How to grow fuchsia correctly. How to care for indoor fuchsia. If fuchsia doesn't bloom

Fuchsia (lat. Fuchsia)- a genus of perennials of the fireweed family, numbering about 100 species. In nature, the fuchsia flower is found in South and Central America, as well as in New Zealand, and is an evergreen shrub. The fuchsia plant received its name in honor of one of the “fathers of botany” Leonard von Fuchs. Indoor fuchsia, cultivated for over 200 years, is a hybrid fuchsia and its many forms and varieties. It has long been loved by flower growers, who affectionately call it the “Japanese lantern.”

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Planting and caring for fuchsia (in brief)

  • Bloom: in the spring.
  • Lighting: in the morning - bright diffused light, in the afternoon - partial shade (eastern or western window sill).
  • Temperature: in summer – no higher than 20 ˚C, in winter – no higher than 15 ˚C.
  • Watering: during the growth period - regular, but moderate, after the top layer of soil in the pot has dried. In winter, water 1-2 times a month.
  • Air humidity: It is recommended to spray the leaves in hot, dry times warm water or place the pot on a tray of wet pebbles.
  • Feeding: from March once every 10 days with fertilizers for flowering indoor plants. In winter, feeding is stopped.
  • Trimming: twice a year: after the end of the growing season (early October) and in winter (early January).
  • Rest period: late autumn and winter.
  • Transfer: annually in the spring.
  • Reproduction: seeds and cuttings.
  • Pests: aphids, whiteflies, spider mites.
  • Diseases: rust, powdery mildew, root rot.

Read more about growing fuchsia below.

Homemade fuchsia - description of cultivation

In nature, fuchsia looks like a shrub with flexible branches. Fuchsia leaves, green or slightly reddish, oval, opposite, slightly pointed and jagged at the edges. Fuchsia blooms profusely and for a long time with drooping flowers, consisting of a bright calyx and a tubular corolla with bent edges. The calyx lobes are longer than the petals, and the stamens are longer than the calyx. Fuchsia flowers are on long stalks, the color of the flowers is pink, white, red, orange, cream, lilac, violet - sometimes three different shades per flower. The fruit is an edible berry.

The plant is so plastic that it can be given any shape - ampelous, bushy, pyramidal, or grown as a standard tree. Besides, different varieties fuchsias bloom in different time flowers of various colors, and you have the opportunity to create a collection of fuchsias that will bloom from early spring to late autumn. Fuchsias differ in flowering time, flower color and type. For example: flowers are simple (not double), varieties: Brutus, Winston Churchill, Bon Accord; semi-double flowers, varieties: Tennessee Walts, Snowcup, Satellite; terry – Midge, Swingtime, Fashion; racemes - Leverkusen, Swanley Yellow.

Caring for home fuchsia

How to care for fuchsia at home

Caring for fuchsia at home is surprisingly simple. It should be remembered that fuchsia prefers cool rooms in which the temperature does not rise above 20 ºC. In summer. In winter, the temperature should not exceed 15 ºC. The best place, which could be occupied by fuchsia at home, is the eastern or northern window sill. If the apartment is too stuffy in the summer, it is better to take the plant out onto the balcony or into the yard and find a well-lit place for it, where the sun's rays reach only in the morning. At noon and until evening, fuchsia prefers partial shade. Watering should be regular and sufficient during the period of growth and flowering. You need to water after the top layer of soil has dried, but make sure that there is no stagnation of moisture in the roots. Water for irrigation must be settled or filtered. In late autumn, watering is reduced, and in winter they are watered 1-2 times a month. To avoid overheating of the roots in the summer heat, it would be a good idea to grow fuchsia in a thick ceramic pot. Spraying your beauty with water in the summer will greatly refresh your beauty, achieve required humidity air can also be achieved by placing the fuchsia pot on a tray with wet pebbles.

Fuchsia fertilizer

Fuchsias growing in open ground, it is better to feed with biological fertilizers. Fuchsia at home responds well to ready-made fertilizing complex fertilizers For flowering plants, which are applied once every two weeks during the growing season. These fertilizers, as a rule, do not have a nitrogen component or it is very insignificant. In the winter months, a dormant period begins, and the plant will not need feeding.

Fuchsia transplant

Fuchsia needs annual replanting, which is carried out in the spring. The substrate used is a mixture of turf, leaf soil, peat, sand and humus in equal parts. A drainage layer, for example, made of expanded clay, is required. It is best to replant fuchsia using the transfer method: pour a little soil mixture into the pot on the drainage layer, then transfer the plant there along with a lump of earth, then fill the voids with the soil mixture. The transplanted fuchsia is placed in a well-lit place, the stems are cut to one third of the length, sprayed and watered well. If you do everything right, fuchsia will bloom profusely.

Pruning home fuchsia

Experts suggest trimming indoor fuchsia twice a year: at the end growing season- at the beginning of October, and in winter - at the very beginning of January. The first pruning involves removing all faded branches at a height of 2 cm from the dormant buds located in the axils, which are easy to detect by carefully examining each branch. After pruning, you can begin removing pests, seed pods you don't want, and spent flower stalks. The second pruning is carried out in January and represents the final formation of the plant crown.

Propagation of home fuchsia

Propagation of fuchsia by seeds

Fuchsia grown from seeds rarely retains the characteristics of the original plant, so this method is interesting only for those gardeners who are keen on breeding experiments. The complexity of this method lies in the need to exclude self-pollination of fuchsia and pollination of the plant by insects. To do this, the anthers of the still unopened flower are removed, and the pollen of the parent plant is applied to the stigma of the pistil. After this, a cover is put on the flower to isolate it from insects. You can make a cover from paper or fabric, securing it below the flower with threads. When the fruit is ripe, it is carefully cut, the seeds are removed and dried for a day or two. Fuchsia seeds are sown on top of a moist substrate without covering it, then the container is placed in a greenhouse and kept in good light and room temperature. Shoots will appear in a couple of weeks, after one and a half to two months the seedlings are planted more spaciously (dive), and after another couple of months the young plants are planted in separate pots. Accustom seedlings to environment it is necessary gradually, opening the greenhouse slightly for a while, otherwise unadapted seedlings after being placed in ordinary room conditions may die.

Propagation of fuchsia by cuttings

And yet the most reliable way Propagation of fuchsia is vegetative, namely by cuttings, since it can be used at any time of the year, but it is still wiser to propagate fuchsia in the spring. It is best to take young cuttings, since woody cuttings take root and grow for too long. The length of the cutting should be on average 10-20 cm, the leaves at the bottom of the cutting are removed, the remaining ones are shortened by half. Use filtered water for rooting and cover the cuttings placed in the water. plastic bag or plastic bottle. The roots of the cuttings may appear as early as the fourth day, or even on the tenth. Do not wait until long roots grow; plant the cuttings in the substrate as soon as the first young roots appear. There are daredevils among flower growers who plant fuchsia cuttings in the ground immediately, bypassing the stage of rooting them in water. But greenhouse conditions It is necessary to create cuttings in any case.

Fuchsia in winter

Fuchsia in winter gradually moves into a dormant period, which is necessary for almost any plant. If she rests fully and restores her wasted strength, then you can hope for abundant and long flowering next year. To prepare the plant for rest, it is necessary to gradually reduce watering of the fuchsia, stop applying fertilizers and, finally, move the pot with the plant to a cooler room with an air temperature of 10-15ºC, where the fuchsia will overwinter. In an ordinary city apartment, a loggia or balcony can be used as such a room, provided that they are covered with glazed frames and insulated.

Experienced flower growers are probably familiar with such a plant as fuchsia. Among the features of this flower, it is worth highlighting the elegant appearance, as well as a long flowering period. However, for many, this plant is interesting for its unpretentiousness, so if you have planting material, you can grow fuchsia even without special knowledge, ready to please the owner with bright flowers.

Description, main varieties and types

Depending on the characteristics, fuchsia may take the form hanging plant, shrub or low-growing tree. In development forms flexible shoots, which provide a cascading crown. The leaves have small sizes and reach a length of 5 cm, the characteristic color is bright green, oval in shape, with a pointed end.

Fuchsia may have flowers different shades, ranging from white and pink to blue and purple. Among them there are some that are quite amazing in their shape: in the form of bells or dancing ballerinas. This pronounced decorative effect is explained by the unusual structure of the flower. The petals are formed from a tubular corolla and, at the stage of full opening, form fluffy skirts, reminiscent of a group of dancers. The long stamens complementing them are very similar to slender legs dressed in pointe shoes.

Popular varieties

Wide species diversity this plant did not go unnoticed by breeders, and subsequently they served as the basis for the development of new varieties and hybrids. For home grown are intended mainly hybrid forms. Depending on height The following types of fuchsia are distinguished:

  • bush. They have smooth shoots that face upward;
  • ampelous. They form flexible stems that are cascading;
  • hanging-bush. To give them a characteristic shape, they need support so that long stems can be tied to it.

Within the framework of bush fuchsias, the following varieties can be distinguished, which most often used for growing in floor containers:

Many gardeners often choose to grow at home and ampel varieties of fuchsia. The latter attract attention by curling and hanging from hanging baskets and pots of shoots. The most popular of them are the following:

  • Hollies Beauty. During flowering, double white-pink flowers are formed;
  • Prince of Peace. This variety is decorated with flowers formed by white sepals and a red skirt;
  • Blue Angel. The originality of this variety is given by flowers having a lilac-violet color, which is effectively complemented by white sepals;
  • Imperial Crown. It produces scarlet-colored flowers with an elongated shape, which are presented in the form of brushes.

Caring for a plant at home

The usual habitat of this plant is South America and New Zealand where it grows in conditions high humidity air. Accordingly, the same care must be provided to fuchsias in a city apartment, for which it is necessary to carry out regular spraying. Mandatory for normal development perennial is replanting and pruning. Fuchsia is sensitive to lighting, so moving a pot with a flower to another place or even turning it can greatly affect its development.

If the fuchsia was purchased in a pot with enough space for growth, then replanting will not be necessary. If everything points to the opposite, then it is recommended to find a more suitable plant for spacious capacity. It is best to replant fuchsia in a light container. Due to the improved reflective ability of such a container, the plant will be protected from overheating.

In the future, the plant should be replanted annually. Before performing this operation, the following preparatory measures must be carried out:

  • preventive and stimulating pruning. Healthy shoots are cut by one third, and old, dry and too elongated shoots must be completely removed;
  • checking the condition of the rhizome. Based on its results, you can understand whether the plant has signs of disease or rotting. Identified affected areas must be trimmed back to healthy tissue;
  • laying drainage in a container prepared for transplantation. It is recommended that it occupy at least 1/5 of the height of the pot.

After planting, fuchsia must water and spray well. Feeding can be done only three weeks after transplantation.

Soil composition and soil fertilizers

Fuchsia can grow in almost any soil. Therefore, before transplanting, the pot can be filled with a universal earth mixture for indoor plants. However, the plant will feel best in soil with a loose structure, for which it will not hurt to add sand, peat or ash. If you plan to independently prepare the soil mixture for replanting, then you can add include the following components:

  • leaf soil, peat, sand (in ratios 3:2:1);
  • turf soil, humus, peat, compost (2:1:1:1).

When the plant begins to grow after transplantation, as well as during flowering, it is necessary to fertilize with complex mineral fertilizers once a week. These can be drugs such as “Kemir”, “Effekton”, “Pokon for geraniums”. Fertilizers are applied to the soil for the first time in March. Gradually their number is increased. As autumn approaches, the volume of fertilizers applied is reduced, and in winter they must be completely eliminated.

Pruning fuchsia

It is necessary to prune ampelous fuchsia throughout the entire growing season. Without this it is impossible to create favorable conditions for normal growth and abundant flowering. For the first time fuchsia is necessary pinch after rooting the cuttings. In the future, it should be pruned throughout the spring until it enters the flowering phase. In summer, you need to pay attention to the longest shoots, which will begin to bloom in the fall.

To create a beautiful crown, it is necessary to trim the side shoots located above every 2-4 pairs of leaves. As a result of this procedure, the plant will be able to acquire a standard form. But this is only possible if there is a support to which the central shoot will have to be tied, while the side branches must be removed.

Watering and lighting

The plant grows and develops well if it is watered in moderation. During the entire growing season, it is necessary to maintain optimal soil moisture in the pot, but the water in it should not stagnate. During care after the next watering, you must wait 15 minutes, and then drain the remaining water formed in the pan. With the onset of autumn, the number of waterings is reduced to 1-2 times a month. In winter, fuchsia does not need to be watered.

To create the most favorable conditions for plant development, it is desirable to maintain elevated air humidity conditions. To do this, in addition to watering, it is necessary to spray the leaves. An effective measure is to place a container filled with water near the pot.

Fuchsia loves moderate heat conditions and also responds well to diffused lighting. However, it does not tolerate shading. It is advisable to place the flower pot on the balcony or on the western or eastern side, where it will be provided with sunlight in the mornings or evenings.

Optimal temperature

In order for fuchsia not only to grow well, but also to form many inflorescences, it needs to be provided corresponding temperature regime . Favorable temperatures for it are + 20.. + 22 degrees Celsius during the day and + 16... + 18 degrees Celsius at night. If the ambient temperature is higher than recommended, the gardener runs the risk of not waiting for flowering, and may also encounter such an unpleasant phenomenon as dropping leaves. On particularly hot days, the plant requires additional moisture, for which it is recommended to spray with settled cool water.

Fuchsia begins to feel bad even with good care if the temperature does not reach the recommended level. Therefore, in winter, to protect against cold weather, it is recommended to place polystyrene foam or a wooden plank under the pot.

If you want this perennial to produce many flowers every season, then you need to provide it with proper care. If such a need arises, you can get from it and planting material for reproduction. There are many possibilities for this, since young plants can be obtained both from seeds and from cuttings and leaves.

Propagation by seeds

If you decide to get new fuchsia seedlings from seeds at home, keep in mind that this process will require a lot of time and effort. First of all, you need to stock up on quality seeds. To do this, you need to constantly monitor the condition of the mother plant, preventing its flower from self-pollinating. This can be done by carrying out the following activities:

  • removing anthers from a recently opened flower;
  • transfer of pollen from the paternal plant to the stigma;
  • protecting flowers after pollination by covering them with a fabric or paper bag.

After a couple of weeks, the fruit reaches the maturity stage. After opening it, take out the seeds and let them dry for several days. For planting, use shallow containers filled with moist substrate. Seeds should be placed on the surface of the soil.

After sowing, the bowls with seeds must be transferred to the greenhouse, where they should be created optimal temperature And good lighting. After 10-15 days it happens seed germination. After another 1.5 months, the time comes to pick the seedlings. Subsequently, the young seedlings are hardened, for which they need to be taken out into fresh air for a while. The first time, hardening should be short - no more than 15 minutes, but later the residence time of the seedlings is increased. After another two months, the seedlings are transplanted into separate pots.

Conclusion

Fuchsia is deservedly popular among many gardeners. Such increased interest in it is primarily due to its unpretentiousness. Not to mention the fact that it blooms very profusely, and if necessary, it can be propagated without much difficulty. However, as is the case with other indoor plants, you can propagate fuchsia at home only if you necessary measures. Therefore, if you prepare the flower itself accordingly, select the optimal soil composition, and also create favorable conditions for rooting and growth, then you can count on the fuchsia to quickly take root and very soon begin to bloom profusely.

Fuchsia flower









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Ornamental plant of the fireweed family. The tropical forests of the New World are considered to be its homeland, in particular it is found in Central and South America, on the islands of New Zealand, and Tahiti.

The family includes up to 100 species. The name fuchsia was given to the flower in honor of the German botanist and breeder Fuchs.

Fuchsia began its popularity in the 18th century, where it was brought from Chile to England and subsequently to the European continent. Thanks to its unique color, it quickly attracted the interest of breeders, who later bred a large number of varieties with different colors and shapes of flowers.

The plant creeps or grows as a bush. Thanks to its unpretentiousness and easy care, the flower has become popular among amateur gardeners.

The function is grown in the form of an ampelous and standard tree. But still, a number of features and care nuances exist.

Fuchsia description

IN natural environment It occurs as a small tree, shrub and subshrub. The leaves are whorled or opposite, lanceolate in shape, pointed at the end on long petioles. Along sheet plate there is a central vein, from which less distinct veins extend evenly to the sides. Drooping flowers in the form of bells, or lanterns, consist of long stamens that fall outward.

Many hybrid species are known with velvety, leathery, or smooth leaves, of a single or variegated color. Depending on the species, the flowers are solitary or collected in a small inflorescence.

The flowering period is long, from the beginning of spring until the first frost. The flower is well suited for growing in apartments and gardens, and as a decoration for balconies and verandas.

The flower is heat-loving and does not tolerate frost, but in regions with a warm climate, fuchsia can be planted in the garden by digging the pot into the ground, protecting it from direct sunlight. In summer you can plant in home flower garden, where fuchsia will delight your eye with long-lasting flowering.

Plants overwinter in winter gardens or cool rooms.

Types of fuchsia

Fuchsia: growing and care at home

How to grow fuchsia at home, methods of propagation and care difficulties.

Lighting: The plant prefers moderate diffused light. Exposure to direct sunlight during lunchtime can cause burns. Grows well on the eastern and western sides without shading. On windows with southern exposure, it requires mandatory dining shading. The north side may not provide the required amount of light; for this purpose, additional artificial lighting, otherwise the fuchsia will stretch out and the flowering will weaken. During the flowering period, it is not recommended to turn the pot or move it to another place; it can throw off leaves and buds. In the summer, fuchsia is often taken out into the garden in the open air. They are gradually accustomed to sunlight.

Bush fuchsia can partially tolerate sunlight, unlike the ampelous one, for which bright light is contraindicated.

Temperature: During the active growth period, the optimal temperature is 18-25 °C. Gardeners often take out flowering pots to the garden in the open air. You can take it out onto the balcony, but in the absence of drafts. Wind and direct sun also adversely affect flowering.

IN winter period, the pot is transferred to a well-lit, cool room, at a temperature of 5-10 ° C; winter gardens are excellent. At temperatures of 16 °C and above, fuchsia is able to overwinter, but it will definitely shed its leaves and shoots will stretch out. It is extremely difficult to tolerate drafts and often dies, but an influx of fresh air is necessary. Ventilate the room regularly.

Watering: Starting from spring and before the first frost, fuchsia is watered intensively, but after the top layer of soil has dried. Stagnation of water in the pan is dangerous for the roots and they will begin to rot. Use settled, soft water. You can use rainy ones or specially purchased ones. Drying out the soil in the pot is also not acceptable; try to keep the substrate constantly moist. For abundant and lush flowering, at the beginning of summer, watering is slightly reduced. And starting from October-November, they reduce it significantly, or even stop altogether.

During wintering at low temperatures, water very rarely. And if kept in a room at a temperature above 16 °C in winter, it is necessary to water frequently, otherwise the soil will dry out and the plant will die.

Humidity: The plant prefers high humidity with leaf misting. During the hot period, spraying is carried out 3 times, in the morning and in the evening. With the onset of cold weather, they stop and the humidity is slightly reduced. Be sure to use warm and soft water for spraying, otherwise spots will appear on the surface of the leaves and flowers and the fuchsia will lose its decorative effect.

Soil: The plant does not require special soil. Store-bought slightly acidic will do. ready mix for blooming ornamental plants. Acidity is usually 5.5-6 pH. To prepare the soil yourself you will need: peat (2 hours), leaf soil (3 hours), sand (1 hour). You can use clay-based soil: clay (3 hours), turf soil (3 hours), greenhouse soil and sand 1 hour each.

Transplantation: Replantation is carried out every year in the spring, after cutting off the flower. To remove moisture, 1/3 of expanded clay is poured onto the bottom as drainage. After transplantation, the fuchsia is watered abundantly and placed in a well-lit place.

In the summer, if desired, the plant can be replanted again. New nutrient soil will add splendor to flowering.

Reproduction: Fuchsia propagates by cuttings and seeds. Let's look at each method in more detail. Let's say right away that the first one is simpler, more effective and popular, in contrast to propagation by seeds.

Cuttings.

The entire procedure for quick rooting is carried out in the spring. Young shoots are used as cuttings. Unlike the old ones, they will take root faster and you will have to wait less.

The cuttings are cut to 10 cm, with 2-3 leaves, all other leaves are cut off, especially those that come into contact with water, otherwise they will begin to rot. The finished cutting is placed in a glass of water. There is no point in using additional stimulants; it will take root well enough. You can root cuttings by cutting off all the leaves. Cover the top of the container glass jar

or a plastic bag, creating a mini climate. The temperature is 16-18 °C with constant high humidity. Water with soft water without lime and chlorine.

After a few days, the first roots should appear, and full-fledged roots for transplanting into the ground will form after 2-3 weeks.

Instead of water, you can root the cuttings directly in the soil or sand.

Reproduction in early autumn is rarely carried out; the plant is less willing to take root.

When the young shoots grow up, they are transplanted into a large pot. To create the splendor of the bush, plant several pieces together. For better branching, the tops are pinched several times over the summer. Seeds. Seed propagation rarely carried out, only as an experiment or selection. You can pollinate two plants with each other different colors

, resulting in your own unique hybrid look.

It is necessary to carry out artificial pollination, excluding self-pollination; for this, the anther is torn off, and pollen of the required variety is added to the stamen. The bud is covered with gauze and wrapped with thread or elastic.

After a few weeks, the fruit is ripe, it is cut and the seeds are removed. The seeds are dried and sown in the ground. Best period

- early March.

The container (small wooden box) is covered with film or a glass jar on top. Can be placed in a mini greenhouse. It is necessary to provide long-term lighting, avoiding direct sunlight. The temperature is kept at 18-20 degrees.

Ventilate the container regularly. Water only with soft water from a spray bottle.

At high humidity, the first shoots will appear after 2 weeks.

Gradually the sprouts are accustomed to room setting removing the film, leaving more and more time open every day.

As soon as the young fuchsia sprouts grow and become stronger, they are planted in separate containers. Nutritious soil is used for adult flowers. For the splendor of the bush, several sprouts are planted together.

Feeding: During the growing season, fuchsia is fertilized with purchased mineral and organic complex fertilizers for ornamental flowering plants 2 times a month. During the dormant period, the flower does not need fertilizer.

Wintering functions

Before wintering, fuchsia must be cut and kept at low temperatures - 10 degrees. Cut shoots can be used as cuttings for rooting. Cut off 1/3 of the length of the shoots, from which cuttings up to 10 cm long are cut. This perennial, which at proper care It will live a long time and bloom profusely. Remove all dry and rotten leaves.

For wintering, fuchsia is moved to the basement, or winter Garden with a low temperature of 6-10 degrees. There is practically no watering.

Fuchsia can overwinter in both light and dark rooms.

In early spring, after proper winter maintenance, the plant begins to grow intensively and blooms profusely.

In the spring, all bare stems are cut almost in half; young shoots will appear on them, on which lush flowering will form.

For shaping from fuchsia decorative tree, it is necessary to cut off all the side shoots for a long time and when the main trunk grows to the desired height, cut off the top and you will have a lush crown. It will take 3-4 years for the tree to form.

Pests and diseases: The plant is resistant to diseases, but is often attacked by pests: aphids, spider mites, whiteflies.

Difficulties in caring for fuchsia

  • During active growth, for lush flowering, necessary constant influx fresh air.
  • In winter, fuchsia dropped all its leaves - this often happens when kept in a warm room where the temperature is above 10-14 degrees.
  • Short flowering period - care rules are violated. Excessive watering and heat wintering. In summer, there is a lack of fertilizers and a dry earthen lump.
  • Falling leaves in summer - insufficient watering, low humidity, or insufficient lighting (with the exception of hanging species).
  • When turning or moving the pot to another place, the buds will fall off.
  • Falling buds - insufficient lighting and disrupted watering regime (insufficient or excessive).
  • Dark spots on leaves in winter - abundant watering at low temperatures.
  • Pale leaves and thin shoots - lack of sunlight, resulting in poor flowering.
  • Small flowers and spots on the leaves are due to direct sunlight.
  • If the pot is too big, this may be the reason for the lack of flowering.
  • Top dressing nitrogen fertilizers promotes lush landscaping, but has a negative effect on flowering.
  • Lack of phosphorus and potassium - little or no flowering.

Most of you know that the fuchsia flower is famous for its excellent decorative properties and extreme whimsicality to the conditions of its growth. Although experienced flower growers talk about what to grow indoor flower fuchsia couldn’t be easier and is a real pleasure. What is the catch here and how to properly organize care, read in this article. Photos of fuchsia at its various stages of development are also presented to your attention.

Now let's move on to the description of fuchsia, which shows the main agrotechnical characteristics of the flower. The genus Fuchsia, which includes about 100 species, belongs to the fireweed family. In nature, plants grow in Central and South America, partly on the islands of New Zealand and Tahiti. The genus is named after the German physician and botanist L. Fuchs (1501-1566).

Above are the photos. homemade fuchsia various types, varieties and degree of development of the vegetative mass.

Indoor fuchsia

IN indoor culture hybrid fuchsia (Fuchsia hybrida) is grown. This plant is of great interest due to its abundant and long flowering from spring to late autumn. Indoor fuchsia is selected in such a way that the species has the required degree of resistance to lack of sunlight and low level air humidity.

Currently, there are hundreds of varieties with semi-double and double flowers, differing in the number of corolla petals and color.

Fuchsia varieties

At home, various varieties of fuchsia are used for cultivation, which are represented by hanging and erect crops.

Variety "Aretes Upright Ernie"- semi-ampel fuchsia. Sepals are red. The skirt is white with dark pink streaks. The flowers are large, double.

Fuchsia varieties "Quasan"- ampelous fuchsia. The sepals are white with green tips. The skirt is lavender with a pink base of the petals, sometimes with white strokes on the petals. The flowers are very large, double.

Fuchsia "Thalia"- an upright growing bush, numerous flowers, simple, with long tubes, orange-red.

Fuchsia variety "Jack of Heart"- large double flowers with thick pink tubes, pink sepals, numerous white petals, with pink veins.

Chillerton Beauty- a compact plant with small leaves, simple flowers, with pale pink tubes and sepals, with purple petals.

Fuchsia "Ariel"- flowers are single, very small, pink.

Growing conditions

The plant is light-loving; with a lack of light, it stretches out and does not bloom. Tolerates morning and evening sun well, but requires protection from direct midday sunlight. Keep at a moderate air temperature of no higher than 20°C, in winter - at 6-10°C. In summer, the plant feels great in the fresh air.

Caring for fuchsia at home

Water abundantly from spring to autumn. During the period of active growth, caring for fuchsia at home includes such an important event as spraying the leaves. Replant in the spring into a soil mixture consisting of clay and turf soil, humus with the addition of peat and sand (1: 1: 2: 0.5: 0.5). At the same time, the shoots are cut to a third of their length, forming a crown. Young plants are formed by regularly pinching.

In winter, fuchsias are completely dormant. During this time, they should be kept in a cool room, preferably in the basement. In early spring, they are brought into rooms, trimmed, removed from pots and, after loosening the old lump, transplanted into a moderately large container with greenhouse soil. The plants are then placed in a sunny window. In a bright place when spraying in sunny days fuchsias quickly produce young shoots that soon begin to bloom.

With the onset of constant warm weather, fuchsias are taken out into the air. Place them in the garden, in a slightly shaded area, or on balconies and outside window sills that receive full morning sun. Here the fuchsias are replanted again during the summer. Water them abundantly and feed them with liquid complex mineral fertilizer from time to time.

Fuchsia propagation

Rapid propagation of fuchsia by cuttings and seed method is available. Fuchsia cuttings are taken in February-March. The length of the cutting should be 5-7 cm. They take root easily in water, sand or any loose substrate. At room temperature, roots form in 20-25 days. Rooted cuttings are planted in pots with a diameter of 7-9 cm, which are filled with a mixture of turf and leaf soil, humus and sand, taken in equal quantities. In order to receive further lush bush, rooted cuttings are planted several in each pot. Young plants bloom the same year. During the summer, the tops of the shoots are pinched several times. It is preferable to cut slow-growing varieties in August.

Diseases and pests

Most often plants are damaged spider mite and whitefly.