How to turn your suburban area into a real paradise? Just. Need to create a nice place, pleasing to the eye. And where the soul rests, there the mood improves and vitality increases.

One of the brightest touches in landscape design, can become a decorative pond in the country, comfortably located among the greenery.

Despite the fact that most summer cottages are limited in size to the standard six acres, and the owners do not have the opportunity to make a large pond, this is not a reason to deny themselves the pleasure of having an artificial pond on the site. The technical side of the issue will also not become an obstacle if there is a desire and competent instructions, describing step by step how to make a pond with your own hands.

Stage 1 – Idea (types of ponds)

Before you start on a large scale construction works and to build an entire lake with your own hands, you need to think about what purpose the creation of a reservoir on the site serves.

In terms of functionality (goals), four types can be distinguished:

Little pond.

This is a reservoir that is part of the landscape composition. Their purpose is to decorate a corner of the garden and please the eye. Active recreation near such a pond is not expected.

Decorative pond.

Is a deeper body of water. As a rule, they are decorated with bridges, fountains, and lighting is installed. Such a pond is being built not far from country house, terraces or gazebos, benches, sun loungers and umbrellas (or canopies) are installed nearby. And the pond becomes the center of the recreation area for the inhabitants of a private house.

.

A personal artificial lake in which fish swim is a dream not only for fishermen. Children, cats and other family members will enjoy watching colorful fish while relaxing in nature.

.

They are also country ponds that, in addition to their aesthetic function, provide the opportunity to cool off or even swim, depending on the size.

Based on the goal and one’s own capabilities, the location of the pond, its parameters and geometry will be determined.

Stage 2 – Style of a pond at the dacha

A garden pond can be made in two versions with an endless variety of different modifications:

Formal (regular) body of water.

The name successfully reflects the essence of the pond; it is a structure that has a strictly defined shape.

The geometrically correct shape of the pond is more suitable for areas maintained in classic style or in modern, minimalist or hi-tech styles.

Along with rectangular shapes, round, square and broken (symmetrical or asymmetrical) also belong to the formal type of pond.

Landscape pond on the site.

A more popular option among users because it has an irregular coastline, a natural appearance, creates the effect of being close to nature and does not limit the flight of imagination of the creators.

Tip: The outline of the pond is determined by the preferences of the owners, but the more complex the shore line, the harder it is to lay the film.

An important aspect that you need to pay attention to when choosing the style of a reservoir on your site is the terrain. A flat surface makes it possible to arrange a pond of any configuration. Changes and unevenness require increased attention, but they allow you to create a reservoir with a waterfall or a cascade of ponds. A bridge or an artificial slide will look natural on such a terrain.

You can also raise the pond above ground level yourself. The only difference in the technology of performing the work will be the construction of the foundation, which allows to avoid distortion concrete bowl artificial lake.

A high pond minimizes excavation work, is easier to maintain and is suitable for families with small children (the edge is equipped with a fence with railings). Such a pond can be built near a covered terrace, making it not only an element of landscape design, but also a place of relaxation.

Tip: If you are planning to make a pond with a fountain, give preference to a tall pond.

Stage 3 – Place (location) for the pond

Creating a pond on a property for the sake of a pond is illogical. It is much more pleasant if the pond adds zest, a decorative accent to the color of the landscape of the site. This means you need to place it in a good place. The location will allow you to admire artificial lake from anywhere.

How to choose the right place for a pond in your country house?

To do this, you need to take into account a number of factors:

• plot size. Directly affects the size of the pond itself and its configuration;

• relief. It also determines the shape of the pond and provides the opportunity to simplify the creation of fountains, waterfalls, or vice versa, achieving a perfectly smooth water surface;

• soil composition and groundwater level. Have a direct impact on the depth of the pond, the complexity of the work and the need for additional materials;

• illumination It is advisable that the pond be located in a shaded area. Exposure to direct sunlight should not exceed 5-6 hours. Otherwise, some of the water from the pond risks evaporating, and biological activity will negate all the beauty of the reservoir. Recommendation: after choosing a place for a pond, observe the solar regime for several days.

Tip: The deeper the pond, the more illuminated the place it can be located.
A pond intended for fish all the more needs thoughtful placement, because in highly heated water the oxygen level decreases.

• visibility. It is better to place the pond so that it can be seen from the window of the house or from the gazebo. Good visibility is especially important for families with children.

• reflection. The pond will only benefit if only clouds or beautiful buildings are reflected on its surface, and not a toilet or greenhouse.

• degree of landscaping. Trees and bushes growing around the pond are certainly a very organic addition. But these are also fallen leaves and branches, which, falling into the water, will pollute its surface and, ultimately, settle to the bottom in the form of silt. In addition, tree roots can damage the waterproofing of the pond.

Tip: you can provide a sufficient amount of greenery near the pond by decorating it with plants in tubs (barrels).

• power supply For those owners who plan to install a fountain on the pond, lighting, etc. must consider the possibility of electrification in advance this area and yard.

Advice: it is better to supply electricity at the development stage and lay the wires in a protected and durable corrugation underground, and equip the connection points with a hatch for easy access.

• the possibility of expanding the reservoir or creating a recreation area. You need to plan for the future. In both cases, it is important that at least one side of the pond has enough space for possible redevelopment, adding a gazebo, barbecue area, installing sun loungers or a small waterfall.

• compatibility of the pond with other buildings and the general appearance of the site.

Advice: it’s better to start building a pond at your dacha with your own hands at the beginning warm season- in the spring. This way, there will be time for the device and the pond will have time to fit into the design (“take root”).

Stage 4 – Dimensions of the pond on the site

It cannot be said unequivocally that a large pond is a luxury, and a small one is a budget option or an opportunity to save money. A small pond does not always mean cheap, sometimes even the opposite. Each type has its own advantages. Therefore, let's focus on the key points:

• dimensions. Depends on the location of the pond in the country. On the websites there are recommendations regarding how much area the pond should occupy - from 3 to 10% of the total area of ​​the site. In reality, there can be no clear recommendations;

• width and length. Determined by the size of the site and the physical capabilities of the person. After all, the foundation pit for a pond is most often dug by hand;

Tip: the aspect ratio will determine the harmony of the pond.

• depth. Depends on the size of the pool, pond or lake and the purpose of the arrangement.

• zoning. Professionals recommend dividing an artificial pond into three sections:

• coastal zone (100-400 mm). Designed for planting plants and entering the pond;

• shallow (400-1000 mm). For plants growing deeper. Tip: Nymphea or winter-hardy water lily grows well at this depth;

• deep-sea (over 1 m). Necessary in those ponds where it is planned to breed fish. The area of ​​the deep-water zone depends on the type and quantity of fish, but should be at least 20% of the pond area.

Tip: The lowest point of reservoirs should be below the freezing level of the soil. This is especially important for those ponds in which fish live. Thus, she can safely spend the winter in an ice-free pond.

• biodynamic balance. A pond is a place that is inhabited by living creatures, therefore, it is necessary to ensure balance so that the pond can clean itself. Special water treatment such as chlorination or ozonation is not provided for the pond.

Tip: plants should not occupy more than 50% of the pond area.

• complexity of content. It’s a paradox, but the larger the reservoir, the easier it is to maintain.

Ponds - from small to large

Stage 5 – Material for a pond at the dacha

Moving forward in the field of studying country ponds, we gradually got to one of the key questions, how to make a pond with your own hands. Any construction begins with the choice of material.

The market offers many building materials for creating a pond. And craftsmen advise making a pond from scrap materials; this will allow you to build a small pond in your dacha without any special financial costs.

Let's consider all the materials suitable for building a garden pond.

Concrete pond.

An expensive option that allows you to operate a pond long time. Pouring a pond with concrete (constructing a concrete bowl) is a method that is more suitable for constructing a swimming pool.

Plastic bowl (container).

A more suitable option. Made of PVC (polyvinyl chloride) or fiberglass, the form allows you to quickly complete all arrangement work and operate the pond from 5 to 30 years, depending on the quality of the bowl.

The purchased form allows you to make a pond in 3 stages: dig a pit, install a bowl and fill the voids with sand.

The plastic bowl for the pond is characterized by ease of installation, durability and frost resistance.

Their disadvantage is their high cost, difficulty in transportation (if the volume is large) and the need to have basic installation skills. Otherwise, the bowl is very easy to damage. Please note that plastic bowls are destroyed under the influence of ultraviolet radiation.

Tip: the clear shape of the plastic bowl limits the possibility of creating a landscape pond on the site (subjective opinion).

In this subgroup the most the best option- This is a bowl (form) for a pond made of fiberglass, reinforced with a rubber base. The undoubted advantage of fiberglass is reliability and maintainability.

Polymer film.

Provides unlimited possibilities in terms of choosing the shape of the reservoir. The simplest and most affordable material in this category is polyethylene film. It is available and cheap, but will not last long.

More long life for PVC film. At correct installation and with proper care it will last more than 10 years. Tip: instead of PVC film, you can use advertising banners (transparencies). They are trying to get rid of used banners and they can be bought inexpensively. Butyl rubber pond film. The most reliable material (rubber) for waterproofing a reservoir. Experts recommend butyl rubber membrane (EPDM) for those who have a rocky bottom, a lot of roots, or a significant pool depth. The service life of butyl rubber is 50 years. It can withstand repeated freezing.

Folk ways to make a pond from scrap materials

Bath pond

An old bathtub is an ideal container, specifically designed to hold water. It can be painted in a bright color and installed in a beautiful corner of the garden. Or you can dig it deeper into the soil and get a small country pond, even with a fountain.

Pond from a tire (pond from a tire or from a wheel)

Another simple way to make a mini pond in the garden.

How to make a pond from a tire with your own hands is shown in the photo.

Pond from a basin

The method is so simple that its construction is often done by women or even children. The basin holds water easily. Like a bathtub, it can be installed on the ground or deepened. The main thing in arranging a pond from a basin is the decor. And then, the garden mini-pond will decorate the area no worse than a full-fledged reservoir.

Decorative pond from plastic bottles.

Suitable for those who want to combine two in one: create a decorative pond and eliminate the buzzing of mosquitoes.

Material prepared for the website www.site

Please note that the choice of material for the pond has a direct impact on the arrangement, appearance and its service life.

Tip: when choosing material for a pond, make sure that it is environmentally friendly.

Stage 6 – tools and equipment for the pond

To make a simple pond at the dacha, you need to prepare a level, a cord (for marking), pegs, a hose for watering, a shovel and a cart for removing soil.

For a more technologically advanced (capital) reservoir, pond equipment will be required:

• filter for water purification. It is especially important to install a filter in reservoirs where fish are raised.

• pond pump. Allows you to organize water supply under pressure. Used for pumping/pumping water, watering the garden, installing fountains, waterfalls, operating filters (cleaning);

• pond sterilizer. Necessary for eliminating algae (helps make the water clear);

• compressor (aerator) for the pond. Important for fish and plants. Pond aeration allows you to saturate the water with oxygen. Compared to an aquarium compressor, it has more power.

Stage 7 – We build a pond at the dacha with our own hands

As you can see, there are more than enough materials to create a pond on your own. We will focus on how to make a pond at the dacha from PVC film. The choice is due to the fact that the film takes shape better, it is quite affordable, working with it does not require special skills, and the film can be repaired.

Advice: so that the film does not tear in winter time, it is necessary to provide a deep-water part (below the depth of soil freezing), which will serve as a kind of compensator.

7.1 Choosing a pond film

PVC film colors:

• black - will turn the bottom of the lake into a mirror. Clouds, etc. will be reflected well in a dark body of water;

• brown - perfectly imitates bottom soil. Suitable for creating landscape ponds;

• blue or cream - will give the pond a resemblance to a swimming pool, but the fish are clearly visible against a light background.

When choosing a film, pay attention to:

• compound. Polyethylene is fragile, PVC is stronger;

• thickness. A film with a thickness of more than 0.5 mm is suitable for a pond. The maximum thickness available on the domestic market is 1.9 mm;

Tip: The deeper the pond and the more complex its shoreline, the stronger and thicker the film should be. The presence of stones or tree roots is also a reason to choose a stronger film.

• trade mark (brand). According to reviews, as well as from practice, it is recommended to use film from the brands Gardena, Heissner, OASE;

• resistance to mechanical damage;

• UV resistance.

Advice: For pond depths greater than 1.5 m. the best solution will use butyl rubber (EPDM or synthetic rubber, as it is also called). The rubber film is stretchable, resistant to UV and mechanical damage. Withstands from 40 to 80 °C.

• absence of toxic components in the film composition.

Pond film calculation

• film length = length of the reservoir + 2 x depth of the reservoir + reserve (500-600 mm);

• film width = reservoir width + 2 x reservoir depth + reserve (500-600 mm).

How and with what to glue PVC film for a pond

The film for the pond is glued with a special glue (for example, Tangit (Tangit) PVC-U) or with adhesive tape, for example, Quick Seam 3.

Advice: it is better to immediately adjust the geometry of the pond to the size of the film.

7.2 Sketch and diagram of a pond at the dacha

Before you start digging a pit for a pond, you need to draw a sketch on paper and also transfer it to the surface of the ground. It is advisable to indicate the depth and width of shelves for plants or steps. This technique will allow you to avoid problems during the construction of the pond. It is convenient to apply markings with a garden hose (it is flexible, bright, and easy to adjust) or sand.

Tip: after marking the ground, cover the resulting area with a light film and look at it from different corners of the area. You may actually have to make adjustments to the future pond.

7.3 Digging a pit for a pond

The pit structure includes:

• removal of turf (excavation);

• digging a pit. It is convenient to dig from the edge to the center, gradually going deeper into in the right places. For decoration, laying stone or laying turf, you need to dig a ledge 600-700 mm deep;

• removal of soil, as well as construction debris, roots, stones and anything that can damage the film.

Advice: since the excavated soil needs to be put somewhere, you can arrange alpine slide or level the surface of the area where there are depressions.

During excavation work, you must constantly ensure that the banks are on the same line. If you are planning a waterfall, then you need to maintain the required height difference.

Advice. If you need a building level (level) of great length, you can make it yourself. To do this, you need to lay a regular building level 500 mm long on a long board.

7.4 Laying the pond liner

After the pit is dug, its bottom and walls are well compacted (this is necessary to give it shape) and proceed to waterproofing. Waterproofing for a pond is needed to prevent water from escaping into the soil.

Tip: Some users prefer to do without isolation. In practice, this results in water levels that are inconsistent.

There are several ways to form a substrate:

• line the compacted pit with stones, gravel and fill it with sand. But after a few years, such waterproofing will cease to perform its functions;

• lay geotextiles on the bottom and cover with sand. A more reliable method, but also more expensive;

• lay PVC film. It is film, as the most common option, that is discussed in this article.

7.5 Laying pond liner

Proper laying of the film does not exclude the installation of a sand cushion at the bottom of the future pond. According to professionals, such a pillow eliminates the possibility of damage to the film by roots or stones.

Advice. It is better to lay the film on a hot day. As it heats up, it will become more pliable.

Considering the topography of the bottom and banks of the reservoir, everyone will be faced with the fact that the film will be laid in folds. At the same time, users advise making one large fold, rather than many small ones. The formed fold can be pressed down with stones or glued to the main part of the film.

It is important that the laid film lies on the surface of the pit freely, without tension. Otherwise, after filling the pond with water, it may stretch even more and tear.

In order to secure the film, it is enough to dig an auxiliary trench. Having laid the film, you can secure it with rods and fill the trench with crushed stone.

After the film is laid, the pit is filled with stones.

Tip: choose a large stone for the bottom. The flat bottom of the stone will prevent the film from tearing. For walls, it is better to use rounded stones, since flat ones slide.

Upon completion of the work, the pit is filled with water. Moreover, it must be supplied without pressure to the middle of the pit.

Only after the water in the pit has stood for 1-2 days can the film be cut off.

7.6 Strengthening the banks of the pond

A homemade pond in the garden will look well-groomed and reliable only when there are beautiful and durable banks.

Depending on the type of soil, the shore of the pond should have a slope:

• with chernozem or clay, it is allowed to make vertical walls;

• in sandy soil - inclined.

Practical users believe that optimal slope for the shore of a reservoir it is 45°. This angle will prevent the shore from crumbling and prevent ice from bulging during freezing/thawing.

When finishing and decorating the banks of the pond, take into account the plants that will be planted on them. Since they all grow at different depths, care should be taken to ensure that planting shelves are formed at a certain depth.

In the process of digging a pit, every owner will inevitably face the question of how to strengthen the shore of the pond.

The following engineering methods are suitable for strengthening the shore:

For a flat coast:

• geomat;
• geogrid (perforated polymer);
• geogrid.

Craftsmen advise using a more conventional chain-link mesh, the cells of which are filled with earth with clover seeds (or other perennial grasses) or strengthening the shore of the pond with plants and bushes.

For a steep bank:

• gabions;
• piles (sheet piling or regular);
• retaining walls.

Biological methods can strengthen the shore just as well. The photo shows plants that can not only strengthen the shore, but also decorate an artificial pond.

Advice. For greater reliability, it is better to combine engineering and biological methods strengthening the shore of the reservoir.

Stage 8 – Decorating a pond at your dacha with your own hands

The pond at the dacha will become a full-fledged design element garden decor only upon its final finishing.

To make a country pond look natural or decoratively decorate a shaped pond, you can use:

• plants planted directly on the bottom of the pond. To do this, you need to place the prepared plants in special containers on the curtains (steps of the pond). Advice: native plants take root better in the pond;

• plants in tubs. To do this, any plant is planted in a tub (barrel, bucket, pot) and placed on the shore of the pond. The advantage of this method of decorating the coast is that you can use any plants, even exotic ones, and constantly change the appearance of the coastline;

• build a “dream” island in the middle of a pond. Install on the island decorative rock boulder or place the plant in a flower pot;

• launch bright fish;

• lay beautiful stones.

Advice: it is better to alternate the laying of large stones with the laying of smaller ones, thus avoiding uniformity in the design of the bank.

• lay out comfortable and beautiful paths from natural stone, gravel, wood or brick cuts;

Tip: gravel paths require more maintenance because... they are washed away by rain and grass grows through them.

• build a bridge across a body of water;

• complement it with a waterfall;

• install beautiful fencing made of wood or stone;

• organize night illumination of the pond. Moreover, you can install LED lights, or place lights in transparent glass balls on the water surface. They can be lowered to the bottom using weights;

• install sun loungers or a gazebo on the shore of the pond.

Stage 9 – Caring for a pond at the dacha

• protection of the pond from leaves will be provided by a mesh structure on a light frame.

• cloudy water that will remain in the pond for 2-3 weeks settles over time. In addition, the biological activity of small inhabitants will soon make it transparent.

• a net is useful to clear the pond of leaves;

• to increase the water level, you need to periodically add it (with a bucket or hose without pressure);

• you need to monitor the rate of spread of algae, in order to limit their growth, you can plant cattails or nymphs (lilies);

• protect plants planted in the pond from the cold or bring them into the house;

• Periodic cleaning of the reservoir will eliminate bottom debris;

Tip: You can clean your pond quickly and effectively in winter. To do this, it is enough to split the ice and transport it along with the silt outside the pond.

• algaecides are an emergency measure for cleaning a pond. But due to its high toxicity, you should not use it unless absolutely necessary.

Stage 10 – Preparing the pond for winter

A pond based on a special plastic bowl can survive the winter, because the bowl can withstand significant temperature changes. And so that it does not deform from pressure, created by ice, just place a few empty plastic bottles in the container. The bottles must first be tightly closed with lids. To prevent the bowl from collapsing, 1 bottle per 1 bottle is enough. square meter containers.

But what about those who have a film pond - will the film crack from frost? If the depth of the pond exceeds the freezing depth of the soil, there is no need to worry. To protect smaller bodies of water, you can also use empty bottles.

Important! All equipment and plants must be covered for the winter.

Conclusion

In this article we covered everything key points creating a pond with your own hands, starting from the idea and ending with care. We hope that we have dispelled doubts and given confidence in our abilities. Go for it! And by the beginning of the season you will have a wonderful water corner on suburban area.

Reading time ≈ 10 minutes

To improve your plot, you can build a beautiful pond in your dacha with your own hands, using modern landscape ideas with examples of photos and design techniques. An artificial pond will bring harmony to the surrounding space and add originality to the landscape design.

Natural green pond on the territory of your own dacha

Pond at the dacha

Sometimes an artificial pond in a suburban area is more of a necessity than a decoration. If there is a long stream running through the area or waterlogged soil is present, the disadvantages can be turned into advantages. A pond in the country, built with your own hands, will create an atmosphere of calm and relaxation.

What type of reservoir can be created at the dacha:

The first garden ponds appeared in the countries of the Ancient East, and only then this fashion reached Europe and Russia. Fountains and mini-waterfalls with massive stone borders began to be built near the palaces.

The pond can be:

The pond can be made in different styles:

Landscaping of a picturesque pond at the dacha, made with your own hands using landscape design ideas, shown in the video below with photo examples and detailed instructions.

Smart planning

When arranging an artificial pond in the garden, it is necessary to draw up a detailed project plan and comply with certain conditions.

Actions must be planned step by step:

• Selecting a location.
• Determination of sizes and shapes.
• Selection of necessary materials.
• Stylistic decision.
• Plants and flowers.
• Decorative elements.

First, you should walk around the territory of your dacha, carefully examining every corner and sketching out the shape of the future reservoir on paper.

Place for a pond

This important stage planning, which should take into account several criteria:

• Soil features.
• Landscape relief.
• Climatic conditions.
• Illumination.
• Green vegetation.
• The presence of a natural reservoir on the territory.

In such a pond it is unlikely that it will be possible to keep large fish or swim in hot weather, but there should be enough space for the location of the structure itself and the drainage of water. The home eco-system should resemble a mirror pond, not a swamp.

How to choose a place:

Reservoir zoning:

1. Coastal part. Occupies approximately 12-30 cm, used for shallow water vegetation and arrangement of the entrance area.
2. Shallow part. Zone for plants and flowers – from 30 to 90 cm.
3. Deep water part. The size can be from 1 meter and must be below the freezing level of the soil. Fish for decoration or breeding may live here.

A great idea would be to complement the beautiful lighting with musical accompaniment. This design looks impressive and impressive.

Material

Construction materials must be strong, reliable and durable. Concrete is most often used, but today lighter materials and structures have appeared, for example, polyethylene or butyl rubber.

The most popular options:

To protect the film when laying out the bottom, you should lay a small layer of geotextile under its surface. This way, crushed stone and sharp stones will not be able to damage the film structure.

Step-by-step instructions for arranging a “flexible” pond

A film-based pond is easier to build than one made from concrete and more reliable than one made from a plastic form. The recommended length of the film should be equal to the length and double depth of the reservoir itself + an additional 40-50 centimeters just in case. The desired film width is the width, double the depth of the pond and 40-50 centimeters for the rest.

Main stages of arrangement:

1. Soil preparation and marking.
2. Excavation work to create a pit.
3. Installation of bowl or film flooring.
4. Filling voids with river sand.

What may be required for work:

• Construction shovel.
• Irrigation hose.
• Pump for determining water filling pressure.
• Compressor (for a fish pond to saturate the water with oxygen).
• Cleaning filter (for fish farming).
• Cord, rope, pegs or light sand for marking the territory.
• Sterilizer for water purification.
• Construction wheelbarrow for earth.
• Butyl rubber film.
• Adhesive for film (Tangit, adhesive tape, etc.).

Making a reservoir:

1. Creating a sketch. Drawing the shape, all details, decor and location on paper auxiliary equipment taking into account the size and depth of the bottom.
   
2. Transfer the mini-circuit to the soil using a garden hose or river sand. The contours should be marked with sand that differs in color from the ground. According to the drawn outlines, a groove should be dug to a depth of 25 centimeters.
   
3. Removing the fertile layer and digging a hole. To do this, you will need a shovel (a construction excavator for a pool or large pond with a fountain) and a cart for removing soil from the territory. The hole is dug according to the depth of the coastal, shallow and deep water zones calculated in advance. The deepest part should be in the center and be dug last. Each time you should fix the depth line using markings.
   
4. Measuring the size of the pit. The walls of the pit are well compacted, and an additional 40-50 centimeters need to be added to the edges to determine the future size of the covering material. The parameters are measured with a cord or rope and then transferred to film.
   
5. Waterproofing film. The bottom of the pit is covered with a small layer of sand and geotextile to ensure reliable protection film surface. When the substrate is ready, the film is carefully laid, tightly fixed to the base with glue and pressed well to all surfaces.
   
6. Filling with water. Water is poured in carefully and gradually using a hose, avoiding sudden pressure.
7. Consolidation. The edges of the waterproofing are fixed in a pre-dug trench along the contour with a depth of 25 cm and covered with earth and crushed stone, after which they are well compacted.
   The edge of the reservoir is secured with rods, stones or large boulders. This stage is suitable for placing and planting plants and flowers. Be sure to leave a small fold at the bottom so that the film does not tear when filled with water.
8. Standing water. The finished reservoir should be left for 1-2 days so that the water settles well, after which the excess ends of the film are cut off. During this period, you can form beautiful sides, arrange the remaining decor and complete the landscaping work.
   

To strengthen a gently sloping bank, you can use a geogrid or geomat in combination with clay and black soil to make the pond look neat and well-groomed.

The size and shape of an artificial reservoir depends not only on the dimensions of the site, but also on the imagination of the owners themselves. The aesthetic and decorative components undoubtedly play an important role here. If you follow all the recommendations and strictly follow the instructions, you can create the pond of your dreams in your country house. How to make a pond in the garden with your own hands, using landscape ideas with photos and diagrams, is shown step by step in the video below.

Many owners of suburban areas are entertained by the idea of ​​installing a pond at their dacha. If you belong to this category, but the high cost of this event stops you, then we provide you step by step guide. Following it, you will make not just a decorative pond, but also place fish in it, create a beautiful design, as in the photo - and all this with your own hands.

How to Choose the Right Pond Location and Configuration

Since an artificial pond on the site is an interesting highlight, you should not modestly place it somewhere to the side. The pond should be noticed immediately upon entering the site. It is meant to be admired and admired. Even at the planning stage, you need to rely on the following 9 factors:

Attention! Strong lighting promotes intense heating of the water, which leads to a decrease in oxygen levels. This has a detrimental effect on the fish living in the pond.

Step-by-step arrangement of a pond with your own hands

Setting up a pond on a property seems complicated to many, but you just have to want it and this creative process will captivate you so that all difficulties fade into the background. There are 2 basic options for creating a pond: based on a ready-made container and using a polymer film. By purchasing a mold made of PVC or fiberglass, the construction time for a pond can be significantly reduced. The procedure itself is extremely simple:

• digging a pit;
• set the form;

An irregularly shaped pond looks better

• fill voids with sand;
• plants are planted;
• fill the bowl with water.

Attention! A fiberglass bowl with rubber reinforcement is more reliable.

The version of a pond based on a polymer film gives more freedom in choosing the shape of the reservoir. In this case, both simple polyethylene film and PVC, which have a longer service life, are used. But the most reliable is the butyl rubber membrane. Let's look at how to equip a pond using film:

Place waterproofing materials at the bottom of the pond

Some summer residents, before pouring sand, coat the foundation pit with a layer of clay and let it dry. This allows you to ideally smooth out irregularities, which is guaranteed to preserve the integrity of the film.

Tip: to make the film more elastic, keep it in the sun before installation.

Choosing a Pond Filter

If you decide to add fish to your pond, you will have to purchase a filter to provide them with comfortable conditions. The filter will clean the water from food residues, waste products of the inhabitants of the reservoir, nitrogen, and will not allow harmful bacteria and algae to multiply excessively. There are many models of this device, but when choosing, you should proceed from the volume of the pond.

The most popular are economical and easy-to-use pressure filters. They are not visible in the water, since they can be installed both at depth and in the ground on the shore. And they are used for reservoirs with a volume of less than 60 cubic meters. m. Most pressure filters are equipped with a 3-stage filtration system: mechanical, biological, ultraviolet. Having such a filter, you can arrange a fountain, because... it lifts filtered water to a height of 2 meters.

Buy a water purification filter

For a larger reservoir, a flow filter with less complex design than pressure. The water supplied by the pump is purified in the filtration compartment and then flows back into the pond via a waterfall. It often purifies hundreds of liters of water, so it’s hard not to notice it on the shore. You will have to pay a decent amount for such a device, but, oddly enough, making it yourself is not at all difficult.

For this you need submersible pump and some kind of container. Holes are drilled in the bottom and walls of the vessel, filled with filtering components - foam rubber rolled into rolls, expanded clay wrapped in agrofibre, washcloths, foam mats. The stream of water supplied by the pump to the container, having been cleaned, flows into the pond by gravity.

Selecting plants for the pond

In the coastal zone, low plants are planted - shade-loving or vice versa, it all depends on the location of the home lake. Hostas create a picturesque picture on the shore of the lake, while blue ones prefer shade, and green ones prefer partial shade.

Sedge grows well in the shade with narrow leaves, sometimes growing up to 0.8 m. In partial shade, the unpretentious loosestrife with beautiful purple inflorescences feels great. Molinia is planted in a sunny place.

A fern of any kind will decorate well the shore of a pond located in partial shade. It grows well in moist soil. Astilbe also loves the same conditions. Low-growing species are suitable for planting near a pond.

To make the pond look natural, plant plants along its banks.

If the pond is large enough, plant peltiphyllum (darmera) on the shore - a perennial, in the form of bushes with a diameter of up to 0.5 m and a height of up to 1 m, a plant with notched, round-shaped leaves.

On the second level, water lilies are traditionally planted in the pond. Hybrid nymphs are distinguished by a variety of flower colors, but you should not overload the pond with many specimens, they grow and only interfere with each other.

Sunny shallow water - a good place for calamus. In a large reservoir, a marshy one looks organic, and in a small reservoir, a low calamus grass. Some types of irises also prefer to be in low water.

The unpretentious whitewing is a popular pond plant. In May-June, a flower in the form of a cob appears on it, and then red berries, but do not forget that they are poisonous.

The aquatic hawthorn, which smells like vanilla, grows very much in water, reaching a diameter of 0.5 m. It belongs to deep-sea plants. It looks original, covering the pond with a green carpet, miniature, floating on the surface of the azolla. But you will have to fight it, periodically catching bushes that look like ferns.

Feel free to make your dream come true! Don't let them scare you possible difficulties, in most cases, fears are exaggerated.

Do-it-yourself pond at the dacha: video

Pond in landscape design: photo

One of the brightest tools in landscape design is a decorative pond. Of course, most suburban areas are limited to the traditional six hundred square meters, and the owners simply cannot build a large pond, but because of this you should not give up the dream of acquiring an artificial pond. As for the technical part, it will not be an obstacle, but only if you have good instructions and desire. So, today we will find out how to make a pond at the dacha with our own hands step by step.

First you should find out what purpose the construction of a pond on the site will serve. From this point of view, reservoirs can be divided into four large groups.

Table No. 1. Classification of artificial reservoirs by functionality

Group name	Short description
	They are an element of the landscape composition and are intended, first of all, to decorate a particular area of ​​the garden. Near such bodies of water leisure not provided.
	They are deeper and are often decorated with fountains, bridges, and sometimes equipped with lighting. Such ponds are built near a house or gazebo, and benches with canopies are placed nearby. Therefore, it is quite obvious that such reservoirs are the heart of the recreation area for the residents of the house.
	This option is suitable not only for avid fishermen, but also for families with children - the latter will enjoy watching colorful fish while relaxing in nature.
	They also belong to artificial country ponds and not only perform an aesthetic function, but also provide an opportunity to freshen up or even swim (it all depends on the size).

Then, based on the goal and our capabilities, we proceed to choosing the style, location, dimensions and shape.

Second phase. Deciding on a style

An artificial pond can be made in one of two ways possible options, and each of them also has a great many modifications.

Table No. 2. Artificial pond styles

Name	Short description
	This name exactly reflects the essence - these are structures that are distinguished by clearly defined outlines. The correct shape of the pond in terms of geometry is suitable for those areas that are decorated in the style of minimalism, high-tech, modern or classic. But, characteristically, the shape can be not only rectangular, but also square, round, oval, and broken.
	They are more popular because they are characterized by naturalness and irregular contours of the banks, which means they bring people closer to nature. The shape of the reservoir here depends only on personal preferences, but the more complex it is, the more difficult it will be to lay the film (more on this later).

The topography of the site also plays a big role when choosing a style. So, if the surface is fairly flat, then the shape of the pond can be any. If there are unevenness and differences on the site, then they need to be given Special attention, but they make it possible to additionally arrange a cascade or waterfall. In addition, against the backdrop of all this, say, an artificial slide will look great.

Also, the reservoir can be raised slightly above the ground. In this case, the construction technology will differ only in the arrangement of the foundation, which will prevent possible distortions of the bowl.

When creating such a reservoir, excavation work is minimized, and caring for it will be much easier.

Note! If the reservoir is built with a fountain, then preference should be given to a tall structure.

Third stage. Choosing a place

Let's start with the fact that we place the reservoir in the most favorable place, so that you can admire your creation from anywhere on the site. That is why we take into account several important factors when choosing.

1. Land area. Not only the size of the pond, but also its shape directly depends on it.
2. Illumination. It is preferable to place an artificial pond in a shaded place where exposure to direct sunlight does not exceed five to six hours a day, otherwise some of the water may simply evaporate. Moreover, in sunlight, biological activity may develop, which is unlikely to beautify the pond. Therefore, having chosen a specific place on the site, we observe the solar regime for several days.
3. Relief. The shape of the pond depends on it, and it also simplifies the design additional elements(for example, fountains).
4. Groundwater level, soil composition. These indicators affect not only the depth of the reservoir, but also the complexity of the work and the need for additional consumables.

Note! The greater the depth of the pond, the more illuminated place it should be located. If the reservoir is intended for fish, then we take the location even more seriously, since the oxygen content in highly heated water decreases.

1. Expandable. Don't forget about perspective, so we leave some free space on one side.
2. Visibility. It is advisable to position the pond so that it can be seen from home and recreation areas.
3. Electricity supply. If a fountain or lighting is additionally equipped, we will think about electrification in advance. It is better to lay the wires during development, underground and in a reliable protective corrugation. There should be small access hatches at the connections.
4. Reflection. The pond will look more attractive if the surface reflects the sky or beautiful buildings, rather than some kind of utility structure.
5. Landscaping. Vegetation near the pond is, of course, beautiful, but the leaves will pollute it and form silt. Moreover, tree root systems can damage the waterproofing layer.
6. Compatible with general design and other objects.

We begin work in the spring - this way we will have enough time for the reservoir to “take root” on the site.

Fourth stage. Deciding on the sizes

It’s hard to say that a large pond will cost more than a small one, since there are a lot of nuances here. Therefore, let's look at the key points.

1. Dimensions. They depend on the location of the reservoir. Many say that the pond should make up an average of 3-10% of the total area of ​​the site, although there are no clear recommendations in in this case it can not be. As for the specific length and width, they depend not only on the area land plot, but also from our capabilities. After all, we will dig a hole under the pond manually.

2. Depth. It depends on the purpose of creating the reservoir, as well as its size.

3. Difficulty of content. The larger the pond, the easier (no matter how paradoxical it may sound) to care for it.

4. Zoning. The reservoir is divided into the following zones:

• coastal (from 10 cm to 40 cm), which will serve as an entrance and for planting;
• shallow water (from 40 cm to 100 cm), where crops that grow deeper (for example, winter-hardy water lily) will be planted;
• deep-sea (more than 100 cm) - it is required only in those reservoirs where fish breeding is planned; the area of ​​this zone depends, first of all, on the number of fish, but on average it should be more than 20% of the total area of ​​the reservoir.

5. Biological balance. In any case, living creatures will inhabit the pond, which means that conditions must be provided so that it can clean itself. No oxygenation or chlorination of water is provided here. It is worth remembering: no more than ½ of the entire area can be allocated for plants.

Note! The lowest point should be lowered below the soil freezing line, especially if you plan to breed fish - this way they can survive the winter in non-freezing water.

Fifth stage. Selecting materials

The next question to deal with is choice. Supplies. On modern market There are many options that can be used when creating an artificial pond. Let's look at them.

concrete pond

Most expensive option, which, nevertheless, allows the reservoir to be used for quite a long time. Although concrete pouring is more suitable for arranging a swimming pool.

Finished plastic container

This option is more suitable. The mold, made of fiberglass or PVC, allows you to build a pond in record time and use it for up to 30 years (the specific period depends on the quality of the container).

The procedure itself will consist of only four steps:

• digging a pit;
• set the form;
• fill the remaining voids with sand;
• We plant plants and fill the pond with water.

The disadvantage of this method is the difficulty of transportation (if the volume is large) and the need for basic knowledge on installation (otherwise the bowl may be damaged). Moreover, plastic containers deteriorate over time under the influence of UV radiation.

Note! It is preferable to use a fiberglass bowl that is reinforced with rubber - this design is more reliable and repairable.

Polymer film

In terms of pond shape, this option provides simply unlimited possibilities. The most affordable material is polyethylene film, although it will not last long.

PVC film has a longer service life; with proper installation, it can last up to ten years.

Perhaps the most reliable option. For ponds with a rocky bottom and great depth, it is recommended to use a butyl rubber membrane (EPDM), which has a service life of up to 50 years. In addition, this material can withstand repeated frosts.

There are a few folk ways making a reservoir using available materials. Let's take a look at the most popular of these methods.

Pond from an old bathtub

Great option, because a bathtub is a container that was originally intended to hold liquid. The bathtub can be painted in bright colors and place it in a picturesque corner of the site or, as an option, deepen it into the ground.

Tire pond

A simple way to create a mini-reservoir on your site. The manufacturing procedure is shown in the photo below.

Pond from a basin

An even simpler way. The basin is able to hold water well, so it can be installed in the same way as a bathtub. With proper decoration, such a mini-pond will become an excellent decoration for the yard.

Note! Not only the aesthetic characteristics of the pond, but also its service life depend on the choice of material. It is desirable that the selected material is environmentally friendly.

Sixth stage. We prepare the equipment

To create a simple artificial pond, we will need a level, a cart with a shovel, a cord, a hose that is used for watering, and pegs.

If the pond is more technologically advanced, then the following equipment will be needed:

• cleaning filter;
• sterilizer (this will remove algae to keep the water clear);
• pump for pumping/draining water;
• aerator for oxygen saturation (especially important when breeding fish).

Seventh stage. We create an artificial pond

There are plenty of materials that can be used to create a pond, but we will focus on polyvinyl chloride film. The fact is that it is cheaper, takes the desired shape better, can be repaired, and does not require specific knowledge or skills to operate.

Step 1. First, choose the color of the film. There are several possible options here.

1. Black film – it will turn the bottom into a mirror (plants, clouds, etc. will be reflected).
2. Cream, blue- this way the pond will look more like a swimming pool, and the fish will be more clearly visible against a light background.
3. Brown– will imitate the soil of natural reservoirs. An excellent option for a landscape pond.

Also, when choosing a film, pay attention to the composition (PVC is more durable than PE) and thickness (for a pond you will need material thicker than 0.5 mm). Moreover, the greater the depth of the reservoir, the greater the film thickness should be. Equally important is resistance to UV radiation and mechanical damage.

Note! If the depth of the pond exceeds 1.5 m, then we use butyl rubber. This film is resistant to stretching, deformation and UV, moreover, it can withstand temperatures of 40-80°C.

• pond width + (depth x 2) + stock (55-60 cm) = material width;
• pond length + (depth x 2) + reserve (55-60 cm) = material length.

For gluing we will use special glue (for example, “Tagnit”) or adhesive tape (Quick Seam 3).

Step 3. The next step is to create a diagram.

First, we draw it on paper, and then transfer it to the ground. We indicate the sizes of steps or “shelves” for plants - this will avoid possible problems. To apply markings, use sand or a flexible garden hose (preferably in a bright color).

After this, we cover the marked area with a piece of light film and examine it from different angles. We make adjustments if necessary.

Step 4. Digging a pit. To do this, perform the following steps.

1. First we remove the turf.
2. Then we dig the pit itself. At the same time, we move from the edges to the center, going deeper in the required places - it’s more convenient. To lay out the stone and decorate it, we arrange a ledge 60-70 cm deep.
3. We remove the soil, and along with it roots, stones, debris and anything that can damage the film. By the way, you can make an alpine slide from excavated soil.

When carrying out excavation work, we pay attention to ensuring that the banks of the future pond are located on the same line. If a waterfall is created, then we maintain the required height difference.

Note! If a large level is required, we can make it ourselves. To do this, place a regular level on a long, flat board.

Step 5. We lay the substrate. We carefully compact the bottom of the finished pit, after which we proceed to the waterproofing layer, which will prevent water from penetrating into the soil.

The substrate can be made in several ways:

• we cover the bottom with stones and fill it with sand (this kind of waterproofing will lose its properties in just a few years);
• we lay a layer of geotextiles, which we fill with sand (this will cost a large amount);
• laying down PVC film(most reliable way, so let's focus on it).

Step 6. Next, we lay the film, preferably on a sandy “cushion” (the latter will prevent damage from stones and other dangerous objects). It is advisable to install on a hot day - as the film heats up, it becomes more pliable.

This may cause difficulty in forming folds. We try to make one large fold, and not a large number of small ones, then glue it or press it down with stones. The film should be loose and loose.

To secure it with a swarm there is an additional trench around the perimeter. We lay the film there, and then fill it with crushed stone. Next, fill the trench with large stones with a flat bottom (so that the film does not tear). We lay the walls with round stones (flat ones will slide). At the end, we fill the pond with water - we supply it without pressure, directing it to the center of the pit. After two days, cut off the excess film.

Step 7. We strengthen the banks. Their slope depends on the type of soil: if it is sandy, then the walls should be sloped, if we are talking about clay or black soil, then vertical. The optimal slope angle should be approximately 45°.

The strengthening itself depends on the type of banks.

If they are flat, then you can use:

• geomat;
• geogrid;
• polymer geogrid.

You can also use a regular chain-link mesh, filling its cells with soil and seeds. perennial grass(for example, clover). There is another option - to strengthen the banks with shrubs or plants.

If the coast is steep, then we can use:

• piles;
• gabions;
• retaining walls.

It can also be effectively strengthened using biological methods (planting). Ideally, biological enhancement methods should be combined with engineering ones.

Eighth stage. We design an artificial pond

There are several ways decorative finishing reservoir To make it a full-fledged design element, we use one or more of the methods below.

As a conclusion. Features of care

Finally, a few words about further care behind an artificial pond.

Video - Creating a pond from film

(19 ratings, average: 4,39 out of 5)

An artificial pond in your country house can be a great place to relax on a hot summer day. To those people who have country houses on the shore of a lake or river, very lucky. Well, the rest will need to roll up their sleeves and arrange a pond in their dacha with their own hands.

We are drawing up a project

It is best to allocate a place for a future artificial pond still at the design stage summer cottage . In this case, the reservoir must:

• Do not be exposed to prolonged exposure to direct sunlight - heated water provokes the growth of algae and the development of microorganisms. The water in the reservoir quickly becomes cloudy and will have a musty, unpleasant odor;
• be on open area– branches and leaves from trees will quickly pollute the water, and root system may damage the bottom of an artificial reservoir;
• be located so that later you can expand the size of the water surface if you want to convert the pond, for example, into a full-fledged complex - with a fountain, bridge, etc.

Professional builders it is advised to make the artificial reservoir shallow - since it will be mainly used as beautiful element surrounding landscape in the garden. In addition, you immediately need to think about how you will care for the pond on your site - there should be a convenient approach to it. Naturally, not through or the garden.

The water in an artificial pond will need to be changed with your own hands, since it will not be purified naturally, unlike natural reservoirs. Therefore, you need to make sure that it is located close to your pond.

Selection of material for construction

Before you make a pond with your own hands, you need determine its basis. In this case, there are several solutions. Let's consider what an artificial pond can be made from.

Reinforced concrete

The most durable pond in the garden can be made using reinforced concrete. The bottom and coastal zone, reinforced with reinforcement and filled with concrete, will be able to withstand various additional loads - the installation of sculptural compositions, a fountain, etc.

The complexity of construction makes this technology for organizing small ponds in the country impractical. The disadvantages of this solution include significant cost. You will have to rent special equipment, use a lot of building materials, and dismantling the installed reservoir will only be possible with great labor costs.

PVC film

A budget solution for the construction of an artificial pond in a country house. The depth and shape of this reservoir can be easily changed, its size reduced or increased. A pond on a site with a film base can even be made seasonal - for example, filled in with the arrival of winter and arranged again in the summer.

The disadvantages of this solution include the fragility and fragility of the PVC coating - the film can be easily damaged, and if the integrity of the bowl is damaged, water will easily drain into the ground. Therefore, swimming in these domestic ponds is not recommended - they made small in size and are used for garden decoration.

Store-bought artificial bowls

This is the golden mean for people who want to have their own pond in their garden and not have to worry about building materials for its organization. Store bowls for decorative ponds are made of durable and strong materials - fiberglass or polyvinyl chloride.

The first option is much more expensive. However, the cost of a fiberglass bowl is fully compensated by the excellent performance characteristics of this material. You can easily install this bowl with your own hands, without involving outside help in this process. The disadvantage can be considered the purchase of ready-made standard forms - that is, the foundation pit must be made to fit the shape of the bowl, and not vice versa.

Moreover, the possibility of constructing uneven terrain bottom to design natural coastlines. In addition, this method of organizing a pond in the garden will cost much more than a pond made from scrap materials or film.

Available materials

Enough interesting option– use of different available containers or materials. Old troughs, cast iron baths quite suitable for construction.

The advantage of this method is that there is no need to build bulky reinforced concrete structures or purchase standard forms. The disadvantages include the low decorativeness of old containers - you will need to use your imagination to turn an old bathtub into a make a work of art.

For example, for people who have catastrophically little space in their dacha, experts advise using a convenient and simple tire pond. Old tires are dug in, film is laid inside, and the banks are decorated.

The resulting pond may surprise even professional designers– the finished pond will be an exclusive element of the landscape interior.

Pit

Then, when you have decided on the material for construction, you need to dig a pit. This work is best done in the summer, when groundwater leave as much as possible. The depth of the pit is determined based on the type of material from which they decided to make the bowl. If this is an old bathtub or another ready-made mold, dig a hole 25-30 cm deeper than the dimensions of the mold.

If you decide to make a pond from PVC film, then you will need to dig to a depth of about 70-90 cm - a small pond will completely freeze in winter, dry quickly and heat up. summer time. For reservoirs made of reinforced concrete, you will need to dig a pit more than 1.5 meters deep - here there is no special equipment not enough.

Let's look at the stages of work for building a pond at the dacha with your own hands for various types selected materials.

PVC film pond

When the pit is ready, all that remains is to clean its bottom and dig a future mini-pond on the sides small terraces . The depth of these terraces is approximately 30 cm and the width is about 25 cm. The bottom of the pit is compacted, pebbles, crushed stones, stones and other foreign objects are removed. The cleaned bottom is sprinkled with sand and covered with geotextile fabric. This bottom preparation will significantly improve the strength of the base coating and also extend the life of the film.

The next step is laying the film covering. The size of the film can be calculated as follows: take the total length of the reservoir and add twice the depth of the pit. The film sheet is fixed on the terraces with a margin of approximately 30 cm. The laid sheet is laid with stones or bricks - this must be done to preserve its laying shape.

Then you need to fill the pond with water, check the integrity of the film and begin decorating the coastal zone. No need right away cut off the remaining film under bricks, as it can shrink over time.

Pond from the bath

To build a pond from an old bathtub or other unnecessary container you will need:

• crushed stone;
• a piece of mesh;
• sand and cement;
• a coil of steel or aluminum wire;
• beautiful stones for decoration.

After the pit has been dug, it is necessary to make its edges. Why do we remove the top along the entire perimeter of the future pond? a layer of earth about 45-50 cm wide. This perimeter is deepened so that it is level with the shape of the reservoir. The drain hole in the bathroom is closed, then it is installed at the bottom of the pit.

To extend the operating time of the future mini-pond, it is necessary to protect the enamel on the inner surface of the bowl. Why the sides and bottom of the bathroom can be treated with tile adhesive. After this, the bath is allowed to dry thoroughly. As a rule, this takes at least several days.

Then a chain-link mesh is laid around the entire perimeter of the bowl. It is required to reinforce the bottom and sides of the reservoir. Apply a cement-sand mixture to the mesh or concrete mortar and let it dry. Then comes the final design of the banks.

Pond from a ready-made mold

The pit dug for the form, cleared of debris, branches and other items. The walls and bottom of the pit are compacted. When the soil at the dacha is very loose, it needs to be strengthened. The finished form requires a perfectly flat plane of the sides and bottom of the pit. The surface can be leveled using a building level.

Then the bottom must be filled with sifted sand, which must also be compacted. The sand layer is an excellent preservative that will ensure the integrity of the finished bowl.

After this, the bowl is placed in the pit and water is poured. The resulting voids between the ground and the sides of the mold are filled with sand; this must be done gradually. First, 20-25 cm of sand is poured, which is moistened with water. After distributing the sand, this process must be repeat until the voids are completely filled between the walls of the pit and the form.

This must be done, since the pond mold is very fragile and can be easily deformed. Uniform pressure over the surfaces of the bowl will prevent it from bending.

After a day, check the gap between the ground and the sides of the bowl. If there are voids left, add sand. We pour the water out of the mini-pond, clean it completely and pour in clean water.

Plant selection

Small plants are planted on the shore part of the pond. Hostas can create a picturesque picture on the shore of a pond; green ones prefer partial shade, and blue ones prefer shade.

Also, sedge with narrow leaves, which sometimes grow up to 80 cm, grows well in the shade. In partial shade, the unpretentious loosestrife with attractive inflorescences purple . You can plant molinia in a sunny area.

A fern will perfectly decorate the shore of a pond located in partial shade. It grows well on moist soil. The same conditions are suitable for astilbe. Its low-growing varieties are suitable for planting near a pond.

If the body of water is quite large, plant darmera (peltiphyllum) on the shore - perennial in the form of bushes up to 1 m high and up to 0.5 m in diameter with notched round leaves.

On the second level in the reservoir, water lilies are traditionally placed. Hybrid nymphs are characterized by a variety of flower colors. There is no need to overload the pond with a large number of specimens, they grow and only interfere with each other.

Sunny shallow water is great place for calamus. In a small reservoir, low calamus grass looks organic, and in a large reservoir, marsh calamus looks organic. Some varieties of irises also prefer low water.

The unpretentious whitewing is a fairly popular plant for home ponds. At the beginning of summer, a cob-shaped flower appears on it, and then red berries appear. We must remember that they are poisonous.

Aquatic hawthorn, which smells like vanilla, grows well in water, reaching a diameter of 50 cm. It is a deep-water plant. The miniature Azolla floating on the surface, covering the pond with a green carpet, looks original. However, you will need to fight it by periodically catching bushes.