit set, refreshing waterings are carried out between waterings (5-10 liters of water per 1 m2) to create increased relative air humidity, since flowers fall off at low humidity.
It is better to loosen the rows after watering or rain. Starting from the second loosening, the plants are hilled.
If the pepper is grown in a greenhouse, then when the plant reaches a height of 20-25 cm, remove the top of the main stem. Pinched plants quickly begin to branch and form a crop. In open ground, you should not pinch peppers; this technique delays the growing season.
Insufficiently complete pollination of flowers can cause the appearance of non-standard (crooked) fruits. To prevent this, you need to shake the plants in hot, sunny, calm weather.
Lack of moisture in the soil, heat air causes lignification of the stems, falling of buds and leaves of both pepper and eggplant.
On open areas it is necessary to protect pepper and eggplant plantings from the wind with the help of curtains - plantings of tall crops that are planted in advance around the bed (beets, beans, chard, leeks).
Since the root system of pepper is located in the top layer of soil, loosening should be shallow (3-5 cm) and accompanied by mandatory hilling.
Do not apply fresh manure to peppers and eggplants; this can cause the development of vegetative mass to the detriment of flowering.
Young pepper and eggplant seedlings planted in open ground cannot withstand low temperatures above zero (2-3’C), but in the fall, fruit-bearing plants can withstand frosts down to -5’C.
Feeding. During flowering: per 100 liters of water - 5-6 kg of finely chopped nettle, 1 bucket of mullein, 10 tbsp. spoons (heaped) of ash. For 1 plant - 1 liter. The fertilizer is fermented in a barrel for a week.
During fruiting, plants are given two feedings. First: per 100 liters of water - 0.5 buckets of chicken manure, 2 cups of nitroammophoska. For 1 plant - 1 liter. Or per 100 liters of water - 10 tbsp. spoons of Signora Tomato, for 1 plant - 1 liter.
The second feeding - 12 days after the first: per 100 liters of water - 1 bucket of mullein, 1/4 bucket of bird droppings, 1 glass of urea. For 1 m2 - 5-6 liters of solution. Or for 100 liters of water - 0.5 liters of Ideal, for 1 m2 - 5 liters.
From time to time you need to sprinkle the soil with ash: 1-2 cups per 1 m2.
Another option for feeding eggplant. The first feeding is carried out 10-15 days after planting the seedlings: per 10 liters of water - 40-
50 g of superphosphate, 10 g of ammonium nitrate or 30 g of urea, 15-20 g of potassium salt.
The second feeding is carried out 20 days after the first, with doses of phosphorus and potash fertilizers increase by 1.5-2 times.
The third feeding is at the beginning of fruiting: for 10 liters of water - 60-80 g of urea, superphosphate and 20 g of potassium chloride. One watering can (10 l) is used for 5 m2. After each feeding, the plants must be watered with clean water to avoid burns from fertilizers.
Cucumber
Oat root secretions have a detrimental effect on a number of soil pathogens. In early spring, 100-150 g of oats are sown per 1 m2 and, when the seedlings reach a height of 15-20 cm, the bed intended for cucumbers is dug up, embedding the oat plants in the soil. You can sow oats in the fall, after harvesting the cucumber vines.
Dill helps increase cucumber yield.
Onions and radishes planted near cucumber and tomato plantings repel spider mites.
Onions and garlic will protect the cucumber from bacteriosis. As they grow, the arrows must be cut so that the phytoncides are released more strongly.
Never plant cucumbers next to roses - ants will drag aphids from the roses to the cucumbers.
From the third decade of June, plants begin to actively grow and develop. At this time, it is important to feed them and protect them from adversity.
Onion and garlic fed with complex fertilizer without nitrogen or with minimal nitrogen content. Phosphorus, potassium and trace elements contribute to the formation of a strong onion with a high dry matter content.
At the same time, root crops are also fed.
Moreover, beets must be fertilized with sodium and boron.
Carrots and parsley are hilled once or twice, carefully so as not to damage the underground part.
This technique protects the heads of root crops from sunburn, greening and prevents pests from laying eggs on the plants.
Root crops should be covered with a layer of soil to a height of about 5 cm.
In the first half of July, simultaneously with the last thinning, the first harvest is carried out, leaving 10 cm between root crops.
If when growing seedlings and zucchini it was important to stimulate root growth, for which phosphorus fertilizers were used, then during fruiting of plants nitrogen and potassium are more needed.
It is best to alternate organic and mineral fertilizers: mullein infusion (in a ratio of 1:8) with a solution (per 10 liters of water) of urea and potassium sulfate (20 g each) and superphosphate extract (50 g), to which are added boric acid(0.5 g) and magnesium sulfate (0.3 g), or granular complex fertilizer with microelements (80 g/sq.m.).
Before applying fertilizer, the bed is watered.
It should be remembered that the yield of cucumbers depends on the carbon dioxide content in the greenhouse air. A carbon dioxide concentration of 0.6% accelerates the formation of female flowers and doubles the yield of greens.
Because the carbon dioxide necessary for photosynthesis, its deficiency has a bad effect on plants in sunny days.
To protect against pests, it is advisable to use Sirroko binars - ready-made tank mixtures of insecticides wide range actions that combine contact and systemic protective effects against gnawing and sucking pests, including leaf miners.
Binaries are also beneficial because their use is cheaper than treating the drugs included in the binaries separately.
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Free shippingFeeding vegetables in the hottest month of the year is no less important than watering. Fertilizing in July is needed both mineral and organic. From minerals choose complex and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, wood ash will also work. Infusions of mullein and bird droppings are used as organic matter. Such feeding will help the ripening of a rich harvest, large, healthy fruits.
If you need to determine whether plants are experiencing nutritional deficiencies, these articles will help:
How to feed onions and garlic in July
At the very beginning of July they reach the finish line of bulb formation and. Now they really need feeding. Any complex mineral fertilizer is suitable for this.
Dissolve 25–30 g of fertilizer in 1 bucket of water. The resulting solution (1 liter per 1 m²) must be applied so as not to get on the leaves. After application, it is advisable to wash the leaves with water from a hose, just in case.
After 2 weeks, around the 20th of July, you can repeat feeding, but this time use potassium sulfate (12–16 g) and superphosphate (18–22 g). The solution consumption rate is the same.
How to feed tomatoes and cucumbers in July
Tomatoes and cucumbers can also be fed three times in July, with an interval of 10 days. To do this, it is advisable to use wood ash (100 g per 1 liter of water - this is the norm per 1 m²) or mullein (1:10, the norm is 1 liter per 1 m²).
Read more about root and foliar feeding of tomatoes and cucumbers in the articles:
In a greenhouse on tomato and cucumber leaves chlorosis may appear. On tomatoes, the oldest leaf blades usually turn pale, while the veins remain of normal color, while on cucumbers, young leaves along with the veins most often turn pale.
Treatment with a 0.15% solution of the drug will help restore plant health. HOM . Consumption rate – 0.35–0.40 g per 1 plant. Treat cucumbers and tomatoes with the drug solution HOM better in the evening.
How to feed cabbage in July
All types require feeding during this period. You can use any complex fertilizer, containing, among other things, microelements. 18–22 g per bucket of water is enough. The solution consumption rate is 1.5–2 liters for each plant.
2 weeks after this feeding, you can carry out another one - loosen the soil, scatter wood ash over the surface (250 g per 1 m²) and then water it (5-6 liters per 1 m²).
What to feed pumpkin in July
Like other pumpkin crops, you can feed them 3 times in July, every 10 days. You can use both mineral and:
- organics - bird droppings (1:20), mullein (1:10), consumption rate - 0.5 l per plant.
- mineral - nitroammofoska (25 g per 1 bucket of water), consumption rate - 1 liter per plant.
The second and third fertilizing can be done with a solution of wood ash (200 g per 1 bucket of water). Consumption rate – 1 liter for each plant.
What to feed potatoes in July
Around mid-July, potassium sulfate should be sprinkled (you can directly on the surface of the soil, preferably between the rows). The application rate is about 40 g per 1 m². After applying fertilizers, you need to loosen the soil, thus sealing them. After application, it is advisable to water the soil with a small amount of water (5–6 liters per 1 m²).
Microelements are now available in tablets. They can additionally treat plants by dissolving 1 tablet in 1 bucket of water. The solution consumption rate is about 0.5 liters per plant. Such treatments will stimulate the outflow of nutrients into the tubers, which will increase their mass and accelerate ripening.
Nikolay Khromov, Candidate of Agricultural Sciences, senior researcher
For more information about what and how to apply fertilizers correctly, read the articles:
It is useful for every gardener to know how to feed garlic in July, when it is already at the stage of forming heads. This is a healthy vegetable that does not require special care. But it is important to remember that you need to fertilize in spring and summer. On fertile soil it will grow much best harvest. The vegetable heads will be larger and juicier. How to feed garlic to meet gardeners’ hopes for a bountiful harvest?
Garlic is planted in late autumn or in early spring. It all depends on the variety and the conditions. Fertilizing garlic in spring differs from fertilizing in summer. Gardeners are doing everything necessary to provide this crop useful fertilizers for growth. After all, it depends on what the head will taste and aroma.
Growing this vegetable is easy, you just have to find out how to feed it correctly and what fertilizers it prefers. The varieties and time of year when vegetables are planted do not affect the quality of the harvest. Yarovaya and winter varieties They differ only in shape, the strength of the heads and the presence of a rod. Also, spring garlic does not shoot a garlic arrow and does not produce seeds. The important thing is that in summer months both species require high-quality feeding.
The last application of fertilizer is made no later than mid-July, when the bulb is actively growing, so that it becomes full and large.
In addition to fertilizer, there are many nuances in growing these crops. For example, for garlic, it is important that they are grown on the sunny side, since garlic is mainly planted in open ground. They need to be watered well, the arrows cut off at the right time, and the ground loosened.
Minerals for garlic
During the growth period, garlic has several stages of development. To grow, vegetables periodically need mineral and organic fertilizers. In July, the last fertilizing is applied to form the bulb so that the garlic grows large. Sometimes this period begins in August. For this stage, the vegetable requires certain mineral elements.
Needs feeding the best fertilizers. Garlic needs potassium minerals and salts once a month. They increase productivity, are responsible for immunity and resistance to disease.
Phosphorus is also necessary. Superphosphate is responsible for the proper development of plants. To feed garlic properly, you need to dilute fifty grams of the substance in a bucket of water. Water at the root. For one square meter it takes about 3-4 liters. This is a very good fruit growth stimulator.
The vegetable also loves it when nitrogen fertilizers are added to the soil. These are urea, saltpeter, ammonium sulfate. They promote green growth and increase resistance to infections. But they are mainly used as top dressing before the last one. These substances are poured under the root in dry form or dissolved in water.
Nitrophoska and diammofoska have beneficial effects. Thanks to them, the plant becomes stronger and more resilient. These complex mineral fertilizers make it possible to provide adequate nutrition to the crop. They contain phosphorus, potassium, nitrogen.
Properly fed plants always give wonderful harvest delicious healthy vegetables.
Organic feeding
Better chemical fertilizers always natural. Organic substances contain iron, phosphorus, calcium, magnesium, and beneficial bacteria. That is why they are so necessary for garlic throughout the entire growth period.
The use of chicken manure is very useful. But you need to know how much to add. The main thing is not to overdo it in fertilizing, and not to make mistakes, otherwise the crop will die. Observe all proportions indicated on the package. Do not water directly on plants and foliage, only between rows, or at the roots.
Ash is also added. It contains a lot of potassium, magnesium and phosphorus. You can water the seedlings with ash diluted in water or scatter dry ashes directly on the ground. Dilute the substance in water, one hundred grams per bucket of water. Fertilizer should not be cold.
Mullein has the same effect as ash. But it should be infused for about a week, then poured into the rows near the garlic.
Manure has a very beneficial effect on the growth of this vegetable. It is diluted in water. Water at the root using one small ladle per plant. Fertilizer is applied in dry weather in the evening. Manure can be fed during each growth period.
Compost is mixed organic matter that has decomposed over time. It is prepared in advance. It ensures healthy growth of the vegetable.
What are the plants sprayed with?
For a good harvest it is also necessary foliar feeding garlic Experienced gardeners They know that not only root feeding is used. This is highly effective, since during spraying all the beneficial substances fall on the leaves and stems. Thanks to this, these elements are quickly absorbed. Another advantage of this method is that the consumption of the substance is much lower than with other methods. Concentrates dissolve in water.
You can spray the plant several times a season. This method must be combined with other methods of adding fertilizers, as it will never completely replace root feeding. It is necessary to spray during active growth stems and bulbs. This falls in the middle of summer.
For spraying against fungal diseases and rot, a fermented milk mixture and soda solution are used. A soap solution repels insects that prevent plants from blooming normally. The saline solution also helps drive away pests.
Boric acid is also suitable for treating leaves and in the last stage of pouring bulbs. A solution of this pharmaceutical product can increase the yield and improve the taste of garlic.
Features of feeding spring garlic
Spring garlic, like winter garlic, needs constant feeding with fertilizers. Every gardener should know how to fertilize the garlic that is planted in the spring so that it is large and healthy.
Garlic is fertilized for the very first time in the spring, when it adapts after planting. The last feeding is best done in July, when the heads are pouring. Then buy superphosphate fertilizer. Phosphorus fertilizers accelerate the growth and development of garlic. Approximately 60 grams of dry matter are diluted per bucket of water. Apply 5–6 liters of fertilizer per square meter.
Ammonia will help drive away unwanted insects. If you water the soil with a solution of potassium permanganate, it will be saturated and become more fertile. It also helps in disinfection. Ash is a good choice for organic fertilizers. It nourishes the soil and protects against diseases.
It is important to select fertilizer for garlic carefully. Feeding is especially important in the middle of its development. If you apply fertilizers correctly, you will end up with a rich harvest of healthy vegetables.
