Decorative peppers. How to grow indoor peppers at home - all about caring for the “spark.” Growing peppers at home: how to properly fertilize

It is a pleasure to watch indoor hot peppers: they grow and bloom quickly, forming small white star-shaped flowers. Then the fruits set: at first they are green, and when they turn red or yellow, they resemble lit candles on a Christmas tree!

Hot pepper: biological description

FAMILY: Solanaceae

BUSH: Lush, compact, height from 20 cm

SHAPE: Depending on the variety, the fruits are blunt-nosed, pointed, smooth or slightly curved, directed upward, like a candle, or downward

SIZE: Peppers from 2 to 9 cm

The pods taste very bitter, so I use them as a seasoning when preserving vegetables or dry them and grind them. Indoor peppers bear fruit better in oily soils with regular watering. warm room at good lighting, he doesn't like shading.

FACT: in the summer flower pot with indoor pepper CAN BE TAKEN OUTDOORS OR TO THE BALCONY.

Sowing hot peppers

I sow the sprouted seeds in a box filled with a 2:1:1 mixture of garden soil, humus and peat. I add 1 tbsp to a bucket of this mixture. wood ash and a few pinches of complex mineral fertilizer. After sowing, I cover the box with glass.

For indoor peppers, an air temperature of at least + 15 degrees is suitable, in winter up to +20... +25 degrees. in spring and summer.

If condensation collects on it, it means that the necessary microclimate for seed germination has been obtained, but I still periodically open the container briefly for ventilation. When the first true leaves appear, I dive the seedlings into separate pots, while pinching the central stem. After this procedure, side shoots appear, which I also pinch off. In this way, you can form a lush crown of the plant and increase productivity.

TIP: I periodically pollinate indoor capsicums: I touch the stamens of the flowers with a brush and thus transfer pollen from one flower to another. This not only increases the number of ovaries, but also makes the fruits larger, they become “angrier”, more aromatic and tastier.

Caring for hot peppers at home

I water the peppers sparingly, not allowing the soil to dry out. Moreover, a day before watering, I keep a jar of water near the radiator so that the liquid infuses and warms up slightly.

I feed the pepper once every 2 weeks according to the season. In autumn-winter - any water-soluble complex mineral fertilizers (ed.: Mortar, Kemira Lux, Kemira Universal, nitrophoska - at the rate of 1 tsp per 5 liters of water). In spring and early summer I feed with phosphorus-nitrogen fertilizers.

In the summer, when I keep potted plants outside, I can feed them with a weak solution of mullein (1:15).

Hot peppers - benefits and harms

Benefit

  • Hot peppers reduce blood sugar and “bad” cholesterol.
  • Where it grows indoor pepper, the air is cleaner - thanks to its bactericidal properties, it suppresses the development of harmful microbes.

Harm

Hot peppers should not be eaten during an exacerbation:

  • stomach ulcers;
  • gastritis;
  • angina pectoris. By the way, a glass of milk or yogurt will help extinguish the “fire” in the stomach if you have overdid it with spicy food.

Diseases and pests of indoor pepper and their control

Black leg on hot pepper

The most common disease. It mainly affects seedlings. To combat it, it is enough to adjust the temperature and humidity in the room (do not overfill the soil; for prevention, spill it with a pink solution of potassium permanganate).

Aphids and spider mite

To combat insects, spray plants with proven folk remedy- infusion of ash (pour 0.5 tbsp of ash into 5 liters hot water, stir, leave overnight, stir again in the morning and strain). You can wash the leaves with a sponge and soapy water or spray with any insecticide.

Manana KASTRITSKAYA, Ph.D. agricultural sciences

Note: Hot peppers at home: personal growing experience

Hot peppers are a perennial crop, which I enjoy using. Having grown bushes from seeds, I then rejuvenate them by pruning for five years.

To do this, in the fall I dig up plants still with fruits, replant them in pots, and continue to care for them: water, feed, and remove ripe peppers. I move the fruit-bearing bushes to a cooler and brighter room (for me it is a glazed, unheated loggia).

I maintain the temperature on the loggia from +14 to + 18 degrees. - This comfortable conditions for overwintering hot peppers. I water it rarely, but I don’t allow the soil in the pot to dry out; I spray it with settled water on top. Already in February I put the peppers on a bright window sill in the room (where it’s +22…+24 degrees). I trim the bushes, leaving hemp about 5 cm long in place of the side branches. I water it and feed it with complex fertilizer according to the instructions. mineral fertilizer. After some time, branches and leaves begin to grow, and then the bushes begin to bloom.

In April-May (depending on the weather) I transplant the peppers into the garden bed, covering them under the arches with lu-trasil. When stable heat sets in, I remove the shelter. IN further care usual, as with other peppers. And I leave some specimens in pots and decorate the gazebo and entrance to the house with them.

In the fall, I replant the bushes from the garden beds into pots, and so on for five years in a row. In the fifth year, I sow hot peppers with seeds, and in the fall I replant the plants in pots and move them to the loggia for the winter.

Valentina TIKHONOVA, Krasnodar region

Secrets of growing hot peppers at home: video

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Eco-Friendly Homestead: Potted peppers are not actually peppers at all (Piper) from the Pepper family (Piperaceae). This is Capsicum from the Solanaceae family. However, other vegetable peppers known to us (bulgarian, sweet, bitter) are actually capsicums. Pepper is what spice is made from (peas and ground, allspice, pink, white).

House peppers are not actually peppers at all (Piper) from the Pepper family (Piperaceae). This is Capsicum from the Solanaceae family. However, other vegetable peppers known to us (bulgarian, sweet, bitter) are actually capsicums. Pepper is what spice is made from (peas and ground, allspice, pink, white). The tropical regions of Mexico and Guatemala are considered the homeland of capsicum, where capsicum was domesticated in ancient times. Nowadays, the plant has spread widely across all continents.

Among the plants of the genus there are perennials, shrubs and subshrubs. Several capsicums are common in culture, the most popular of which is Capsicum annuum. This is funny, but not only is it not a pepper, it also doesn’t have pods. In a botanical sense, its fruits are nothing more than berries, like those of capsicum's relatives tomato, eggplant, potato and nightshade. There are a lot of varieties of “pepper”; they are divided into two groups – sweet and bitter. The bitter and spicy taste depends on the content of the alkaloid capsaicin.

Capsicums grow well in open ground in Ukraine and Moldova, it is cultivated in the south of Russia and in the republics of Central Asia. Dwarf varieties often called ornamental and grown as indoor plant. At home, ornamental peppers can live for several years, blooming and bearing fruit every year. But not everyone knows this and, most often, the plant is thrown away after the fruits fall.

Indoor capsicum bushes are compact, well branched, their height is usually from 20 to 50 cm. The leaves are ovoid, elongated to varying degrees, and are lanceolate.

Flowers and then fruits appear in the branches of the stem. Flowers are single, paired or collected in bunches, five-membered. The corolla is white, yellow or purple. The flowers are capable of self-pollination and cross-pollination, which makes it easy to obtain fruits indoors.

The shape, color and size of the peppers depend on the variety. They are usually red, yellow or purple. The taste is bitter.

Decorative forms of capsicum during the period of fruit ripening are most often simply strewn with small bright fruits. Modern hybrids of indoor peppers can have dark burgundy or variegated foliage, the peppers can hide under the leaves or rise up above the bush like little horns. There are even varieties in which the fruits are very elongated and twist. On one plant there can be fruits different colors depending on the degree of ripening.

Indoor pepper is an unpretentious plant, does not require complex care, blooms and bears fruit at home without any problems.

POPULAR VARIETIES OF PEPPER

Dwarf varieties for growing at home are as diverse as varieties for open ground. In fact, you can grow almost any pepper at home; they differ only in the size of the bush and fruit. Here are some popular varieties:

Capsicum Rainbow

Spectacular, chic pepper: round, small, with a slightly elongated “nose”, the peppers are full of different colors as they ripen. The pods initially have purple shade, as it ripens, the color changes through white, yellow, orange to red. Plant height 20–25 cm. Leaves are dark green.

Capsicum Aji Brazilian pumpkin

A variety of stunning beauty. The plant is covered with small glossy “pumpkins”, quite sharp and thick-walled. The fruit size is about 3 cm in diameter. Ripe fruits have a beautiful “tomato” scarlet color.

Capsicum Medusa

Capsicum Medusa. This variety of pepper is interesting because of the location and shape of the fruits on the bush, reminiscent of the tentacles of a jellyfish. A compact bush, peppercorns have a pungent taste and are used in culinary dishes and preparations. Ripe fruits are bright red.

Capsicum Black Pearl is the world's first black leaf pepper.

The leaves are green at first, later black and shiny. The fruits are shaped like slightly elongated peas, also black. When ripe, they acquire a dark red color.

Capsicum Salsa Orange

Capsicum Salsa Orange - decorative variety peppers for growing in pots. The height of the plant is no more than 15 cm. The color of the fruit is green, then orange. The growing season until biological maturity is 85–90 days. The value of this pepper variety is its high decorative value.

Capsicum Poinsettia- a decorative variety of pepper for growing at home or in flowerpots outdoors. The pods are 7–8 cm long, conical, and can be curved into a small hook at the tip. The plant, 30–40 cm high, is very decorative; the pods bloom into a milky red color. The variety is early ripening, 70–80 days of growing season until biological maturity.

Capsicum Masquerade

Capsicum Masquerade is an ornamental pepper with purple, cream, orange and then red fruit. Depending on what kind of spiciness you want to try, that color can be picked. Purple is slightly tingling, red is spicy. Suitable for growing on a windowsill as an indoor pepper. At the same time, pods of all colors are present on the plant.

Capsicum Basket of Fire- decorative variety hot pepper for growing in pots and hanging flowerpots. The fruits are initially pale yellow, and later change color to scarlet through orange. The pods are small, from 2 to 4 cm, sharply conical. The variety is very decorative and practical; the pods can be used entirely when canning vegetables, added to dishes or dried.

Capsicum Tepin. Wild small-fruited pepper with fruits with explosive pungency. “Cowboy berry”, these fruits were eaten by cowboys while on duty so as not to fall asleep. The leaves are small, centimeter-long fruits are red. This variety, like Mini, is irresistible on window sills.

CAPSICUM (HOUSE PEPPER), CARE TIPS

Like any tropical plant indoor peppers love warmth and lots of sunlight.

Illumination. Capsicum requires complete solar lighting, at least 4 hours a day of direct sun. Grows well in southern and western windows. If the plant is dark, then it has few leaves, it blooms and bears fruit poorly. In the summer heat, it should be shaded from direct sunlight, as sunburn is possible.

Temperature. In spring and summer 20-25 °C. If the pepper overwinters, it requires a cool temperature of 15 °C. Daily temperature fluctuations are very useful for this crop. To keep it 5-7 degrees cooler at night, it is best to place it on the veranda or balcony.

Watering. In summer, capsicum is watered abundantly as the top layer of the substrate dries, during wintering at low temperature watering is rare. It is advisable to use water room temperature.

The soil. The soil mixture for cultivating capsicum is light and neutral. It can consist of 1 part leaf humus, 1 part turf soil, 1 part garden soil and 1/2 part sand.

Air humidity. Doesn't really matter, but spraying responds well.

Fertilizer. It is useful to feed complex fertilizer, from spring to autumn, once every two weeks. In winter they do not fertilize. It should be remembered that when planning to eat peppers, you should not get too carried away with fertilizers.

Pollination. The fruits set well even without cross-pollination; just shake the pot of pepper. Artificial pollination will increase the number of ovaries. Transferring pollen from one flower to another using a soft brush or cotton ball allows you to obtain bigger harvest. You should know that peppers are easily pollinated. Therefore, if you have several growing on one window different varieties, then this is not correct. No one knows what kind of harvest you will reap.

Trimming. Pruning is necessary when growing as a perennial plant. Trim old peppers in late winter or early spring to about half the height of the stems. Since capsicum is most often sown from seeds in the spring and thrown away in the fall, it is not pruned.

Rest period. Due to the decrease daylight hours peppers enter a forced period of rest. If the lighting is artificial, then flowering and fruiting can continue continuously.

Transfer. Last year's old capsicums are transplanted into fresh soil. Grown from seeds as annuals, they are replanted once after sowing in separate pot, and then, if necessary, transferred to a larger container.

Reproduction. Indoor peppers are propagated by seeds and cuttings.

Seeds are sown early, in February. Crops are kept warm in a south-facing window. For germination, a temperature of 22-25°C is required. After the shoots have appeared, the temperature is reduced to 16-20°C.

You can dive, but it is not necessary. When picked, seedlings stop their development. It is best to either sow in separate cups or, after two leaves appear, carefully pick them up without damaging the roots into separate containers.

As the pepper grows, it is transplanted into a larger pot using the transshipment method, being careful not to damage the small roots. It is believed that the size of the pot should approximately correspond to the size of the plant crown.

Of course, you can collect seeds from a fully ripened fruit and sow them. They retain germination well. But the result cannot always be predicted. Firstly, if the bag of purchased seeds had the designation F1, then this is a 1st generation hybrid and the “descendants” will be similar to the original varieties unknown to us. Secondly, if there were other peppers growing on the window or in the yard in the summer, then cross-pollination could occur, which would also give an unknown result.

This might interest you:

If you cannot buy seeds of your favorite variety, you can take cuttings from an adult plant and root them in a mixture of soil and sand (1:1). Side shoots with a “heel” take root best. Successful rooting requires warm soil and moisture. The cuttings are covered with film and the temperature is raised to 20-25 degrees.

Diseases and pests. Typical capsicum pests are mealybugs. With excessive substrate moisture, cold storage and deep planting, pepper develops root rot. In dry and warm air Peppers are affected by spider mites and aphids. published

It is important to obtain double benefits, as, for example, with indoor hot pepper - both beautiful and useful as a seasoning for cooking or canning. Potted hot pepper– worthy decoration kitchen window, the simultaneous flowering and fruiting of a compact bush makes it especially beautiful.
I invite you to the group on Subscribe.ru for summer residents and gardeners: "Country Hobbies"

What does a “scorching handsome man” look like?

The external characteristics of indoor pepper depend on varietal characteristics. The height of the bush can be from miniature - 15 cm, to decent - half a meter. The leaves of this pepper are small, the fruits are single or in bunches, located mainly at the ends of the branches. The shape of the fruits and their color also depend on the variety - round, pointed and ribbed peppers can have a color from white to brown, some varieties change color depending on the ripening of the fruit. At proper care indoor peppers take 4-5 years to grow.

The most the best way to get indoor peppers - take a pod from friends who already grow it or buy such a pod “from the bush” from a seller at the market or in a store. In these cases, the plant that is most similar to the “parent” is guaranteed to grow. Try it various varieties Growing from seeds is also interesting, but don’t be too upset if the promised “compact” bush grows into a meter-long tree or the color of the fruit differs from the picture on the packet of seeds.

Growing indoor peppers

Indoor peppers are planted in February or March. It is better to grow indoor peppers in a seedless way, since he does not like transplantation, and after such procedures he is sick for a long time. To grow peppers, you need to take a couple of pots with a volume of 1.5-2 liters, scald them with boiling water, make sure that there are drainage holes, place 3-4 cm of expanded clay or fragments from ceramic dishes on the bottom, fill them to the top with universal nutrient soil for vegetables crops

Place hatched or dry seeds in small holes, sprinkle 10 mm thick soil on top, water and leave in a bright, warm window. Before the sprouts appear, it is advisable to cover the top of the pots with plastic bags. Pepper is a heat-loving plant. All year round for his normal development And good fruiting the required air temperature is 22-24 degrees, and at night – 19-20.

Formation of a bush

To give the crown of the bush a rounded appearance at a height (depending on the variety) of 12-20 cm, the crown is pinched. After this, the side branches grow, from which 2-3 well-developed ones are selected, and the rest are also pinched. This is how the “skeleton” of the bush is formed, its main branches.

Indoor peppers can be placed next to other indoor plants. Among other things, this indoor vegetable improves the air around you, and ripe fruits can be used to treat the same indoor plants against pests - use an infusion of dried fruits, poured with boiling water at the rate of 1 part pepper to 10 parts water, infused for 24 hours. After treating plants with this infusion from a spray bottle, pests will not bother you. If there are several plants in the room, and pests have appeared on only one, it is better to treat them all - this way the likelihood of them appearing on other plants will be minimal.

On summer period The pepper bush can be moved to the balcony, placed with others for the balcony or separately. Pepper needs spring soil renewal every year. This is even taking into account that during the period active growth, flowering and fruiting, the bush is fertilized every two weeks universal fertilizer. To water peppers, it is better to use soft water, and if salt deposits occur, be sure to change the top layer of soil in the pot.

Dried peppers store seed material for three years, and since up to a hundred of them ripen on one bush in a year, everyone who wants to acquire indoor peppers will be provided with seeds.

Caring for indoor pepper is not much more difficult than caring for a ficus, for example, but its benefits are somewhat greater. Seasoning and raw materials for pest control, kitchen decoration, and simply a joy for the eyes and pride for the hostess - on the window it will definitely attract the attention of guests or passers-by.

Homeland of the plant. South and Central America.

Description.The genus consists of 700 annual or perennial shrubs with erect, branched stems that become woody with age and are covered with light brown bark. The leaves of decorative pepper or capsicum are oval or lanceolate, simple, dark green, up to 10 cm long. During the summer, small, white, star-shaped, single flowers appear on the tips of the shoots, in the axils of the leaves. The plant acquires its main attractiveness with the appearance of fruits - yellow, orange or red. At the same time, the plant may contain buds, flowers and ripened fruits. The variegated forms of pepper look very attractive.

Height. Decorative indoor pepper when grown in indoor culture this plant reaches a height of 30 - 60 cm.

Decorative pepper in a pot care

Temperature conditions . In spring and summer, the temperature is close to room temperature - from 18 to 22 ° C. If you lower the temperature during the fruiting period to 16 ° C, the pepper will slow down its development and remain attractive longer. During the rest period, the temperature should be 13 - 16 ° C, but not lower than this range.

Decorative pepper at home - lighting. Abundant flowering and, accordingly, fruiting depends on the amount of sunlight. Plants should be kept in a place where they will receive direct sunlight in the morning and evening; shade from the sun during hot daylight hours in spring and summer. In autumn and winter, maximum possible lighting.

Growing decorative pepper .Homemade decorative peppers are undemanding and at the same time very decorative. In the warm season, you can take the plant outside under protection from direct sun, strong wind and rain. The stems of young peppers are regularly pinched to produce a denser, branching plant. Using pruning, you can give the plant the desired shape, however modern varieties remain compact even without trimming.

Substrate. Nutrient soil with a high content of organic matter in the form of peat, leaf humus and rotted manure. The substrate must have good drainage - add coarse river sand to the mixture.

How to fertilize ornamental peppers. From spring to autumn, feed with fertilizers specially designed for peppers or tomatoes - they contain an increased amount of phosphorus. During the dormant period, do not feed.

Purpose.Decorative hot pepper is a very impressive indoor plant that decorates itself with white flowers, green, yellow, orange, red and even black fruits.

Flowering time. Summer.

Air humidity. It tolerates the atmosphere of residential premises well. Spray plants in the morning only if the air becomes too dry. Provide the plant with a well-ventilated area with good air circulation.

Soil moisture. Watering should be regular and abundant during the period of active growth. Excess moisture accumulated in the pan after watering should be removed after a few minutes. The soil should be evenly moist throughout the growing season. In autumn, watering is reduced and in the winter months the soil is dried to half its depth.

Transfer. If necessary, replanting is carried out in the spring, before flowering, approximately every 2 years.

Reproduction. It reproduces successfully using seeds sown in the spring. The seedlings are placed in a warm place with a temperature of about 20 ° C under a cover made of a transparent plastic cap. Germination occurs within 2 months. Sometimes propagated using stem cuttings.

The miniature indoor pepper grows well on the windowsill and is an excellent source of spices for preparing amazing dishes in the kitchen. Often used at home different kinds and varieties decorative culture. Decorative pepper is loved by many for its original appearance and ease of growing.

Description of the plant

The biological name of indoor pepper is capsicum. Often decorative indoors, although it is also possible to grow it in open ground. Such species are used as food and have some medicinal properties.

Ornamental peppers were brought from America and Asia. It contains a large number of nutrients and vitamins. In our country, peppers are mainly grown to obtain ornamental plant with beautiful leaves and less often for edible fruits.

Peppers in a pot come in a variety of shapes:

  • small;
  • large;
  • pointed;
  • rounded;
  • pear-shaped;
  • elongated.

Depending on the varietal qualities, the fruits can grow up or down. Growing ornamental peppers requires time and careful care.

Important! Ornamental peppers in pots can bear fruit at home for four years with proper care.

When growing peppers, there are some requirements for indoor conditions:

  1. The temperature in the room should be within 25 degrees Celsius.
  2. Air circulation.
  3. Sufficient lighting.
  4. Regular watering.
  5. Trimming.

Important: When flowers form, it is necessary to pinch the sprouts; this has a great effect on the formation of a beautiful, strong bush.

Caring for decorative peppers also involves pruning, which is carried out after flowering. Peppers are very demanding when it comes to fertilizing, so they should be fertilized about 2 times a week. In winter the plant does not require additional fertilizing and therefore regular watering and lighting are enough for him.

To stimulate the plant to grow, develop and bear fruit, it is recommended to replant it approximately once a year.

Selection of planting material

To obtain healthy plants First of all, you need to make a choice seed material. Ornamental peppers are best propagated by seeds; in order to understand how to grow plants from seeds, you need to take into account some points:

  1. Seeds are collected from dried fruits.
  2. Seeds should be collected from the bush you like, taking into account the shape of the fruit.

Hot pepper seeds, as a rule, can be stored for five years, but seeds collected a year before planting have the best germination rate. Therefore, it is better to plant seeds from last year, as this will ensure a good harvest.

Important! Seeds collected for storage should not have mechanical damage or signs of disease. Benign seed material should have a yellowish color.

Varieties differ in terms of ripening:

  • early ripeness;
  • medium ripeness;
  • late ripening.

Varieties early date When mature, they bear fruit 70–95 days after planting in pots. Peppers with mid-season varieties appear after 110 days, late ones - after 130 days.

The pepper bushes, which reach a height of 35 centimeters, amaze with their splendor. In general, the height of peppers grown in pots can vary from 20 to 100 cm in height.

Agrotechnics of cultivation

One pot is enough for planting. Planting consists of the following steps:

  1. Filling the bottom of the drainage container. Small expanded clay stones can be used as drainage.
  2. Backfilling soil with neutral acidity; specially purchased soil is best, since soil collected from the site may contain disease microbes or pest larvae that negatively affect seed germination.
  3. Before planting, the seeds are soaked in water at room temperature for about 2 hours. This time will be enough for swelling; biostimulants such as “EPIN” or “ZIRCON” can be added to the solution. These drugs stimulate the germination of healthy shoots.
  4. Distribution of seeds on the soil surface, maintaining the optimal distance between them. Seeds are planted in moist soil, but not wet.
  5. Sprinkle the seeds with soil to a depth of 50 millimeters.
  6. Moisten the soil with a spray bottle.
  7. Cover with film to create a greenhouse effect.

After the emergence of seedlings, they need to be regularly inspected and moistened, avoiding overwatering.

Every day the film should be lifted for some time, ventilation should be increased every day, and after strong young shoots appear, the greenhouse effect should be eliminated and the plants should be allowed to adapt to normal conditions.

As the above-ground mass of plants increases and when 2 true leaves appear, the peppers are transplanted to permanent place. If the plant is planted in a separate pot, then it should be transplanted into a container with a larger feeding area, this will ensure full growth and development of ornamental peppers.

In general, when growing ornamental peppers, you need to adhere to the following rule: “one plant - one pot.” Mass plantings are unacceptable for indoor peppers.

Stimulating flowering and fruiting

Care to stimulate peppers to produce flowers is the following:

  • to increase the number of ovaries, the pot with the plant should be shaken periodically;
  • providing access to sunlight;
  • ensuring systematic irrigation.

Important! Usually the first flowers on the peppers fall off, but then new ones appear that bear fruit, so you should not despair and continue to provide care.

Growing conditions

Ornamental pepper is demanding on the sun; if there is not enough sheet plates suffer and are damaged, as a result of which the plant may not develop and become deformed. Do not place pepper pots on shelves, refrigerators or cabinets. If there is not enough light, additional lighting should be provided.

Be sure to moisten the plant every day by spraying it with a spray bottle. The water should be at room temperature; the pepper does not tolerate refrigeration.

Between March and October, peppers should be fertilized; special fertilizers for nightshade crops are suitable for this plant. Fertilizers can be purchased at a specialty store and used according to the instructions on the package.

Around the end of summer, pruning can be done, but only if the pepper has formed rather long branches. The pepper bush should be pleasing to the eye and compact. When pruning, you do not need to touch the main trunk, otherwise this may lead to the death of the plant.

Caring for miniature peppers in winter

According to biological characteristics, decorative indoor pepper is perennial plant, which at good care can bear fruit for 4–5 years. The main care during this period is transshipment of plants in order to renew the soil. The soil needs to be updated every spring. For comfortable overwintering, there are three growing options:

  • after fruiting, collect seeds for propagation, and mature plant throw away;
  • to preserve it, it should be placed in a bright place and provided with regular watering;
  • to preserve an adult plant and obtain a harvest in winter time Additional lighting should be provided; for this, lamps are installed and fertilizing continues.

Conclusion

This paper discusses the main points of caring for and growing ornamental peppers at home. A bush of such a plant will delight you with its appearance and savory taste.