The technology for constructing houses from aerated concrete blocks is simple.

Even non-professional masons can build it with their own hands.

Technical features

From technical characteristics Experts highlight gas silicate blocks:

• strength;
• light weight;
• the ability to “breathe”;
• sound insulation;
• thermal insulation;
• lack of flammability;
• the ability to process the surface of the material manually.

The main disadvantage of aerated concrete is its low bending strength. To avoid cracks in the walls, the house must be built on a strong foundation. In general, to build this building with your own hands you will need to do the following work:

1. Laying the foundation.
2. Construction of walls from gas silicate blocks.
3. Roof installation.

To do this, you will need the following tools: a saw for aerated concrete, a special trowel for applying glue, a plane for aerated concrete, a level, a rubber hammer, a trowel, a metal brush, buckets, a hammer drill with a drill-mixer. Builders select from materials: special glue, gas silicate blocks, ceramic bricks, roofing felt, cement, sand, bitumen shingles, rafters.

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Calculated data

Before you buy gas silicate blocks, you need to calculate how much of this material is needed to build a house with your own hands. If the dimensions of one block are 200x300x600, then to erect a one-story building with a width and length of ten meters and a height of three meters, it is necessary:

• calculate the perimeter of the house (wall thickness is 300 mm): 10+10+10+10=40 m;
• calculate the area of ​​the external walls: 2*40=120 sq. m;
• subtract the same indicator for windows and doors from the area: 120-10 = 110 sq. m;
• since for one sq. m there are 8.3 gas blocks, for a house of this size you will need 913 pieces. this material.

Average price for different kinds gas silicate blocks are as follows:

• size 600x200x30 millimeters - 110 dollars/cubic meter;
• size 600x100x300 millimeters - 105 dollars/cubic meter;
• size 600x150x300 millimeters - 108 dollars/cub.m.

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Construction of foundation and walls

The construction process associated with the construction of a house from aerated concrete blocks begins with the selection of a foundation and its pouring. This work can be done with your own hands. For this, builders recommend using monolithic reinforced concrete slab or monolithic strip base on a sand bed. You can build a columnar foundation, which will need to be tied with a monolithic reinforced concrete belt.

Since gas silicate blocks are a hygroscopic material, builders recommend placing the first row of these products at a short distance from the ground. There are two options:

1. When building a foundation with your own hands, formwork is constructed. The base is poured above the soil level.
2. If the base is poured at ground level, then you will need to lay out the base yourself from ceramic bricks. It is possible to lay out the first row of blocks at a height of 50 cm from ground level.

In any case, the house needs waterproofing. To do this, two or three layers of a roll of roofing material are laid on the base. As for laying blocks with your own hands, it is initially recommended to lay 4 pieces in the corners. to a “dry” solution. After the corner blocks are aligned using a level, they can be mounted on the mortar. After which the material is tapped with a special rubber hammer. The construction of houses at this stage must be carried out using cement-sand mortar. Subsequent rows are laid with special glue.

After laying the first row along the entire perimeter of the house, it is allowed to add corners a couple of rows in height. In this case, you should monitor the work on the previously laid first row. Be sure to rest the upper block on the two lower ones. In the case when the vertical seam coincides or a minimum distance is formed, then the support of the upper aerated concrete is carried out on three blocks. However, before installation, this material should be moistened with your own hands. This is necessary for adhesion and diffusion depth. The construction of external walls of houses from aerated concrete is not permissible in wet weather. In this case, the cellular structure of this material accumulates moisture, and further temperature changes destroy the block.

Before laying out the next row, you will need to additionally prepare the previous one. To do this, assembly build-ups and sagging are removed from it. Since laying houses with your own hands is carried out with a minimum thickness of seams, the surface of the blocks is immediately cleaned with a trowel and a wire brush. You can remove hardened glue or mortar using an iron plane.

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Glue and solution

The construction of houses made of aerated concrete is carried out using gas silicate glue and cement-sand mortar. To prepare the first mixture with your own hands, experts recommend following the instructions from its manufacturer. Apply ready-made composition onto the blocks so that it does not merge. If differences form along the upper plane of the laid blocks, they should be smoothed out with a special plane for this material.

After laying the row, it is recommended to make an additional block. For these purposes, an aerated concrete saw is used. It is not recommended to use ordinary hacksaws for wood, as the teeth quickly wear off. The construction of subsequent rows is carried out using special glue. In this case, the thickness of the seams should not exceed two to three millimeters. The glue must be mixed in buckets using a drill or hammer drill with a mixer attachment. You can apply glue to the blocks yourself using a simple trowel and a notched trowel. Please note that the additional block is not wetted with water.

• the thickness of the seams should not be less than ten millimeters;
• low thermal conductivity aerated concrete walls gets lost;
• glue consumption, in contrast to cement-sand mortar, is five to six times less;
• laying blocks with your own hands on glue is easier, faster and easier than on cement-sand mortar.

Building a house from aerated concrete is not exactly an easy undertaking, but compared to brick or the same log house, you will have to put in much less effort. We will build a simple cottage on a strip foundation.

If you wish, you can change the characteristics of the building at your discretion - you just need to master the order of laying out the walls, all other activities are carried out as standard for houses made of any materials.

Characteristics of aerated concrete blocks (indicators)	Autoclaved aerated concrete (gas silicate)
Density, kg/m3	500
Compressive strength class	B 2.5-3
Frost resistance, cycles	F50
Relation to moisture	Requires protection
Relation to fire	Does not burn
Operational thermal conductivity, W/m*C	0,14
Thickness outer wall(Moscow region), m	0,5
Monolith Possibility	No

1. Band-saw.
2. Drill.
3. Hand saw.
4. Manual wall chaser.
5. Mixer.
6. Electric cutter.
7. Scraper bucket.
8. Carriages for glue.
9. Notched trowel.
10. Rubber hammer.
11. Sanding float (board).

Making the foundation

Marking the site

We remove everything that is in the way from the site, clear it and begin marking. To do this, we use reinforcing bars and rope.

We determine the axis of the future structure. We take a plumb line and mark the first corner of the foundation. Perpendicular to it, we pull the rope to the second and third corners of the building.

Using a square, mark the 4th corner. We measure the diagonals. If the length is the same, everything is fine, the angles match, you can hammer in the rods and pull the rope.

Similarly, we carry out internal markings of the base, departing from the external order 400 mm ( optimal value width for strip foundation).

We dig trenches around the perimeter of the house and under future internal walls.

Preparing the trenches

We find the lowest point on the site. From here we measure the depth of the hole. Small house can be built on a 40-centimeter tape. For the rest, focus on the features of the structure and the site as a whole (freezing depth, groundwater level).

Digging trenches

Important! The walls of the pit should be vertical and the bottom should be level. We check this with a plumb line and level.

Place a sand cushion at the bottom of the hole and compact it thoroughly. Such a pillow will help to evenly distribute the load on the base in the off-season. Recommended thickness – from 15 cm.

Pour crushed stone onto the sand and lay roofing felt.

Installing formwork

We assemble it from boards, plywood and other similar materials. We fasten the formwork elements using nails or screws.

Important! The height of the formwork is such that it rises above the ground level by at least 300 mm.

We stretch the fishing line along the inner perimeter of the formwork at the level of the upper edge of the future fill.

At the same stage, we think about the arrangement of openings for the entry of water supply and sewerage. To do this, we put in in the right places empty pipes and fill them with sand.

Laying the reinforcement

We take rods with a diameter of 12-14 m. We tie them into a mesh using flexible steel wire. Grid cells can have different sizes. The heavier the house, the smaller the side of the square should be. Most often, a mesh with cells of 20x20 cm is sufficient.

We make a grid according to the dimensions of the trench. Important! We leave 5-centimeter gaps between the laid reinforcing layer, the walls and the top of the trench, so that in the future all reinforcement will be guaranteed to be filled with concrete.

Pouring concrete

We multiply the width of the foundation by its length and height and determine the required volume of concrete. Prepare or order the mixture. For preparation we use the standard recipe:

• cement – ​​1 part;
• crushed stone - 5 parts;
• sand - 3 parts;
• water - to the desired consistency.

Fill in concrete mortar in even layers of approximately 200 mm, do not rush. We compact each layer of fill with a wooden tamper. We pour concrete to the level of the previously stretched rope in the formwork space.

We level the pouring surface using a trowel and pierce the concrete with reinforcement in several places. From the outside, carefully tap the formwork with a wooden hammer.

We give the foundation a month to gain strength. During this time, we cover the structure with polyethylene to protect it from precipitation, and in hot weather we spill it with water to prevent cracking.

Building walls

For construction in this example we use blocks with a tongue-and-groove design. They are simply more comfortable to carry with your hands. You can build from any other aerated blocks - the order of work does not change.

We first clean the upper part of the dried foundation from existing dirt and dust, and then cover it with a layer of roofing material.

For the first row of luggage we use cement-sand mortar. It dries longer than special glue, and we will have the opportunity to adjust the evenness of the row layout. The minimum layer thickness is 10 mm. There are no maximum restrictions. This will allow you to even out differences in height without much effort.

We find the highest angle - we will build from it. We take a fishing line and mark the wall of the house. We lay the first gas block. Then we place a block at each remaining corner and stretch the rope between the building elements.

Be sure to check the evenness of each block. We lay out the first row of blocks around the perimeter of the house and in the construction areas interior walls.

Important! Remember about door openings. Naturally, we skip them.

We take polishing and carefully grind the surface of the starting row. Next, we will do this with each laid row. Thanks to this treatment, we will be able to apply the glue as evenly as possible.

We put the second, and after it the third row. We use special glue for laying gas blocks. We work as on the first row, starting from the corners. We tie the rows, moving them half a block - similar brickwork. The minimum permissible value of such a shift when laying aerated concrete is 80 mm.

To apply glue we use ladles with teeth. We install the blocks as close to each other as possible, as far as our fingers allow, and move them end to end. We check the evenness of the masonry with a level. If necessary, level the blocks using a rubber hammer. We work quickly and smoothly, because... The glue dries very quickly and it will be almost impossible to move the gas block.

Helpful advice! If, when laying the opening, it was not possible to reach the length of the entire gas block, we saw off the excess using a special saw or a simple hacksaw for wood.

Interfloor armored belt. Photo

We equip windows and window sills

In the example under consideration, the window sills have a height of 4 rows of masonry. We reinforce window openings after laying out the 3rd row. A wall chaser will help us with this.

In the place where the window opening is arranged, we cut 2 parallel lines. Their length should extend beyond the boundaries of the window by 300 mm on each side.

We place reinforcement bars in the grooves and secure them with cement-sand mortar. Ready! The wall for installing the window is reinforced.

Important! It is better not to block openings for installing windows. Of course, in the future they can be cut out, but this is a waste of time and effort.

Laying walls. In the photo, simultaneously with the laying of walls, decorative cladding brick

Making jumpers

Gradually we approached the lintels. These structures are needed to strengthen the section of the wall above the door and window openings. Without jumpers, the structure may simply collapse.

Then “permanent formwork” of three rows of blocks:
1. Outside, the block is 150 thick;
2. in the center is a block 150 thick, sawn in half lengthwise;
3. The inside is a block 100 mm thick.

We cut it into “squares” and tie reinforcing bars to them

You can either use ready-made U-shaped blocks (glue them to the required length, install them, lay down reinforcement and fill them with cement mortar) or make the formwork yourself.

For the manufacture of formwork, it is most convenient to use gas blocks 10 cm wide. We fasten the blocks with glue. If it is not possible to buy 10-centimeter blocks, we simply cut a regular gas block into 3 identical pieces.

We glue the blocks to the required length, make 3 longitudinal ditches with a wall chaser, lay reinforcing bars in them, pour in cement mortar and give it a day to dry.

We install the jumpers with the side with the reinforcement facing down. We fill the gaps with gas blocks, if necessary, pre-cut to the required sizes.

Making an armored belt

After arranging the row with window lintels, we begin pouring the armored belt, also known as the seismic belt. The structure is made of reinforced concrete and ensures the integrity of the aerated concrete building.

We take 10-centimeter blocks and form them into formwork around the perimeter of the walls. We fill the ditch with reinforcement and pour cement mortar.

We embed metal pins into the armored belt for attaching the Mauerlat. We can make them from reinforcement. Even more convenient option– threaded studs. It is easier to attach the Mauerlat to them.

At this point the box at home is ready.

We have already installed the Mauerlat. It's time to install the rafters. At this stage, everything is individual - focus on the features of the chosen roofing structure.

Several options are available:

Regardless of the chosen roof structure, it must be equipped with insulating layers: hydro-, heat- and vapor barrier. In some cases (for example, when setting up residential attic) a layer of soundproofing material is installed.

We fix waterproofing material on top of the rafters. The most convenient way to do this is with wooden slats. At the same time, the slats will play the role of a counter-batten, to which the sheathing slats for the roofing material will later be fixed.

Under the waterproofing, we place insulation in the space between the sheathing slats. The most commonly used is mineral wool. If desired, you can choose another material (expanded polystyrene, polystyrene foam, etc.).

We cover the thermal insulation with a layer of vapor barrier film. We attach it to the rafters using wooden slats.

Finally, we lay down the finishing roofing. At this point, focus on your available budget and personal preferences. Most popular materials:

• slate;
• bitumen shingles;
• corrugated sheeting;
• metal tiles;
• ceramic tiles.

Any roofing material lay it starting from the bottom. As a result, the sheets will be secured so that sedimentary moisture can drain without penetrating under the roofing.

At this point, the box of aerated blocks with a roof is ready. Next, you will have to work on installing utilities and finishing, but this is a topic for a separate manual.

Happy work!

Video - Do-it-yourself aerated concrete house

A gas silicate house is a warm, reliable and durable structure. Despite the fact that the design of an economy class house in Bavaria is from gas silicate block is more expensive than a similar project made of brick or concrete, its advantages outweigh it, and developers are increasingly choosing this building material.

Gas silicate is a technological version of foam concrete. It is produced by autoclave processing of common construction components - cement, sand, lime, water and aluminum powder. Aluminum is added for gas formation, and gives the gas silicate unique characteristics. In an autoclave, under the influence of high temperature, the mixed composition increases in volume many times. The mixture is unloaded into molds, where the composition hardens and becomes building blocks from which gas silicate houses can be built.

Advantages:

1. The gas silicate block is five times lighter than the same one concrete block. With a size of 600 x 200 x 300 mm, one gas brick can replace 22 ordinary bricks, the weight of which is approximately one hundredweight. Therefore, the foundation for such a house can be built of a lightweight type;
2. High thermal insulation characteristics based on the porosity of the material. The thermal conductivity of the material is 0.12, for ordinary bricks it is 0.87. Typically, such houses do not require additional insulation;
3. Excellent accumulation and heat retention. In summer, a house made of gas silicate blocks in one row 300 mm thick will not be hot, and in winter it will be warm. To achieve the same result for a house made of ordinary bricks, you need to lay out a wall 600 mm wide;
4. Gas silicate, as a building material, withstands compression well, but worse - tension. Therefore, for the construction of arches and other curved structures it is necessary to make an armored belt or install load-bearing beams;
5. Environmentally friendly material – exterior decoration facades or internal partitions made of this material are safe and reliable;
6. Gas silicate blocks are frost-resistant - their freezing and thawing cycle is 2 times longer than that of ordinary sand-lime brick. Therefore, blocks are often used for insulation finished house with your own hands;
7. High fire resistance - blocks can withstand high temperatures for 180 minutes or more;
8. Excellent sound insulation. Plastered material laid on the side of the house facade blocks ≤65 dB of external noise. This corresponds to the characteristics of a window with a three-layer glass unit. The level of sound insulation also depends on the size of the block.

Flaws:

1. Porosity often leads to fungal diseases of external walls;
2. There is no mechanical fastening of the blocks - they are fastened with an expensive chemical anchor;
3. Three-or two-storey house it is necessary to build from gas silicate blocks on an expensive strip foundation;
4. The use of a reinforcing belt for several floors also makes the construction of a house from gas silicate blocks expensive;
5. If an armored belt is installed, then additional insulation is necessary.

How to apply glue to a gas block

To apply glue to the working side of the block, there is a special construction tool carriage. Its width is equal to the width of the gas brick. The glue can also be applied using a notched trowel or a special ladle with a notched end. work surface. Internal wiring is immediately laid in the right places.

When laying with ordinary mortar, it is necessary to thoroughly wet the blocks, since the gas silicate material quickly draws moisture from the mortar, and the cement-sand mixture becomes less durable. The solution is prepared in proportions 1:3 or 1:4 (cement:sand). The wiring is easier to install in the solution than in glue, and it is easier to dismantle it if necessary.

The laying of aerated concrete blocks can be carried out using adhesive mixtures, which can be purchased at construction stores. These are “MasterOk”, “Pobedit”, “EK KEMILAX” and others, which allow you to make a seam with a thickness of 2-3 mm.

It is convenient to use adhesive mixtures for building a house from gas silicate blocks, since the seam becomes hard within 24 hours. How much glue may be needed to lay 1 m 3 is indicated on the packaging, but usually up to 27 kg. The glue does not transfer heat well, so “cold bridges” in these places are excluded.

Types of gas blocks and quantity calculation

Before you build a house from gas silicate blocks, you need to calculate how many blocks are needed for the house. The easiest way to calculate the number of gas bricks is with an online calculator. The calculations take into account the number of windows and doors, the perimeter, for example, a 10 x 10 house, the height and thickness of the walls, and even the thickness of the seam. In any case, it is recommended to buy 10-15% more material.

The types of gas silicate blocks are as follows:

• Grade D 300 – material density 300 km/m3, thermal conductivity – 0.08 W/m°C. This brand is used for insulation and construction of floors;
• Grade D 400 – density 400 km/m3, thermal conductivity – 0.096 W/m°C, used for insulation and construction of floors;
• D 500 – thermal conductivity 0.12 W/m°C, building a house without insulation;
• Aerated blocks of grade D 600 – thermal conductivity 0.14 W/m°C. When building a house with your own hands from gas silicate blocks, insulation is not necessary if the wall thickness is greater than standard;
• Gas silicate grade D 700 – thermal conductivity 0.17 W/m°C. A house finished with such material requires insulation, so grade D 700 is more often used for internal partitions and walls.

Which brand is better to choose:

1. Grades D 200-D 300 – façade insulation, exterior finishing;
2. Grades D 400-D 600 – for a one-story house, partitions and load-bearing walls;
3. Brands D 500-D 700 – houses with an attic, low-rise (up to three floors) houses;
4. Brand D 700 – used for reinforcing belts.

How to build a house

To build your house, you need to start with the foundation:

1. A trench is being dug for the foundation;
2. Formwork is being made;
3. A reinforcing frame is installed;
4. The foundation is poured from a solution prepared with M200 cement;

Before digging a pit, it is necessary to conduct a geodetic study of the soil. Then the area is marked: to do this, you need to cut off the top layer of soil by 10-15 cm, and set the first corner, from which to mark the perimeter with pegs. To ensure that the external markings of the foundation are square, a cord is pulled diagonally. If the length of the cord along both diagonals coincides, then the angle of 90 0 C is maintained. In the same way, the internal line under the trench is marked.

The trench is dug by hand or with an excavator. Next, we build the formwork from boards, chipboard, OSB or other available materials. A panel design is preferable so that it can be removed more easily. The shields are connected to each other by timber. The formwork should protrude beyond the foundation by 25-30 cm in height to continue the construction of the base.

The reinforcing belt is knitted with soft knitting wire from reinforcing bars Ø 8-12 mm in right size. If the foundation depth is 40 cm or more, the reinforcement is knitted vertically, attached to the formwork with self-tapping screws, and connected to each other.

When pouring the foundation, a cement-sand mortar is prepared in a ratio of 1:2 and filled with water until it becomes creamy. Then the same amount of crushed stone or gravel is added as sand was added. The crushed stone is poured with the solution so that it is completely wet. When pouring homemade concrete into the formwork, the solution itself must be compacted with a vibrator or manually - pierce the mixture with a metal rod or shovel so that all the air comes out. The surface of the foundation is leveled as a rule, the top layer of the foundation is covered with dry cement (iron), and the concrete is covered in any way until complete hardening (28 days).

If the house is being built with ground floor, it is necessary to provide technological openings through which wiring and utilities will pass into the basement and house.

Laying gas silicate blocks begins from the corners - any house built according to this principle will last longer, and the walls will not crack. After the corners are laid out, pegs are attached to them, and a cord is pulled along which the first line of brick is drawn out. It is advisable to check each block with a level for horizontal and vertical. Gas bricks must be laid with 1/3 dressing.

Instead of cement-sand mortar, it is recommended to use special construction adhesive. After 4-5 rows, the blocks must be reinforced: for this, a groove measuring 40 x 40 mm is made around the perimeter of the house, and a reinforcing rod Ø 12-20 mm is placed in it. You need to know how to lay the armored belt correctly: it is laid along the first, fourth, eighth rows, and so on until the top of the house. Gas silicate is placed on the glue using a carriage or a toothed trowel. The adhesive solution is applied to both ends of the gas block, to the lower part, and the adhesive is applied to the upper surface when laying the top row.

It is recommended that you can prepare adhesive for construction yourself, as it is often sold in the form of a dry mixture. Gas silicate bricks can be cut to the desired size with a grinder, and the interior and exterior decoration will hide uneven seams. Window and door openings must have upper reinforcement made of metal corners or channels. While the glue dries, these structural elements of the house need to be supported with any spacers.

Information on how to insulate a house made of gas silicate blocks requires special consideration. One thing can be said - to insulate such a house, mineral wool, expanded polystyrene, liquid insulation and other modern Construction Materials. Before insulation is installed on the walls, wiring is installed by gating the walls and laying the cable in the groove. Wiring can also be laid between the wall and the insulation. Facade cladding is done after the walls are erected, into which a metal or fiberglass mesh is immediately laid to connect the plaster to the walls. Siding for facade finishing is more popular than other finishing and decorative materials.

How to build a house from gas silicate blocks yourself updated: December 20, 2016 by: Artyom

Half of private houses are built from popular and traditional stone materials. Warm, reliable and inexpensive houses, built from aerated concrete blocks, occupy only 15% in this series. In this article we will look at how to build a house from aerated concrete blocks with your own hands.

Advantages and disadvantages

A house made of aerated concrete will cost much less than a brick building. But this is not the main advantage of the blocks; they perfectly meet modern needs for heat conservation.

Due to the constant rise in energy prices, developers have begun to increasingly use energy-saving technologies and pay special attention to the financial costs of heating the premises.

A house built from aerated blocks is warm and, due to its characteristics, does not require additional insulation.

Distinctive Advantages

1. Maintained geometric dimensions guarantee the construction smooth walls and saving money on finishing. When laying, you can use special glue; the distance between the blocks will correspond to the minimum permissible values, and this prevents the appearance of cold bridges and significantly reduces the construction time of the building.
2. Aerated blocks have thermophysical characteristics that are superior not only to brick, but also to concrete and wooden beams.
3. A healthy microclimate in a house made of gas blocks is ensured by its excellent thermal insulation and high air and vapor permeability.
4. Aerated concrete blocks have a low dead weight and therefore the load of the house on the foundation is small - this will save you from constructing complex, expensive foundations.
5. Aerated concrete blocks are fire-resistant and environmentally friendly. In addition, the blocks are easy to process simple tools, this will allow you to easily make any extraordinary architectural details.

Note! Aerated blocks have a high absorption capacity.

The disadvantages include restrictions when laying walls - 75% humidity limit. Basement walls, basements It is not recommended to build from aerated blocks.

Aerated concrete blocks are an ideal solution for construction country house. During construction block house you must comply with all required standards. First of all, conduct a soil survey and determine the level of groundwater. If you want to save on individual architectural project, then purchase ready-made drawings and link them to the area of ​​your land.

Stages of work

1. You prepare the construction site: provide temporary power supply, determine storage locations, and do excavation work.
2. You perform zero-cycle work: lay the foundation, build the underground part, lay and install the pipeline, cable networks.
3. The main cycle includes work on the construction of walls, columns from aerated blocks, monolithic structures, floors between floors. Install stairs, pipes, window and door openings.
4. You finish the house outside and inside, install the roof.

At the same time, you carry out electrical installation work, install a heating and sewage system in the house. Finish the ceiling, lay the floors, do final painting, install doors and windows.

Tools and materials

Note! When building a gas-block house, you need to take special care of waterproofing. To do this, apply mastic to the finished foundation, lay 2 layers of roofing felt on top of it. This will protect the aerated concrete walls from getting wet.

To carry out high-quality construction of a house made of aerated concrete, you will need the following tools;

1. Hammer, chisel, wall chaser.
2. Hand saw, electric band saw or circular saw.
3. Hand plane.
4. Various drills.
5. Drill.
6. Construction level, corner, mallet, template.

Laying aerated concrete walls

The walls of a house made of aerated blocks are 1-2-3-layer according to the type of masonry. Internal load-bearing walls are made with ligated vertical seams, external ones - with offset vertical seams. If you decide to do external finishing ceramic or sand-lime brick, then remember: it should be secured using reinforcing mesh and metal brackets. They must be coated with an anti-corrosion layer.

Insulate the openings of windows and doors well; for this you can use mineral wool or polystyrene foam.

At correct execution building standards and recommendations, you will build a beautiful, warm and reliable home made of aerated blocks, which will serve you for a long time without additional financial costs for its operation.

The gas block has standard size 200 x 300 x 600 mm. See how to calculate gas blocks for a house. For example, let's take a house 10x10 and 3m high.

1. We assume that the thickness of the house is 300 mm.
2. The perimeter of the external walls is 4 x 10 = 40 m.
3. S walls is equal to the product of the length of the wall and its height; 40 x 3 120 m².
4. From the resulting area, subtract the area of ​​the window and doorways, let it be 10 m². 120 m² - 10 m² = 110 m².
5. The area of ​​one block is 0.12 m². For 1 m² it turns out 8.33 pieces. 1: 0.12 = 8.33 pcs.
6. For your entire house you will need 110 m²: 0.12 = 916, 3 pcs. 917 pieces will be used for your aerated concrete house.
7. If you purchase gas blocks in cubes. Calculate the volume of one block: 0.2 x 0.3 x 0.6 = 0.036 m³. 917 x 0.036 = 33 m³.

Note! You need to take into account that any material must be purchased with a small margin. Perhaps the roof structure will require the addition of gas blocks to the gables.

The number of blocks for internal walls and various partitions is also calculated.

Modern materials make it possible to build a small building in a short time. Therefore, foam concrete and gas silicate are very popular among private developers. They make durable buildings, the low weight of which allows for significant savings on the foundation: such buildings do not require a solid foundation.

Construction is economically beneficial for the reason that the building stones themselves are much cheaper than bricks.

Private houses made of aerated concrete have gained great popularity due to the quick construction time and light weight, which makes it possible to do without a solid foundation, which means the cost of construction is reduced.

Description of material

Gas silicate is a type of foam concrete. The production technology involves placing quartz sand, cement, water, lime and aluminum powder into the autoclave. The latter is a gas-forming component and determines unique properties gas silicate. The volume of the crude mixture in the autoclave under the influence high temperatures increases several times. After laying out and hardening, the finished mass is formed into building blocks, from which you can quickly build houses.

Advantages of gas silicate

To protect the walls from getting wet, 2 layers of roofing material must be laid on the foundation where they rest on the plinth. Walls begin to be laid from the corners.

• construction made from it has low thermal conductivity;
• It is lightweight, making it easy to install with your own hands and can significantly speed up the pace of construction;
• fireproof, as it does not burn, but melts slowly;
• environmentally friendly;
• excellent vapor permeability. do not retain vapors indoors and do not accumulate moisture;
• ease of processing of the block: it is easy to cut, you can easily hammer a nail into it and screw in a self-tapping screw;
• building stones have good sound insulation properties: thanks to the porous structure of aerated concrete, they are 10 times higher than those of brick.

Disadvantages of blocks

• high hygroscopicity of gas silicate blocks. These stones are capable of actively absorbing moisture from the air, so the construction of buildings from aerated concrete blocks is not recommended in regions with a maritime climate. High-quality waterproofing should protect the walls from moisture, but even in this case the possibility of premature destruction of the material is high;
• low frost resistance. According to the manufacturers of the material, adherence to manufacturing technology provides the stone with the ability to withstand up to 25 cycles, thanks to which it is possible to build warm houses. However, due to the relative cheapness of manufacturing equipment, these materials are often produced in garage conditions, which is called “on the knee”. Technological process often violated, the cheapest components are used. All this leads to low quality aerated concrete blocks.

Material characteristics

• The density of the material varies by brand from 500 to 800;
• According to compressive strength they are divided into classes: 2.5; 3.5; 5;
• when choosing blocks according to the frost resistance parameter, you should focus on the following: for external walls it should be at least F25, for internal walls - F 15;
• standard size of aerated concrete blocks: 20/30/60 cm. But these stones can be from 30 to 60 cm long, 9 to 30 cm wide and 19.5 to 30 cm thick. Many manufacturers produce blocks different sizes, from which small buildings can be built.

Binders

Apply glue to the blocks using a carriage whose width corresponds to the width of the masonry, a notched trowel or a ladle with a notched edge.

You can use the usual construction cement-sand mortar. It is good because it allows you to even out imperfections in the shape of stones, if necessary. When working with this masonry mixture, the stones need abundant wetting, since gas silicate actively absorbs water from the cement-sand mixture, and it does not have time to gain the strength it needs. The solution is prepared based on proportions 1:3 or 1:4, where 1 is part of cement, the remaining numbers indicate the number of parts of sand. Water is added in small portions until a creamy consistency is obtained.

Special adhesive mixtures are produced for this purpose. They are good because they allow you to build walls with a masonry joint no more than 3 mm thick. The recommended width is 2 mm. The adhesive contains cement-sand mixtures, mineralizing and plasticizing additives and other binding components. Time-tested and possess good characteristics the following mixtures: “MasterOk”, “Zabudova”, products of the company “Pobedit” (“Egida G 31” and “Pobedit TM 17”), “KrepsKGB”, “EK KEMILAX”.

Adhesive compositions are convenient for laying blocks with your own hands; the seam hardens within 24-28 hours and forms a monolith with the building stone. The consumption of mixtures for laying 1 m3 of aerated concrete blocks is no more than 25-27 kg. Distinctive feature The advantage of the adhesive joint is its ability to reduce heat transfer, due to which the possibility of the appearance of “cold bridges” in the masonry is eliminated and it is possible to build airtight houses. Many formulations are produced with antifreeze additives, which allows work to be carried out at low temperatures.

Construction tools

• To process blocks with your own hands (cutting, leveling) you will need a hacksaw
• Using a band saw or circular saw will ensure a straight line and precise cutting (the circular saw must be equipped with a ruler to control the cut);
• houses need to be built from material of the correct geometric shape, so a plane is used to cut off irregularities;
• in the blocks you will need to make grooves for electrical wires or reinforcing rods (a wall chaser is used for this);
• for marking you need a cord, tape measure, marker;
• it is impossible to build efficiently without using a level;
• the block is adjusted using a rubber mallet;
• a drill will be needed to create holes for sockets, communication pipes, etc.;
• to apply glue, you can use special carriages or a notched trowel;
• for grouting and sanding walls made of aerated concrete block you will need a grater and sanding mesh with your own hands;
• for masonry mortar a trowel or trowel is used;
• for puttying you need to buy a rubber spatula of a suitable size.

Masonry reinforcement

Using a mortar cutter, grooves are cut for laying reinforcement, glue for laying blocks is poured into them, and then the rods are completely pressed in.

Experts say that reinforcement does not have any effect on the load-bearing capacity of the masonry. Its purpose is to take on compression and bending loads and protect the walls from cracks. It is recommended to reinforce the masonry when one of the wall surfaces is planned to be plastered. This will eliminate the possibility of cracks appearing.

If it is decided to make protective cladding on the outside of the building (for example, with siding), and install gypsum board from the inside, then there is no need to reinforce the masonry. It will be enough to build reinforcing belts from reinforcement at the floor levels and in front of the device roof truss. The material used is reinforcement with a cross-section of at least 8 mm or steel strips of galvanized steel 8/1.5 cm. The steel strips are connected to each other with wire with a diameter of 1.5 mm, laid in a “snake”.

To lay it on the surface of the block, grooves are pre-cut. They are filled with glue, into which the rods are pressed so that it completely covers them. This will protect the reinforcement from air and moisture and prevent the development of corrosion.

Installation of openings

• if the masonry is reinforced, then the rods are laid in every 4th row, one row below the formation of window and door openings, lintels, and abutments. The rods must be located on both sides of the openings at least 90 cm;
• openings up to 1.5 m wide can be strengthened with the help of metal corners, for which cuts of the appropriate size are formed in the surface of the aerated concrete block. This will prevent differences in height from occurring. Metal corners Before installation, it is recommended to treat with an anti-corrosion compound or paint. To make the reinforcement easier and better, when preparing the corners between the walls of the opening, it is recommended to install a spacer made of a wooden block of a suitable cross-section;
• if the opening is wider than 1.5 m, then the best way reinforcement - pouring a reinforced concrete lintel. Its height must be at least 20 cm. Before pouring concrete, formwork of the required shape and size is installed, and a reinforcing cage is laid in it. You can use a special U shape commercially available block. This will greatly simplify the process of forming and strengthening the opening.

Waterproofing device

Before laying the initial row of building stones, it is necessary to carry out cut-off waterproofing. It is performed using water-repellent materials: roofing felt, rubemast, roofing felt, glass insulation, bitumen-based mastics, mixtures based on polymers and cement. It should be noted that the construction of the first row is decisive for further masonry, so its surface must be perfectly leveled in the horizontal plane. To do this, the foundation strip is pre-leveled using cement-sand mortar.

Stripes waterproofing material must be laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm. It is recommended to seal the joints using bitumen or mastics based on it. Special attention is given to joints and corners. You can build walls only when high-quality waterproofing is done.

The construction of buildings made of aerated concrete does not provide for external waterproofing and vapor barrier of the walls. This will prevent moisture from escaping from the blocks. Vapor barrier membranes are installed indoors to protect aerated concrete blocks. During the construction of the roof, you should focus on the following sequence (from the inside out): vapor barrier, insulation laid between the rafters, waterproofing material.

Wall masonry technology

You need to build a house from gas silicate stones with your own hands at a height of at least 40 cm from the ground. The foundation tape is leveled using preliminary leveling and application cement mortar. Markings are made along the tape, according to which the first row of building stones will be lined up. To facilitate the work, beacons are placed in the corners, in places where they do not load-bearing walls and partitions, in long spans, to mark doorways.

The lighthouse blocks are leveled with your own hands using a hydraulic level, and a mooring cord is stretched between them, which determines the height of the first row of masonry, which will greatly facilitate its construction. First, a stone is placed in the highest corner of the foundation strip; using it, the location of the remaining beacons is determined by a level.

The initial row of blocks must be erected by laying out a layer of glue or cement masonry mixture. The glue must be diluted to such a consistency that when applied with a notched trowel, the tubercles that form during this process do not spread. The thickness of the adhesive layer for the first row should be at least 2 cm. This will allow you to adjust the blocks vertically and horizontally using a rubber mallet.

When the construction of the initial row of walls of the house is completed, the cord is transferred to the row above in a similar way, starting with the installation of intermediate and corner blocks. Subsequent rows are laid with an offset of 1/2 stone in one direction or another. This will provide the necessary bonding for the masonry, as well as the strength and stability of the walls. The verticality of the masonry of the house is checked using a plumb line.

Adjustment of the installation of each block must be carried out with a rubber mallet, and do not forget to use a level for leveling.

Walls made of this material cannot be waterproofed with vapor-tight materials.

The facade must be ventilated. That is, its construction should begin with the installation of slats on external walls. And only after that protective facing material is hung on them.

During the construction of buildings made of aerated concrete, experts recommend not using insulation for walls: the best option Increasing their thickness is considered to provide thermal insulation.

External walls cannot be plastered with cement screed. This will prohibit moisture inside the gas silicate, and it will collapse prematurely.

The thickness of the adhesive seam should not exceed 3 mm.

If the interior of a house made of aerated concrete building stones is leveled gypsum plasters, then soon cracks will appear on them, repeating the pattern of the masonry. Better to use finishing mixtures Knauf type.

Construction of the house should begin after calculating the required wall thickness.

Boards for sheathing and rafter system should be treated with a fire-retardant composition.

Any metal parts used in masonry must be coated with an anti-corrosion compound.

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