• Bloom: usually in autumn or winter.
• Lighting: bright diffused light - western or eastern window sills.
• Temperature: in summer - 20-23 ˚C in autumn and spring - 15-18 ˚C, in winter - 3-8 ˚C.
• Watering: during the period of active growth - at least 2 times a week: the substrate in the pot should be slightly moist all the time.
• Air humidity: morning and evening spraying from a spray bottle is recommended.
• Feeding: during the period of active growth, an adult chrysanthemum is fed with mineral fertilizers every 10 days. When feeding with organic solutions in low concentrations, intervals of 4 days are observed. When buds begin to form, feeding is stopped.
• Rest period: after flowering is completed, you need to trim the shoots and place the pot in a cool, dark place with a temperature of 2-3 ˚C until spring, when the plant begins to produce new shoots.
• Transfer: young plants - annually at the beginning of active growth. Adult plants are replanted once every 2-3 years.
• Reproduction: cuttings, dividing the bush, rarely – seeds.
• Pests: aphids, chrysanthemum nematodes, thrips and slobbering pennies.
• Diseases: affected by powdery mildew, septoria and gray rot.

Read more about growing chrysanthemums below.

Home flower chrysanthemum - features

Homemade chrysanthemum is not large in size, since it is grown by artificially stopping its growth with specially developed preparations. Although there have been cases where a purchased cutting of a home chrysanthemum produced a garden-sized plant.

Typically, indoor chrysanthemums are low-growing varieties of mulberry chrysanthemum, or Chinese chrysanthemum, which are abundant flowering bushes height from 15 to 70 cm. Their flowers can be small, up to 2.5 cm in diameter, or large - up to 5 cm in diameter, in addition, varieties of home chrysanthemum differ in the shape of the flowers. In addition to Chinese chrysanthemum, varieties of Korean and Indian chrysanthemums are grown at home.

Chrysanthemums usually bloom at home in autumn and winter, but in order for its flowering to last as long as possible, you should create a optimal conditions and follow certain rules of care.

Caring for chrysanthemums at home

How to care for chrysanthemums.

What maintenance conditions does home chrysanthemum require? How to care for chrysanthemums in an apartment? Firstly, you need to set a temperature regime that is comfortable for it, secondly, maintain the required level of illumination, and thirdly, maintain an optimal water balance for the flower.

It is difficult to call chrysanthemum a heat-loving plant, so in summer it feels best at a temperature of 20-23 ºC, in autumn-spring - at 15-18 ºC, and in winter at 3-8 ºC. It is under this temperature regime that many buds are formed, and chrysanthemum flowering is long and abundant.

As for lighting, growing chrysanthemums in a pot is carried out on window sills oriented to the east or west, since on southern windows the flowers can wither from excess sun, and on northern windows they bloom poorly. But chrysanthemums in pots feel best on cool, but well-lit verandas, balconies and loggias, and with the onset of real warmth, it is advisable to take the chrysanthemum out into the yard.

During the period of active growth, you will need to pinch and trim the chrysanthemum to form a thick and lush bush. In addition, it is necessary to regularly remove wilted inflorescences and yellowed leaves.

Watering chrysanthemums.

Successful cultivation of chrysanthemums requires, first of all, proper watering. Chrysanthemum is moisture-loving, so the soil in its pot should be slightly moist all the time. Caring for chrysanthemums at home involves moistening the soil during the period of active growth at least twice a week. Make sure that the earthen ball does not dry out, but you should also not allow excess moisture in the pot and tray.

In hot weather, it is advisable to spray the chrysanthemum in the morning or in the evening from a spray bottle. This is not to say that the flower needs spraying so much, but this procedure refreshes the plant and adds to its attractiveness.

Transplanting chrysanthemums.

Caring for home chrysanthemums in pots involves annually replanting young plants into a large container. Adult chrysanthemums, if necessary, can be replanted once every two to three years. As a substrate, you can use a mixture of ordinary garden soil, turf, humus and white sand in a ratio of 4:4:1:1, and in order for the chrysanthemum to bloom abundantly, a little bird droppings should be added to the soil mixture. Do not plant chrysanthemum in acidic soil, it does not like it. Before filling a new pot with soil mixture, a layer of drainage should be placed in it, and the substrate should be poured with boiling water and dried.

Feeding chrysanthemums.

Caring for home chrysanthemums requires adding fertilizer to the substrate. The plant responds well to complex mineral supplements, since potassium and phosphorus stimulate flowering. In order for the plant to bloom as early as possible, it is fed with a solution of potassium monophosphate in a ratio of 1:10 or any other complex fertilizer, in which the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium will be 1:3:2. Chrysanthemum also reacts well to liquid organic matter. An adult flower requires mineral fertilizers to be added to the soil every 10 days, and a mullein solution (1 part of fertilizer dissolved in 10 liters of water) should be applied at intervals of 4 days. Feed the chrysanthemum until the formation of buds.

Caring for chrysanthemums after flowering.

As soon as the chrysanthemum fades, it needs to be put into a dormant state. Trim its shoots and place the pot with the plant in the cellar, where the chrysanthemum will wait for spring at a temperature of +2 to -3 ºC. As soon as the chrysanthemum begins to produce new shoots, it will need to be transplanted into a larger container and returned to its previous conditions.

Propagation of chrysanthemums in the apartment

Propagation of chrysanthemum by cuttings.

The easiest way to propagate home chrysanthemums is with green, non-lignified cuttings. To use cuttings, side shoots about 10 cm long are cut from the branch, the leaves are removed from their lower part and then the cuttings are placed in water so that they grow roots. As soon as the length of the roots reaches 4-5 cm, they are planted several at a time in pots with a drainage layer and a substrate of neutral or slightly alkaline reaction, the soil around them is compacted and watered. In order to stimulate the growth of side shoots, the tops of the cuttings are pinched.

You can plant the cuttings directly into the ground, bypassing the stage of growing roots in water, but in this case you need to cover the pot with the cuttings with a plastic cap to create a greenhouse effect. The cap is removed for a while every day for ventilation and condensation is removed from it. As soon as the leaves of the cuttings restore turgor, and this is a sure sign that rooting has occurred, the cap can be removed.

Propagation of chrysanthemums by dividing the bush.

During the next chrysanthemum transplant, it can be propagated by dividing the bush. The bush is removed from the pot and carefully released root system from the soil, wash and divide the plant with a sterile instrument so that each part has several shoots and well-developed roots. Cuts on the roots are treated with crushed coal. Planting chrysanthemums after division is carried out in the same way as we have already described.

Growing chrysanthemums from seeds.

How to grow chrysanthemums from seeds? Korean varieties and hybrids are best propagated by seed. Sow chrysanthemum seeds in shallow containers with a drainage layer and a substrate fried at a temperature of 110-130º, consisting of peat and humus in equal parts. You can also use store-bought as a substrate. flower ground, which should also be disinfected before planting. Close up the seeds perennial varieties not necessary, they are only lightly pressed to the soil, sprayed with a spray bottle and covered with glass or film. Keep crops at a temperature of 23-25 ​​ºC, ventilating, removing condensation from the coating and moistening the surface of the substrate as soon as the need arises.

Shoots should appear in 1.5-2 weeks, and as soon as this happens, the boxes are transferred to the brightest place. The film is not removed from the crops immediately, but gradually increasing the duration of the ventilation sessions until the seedlings adapt to the room conditions.

At the stage of development of 2-4 true leaves, chrysanthemum seedlings are planted in separate containers with drainage and a substrate of the same composition, trying not to damage the roots. After transplantation, young plants are sprayed with a solution of Zircon or Epin-Extra so that they quickly take root and begin to develop. Subsequently, the temperature of the seedlings is lowered to 16-18 ºC and they continue to be cared for as adult plants.

As you can see, planting and caring for chrysanthemums at home is not at all difficult, while the pleasure of seeing blooming chrysanthemums in your apartment can hardly be overestimated.

Pests and diseases of chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemum diseases.

In inappropriate conditions and improper care chrysanthemum can get powdery mildew, septoria and gray rot.

Powdery mildew appears as a loose whitish coating on the leaves, petioles and shoots of the plant. As the disease progresses, the plaque becomes denser, turns brown, and the chrysanthemum loses its decorative effect. The fungi that cause the disease are destroyed by treating the plant with solutions of Fundazol, Topsin, Topaz, Skor or other fungicidal drugs.

Septoria is also a fungal disease that can be diagnosed by grey-brown or rusty spots with a yellow outline that appear on the leaves of the plant. These spots grow over the entire surface of the leaf, and in their center black dots appear - pycnidia of the fungus. Affected leaves and shoots dry out, the stems become brown, wrinkle and bend. The diseased plant should be isolated, all affected leaves and shoots should be removed, and then treated with a solution of Kuproxat, Oksikhom or copper sulfate. The chrysanthemum should remain in quarantine until you are sure it is healthy.

Gray mold, or botrytis, is also fungal in nature, but getting rid of this disease is more difficult than powdery mildew or septoria. The disease covers the ground organs with a gray fluffy coating, under which the plant tissues die. Botrytis is destroyed with Bordeaux mixture, and it is better to treat the plant with this drug before flowering begins.

Chrysanthemum pests.

Among the pests that pose a danger to chrysanthemums are aphids, chrysanthemum nematodes, thrips and slobbering pennies.

Aphids, thrips and pennies are sucking pests that feed on plant cell sap. They are destroyed by treating the chrysanthemum with insectoacaricidal preparations such as Actellik, Derris, Confidor, Biotlin or Aktara.

As for the nematode, it is a tiny thread-like worm and its presence on chrysanthemum cannot be detected. The damage to the plant by nematodes may be indicated by the appearance of white mosaic spots between the veins of the lower leaves, which gradually turn brown. Subsequently, the leaves curl, dry out and fall off, and mosaic spots begin to appear on the upper leaves. Infection of domestic chrysanthemums with nematodes can occur through soil that has not been disinfected. Unfortunately, you will not be able to save the plant from death, so it must be destroyed along with the soil in which it grew.

Types and varieties of home chrysanthemums

As we have already mentioned, in indoor culture They grow low-growing and dwarf varieties and hybrids of Chinese, Korean and Indian chrysanthemums. Moreover, the founders of all modern varieties are the Indian chrysanthemum, or small-flowered, and the mulberry-leaved, or large-flowered, or Chinese chrysanthemum. The Korean chrysanthemum is of hybrid origin, although no one has seen the mulberry chrysanthemum growing in nature either. It should be said that the past of the garden chrysanthemum is dark and confusing, and therefore it is better not to delve into it. We offer you a description of the most popular of these days. existing varieties domestic chrysanthemum:

• – Malchish-Kibalchish– the height of the bush is no more than 30 cm, and the diameter can reach 60 cm. This is a profusely blooming chrysanthemum with single chamomile-type inflorescences up to 7 cm in diameter, pink-lilac in color;
• – Evening lights– the height of the compact bush is about 35 cm. The inflorescences are simple, up to 5.5 cm in diameter, red with a yellow ring around the middle;
• – First snow– the diameter of a profusely flowering bush is about half a meter, height no more than 35 cm. The inflorescences are white, semi-double, up to 5 cm in diameter;
• – Mascot– the bush does not exceed 25 cm in height. This variety has small dark crimson inflorescences with a diameter of up to 2 cm;
• – Cheburashka– compact hemispherical bushes up to 40 cm high with lilac double inflorescences up to 4 cm in diameter;
• – Varvara- a bush up to 40 cm high, blooming so profusely that sometimes the leaves are not visible due to the pinkish-lilac double inflorescences with a yellow center;
• – Flamingo- a bush up to half a meter high with soft pink flowers up to 7.5 cm in diameter. Towards the center of the flower the shade becomes more intense;
• – Pink-cream– bushes up to 50 cm high with densely double inflorescences up to 8 cm in diameter of a lilac-pink hue, which becomes creamy pink over time;
• – Leaf fall– a chameleon plant up to 45 cm high with inflorescences up to 7 cm in diameter, red-pink in color, changing color to flesh-yellow;
• – Raspberry pompom – dwarf variety up to 30 cm high with pink-crimson hemispherical inflorescences up to 6 cm in diameter;
• – Okishor- a low but powerful bush, reaching a height of 50 cm, with lilac-pink inflorescences up to 8 cm in diameter;
• – Syaivo– a variety of Ukrainian selection up to 60 cm high with large egg-yellow inflorescences up to 8 cm in diameter;
• – apple blossom– bushes no more than 50 cm high with thick, strong shoots and pinkish-white double inflorescences up to 8 cm in diameter.

Chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum) is one of the most popular and beloved flowers by gardeners. It looks beautiful in autumn bouquets, blooms for a long time, and has bright inflorescences of various colors. You can also find the plant on summer cottage, and in home flowerpots, where it can decorate the interior of any room. After all, along with some other flowers (rose, gerbera, etc.), chrysanthemum can be grown not only as garden plant, but also in a pot at home.

Chrysanthemums belong to herbaceous annual and perennial plants of the Asteraceae (Asteraceae) family, which has 29 species. Their representatives have been growing in areas with temperate and cool climates for a thousand years, mainly in Asia (China). In Europe, chrysanthemums began to be cultivated as garden and indoor flowers in the 17th century.

The chrysanthemum is a symbol of the imperial family in Japan, the highest order is named after it. Only the imperial family had the right to wear clothes with a chrysanthemum embroidered on it. The Japanese also call the ninth month after her.

In China, the flower refers to medicinal plants. Medicines are prepared from it to treat the gastrointestinal tract, eye diseases, migraines and nervous disorders.

Appearance and useful properties

Large and medium-sized chrysanthemum flowers are terry and daisy-shaped and are painted in such bright, rich tones of the most beautiful shades white, pink, yellow, lilac and purple that you can look at them endlessly. There are two-color specimens, which are also difficult to take your eyes off.

The flower has the property of releasing beneficial phytoncides, which purify the surrounding air from gases and harmful impurities emitted by appliances and finishing equipment operating in the apartment. building materials. It is useful to inhale the aroma of chrysanthemum - its smell heals nerves and calms a person.

Which type to choose in the store

For home care, purchase only a potted variety of chrysanthemum, which is fully adapted for home growing. Be careful when choosing a variety. Indeed, in nurseries and greenhouses where chrysanthemums are grown for sale, their growth is artificially inhibited with special preparations (however, without compromising their decorative properties) so that the bush looks neat and compact. If you accidentally buy a garden specimen, you will be very surprised when your little one turns into a huge bush.

For home grown you need to choose a bush of one of four types: Chinese, Indian, Korean or Shrubby.

Chinese

Chrysanthemum "Chinese" is a low-growing perennial plant with a height of 30 to 130 cm. It has strong, erect shoots with fleshy oval or lanceolate leaves up to 7 cm long. It has large double inflorescences-baskets with a bright aroma.

Indian

Chrysanthemum "Indian" is ideal for growing in pots. The most popular varieties of this species: “Aurora”, “Altgold”, “Snow Elf”, “Ellen” and others.

Korean

Chrysanthemum "Korean" - blooming bright inflorescences in the form of balls. Popular varieties from Korean chrysanthemums: “Navare”, “Orange Jam”, “Stella”.

Shrub

Chrysanthemum "Bush" is an evergreen shrub that reaches a height of one meter. It was brought from the Canary Islands. The shoots are erect and the leaves are divided. The stipules have irregularly shaped lobes. The inflorescences look like simple large baskets with a diameter of 5 cm. Grows well in room conditions.

Common indoor chrysanthemums are low-growing and dwarf varieties. This is a bush, the height of which ranges from 15 to 100 cm. The root system of the plant develops superficially. It is highly branched. Light green leaves, dissected, notched or jagged in shape, arranged alternately. Small-flowered chrysanthemum of Indian origin blooms profusely with small flowers up to 2.5 cm in diameter, collected in a rosette and creating beautiful dense inflorescences. The Chinese (mulberry-leaved) variety has large flowers, up to 5 cm in diameter. After flowering, fruits with seeds ripen. Flower shape different varieties Chrysanthemums also come in different varieties - double or simple.

The most popular varieties

Breeders have developed many varieties of indoor chrysanthemums. All of them can be divided into four groups:

• Herbaceous varieties - up to 35 cm high, have large dark green leaves with double or simple flowers with a diameter of about 5 cm;
• Varieties of spherical chrysanthemum - from 30 to 60 cm in height. They have many small leaves and flowers, no more than 2.5 cm in diameter;
• Shrub-shaped varieties - up to 50 cm in height, carved leaves, large simple flowers up to 7 cm in diameter;
• Varieties of cascading chrysanthemums have hanging shoots strewn with daisy-like flowers, the diameter of the flowers is 4 cm.

Malchish-Kibalchish Evening lights First snow Dune Zorka

Chrysanthemum "Malchish-Kibalchish" grows no higher than 50 cm in height. The bush is spreading - it grows up to 60 cm in width. It blooms profusely with flowers of rich red, sometimes lilac, color, similar to daisies. The variety is early, unpretentious, blooms profusely, and frost-resistant.

Chrysanthemum Korean "Evening Lights"- compact bush, about 35 cm in height. It blooms with large, up to 5.5 cm in diameter, simple red flowers with a yellow center.

Chrysanthemum “First Snow”. The height of the bush can be up to 35 cm, and its width is up to half a meter. The bush is voluminous, but strong and does not fall apart. It blooms with large, up to 5 cm in diameter, semi-double flowers of bright white color from the second half of August for 30 - 40 days.

Variety "Dune" it reaches 50 cm in height and is the same in width. Very early variety. The flowers are large, up to 7 cm in diameter, yellow-brown in color. Interestingly, as the flower opens, its color changes from reddish-yellow-brown to pure golden yellow.

Chrysanthemum "Dawn"- a bush up to half a meter high, double inflorescences, up to 6 cm, yellow-brown with a copper tint. A very beautiful early variety.

Talisman Cheburashka Varvara Flamingo Pink-cream

"Mascot" is a low, up to 25 cm in height, bush with small dark crimson inflorescences.

Chrysanthemum "Cheburashka"- a compact hemispherical bush, up to 40 cm high. It blooms with lilac double inflorescences, up to 4 cm in diameter.

U "Barbarians" the bush grows up to 40 cm. It is distinguished by such abundant flowering that, due to the double, pink-lilac inflorescences with a yellow center, sometimes flower leaves are not visible.

Chrysanthemum "Flamingo" has a height of up to 50 cm. The flowers are large, up to 7.5 cm in diameter. The color of the petals is soft pink, becoming more saturated towards the center of the flower.

Variety “Pink-cream”- reaches a height of half a meter, blooms for a long time, dense double pinkish-lilac inflorescences have a diameter of up to 8 cm. As they fade, the inflorescences become pinkish-cream in color.

Leaf fall Raspberry pompom Okishor
Syaivo Apple blossom

Chrysanthemum "Leaf Fall"— This is a chameleon plant. Its height is up to 45 cm. Its inflorescences are large, reaching a diameter of 7 cm. They are painted pink-red, which changes over time to flesh-yellow.

"Raspberry" pompom- dwarf variety. Its height is up to 30 cm. The inflorescences are hemispherical, with a diameter of 6 cm, pink-crimson in color.

"Okishore"- a powerful bush up to half a meter high. Blooms profusely with pinkish-lilac large inflorescences, up to 8 cm in diameter.

"Syaivo"- a variety of Ukrainian selection. It has large, bright, egg-yellow inflorescences, up to 8 cm in diameter.

Chrysanthemum "Apple blossom"- a powerful bush up to 50 cm high, with thick stems strewn with large, up to 8 cm in diameter, pinkish-white double inflorescences. Suitable for cutting and forming bouquets.

Care at home.

Temperature

Chrysanthemum will grow and bloom at normal room temperature. But not for long. The maximum temperature for keeping chrysanthemums should be no higher than 23 °C in summer, 18 °C in spring and autumn, and even lower in winter.

In order for the flowering of the bush to be long-lasting and colorful, its temperature should be within 15 – 17 °C. The flower is very difficult to tolerate ordinary room temperature, especially the summer heat of 25 - 30 °C. You will see this by its drooping leaves and wilted flowers. This happens especially often with newly purchased copies. If this does happen, urgently move the plant to a cool place (on the balcony, in the entrance) and moisten the soil. The bushes you grow from chrysanthemum cuttings will be more resistant to elevated room temperatures next year.

Flower location

The chrysanthemum pot should be placed in the coolest room, ventilated with fresh air. Plants do not like direct sunlight shining on them. Try to find a place for it on the windowsills of the north-eastern or north-western side of the apartment. At northern windows, the plant will not have enough sunlight, it will stretch out, the shoots will begin to become bare, flowering will be rare or it will not bloom at all. Indoor chrysanthemums feel best on cool but well-lit balconies, verandas and loggias, and with the onset of real warmth it is advisable to take them outside. And so, if you have a suitable cool, well-lit place in the house, this is just what you need.

If you have a summer cottage or garden plot, we recommend planting your chrysanthemum in May - June in open ground so that it grows well there and blooms profusely in the fall. After flowering for the winter, it will need to be replanted in a pot and winterized. Leaving a flower on the site is dangerous due to the unpredictability of winter temperatures.

Lighting

Indoor chrysanthemum is a light-loving flower with short daylight hours, within eight hours. The location of the flower should be well lit, but not by direct, but by diffused sunlight. The morning and evening sun can caress the leaves of the plant, but at noon the bush must be shaded from the sun using blinds or curtains. You can put the flower in the back of the room for this time.

Watering and humidity

Chrysanthemum drinks water well - regular and abundant watering is required. But the soil must be well aerated, that is, it must be constantly moist, but not wet, so that the roots can breathe. If there is insufficient watering, the stems will wither, and if there is excess watering, they will rot and be affected by fungi. During the period of active growth, we recommend watering the plant a couple or three times a week with settled water. room temperature. In the hot season, chrysanthemums are often sprayed; it is better to do this early in the morning or in the evening. Ambient air humidity should be between 65 – 80%. If the air is still too hot and dry, resort to artificial air humidifiers. Sometimes, bathe the plant under a warm shower - the leaves should not be covered with house or street dust.

Soil and pot

For chrysanthemums, store-bought soil for decorative flowering plants is suitable. It should be nutritious, loose and not sour. Self-prepared soil should contain leaf and turf soil, humus and sand. Add some superphosphate or other fertilizer for flowering plants. Disinfect the soil (calcine or steam).

You will need a pot that is not deep, but wide, since the roots grow superficially. Place a fairly thick layer of drainage at the bottom of the planting container - excess moisture detrimental to the root system of chrysanthemums. Expanded clay, clean small stones, and pebbles are suitable for drainage. Be sure to drain the water from the pan.

Transfer

Replant young chrysanthemum specimens annually in slightly larger pots. Use the same soil mixture as when planting. Drainage and drainage holes at the bottom of the pot are a must! Adult plants are replanted every two years. Usually, the transshipment method is used. Carefully remove the flower along with the root system from the old pot and place it in a new, larger pot. Fill all voids and upper layers of roots with new nutrient soil. Water the plant. Give him some time to get used to the new conditions in a shaded place. Afterwards, return the pot to its original place.

Feeding and fertilizer

Chrysanthemums require regular feeding for full growth and abundant flowering. Ready-made fertilizers are suitable for flowering indoor plants. You can use any multicomponent additives in which the content of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium is in the ratio 1:3:2. They are used during the growing season and flowering of chrysanthemums. From November the plant is not fertilized - it ends abundant flowering, and it begins to prepare for winter rest.

Trimming

Chrysanthemums are pruned twice a year. This is done in spring and summer in order to form a beautiful crown of the bush. The first pruning is done in the spring after planting or replanting a flower. The growing point at the top of the shoots is removed from the plant. The side shoots immediately begin to grow actively. Before our eyes, the chrysanthemum turns into a lush, dense bush. About a month later, this procedure is repeated. If you grow a spherical variety of chrysanthemums, then it is not necessary to pinch it. A lush, dome-shaped bush is a varietal feature of these types of chrysanthemum.

The chrysanthemum is pruned again in the fall, after flowering. First of all, dry, diseased and rotten shoots are cut off to keep the rest of the bush healthy. The remaining shoots are also shortened, since the plant will overwinter in spartan conditions - without watering, fertilizing and light. This will make it easier for him to survive during hibernation.

Bloom

Chrysanthemums bloom at home for a long time, more than a month. Flowering occurs in the autumn months. For more luxuriant flowering, during the growing season, up to mid-August, it is necessary to pinch the shoots two to three times. In order for the plant to develop more actively and form a larger number of buds, use biological products that stimulate its growth, such as Bud, Epin, Zircon. It is believed that the use of a light solution of potassium humate promotes rapid plant growth, expansion of its root system and an increase in the number and size of buds.

In the future, during flowering, regularly trim dried stems and faded buds so as not to create conditions for pests and not to spoil the decorative appearance of the bush.

What to do if the chrysanthemum has faded?

Under natural conditions, after the chrysanthemums fade, winter comes. The bushes go into hibernation. You need to create something similar at home.

After your chrysanthemum has bloomed, cut all its shoots to a height of 10 - 15 cm; weak and diseased shoots - cut to the root. Water and store in a cool, dark place until spring. Its temperature in winter should be between zero and three degrees. Such temperatures are maintained in winter in cellars and basements. There you will keep the flower until spring. In early spring, when new shoots begin to grow, the plant is brought indoors, replanted in new soil and placed on a well-lit windowsill.

If you do not have a basement or suitable cellar, the chrysanthemum will have to be kept in winter time in any other suitable place. An insulated balcony, a glazed veranda or a window sill in the entrance, where the temperature will not exceed 8 degrees, is suitable. Watering is almost not required; once during the entire wintering period will be enough.

If there is no cool room in the house, your chrysanthemum will have to spend the winter on the windowsill in the apartment, closer to the cold glass. You also trim it a little, remove all dry leaves, shoots, buds. Transplant into a new one nutrient soil. Care for the flower as before - water moderately, do not let the root system dry out, but do not overwater it. Make sure that the bush is well lit from all sides - turn it with different sides to the sun. Ventilate the room. In a month and a half, your beauty will grow again. Shape the crown - trim shoots that are too elongated, pinch them. Then the bush will become more magnificent and form more buds. Feed him. Keep in mind that since you have deprived the chrysanthemum of its full winter holiday, flowering will not be as lush and long-lasting as the first time. After the next flowering, you will have to part with the flower or, nevertheless, organize a full rest break for it (place it in a cold place for the winter until spring).

Why didn't the chrysanthemum bloom?

Everyone is waiting for the obligatory abundant flowering of the chrysanthemum bush in early autumn and even earlier. If flowering does not occur at the appointed time, it means that you did something wrong during the many months of caring for the flower. Reasons that could cause the lack of flowering:

• insufficient lighting,
• poor soil composition,
• lack of fertilizers or excess nitrogen component in them,
• late pruning of a bush, in which you cut off shoots with buds.

Analyze your actions and correct mistakes. If the bush is generally strong and healthy, it will definitely delight you with its magnificent flowering next year.

Reproduction

Chrysanthemums are propagated using cuttings, dividing the bush and seeds. The simplest and most successful are the first two. Let's look at them in order.

Cutting method

Select a healthy, strong cutting with three to four internodes with leaves. Remove the lower leaves. There are two ways to root cuttings: in water and in soil.

To root a chrysanthemum cutting in water, place it in a glass of warm, settled water in which part of the tablet is dissolved activated carbon. Place the glass in a well-lit place (but not in the sun). Add water from time to time. The roots will appear soon. When they become 2 cm in size, the cuttings can be transplanted into a small pot with suitable loose soil (most importantly, not acidic). Cover with film or a bag to create a greenhouse effect. It is necessary to water a little at a time so that the roots do not rot.

To root in the ground, treat the tip of the prepared chrysanthemum cutting with root or heteroauxin to stimulate the appearance of roots. Place your cuttings in a pot with suitable loose soil to a depth of 1.5 cm. Water a little with warm, settled water with the addition of the same root. Cover the pot with film. Place in a bright, warm (about 20 degrees) place. Ventilate the greenhouse periodically and water it drips as necessary to prevent fungal infections.

Further, the process of rooting cuttings will proceed in the same way using both methods. After some time, when you realize that the cuttings have taken root well, new leaves have appeared and begun to grow, remove the cover. When the cutting grows to 15–20 cm in height, we recommend pinching the growing point to stimulate the formation of side shoots. When the side shoots grow to 10 - 12 cm, you also pinch them at the top for the same purpose. Then your stick-cutting will turn into a lush bush. By autumn, countless buds will be formed on it, which, when blooming, will decorate your room with unusually beautiful inflorescences with a charming aroma of flowers.

Experienced flower growers Root several cuttings at once in one pot, in case one of them does not take root and dies. In addition, cuttings from chrysanthemum varieties of different colors planted together look very good during flowering.

Reproduction by dividing the bush

Reproduction by dividing the bush is used during the period of intensive growth of young chrysanthemum shoots. Up to 6 shoots can grow on one bush. Carefully separate the selected shoot with the root system from the mother bush. Place your seedling in a prepared wide but not deep pot with a suitable soil composition, carefully cover the roots with soil, water well with settled warm water. Next watering Carry out after the top layer of soil has dried thoroughly. Do not overwater the bush so that the roots have time to absorb the received moisture and do not rot. In a month, the bush will have taken root well, and you can begin to shape it. If you do everything correctly, you will admire its wonderful inflorescences in the fall.

A similar method is when the entire adult chrysanthemum bush is taken out of the pot, its roots are carefully shaken off and the bush is divided into several parts so that each part has its own roots. Plant these flower parts in your own pots and grow them as described above.

Propagation by seeds

Propagation of chrysanthemum by seeds is the most difficult method, therefore it is rarely used. It is generally impossible to grow spherical varieties from seeds, since they are obtained artificially. If you plant Multiflora seeds, you will get an ordinary chrysanthemum without a hint of the characteristics of the variety. Korean varieties and hybrids propagate best by seeds.

If you decide to grow your favorite chrysanthemum variety from seeds, we will help you. Only those seeds that you purchased in specialized stores are suitable. You can grow and collect your own seeds, but the likelihood that they are ripe enough to sprout after planting is quite low.

Prepare a container with a lid. Fry the soil, consisting of peat and humus in equal parts, at a temperature of 110 - 130 degrees. You can use ready-made soil for flower plants from the shop. Spread the chrysanthemum seeds over the surface, lightly pressing them into the soil. Moisten the substrate with a fine spray bottle. Close the lid. Place the container in a warm place in the shade. Ventilate the plantings from time to time and moisten them. After the seedlings have sprouted and grown a little, they should be placed in a well-lit place and thinned out. From mid-February to early March, it is advisable to transplant grown seedlings with three to four true leaves into separate pots according to all transplanting rules. Then young chrysanthemums will grow on their own. Spray them with a solution of Zircon or Epin to make rooting faster and more successful. Start lowering the temperature and start caring for them like adult plants: water, pinch, feed, protect from heat and insects - that is, do everything so that the grown chrysanthemums thank you for your care with abundant colorful flowering.

Diseases

Viral diseases:

1. Aspermia. This disease leads to deformed flowers and mottling of chrysanthemum leaves.
2. Seedless. Chrysanthemum varieties with bronze-red inflorescences are susceptible to this infection. The flowers of a diseased plant acquire a yellowish tint. The reed flowers of diseased chrysanthemums become deformed and become of different lengths.
3. Dwarfism. This disease causes stunted plant growth and early flowering deformed flowers.
4. Ring spot. This viral infection causes yellowish rings to form on the leaves of the plant. Leaves become deformed and decrease in size.
5. Mosaic. This viral infection causes mosaic spots to form on the leaves.

Treatments viral infections does not exist. The diseased plant must be destroyed along with the soil. The pot can be disinfected and only then used. To avoid infecting other flowers with viruses, it is advisable to sterilize all tools used.

Diseases of fungal origin:

1. Powdery mildew. This infection mainly destroys young shoots and covers the leaves and flowers of chrysanthemums with a white, powdery coating.
2. Rust. It is too fungal disease. The leaves turn yellow, the shoots become brittle. The plant becomes covered with round brown spots and fungal spores.
3. Septoria. The infection affects chrysanthemum leaves. The spots on them appear first yellow, and then dark brown. An untreated plant will die.
4. Gray rot. will spread throughout the plant brown spots, which in turn become covered with a gray coating. The chrysanthemum begins to rot.

We recommend treating fungal infections with chemicals - fungicides. Copper oxychloride and Fundazol treat rust, septoria and gray rot well, and Bordeaux mixture is used against powdery mildew. Modern drugs, such as Fitosporin, cope with all types of fungal infections.

All these diseases are rather dangerous for garden species chrysanthemums, as well as for those indoor ones that you planted in open ground for the summer. The infection enters the flower from the soil or is transmitted by insects - pests from diseased plants. At indoor growing chrysanthemums suffer from infectious diseases very rarely. However, if the basic rules for caring for indoor flowers are violated, non-infectious problems may arise.

Pests

Autumn is coming, the days are getting shorter, and it’s getting colder outside. The majority of indoor flowers have already bloomed and are preparing to go dormant. And for indoor chrysanthemum The desired time of flowering has come. For almost a year they carefully looked after her, maintaining her beauty and health, and now, as if in response, she bloomed with magnificent multi-colored, very bright, inflorescences. Isn't it a tempting picture?! Try to grow this too wonderful plant on your windowsill. With proper care in spring and summer, you will admire its magnificent blooms all fall.

Chrysanthemums (chrysanthemum indicum), unlike dahlias and gerberas, have a house or potted variety, adapted for growing at home. Low bushes of indoor flowers are sold in stores and decorate window sills, balconies and garden plots all over the world. Such chrysanthemums are especially loved by the Japanese and the British. Flowers are used not only to decorate the site, but also create luxurious bouquets with their help.

About the plant

The birthplace of flowers is China. In the 5th century, Confucius wrote about an elixir of youth made from yellow chrysanthemums, which was created by a healer for the imperial court. On October 9 of each year, the plant acquires special power, which can give spiritual energy, youth and clarity of mind. For flowers to give health, they must be collected by the hands of people with pure souls and good intentions. Chrysanthemums are usually collected by children. In Japan, the plants are considered the imperial flower. There is a festival where everyone drinks sake with yellow petals.

Many varieties of potted chrysanthemums have been created that are adapted for growing at home on window sills, balconies and loggias. They have a height of no more than 50 cm and are divided into large-flowered (up to 5 cm) and small-flowered (up to 2.5 cm). Chrysanthemums have different shapes and colors. Vases with flowers are convenient because they can be placed around the house or area. Containers with them are placed along garden paths, on stairs, lawns and flower beds.

The type of indoor chrysanthemums belongs to the Asteraceae family. Cuttings are grown artificially in greenhouses using drugs that slow down their development. Therefore, it is possible to obtain miniature specimens. The method was developed in Japan and does not affect the quality and healing properties colors.

Potted chrysanthemums have their own characteristics:

• perennial and annual varieties;
• the leaves of the plants are narrow and pointed, light green in color;
• the buds are small, but form lush inflorescences;
• The root system does not develop deep into the pot, but horizontally, along the surface of the soil.

Potted chrysanthemums can grow and bloom for many years. A wide variety of varieties have been developed:

• ampelous and cascading;
• lush low-growing plants - 15 cm and tall ones - up to 70 cm;
• large-flowered with a bud diameter up to 5 cm;
• small - up to 2.5 cm;
• with a spherical bush shape.

You can make a mix - a collection of indoor chrysanthemums from varieties with different terms flowering:

• early starts from mid-August;
• medium - from mid-September (Zembla variety is popular);
• late flowering period begins in November-December.

Growing

Before purchasing indoor chrysanthemums or cuttings, you must follow several rules:

• carefully examine the plant;
• evaluate the density of all parts and the stem;
• pay attention to the health of the specimen, the thickness of its leaves and strength; insects should not crawl on the flower.

Doma chrysanthemum must be placed separately from other plants for 3 quarantine weeks. During the difficult period of adaptation to new (different from the nursery) conditions, the flower is susceptible to diseases. If the soil turns out to be of poor quality, it needs to be transplanted into another soil.

This requires a pot, drainage (pebbles, polystyrene foam, expanded clay, coal) and loose nutritious soil. The cuttings are planted shallowly, since its root system is located on the surface of the soil. After this it is watered. Care for growing chrysanthemums at home has two phases. This is summer, meaning:

1. 1. Lighting. Chrysanthemums do not like direct sunlight. They cause the buds to dry out, so short sun is preferable. Its brightness and time can be adjusted by curtains and blinds, thereby speeding up or slowing down the flowering of chrysanthemums. Usually they immediately choose a slightly shaded and cool place on the western or eastern side. But not from the north, where flowers can wither due to lack of light.
2. 2. Air temperature. Chrysanthemum is an autumn plant. For long and abundant flowering, the air temperature in summer must be maintained no more than +18°C, otherwise the plant’s leaves turn yellow and the buds wither. It is necessary to ventilate the room, since flowers are picky about air quality. Chrysanthemums grown independently in pots become less capricious to temperature changes.
3. 3. Watering. Flowers prefer moderate moisture, but do not tolerate dry soil well. You can water it with rainwater or add 2 drops of ammonia per 1 liter. The frequency of moistening is determined by how dry the soil in the pots is, since the roots of flowers do not grow deep, but on the surface of the soil. Chrysanthemums love moist and cool air, so you need to spray the bushes daily, bathe them 2 times a month, or place a humidifier next to them. As a last resort, you can use a jar or bottle of water. Flowers are suitable for growing on a shaded balcony or loggia. It is necessary to trim off dried stems and buds.
4. 4. Feeding. Chrysanthemums are fertilized once every 12 days, using organic or mineral materials: during the growth period of the bush - with nitrogen content, and before flowering - with potassium and phosphorus. After the buds bloom, stop feeding, leaving only watering.
5. 5. Pinching. When intensive growth of chrysanthemums occurs, it is necessary to pinch the tops of the plant so that it does not stretch in height, become long, crooked, one-sided and unattractive. After this, dormant buds awaken, the bush spreads, remaining low. To achieve miniature chrysanthemums, some people buy special remedy to slow down growth. Before flowering begins, pinching is not carried out. It starts in mid-August and lasts until the end of November.

You need to care for plants in winter too. After the chrysanthemums have bloomed, it is necessary to give them a “vacation” so that they retain their decorativeness, beauty and produce buds next spring. Before resting, the bushes are cut to a height of 15 cm, transplanted into fresh soil and kept in containers at an air temperature of about +8°C. For example:

1. 1. On the veranda and loggia, where there is sufficient lighting.
2. 2. On the windowsills of the apartment, choosing the coolest place for this.
3. 3. In a dry basement at home or in a cellar.

Water the plants no more than once a week. Potted chrysanthemums must be replanted into larger flowerpots before wintering. Since plants are unpretentious to the composition of the soil, for this they use soil to which humus, peat and leaf compost are added (soil from rotted tree leaves collected in heaps for rotting - it is slightly acidic, easily digestible, loose and quickly absorbs moisture).

Reproduction methods

The first method of reproduction is division. One chrysanthemum bush produces up to 4 shoots. Carefully separating the roots from each other, they are planted in a container with soil, 3-5 pieces each. If all the rules are followed, chrysanthemums bloom in the spring.

The second method is cuttings. You need to cut shoots 8 cm long from the bush, treat them with heteroauxin or Kornevin, plant them to a depth of 1-1.5 cm in a container with loose and nutritious soil. Cover with film to create a greenhouse effect inside. It is necessary to lift it several times a month to prevent fungus from appearing on the cuttings. When they manage to germinate up to 15 cm, the top must be pinched so that a beautiful bush will later form.

Chrysanthemums can also be propagated by seeds, but this is a labor-intensive process that is used mainly by breeders.

Care after winter

In mid-March, the necessary spring work.For beginning flower growers, the step-by-step process is as follows:

1. 1. Transplant the plant into new nutrient soil. For one low-growing potted chrysanthemum, a container with a diameter of 9 cm is suitable. For 3 plants - 11 cm. All 3 cuttings should be planted along the edges of the pot with an outward slope.
2. 2. Place the flower in a sunny place.
3. 3. Start regular watering and fertilizing of the plant nitrogen fertilizers. The first one can be done only after 2 weeks. To speed up the growth of green mass, it is necessary to fertilize with nitrogen fertilizers, and just before flowering - with phosphorus and potassium. To get strong and healthy specimens, you can use stimulants and regulators.

A little later, you need to prune the chrysanthemum so that its shape is beautiful, and pinch out fresh shoots so that the plant remains miniature.

Indoor flowers can be planted in open ground in spring. This provides them fast growth and abundant flowering. In late autumn, they are carefully dug up without damaging the root system, transplanted into containers with prepared soil and placed in a place comfortable for wintering. Watering is carried out once a week.

If the chrysanthemums never bloomed, this means that the rules for growing and caring for them were not followed. This could be the result:

• untimely pruning;
• lack of sunlight;
• lack of feeding or its excess;
• incorrectly selected soil.

Diseases of potted chrysanthemums:

1. 1. Spider mite. To remove it, you need to wipe all parts of the plant with a sponge, moistening it in a soap solution. Then you need to rinse the flower under a warm shower.
2. 2. A light ashy coating on the leaves and buds is powdery mildew, a fungus that appears in a very humid environment. For treatment, spray with fungicide and place the chrysanthemum in a dry place.
3. 3. Fluffy grayish coating and brownish spots on the leaves are gray rot. When treating, the plant is sprayed with Fundazol, after which the flower is placed in the sun.
4. 4. If brown spots with a yellow border appear on the leaves of the chrysanthemum, this is the activity of a red spider mite. It appears at low air humidity. To combat it, Fundazol is used. In this case, you need to reduce the frequency of watering.

As soon as autumn arrives, flower shops display pots of bright chrysanthemum balls for everyone to see. Sometimes they are bought as a disposable bouquet and thrown away after flowering. But this is not the only option. Chrysanthemum in a pot can be successfully grown on a windowsill for many years. Or, with the onset of spring, transplant it into OG (open ground).

Low-growing varieties of Chinese or mulberry chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum x morifolium) are suitable for growing indoors and on balconies. These are abundantly flowering bushes, reaching a height of 15-70 cm. They can be large-flowered (flower diameter 2.5-5 cm) or small-flowered (flower diameter up to 2.5 cm). The flowering forms of Chinese chrysanthemums can also be different. In home culture, varieties of the “Charm” form (“Red Charm”, “Yellow Charm”, etc.) are popular, blooming with a huge head of basket-inflorescences of different colors. Low “Minimum” are also good - dwarf bush chrysanthemums, barely growing to 15-20 cm in height. But the so-called “Cascade” ampel forms (“White Cascade”, “Pink Cascade”, etc.) are of particular interest to collectors.

In addition to mulberry chrysanthemum, low-growing varieties of Korean chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum x koreanum) are cultivated in greenhouses. Korean bushes are distinguished by their spherical shape, which in the fall turns into bright flowering pillows. Popular varieties are “Orange Jam”, “Navare”, “Stella”, etc. For their resemblance to flowering balls, specimens from the multiflora series are called spherical chrysanthemums.

Korean chrysanthemums bloom profusely in pots and open ground

Indian chrysanthemums (Chrysanthemum x indicum L.) in pots are available for sale. These plants in our latitudes were originally intended for growing indoors. Their habitats: room window sills, glazed balconies, greenhouses, winter gardens. Varieties: “Altgold”, “Snow Elf”, “Aurora”, “Ellen”, etc.

Indian chrysanthemums are sissies; they can only grow indoors: in pots on the windowsill, in winter gardens, greenhouses

However, when you buy a bush chrysanthemum in a pot, you do not need to know its type and variety. Home care for any potted chrysanthemum is the same.

How to care for chrysanthemums at home?

Lighting, temperature

Ideally, domestic chrysanthemums should be kept on windows facing west or east. Southern windows are too hot for them; direct sunlight causes rapid flowering. On northern windows, the buds may not open at all. Alternatively, chrysanthemums at home can be placed on a ventilated, cool balcony with good lighting.

The best place for a home chrysanthemum is an open balcony with a western or eastern orientation.

Chrysanthemum is a plant of short daylight hours. Flowering begins when daylight hours are reduced to 9-10 hours. And this happens in the fall. Then the coolness necessary for the opening of chrysanthemum flowers appears. Similar conditions may arise in early spring, in March-April. If at this time you place your home chrysanthemum on a cool balcony, then it may happen again. spring bloom. Some amateur flower growers provoke the flowering of their chrysanthemums by artificially reducing daylight hours. To do this, after the required 9-10 hours, the plant is covered with an impenetrable cap, for example, made of cardboard.

Optimal temperatures for growing chrysanthemums: in summer – 20-23°, in autumn – 15-18°, in winter – 3-8°. These temperatures are ideal. If they are followed, the chrysanthemum gains a large number of buds and blooms for a long time. However, nothing bad will happen if you deviate from the recommended parameters. A chrysanthemum in a pot will normally survive the hot summer if you place it in a ventilated place, shaded from the midday rays. It will also tolerate short-term frosts down to -3° quite well.

Watering and spraying

Chrysanthemums need good watering, but without excessive moisture. In other words, there is no point in creating a swamp in a pot. It is also impossible to place the pot in a tray and constantly add water there. Water the chrysanthemum only after the top layer of the substrate has dried. Remember that any chrysanthemum, even in a pot, is initially a garden plant. And it needs high air humidity. Therefore, when growing chrysanthemums, caring for it should include regular spraying with water. An alternative is to install jars of water, trays with wet expanded clay, and an air humidifier next to the potted chrysanthemum. When growing chrysanthemums in the fall on an open balcony, where the humidity is already high, additional spraying should be avoided.

How to preserve chrysanthemums in winter?

In winter, the chrysanthemum should rest and gain strength before the new growing season. You can overwinter the plant:

1. In a bright, cool room (on the veranda, insulated balcony, in the entrance)

After flowering, the potted chrysanthemum is cut to 10-15 cm and placed in a cool, bright room for the winter. Optimal temperature 3-8°C. Water the plant rarely, only after the clod of earth has dried out on 2 phalanges of the finger. Typically, watering is required once a month.

2. At home

If there is no cool room, the chrysanthemum can remain on the windowsill in the house in winter. In this case, the plant is pruned minimally, with the obligatory removal of faded buds, dry branches and leaves. Watering is carried out in the same way as during the growing season.

To overwinter chrysanthemums in a pot, you should choose the lightest and coldest window sill in the house

3. In the basement

Chrysanthemums can be placed in the basement for the winter. This method is very popular among owners of garden heat-loving chrysanthemums, and therefore is quite suitable for their potted counterparts. To prepare the plant for wintering, all dried branches, flowers, and rotten parts are cut off. The bush is trimmed to a height of 10-15 cm. A couple of days before the start of wintering, the soil in the pot should be watered. By the time the chrysanthemum is placed in the basement, the soil should be slightly damp, but not damp.

4. In the open ground

Some varieties of potted chrysanthemums are able to overwinter in the ground with shelter. Another thing is that it is very difficult to guess whether a particular specimen will overwinter. If you decide to take the risk, with the onset of the first frost, cut the chrysanthemum stems to a height of 10 cm and cover them with dry soil, peat or dry leaves. On top - cover with film or other covering material.

Homemade chrysanthemums: care during the growing season (spring and summer)

Already in March, home chrysanthemums should begin their growing season. Therefore do the following:

1. Transplant the chrysanthemum into new soil

The soil for chrysanthemums must be neutral, water- and moisture-permeable, and nutritious. Very good results is obtained by planting chrysanthemums in a substrate composed according to the following scheme: turf soil + garden soil + sand + humus (rotted manure, chicken droppings) in a ratio of 4:4:1:1. Young chrysanthemums will require transplanting into a new, larger pot every year. Adult plants need to increase their “living space” every 2 years.

2. Place the pot with the plant on a sunny windowsill, balcony, or in the garden (at stable above-zero temperatures)

In spring, homemade chrysanthemum can be planted in open ground. It will grow over the summer and bloom profusely in the fall. In winter, it will have to be dug up, placed again in a pot and sent to winter in a frost-free room.

Homemade chrysanthemum does well outdoors

3. Start regular watering and fertilizing

After transplantation, the first application of fertilizer will be needed no earlier than 2 weeks later. If humus has been added to the substrate, you don’t have to think about fertilizing for a month. In spring and summer, the chrysanthemum will form a bush, so for fertilizing you should select fertilizers with a predominance of nitrogen (N). Only in the middle of summer, for the formation of buds, potassium-phosphorus fertilizers will be required (suitable mineral fertilizers"for those who bloom")

4. Begin shaping

When purchased, a homemade chrysanthemum usually looks like a spherical blooming cloud. In order for it to be just as decorative in the future, it will have to be shaped. New growing shoots are pinched several times. In most cases, 2-3 pinchings are sufficient during the spring-summer period. Pinching, firstly, prevents the branches from growing beyond the boundaries of the formed “ball”, and, secondly, it stimulates the growth of new shoots on which flower buds will form.

The formed chrysanthemum bush looks like a blooming ball

Why doesn't chrysanthemum bloom?

Any chrysanthemum should bloom in the fall. This law can only be violated if there are errors in caring for the plant. The most common of them are:

• Poor illumination (low intensity of light rays, too long or, conversely, short (less than 7 hours) daylight hours).
• Late pruning (pinching).
• Poor soil and lack of fertilizing (containing phosphorus and potassium).

Eliminate the errors found and your potted chrysanthemum will definitely thank you with lush and long flowering.

Chrysanthemums are desirable flowers in any garden. There are several reasons for this. The main one is that they bloom late, at a time when there are practically no other flowers in nature. Thanks to chrysanthemums autumn garden It will look fun and beautiful. Growing chrysanthemums at home because of this never ceases to be fashionable.

Another reason why many people plant chrysanthemum is its unpretentiousness. Yes, there are certain rules for caring for a flower, but they are not so extensive and significant. In most cases, chrysanthemums take root well, grow and bloom profusely. In this article we will look at the secrets of growing chrysanthemums at home, as well as methods of their propagation.

Photo from the site: cvetok-v-dome.ru

Chrysanthemums: care and cultivation

Can chrysanthemums be grown at home? Certainly. They are not at all difficult to care for. Growing chrysanthemums at home includes a set of seasonal measures. In the spring the plant needs one kind of care, in the fall – another. It is important correct landing. After all, it is easier to adjust the watering or fertilizing regime than changing the place where the chrysanthemum grows. Caring for and growing in the country requires special attention to this issue, because you are not always here, and, therefore, cannot constantly control the situation. This means you need to be insured.

Correct fit

How to grow chrysanthemums at home? First, choose a suitable place for the flower. It should be:

• accessible to sunlight and air;
• nutritious;
• moderately humid.

In order for the site to meet all these parameters, it must be at some elevation. In this case, the plant will be well illuminated by the sun. This will contribute correct formation bush. If there is not enough sun, then the chrysanthemum begins to reach out to it, growing too much. In this case, the long stems will remain semi-bald, and flowering will be rare. In some cases, such chrysanthemums do not bloom at all.

An elevated location is also favorable in terms of soil moisture. Excess water will simply flow down. This is important, because if the soil is too wet, the roots of the chrysanthemum begin to rot. Various pests that love moisture can grow on the stems. A shaded area can make this problem worse. You should especially be wary of fungus. It affects the bottom of the stems as well as the roots of the plant.

Photo from the site: sadovymir.ru

Chrysanthemums love soil rich in minerals and nutrients. In soil poor in such elements, the flower will be weak, its stems will develop poorly, and buds may not appear at all. Unlike previous conditions, this problem can be dealt with. Just fertilize the soil before planting the plant, as well as after the chrysanthemum has already taken root. To do this, apply nitrogen fertilizer. You can throw some compost into the hole before planting.

Chrysanthemums are planted at a depth of 30-40 centimeters. There is no need to dig it very deeply, because the root system of the flower develops in width. If the flower grows large and is unstable, it is advisable to tie it up. The distance between chrysanthemums should be at least 40-50 centimeters. It is especially important to maintain distance between spherical varieties of this flower, since they need space to form a dome.

After planting, the plant needs to be shaded a little. Watering from the first days should be moderate.

When is the best time to plant chrysanthemums? It is better to start growing chrysanthemums at home with spring planting of flowers. This way you can care for them until late autumn, adjusting the conditions under which they are kept. If you plant chrysanthemums in October or even later, you cannot be sure of their rooting. And even if the flowers seem to be fully grown, there is no guarantee that they will survive the winter.

Small decorative chrysanthemums are often planted in a flowerpot and kept indoors.

Photo from the site: OgorodSadovod.com

Watering

Chrysanthemums like moderate watering. If there is a deficiency, the stems will begin to wither, and if there is an abundance, they will rot and become infected with fungus. Experienced gardeners believe that sometimes it is better to add too little water to the root of a chrysanthemum than to pour too much. That is why these flowers are planted on a hill so that excess moisture can drain down.

Make sure that there are no depressions or holes near the chrysanthemum. After rains, water may be retained in them, which will negatively affect the condition of the plant.

How to fertilize the soil for chrysanthemums

Growing chrysanthemums in the country or at home must necessarily include fertilizing. Since the flower needs an increased amount of nutrients, it is necessary to fertilize the soil near it, starting in spring. At the end of March and beginning of April, it is already possible to apply nitrogen fertilizing. You can buy them at the store or make them yourself using mullein. These types of fertilizers stimulate flower growth. In spring and summer, when chrysanthemum bushes are just forming, this comes in handy.

From the end of August it is already necessary to apply potassium and phosphorus fertilizers. You can buy a combination product that includes them. These types of fertilizers promote the growth of buds and abundant flowering. The plant also needs them to accumulate resources for wintering.

Starting from the end of October, chrysanthemums no longer need any fertilizers. At this time, it is in its period of abundant flowering. In November you can already start preparing for winter.

Photo from the site: moyadacha.temaretik.com

Trimming

Chrysanthemums should be pruned twice a year. In spring and summer this is done in order to form a beautiful bush. In particular, the plant’s growing point, which is located on top, is removed. After this, the side shoots begin to actively grow, and the chrysanthemum becomes lush. It is necessary to trim the top a few days after planting the flower, then repeat the procedure after 20 days.

If you have a spherical chrysanthemum, then it is not necessary to pinch it. She will grow anyway lush bush in the shape of a dome. This is due to its varietal properties.

It is also necessary to prune the chrysanthemum in the fall. First of all, at this time, diseased, dry and rotten shoots are removed. This is done for sanitary purposes so that the entire bush does not become infected in winter. Some gardeners also shorten all other shoots. But this should not always be done. The need for complete pruning arises if you are going to cover the plant outside for the winter. In this case, you need to reduce the volume of the bush so that it fits under the insulation frame. If you do not use special covering measures, then it is better not to cut off the top of the chrysanthemum. This may harm the plant.

Photo from the site: 1dacha-sad.com

Treatment

Chrysanthemums, like any other flowers, can be susceptible to diseases and also be attacked by pests. In such situations, it is important to take timely measures to prevent the infection from destroying the chrysanthemums and spreading to neighboring flowers.

If the chrysanthemum is affected by a fungus, then spray it with Fitosporin or another similar preparation. Also make sure that the moisture level in the area with flowers is reduced.

Powdery mildew sometimes appears on chrysanthemums. It is clearly visible on the affected leaves. It is necessary to combat it by applying potassium-phosphorus fertilizing, as well as reducing the moisture level. Also make sure that when watering, water does not get on the leaves.

Chrysanthemums are also affected by mites. They are neutralized using insecticides, which are sold in flower shops. The most effective is Karbofos.

Photo from the site: www.happy-giraffe.ru

Preparing for winter

Caring for and growing chrysanthemums in the country includes such a stage as preparation for wintering. It is worth starting it in September, when the plant is just getting ready to bloom. At this time you need to make potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. They will give the plant strength to survive the winter.

In November, when the leaves of the chrysanthemum begin to fade, it is worth thinking about covering it for the winter. After sanitary pruning you will need to build a frame over the plant, and then cover it with polyethylene or other insulating material. These measures will be sufficient for wintering an ordinary chrysanthemum. But if you don't have a flower frost-resistant variety, then it is better to dig it up with roots and store it in the cellar until spring.

When caring for and growing chrysanthemums in the country, remember that in winter you will not be able to look after it. Therefore, it is better to put it in the cellar. This way you will be sure that it will not freeze or sweat.

Photo from the site: sait-pro-dachu.ru

Reproduction

How to grow a chrysanthemum became clear to you from the previous sections of this article. But this information is probably not enough for amateur flower growers, but I would like not only to have a chrysanthemum on my site, but also to propagate it to several bushes. There are several ways to do this.

Cuttings

To propagate in this way, you need a strong and healthy chrysanthemum branch. It is easy to select, since the condition can be judged by appearance. A flower from a bouquet is also suitable for cuttings.

In order for the branch to take root, it must be sprinkled with a rooting agent and planted in moist soil. At the same time, make sure that the soil does not dry out until the plant is well rooted. You can also place the cutting in a glass of water to allow it to take root. After this, the plant is planted in a flowerpot or open ground.

Dividing the rhizome

This method of propagating chrysanthemums is the simplest. You just need to dig up part of an already formed flower bush and replant it separately. There's nothing complicated about it.

Photo from the site: dvamolotka.ru

Reproduction through seeds

Is it possible to grow chrysanthemum from seeds? This method is actually sometimes used. True, it is not suitable for spherical chrysanthemums, because they are bred artificially. If you plant Multiflora seeds, an ordinary chrysanthemum will grow without a hint of varietal characteristics.

Growing chrysanthemums from seeds at home can be done seedling method. To do this, select a suitable box and pour loose, fertile soil into it. earth mixture. Do not forget about high-quality drainage. After this, chrysanthemum seeds are planted at a depth of 25 centimeters. It is advisable to place 2-3 seeds in one hole. After the seedlings sprout and grow a little, they need to be thinned out. You can also picket plants in separate disposable cups.

Chrysanthemum seedlings are planted in mid-February - early March. By May, the plants will be ready to be transplanted outside.

How to grow chrysanthemum from seeds in open ground? To do this, they should be planted in early May in well-moistened soil. After this, the flowers are often watered until germination. When the chrysanthemums sprout, they are thinned out. We hope that our article answered the question: how to grow chrysanthemums at home. See also the video “Growing chrysanthemums at home.”

Grow chrysanthemum at home

Chrysanthemums are very beautiful flowers, varied in flower structure and shades, which with beautiful round-shaped bushes can decorate any room. It should be noted that chrysanthemums live well at home, without causing their owners much trouble in terms of maintenance. You can place a cute bush anywhere, be it a fairly wide window sill, the floor of a balcony, or even a fairly well-lit room. If we talk about a country house, who would nicely furnish the veranda and the entrance to the house with them, because they are not fussy about heat and can withstand drops in temperature very well. The problem will only be excessive warm air, because these flowers do not like it when the room is warm, that is, above 20 degrees Celsius and when there is no regular ventilation.

Types of chrysanthemums

This flower migrated to our apartments from Asia, where translated from the local language it literally means “sunny plant.” This is not surprising, just looking at the chrysanthemums, the photo is immediately associated with the yellowness of the sun. At home, it was divided into four main types, each of which has its own characteristics. The first type is Bush, it looks quite similar to chamomile, but only the flowers are larger and, accordingly, different shades. Often used in flower arrangements.

Planting chrysanthemums and their reproduction

True, it won’t be possible to tell fortunes on her whether she loves you or not. The second type includes Cascade, which looks like a tiny daisy. Accordingly, this flower is taller and larger. For those who grow flowers in the garden, the favorite one was the one that was later called: Sadovaya. She is very tall, sometimes up to 70 centimeters. But on average, the plant is usually 40-50 centimeters, no more. Another type is Korean, which is characterized by its resistance to low temperatures. It blooms until frost. This can decorate any garden, because only she and the Hellebore have not dried out at this time. However, chrysanthemums at home look no less beautiful.

Growing chrysanthemums is absolutely not a difficult task, no matter what type they are. Indoors, in a pot, any chrysanthemum feels quite good, it is not whimsical. But if it is possible to place such a bush on the veranda or at least on the balcony, it will be great, because flowers love coolness. A draft will also not be a hindrance, rather the opposite, because chrysanthemums love fresh air.

How to grow chrysanthemums on your street

If the room or even the balcony is hot and stuffy, then the chrysanthemum will wither right before your eyes. At first this will manifest itself in the fact that all the flowers will close and then fall off, then they will begin to lose their elasticity, the leaves will droop and fall off. Soon there will be only dry branches left. Moreover, this happens in just a week, that is, quite quickly. Needless to say, chrysanthemum does not require care, but compliance with the temperature regime is mandatory. These flowers love light. But we are not talking about direct sunlight, which can simply burn the buds and cause burn spots to the flowers, but simply about indirect, but quite intense lighting. If brown dots or even spots appear on the leaves of the bush, you should immediately remove the plant from this place, this is a manifestation of sunburn. Although, if the flower lacks sun, it will stretch upward, losing its rounded shape, and its buds will be very small and, in the end, will not open.

Caring for chrysanthemums

If we talk about watering, watering the bush twice a week with a moderate amount of water will be quite enough. Chrysanthemums do not like damp soil and would rather tolerate a lack of water than an excess of it. This applies to both garden and home forms. By the way, they are planted in compact pots, at the bottom of which drainage in the form of gravel or other types of small stone must be placed. And the holes in the bottom of the pot should be large enough so that excess water does not stagnate. It is also necessary to spray chrysanthemums at home; as a rule, in the summer this is done twice a day, that is, in the morning and in the evening.

What many flower lovers like about chrysanthemums is that both the shape and degree of roundness of the bush, as well as the size of the flowers themselves, can be shaped independently. Both individual large flowers and small ones, even small ones, but in the plural, are beautiful in their own way.

Shape the growth type of hizanem

So, first you need to choose a large enough pot. Not tall, but wide, as required by the shape of the root system. Since the chrysanthemum prefers care that is not particularly intrusive, it is a fairly independent plant, and no additional painstaking work is needed. No greenhouses or shelters. True, when the bush is already old enough, you need to look at whether its branching suits you. If not, the top is cut off, then the dock branches begin to develop more quickly, and additional shoots appear. But this must be done until the buds begin to appear, otherwise the plant will not bloom.

View of a formed chrysanthemum and its flower

If the flowers themselves seem small, you need to cut off a certain part of them. That is, if you want to double the size, then cut half of it. But do it again, at the very beginning of the formation of buds. Experienced flower growers, even when the bud is the size of a pea, can roughly name the size of the future chrysanthemum flower. But since the flower, as a rule, does not have long petals, its diameter is three times the size of its bud.

Avoiding chrysanthemum disease - replanting

In Europe, where wedding ceremonies take place mainly on the street, gazebos are decorated with flowers, not least here is the chrysanthemum; videos of this nature can be easily found on the Internet. This proves once again decorative properties plants.

There are about thirty species of chrysanthemums in the world. Among them there are annual and perennial plants, which can most often be found in Asia. These flowers belong to the aster family. This variety of flowers was discovered a thousand years ago, and they came to European countries around the 17th century. Many species are grown outdoors and thrive there, but there are a number of varieties that are grown indoors. It's about these colors will suit speech in the article.

Description of the flower

Chrysanthemum grown at home will not be large in size. This is due to the fact that gardeners use special preparations that control the process of its growth. But it is possible that such a plant did not lag behind in size from an ordinary garden flower.

But in most cases, indoor chrysanthemums are low-growing varieties that bloom quite abundantly and reach a height of no more than seventy centimeters. The most small flowers sometimes they do not even reach 2.5 cm in diameter, and the largest ones can exceed five centimeters. In addition to size, the shape of the flower may also differ. At home, it is customary to grow varieties such as:

• Chinese;
• Korean;
• Indian.

The flowering period of this plant occurs in autumn and winter. If desired, you can extend this moment. And for this you don’t have to do anything special - just proper care and creation of the necessary conditions.

Caring for chrysanthemums in a pot at home

First of all, you need to take care of the temperature of the room in which the flower pot will be placed.. Next, you should pay attention to whether there is enough good lighting. Maintaining the water balance of the flower is also considered an important point. These are the three components on which the care of these flowers should be based.

It cannot be said that chrysanthemum loves heat very much, so in summer the air temperature in the room should not exceed 23 degrees, and in autumn and winter periods it can even drop to three degrees. It is with these thermometer readings that many buds are formed on the flowers, and flowering continues for a long time.

Next you should pay attention to the lighting. Pots with plants are placed on windows that face west or east. Southern windows are not suitable because there is too much sun here and the plant can wither, while in northern windows, on the contrary, there is too little sun. Lack of sunlight negatively affects flowering. But the ideal place to place the pots would be a veranda, where there is a lot of light, but the room is well ventilated, and it is always cool and fresh there.

When the plant enters a period of active growth, it is necessary to regularly pinch the bush to form a lush and even crown. And also do not forget to get rid of yellow leaves and wilted inflorescences. This will also have a positive effect on the abundance and duration of flowering.

Watering is another one of the most important points, not only in the case of chrysanthemums, but also when growing any other plants. The flower loves moisture, which means that the soil in its pot should not dry out. Otherwise, the plant will begin to dry out. During the period of active growth, you need to water the flower at least twice a week, since it is at this time that it desperately needs moisture. But here it is important not only to prevent drying out, but also to avoid waterlogging.

On especially hot days, chrysanthemums should be sprayed. Early morning or evening is best for this. Thanks to this procedure, the flower becomes fresher and much more attractive. But this procedure is still not mandatory.

The components of plant management also include replanting, which is carried out once a year. Young plants are transplanted into larger containers. There is no need to do this procedure with adult plants, but if you have such a desire, then you can do this only once every two to three years.

For transplantation, you can use a substrate, which is quite easy to prepare yourself. To do this you will need:

1. four parts garden soil;
2. four parts of turf;
3. one part of humus;
4. one part white sand.

To increase flowering, you can add a little bird droppings to the soil. Chrysanthemum does not like acidic soils. Don't forget to put substrate on the bottom of the pot. And you should also pour boiling water over the soil mixture, dry it, and only then will it be ready to “accept” the plant.

Fertilizers are another important part of gardening.. There are special complex fertilizers that contain all the necessary components. Particularly important substances for chrysanthemums here will be potassium and phosphorus. They stimulate flowering. Organic fertilizer also has a good effect on this flower. You can also add various mineral solutions. For example, every four days, cowshed is poured under the root. One part of the fertilizer is diluted with ten liters of water.

Fertilizing is not stopped until buds appear on the branches.

In the fall, after flowering, the chrysanthemum should go into a dormant state, and the gardener’s task is to help it with this. The shoots need to be cut off, and the pot with the plant should be moved to the basement, where it will be located in the winter. The air temperature in the room must be kept at least two degrees Celsius so that wintering is painless for the chrysanthemum. But do not forget to pick up the flower from such storage. As soon as the first leaves begin to appear on it, you should start replanting it in a pot that will be larger than the previous one and return it to its usual conditions.

Chrysanthemum propagation

Reproduction is another one important point in growing globular chrysanthemums and caring for them. Of course, this also applies to other varieties of this flower, and plants in general. There are several ways to propagate plants.

Plant cuttings

The easiest way is propagation by cuttings. For home plants in thickets, young shoots that have not yet become lignified are used. You just need to trim a side branch about ten centimeters long. Remove the lower leaves and place in water. As soon as roots four or five centimeters long appear on them, you can begin replanting.

To do this, take several roots that need to be planted in separate pot, with a pre-prepared drainage layer.

It is recommended to pinch the tops of the cuttings so that the side shoots grow better and the crown becomes more magnificent. It is allowed to grow chrysanthemums from cuttings without surgery to grow roots. To do this, the cut shoot is immediately placed in open ground and simply covered with a jar to create a greenhouse effect. But we should not forget that the cap must be removed every day. This is necessary so that the plant is ventilated and at this time you can get rid of the condensation that has formed.

Dividing the bush

A fairly simple way to propagate plants. It is most convenient to do this during transplantation. When you remove the bush from the pot, you should clear the root system of the soil. And then carefully, so as not to damage the roots and shoots, separate several parts from it. You need to be as careful as possible so as not to damage important parts of the plant.

The cuts formed on the roots must be treated with crushed coal to avoid any contamination. And the resulting seedlings are planted using the traditional method.

Growing from seeds

For seed propagation Korean varieties and various hybrids are best suited. Sow the seeds in shallow pots or containers, where there must be a drainage layer and a substrate that must be fried at a temperature of at least 110 degrees. It should contain peat and humus. Gardeners often use ready-made soil as such a substrate, which can be purchased at a special store. But even this should be carefully processed.

There is no need to cover the seeds with heaps of soil, just lightly press them into the soil. After planting, they are lightly sprayed with a spray bottle and the container is covered with thick film or glass. Don't forget to take care of the planted seeds. Make sure that they are always moisturized, remove condensation in a timely manner and be sure to ventilate. During ventilation, it is also advisable to remove accumulated condensation. Containers are stored at a temperature of no more than 25 degrees.

In just two weeks you will be able to observe the first shoots. As soon as this happens, the pots are moved to a brighter place. But don’t rush to rid them of the film. It is better to do this gradually, increasing the duration of their stay outdoors every day. This is a kind of preparation of young flowers for life indoors.

When four true leaves appear on young seedlings, you can safely transplant them into different pots. But at the same time, it is important to be careful so that neither the shoot nor the root system is damaged. Special additives can help stimulate flowers. The most popular for spraying: Zircon solution, as well as Epina-Extra. Such stimulation will accelerate the growth and development of chrysanthemum.

Grown seedlings will feel good at temperatures from 16 to 18 degrees. After some time, pruning and other maintenance components will be needed.

Chrysanthemum diseases

For chrysanthemums that are kept in poor conditions, there are three diseases that will adversely affect the plant:

• powdery mildew;
• septoria;
• gray rot.

Powdery mildew manifests itself as in most cases: it is a white coating that appears on leaves, shoots and petioles. The disease develops if the fight against it is not started in time. And this happens in the form of compactions of this plaque, it changes color and becomes brown, and the flower itself is no longer considered decorative. Win powdery mildew can be done using various fungicidal preparations, which can be purchased at any flower shop.

Septoria is another fungal disease. It manifests itself in the form of gray-brown or rusty spots, which also have a yellow outline. Such spots appear on the leaves and gradually occupy their entire surface, and black dots can be observed in the center. The leaves that have been affected gradually dry out, and the shoots begin to weaken and bend.

If you find such manifestations on your flower, isolate it immediately. Treat well with Kuproxat, and you can also use copper sulfate. All affected parts should be removed immediately. But do not rush to immediately return the flower to its place after processing. You need to wait a certain time to make sure that the disease has completely subsided.

Gray rot is the most difficult to defeat. The disease manifests itself on ground organs in the form of a fluffy coating. It completely destroys the flower tissue. Most effective means The fight is considered to be Bordeaux mixture.

Dangerous pests

There are four types of pests that are especially dangerous for chrysanthemums:

1. Thrips.
2. Chrysanthemum nematodes.
3. Drooling pennies.

All pests, except nematodes, are sucking insects that live on the plant and suck out cell sap from it. Now there are many drugs that can easily and quickly relieve the gardener and plants from this problem.

Nematodes are worms and they live underground. That is why it is almost impossible to detect their presence. But over time, white spots appear on the leaves, which then turn brown. Then the affected leaf curls up and simply falls off, and the spots spread to the next ones. To avoid this problem, do not ignore the recommendation regarding soil treatment. It is impossible to save the plant. It is simply destroyed along with the soil in which it grew.

Types of home chrysanthemums

As already mentioned, the variety of varieties of these flowers is simply amazing. They can be grown outdoors and at home. There are dwarf and low-growing chrysanthemums, various varieties of Indian, Chinese and Korean flowers. A very common type of multiflora is the bush chrysanthemum, which forms a ball shape during flowering. It is most often grown in pots. There are also earlier and later varieties. The latter includes the chrysanthemum “Anastasia pink”. Its flowering begins only in October, and it can bloom only with the fall of the first snow.

Chrysanthemums: growing at home

Chrysanthemums of modern varieties amaze with the abundance of flowering and the richness of the colors of the inflorescences, the beautiful structure of double or chamomile-shaped flowers. Breeders around the world continue to create new varieties of chrysanthemums with excellent decorative qualities.

Chrysanthemums are easily propagated by cuttings and grow and bloom beautifully on the windowsills of admirers of these plants. Compared to exotic indoor flowers, potted chrysanthemums are quite undemanding in terms of maintenance conditions (lighting, soil acidity, etc.), and have a relatively greater resistance to diseases and insect pests.

Healing properties of chrysanthemum

The superiority of indoor chrysanthemum over many other house plants is due to the fact that it harmoniously combines beauty and benefit.

A blooming chrysanthemum bush invariably attracts the eye not only due to the abundance of beautiful flowers, but also because of the interesting bluish color of the openwork leaves.

Cultivation of potted chrysanthemums

First plant the chrysanthemum cuttings one at a time in a small pot (9 cm in diameter). As the plant grows, it will need to be transferred to a larger pot (13 cm).

However, if cuttings from such a compact chrysanthemum are separated and rooted, the plants developing from them will ultimately be taller than the mother plant. This happens because without the addition of growth preparations, the cutting will tend to achieve the genetically programmed size according to the variety. This nuance is often associated with the disappointment of flower growers who hope to obtain from rooted cuttings exactly the same compact chrysanthemum as the purchased mother chrysanthemum.

Large-flowered Indian chrysanthemums, thanks to their formation into one stem and a series of multiple pinchings of the upper shoots, can be grown in the form of a standard tree (necessarily with support so that the thin standard does not break under the weight of the crown). When such a chrysanthemum “tree” with a lush crown is covered with large flowers, it is indescribable beauty!

Features of caring for indoor chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemum feels good in the house at a temperature no higher than 18 degrees. If kept warmer, the buds may dry out, the inflorescences quickly fade, and the leaves turn yellow.

A bright and cool window is the best place to keep chrysanthemums in the house.

In March, transplant the plant into fresh substrate.

After the end of the spring frosts, a pot with a chrysanthemum that has overwintered in the apartment can be taken out to the balcony or garden until the beginning of flowering or the onset of autumn cold weather.

Chrysanthemum roots do not need to comply with narrow soil acidity standards, but the soil reaction should not be acidic.

Potted chrysanthemum grows best in a fertile and loose substrate (a mixture of turf or ordinary garden soil, humus, and slightly decomposed peat in equal volumes).

I first pour boiling water over the prepared substrate into which the chrysanthemum will be transplanted and lightly dry it until it flows.

Rooted cuttings that have begun to grow and young chrysanthemums require weekly fertilizing with a complete complex fertilizer. Adult specimens also require regular nutrition during the period of their active development and flowering.

Chrysanthemum is demanding in maintaining light moisture in the substrate; overdrying the soil is harmful. Gardeners growing potted chrysanthemums should not forget to water these plants moderately.

If diseases appear, treat the chrysanthemum with a suitable fungicide.

If insect pests appear on the chrysanthemum (soil flies, aphids, thrips, etc.), then the soil layer and all leaves of the plant must be treated with an insecticide (for example, actellik, karbofos, topaz, decis, etc.). To the insecticide diluted with water according to the instructions, I add a little washing powder(the result is a slightly sticky solution - judging by the sensations of wet fingers). I spray the entire plant with it from a spray bottle. When the solution dries on the plant, the applied product continues to act for a long time without causing harm to it.

Chrysanthemums are less active than indoor roses. are affected by spider mites (in any case, my potted chrysanthemums growing next to my home rose were not infected by this type of living creature).

Pest attack on chrysanthemums and others houseplants is likely if you bring home bouquets of flowers or keep an unprotected window open (without a fine insect screen) in the warm season.

After the end of quarantine, a healthy chrysanthemum can be transplanted and placed with other plants.

My experience in growing potted chrysanthemums shows that with proper care, this wonderful plant grows well and blooms for a long time at home, including delighting us with flowers in late autumn and winter.

Lyudmila Tregubova

Gardenia.ru Floriculture: Pleasure and Benefit

Growing chrysanthemums at home is accessible to everyone

Chrysanthemums are one of the most favorite plants of gardeners. This is due not only to their beautiful decorative look, but also comparatively easy care. They decorate any flower garden until late autumn.

Beautiful chrysanthemums (growing and care)

Growing chrysanthemums is not special labor even for inexperienced gardeners. Well-lit areas with fertile, medium-textured soil are suitable for them. There should not be excess soil organic fertilizers. When choosing a place for chrysanthemums, you should remember that they do not tolerate stagnant water. This plant is distinguished by its cold resistance and drought resistance.

Chrysanthemums are considered to be quite resistant to diseases and pests, but despite this, they can be affected by:

Some gardeners use the biological characteristics of certain varieties of chrysanthemums to grow them indoors in winter. To obtain flowering plants in January-March, late-flowering varieties with a budding period of 12-14 weeks are used. This method of growing chrysanthemums is very expensive because it uses additional lighting.

How to grow chrysanthemums from seeds on your site?

When the first shoots appear, the cover is removed. Caring for young chrysanthemums involves regularly loosening the soil, removing weeds and applying fertilizer. A week after germination, they can be fed with liquid fertilizer, heavily diluted with water. Such drugs as “Rainbow” and “Ideal” are suitable for this.

When the seedlings reach 5-10 cm in height, one plant is left in the hole. For this purpose, the strongest specimens are selected. The remaining seedlings can be carefully removed from the soil and planted in another place. Chrysanthemums bloom 40-50 days after the seedlings appear.

Growing chrysanthemums from seeds in seedlings

Chrysanthemums can also be grown from seeds through seedlings. In this case, flowering occurs much faster. Perennial chrysanthemums are grown only in this way. In February-March, seeds are sown in small boxes filled with nutritious soil mixture. To prepare it, you can take soil from a greenhouse, humus and peat in equal proportions. Before sowing the seeds, the soil mixture is sifted and steamed at a temperature of about 120 °C. Ready soil for flowering plants is also suitable for seedlings.

Drainage must be poured into the bottom of the boxes (expanded clay, small stones, broken red brick). Moist soil is poured on top of it. Seeds are sprinkled on its surface.

seeds of annual chrysanthemums are sprinkled with a layer of soil of 0.5 cm;

When 2-4 leaves appear, the plants are planted in cups or pots. This will protect the root system of chrysanthemums from damage during transplantation. Very elongated and weakened seedlings are not suitable for diving. After completing this procedure, the plants are sprayed with a solution of Zircon or Epin-Extra. These drugs help seedlings to take root faster.

Cuttings and divisions of chrysanthemum bushes

The main method of propagation of chrysanthemums is vegetative - cuttings. The breeding process begins with the selection of the best queen cells. After flowering ends, they are buried in greenhouses or planted in boxes and left in a cool, dry place with normal lighting. Then vernalization is carried out - keeping the queen cells at a temperature of 1-4 ° C for 2-4 weeks. Then they are brought into a warm, well-lit room. After this, root shoots begin to actively grow on the queen cells. It is cut into cuttings when 2-3 internodes are formed. They are planted in prepared boxes. The optimal temperature for their development is 16-18 °C.

Reproduction by dividing the bush is less productive, but the easiest. Small-flowered chrysanthemums are most often used for division. The bushes are replanted after 2 years, dividing them into several parts with young shoots.

Source:

Growing chrysanthemums at home: planting and care

Gardeners love chrysanthemums not only for their beauty lush flowering. It is one of the last to bloom, so it pleases the eye until the onset of cold weather. Chrysanthemum is common in natural conditions in North America, China, Europe and Asia. There are a large number of species. there are about 150 of them. Chrysanthemums are grown not only in the garden as flowering plant, protected soil is also used, and flowers are used for cutting.

Two varieties are used for cultivation on the site: ground chrysanthemum and Korean.

Chrysanthemum belongs to the Asteraceae family. The flowering period lasts from September to October. The leaves are sessile, green with a gray tint, the stems are erect.

The inflorescence of the chrysanthemum is a basket, it contains a large number of individual flowers.

The diameter of the inflorescence ranges on average from 5 to 10 cm. The shape of the flowers can be varied. flat, pompom-shaped, anemone-shaped. The coloring has a wide palette, the petals can be lilac, orange, crimson, pink, red, white, orange. A pleasant light aroma emanates from the flowers.

The most common species grown on sites:

The crowned chrysanthemum has a simple stem and reaches a height of 70 cm, although it may be less. Basal leaves do not stay on the plant for a long time. Inflorescences are solitary or collected in groups. The leaves of this species can be used as food. Alpine chrysanthemum is a low-growing plant, average height 15 cm. Leaves are collected in a rosette, single baskets, 3 cm in diameter. The flowering period lasts from July to August. This variety looks great on alpine roller coaster, also grown in pots and borders. Chrysanthemum keeled is an annual species, grows from 20 to 70 cm. The stem is erect, fleshy, the leaves are also dense. The inflorescences can be double or semi-double and have a pronounced aroma. The flowering period lasts from June to September, flowering is abundant. Shrub chrysanthemum is a tall species, reaching 1 meter. The inflorescences are large, reaching a diameter of 5 cm, double or semi-double, and can be arranged singly or in groups of 2-10 pieces. The flowers are tubular or reed.

This is done in mid-May. Flowering occurs only in autumn. if you want to see flowers as quickly as possible, then seedlings are planted, they quickly adapt to the open ground and conditions environment. Seeds of perennial chrysanthemums are sown at the end of January. If the winter turned out to be cold, then you can wait another month and sow chrysanthemums in February. The development of seedlings occurs slowly, so if you plant a flower in spring or later, flowering will occur only the next year.

The soil for sowing seeds needs light soil; it can be prepared according to the following scheme:

1 part humus

Expanded clay, gravel or other material that acts as drainage must be placed at the bottom of the seedling container. Seeds of annual species are planted to a depth of no more than 1 cm. If the chrysanthemum is Korean, then the seeds are laid out on the surface. Sprouts will appear in about 2 weeks, when favorable conditions the period may be shortened.

While the seedlings are in containers, the ambient temperature should be within 18 degrees. The soil must always be moist; for this, it is periodically sprayed with a spray bottle, preventing it from drying out. Water for spraying is used warm and settled. When several full-fledged leaves appear, the plants dive into separate containers.

The seedlings are transplanted into open ground in early June, and if the weather permits, a little earlier.

An open, sunny place is selected on the site. Groundwater should not pass close to the surface; chrysanthemums do not like stagnant water. The soil should be light and fertile. In the fall, chrysanthemums are dug up and stored in a cool room until spring. This is done only in the first year while the plants are not yet strong. Further, shelters are not required for the winter, especially if the winter is mild.

Growing chrysanthemums in open ground is very simple, but this does not mean that it does not require special conditions:

The most important thing is to choose a sunny area. For chrysanthemums you need to find a flat area. This is due to spring period, if the flowers are planted in a lowland, then there is a high risk that when the snow melts, water will flow down and flood the plants. The same applies to rainy weather; a large amount of water can lead to the death of plants. Ideal option for chrysanthemums there is a place near hedges; it will transmit light to the flowers and protect them from bad weather.

The flowering period of most varieties falls in autumn, so the light regime should be as natural as possible. If changes are made, the flower petals may change their structure, the stem becomes less durable, and the decorative effect of the flower is significantly reduced.

If the flower does not have enough sun, it will form exclusively flower buds. If the daylight hours are increased, axillary buds, leaves and stems will be formed. That is, for the normal functioning of the plant, it needs normal daylight hours so that all processes take their course.

Watering chrysanthemums:

Be sure to water the plants after planting, this is especially important to do in July. If there is a lack of moisture, especially in sunny, dry weather, flower buds may not form. It is from them that inflorescences will grow in the future.

We must not forget to moisten the soil in the first weeks after planting seedlings or cuttings that have not yet been rooted. The soil should be fertile, preferably loamy, with an acidity level of 6.5. Loamy soil retains heat well and can protect the flower during cold weather.

Planting indoor chrysanthemums

If you take a bucket of soil, you will need a small pot of bone meal, about 7 cm in size. The pot is not completely filled with compost; 1/3 of the container is not filled. The sprout is added to the mixture. It is installed so that the roots are on the surface, after which the remaining compost is filled in. There is no need to press the soil tightly after planting to avoid damaging the roots. Also, several plants should not be located close to each other.

At the initial stage of cultivation, the soil is moistened with a spray bottle; it should not have time to dry out.

0.5 parts dry manure

Watering is carried out the day before transplanting the chrysanthemum into a new pot and immediately after. Until the stems of the plant become stronger, they will need support. There is no need to replant the plant anymore, only if the roots have broken through to the surface of the earth.

Chrysanthemums are not only capable of decorating any interior. They are valued for their ability to be grown for cutting. For the latter they are used annual species, in particular the keeled chrysanthemum. In order for potted chrysanthemums to develop more actively, you can use various stimulating biological products. They activate the growth of dormant buds, after which the crown becomes thicker and more buds are formed.

The following drugs are used:

Reproduction, care of chrysanthemums and possible problems

Chrysanthemums can be propagated by several methods:

By cuttings

The easiest way to propagate chrysanthemums is by cuttings. In addition, you are guaranteed to get the same beautiful bush as an adult. The procedure is carried out in the spring and summer.

When the ambient temperature reaches +18 degrees, you will notice that new shoots with matte leaves appear on the bush. These shoots will be used for propagation; they are cut off when they reach a length of no more than 25 cm. For rooting to occur successfully. a plot of land with rich, loose soil is prepared and shading is done.

The most common diseases and pests of chrysanthemums:

Powdery mildew Root bacterial canker Aphid Chrysanthemum nematode