When you mention the honeysuckle plant, you will probably immediately imagine a lush bush strewn with healthy bluish-blue berries. However, the well-known genus of the honeysuckle family in nature is represented by such dissimilar plants that it is difficult to guess that they are the closest relatives of the popular garden culture sometimes it’s very difficult. Among them there are dwarf creeping shrubs and tall climbing giants, widely in demand in vertical gardening. One of decorative vines This species has remained a favorite of gardeners for several centuries. The name of the beautiful honeysuckle is honeysuckle, which means “goat leaf” in Latin. Apparently, horned gourmets are not at all averse to feasting on the juicy greens of the plant.

In the landscape, honeysuckle honeysuckle looks simply luxurious - a powerful deciduous shrub up to 6 m high with flexible climbing shoots and leathery dark green leaves, bluish on the inside. In May-June, in the axils of the upper leaves, fused into disc-shaped plates, bloom fragrant flowers original shape, collected in small bunches. Honeysuckle is also wonderfully good at the end of the season, when its fiery red inedible berries ripen. The vine decorated with beaded fruits remains elegant and lush until late autumn, shedding its leaves only with the onset of frost.

Landing dates

Honeysuckle honeysuckle is planted in the open ground of the middle zone as strong, healthy seedlings that have reached the age of 3–4 years. Best time for work - end of April - beginning of May. Good results Planting vines in the fall, during the period of mass leaf fall, also gives benefits.

Site preparation

In nature, honeysuckle lives in the Caucasus and Southern Europe, preferring to settle on sunny forest edges, which means that a warm, bright or slightly shaded place with drained, nutritious soil is suitable for it in the garden. 2 weeks before planting, dig up the area with the addition of rotted organic matter, nitrogen-containing and potassium fertilizers.

Landing in the ground

The technology for planting honeysuckle is as follows:

• Dig a pit measuring 0.5 x 0.5 x 0.5 m on the site. If you plan to arrange hedge, make a trench half a meter deep and the same width.
• Place drainage at the bottom of the pit: broken bricks, clay or ceramic shards, crushed stone or expanded clay.
• Fill the pit 2/3 with fertile soil.
• Place the seedling in the hole and dig it in, leaving the root collar 5 cm above the soil surface.
• Water the bush generously and, when the water is absorbed, sprinkle the tree trunk circle with mulching material: old peat, sawdust or humus.

In a group, honeysuckle vines are recommended to be placed at a distance of 1.5–2 m from each other, in a hedge - at intervals of 0.5–0.7 m. And, of course, do not forget to provide good support for the climbing shrub. If you are not going to give the plant a fence or building at its disposal, drive strong posts along the edges of the area and stretch nylon or metal mesh. From wooden slats or metal profile you can build an intricate support structure for the vine.

In the climate of the middle zone, honeysuckle honeysuckle, despite its southern origin, feels great, and therefore caring for it is extremely simple:

• Watering the vine should not be too frequent, but plentiful. Pour at least 15–20 liters of water under an adult specimen at a time. Make sure that the soil around the tree trunk always remains slightly moist, since honeysuckle does not like drought.
• After each rain or watering, the soil under the plant is carefully loosened, while weeds are pulled out. If you mulch the area with peat or humus, the need for frequent loosening and weeding will be reduced.
• Honeysuckle accepts fertilizing favorably and responds to it with abundant and long flowering, so in early spring, fill the soil with rotted mullein or complete mineral fertilizer for flowers. IN summer months It is recommended to spray the vine on the leaves with solutions of microfertilizers.

These easy procedures will help your beauty grow quickly and fully develop, but to maintain her attractiveness she will need timely and high-quality pruning. If you allow honeysuckle to grow spontaneously, very soon it will turn into a shaggy, shapeless lump, which will then be almost impossible to bring back to its proper form.

The liana is formed in stages:

• Immediately after planting, all branches of the seedling are shortened by 2/3 of the length.
• In the second year, only 3–4 of the strongest young shoots are left, and the rest are cut off at the root.
• During the summer, the branches of the plant are trimmed and directed along the support as necessary. Keep in mind that honeysuckle honeysuckle twists its “curls” counterclockwise.
• When the vine reaches the desired height, pinch the top to encourage the development of side branches.
• After wintering, shoots that are broken, diseased or thicken the bush are cut out. But! There is no need to rush into a spring haircut, since the external lifelessness of shoots can sometimes be deceptive.

Honeysuckle blossoms weakening year after year are a sure sign that it’s time to rejuvenate the vine. The procedure is carried out in 2 steps: in the first year, half of the branches are shortened to 10–15 cm, and in the next season the same is done with the remaining shoots. Very soon the buds located at the base of the plant will develop young shoots from which you can form a new one. beautiful liana. It is recommended to carry out a rejuvenating haircut of honeysuckle every 5–6 years.

In addition, radical pruning is also recommended for extremely neglected bushes. If for some reason you haven’t approached the vine with pruning shears for a long time and it has become like an unkempt “beard,” simply cut out the shoots and start shaping the crown next season.

Reproduction methods

Most gardeners prefer to propagate honeysuckle honeysuckle by vegetative methods:

• By cuttings: after flowering, several shoots are cut from the middle of the bush, cleared of leaves and cut so that each cutting has 2 internodes. The cuttings are rooted in a greenhouse, deepened to the first bud. In the spring of next year, the “youth” are transplanted into the flower garden.
• By layering- the most convenient way of reproduction. In spring, a flexible shoot of honeysuckle is bent to the ground, placed in a pre-dug groove, fixed and sprinkled nutritious soil. During the summer, the cuttings are watered and fed, and in September they are separated from the mother vine and replanted.

Seed growing of vines- the process is much longer and more labor-intensive, but in some cases this method is quite justified:

• In mid-July, seeds are removed from ripe berries, peeled from fruit pulp, washed and, after drying, stored in a paper bag at room temperature.
• At the end of December, the seeds are mixed with wet sand (1:3) and placed in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator for two months of stratification.
• In March, cold-treated seeds are embedded in a moist peat-sand mixture (1:1) to a depth of 0.9–1 cm and the crops are covered with film. The emergence of seedlings takes from 1.5 to 3 months.
• IN room conditions seedlings are grown until next spring, and with the onset of warm weather they are planted permanent place. Caring for them comes down to regular watering, ventilation and fertilizing. When the plants get stronger, they are plucked separate pots. Young vines will begin to bloom in the third or fourth year.

Honeysuckle can be sown immediately in open ground, before winter. Seeds are buried 1 cm into fertile soil without subsequent watering. Having frozen thoroughly, they will sprout in spring. The grown seedlings will only have to be planted so that they do not oppress each other.

Diseases and pests

Honeysuckle honeysuckle nature has not harmed the immune system, but even this hardy vine is sometimes affected by fungal infections, such as powdery mildew, which covers the plants with a bluish coating, and rust, which can be recognized by orange-brown spots on the surface of the leaves and poisonous red spore-bearing pads with their bottom side. It is very important to identify this or that infection at an early stage of development in order to destroy the pathogenic flora as soon as possible, otherwise the consequences may be irreversible. powdery mildew are treated with sulfur-containing fungicides, and against rust, plantings are treated with preparations that contain copper.

An adult specimen of honeysuckle honeysuckle does not need insulation for the winter, but varietal, hybrid and recently planted plants should be carefully prepared for the cold:

• Insulate the tree trunk circle with a thick layer of fallen leaves.
• Remove the lashes from the support, roll them into a ring and place them on a bed of dry leaves.
• Cover the plant with spruce paws or non-woven material.

In this form, your honeysuckle will safely survive the most severe cold. Don't worry if some annual shoots freeze - you will cut them off in the spring, and the bush will quickly recover. By the way, this method of winter shelter is also applicable to other decorative vines.

Types and varieties

Several varieties of honeysuckle honeysuckle are grown in floriculture:

• Alba is an early flowering liana with snow-white fragrant flowers;
• False-flowered - a plant with elegant pink-red inflorescences, but not as numerous as the previous form;
• Inga - collected in ears or heads delicate flowers painted in white, yellow, pink or red tones.

Quite often in botanical reference books and selling catalogs, fuchsia honeysuckle (Brown) and curly honeysuckle (German) are called honeysuckle, but this information is incorrect. The first variety is hybrid form, obtained as a result of crossing rough honeysuckle and evergreen honeysuckle, and the second represents an independent species of the honeysuckle family.

The best partners in the site for honeysuckle honeysuckle will be decorative conifers and beautiful flowering shrubs (weigela, holly-leaved mahonia, scumpia, deutzia, mock orange, climbing roses). If you want to confess your loyalty and constancy to someone, collect a small bouquet of fragrant flowers and present it as a gift to the object of your adoration, as medieval court ladies and gentlemen once did.

The typical variety of the Honeysuckle genus is honeysuckle honeysuckle, which has gained immense popularity in vertical gardening of personal plots. A climbing vine, glorified in many legends as a symbol of passion, devotion and highly decorative, will be a wonderful addition landscape composition garden or cozy courtyard.

Description of the plant

Honeysuckle honeysuckle, also known as fragrant honeysuckle, is a climbing shrub with a height of up to 6 m. Light green shoots covered with oppositely arranged sheet plates, in the upper axils of which yellow-white flowers are formed, change color to brown as they age. In place of fragrant flowers, during the fruiting period, which occurs in the second half of summer, red berries are formed on short stalks, which creates the appearance that the fruits are glued to the leaves.

The fragrant liana is presented in two decorative forms:

Alba - plants with white flowers that bloom half a month earlier than the type species;
few-flowered - plants with pink-red flowers, the number of which is much less than that of the main species or the above form.

Planting honeysuckle honeysuckle (Lonicera caprifolium) in open ground

In order for the ornamental shrub to retain its qualities, planting should be carried out in compliance with the basic rules.

Soil requirements, site selection

Honeysuckle honeysuckle feels good in sunny areas or with light shade; it prefers well-drained and fertile soil. The soil is prepared several weeks before planting the seedlings: organic and complex fertilizers are added for digging. mineral fertilizers in the form of compost, humus, azofoska.

How and when to plant shrubs

The optimal time for planting shrubs in open ground is the second half of spring after the threat of return frosts has passed. When the area is prepared:
1. Dig out planting pits with dimensions of 50x50 cm, at the bottom of which a drainage layer of broken brick is placed, covered with fertile soil to ⅔ of the volume.
2. If a hedge is planned, then the distance between future seedlings is maintained at 1 m, and for group plantings - 1.5 m.
3. Seedlings with straightened roots are placed on the ground and buried in such a way that the root collar rises 5 cm above the ground.
4. If there is no wall or fence nearby, a support in the form of metal or wooden slats is immediately dug in.
5. Tree trunk circle watered, after which the root collar is level with the ground level.

Propagation of fragrant liana

Multiply decorative culture You can use seeds, cuttings and layering.

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Honeysuckle honeysuckle is a beautiful flowering vine, ideal for vertical gardening and zoning summer cottage. You can use it to grow a nice hedge, create a cozy natural office around a bench, decorate an arch, a porch, and also hide a mesh fence from prying eyes or disguise an old building.

Description

Honeysuckle reaches a height of 3-6 m. Its young vines grow well upward and to the sides, and, interestingly, “play” in the sun with red-pink and purple shades.

The honey-bearing tubular inflorescences-whorls of honeysuckle are pink, yellow or white, and often have a purple tint on the outside. Its flowers with long stamens exude a pleasant delicate aroma, especially in the evenings, bloom one after another and live for only 3-4 days. But the entire bush blooms for about 3 weeks at the end of May - in the first half of summer, after which reddish inedible berries appear on it.

The ellipsoidal leaves of the plant are also very beautiful, large and thick, with an original coloring: dark green above, bluish below.

Besides, goat honeysuckle very unpretentious, tolerates pruning well, withstands frost down to -20...-25C. Its lifespan is at least 30-50 years.

Selection of seedlings

It is better to choose two-year or three-year-old seedlings with 2-3 branches with a diameter of 5 mm and a height of no more than 40 cm. The shoots should be flexible, not withered, with several living buds, without rot or other defects. But there is no need to be afraid of “peeling” of the young bark; this is a normal phenomenon for honeysuckle.

Usually honeysuckle is sold in containers, but you can also buy cheaper bare-rooted seedlings.

As for individual varieties, here, in addition to honeysuckle itself (form "white", "Inga", "few-flowered" etc.) also need to be mentioned climbing honeysuckle(including variety "Serotina"), yellow, Brown, Thalmann And Heckrott, and Japanese honeysuckle– all of them are perfect for vertical gardening.

Landing dates

The optimal time for planting honeysuckle lasts from the beginning of September until the end of the second ten days of October.

You can plant bushes in the spring, but this way they may take root less well. Honeysuckle wakes up early, with the onset of above-zero temperatures, so spring planting should be planned after the ground has thawed, but before the buds open (April).

• Select the most suitable day for planting honeysuckle by.

Landing area

For decorative honeysuckle, it is better to initially choose a permanent place, since it does not like transplanting. The plant feels comfortable in light, warm, loose and wind-protected areas, for example, near or against a wall at the eastern or southern end of a dacha. The bushes also grow in partial shade, however, their flowering will be worse this way.

• Important! When choosing a place, you should remember that honeysuckle definitely needs support.

In group plantings, honeysuckle is combined with herbaceous plants, conifers and with woody shrubs. Her friends are hydrangea, magnolia, spirea, and clematis. Also among good neighbors one can note rosehip, viburnum, heather, juniper, deutzia, garden jasmine and currants.

The soil

The crop is undemanding to soil, but best option– these are drained fertile sandy loams and loams, without the dominance of sand or clay.

Permissible acidity is within the pH range of 5.0-7.5. If the soil turns out to be acidified, then 200-400 g/sq.m. should be added 1-2 months before planting. m of dolomite or chalk.

In addition, although decorative honeysuckle loves watering, it does not tolerate close proximity to groundwater or stagnant runoff. To avoid waterlogging, it is better to install drainage.

Planting honeysuckle

1. A few days before planting, prepare a trench or holes 40-50 cm deep and 50 cm wide. Plan the gap between the bushes in the row to be an average of 1.5-2 m, and 2-3 m between the rows.

2. Place 10 cm of crushed stone, gravel or expanded clay at the bottom of the hole.

3. Prepare a substrate from fertile soil, old humus and sand (3:2:1 or 3:1:1, and organic matter should be from 10 kg / bush). Also add here 30-40 g of potassium sulfate, 70-100 g of superphosphate and 250 g. Instead of individual ingredients, you can mix 100 g of a “complex”, for example “OMU Universal”. If the soil is poor, then add up to 20-30 kg of organic matter per bush, and for another add 3-4 kg of clay.

4. Stir the mixture, then pour it into the hole and form a mound.

5. Check the seedlings again, remove broken and weak branches, shorten the remaining shoots to a strong bud, and the roots to 30 cm.

6. Place the seedling on the embankment in the center of the hole, straighten the roots, then water the first time (0.5 buckets/bush). Seedlings in containers can be soaked in advance by immersing them in water for 15 minutes.

7. Sprinkle everything on top with loose soil or the rest of the substrate and compact it. The root neck of honeysuckle, in contrast to edible honeysuckle, it is advisable to leave it at surface level.

8. Form a border around the bush, then water the plant again, adding 10 liters of water/bush. If the earth settles, add soil, controlling the level of the neck.

9. Finally, after planting, mulch everything with dry soil, old sawdust, chopped straw, humus or peat.

Honeysuckle honeysuckle care

Support

Young vines should be gradually lowered onto a suitable support to the desired height, evenly distributing the branches over the entire surface and twisting them counterclockwise.

Frame examples:

• - wooden trellis made from mounting slats;
• - long poles, dug in at the bottom, secured at the top with a “cone”, with tied cells made of PVC, branches, wire;
• - pillars with a mesh stretched between them;
• - row wooden structures the letter “A”, with a connecting horizontal pole over the top of all “letters”.

Watering

The soil under the bush should remain moderately moist. If there is no rain, plan the first irrigation after planting 5-7 days later. Subsequently, water the young crop once a week, and in hot weather - up to 2 times a week. Adult bushes can be moistened less often, 1-2 r. per month depending on the weather. Apply 10-20 liters per approach to the plant. water.

Weeding, loosening, mulching

After watering, it is recommended to carefully loosen the soil, not deeply, so as not to catch the roots, while simultaneously removing weeds. To level out the rapid evaporation of moisture and reduce the need for loosening, mulching is allowed.

Top dressing

The first two seasons after planting, honeysuckle does not need to be fed. In the future, it is fertilized once every 2-3 years:

• - in early spring they add ammonium nitrate 15-20 g/bush or urea 1 tbsp. l./bucket;
• — until mid-May, organic matter is appropriate (a bucket of diluted mullein 1:10 or a bucket);
• - in June - at the beginning of July add 1-2 times, to choose from: slurry(1:4) diluted in a bucket of water; NPK complex or nitroammophoska, 20-30 g/bucket;
• — in the fall, honeysuckle is fed with compost (5 kg/bush), possibly with the addition of 100 g of ash and 30-40 g of double superphosphate.

Wintering

Despite the varietal winter hardiness, it is better to insulate honeysuckle after the first frost. Only planted plants, as well as any hybrids, especially need shelter. Mulch the tree trunk circle with peat, dry leaves, sawdust or straw. Remove adult vines from their supports, place them on a mat of leaves and wrap them with spruce branches, lutrasil, etc.

Honeysuckle berries decorate the vine until winter.
The photo was taken at the end of November in the Leningrad region.

Trimming

The next year after planting, it is enough to leave 3-5 of the most powerful shoots, the rest can be cut off at the root.

Upon reaching 5-7 years of age, only sanitary pruning is desirable for honeysuckle. better in spring, after awakening the kidneys. To do this, remove frostbitten, shriveled, bare or broken branches that will not be able to produce new shoots.

Honeysuckle vines add 1-2 m per year. Therefore, with age, very elongated, low-growing or thickened areas should also be thinned out so that the plant looks neat and receives enough light. To stimulate the side vines, after reaching the desired height, you can trim the top of the main stem.

For an adult plant, rejuvenating pruning every 6-8 years will not hurt, especially if the bush has begun to bloom worse. To do this, cut all the shoots heavily to 15-40 cm from the ground and sprinkle the cuts with ash. It is better to do radical pruning in 2 stages: in the first season, cut out one half of the shoots, the next year - the second part.

Popular methods of reproduction

Cuttings. Before the end of flowering, cut off 10-12 cm branches with live buds, remove the lower leaves and the upper leaves by half. For a greenhouse, prepare a substrate of compost, garden soil, sand (1:1:1) or peat, soil and sand (2:1:2). Treat the cuttings with Kornevin and stick them into the ground, water and cover with jars or film, ventilate and spray daily.

Owners of personal plots and summer cottages have an undeniable advantage over owners of city apartments, which lies in the ability to organize and design their plot to their own taste. For these purposes, there are many decorative and fruit crops, but has a special place in this list climbing honeysuckle Honeysuckle.

Characteristic

This type is held in special esteem among ornamental shrubs, since the vine develops quite quickly, due to which, in just one season, it can entwin and decorate a fence, create a hedge, or act as another decorative element in the garden plot. For growing crops, the main importance is given to the creation of guides and supports for growth fragrant vine. Both jobs can be easily done with your own hands.

While creating the right conditions For a plant to develop, it can grow more than five meters in length, while its fences will literally be strewn with fragrant, beautiful flowers. Honeysuckle is not the result of the work of scientific breeders, since it is a botanical plant species that grows in the wild nature of certain regions. However, breeders took part in the widespread distribution of this honeysuckle variety, who, by crossing various types plants received a huge number of zoned crops. Thanks to which hybrids can now be planted not only in mild climates southern regions, but also subject to proper agricultural technology cultivate in northern regions Russia, in the Moscow region, Scandinavian countries or North America.

Even the name of the crop is quite unusual, since translated it means “goat leaf”. Honeysuckle performs an exclusively decorative task; its fruits cannot be eaten, so the vine is grown only to decorate the territory, which, however, does not in any way reduce its demand. On average, the length of the vine varies in the range of 4–6 meters. But this applies to already mature shrubs, since in one season it stretches by about 1–1.5 meters.

Only formed shoots of honeysuckle have a rather light color, but under the influence of ultraviolet radiation and warm air change it. As they grow, they become woody and a bark is formed. Over time, the bark may peel off, which is a natural process for the vine, and does not indicate the presence of any ailments. The lifespan of one plant is about 50 years. As practice shows, honeysuckle blooms and bears fruit already in the fourth year life cycle. The active growth phase of the vine occurs at the beginning of April and ends closer to autumn.

The flowering phase occurs in late spring or early summer. During this period, on the bushes in large quantities flowers are formed. They can be yellow, pink, white or a combination of colors. Some gardeners find external similarities between honeysuckle flowers and orchid flowers. Typically, the length of one flower is about 5 centimeters. The flowers are planted very close to the green mass of the bush, and the stamens stand out significantly from them.

No less attractive are the honeysuckle fruits that form after the flowering phase. Usually they are orange berries, collected together in several pieces. Honeysuckle flowers have the properties of a honey plant, making the vine a very useful neighbor for the apiary when it blooms. It is worth highlighting the following varieties of honeysuckle:

• a few-flowered vine does not stand out with a large number of flowers, which usually have a pink or red color;
• white honeysuckle has flowers of the same color.

In addition to the main species, gardeners are actively engaged in growing honeysuckle hybrids. Some of them are less resistant to weather conditions and therefore require special care when planted in the central and northern regions. Among the assortment available, one can highlight the “Inga” variety, which blooms with fragrant pink or beige flowers. As a result of crossing honeysuckle and Etruscan honeysuckle, Lonicera americanum was obtained, which grows well in southern climates and blooms with rich red buds. Honeysuckle "Gekrott" also owes its origin to honeysuckle.

Growing conditions

IN natural environment Honeysuckle is common in the Caucasus and southern Europe. Regarding cultivation in gardens and other areas, it is worth noting that this variety can grow in cool climates, but is completely unsuitable for cultivation in Siberia, given the sharply continental climate of these latitudes. Unfortunately, in a harsh winter the vine will not be able to maintain its viability.

Landing

Before you buy honeysuckle seedlings, you need to choose the right place for planting ornamental shrub. To accurately decide on a place, it is worth considering the following nuances:

• the selected area of ​​the garden must have supports, for example, a fence, pillar or wall of a building;
• as practice shows, honeysuckle reacts quite sharply to transplantation, so the place for the bush should be permanent;
• Before planting, it is necessary to carry out a number of mandatory preparatory measures regarding the quality of the soil, the illumination of the selected area, and others.

The optimal soil for the plant will be slightly alkaline soil with a good level of humus content. The development of vines worsens in dry and heavy soil. As for the level of light, the plant is a species that blooms better in sunny areas, so when planning and placing the crop, you should give preference to the south side of the territory. Honeysuckle does not bloom in shaded areas. In addition, the plant must be protected from cold winds and drafts.

An important point is the level of groundwater in the area. It is worth refusing to plant honeysuckle in soil with surface water, since their close location will provoke rotting of the root system of the bush. The recommended planting period is spring. Before winter, shrubs, as a rule, are not rooted, since a young and fragile vine will most likely die from frost, and having planted it in the spring, you can expect new shoots already in the first summer months. Despite the exotic nature of the fragrant vine, caring for it is no different from similar measures for other ornamental shrubs.

To root honeysuckle you will need to make a hole, the dimensions of which should be 0.5x0.5x0.5 meters. The released soil is mixed with organic fertilizers, such as manure or peat. There should be drainage at the bottom of the hole. Brick chips or gravel are suitable for these purposes.

If you plan to create an entire honeysuckle hedge, to plant plants on the site you need to dig a special trench for rooting several seedlings.

Planting technology involves performing the following sequential steps:

• if a honeysuckle seedling is planted, its roots are trimmed, the plant itself is placed in a recess in a vertical position;
• the root system is leveled so that there are no bends in the roots;
• the plant is moistened and then covered with earth;
• after using all the soil, you need to carry out another watering so that the soil subsides;
• The final stage is mulching the crop with any organic matter.

Care and reproduction

The easiest option for propagating a culture is to use planting material in the form of seeds. They are calibrated and then germinated. The formed sprouts are rooted into the ground. There is another option for preparing seeds - in February, the material is mixed with sand and sent to the refrigerator for two months. After their germination, the seeds are planted in the ground.

An equally popular method of cultivating honeysuckle is cuttings or propagation by cuttings. As a rule, the area is improved with cuttings in the spring or summer. They are planted in loose soil, leaving only one bud above the ground surface. In the summer months, cuttings are planted in a greenhouse, around July. For this purpose, material is selected on which several internodes have already formed. The culture is covered with glass, and after the leaves appear, it is removed. Honeysuckle needs daily moistening; during the winter, the soil around it is mulched, and with the arrival of spring, honeysuckle is planted in open ground.

Very the easy way, which is recommended for use by gardeners with minimal experience, is considered the tapping method. They are chosen in spring or autumn. The shoot is trimmed and buried in the ground. After the roots appear, the bush is separated from the parent. After that, he lands in his place.

Honeysuckle can not only be taken from cuttings, but also propagated by dividing the bush. This option is effective when the plant has become old and has become very thin. The positive aspect of this method is the possibility of planting the crop immediately into the ground. The shrub reproduces by cutting off a shoot that has root system. After its separation from the mother crop, the new vine will need to be pruned by about one-third.

Caring for a vine includes a number of mandatory tasks.

Selecting and creating a support

A specific feature of the plant is the ability to grow and develop only in the presence of objects on which it can cling. Such supports can be specially created gratings, pillars, trellises or walls of various structures, including residential buildings or terraces, gazebos, verandas. There are several nuances regarding the type of supports. First of all, the texture should be rough, which will contribute to better adhesion to the plant.

Introduction of fertilizers

The primary feeding of honeysuckle after planting on the ground should be done after 21 days. For these purposes, a balanced mineral complex, including potassium and nitrogen, will be optimal. Mature crops should be fertilized no more than once a season. It is more correct to apply fertilizing before the vine begins to flower, since nitrogen will have a positive effect on the growth of green mass of the plant.

Before the onset of cold weather, honeysuckle is fertilized by the root method; for this, wood ash is used, which will provide excellent vitamin support for the crop throughout the winter.

Shaping and pruning vines

Without regular and proper care, honeysuckle is unlikely to become a full-fledged decoration of the garden area. That is why the plant needs high-quality and timely pruning, which is due to the fact that the shrub grows quite quickly. The first pruning is necessary for the plant after planting in order to set the direction of the shoots based on the place where the shrub is planted. Next, the crop is refined every spring; during the work, the weaker parts of the bush are removed at the root, and green and powerful shoots are cut by about 1/3.

As advised experienced gardeners and designers, work related to the formation of the bush, which began soon after planting and is of a regular nature, will allow you to achieve a spectacular appearance of the plant, and also eliminate the development of honeysuckle diseases. Shrub pruning also includes sanitary measures. They consist of inspecting the shoots of the climbing vine and, if necessary, removing very old shoots. In addition, control optimal height achieved by trimming the top of the honeysuckle. In this case, the plant will begin to actively develop in different directions, focusing on the side shoots.

Watering the crop

Honeysuckle loves moisture, so the vine’s soil should always be moist, especially in hot weather. At normal temperature air, the plant can be watered once every seven days; in hot months, moisture should be introduced twice as often. A good level of moisture will not only allow the shrub to develop properly, but also extend its flowering period, which will increase decorative properties honeysuckle

It should be noted that after each injection of water under the root, the soil should be loosened to maintain aeration; in addition, a layer of mulch laid in the root zone of the bush will help retain moisture.

Preparing for winter

Concerning winter period in the southern and central regions, then in this area the plant demonstrates high winter hardiness; in the northern regions, plants die from severe frosts. But even in a more favorable climate, the vine requires shelter for the winter in order to be sure that it will withstand the frost period. Can be used as a covering material various materials, even cardboard, covering with fallen leaves or peat gives good results. The main thing is to focus on the root circle. In some cases, mature zoned honeysuckle varieties do without shelter for the winter.

Diseases and pests

Liana is not a delicate crop, but some pathogens still affect it.

• The main disease faced by honeysuckle is fungus. It is expressed in the formation of spots on the green mass of the bush. Most often, honeysuckle suffers from ramularia. In this case, the spots on the sheets are gray in color. Without timely treatment, the disease spreads throughout the plant and reaches the stems and petioles, which die due to the fungus. To combat the fungus, copper sulfate and Fundazol are used.
• No less dangerous for honeysuckle cercospora blight Its signs are red-brown dots. The plant is treated for this disease by spraying it with copper sulfate.
• Sometimes vine shoots strike tubercularosis, which curls the leaves, soon tubercles form on them, after which the fungus attacks the bark of the crop. Shoots with such symptoms should be cut off, the entire crop should be sprayed with copper sulfate, and scissors or pruners should be treated with disinfectants.

Some insects can also cause harm to the plant, for example, spider mites, ants, aphids, wireworms, codling moths and others. Shrews are no less dangerous to honeysuckle. The greatest damage to the crop is caused by aphids, because they gradually destroy the leaves of the bush. To destroy it they use chemicals, for example, "Eleksar" or "Aktellik". Spider mite settles on unkempt bushes. To combat this insect, treatment with Omaita is effective. As a preventive spray in spring period Honeysuckle is treated with copper sulfate.

The solution is prepared according to the following recipe: dissolve two tablespoons in one bucket of water copper sulfate, and then treat the plant, not leaving even the most inaccessible areas without attention.

Application in landscape design

When decorating garden plots and other public and private areas, most designers plant honeysuckle with hedges. Ideal option its creation will be the use of this particular ornamental shrub, since it grows quite quickly and has an exotic appearance. A climbing vine can become an attractive backdrop for arranging landscape accents; in addition, the crop combines well with other ornamental shrubs.

Honeysuckle can beautifully shade gazebos or decorate any buildings on the site.

Using a climbing vine, you can zone the garden space and create a unique landscape design or paradise in the territory.