Their owners try to build most bathhouses in the form of separate buildings, located away from the house in a secluded and clean corner summer cottage or private household. Sometimes the choice of the place where it is planned to build a bathhouse is dictated by the desire to hide the building from prying eyes, but more often the location is “tied” to a source of water, firewood or gas, trying to place the steam room on the leeward side of the main building or so that the sun heats up the pitched roof of the bathhouse as much as possible .

Why is a bathhouse under a pitched roof most often built?

The first and main reason why a bathhouse with pitched roof More popular among steam room lovers is the practicality of the pitched roof design. If you compare it with any other roofing options for a bathhouse, other advantages become obvious:

• Designs for a bathhouse with a pitched roof are much simpler and more affordable than a hip or gable roof design, while no one makes any special demands on the beauty of a bathhouse building with a pitched roof. Unless, of course, the bathhouse is being built for advertising purposes. Any professionally built bathhouse with a neat pitched roof, as in the photo, looks very nice;
• A bathhouse is not a house, so an attic or attic is not needed for the building, and a pitched roof will provide thermal insulation no worse than a gable roof during a visit to the steam room;
• It is quite possible to make a pitched roof for a bathhouse with your own hands or with the participation of one or two assistants, in two or three days.

Advice! Before you finally choose one of the many designs for a bathhouse with a flat pitched roof, orient the location of the building on the ground so that the wind blows from the lower part of the roof, and the air currents seem to run onto the inclined plane of the roof.

Build a pitched roof with your own hands

The design of a bathhouse with a pitched roof is not particularly difficult in practical implementation. In open sources you can find detailed tips, and even precise recommendations on how to make a pitched roof. But, before moving on to choosing the final scheme, drawing up an estimate and the practical construction of a pitched roof, you should decide how to make a pitched roof and position it relative to the porch, dressing room, steam room and sauna stove. Most often, a bathhouse with a flat pitched roof is built in the following layout options:

1. The entrance to the bathhouse and the rest room with a dressing room are located in the higher part of the bathhouse building. This allows you to install a large window and make high ceilings in the dressing room, but at the same time makes it impossible to build summer terrace at the entrance to the bathhouse. In addition, the stove will have to be installed in the center of the roof or on the low edge of the slope, which is very inconvenient.
2. The porch of the bathhouse should be built under the overhang of the roof. In this case, the steam room and stove will be located on the opposite side of the building. This arrangement will allow you to divide the ceiling space into two parts and raise the floors and ceilings of the steam room by 0.5-1 m above the level of the entrance to the room. Under the overhang of the roof, if the walls are of sufficient height, you can complete a summer terrace and turn it with an entrance to the sunny side.
3. The location of the entrance to the bathhouse can be done from the end of the building, thereby reducing the influence of the pitched roof on the location of the premises inside the bathhouse. But in this case it will be necessary to significantly raise the height of the walls of the bathhouse.

Each of the options has its advantages and disadvantages, so before making a pitched roof, think through all the nuances in advance.

We build a pitched roof for a bathhouse with our own hands step by step

At the first stage, you need to decide on the angle of inclination and type of roofing material. For smooth surfaces made of metal and corrugated sheets, you can take an angle of 15 degrees. For soft roof, bitumen and clay tiles, slate corner pitched roof it is necessary to raise to 25-30 o.

The next step will be to calculate the required dimensions of the beams and beams for arranging the rafters and ceiling beams. If the dimensions of the bathhouse building do not exceed 3x4m, a four-meter 50x150mm pine board can be used as beams for the rafters. For floor beams in increments of 50 cm, we take a standard 100x150 mm beam, although its strength is more than enough for such a small room. It will be necessary to make a ridge purlin from the same timber, on which the rafter legs will rest and transfer the weight of the roof.

Most often, a pitched roof with a reinforced ceiling is built for a bathhouse that does not have a solid wall inside the room that can be used as supports for struts or supports. These are small buildings with wooden walls inside. This is how they build frame types baths An iron or cast iron stove is installed inside such a bathhouse on a light foundation or without it. The massive ceiling makes it possible to take on the bulk of the load.

Advice! A reinforced ceiling will come in handy if suddenly, for objective reasons, you decide to install much heavier slate or clay tiles instead of light metal tiles.

To unload the central part of the rafters of long pitched roofs, it is better to use a vertical support beam than a strut. The latter is easier to manufacture, but it is less effective.

For a bathhouse with wall dimensions of 6x4 or more, it is recommended to use intermediate supports for rafters and struts for the ridge girder in a pitched roof. In this case, the rigidity of the ceiling beams of a pitched roof is not enough, so it is better to provide an internal brick wall on the foundation. Most often in a bathhouse, this wall separates the steam room from the dressing room and serves as a support for the beds and struts of the pitched roof.

Before assembling the frame of a pitched roof, a mauerlat made of a thick 200x50mm board is laid on the brick or cinder block walls of the bathhouse. Under the board it is necessary to lay a layer of waterproofing made of roofing felt and mastic. If the walls of the bathhouse are made of wooden beam, the top row of laid material can be used as a mauerlat, and the plane of the beam must be carefully aligned with the horizon.

The dimensions of the boards for the rafter legs are determined after installing the supports and the top beam of the ridge girder. Using the manufactured template, we make cuts on the supporting surfaces in the upper and lower parts of each rafter. Thus, each of the rafters will have two main points - on the mauerlat and one unloading point on the support.

Frame assembly

Installation rafter legs on the Mauerlat and ridge beam can be done in two versions. In the first case, the rafter beam in a pitched roof rests on a ridge girder in the center and a mauerlat. The main attachment point for the rafters is at the ridge beam. Beams are usually assembled using steel brackets or crossbars. The rafters rest on the Mauerlat in a free state, with a wire tightening of the lower part of the beam. Thanks to this, the rafter beam can slightly “play” under load without deforming the frame of the pitched roof on the bathhouse.

If the bathhouse is assembled from timber or rounded logs, experts recommend installing the rafters on a ridge beam with a hinged fastening. This will allow all rafters of a pitched roof to level the deck in the event of wall sagging.

If you have little experience in assembling a pitched roof, it is better to assemble the frame from rafter beams on a bathhouse “on the black”, with preliminary fastening of all elements using wood screws measuring 100-120 mm. When aligning the position of all elements, the beams are connected using steel brackets made of reinforcement, wire and wooden plates.

After assembling the frame of the pitched roof, a sheathing of boards, 15-20 mm thick, is placed on the rafters.

Laying thermal insulation and roofing

Under the sheathing it is necessary to lay a layer of vapor barrier and two layers of waterproofing. To lay corrugated sheets, you will need to fill an additional frame to the dimensions of the sheet so that the overlap areas of adjacent sheets are in the same plane. To do this, use a wooden strip and a dimensional template to help maintain the step of laying the fastener.

Under a soft roof for a bathhouse, you will need to sew up a pitched roof with a solid board or a waterproof option OSB boards. Before laying a vapor barrier, the wood must be treated with an antiseptic. A layer of roofing felt or roofing felt is glued on top of the slab or board with mastic, overlapping the edges by 10 cm. Next, a layer of soft roofing is laid directly on the molten mastic.

Ceiling insulation

If the angle of inclination of a pitched roof is small, in this case it is considered more convenient to lay ceiling insulation and vapor barrier before assembling the flooring. To do this, cranial bars are sewn to the ceiling beams. The ceiling lining will be attached to the bars from the inside.

A ceiling made of pine or hardwood boards treated with a waterproof antiseptic is laid on the skull strips. Next, a layer of vapor barrier polyethylene film with an aluminum foil reflector is laid. At the next stage, a ventilation gap is created, up to 3 cm thick, and a layer of thermal insulation mats is laid over the sheathing. Stuffed on top of the thermal insulation of the bathhouse ceiling wooden plank 1.5-2 cm or coniferous lining, it is advisable to seal the seams between the boards with elastic material.

A bathhouse with a pitched roof is a very popular option for the construction of inexpensive buildings, used in various climatic regions of the country.

This design has a number of advantages.

1. Easy to install. With little practical skills construction work You can make a pitched roof yourself without the involvement of expensive specialists.
2. Small financial costs. For arrangement rafter system requires a small amount of lumber and roofing materials. Another plus is that there are no strict quality requirements; the rafter system can be assembled from scraps of boards and beams. The total cost of a pitched roof is at least two times less than a gable roof with the same floor area.
3. Reliability. The angle of inclination of a pitched roof is easily adjusted depending on the magnitude of snow and wind loads. There are no valleys on a flat roof - the most likely places for leaks to occur.

The angle of inclination of a pitched roof must be more than 15°; specific values ​​should be selected taking into account operating conditions. In practice, it is recommended to slope the slope at least 25°, this improves the tightness of the coating and makes it easier for wet snow to melt away in the spring.

Based on the peculiarities of fixing the rafters, shed roofs are divided into several types.

In the pitched roofs of bathhouses there is very limited attic space; it is impossible to adapt them for living quarters (attics). In this regard, they are not insulated, various moisture-proof diaphragms, etc. are not used.

Structural elements of pitched roofs and materials for their manufacture

We will provide a list of design elements and general recommendations by choice of materials.

1. Mauerlat. The purpose is to serve as a support for the rafter legs. It can be made from boards 40–50 mm thick or bars with a cross-section of at least 50×50 mm. Fixed to load-bearing walls special dowels or pieces of reinforcement Ø6–8 mm.
2. Rafter legs. Withstands loads from snow and wind and transfers forces to load-bearing structures façade walls. Manufactured from boards ≥30mm thick, specific values ​​selected on site. The greater the distance between the elements, the thicker the boards should be and vice versa.
3. Lathing. Serves for fixing roofing materials. For soft coverings, OSB or plywood is used; for hard coverings, any boards or slats can be used.
4. Pediments. They protect the attic space from wind and snow, sheathed with edged boards or any modern finishing sheets.

Table. Roofing materials that can be used to cover slopes.

Name of roofing material	Brief description of performance characteristics
	For production, sheet steel with a thickness of at least 0.5 mm is used. The top layer has additional protection against corrosion processes with polymer dyes.
	The cheapest coating for baths, bending strength indicators depend on the thickness of the sheet and the height of the profiles.
	Soft coating has excellent performance and design characteristics. It is installed only on a continuous sheathing, which increases the cost of the bathhouse roof.
	Currently rarely used. Heavy roofing material, requires a reinforced rafter system.

When selecting specific roofing coverings, take into account as many factors as possible, including the financial capabilities of the developer.

Step-by-step instructions for building a flat roof for a bathhouse

For example, consider the installation flat roof in a bathhouse made of foam blocks. Such construction options are currently widespread due to the optimal price-quality ratio. In addition, the entire construction process can be completed in a few weeks; there is no need to wait a year for the wooden frame to completely dry and shrink.

Step 1. Prepare waterproofing for the Mauerlat. It is better to use traditional roofing felt; it is much cheaper than modern waterproofing materials, and is in no way inferior to them in efficiency. Cut the roofing material into strips; the width of the strips should be 5–10 cm greater than the width of the wall. For work, use a hacksaw for metal or wood with fine teeth.

Practical advice. To make a long roll easier to cut, roll it tightly and wrap it with tape. During cutting, it will not spread to the sides; the strips will turn out to be perfectly even in width.

Step 2. On the mauerlat, mark the locations of the rafters. The standard distance between them is approximately 60 cm, but it is adjusted taking into account the thickness of the lumber. Most baths have small roofs; to make rafters, it is enough to take boards approximately 30 mm thick.

Step 3. Place the Mauerlat on the wall, mark the places for fixing with dowels. Make sure that they do not fall into the joints between the blocks and are located approximately in their middle. Due to this, the strength of the Mauerlat fastening increases. It is subject to thrust loads; the fastening of the Mauerlat board to the wall must be very reliable.

Practical advice. To make the work easier, you should first drill holes in the boards, and then lay them flat on the wall and drill out the blocks.

First you need to secure one dowel, level the position, and then on the opposite side the second one. Take your time, carefully monitor the position of the Mauerlat elements. The holes in the blocks should be 2–3 cm deeper than the length of the metal part of the dowels. This is done so that the remaining dust does not interfere with the full insertion of the dowels into the hole.

Step 4. Remove the board and drive the metal parts of the dowels into the holes. Place strips of roofing felt on top and make holes above the dowels. You can use an ordinary nail, as long as the end of the bolt can fit into the threaded part of the dowel.

Step 5. Place the board in place and screw it tightly. If the board has a small propeller, then there is no need to align it by tightly tightening the bolts. Tighten them with medium force, and after the board is pressed against the rafter legs, you can tighten the bolts further.

Using the same scheme, fix all the Mauerlats on the bathhouse. Check all the parameters again, if they correspond to the specified dimensions, then you can start making the rafter system.

Calculator for calculating the load on the rafters of a pitched roof

Specify the angle of the roof slope

Specify the selected type roofing

Asbestos-cement slate of regular profile Asbestos-cement slate of reinforced profile Cellulose-bitumen sheets (Euroslate, Ondulin) Roofing iron (galvanized steel) Soft tiles Metal tiles, corrugated sheets Ceramic tiles Cement-based tiles Polymer-sand tiles Soft roofing - roofing felt on bitumen mastic in two layers

Determine on the map and indicate the zone of your region by level snow load

I II III IV V VI VII

Determine on the map and indicate the zone of your region by wind pressure level

Ia I II III IV V VI VII

Specify the building location area

Specify the height of the roof above the ground

No more than 5 meters - from 5 to 10 meters

Below you will be asked to enter the proposed rafter installation step. By changing this indicator, you can achieve optimal value distributed load on rafter legs

Rafter installation pitch, meters

Installation of the rafter system

Before starting work, you should determine the angle of the roof slope. We have already mentioned that it is recommended to make a slope of at least 25°, but make the final decision taking into account the size of the roof and the climate zone where the bathhouse is located. The larger the building, the higher the slope. Otherwise, the snow will not melt well in the spring and will have to be removed manually. If this is not done in a timely manner, there is a risk of deformation of the rafter system and roofing materials. The consequences of such a phenomenon can be very sad.

Step 1. Prepare the vertical supports. They are made from 100×100 mm timber. The racks can be either on one wall or on two, there is no fundamental difference, the main thing is to withstand the slope of the slope.

Practical advice. Professionals recommend making racks only on one side; on the opposite side, the rafter legs will rest directly on the mauerlat. This solution not only reduces time and the amount of materials, but also increases the stability of the structure. The fewer fixation points, the stronger the rafter system.

Once you have decided on the angle of inclination, transfer the dimensions to the bars. Distance between vertical posts approximately 1.5–2.0 m for a horizontal beam with a cross section of 100×100 mm. If the strapping is made of thinner material, then the distance between the posts must be reduced.

Step 2. Proceed to install the vertical supports. It is more convenient to fix them with metal corners and self-tapping screws; fastening must be done on both sides. First, secure the two outer supports, stretch a rope between them and install the remaining elements along it. If necessary, adjust the height of the supports; they should lie strictly along the line.

Step 3. Attach horizontal beams to the supports. If the rafters rest on supports on both sides, then the same work should be done on the other side of the bathhouse.

The most difficult moment for beginners is the manufacture and fastening of rafters to the Mauerlat; we will consider these operations in detail.

Making rafters

You need to start preparing the rafters by filing down the heels.

Step 1. Place the board on a flat surface. Mark the point where the rafter leg touches the Mauerlat. Draw a line under the square.

Step 2. Mark the depth of the heel on the line.

Step 3. Using a universal square with a movable scale, draw the cutting angle of the ends of the rafters. You need to mark it at the top point of the perpendicular line.

Step 4. Place the rectangular angle at the marked heel depth point, one leg should align with the previously drawn line. Outline the position of the legs of the square with a pencil, you will get the outline of the heel. At the bottom there will be 90°, and the long leg lies flat on the Mauerlat. Using the same algorithm, cut out the heel at the point of attachment to the support truss.

It is better to cut the rafters with a circular hand saw. Prepare one rafter and carefully check its dimensions. To do this, you need to climb onto the roof of the bathhouse and temporarily put it in place. If any deviations are found, correct them. In the future, use this leg as a template and prepare all other elements according to size.

Algorithm for fixing rafter legs

After all the elements are prepared, you can begin fixing them on the roof. It's easier to work together.

Step 1. Install the rafter on the mauerlat according to the previously made markings. Prepare two metal corners, self-tapping screws and coupling bolts with a nut or studs of the appropriate length and diameter.

The rafter is installed on the mauerlat (for example, it will not stand here)

Practical advice. Professionals strongly recommend not using black screws, but using colored ones. The fact is that black self-tapping screws, to increase strength, heat up and become brittle when exceeded permissible loads they break. In addition, black screws rust. Hardware made of non-ferrous alloys do not have such disadvantages.

Step 2. On one side, screw the rafters to the mauerlat metal corners. Their vertical plane should be in contact with the rafters; make sure that during fixation the rafter legs do not change their original position.

Step 3. Drill a hole in the leg for the pin. It is very important that the drill is strictly perpendicular to the plane of the rafter, otherwise the hole on the opposite side will not coincide with the hole in the metal square.

Step 4. Install the corner on the other side, attach it with self-tapping screws.

Step 5. Insert a metal pin into the holes and tighten the corners using nuts.

Using this method, the outer rafters are installed, a rope is stretched between them and all the others are mounted along it. If during construction deviations of the rafters from the plane are discovered, then they can be corrected during the manufacture of the sheathing.

Practical advice. To increase the strength of fixation of the rafters, you can screw another corner to the bottom plane. The self-tapping screws in it will work for shearing, which will significantly increase the strength and stability of the rafter system.

How to increase the length of rafters

The roof of the bathhouse has small sizes, the loads on it are insignificant. The standard length of the boards is 6 m, and the width of the bath is often much less than this value. As a result, after manufacturing entire rafters, a large number of segments 1.5–2 m long remain; using them for the further construction of various elements of the bathhouse is quite problematic. It is much more profitable not to throw away the sections, but to build them up and use them for the rafter system. How to build up boards so that their load-bearing capacity does not decrease?

Step 1. Place two prepared rafters next to each other with an overlap; they should overlap each other by about 90–100 cm. The lower the roof angle, the greater the overlap should be. This is due to the fact that when the angle of inclination of the slope decreases, the load on the rafters increases. Temporarily secure the rafters with self-tapping screws; they can be removed later.

Step 2. Drill holes in the boards in a checkerboard pattern at a distance of approximately 40–50 cm from each other.

Important. The holes should not only be staggered, but also not located on the same line. Due to this technology, the likelihood of cracking of the boards due to their weakening by holes is minimized.

Step 3. Insert the studs and tighten the nuts firmly. The force should be such that the washers are completely sunk into the boards, this will prevent loosening of the extension points while the lumber is drying.

To increase the reliability of the connection of the boards, it is recommended, in addition to the studs, to additionally tighten them with nails. The length of the nails should be at least 3 cm greater than the thickness of the two rafter boards. Nails are driven into boards not at right angles, but at an angle. This is done so that the body of the hardware passes at an angle to the growth rings and does not split the lumber. Professional builders advise driving nails in this way.

Once all the rafters are in place, you can begin to make the sheathing. We have already mentioned that the type of sheathing depends on the roofing materials used. In our case, the roof is covered with profiled sheets; second-grade unedged boards (be sure to remove the bark) or slats can be used for the sheathing. The distance between the slats is selected taking into account the angle of inclination of the slope and the load-bearing characteristics of the roofing sheets, but in any case they must have at least three rows of hardware on one sheet.

Practical advice. If during work it turns out that the rafter system is not stable enough, then install jibs between the vertical supports. They should be at the corners of the structure; if this is not enough, then support the middle supports.

Construction of sheathing

Step 1. Nail the sheathing to the rafters. The work will be much faster if you make a basic template to control the distance between the boards. It can be made from any piece of slats. Place the template in the middle of the already installed sheathing and nail the next one along it. This will make it possible to screw in the screws for fastening the corrugated sheet exactly along the line, regardless of the width of the boards.

Practical advice. It is much easier not to immediately cut the sheathing boards to length, but after installing the roofing sheets.

Step 2. Attach the corrugated sheet. Work much faster with an assistant. One feeds and holds the sheet, and the second screws it. Going alone is not only difficult, but also dangerous. By the way, working on the roof yourself is strictly prohibited by safety regulations, and they are written on the basis of tragic experience.

Step 3. Once the corrugated board is secured, carefully cut off the protruding ends of the sheathing boards. It is better to work with a hand-held circular saw; if you don’t have one, you can use an ordinary hacksaw.

Step 4. On the sides of the roof, install vertical posts between the outer rafters and the mauerlat. They are also fixed with metal squares and perforated plates. The casing is subsequently attached to these stops.

Important. All work on the roof can be done only after the bathhouse has at least a rough ceiling. Do not try to walk on poorly laid planks on the floor beams; this is very dangerous and can cause serious injury.

Now you can start covering the gables. If there are edged jointed boards or wooden lining– great, the bathhouse will have a traditional look. If lumber is unavailable for some reason, then any finishing materials can be used. Sheathing can be done with profiled sheets, moisture-resistant OSB boards, plastic lining etc.

It is advisable to make a passage to the attic space. It's very simple, after covering the gable, cut a hole of the appropriate size and secure it around the perimeter with thick boards. And from the cut out pieces make a simple door on hinges. Having an entrance to the room from the street is much more convenient than from inside the bathhouse. In addition, making a hole through the ceiling is much more difficult, and heat leaves the premises during use.

And one last thing. If your roof is more than six meters long, then you should use two rafter support frames. The second must necessarily have an emphasis on the main load-bearing partition. It is strictly forbidden to use a ceiling beam for these purposes.

Video - Installation of a pitched roof on a bathhouse

A pitched roof for a bathhouse occupying a small area is the most the best option arrangement of the roof structure. This type of roof does not require the installation of a complex load-bearing power system during installation. A pitched roof for a bathhouse can be assembled with your own hands from almost any roofing building material. With pitched roofs, it is best to build bathhouses and verandas combined in one complex.

Before you start designing with a pitched roof, it is best to familiarize yourself with possible options design projects based on photos located on the pages of specialized sites that are dedicated to the construction of various designs of bath complexes.

Slope angle single-pitch design depends on the load exerted on the surface of the roof plane by precipitation in winter period time and pressure exerted on the plane by the wind. In regions where loss is observed large quantity snow, increase the angle of inclination of the structure and make it steeper.

The slope of such a roof is an angle of more than 15 0 C. A steeper roof contributes to the rapid melting of snow in winter. If strong winds are observed in the area where the structure is being built, it is recommended to build a flatter roof with a smaller angle of inclination.

The shed roof structure is ideal for developing projects. frame baths .Excellent location country house It looks like a two-story bathhouse with a pitched roof. On the second floor of such a bathhouse you can equip rest rooms.

Construction of a pitched roof for a bathhouse complex

Before you start installing a pitched roof for a bathhouse with your own hands, you should study in detail the design of this type of roof.

The design of a pitched roof for a bathhouse is extremely simple. The slope angle of the installed roof is formed by erecting walls of different heights on opposite sides of the building. The roof structure can be made in two variations:

• with attic;
• no attic.

When installing a structure without an attic, the inside of the roof is also the ceiling bath complex. In order for such a structure to perform its functions, it is necessary to secure the sheathing and insulate the load-bearing structures of the roof from the inside. When arranging the attic space in the bathhouse, it will be necessary to carry out installation work to install horizontal ceiling joists.

The roof structure rests on rafters laid on the walls of the structure. For installation of rafters, special grooves are prepared in the upper crown. The rafters are laid in increments of 0.6 to 1.2 m. The sheathing is installed on the rafters. Waterproofing and roofing material are installed on top of the sheathing system.

A bathhouse with a pitched roof is very easy to erect, but before installing the structure, you should study its features from photos on specialized websites dedicated to construction topics.

A single-pitched roof without arranging an attic space is used in the construction of bathhouse complexes with a small area. If the length of the roof slope is more than 4 m in length, then additional supports are mounted under the rafters, which at their lower end rest on the ceiling beams, which form the basis of the floor.

The following can be used as roofing material during installation work when installing a pitched roof:

• rolled - glass insulation, roofing felt or soft roofing;
• metal corrugated sheet – sheets of corrugated sheets and metal tiles;
• ondulin.

Slate or sheet metal, as a roofing building material for a pitched roof, is used quite rarely, since these building materials are heavy, which leads to a heavier roof structure.

At the last stage, the structure is insulated.

Advantages of using a pitched roof and features of the use of materials

During construction small bathhouse The roof surface area is about 15 m2. For this reason, using a lean-to structure is the best option. The construction of such a structure will save significant financial resources. When designing a bathhouse complex and its roof, it should be remembered that the larger the roof area, the more material will be required for the construction of the structure, while not only the costs of building materials increase, but also the time for.

When constructing a roof, not only its design features, but also the materials used during installation work. When carrying out work, you should select those Construction Materials, which are optimally suited for construction taking into account the design features. So, for example, at slope angles from 8 to 9 0, the optimal building material for the roof is corrugated sheeting; for a roof with a slope angle of up to 25 0, it is best to use metal tiles; for roofs with a slope angle of 5 0, you can use roofing felt.

The choice of materials used for thermal insulation of the roof depends entirely on the characteristics of the further use of the bath complex. If it is planned to operate the structure for a period all year round, then it is best to create it under a roof.

When using a bathhouse only in the warm season, you can insulate the roof slope. This installation option is cheaper, but is unacceptable when operating the structure in winter.

Materials and tools used in the work

When carrying out installation work, you will need to prepare a certain list of building materials:

• edged wood boards with a thickness of 40 to 60 mm;
• 20 mm board and moisture-resistant plywood for mounting the sheathing;
• building materials for installation of roof waterproofing;
• building materials for installation of roofing;
• construction edged board for mounting the ceiling plane;
• insulation material.

During the work you will need the following tools:

• manual electric jigsaw;
• electric screwdriver;
• knife for cutting building materials for hydro-, steam- and thermal insulation;
• construction tape;
• hammer;
• construction stapler.

In addition, it is necessary to prepare antiseptic and fire retardant solutions for treatment wooden structures, which is required due to the fact that the bathhouse is a room with a high moisture content in the air and at the same time a fire hazard. Wood processing allows you to extend the service life of wooden structures.

To properly insulate the roof, various heat-insulating building materials are used. Such materials can be fibrous insulation made from mineral or stone wool. When installing a roof without an attic, insulation is carried out directly under the roof space, and if there is attic space insulate the ceiling of the bath room.

Installation of a building roof frame

If it is necessary to install a roof with an attic space, it is necessary to prepare beams. The size of their cross-section depends entirely on the area of ​​the bathhouse complex and the weight of the materials used to create the roof. The installation step of beam structures in the attic space should be in the range from 0.6 to 1.2 m.

After installing the beam system, you can begin work on installing the rafter system. The rafters of the supporting roof structure are located at a distance of 0.6 to 1.2 m from each other. The distance between them depends on the type of structure and the weight of the material used to cover the roof. In addition, the cross-section of the rafters is affected by the amount of precipitation that falls at the site of construction of the bathhouse complex in winter.

There are several types of load-bearing structure of a pitched roof. The use of one design or another depends on the size of the bath complex. For example, with a bathhouse width of 6 m, an additional bench is used, on which the rafter leg rests. This support structure element provides additional stability to the entire roof support system.

When building a bathhouse from logs or beams, the last crown of the walls serves as a support when installing the roof support structure. If stone or brick is used as a material for building a bathhouse, it is necessary to lay a timber beam on top of the wall to secure the rafter system. Before laying, a layer of waterproofing should be first applied to the walls.

To add rigidity to the structure, various spacers, ties and jumpers are used. As a material for making additional elements The supporting structure uses wood.

Installation of sheathing and roofing material

Once the installation of the supporting roof structure is completed, installation of the sheathing begins. The distance between the sheathing elements fixed to the supporting structure depends entirely on the size and weight of the material used to cover the roof plane.

When using a soft roof made on the basis of bitumen as a covering, or when using ceramic tiles, the sheathing should be made continuous. Treated boards or moisture-resistant plywood are used as building materials. When using roofing material in sheet form, thinned sheathing can be used.

If heavy roofing building materials are used in the roof structure, it is best to install metal profiles.

Upon completion of the installation work on assembling the supporting structure and sheathing, the wood is treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant.

After all installation work has been completed load-bearing frame and sheathing, followed by treating all wood structures with special chemical compounds, you can begin to work with waterproofing and roofing materials.

First, building materials are laid to provide hydro- and vapor barrier to the roof structure. When using roofing felt or roofing felt as a roofing material, the number of layers of vapor and waterproofing material must be at least three.

The roofing material should be laid from bottom to top, overlapping. The building material is secured using fasteners.

After installing the roofing material, the gables are sheathed and the roof is insulated with heat-insulating building materials. When insulating the space between the rafters in the attic, mats made of mineral or stone wool are laid and secured in the space between the rafters. After laying the insulation, sheathing is carried out finishing material. When insulating the ceiling space, the insulation is placed in the space between the ceiling joists and sewn up with finishing material.

A pitched roof is an economical and convenient design, but it is inconvenient if it is necessary to arrange an attic; in this case, it is best to use a gable or mansard structure.

Frame bath with a pitched roof - another step-by-step educational technology for building a bathhouse. Photo project for DIY construction. This project is a cross between a small bathhouse for a summer residence, with the only caveat that it is a budget option a bathhouse that is not inferior in functionality to a normal full-fledged bathhouse, except perhaps without a swimming pool.

Frame bathhouse with a pitched roof - foundation

For such a bathhouse with a pitched roof, absolutely any foundation is suitable, be it pile, or. Therefore, we will not dwell on this topic. Let it be a shallow tape. After constructing the foundation, we lay the beds as shown in the photo. We will use a 150×25 mm board.

Professional builders will now be stunned. The next step will be making the overlap. We will make the ceiling from 50×50 mm timber. I found this technology for constructing floors on the Internet, after thinking about it, I realized that this technology has a right to life, but since I have not tried it, there is nothing more to say. Therefore, I am sharing it with you, so to speak, at my own peril and risk, but I can say that I will definitely try it. I liked it because the speed of construction of such a ceiling breaks all records. Well, for the rest, I can say that you can get by with a regular ceiling by making it yourself. And so, we lay the timber on the bed, leaving 5 centimeters on each side of the bed.

From above, across, we lay another row of bars. I would like to add that you can lay osb or 20 boards on the beds, thereby closing the underground space. And each layer of timber can be insulated mineral wool, thereby creating a fairly warm floor.

We lay the third layer of timber. Although I think maybe two will be enough for a bath. But as they say, the cake should be made of three layers, so we will not deviate from technology.

We lay 50×150 mm along the upper perimeter. board and firmly fasten everything together.

Then we lay the floor. It is better to lay the floor for a bathhouse from boards, but in principle you can also use osb with a thickness of 12 mm. in two layers, laying it in a checkerboard pattern.

Frame bath - walls

Let's start construction frame walls with your own hands. For ease of perception, I will assemble the walls standing up; in life, it is better to assemble the baths on the finished floor, and then, with the help of a friend, install them in place.

Assembling the front wall of the bathhouse. We will assemble it from a 50×150 mm board. or 50×100 mm. I will use 50x100 mm. I think this should be quite enough for such a bath. The height of the front wall will be 250 cm. We will cut the racks at 260-270 cm and nail a board to the bottom of the racks. We'll nail a board to the side on top of the racks, then you'll understand why.

We assemble the back wall using the same principle. Its height will be 220 cm. We will cut the racks to 240-250 cm.

Assembling the side wall. Using the upper side board we set the slope we need. In our in this case will be 30 cm between the front and back walls.

After we have aligned everything, we simply take and cut off the excess on the racks.

As a result, we get this design. We assemble the last side wall according to the previous one, as if using a pattern.

Then we screw the top boards onto the walls. remove the side ones. We install the walls in place, check the evenness of the structure with a building level, and then fasten them together thoroughly, not forgetting to screw the walls to the floor. The next step we will do jib. There are no photos with the jibs, I forgot. I think I'm sorry. The jibs will add substantial rigidity to this structure, so we will not neglect them. The jibs are installed with the edge of the board from the top of the corner to the bottom of the middle of the building.

BATH EQUIPMENT (SHRINKED)

WALL SET

Our clients are offered inexpensive basic equipment for shrink-fit construction, which allows the first initial stage put the log house of the bathhouse under the roof, and then begin to carry out finishing works. If necessary, the company’s specialists will calculate the cost of additional options.

The cost of this bath is calculated taking into account classic sawn timber 150 x 150 mm and profiled timber 145 x 145 mm. At the client's request, the bathhouse frame can be built from larger timber. For the construction of timber baths, in most cases, profiled timber 145 x 145 mm is used. Baths built with timber wall thicknesses from 195 mm (200 mm) are ideal for year-round use as country houses. country houses. Increasing the thickness of timber walls will reduce the heat loss of the building, and will also give the bathhouse an elegant appearance. appearance. Each of the proposed types of timber has its own advantages. For example, beams processed mechanically using special equipment, they obtain a geometrically even shape from the outside and inside and have a smooth surface, which will significantly reduce the cost of finishing work in the future. IN modern construction Dry timber is increasingly being used chamber drying, the properties of which allow you to begin interior or exterior decoration immediately after assembling the log house.

For the manufacture of bathhouse sets from timber, environmentally friendly wood from the Kostroma region is used.

The wall kit price includes:

Design drawings and specifications of the bathhouse (AR, KR);
- production of timber for construction. Northern forest, Kostroma region;
- waterproofing the foundation with roofing felt;
- embedded (tying) row of timber 150 x 150 mm;
- treatment of the embedded crown with an antiseptic;
- external, main walls made of timber 150 x 150 mm (corrugated timber 145 x 140 mm);
- interior walls from timber 150 x 100 mm (profiled timber 145 x 90 mm);
- pediments chopped from timber 150 x 150 mm (profiled timber 145 x 140 mm);
- ceiling height - 2 m 20 cm (clean, after shrinkage);
- beam connection " warm corner";
- assembly of the log house on wooden dowels according to technology;
- inter-crown insulation - jute fabric;
- floor joists - made of timber 150 x 100 mm in increments of 0.6 m;
- ceiling beams - made of timber 150 x 100 mm with a pitch of 0.6 m;
- compensation jacks under the terrace, porch;
- delivery and unloading of the log bathhouse and components;
- installation of the house kit by an experienced team (Russians);
- quality control of materials and work.

ROOF

Basic package includes installation roofing system and covering the roof with temporary roofing (roofing felt).

Rafters made of edged boards 150 x 50 mm in increments of 0.6 m;
- installation of rafters is carried out on sliding supports;
- crossbar for stops made of edged boards 150 x 50 mm;
- roof sheathing from edged boards 150 x 20 mm;
- roofing material (roofing felt).

At the request of the client, we can perform roofing work using metal tiles, soft bitumen roofing or ondulin.

FOUNDATION

The foundation is not included in the base price!

When building baths from timber, they are used Various types foundations. The choice of foundation type may depend not only on financial costs, but also on the individual characteristics of the area. In some cases, it is necessary to conduct engineering geological surveys, during which the properties of the soil are studied and the location for construction is determined. Timely geology of the site also allows you to avoid mistakes at the initial stage during design and select the appropriate type of foundation for the structure.

Stages of construction of a bathhouse made of timber

Foundation installation

The foundation for a bathhouse should be selected based on the characteristics of the building site and the size of the log house. The choice of foundation for any structure should be approached thoroughly, and its installation should be entrusted to experienced specialists. Violations of the technology for constructing the base of the bathhouse can lead to additional financial costs. The most suitable for the construction of a timber bath are strip monolithic foundation, pile-screw and foundation on reinforced concrete piles. Our construction teams can build any type of foundation with high quality.

Assembling a log bathhouse

The assembly of a log bathhouse from timber (profiled timber) can be done at any time of the year. For the construction of baths, timber 150 x 150 mm or profiled timber 145 x 145 mm are often used. If necessary, our company can build a larger bathhouse from timber. Jute fabric is used as inter-crown insulation during the construction of baths. Our company also invites you to order a log bathhouse made from chamber-dried timber, which is currently increasingly used in private country construction.

Roofing

Currently, a variety of roofing materials are used in the construction of timber baths. The most popular are metal tiles, ondulin and soft tiles. The proposed basic configuration for the construction of a bathhouse includes a temporary roofing with roofing felt. If the customer wishes, the company’s specialists can carry out installation work using the most modern roofing materials, immediately after assembling the bathhouse frame. The cost and timing of the work depend on the complexity of the design.

Shrinkage of a log bathhouse

Log house of a bath from ordinary or profiled timber natural humidity Before finishing work begins, it must settle and shrink. During the shrinkage process of a log house, the wood shrinks naturally. In addition, a slight decrease in the linear dimensions of structural elements may occur. The technological break after assembling the frame until finishing can be several months. Modern wood processing technologies make it possible to produce a bathhouse set from chamber-drying timber.

Bathhouse finishing on a turnkey basis

The final stage of construction is the final finishing of the bathhouse on a turnkey basis. The cost of finishing work directly depends on the materials used. During the internal and exterior finishing The walls are sanded and painted. The finishing process also includes: installation and insulation of ceilings and floors; production of door casings and window openings, their installation and cashing. After installing windows and doors, hemming the roof overhangs and installing the drainage system, you can use the constructed timber bathhouse for its intended purpose.

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