What does the normal functioning of the heating system depend on? There are several objective factors that directly affect efficiency, reliability and maintenance of its performance. Therefore, first of all, you need to know how to properly start the heating system in the house. It is best to consider this procedure using an example autonomous system country cottage.

Preparing the heating system for startup

In the vast majority of cases, heating is inactive in summer period. Therefore, it is necessary to check the safety and reliability of its main components, as well as carry out a number of preparatory work. Before starting a closed heating system, you need to find out the degree of deviation of its actual parameters from the calculated ones.

First carried out visual inspection mains and heating radiators. For the owner, the priority question should not be how to start the heating battery. It is necessary to check its body for possible mechanical damage, and also check the reliability of the connection with the pipeline.

Along with this, the following monitoring and preventive work is carried out:

• Checking the chimney system. How to start a heating boiler if the draft in the chimney is not enough to maintain the combustion process? Therefore, they clean the internal cavity from soot and also check the integrity of the pipe. Brick structures can be "updated" by replacing destroyed bricks. Galvanized pipes may develop rust that must be removed;
• Visual inspection of pipes. Since starting the heating without this will be simply dangerous - you need to find out whether all the pipes have retained their tightness, whether there are any cracks or obvious defects in the system;
• Monitoring the condition of radiators. You need to know that before you start the heating in apartment building– the management company must warn residents. They, in turn, check the condition of the batteries. It is not allowed to disconnect individual radiators from the network. While filling the pipes with coolant, the absence of leaks is checked.

This general rules, without which the first start of heating is not recommended. But how to start heating in a private house correctly? To do this, it is recommended to follow a number of procedures.

A test start-up of heating in an apartment building is carried out 1.2-2 months before the start heating season. It is recommended to stay at home while performing it to check for leaks.

Filling the heating system with coolant

We need to remind you once again that before starting the heating system of the house, a visual inspection of all elements is performed. If necessary, individual units and components are replaced. Only after this can you begin the procedure of filling with coolant.

In the absence of water, a small coating of rust will inevitably form on the inner walls of the radiators and heat exchanger. Therefore, before adding coolant, it is recommended to clean the system.

Flushing the heating system

If there is still coolant left in the pipes, you need to remove it. This can be done through a special pipe located at the lowest point of the system. There should also be a make-up unit there. Only after this can we continue to solve the question of how to properly start the heating system.

For closed circuits heating with forced circulation It is recommended to do hydrodynamic flushing. To do this, you should purchase (or better yet, rent) a special pump with filtration and a chamber for cleaning liquid.

Washing procedure:

• Connecting the pump pipes to the system;
• Launch and visual monitoring of the degree of contamination of water that has flowed through the pipeline through a full cycle;
• If necessary, replace the fluid with a new one;
• Do several rinsing cycles until the water is completely clear.

After this, crimping is performed. Before starting the heating radiator, you need to check the condition of its connection to the pipeline. It is recommended to replace the gaskets and also check the integrity of the couplings.

For start closed system heating, an increased amount of coolant (or air) is pumped into the pipeline. This is necessary to check the reliability of the system’s connecting elements. The pressure value should exceed the nominal value by 1.2 times.

The liquid after flushing cannot be disposed of in the sewer. It contains harmful components that will negatively affect the operation of the autonomous sewage system.

Adding coolant to heating systems

You can use ordinary distilled water or antifreeze as a coolant. Filling is carried out through the sub-post assembly located at the lowest point.

This is important, because if you try to add water through other pipes located above, the likelihood of air jams. In order to start the heating battery correctly, it is recommended to check the presence of Mayevsky taps and their functionality. To do this, you need to open each of them. Then you need to follow the following procedure:

• The air and bleed valves located at the highest point of the system open;
• The tap of the filing unit opens smoothly. The water pressure should be small so that air pockets do not form;
• After coolant flows from the air and drain valves, they should be closed;
• Mayevsky's taps remain open until coolant begins to flow from each instead of air. This is important, since starting the heating boiler in the presence of air locks can damage the entire system.

If pressure testing has not been done before, it can be done while filling with water. Pressure control when starting heating at the water filling stage is carried out using pressure gauges installed on the boiler, safety group and collectors.

If you plan to fill the system with antifreeze, you need to use propylene glycol. Unlike ethylene glycol, it is completely safe for humans.

First start of the heating boiler

The procedure for starting the boiler for the first time before the start of the heating season depends on its model and type. But despite this, a visual check of its condition is performed. This is one of the most important stages, preceding the final start of heating in a private house.

The heat exchanger is one of the most “vulnerable” elements of the boiler. Checking it is mandatory, because during operation of the device it is constantly exposed to high temperatures. Along with the task of starting the heating radiator, preparing the boiler is one of the most important during the process.

Solid fuel boiler

Before the starting of the heating system has not yet taken place, a comprehensive monitoring of the condition of the solid fuel boiler is carried out. Its surface is cleaned of rust, and the functionality of the pressure gauge and thermometer is checked.

Then follow the following steps to properly start the heating system:

• Cleaning the firebox and ash pan from soot. This can be done with a metal brush;
• Checking the condition of the chimney. Its pipe must be securely connected to the boiler pipe.

For pyrolysis and pellet models, the operation of the electronic control unit, fans and nozzles is tested. When the heating system is started correctly, improper functioning of these elements can lead to sudden temperature changes, which directly affects the condition of other components.

In the room where the solid fuel boiler is located, flammable substances must not be stored. For fuel storage you also need to allocate a separate room or annex.

A gas boiler

Before launching gas boiler heating - you should read its instructions. For different models, the order of steps may vary slightly. It's connected with various types designs. This especially applies to condensation models, which during operation need to be monitored correct formation condensate Without it, heating the secondary heat exchanger will be impossible.

How to correctly start heating with a gas boiler? After filling the system with water, you need to do the following:

• There is a valve at the bottom of the boiler that shuts off the flow of water into the circuits. After the end of the heating season it can be closed. Therefore, you need to open it - the pressure gauge readings will change. The pressure value should not exceed 3 atm;
• After heating the coolant, you need to open the make-up tap again. If there are air pockets left in the system, you can remove them using Mayevsky taps. The system pressure may decrease slightly during this stage;
• In fact, you will have to start the heating radiator 2 times. The first - during filling with coolant, and the second - when turning on the boiler;
• The correct functioning of the boiler is controlled by the values ​​​​on the dashboard.

The result of starting heating in a private house should be stable temperature regime the entire system, as well as the absence of pressure surges in the pipes.

Often the service for the first start-up of a gas boiler is provided by specialized service centers from manufacturers. Their prices are much lower than other companies.

Checking heating system elements

You need to remember about other elements of the system. After all, without their correct operation, it is impossible to properly start the heating system. First of all, you should check the normal functioning measuring instruments– thermometer pressure gauges.

The operation of protective components must also be monitored. Proper starting of the heating system may be prevented if the air vent or bleed valve seats are unable to move due to rust or limescale. To do this, you need to manually open each of them.

The pressure of the air chamber is controlled in the expansion tank. It should be 5-7% higher than the nominal value in the system. If the design of the tank provides for the possibility of replacing the membrane, you need to disassemble it and check its condition.

Currently, the service of starting a heating system is very rare. It is impossible to indicate even approximate prices - in most cases the price is determined on an individual basis. Its size directly depends on the current state of the system and its complexity.

In the video you can familiarize yourself with the technology of filling the heating system with coolant.

After the radiator system and boiler room have been installed, spend time heating system startup and commissioning. The task is to make sure that all the radiators heat up.

Procedure before starting the heating system

We do the following.

Open the tap on the expansion tank.

Open the taps that shut off the coolant in the supply and return from the boiler.

Important! The listed taps must always be open; after starting the system, it is best to remove the handwheels from them completely and put them “in a visible place.”

There should be no taps at all on the safety block.

Open the valves on all radiators. And close Mayevsky’s taps.

If the heating system has collectors, then open the taps on the collectors (on the supply and return, and not those for feeding and draining the system).

If there are automatic air vents, check whether they are open: there is a black cap on top of them, which must be unscrewed so that air can escape.

Filling the heating system with coolant

To start the heating system, you need to fill the system with coolant. Let's fill it out. By connecting the hose from the water supply to the appropriate tap (either on the boiler or on the manifold). At the same time, we monitor the pressure gauge reading: we need to reach the operating value (1.5 atm).

When we fill the coolant, air comes out of the system intensively, which is audible to the naked ear :)

Heating system adjustment

After filling the system, you need to go through all the radiators and bleed air through the Mayevsky taps: open the Mayevsky tap, first the air comes out, then the tap “spits” air with water... when only water flows, it means the radiator is filled with water, close the Mayevsky tap. And so on for all radiators.

Most likely, the pressure will drop after manipulating the radiators, so we re-charge the system to operating pressure. If there is a second floor, we bleed air from its radiators in the same way. And - we feed the system to operating pressure.

Bleeding the air from circulation pump. The pump has a screw; you need to loosen it with a wide slotted screwdriver. First, air will come out, like from radiators, and then water will come out in a thin stream. After this, tighten the screw. Check the pressure and add coolant if necessary.

Let's start the pump.

Important! Before going any further, listen to see if the pump is working. It happens that it does not work because its rotor is soured. Turn off the pump and fix it by: 1) unscrewing the screw in the center of the pump motor; 2) inside, at the end of the rotor, there is a slot, insert a screwdriver into it and turn the rotor; 3) screw the screw into place. Let's turn on the pump again, it simply must now work.

For 10-15 minutes. Moreover, after 1...2 minutes of operation, we unscrew the screw on the pump again, if water comes out, everything is in order. When you turn on the pump, you will hear air coming out of the air vents again, this is also normal. And the pressure will drop, and we will feed the system to the 1.5 atm we need.

While the pump is running, we go through all the Mayevsky taps and check the presence/absence of air in the radiators. And again we feed the system to the required pressure.

Now we believe (for now we only believe) that the system is completely filled with coolant (but we are not too delusional, air can leave the system for up to 3 weeks or even up to a month, especially if there is a water-heated floor; air will leave the warm floors itself through air vents on the manifolds).

Starting the heating system

Now everything is ready to start the heating system. We turn on the boiler (the pump must be on!) to warm up to 40 degrees.

Our concern is to go and check which radiators are heating and which are not. It is clear that the system does not warm up instantly; you will have to spend half a hour or an hour. If the radiator does not heat, it means that air is accumulating in it; bleed off in the manner described above.

Finally, we turn on the boiler to warm up to 60-80 degrees. Keep the heating system in this mode for 3-4 hours to make sure that the radiators heat up evenly and the return returns warm.

Why doesn't the boiler start?

Sometimes it happens. And the reasons may be the following.

Some boilers have protection that prevents the boiler from starting at too low a temperature.

The boiler may also not start if it was working before and stopped due to overheating... but, probably, this is not our case, because we are starting heating here for the first time.

In general, make it a rule: if the boiler does not start, turn first to the boiler’s passport, and not to Google.

If the radiator doesn't heat...

If water comes out of the radiator, but the radiator still does not heat, what is the reason? If installed incorrectly, debris can get inside the pipes and accumulate in thin places, for example, in valves. Will have to clean it up. Close both valves on the cold radiator. Loosen the union nuts on the valves. Carefully drain the water from the radiator.

If the pressure in the system is working, then you can sharply open the valve on the supply pipe, and a stream of water should remove the debris. We put the radiator in place, open both valves, again bleed air through the Mayevsky tap... well, I think everything is already quite clear. After such manipulations, two positive results should appear:

1) heat all radiators;

2) you have the habit of working carefully, preventing debris from getting into the pipes.

Also: the difference between supply and return for a normally operating system is 15-20 degrees. Not more. But this also depends on the ambient temperature during the launch period. In the cold season, the system will need to “accelerate,” so to speak. And it makes sense to observe the difference between supply and return when the temperature in the room is established.

That's all, nothing complicated. If the heating system is assembled correctly, then there should be no other problems, and starting the heating system should go without problems.

starting the heating system

How to fill the heating system with water before starting it for the first time? How to do this after a temporary reset repair work, if heating is not planned to start in the coming weeks? Let's look at a few scenarios that a service representative or home owner may encounter.

A time to fill and a time to dump

Let's start by addressing one important question: when and why is the heating system drained, and what consequences will it have when draining it?

The most obvious case is renovation work. Home heating can be reset for repair and replacement shut-off valves, regular and emergency replacement of risers and bottling sections.

In addition, often the heating system is completely reset for the summer. Why? The fact is that cast iron radiators have one unpleasant feature: over time, the intersection gaskets made of paronite (heat-resistant rubber) lose their already slight elasticity.

When the radiator is hot, the heated sections expand slightly and compress the gaskets; but when the temperature drops, the joint of adjacent sections begins to leak. After a dozen or two years of operation, the phenomenon becomes so widespread that it becomes impossible to eliminate all leaks as prescribed by the instructions - by rebuilding the radiators and replacing the gaskets.

Then homeowners predictably follow the path of least resistance - they turn off the heating after the end of the heating season.

Why is this actually bad?

• When restarting, you will have to get rid of air pockets. For this purpose, air valves are installed at the top points of the risers; however, there are often situations when the residents of the upper apartments are absent, and there is no way to vent the air.

Useful: if in a house with bottom filling radiators are installed only on one of the paired risers, it is easy to get rid of the air lock by bypassing the riser to discharge. It is clear that water is discharged from the so-called idle (without radiators) riser.

• Moisture in combination with air in pipes and steel heating devices dramatically accelerates their corrosion. The period of trouble-free operation of the heating system is reduced significantly.

Is it necessary to fill the heating system of a private home with water outside the heating season?

It all depends on two factors:

1. Material of pipes and radiators. Corrosion-resistant steel makes draining the circuit for long periods of time a bad idea. But aluminum radiators in combination with polymer or metal-polymer pipes They are not afraid of a humid atmosphere.
2. Volume of water in the circuit. If there is a lot of it, discard it a large number of water and refilling it again at startup is simply unprofitable: all private houses have long been paying for water according to the meter. However, the volume of coolant is rarely counted in cubic meters.

Filling methods

Launch of an apartment building system

The procedure for the lower filling house will be as follows:

1. When the house valve on the supply is closed, we open the discharge on the supply pipeline. The return discharge is closed.
2. SLOWLY open the valve on the return line. If you do this quickly, there is a possibility of water hammer with the most unpleasant consequences, including the radiators being torn off.
3. We wait until water comes out of the discharge without air.
4. We close the discharge and open the supply valve.
5. We bleed air from the access heating circuits, office premises and so on - in a word, wherever there is access.

Please note: in the case of top filling, the procedure is much simpler. It is enough to slowly open both valves with the vents closed, go up to the attic and bleed the air from the vent on the expansion tank.

Launch of a gravity open heating system

Are you expecting difficulties? They are not expected: just pour a few buckets of water into the open expansion tank. Water should appear at the bottom. Do not try to fill it with a reserve in order to add coolant less often: when heated, the water will increase in volume and flow onto the attic floor.

Of course, if the heating circuit is assembled with your own hands and is being filled for the first time, it is worth going through and inspecting all the threaded and welded joints for leaks.

Starting a closed heating system

What is the difference between a closed system with forced circulation in terms of its filling with coolant?

1. The boiler and circulation pump require excess pressure to operate. Typically its recommended value is 1.5 kgf/cm2.
2. Before starting in normal mode, it is recommended to pressurize the heating system with one and a half times higher pressure. This operation is especially important for systems with water heated floors: it will be buried in the screed, where repair work is... let's say, difficult.

How to create the required pressure in the circuit?

If there is a central water supply in the house, the problem can be solved extremely simply: for pressure testing, the system is filled through a jumper with a water supply while continuously monitoring the pressure using a pressure gauge. After pressure testing and checking for leaks, excess water is discharged through any valve or vent.

How to fill the heating system with water if the water source is a well or a river? Or in the case when the system is filled with ethylene glycol or other non-freezing coolant?

Normally in such cases, a special pump is used to fill the heating system and pressure testing - manual or electric. It is connected to the circuit through a valve; after the necessary excess pressure has been created, the valve closes.

The photo shows a manual pressure test pump.

Is it possible to do without a pump?

Let's remember: 1.5 atmospheres of excess pressure corresponds to 15 meters of water column. The obvious and simplest solution is to connect an ordinary reinforced garden hose to the relief valve, raise its other end fifteen meters and fill it with water through a funnel. This option is easy to implement if the house is located on a slope or there are tall trees nearby.

Finally, an expansion tank can solve the problem. Its main function is to accommodate excess coolant as it expands. Water is practically incompressible, and reinforced plastic or metal pipes not very elastic.

The membrane expansion tank is a container that is divided into two parts by a rubber elastic partition. One of them is intended for coolant, the second holds air. All tanks are equipped with a nipple that allows you to adjust the pressure in it by bleeding off excess air or pumping it up with an ordinary bicycle pump.

The solution will be simple:

• We bleed the air from the tank by unscrewing the nipple. Expansion tanks are supplied with an excess pressure of just 1.5 atmospheres.
• We fill the system with water. The tank is mounted with a thread for connecting upwards, so its own weight will help the coolant overcome the elasticity of the membrane.

Please note: you do not need to completely fill the tank with water. The final amount of air in it should be equal to approximately one tenth of the total volume of coolant, otherwise the expansion tank simply will not perform its main function - to contain excess heated water.

• Use a bicycle pump to pump air through the nipple., monitoring the pressure using a pressure gauge.

The price of a large-volume expansion tank is relatively high, but we do not lose anything: in any case, it is necessary for the normal operation of a closed heating system.

Determination of coolant volume

If in an apartment building the total amount of coolant is rarely of interest to anyone, then in a private house knowing it is not just useful - it is necessary. For what?

• As already mentioned, the volume of the expansion tank is calculated based on the volume of the system. If it turns out to be more than necessary, it does not threaten anything other than the loss of a certain amount of money; but if the volume is less than the demand for it, the coolant will constantly be released through the safety valve, which protects against rupture.
• If you do not live permanently in country house, maintaining a constant temperature in it is impractical, and in the case of a solid fuel boiler, it is simply impossible. However, simply leaving a house with water heating to freeze means dooming yourself to replacing pipes and radiators: they will be torn apart by ice.

The problem is solved by using non-freezing coolants, which cost about 50-70 rubles per liter. Accordingly, before purchasing it is better to know exactly the required volume.

A way to measure the volume of a contour without resorting to complex formulas and without searching technical documentation for used radiators, two.

• If the system is filled through a jumper with a water supply system, when the heating is turned off, turn off all the taps in the house and fill the entire system, bleeding the air. The water meter will show you the volume consumed with acceptable accuracy.

• An alternative method is to simply drain the system through a vent, using any container with a known volume as a meter. Do not forget to open the air vents on all heating devices, otherwise a significant part of the water will hang in the circuit.

Conclusion

The article describes practical experience in filling and crimping heating systems. How do manufacturers recommend doing this? heating equipment- you can find out from the video at the end of the article. Warm winters!

High-quality heating plays a very important role in creating a pleasant atmosphere in apartments in apartment buildings. Now the heating system apartment building The design is somewhat different from the autonomous one; it is precisely this that provides warmth in apartments even in the most severe cold weather. Below we will talk about what types of systems there are, what kind of optimal temperature how the repair is carried out.

What features does the heating system of a residential apartment building have?

The heating system of any modern multi-storey building requires mandatory compliance with the conditions specified in the regulatory documentation - SNiP and GOST. According to these standards, the temperature in the apartment should be maintained with heating within 20–22 o C, and humidity – 30–45%.

It is possible to achieve such indicators with the help of a special design and installation of high-quality equipment. Even during the design of a heating system in an apartment building, that is, the creation of a diagram, professional heating engineers calculate all the necessary characteristics and achieve the same coolant pressure in the pipes on both the first and upper floors.

One of the key features of modern centralized system heating a high-rise building - operating on superheated water. It goes from a combined heat and power plant with a temperature in the range of 130–150 o C to the heating system of an apartment building and a pressure of 6–10 atm. Due to the high pressure, steam formation does not occur in the system. In addition, it allows you to direct water even to the highest point of the house.

The temperature of the water flowing back through the system (return) is approximately 60–70 o C. In winter and summer, this indicator may differ, since the values ​​​​depend only on the environment.

Types of heating systems for apartment buildings

In our country, the central heating system of apartment buildings is widely used. Here the city boiler house (CHP) supplies coolant. However, water circuits can be constructed according to two different schemes: one-pipe and two-pipe. In most cases, consumers are rarely interested in such issues. However, as soon as the time comes to make repairs and install new modern heating radiators, you need to know these details.

• Individual heating in residential buildings

This type of heat supply is not used often, but has become more common in new homes over the past few years. In addition, local heat supply systems are installed in the private sector. If there individual system heating system in an apartment building, the boiler room is located in separate room located in the same building, or in close proximity, since it is important to control the degree of heating of the coolant.

The price of this type of heating in an apartment building is quite high, that is, it is more profitable to run one boiler room that can warm and provide hot water a whole neighborhood.

• Central heating system of an apartment building

The coolant flows from the central boiler room through main pipelines to the heating unit of the apartment building, after which it is distributed to the apartments. Its additional adjustment according to the degree of feed is carried out directly heating point through circular pumps.

The various schemes for organizing central heating developed in our time make it possible to figure out what kind of heating system is in an apartment building and make several classifications into certain categories.

By thermal energy consumption mode:

• seasonal, heating is necessary exclusively during the cold season;
• year-round requiring constant heating.

By type of coolant used:

• Mermen– the most widely used type in MKD. The advantages of operating such heating systems in an apartment building are ease of use, the ability to transfer coolant from afar (without compromising quality indicators, centrally regulating the temperature if necessary), and good sanitary and hygienic qualities.
• Air– such heating systems apartment buildings capable of both heating and ventilation of buildings; because of the high price this system less widely used.
• Steam– are recognized as the most profitable, since small-diameter pipes are used for heating, hydrostatic pressure in the heating system in an apartment building is small, this makes it easier to maintain. True, this type is recommended for objects that require, in addition to heat, the supply of water steam (this includes mainly industrial facilities).

According to the method of connecting the heating system to the heat supply:

• Independent heating system of an apartment building - water or steam circulating through it in the heat exchanger transfers heat to the coolant (water) located in the heating system.
• Dependent heating system of an apartment building - The coolant heated by the heat generator is directly supplied to consumers via networks.

According to the method of connection to the hot water supply system:

• Open heating system of an apartment building - heated water comes from the heating network.
• Closed heating system of an apartment building. Here, water is taken from the public water supply, and thermal energy is transferred to it in the central network heat exchanger.

Installation of a heating system in an apartment building

• Single-pipe heating system for an apartment building

Due to their economy, single-pipe heating systems for apartment buildings have many disadvantages, and the main one is the large heat loss along the route. The water in this circuit is directed from the bottom up, entering the radiators of all apartments and transferring heat to them. The water that has cooled in the device goes into the same pipe. It arrives at the last apartments having already lost significant amounts of heat. For this reason, residents of upper floors often complain about the cold.

In some cases, this scheme is made even simpler, trying to increase the temperature in the radiators - they are cut directly into the pipe. The battery then becomes part of the pipe.

From such intervention in the heating system of an apartment building, the users whose apartments are closest to the beginning of the circuit benefit, while the water reaches the last consumers even more cold. In addition, it is now impossible to regulate the heat level in the apartment, since if you reduce the flow in such a radiator, the water flow in the entire system will decrease.

While the heating season is ongoing, the owner will not be able to replace such a battery without invading intra-house system heating an apartment building and without draining the coolant. For such cases, jumpers are installed that make it possible, by turning off the device, to maintain the flow of coolant.

If there are single-pipe systems, the most reasonable approach would be to install batteries according to size: small ones should be installed at the beginning of the system, and, gradually increasing the size, in the last apartments the largest devices should be connected. Such a move would overcome the difficulties of uniform heating, but, obviously, it is not used in practice. Thus, financial savings on installing a heating circuit are followed by difficulties with heat distribution and complaints about cold apartments.

• Two-pipe heating system for an apartment building

A two-pipe heating system in an apartment building can be open or closed, but it allows you to keep the coolant at the same temperature for radiators of any level. Look at the radiator connection diagram, then it will become clear what this feature is connected with.

The principle of the heating system in an apartment building with a two-pipe circuit is as follows: the lost thermal energy The fluid from the radiator is not directed into the pipe through which it came, but goes into the return channel. It does not matter how the radiator is connected: from a riser or from a sun lounger. The bottom line is that the heating level of the coolant is stably maintained throughout the entire supply pipe.

Another important advantage of a two-pipe circuit is that residents can regulate each battery individually or install taps with a thermostat that automatically maintain the required temperature. In addition, such a circuit allows you to select batteries with side and bottom connections, dead-end and associated movement of the coolant.

Adjusting the heating system in an apartment building

Adjustment of this system in MKD is necessary, since it consists of pipes of different diameters. The speed and pressure of the liquid together with steam, and therefore the level of heat, vary directly depending on the diameter of the pipe opening. To ensure this procedure is carried out correctly, products of different diameters are used.

Pipes of the heating system of an apartment building maximum size(100 mm) are located in basements. The connection of the entire system begins with them. To ensure uniform distribution of thermal energy, pipes with a diameter of no more than 50–76 mm are installed in the entrances.

Unfortunately, such adjustment does not always contribute to the desired heating effect. Residents of the upper floors suffer from this, where the temperature drops sharply. This process can be balanced by launching hydraulic system heating. This step involves connecting the circulation vacuum pumps, which ensures the start of work automatic system pressure adjustment. Installation and commissioning take place in the manifold of a separate building. The heating distribution system for the entrances and floors of an apartment building changes accordingly. When the number of floors exceeds two, the startup of the system is necessarily accompanied by pumping for water circulation.

How to calculate payment for heating in an apartment building

Very often, after paying heating bills, residents complain about the management company. In some apartments people are constantly freezing, in others, on the contrary, they open windows to cool the room. These examples clearly demonstrate how imperfect the heating system of an apartment building can be (its operating principle, diagram), and the payment for heat is unfairly high.

You can deal with these problems by installing apartment heating meters. The maximum benefit will then be received by owners who are also planning to install a thermal energy controller as the final stage of preparing the premises for insulation.

Which meters are suitable for the heating system in an apartment building with different schemes?

• Single-pipe circuits with vertical type wiring - one meter is installed per riser and a separate temperature sensor for all batteries.
• Two-pipe circuits with a vertical type of wiring - it is necessary to install a meter and a temperature sensor on each radiator.
• Single-pipe circuits with horizontal type wiring - one meter per riser is enough.

In houses with the first two wiring schemes, residents usually prefer installing a common house meter. When the wiring is made according to the third type, the choice of one device per apartment is more justified.

Ultrasonic or mechanical thermal energy consumption controllers are used in the form of measuring instruments that make it possible to determine the volume of coolant passed through each radiator.

Structurally and functionally the simplest are considered mechanical type counters. Their operating principle in a heating system in an apartment building is based on the conversion of the translational energy of the coolant into rotation of the measuring elements.

Ultrasonic models measure the time difference during the passage of ultrasonic vibrations in the direction and against the flow of liquid. The majority of such devices are powered by autonomous energy sources - lithium batteries. They last for more than a decade of uninterrupted service.

To install a separate meter in an apartment building, the owner needs:

1. obtain information about technical conditions from the heat supply organization or from the balance holder of the building;
2. create an installation project together with licensed craftsmen in this field;
3. install the heat meter in full accordance with the technical specifications and the initially developed project;
4. sign an agreement with the heat supplier on payment based on meter readings.

The most widely used option for multi-storey building – installation of a common meter to calculate the thermal energy used.

In the case of installing one device on the riser of an apartment building, the formula is used for calculation:

Po.i = Si * Vt * TT,

where Si is the total area of ​​the apartment building; Vt – average volume of thermal energy consumed per month based on the readings of the previous year (Gcal/sq. m); TT – tariffs for thermal energy consumption (RUB/Gcal).

• divide the meter readings for the previous year by 12;
• Divide the resulting number by the total area of ​​the house, taking into account all heated rooms: basements, attics, entrances. You will get the average amount of thermal energy consumed per square meter per month.

True, several natural questions arise from the above.

Where can I get the indicators of energy consumption for the previous year, given that the general meter has just appeared? There is nothing complicated here. During the first year from the date of installation of the meter, owners pay, as before, according to the tariffs. Only after a year will it be possible to use this formula to calculate the monthly payment.

How to calculate the required amount of heat based on the area of ​​the apartment

There is an easy formula for this. On average, 10 square meters of living space require no more than 1 kW of heat. The value is adjusted according to region-specific coefficients:

• for houses in the south of the country the required amount of energy is multiplied by 0.9;
• for the European zone of the country (for example, the Moscow region) take a coefficient of 1.3;
• for the Far North and eastern regions, the need increases by 1.5–2 times.

Let's look at a simple calculation. Let's imagine that it is important for us to find out the amount of thermal energy for an apartment in an apartment building in the Amur region. This region is characterized by a fairly cold climate.

The area of ​​this room is multi-storey building– 60 m2. Let's take into account that heating 10 m 2 of housing requires approximately 1 kW of thermal energy. According to the climate characteristics of the area, a coefficient of 1.7 is selected.

We convert the area of ​​the apartment from units to tens, this gives us the number 6, multiply it by 1.7. As a result, the required value is 10.2 kW, otherwise 10,200 W.

The calculation method described here is very easy. But it entails significant errors associated with the following situations:

• the amount of thermal energy required directly depends on the volume of the apartment. Obviously, to warm a living space with ceilings 3 meters high, more will be needed;
• a large number of windows and doors, which increases the consumption of thermal energy when compared with monolithic walls;
• the location of apartments at the ends or in the middle of the building also greatly affects heat costs if standard radiators are installed in the heating system of an apartment building.

The basic, standardized value of sufficient thermal power per 1 cubic meter of living space is 40 W. Based on this figure, it is easy to find out how much heat is required for the entire apartment or for individual rooms.

If you want to most accurately calculate the required amount of thermal energy, you will have to not only multiply the volume by 40, but also apply approximately 100 W to all windows and 200 W to the doors, after which the same regional coefficients are used as when calculating by area apartments.

What is pressure testing of a heating system in an apartment building?

Pressure testing of a heating system is a hydraulic (or pneumatic) test of its components, which allows you to find out its tightness, ability to operate at the design operating pressure of the coolant, as well as during water hammer. This procedure allows you to detect potential leaks, strength, quality of installation, and ensure stable operation throughout the cold season.

Pressure testing, that is, hydraulic (water), in some cases, pneumatic (compressed air) tests of heating systems are started:

• immediately after the heating system of an apartment building is installed and put into operation;
• in systems that have already been used;
• as a result of repair work, replacement of any part;
• during inspections before all heating seasons;
• at the end of the heating season (in MKD).

In multi-apartment residential buildings, industrial and administrative premises, pressure testing is carried out by certified employees of the services that operate and Maintenance these systems.

The progress of pressure testing of the heating system of an apartment building varies in accordance with the type and number of floors in the building, the complexity of the system (number of circuits, branches, risers), wiring diagram, material, wall thickness of elements (pipes, radiators, fittings), etc. Typically, such tests are carried out hydraulic - carried out by pumping water. However, pneumatic ones are also possible - with excess air pressure. Since the hydraulic type is more common, let's talk about it first.

• Hydraulic pressure testing in an apartment building

Before starting such tests, preliminary work is carried out:

• inspection of the elevator (supply unit), main pipes, risers and other parts of the system;
• inspection of the presence and integrity of thermal insulation on heating mains.

For a system that has been operating for more than 5 years, it is recommended to flush it using a compressor before pressure testing to flush the heating system of an apartment building.

Hydraulic pressure testing goes like this:

• the system is filled with water (if it is just installed, it has been flushed);
• excess pressure is pumped into it using an electric or manual pump;
• using a pressure gauge, check whether the pipes maintain pressure (within 15–30 minutes);
• if the pressure is maintained (the pressure gauge readings do not change) – the system is sealed, without leaks, the elements cope with the pressure of the pressure test;
• if there is a decrease in pressure, all parts (pipes, connections, batteries, additional equipment) are checked to detect water leaks;
• after this location is determined, it is sealed or the entire element is replaced (part of a pipe, connecting fitting, shut-off valve, battery, etc.), and the tests are duplicated.

The water pressure during such checks depends on the operating pressure of the system. It can change due to the material of pipes and batteries. For new systems, the crimping pressure should exceed the working pressure by 2 times, for those already in use - by 20–50%.

All types of pipes and radiators are manufactured to a specific permissible pressure. Taking this into account, the maximum operating pressure and test pressure are established. For cast iron batteries, the operating pressure in the heating system of an apartment building is a maximum of 5 atm. (bar), but remains within 3 atm. (bar). The test is carried out here by pumping up to 6 atm. And systems with convector-type batteries (steel, bimetallic) are subjected to greater pressure, up to 10 atm.

Crimping of the input unit is carried out separately, with a discharge of at least 10 atm. (1 MPa). This requires electric pumps. The tests are considered successful if the indicator drops by no more than 0.1 atm in half an hour.

• Pressure testing of the heating system of an apartment building with air

System air checks are rarely performed. They are possible in small buildings when hydraulic tests are not suitable for some indicators. Let's say we want to find out whether the system is installed well, but water and equipment for injection are not available.

Then an electric air compressor, a mechanical (foot, hand) pump with a pressure gauge is connected to the make-up or drain valve, and excess pressure is created. It can be no more than 1.5 atm. (bar), since if the connection depressurizes or the system ruptures at high pressure, there is a possibility of injury to the inspection specialists. Instead of air valves, plugs are installed.

Pneumatic tests involve greater exposure of the system to high pressure. Since air is compressed, which is not the case with liquid, therefore, long-term stabilization and equalization of pressure in the circuit is necessary. At the first stage, the pressure gauge may show a decrease in readings, even if everything is sealed. After stabilizing the air pressure, it is important to maintain it for another half hour.

• Crimping open systems heating

For pressure testing of a heating system in an apartment building open circuit and the principle of operation, it is necessary to seal the connection point of the open expansion tank. This can be done with a ball valve mounted on a water pipe. When pumping liquid, it plays the role of an air valve, and as soon as the system is filled, that is, before the pressure is pumped, the valve is closed.

The operating pressure of such heating systems in an apartment building usually varies depending on the height of the expansion tank: per 1 m of its deviation from the level of the return boiler input, 0.1 atm of excess pressure is given in this place. IN one-story houses it is placed under the ceiling, in the attic. The water column then corresponds to 2–3 m, and the excess pressure is 0.2–0.3 atm. (bar). If the boiler room is located in the basement or in two-story houses, the difference between the level of the expansion tank and the boiler return reaches 5–8 m (0.5–0.8 bar). Then for hydraulic tests a lower excess fluid pressure is created (0.3–1.6 bar).

Apart from this feature, crimp testing of open systems (one-pipe and two-pipe) does not differ from testing closed ones.

Repair of the heating system of an apartment building

There are three main types of repair of heating systems.

• Emergency. Necessary for restoring the functioning of the heating system after an accident: a break in the riser, separation of the battery connection, defrosting of the heating in the entrance.
• Current. Allows you to identify minor faults, carry out a routine check of the functionality of shut-off valves, revise them and install a new one instead of an already used one. Some of these problems are discovered by residents, others make themselves known during scheduled inspections, and the rest when preparing the system for winter.
• Major renovation associated with a complete or partial change of equipment. Here, all pipes can be dismantled, replaced with metal-plastic ones, and radiator plates can be installed instead of those that have expired.

Now let's talk about the malfunctions that each type of repair of the heating system of an apartment building struggles with.

• Emergency repair of the heating system of an apartment building

Let's look at the most common system "diseases" that emergency locksmith crews encounter and their normal treatments.

There is no heating through the riser. They look at the valves and the heating system of an apartment building: uncoordinated repairs are often to blame. If no faults are found here, the risers are transferred to discharge in both directions, which allows the fault to be localized. The problem can be caused by a piece of slag in a pipe bend or a stuck screw valve. If the problem is resolved, and water flows through the riser without a hitch, be sure to bleed the air on the top floor.

Fistula in the heating pipe. Sometimes there is no risk complete destruction riser, liner, then the emergency crew makes a bandage that eliminates the leak. Then the brigade current repairs brews the place.

The locknut in front of the radiator is leaking. The riser is reset, the thread is rewound. If it is damaged due to corrosion, the connection on the liner is replaced by welding and manual threading.

Heavy leakage between sections of radiators. The reason here is a burst nipple. The risers are reset, the battery is removed and rebuilt.

The flush valve does not close after flushing the radiator. The riser is reset and the faucet gasket is replaced.

The access heating is defrosted. The riser is turned off, the affected sections are removed, and the working radiator is started. The emergency crew restores connections, registers, etc. by welding.

Defrosted driveway heating radiator. You just need to disconnect the last sections.

• Current repair of the heating system of an apartment building

Below we will talk about the repair of heating systems carried out by housing and communal services workers in preparation for the cold season.

Inspection of shut-off valves in the elevator heating unit. Here they look at the operation of all relief valves, control valves, and gate valves (if necessary, they are repaired). Periodic maintenance is carried out: oil seals are filled, rods are lubricated.

Valve repair consists of replacing the gasket. Even a beginner can do this himself without serious skills, but inspection and repair of valves will be more difficult.

If necessary, carried out replacing the spacer wedge between the cheeks, its welding, grinding in mirrors in the body, on the cheeks, restoring the rod, replacing the pressure ring on the oil seal and other work in the heating system of an apartment building.

Inspection of a cast iron valve on a stand. From the appearance of this part it is difficult to understand the need for repair.

Inspection and repair of shut-off valves on risers is an equally important task. Even with a small leak, the entire house has to be reset. In cold weather, this can lead to defrosting of parts of the circuit, which is most important in entrances.

Rewinding locknuts on risers should also be carried out periodically.

Replacement of heating risers, elimination of various small pipe leaks and welds between them. The solution to this problem is chosen depending on the situation: a small fistula in the apartment is welded, and a heavily corroded section of the pipe of the heating system of an apartment building is replaced. In the basement, small fistulas are most often bandaged with a clamp with a gasket, thick rubber and annealed wire.

Maintenance crews also carry out heating system maintenance: starting, stopping heating, eliminating air jams (if the residents of the upper floors themselves cannot) and annual hydropneumatic flushing heating.

• Overhaul of the heating system of an apartment building

There is a certain sequence for signing contracts for major repairs of the heating system.

1. A defective statement is written for the planned overhaul with an approximate list necessary work and consumables.
2. A tender is announced for the supply of equipment and repairs. Any municipal or private enterprise that has “heating system repair” among the services offered (OKDP code 453) can participate in it - it is entered upon registration.
3. An agreement is signed with the winning company, which includes a list of necessary services, the procedure for calculation and control, guarantees and responsibilities of the parties, and a dozen more points.
4. Further work ends with the satisfaction of the parties or legal proceedings.

But in practice, an agreement is often concluded with a service organization and its emergency and routine repair teams, who repair the heating systems of apartment buildings in their free time. This method justifies itself: the contractor strives to do everything perfectly, because troubleshooting after poor-quality repairs will fall on his shoulders.

What kind of work falls under the term " major renovation"? Their list is small:

• complete or partial replacement of risers and heating lines;
• complete or selective replacement of heating devices;
• replacement of everything elevator unit or shut-off valves in it;
• complete or partial replacement of heating spills.

All work is carried out in the warm season, after the heating season.

• How to get rid of overpayments for heating

Why do you need to flush the heating system in an apartment building?

The efficiency of the heating system of an apartment building decreases for two inevitable reasons.

1. Heating radiators and horizontal sections of pipes become silted over time. This becomes a problem in places where the coolant flows slowly: spills, connections to the radiator and directly to the heating radiators.

Where does the sediment come from? It includes sand, rust crumbs, scale from welding, everything that is carried by heating mains. The thermal power plant constantly takes in and heats such large volumes of liquid that it is impossible to purify them to an ideal state.

2. Disease steel pipes without anti-corrosion coating - mineral deposits . Calcium and magnesium salts narrow the lumen, forming a hard coating on the inner walls. This is only a problem with steel pipes. Galvanized steel and pipelines with an internal polymer coating are not susceptible to such deposits.

Silt, sand and other suspended matter reduce the speed of water movement in the heating device. Gradually their volume grows, and water gets into only the first sections. Deposits sometimes cause a section of the circuit to become inoperable when the pipe lumen becomes clogged.

Consequently, flushing of this system, documented by an act, restores the required efficiency. It is important to remember that for MKD, the frequency of flushing this system is specified in SNiP 3.05.01-85 and is equal to 1 year.

How to flush the heating system in an apartment building

• Chemical flushing of the heating system of an apartment building

Chemical flushing works in the following situations.

1. It is necessary to restore the functioning of the heating system MKD systems, which has been in use for several decades. Siltation, which cannot be avoided, and clogging of steel pipes during this time lead to a frightening decrease in efficiency.

But non-galvanized steel pipes are so severely damaged by corrosion over decades that the benefits of the treatment may not be visible. The fact is that chemical substances corrode the rust, and during pressure testing many new leaks are discovered.

2. It is necessary to remove deposits from the gravity system consisting of steel pipes. Most of them accumulate in the heat exchanger of the boiler or furnace; sludge is distributed throughout the bottling, large volumes are observed at its lower part.

When flushing, a chemical is poured into the heating circuit instead of water. It is a solution of alkali (usually sodium hydroxide) or acid (phosphoric, orthophosphoric, etc.). Then the pump, which is part of the equipment for flushing the heating system of an apartment building, starts continuous circulation in the circuit, lasting several hours. Afterwards, this reagent is drained and a new pressure test is carried out.

The cost of the washing reagent starts from five to six thousand rubles per 25 liters. According to the rules of housing maintenance, you cannot pour the used substance into the sewer, although, if there is no other way out, this composition is neutralized with a special means.

• Hydropneumatic flushing of the heating system of an apartment building

This type of flushing of the heating system has long been widely used in the domestic housing and communal services sector and has proven itself well. But it is only effective when used correctly.

The instructions for flushing the heating system are not so complicated: the circuit is discharged into the sewer system, first from the supply to the return, then in the opposite direction. At the same time, a powerful air pump forces air into the water. The pulp, passing along the entire contour, washes away some of the scale and silt.

Flushing the heating system used in housing and communal services works as follows:

• the house valve is closed on the return pipeline;
• a compressor is connected to flush the heating system of an apartment building to the supply metering valve after the house valve;
• the return discharge opens;
• when the pressure in the ballast tank of the compressor has reached 6 kgf/cm 2, the valve connected to it opens;
• groups of risers are alternately overlapped so that ten, no more, are open at the same time. So, flushing heating risers and heating devices connected to them will give a good result.

The time of the procedure can be selected by visually checking the contamination of the water coming out after it. If the liquid becomes transparent, you can proceed to another group of risers.

When all risers are washed, the heating switches to reset in the opposite direction:

• the discharge valve, to which the compressor is connected, is closed;
• the house valve closes on the supply and opens on the return;
• the supply discharge opens, the compressor is connected to the metering valve on the return pipeline, it opens.

Washing of groups of risers takes place again, but with the pulp flow in the opposite direction.

At whose expense is the heating system of an apartment building drained?

A well-functioning heating system is essential for a fulfilling and enjoyable life in any type of home. It happens that residents need to install new batteries, eliminate leaks, or move the riser to the wall.

Such actions with the system, obviously, should not be carried out without draining the water inside - it is impossible to open the pipes when the network is full. Therefore, before repair and maintenance work, it is necessary to drain the water from the riser of the heating system of an apartment building.

The proper operation of communications in the apartment building is included in the area of ​​​​responsibility management company. This means that the drain is agreed upon with her in advance. For this reason, residents have such questions.

1. Does the owner have the right to set the day for this procedure independently?

Doesn't have it. The term is chosen by the management company. But asking for work to be done at a specific time can be achieved by coordinating this with several management specialists.

2. Who pays for draining the riser?

Owner. Funds are charged for approval and for the activities of the craftsmen. Tariffs vary depending on regions and companies. It is impossible to name the price in advance: in some localities it will cost 1,000 rubles, in others – 5,000 rubles. This includes shutting down the system, draining the fluid, and refilling.

If there is a need for repairs during the heating season, the owner will have to spend time convincing the management company to pay a much larger amount. When the temperature outside is -30 o C, the procedure will not be allowed. This rule does not apply to accidents.

3. Is it always necessary to drain the riser?

Minor repairs and installation new battery instead of the old one, they are not associated with draining water in the entire heating system of an apartment building. In almost any apartment it will be possible to shut off a specific radiator without affecting the circuit itself. This is done like this:

• turn the tap on the riser, turn off the flow of water;
• open the outlet valve on the battery/unscrew the plug with an adjustable wrench, drain the water into any container.

It happens that the system is not equipped with either a plug or a drain valve, then disconnect the radiator and drain the liquid.

Attached files

• Document №1.jpg
• Document No. 2.jpg
• Document No. 3.jpg
• Document No. 4.jpg

How does the heating of a residential building work? Rising tariffs encourage the transition to autonomous heating of apartments; but the refusal of central heating in an apartment building, in addition to a mass of bureaucratic obstacles, also means a number of technical problems. To understand how to solve them, you need to imagine a coolant distribution diagram.

Heating system design

Elevator unit

The heating system of residential buildings begins with inlet valves that cut off the house from the route. It is according to their closest to external wall The flange passes through the division of the areas of responsibility of housing and heating workers.

• Hot water taps on the supply and return pipelines. The implementation may be different: each pipeline may have one or two tie-ins; in the second case, a flange with a retaining washer is mounted between the taps, creating a pressure difference to ensure continuous circulation. This is necessary so that the water in the DHW risers is hot around the clock, and the heated towel rails powered by hot heating remain hot.

Useful: in winter, when the supply temperature is below 90C, in this case the DHW is connected between the connections on the supply, and above - on the return. In summer, the circulation mode of the hot water supply system is from supply to return.

• Actually, it provides heating for a multi-storey building. It has more hot water from the supply, due to the greater pressure, it is supplied through the nozzle into the socket and, through suction, draws part of the water from the return pipeline into a repeated circulation cycle through the heating circuit. It is the diameter of the nozzle that regulates the heating in an apartment building - it determines the real difference inside the heating system and the temperature of the mixture, and therefore the heating devices.
• House valves allow you to cut off the heating circuit. They are open in winter and closed in summer.
• After them they are mounted discharges- valve for draining or bypassing the system. In some cases, the heating system of a residential building is connected through a valve to the cold water supply system - solely to ensure that the radiators can be filled with cold water for the summer.

Spills and risers

The word “bottling” among professionals refers to both the direction of water circulation and the thick pipe through which water flows to the risers.

Typical heating of a 5-story building is made with bottom bottling. The supply and return pipes are routed along the outer contour of the house in the basement. Each pair of risers is a jumper between them. The risers are connected to each other upstairs - in an apartment on the top floor or in the attic.

A couple of nuances:

• Jumpers placed in the attic are pure evil. It is almost impossible to ensure ideal thermal insulation of the attic and maintain a constant positive temperature in it. Any stop of heating means that after half an hour there is ice in the jumpers instead of water.
• An air vent is mounted at the top point of the jumper. IN typical houses Soviet-built, it is a simple and extremely fail-safe design - the Mayevsky crane.

Bottom filling is associated with a problematic start of circulation after each discharge: the jumpers become air-filled, and for normal operation of all risers it is necessary to bleed air from each jumper. It can be problematic for locksmiths to get into all apartments, to put it mildly.

Two options for implementing bottom filling. In the first case, one of the paired risers is single; in the second heating devices mounted on both.

The heating system in a nine-story Soviet-built building is often somewhat different: the supply bottling is located in the attic. An expansion tank with an air valve is also mounted there; there is also one of a pair of valves that cuts off each riser.

After stopping and resetting the heating, problems with defrosting are extremely rare:

1. When the bottling is laid at the correct slope and the vent is open, ALL water from the bottling and the top of the risers is discharged in a matter of seconds.
2. Despite thermal insulation, bottling losses are large enough to warm up the attic even with minimal thermal insulation of the room.
3. Finally, bottling is a pipe with a diameter of at least 40-50 millimeters with great thermal inertia, which, even with water without circulation, will not freeze in five minutes.

The top filling has a number of other features:

• The temperature of radiators decreases linearly from floor to floor, which is usually compensated by their large size. It is clear that below, already cooled coolant enters the heating devices; Therefore, heating of the first floor is usually carried out with the maximum number of radiator sections or the total area of ​​​​convectors.

In addition: the temperature in the basement is usually lower than in apartments. Losses through the ceiling on the outer floors are usually much greater.

• Starting the heating is very simple: the system is filled; both house valves open; then the vent on the expansion tank opens for a short time - and ALL risers are involved in circulation.
• Removing a separate riser, on the other hand, is more difficult and involves a lot of movement. You need to first find and turn off the required riser in the attic, then find and shut off the second valve in the basement, and only then unscrew the plug or open the vent.

Heating devices

In Soviet-built houses, two types of heating devices are typical:

1. . Huge mass and heat output of 140-160 watts per section, not very aesthetic appearance and constant leaks of paronite gaskets between sections have recently made them unpopular in city apartments.
2. In the 80-90s central heating often installed in an apartment building steel convectors. The heating device is a turn or several turns of a solid DN20 pipe (3/4 inch) with pressed cross plates to increase heat transfer.

In the same 90s, they were massively replaced with radiators due to the heat transfer very optimistically calculated by the builders: due to lack of funding temperature graph It was rarely aged, and it was very cold in the apartments.

Nowadays, heating of residential buildings with central heating is usually carried out with bimetallic radiators, which consist of a core with channels for the movement of water made of corrosion-resistant steel and an aluminum shell with developed fins. The price of the section is quite high - 500-700 rubles; however, this type of heating device combines extreme mechanical strength with excellent heat dissipation (up to 200 watts per section).

When installing heating devices with your own hands, it is worth considering one thing: important point: if any throttling fittings (throttle, valve, thermostatic head), then in front of them, closer to the riser, there must be a jumper.

What is this instruction related to? With the fact that in the absence of a jumper, your throttle will regulate the flow rate not of your radiator, but of the entire riser. Your neighbors will be happy...

Temperature

There are a number of restrictions and regulations related to temperatures inside a living space.

• SNiP sets the following temperature standards: living rooms - 20C, corner rooms - 22C, kitchen - 18C, bathroom and combined toilet - 25C. It is better to focus on them if you are planning to switch to autonomous heating.
• Not in any engineering communications inside a residential building the temperature should not exceed 95 degrees. For preschool educational institutions, the norm is even lower - 37 degrees. This is why in kindergarten groups you can see batteries of such a terrible size.

However: in the heating main at the same time there may be 140C at the supply.

How to cut heating

How to refuse heating in an apartment building?

Documentation

We will only partially touch on the documentary part. The problem is quite painful; permission to disconnect from the central heating center is given by organizations extremely reluctantly, and often it has to be obtained through the courts. It is quite possible that in your case it would be much more useful not to read a technical article, but to consult a lawyer knowledgeable in the Housing Code.

The main steps are:

1. Let's find out if there is technical feasibility to turn off. It is at this stage that most of the friction will occur: neither housing and communal services nor heat suppliers like to lose payers.
2. Getting ready technical specifications for an autonomous heating system. You need to calculate the approximate gas consumption (if you use it for heating) and show that you are able to provide a temperature regime in the apartment that is safe for the building’s structures.
3. The fire inspection act is signed.
4. If you plan to install a boiler with a closed burner and exhaust of combustion products to the facade of the building, you will need a permit signed by the Sanitary and Epidemiological Supervision Authority.
5. A licensed installation organization is hired to draw up the project. You will need a full package of documents - from instructions for the boiler to a copy of the installers’ license.
6. After installation is completed, a gas service representative is invited to connect the boiler and start it up for the first time.
7. The last stage: you put the boiler on permanent maintenance and notify about the transition to individual heating gas supplier organization.

Technical side

Refusal of heating in an apartment building is due to the fact that you need to dismantle all heating devices without disrupting the operation of the heating system. How it's done?

In houses with bottom filling, it is worth considering two cases separately:

• If you live on the top floor, you obtain the consent of the lower neighbors and move the jumper between the paired risers to their apartment. In this way, you completely isolate yourself from the CO. Of course you will have to pay and welding work, and installation of the air vent, and redecorating neighbors' ceilings.
• On the middle floor, only heating appliances are dismantled, with welding and cutting off the hoses. A jumper of the same diameter as the rest of the pipe cuts into the riser. Then the riser along its entire length is carefully insulated.

Please note: refusal of central heating does not deprive you of the obligation to provide housing and communal services with access to the riser passing through your apartment upon first request.

If you live on the top floor of a house with a bottom bottling and below you non-residential premises- it's simple. In the photo the risers have already been cut off. All that remains is to install the jumper with the air vent.

Conclusion

More information about how they work heating systems residential buildings, you will find in the video attached to the article. Warm winters!