The end sides of the roof, which are formed by slopes, are called pediments. They are designed to protect the attic from snow, wind and rain. In addition to performing the function of protection, gables also serve as home decoration along with the roof.
The end sides of the roof, resulting in slopes. called the roof gable.
This project usually has different shapes: triangular (with three pediments), trapezoidal and so on (with four, five).
The gables at the roof can be built of brick immediately with the construction of the walls or when the project is completely ready; they are laid with bricks or covered with other materials for construction. In some cases, gables can be built before the installation of roof rafters. They can be made from wood or other materials.
Details you will need:
- Bricks.
- Reinforcing mesh.
- Ridge block.
- Sheathing bars.
How to make three gables with your own hands
The diagram of a roof with three pediments shows: 1 - rafters, 2 - transverse beams, 3 - oblong beams, 4 - ridge beam, 5 - vertical supports.
The construction of gables always requires attention, regardless of the timing of their construction. For example, if it is first planned to construct the roof of a house, the pediment will need to be covered with bricks or covered with planks in limited conditions.
If all three gables are to be built before the roof is built, there may be a risk of them falling, which may be facilitated by the wind. Also, it is possible to allow errors in the geometry of the pediment, which then leads to the execution of additional work that will be required to eliminate them. This is due to the fact that the rafters may not align correctly with the plane of the pediment. But in fact, this may be unsafe in the case where the walls of the pediment are considered a support for cross beams roofs.
In this case, the difference in the sizes of the two gables leads to a skew of the rafters. The device must be secured in construction work even before the roof is built. It is very important to do this, for example, if you plan to use three gables for the roof. This can help reduce the risk of them falling due to wind loads and save the house.
The height of the gable makes it possible to establish the practicality of the space in the attic. For example, if the attic space is intended to be used for housing in the future, the height of the roof from the attic floor to the ridge and gable should be approximately 2.5-3 meters. It is necessary to understand that it must be comfortable in order to live.
It is important to look at the material of the load-bearing walls and the foundation of the house if three brick gables are expected. It should be noted that in this case the load on the walls and foundation may become greater.
Gables can be built from brick or stone blocks immediately with the construction of walls.
This design does not experience any loads other than wind. But, this only applies, for example, if the roof rafters rest on it. You can secure the brick system by laying out pilasters or installing a transverse wall in the middle of the attic room. It can give the pediment the rigidity and necessary strength.
In the procedure for laying the pediment with bricks, the last Construction Materials you need to cut it at an angle on one side. This is necessary to ensure that the gap between the gable wall and the roof slope is as small as possible. Also, in order to provide greater structural strength, it will be necessary to lay a mesh of reinforcement into a wall built of brick, in accordance with the technology of strengthening brickwork.
There is no need to place doors or windows on the gable, for example, if repeated strong winds will blow from this side.
There must be a roof overhang over the gables. This is necessary to protect them from the influence of snow. The width of the overhang is set individually under any circumstances. The sheathing bars and ridge beams should be released to the required length.
Brick gable system
When is it supposed to be built brick walls, all three gables are also best made of brick. In the place where it is supposed to build the roof gables (the house from the end sides), you need to raise the brickwork by 2 rows, but now not by the entire thickness of the wall, but by the thickness of the gable wall.
Insulation scheme for a brick pediment.
The inner side of the wall thickness must be left free. This is necessary so that it is possible to lay the Mauerlat or to install an armored belt before the process of laying the Mauerlat.
The reinforced belt must be poured around the perimeter of the structure. In this way, a rigid system can be made that can interfere with the tensile efforts of the rafters. If it is intended to fill the reinforced belt only along the walls on which the rafters rest, their efforts may push the walls at the upper level apart. This does not lead to the most wonderful consequences. A solid reinforced reinforced concrete belt is able to perfectly cope with similar rafter forces.
To complete this roofing project, it is worth considering the following:
- Before making a structure of this type from brick, you need to install a rail in the middle of the end wall, the height of which will correspond to the height of the future ridge.
- Next you will need to stretch thin cords from the top of the rail to the corners of the wall. The finished result must be an isosceles triangle. This is important, for example, if the roof of the house begins to have the correct geometric shape.
- In any other situation, the batten must be placed in the place where the ridge is supposed to be installed.
- Brick laying must be carried out strictly within the boundaries of the stretched cords. In this case, the extreme edges of the bricks must take a shape that will correspond to the tensioned cord to which they are adjacent.
- By using this method in the future there will be no need to cut off excess parts of bricks or add bricks, while sealing large gaps.
- In the case of wide gables on a roof of great height, it is necessary to adjust the pilasters from the inside, which may be required to make the structure very strong.
gable finishing and roof appearance
Sheathing the pediment with plastic is done instantly, not difficult, and will also complement and decorate appearance the whole house.
The façade finishing of a building near the roof can be done using different materials. But before the final finishing, you will need to insulate the system. It will be necessary to lay a vapor-water barrier, for example, if the attic is intended to be used as a residential space.
All similar work must be carried out together with general roof insulation for attic space. In addition to insulation, you will need to perform hemming and a beautiful overhang. If you plan to have an attic in the attic, you can worry about installing a wide window, which will make it possible to fully illuminate the space inside the attic. Very often, the gables at the roof are finished with the same material as the house itself.
But a person who owns a house may not choose a similar common option. Today's materials that can be used for finishing make it possible to create a house with an exquisite design. For example, the same classic siding can be used in different colors and placed in different directions. This will help make the house individual, the project will be inimitable.
http://youtu.be/Hui71viyYKk
It doesn’t matter what form of roof the project is intended to be used with, thermal insulation is accomplished by applying the same rules that are necessary for insulating the attic roof and walls.
Also, an internal frame frame is manufactured. It is needed to contain mines. cotton wool or polystyrene foam panels.
Profiled timber from 100/150 mm - 641 000
Profiled timber from 150/150 mm - 689 000
The basic package includes (at the Client’s request, any changes are possible, including execution using frame technology):
Columnar foundation from bedside tables consisting of 4 blocks 200/200/400 mm (fastened together with cement mortar)
-Double strapping made of timber 100/150 mm
-The log house is made of profiled timber natural humidity(17 rows). Height from floor to ceiling on the first floor - 2.3-2.35 m, height from floor to ceiling in the attic - 2.2 m
- Floor joists - 50/150 mm in increments of 70 cm
-Rafter beams 50/150 mm
-Rafters 40/100 mm
-Roof ridge height 3.5 - 3.7 m
-The roof of the house is Ondulin, Ondutis is laid under Ondulin
- Subfloor - edged board (substandard)
-Finish floor inside the house - tongue and groove board 36-38 mm chamber drying
-The floor on the terrace is a tongue and groove board 27 mm
-The ceiling of the house is lined with dry clapboard
-The attic is lined with dry clapboard
- Sheathing of gables, corners of the house, cornices - coniferous lining of natural humidity
-Partitions inside the house - 1st floor - professional timber from 100/150, attic - frame
-Insulation of the ground floor floor - 100 mm "Izover" or "Knauf", laid "Stroyizol"
- Insulation of the ceiling of the first floor, as well as the attic - 50 mm "Izover" or "Knauf", laid "Stroyizol"
-Entrance door to the house - metal, the rest of the doors are paneled
-Windows are wooden, double, analogues of double-glazed windows
-Staircase in a house with carved balusters
-Delivery within 50 km from the Ring Road or MKAD
-Unloading the house and its installation at the Customer’s site
Wooden house with three gable roof
When talking about houses made of timber, one should take into account the variety of projects, each of which is original in its own way and bears the imprint of the taste and character of its owner. For admirers interesting solution You will surely like the house with three gables that we bring to your attention. It would seem that everything timber houses similar to each other - but this is not true at all. Each building has its own unique distinctive features and is equipped with a strong personality.
The project of a house with three gables and a terrace is one of those extraordinary design solutions that bring a special aesthetics to the implementation of the plan. Let's start with the fact that the presence of pediments completely changes the internal feeling of being in attic floor. A sloping ceiling requires special interior and furniture arrangement. For many, it is a romantic solution that gives a certain special comfort. Considering that in this project the attic is three separate rooms, romance in this project is the predominant factor.
The first floor is distinguished by rationality and functionality. Here you will find everything you need for a complete comfortable stay - a bright, cozy living room, a spacious kitchen, all the amenities and a hall. The staircase leading to the second floor is located right in the hall - it additionally serves as a decorative element.
Such a house is optimal for a family who loves and knows how to welcome guests. There is enough space for everyone in this house, and everyone will feel comfortable. We should not forget about the special atmosphere inherent in all wooden buildings - freshness and joy of life are constantly present in houses made of timber. This is due to the natural beauty of the material from which the house is built. We invite you to carefully familiarize yourself with this amazing project - it is worthy of it.
Question about how to make a pediment gable roof, inevitably arises both during the construction of a house and during repair and finishing work on the facade. In the first case, the house owner needs to understand all the nuances of the pediment design, and in the second, information about ways to improve or transform this part of the roof is required.
The pediment, as one of the important areas of the entire roof system, is an integral part of the exterior of the entire building, since, together with the wall decoration, it determines the appearance of the house and emphasizes it architectural style. Therefore, we will try to understand in detail what such a part of the building is, what gable designs are used, how its construction and subsequent finishing are usually carried out.
Materials for building a pediment
The pediment is the end side of the roof, bounded on both sides by the slopes of the rafter system, and resting on the wall from below. The pediment of a gable roof, as a rule, has the shape of an isosceles triangle, and in this case the slopes that form it have the same angle of steepness relative to the horizon.
In some cases, for aesthetic or structural reasons, a roof design is chosen with a ridge offset towards one of the walls. In this option, the roof slopes differ in both length and angle of steepness. The sides of the pediment triangle in any case repeat the location of the slopes of the rafter system.
The pediment can be built from a variety of materials, and which one to choose largely depends on the type and material of the building’s walls.
- If a house is built from brick or gas silicate blocks, then the gable part of the roof is often made of the same material and is simply a kind of figured continuation of the wall.
- When building a house from wood, they try to ensure that the pediment does not turn out to be too massive. Therefore, in such cases this architectural element executed from wooden frame, and then sheathed with boards, plywood (OSB) or siding. Sometimes some of these finishing materials are used in combination.
- Another version of the pediment is called chopped - it is installed on log house at home, also as a continuation of the wall.
The simplest version of the pediment and the most commonly used in the construction of private houses is the frame one. It can be called universal, since it is suitable for erection on a building whose walls are made of any materials.
If the house is intended for year-round living, and even more so when it is planned to make the attic space residential, no matter what the pediment is built from, it needs to provide not only reliable protection from precipitation and wind, but also high-quality, effective insulation.
Types of pediments according to the order of construction
Work on the construction of gables can be carried out before the construction of the rafter system or after its arrangement, and in this regard they are divided into two types.
- Pediments erected before the installation of the rafter system. This type of structure is typically raised from brick, block, logs, or timber.
When building gables of this type, the structure requires some additional temporary or permanent support, which is usually installed from the attic side.
This type of pediment design requires a special approach: high accuracy in calculations and extreme care during construction, since errors and errors can lead to difficulties or even impossibility of connection with the rafter system. However, there is another problem when constructing this part of the roof before installing the rafters - this is that both gables must have exactly the same shape and size in width and height, otherwise the rafter system will be skewed.
It is easier to cope with this task if the pediment is built from timber or logs; it is more difficult to work with bricks and blocks.
An approach that is often practiced is that the construction of the pediment walls is carried out in parallel with the installation of certain parts of the rafter system. This, in particular, is relevant when, according to the design of the roof structure, individual elements require walling up in gable wall or other technological connection with it. Examples of such details include floor beams, beams, rafters or ridge purlins running from one gable wall to another.
This approach is also used when the pediment begins to be erected after installing the last pair of rafter legs - then the task is somewhat simplified, since the “outlined boundary” of the triangular wall is already fully visible to the master.
Despite the more complex process to organize, some builders consider the pediment erected before the rafter system to be more convenient option, since work can be freely carried out from any side of the structure. However, to properly build this type of roof gable, you need to have some experience.
- Pediments installed after installation of the rafter system. This type of structure is much more often used in private construction and can be assembled when building houses from any material. It has become traditional for this approach frame option pediment.
This point is largely due to the fact that if you build a frame pediment before installing the rafters, it will not have proper lateral support, and under strong wind influence the risk of its collapse is very high.
The gable frame may have different designs, the choice of which depends on several factors - these include:
— heights truss structure in a skate;
- the planned presence and number of windows (sometimes doors) on the gable wall;
- features of the rafter system of a gable roof, since it can have slopes of the same or different sizes and steepness.
To complete the picture, it should be noted that gables with an already constructed rafter system can be erected from brick or gas silicate blocks. However, this option is only possible if the walls of the house are built from durable materials, have good load-bearing capacity and sufficient thickness - it should exceed the thickness of the wall of the future pediment by at least 50 mm.
A few questions about the basic calculations of the pediment
Even at the design stage of your building, and sometimes when planning work on the construction of a pediment, before preparing necessary materials, you will need to make certain geometric calculations, focusing on the initial design data.
These calculations are simple and include determining the height of the pediment at the ridge point, depending on the steepness of the roof slopes, or, conversely, determining the angle of the slope if the initial parameter is the height. And if you have the linear parameters of the receiving triangle, it is no longer difficult to calculate the total area of the pediment.
If the roof has the traditional shape of an isosceles triangle, then calculations can be made using the following geometric formulas:
H = ½×L×tga– determination of the height of the pediment based on the known angle of the slope;
tga = 2 ×H/L– determination of the angle of the triangle at the base (roof steepness).
S=H×L/2– calculation of the pediment area based on the base and height;
It is clear that if the pediment is made asymmetrical, then the calculations are carried out with appropriate amendments. So, each side will have its own slope angle ( a1 And a2), and instead of ( ½ × L) in the first formula it will be necessary to substitute the measured distance from the point of vertical projection of the ridge on the base of this triangle to the angle ( L1 And L2). This value can be called, for example, the length of the slope.
Design calculations usually begin with determining the height of the ridge (triangle of the pediment) H. This parameter will most often depend on what functions are planned to be assigned to the attic - whether it will be a full-fledged living room or will remain as a utility room.
If you plan to equip the attic full floor residential building (inhabited all-season attic), then the height of the ridge can vary from 2700 to 3500 or more millimeters, depending on the design of the ceiling.
When arranging utility rooms, a ridge height of 2000÷2500 mm will be quite sufficient.
When choosing the height of the pediment, it is necessary to take into account the fact that the general form buildings.
So, for example, if the height of the pediment significantly exceeds the height of the walls of the house, then the impression of heaviness will be created, as if the roof is pressing on the lower part of the building.
If the height of the ridge is small, then the house will look squat, which not everyone likes and is not suitable for all architectural styles.
That's why the best option The proportions of the ratio between the height of the pediment and the walls of the house will probably be approximately one to one.
In order not to force the reader to look for tabular values of tangents for independent calculations, below is a calculator that very accurately reflects the dependence of the height of the ridge (pediment) on the angle of inclination of the slope (a). The application allows you to solve two problems:
- If the slope angle is known in advance, then this is a direct calculation, that is, the answer will be the height of the pediment (in meters).
- If they start from the required height, then it is easy to enter the measured length in the slope value field once, then vary the slope angle in the corresponding input field so that the answer stops as close as possible to the required height. The gradation of angles on the slider is 1 degree, and this selection procedure itself will not take much time - it will literally take less than a minute.
Calculator for calculating the height of the pediment from the steepness of the slope and vice versa
I am glad to welcome everyone again to my website! This time I’ll tell you about how we built a multi-gable roof from the very beginning to the very end. The walls of the house were erected at the dacha of the wife's parents. The external size of the house is 9x11. By the way, I note that it seems that the area of a 9x11 house is the same as that of a 10x10 house, but no, the difference is a whole square meter- You can't fool mathematics. The walls of the house are made of foam concrete blocks. All four gables have been erected - accordingly, the roof turns out to be multi-gable. I’ll say right away that if you’re planning to make such a roof with your own hands, it’s better not to do it - you’ll suffer. It’s better to make a regular gable roof and get a bunch of advantages over a multi-gable roof. The only drawback of a double-slope compared to this complex roof This is the exterior of the house. Well, my wife’s parents have been hatching a “project” for their house for a long time, so it is not possible to convince them of anything. The builders announced 150,000 rubles for the work on the construction of this roof. There was no such money and the decision was made to build it ourselves. Three people participated in the construction: Father, son and son-in-law. The time spent on erecting a multi-gable roof is 17 days. Work schedule: seven days a week from 9:00 to 20:00. At the same time, we did not have time to hem the gables from below. Well, more on that another time.
If, despite reading above, you still want such a roof, then you have come to the right place! Below I will tell you and attach photos about the entire construction process. Let's begin.
Before starting work, we have four pediments made of foam blocks: 
As you can see, beams and boards are randomly thrown onto the ceiling of the first floor. For ease of installation, it is necessary to put all this in order. It was decided to immediately place the floor beams (beams 100x200) in their places at intervals of 600-800 mm, depending on the width of the first floor partitions: 
The beams were laid out, and roofing felt was placed in the places where the beams lay on the walls.
Next, the entire future sheathing (edged board 100x25 mm) was raised onto all the beams. This was necessary in order to make it convenient to work during the construction of the rafter system. That is, we get a full floor on the second floor. Thanks to this, we are able to use trestles and ladders. 
We are preparing to erect the rafters. In order to make it convenient and easy to install the rafters, we decided to install 100x100 mm guide beams. Since the maximum length ordinary timber is 6 meters and the dimensions of our house are 9x11, the cross was sewn into an overlap from 50x100 mm bars. These beams (we called them a cross) will ultimately not have any function in supporting the rafter system, or the entire roof as a whole. I’ll say right away that we thanked ourselves 100 times for this decision, otherwise everything would have been much more complicated. At the crosshairs of the cross, the beams were sawed into the floor of the beam. In this case, the long beam (11 m) is cut from the bottom, and the short beam (9 m) is cut from the top. Before installation, we checked the correctness of the cuts and “assembled” the cross. 
To install the cross, we prepared a rafter joint template made along the contour of the pediment bevels: 
Using this template, we screwed four support bars 50x100 mm, 200 mm long, to the wall. On these bars we first placed the long beam of the cross, and then the short one. Using stretched ropes from the four tops of the gables, we aligned the cross in a straight line and level, installing a temporary support in the center. 
After this, we install murlat on the straight sections of the pediment (house 9x11 meters). This murlat will hold straight and slanted rafters. To install the murlat, even at the stage of pouring the armored belt, two studs with a diameter of 12 mm were preinstalled: 
The pediment itself had to be sawed diagonally, since the angle would interfere with the installation of the oblique (bearing) rafters: 
We install the first and second rafters along the pediment (size 150x50 mm): 
Why are the first rafters installed so close to each other? This is due to the fact that the difference between the width and length of the house is 2 meters - one meter on each side. The sheathing will be extended beyond the pediment by 500 mm. The thickness of the gable wall is 300 mm, for a total of 800 mm. Accordingly, we are missing 200 mm to get that very meter of straight section of the roof. Since the first rafter is attached directly to the gable wall, the second one is needed 200 mm from the wall. Two opposite rafters for roof rigidity are connected by an additional jumper. Also, for the connection, you can immediately nail a beam that will serve as the ceiling (size 150x50 mm): 
Next we install the oblique rafter. Its length exceeds the standard 6 meters, so it was sewn into an overlap of two rafters measuring 150x50 mm. The top edge of the rafter lies on the cross: 
A cutout (“heel”) is made on the rafter for a more rigid attachment to the murlat: 
The lower end of the oblique rafter is adjacent to the side surface of the second rafter. The outer edge of the rafter is located at a distance of 50 cm from the wall: 
Next, we install all four oblique rafters. At the top of the roof you get this connection: 
After that, we begin to drive all the other rafters. We started making them from bottom to top at a distance of 67 cm from each other. The following are a series of photographs showing how it was all done: 
At the top, for rigidity, the rafters are connected by a jumper: 
In the center, jumpers are made on the diagonal rafters under each other: 
View from the street: 
Unfortunately, we spent a lot of time on these rafters, since we had to measure each of the rafters separately and saw them at the right angle for them to fit well with the slanting rafters.
Next, we began to sheathe everything that turned out with lathing. We left 80 mm between the sheathing boards. On the roof ridge, two boards are sewn almost tightly to each other - this is necessary so that later the iron roof ridge can be secured without any problems. 
The lathing was extended beyond the wall of the house by more than 50 cm. Subsequently, we marked 50 cm and cut the boards straight with a jigsaw. 
To give rigidity to the part of the sheathing that is exposed to the street, we screwed in guide rails. We will then attach the pediments to the same slats from below with iron: 
After all the sheathing has been nailed, sawed off, and hemmed with guide rails, you can begin to cover the roof with iron.
In order to save money, the parents decided to cover the roof with ordinary profile iron. In this case, it is possible to use iron scraps obtained as a result of cutting oblique corners. If there were metal tiles, then all the scraps would go in the trash. That is, you get double savings - the difference in price between metal tiles and iron and the absence of scraps going into the trash. Also, for metal tiles, you need to buy special gutters installed on slanting rafters, but they are not very cheap. In our case, instead of gutters, ordinary flat iron was purchased, painted the same color as the color of the profile iron.
Now, in order. We bend the gutters from ordinary iron. For bending, we used a piece of timber from the second floor: 
Next, we spread the vapor barrier film on the sheathing, fasten it with a construction stapler and place the bent gutters in the oblique corners of the roof. It looks like this: 
In order to prevent water from flowing into the very central point of the roof ridge, the gutter is bent onto the opposite roof slope; on the opposite side, the gutter is bent onto this roof slope. As a result, we get complete overlap of the upper corner joint and do this in a circle with the exception of the last (fourth) gutter. The fourth gutter is simply cut straight along the ridge: 
Don’t forget to release the bottom gutter so that the water in the future does not fall directly onto the sheathing, but flows directly into the gutter: 
After installing the gutter, we continue to lay the vapor barrier film on the roof. In this case, you must first lay the film, then lay a row of iron, then again the film, then again a row of iron. This is necessary so that you can calmly walk on the sheathing and conveniently install the iron. If you spread all the film at once, it will be much more difficult to walk on the roof, and not to mention the possibility of damaging the vapor barrier film.
Also, do not forget to install the “frontal” corners before spreading the vapor barrier film: 
Next we install the hardware: 
Do not forget that the vapor barrier film is thrown over the ridge and subsequently placed on top of the film of the opposite roof slope: 
After the iron has been installed on the entire roof, metal ridges can be installed. The most difficult place is the center of the roof top. This place is already covered with gutters, but I would like to cover it well with a ridge. How we did this can be seen in the photo below: 
Next I publish other photos of the upper part of the roof: 
Well, now what happened: 
And finally, photographs of the rafter system of a multi-gable roof from all sides from the inside: 
I hope this page will be useful to many!
If you have questions, ask them in the comments - I will be happy to answer them!
The previous article described the installation of a roof shaped like the letter “L” with identical gables. Let's now consider the case where the gables have different widths.
I want to show you right away what will happen if you start installing the roof in the same order as it was (see Fig. 1)
Picture 1
We see that one gable will be 6 meters wide, the other 7 meters. In this case, the angles of inclination of the rafters will not be the same, and this will lead to the fact that the ends of the rafters in the eaves will not coincide vertically (bottom figure). IN in this example the difference will be almost 10 cm.
In this case, you can go two ways:
1) One skate is made lower than the other. Moreover, such a roof already has three pediments (see Fig. 2):
Figure 2
We will talk about this design in the next article, using only the example of a T-shaped roof.
2) The roof is made by supporting the rafters on the floor beams. In this case, skates can be made at the same height. We will now consider this option.
A small digression. In this and the previous articles, I always talk about gables. But instead of gables there may be hips and. See, for example, Figure 3. Here everyone is free to fantasize.
Figure 3
So, our example:
STEP 1: We install floor and extension beams. (see Fig. 4):
Figure 4
STEP 2: We install corner offsets.
To do this, you first need to sew one wind board on the outer corner of the house box to find the corner of the cornice. Then we pull the lace between the outer and inner corners (see Fig. 5):
Figure 5
We do not sew all the wind boards at once, because they will get in the way when marking and installing the rafters of the slopes.
Figure 6
STEP 3: We install the ridge board and the rafters of the slopes (see Fig. 7):
Figure 7
STEP 4: We place the corner rafter on the outer corner of the house frame (see Fig. 8). This operation has also already been described in detail - step 8.
Figure 8
STEP 5: We manufacture and install a corner rafter in the valley. Just as we did in the last article, the halves of the corner rafters will be cut together, but by different amounts, since, let me remind you once again, the angles of inclination of the slopes converging in the valley are different.
So, we tighten the lace in the valley, as shown in Fig. 9:
Figure 9
Using a small tool, we measure the angle of the bottom cut of the corner rafter ʺαʺ (see Fig. 10):
Figure 10
Calculate the angle of the upper cut:
β = 90° - α
We take a small piece of board the size of the rafter and saw one end of it at an angle β. We apply it at the top of the valley, as shown in Fig. 11. We mark a line parallel to the ridge board on the right.
Figure 11
We make a gash and again, applying the template, measure the distance shown in Fig. 12:
Figure 12
Using an ax or chainsaw, we cut off the upper edge of the right half of the corner rafter to this distance, just as we did in the previous article ().
So, we know the angle of the lower cut, and there is a template for the upper cut. Now we measure the length of the rafters with a tape measure, make cuts and trim the top edge.
We mark the left half and make it in the same way. The size to which the top edge is cut will differ.
The result is shown in Fig. 13:
Figure 13
Oh, I also forgot to say that the lower end of both halves of the corner rafter will need to be filed down a little. In Figure 14, using the example of the right half, the cut location is shown (in blue):
