Materials for the construction of the base. Requirements for materials of the basement of the building. Cladding the basement level with bricks

The base is the lower part of the walls of the building, adjacent to the foundation along the entire perimeter, a continuation of the foundation, rising 50-70 cm from the base. Functional task - creating protection for external walls from exposure external factors environment. From an aesthetic point of view, the plinth plays an important role; a high one, in combination with an architectural solution, will look more impressive than a low one, and if there is no plinth, the building looks more squat.

In a building with an underground floor, the plinth serves as protection for the walls. If the floor is installed immediately above the foundation, it functions as a support for the wall, and its height must be at least 50 cm. In houses with a basement floor, the height of the basement should be 1.5-2 m. In this case, a ventilation system for the basement and subfloor must be designed using special vents To do this, holes of 15x25 cm are made in the wall in contact with the foundation, the protection is a mesh, the height from the base of the building should be at least 15 cm, the step should be approximately 3 m. For the winter, it is better to install plugs for the holes.

The following types of bases are distinguished:

  1. Falling down is the most optimal option, since it is located deep in the wall, protected by it from external influences, water drainage is ensured, no additional water drainage device is required. Economical as it has the smallest width. With this plinth design, the waterproofing layer is hidden. When planning the structure of the house and the foundation, you should take into account some features that will not make the device possible, for example, climatic conditions require thicker walls, and since the thickness of the walls is small, the base cannot be made even thinner.
  2. The protruding one is suitable for houses with heated basements; the base is built wider than the wall, providing greater thermal protection. When designing, it is necessary to take into account the water drainage system, otherwise it will require regular repairs. external finishing, including the foundation, damaged by water. Material for the base is required that is resistant to humidity and temperature changes.
  3. A base located in the same plane as the wall, while the waterproofing layer remains unprotected: outwardly not the most attractive option. In addition, over time, with thin walls, dampness appears and condensation may form on the windows.

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Types of finishes, material for the base

  1. Ceramic brick (red).
  2. Natural stone.
  3. Precast or monolithic reinforced concrete.
  4. Tree.

The material for the plinth can be brick, reinforced concrete and natural stone; these materials do not require further finishing and do not deform from weather and temperature influences.

Depending on the style of the building, brick can be unchanged or lined with stone or tiles. If the walls are brick, then it is better to make the base reinforced concrete, this will ensure the solidity and strength of the structure, then you can line it with the same brick, tiles or natural stone.

The advantages of a monolithic reinforced concrete plinth, which is erected along the entire perimeter without the formation of seams, are great. Reinforced concrete structure durable and monumental - an ideal material for a plinth. First, formwork is arranged, cement is used grade M300 or 400, reinforcement is used - pipes, angles, wire and rods - the same as when constructing the foundation. After the cement mortar has hardened, all voids and cracks must be sealed and the entire surface covered with liquid cement mortar, since cement is more durable in use. If the base is wide enough and the height is large, then the formwork may not be enough for construction. Therefore, it is possible to erect masonry cladding that serves permanent formwork. The material can be artificial or natural stone, which is laid along the perimeter of the cement mortar; the adjacent plane to the base can be reinforced with a mesh. The mesh can be made of metal or fiberglass.

Prefabricated reinforced concrete is inferior to monolithic in that there are seams that make the structure less durable. It requires base protection. Concrete blocks are laid on cement mortar and must be bandaged. If the width does not allow laying solid blocks, then the voids are filled monolithic reinforced concrete with laying of the reinforcement frame.

A stone plinth requires precise knowledge and adherence to technology. The stone is laid on cement mortar, starting with large stones, from the corners of the foundation. If possible, the stones are fixed as close to each other as possible. The most suitable stones for the work are those with a shape close to rectangles, the height of which should be 10-25 cm. All voids between the stones are filled with cement mortar. The stone plinth must be divided into expansion joints filled with a material that has elastic properties.

The verticality of the base along the entire perimeter is determined using a plumb line and a mooring; the height must be maintained. The upper part must be leveled with a layer of cement mortar or concrete. The thickness of all seams should vary: horizontal - 1-1.5 cm, vertical - 0.8-1.5 cm.

Thickness brick plinth depends on the climatic conditions of construction, if frosts down to -30°C are possible in winter, then the thickness should be 1.5-2 bricks.

Wooden plinth made of logs. In this case, the lower log of the log house is strengthened on a brick base using inclined concrete ties, reaching half of the crown (the lower part of the log house). Outside, the concrete screed is covered metal sheet, acting as waterproofing. The spaces between the logs are sealed with felt. Inside, the plinth wall is plastered and a layer of roofing material is laid, the height is 3/4 of the crown higher than the foundation. The cement screed is placed on a layer of soil and slag made of artificial silicate. To prepare concrete, you need to take 1 part of cement and lime, adding 9 parts of fine slag.

At a certain architectural solution you can arrange the base in the form of a pile. To do this, wooden piles are driven into the ground at a distance of 15-20 cm, buried in the ground, the height is 20-50 cm, the pitch is 1.5 m. Smaller diameter logs are placed on the piles, serving as lining, and the cladding is wooden vertical boards. From the outside, the base of the foundation is covered with sand, and the space between the cladding and the walls is filled with slag. The part of the wall located at the plinth level must be isolated from the rest of the wall - horizontal waterproofing.

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Base protection techniques

  1. Ironing is plastering of masonry; dry cement is applied to the still damp plaster, rubbed with a trowel.
  2. Plaster, usually for a brick plinth, hides defects in the masonry, protects against water, while allowing air to pass through, providing waterproofing and thermal insulation. First, dowels are driven into the wall, to which a reinforcing mesh is attached, strengthening the plaster layer. The dried layer of plaster can be painted with facade paint. From time to time you will have to update the facade - tint and plaster some areas exposed to temperature changes. It is especially important to monitor the condition of the lower part of the base - near the foundation, since it is especially susceptible to moisture and temperature changes.
  3. Hydrophobic impregnation - preserves the color and texture of the brick.
  4. Coating with concrete is a more reliable way to protect the base; it is suitable for reinforced concrete and brick bases. Just like when plastering, to outside A reinforcing mesh is attached to the base, then the formwork is installed and concrete is poured. The concrete mass must be mobile and elastic to fill all voids.
  5. Painting with special paints based on acrylic copolymers. There are many types from different manufacturers.

As you know, all men understand politics, football and construction. Or they think they understand... In a word, when building his own private house, the future owner has to hear a lot of advice on how to make a basement “correctly”.

However, in such conversations on construction topics conducted by non-professionals, many specific engineering and architectural terms are often used not entirely correctly, with a distortion of meaning. Therefore, first you need to decide: what is a “base”?

Base - what is it and what is it for?

In construction terminology, a “plinth” is usually called a vertical structure located directly under outer wall building. Its main purpose is to raise the wall above the ground level in order to protect the wall material from contact with water on the surface of the earth (precipitation, floods), as well as to prevent the capillary rise of moisture from the ground.

In the case of a strip foundation, the base is its continuation, and, in addition to its main function - to raise the wall higher, it also transfers the load from the wall to the base. Rooms in a building in which most of the floor area is located below ground level are often even called the “basement” floor.

Plinth designs

The design of the basement of a private house depends entirely on the type of foundation used, and therefore it is worth considering the features of the execution of this element in relation to design features building.

Strip foundation

Let's consider a house without residential or utility rooms located below ground level. IN in this case It would be correct to call the plinth the upper part of the strip foundation, located above the planning level of the ground. In relation to the wall, it will be “recessed”, that is, the outer edge of the house wall will protrude outward relative to the outer edge of the base.


Plinth on strip foundation

The fact is that the material strip base in a private house, in the overwhelming majority of cases concrete is used, which, for a given constructive solution The foundation of the house has only one task - to carry and transmit the load from the wall. Usage thermal properties concrete (quite low, however), is not provided for in this design. Therefore, the width of the top of the “ribbon” in such a building can be assigned based on the minimum required for the convenience of laying materials on it for the construction of walls. The wall of the house, which in addition to the load, also performs the function of preserving heat, is traditionally thicker than the concrete foundation and usually protrudes with its outer edge beyond its plane.

Concrete works well under load and in a wet state, and therefore vertical waterproofing of the base in this case does not need to be done. But the closest attention should be paid to the installation of horizontal waterproofing at the junction of the wall and foundation materials. The purpose of such waterproofing is to put a barrier in the way of water rising through the pores of the base material. As water rises from the foundation into the wall material, the wall's ability to withstand the cold will sharply decrease. The result of this will be freezing of a section of the wall of the house.

Now consider a house with living or utility rooms adjacent to the outer foundation wall and with a floor level below ground level.


Lined plinth

In this case, additional requirements are imposed on the material of the base part - to ensure sufficient protection of the premises from cold air. There are several options for solving this problem:

  1. You can make the base part from the same material as the wall material. With this solution, the outer edge will be “flush” with the edge of the house wall.
  2. The base part is made from the base material, but it can be insulated with high-performance insulation from the outside. In this case, the outer edge of the base may protrude beyond the edge outer wall at home due to the thickness of the insulation.
  3. The base part can be built from a material that can withstand loads well, but is less efficient from the point of view of thermal engineering. For example, raising the basement part of a brick against the walls of a house made of wood. Due to the difference in thermal characteristics of the materials, it will again protrude beyond the outer edge of the walls of the house.

Shallow columnar and pile foundation

Due to the design features, the base here is a load-bearing foundation beam resting on pillars (grillage). The basement part of the foundation will look like a decorative vertical fence around the perimeter of the house, covering the beam and the space below it. It would be correct to make such a fence from sheet or linear material and hang it on the foundation.


In this case, the base part has exclusively decorative and enclosing functions. When constructing it, you need to carefully select the material from the point of view of moisture resistance and frost resistance, because these materials will work in conditions high humidity and negative temperatures.

The most common reason for choosing a columnar or pile foundation for a house is the desire to avoid expensive and time-consuming earthen and concrete work.

The savings achieved by abandoning the strip foundation are often lost when trying to build the base of the building in the form of a wall connecting the pillars or piles of the foundation. If you make a wall like this, then you need to build a reliable foundation for it. This means that we still need to return to concrete and earthworks. Thus, all savings from cheaper column or pile foundations are lost.

Selecting a plinth design

The design of the base should be selected based on the design of the foundation, and not vice versa. That is, the priority factor in building a house is still the foundation, and the base has a subordinate, albeit important, significance. If you raise the wall of a house with the help of a foundation to a sufficient height that prevents the wall from being soaked by surface water, the main task of the base has already been solved. This happens when constructing columnar and pile foundations, and the base in this case is assigned the role of enclosing the space under the house, the construction of which does not require special knowledge. In the video you will see how to correctly mark the base and build it.

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In most cases, you can get by with a decorative partition from pillar to pillar (from pile to pile). Close the space from the bottom of the wall to the ground level - and the problem of the base is solved. The choice of materials here can be very diverse: from vinyl siding to various sheet decorative materials For exterior finishing. It is also possible to attach external finishing materials(decorative tiles) to the base in the form of sheet material.


Decorative plinth

In this case, you should not assign other functions to the base part. A common mistake is to try to use decorative plinth as a retaining wall for sand or soil poured inside for the installation of floors “on the ground”.

The base part can perform supporting functions only if it is made in the form of a structure that has its own foundation and has the ability to resist overturning. The construction of such a plinth is a rather expensive undertaking, which will ultimately absorb all the cost savings from the use of pile or columnar foundations compared to strip foundations.

When the basement part serves as a load-bearing and at the same time enclosing structure of the house, as in the strip foundation of a house with a basement, it is necessary to make it vertical. If the premises below ground level are residential, the material of the base part must ensure normal temperature inside them. This can be achieved by making this part of the base of the house from the same material from which the wall of the house is made or by making additional external insulation of the base. In this case, it should be remembered that if the base part extends beyond the outer edge of the wall, you need to make a canopy that protects the materials of the exterior finishing of the base from direct exposure to rain and snow.

Requirements for materials of the basement of the building

As already mentioned, the materials used in the construction of the basement work under extreme conditions: humidity and negative temperatures. Therefore, when choosing options for finishing it, you should pay attention to the quality and characteristics of the materials. You should not experiment with materials that are not intended for outdoor use. This must be taken into account when choosing glue, mastic or impregnation. In the video you will see how to properly arrange the base and protect it from external influences.

The first requirement directly for materials is low water absorption. The frost resistance grade of a material is assigned during testing, when the material is frozen and thawed several times in a wet state. Naturally, the lower the amount of moisture that a material can absorb, the lower the risk of its destruction when the water frozen in the pores increases in volume and tears the material from the inside.

The basement is one of the most important parts of the building. This is a kind of support that is subject to constant negative influence of the environment. Finishing the basement of a private house not only gives it an aesthetic appearance, but also protects it from adverse factors. Therefore, finishing materials must be moisture-resistant, frost-resistant, reliable and durable.

Most of the building's foundation is below ground level and hidden from view. The protruding part above ground level is called the plinth. According to standards, the height of the plinth from the ground must be at least 20 cm. It is usually made of brick, stone or concrete slabs.

Construction stone plinth is the most practical solution, since the structure does not require additional finishing. However, it is worth considering that this is the most expensive method. Laying a brick plinth is more affordable. This material is environmentally friendly, has low and good strength characteristics.

Cladding the basement of a house is not only aesthetic. This is reliable protection of the building from external influences. Finishing materials that will be used to cover the base must have a high level of strength. Together with the plinth, its cladding will absorb the load created by the wall structures of the building and distribute it evenly over the foundation of the building. It must withstand pressure and protect the base from external factors, such as precipitation, sunlight, humidity, and temperature fluctuations.

The finishing material protects the foundation of the building from damage by mold, mildew and various types of insects. The cladding of the base is carried out to insulate the building. This is also necessary to protect the foundation from severe frosts, under the influence of which its strength decreases and the process of erosion develops.

If you leave the surface of the base without covering, this will contribute to its slow destruction as a result of constant exposure to dry or liquid dirt containing aggressive chemicals and minerals.

Various options for finishing the basement of a private house, photos clearly confirm this, transform the building into a masterpiece of design art, making its appearance complete and unique.

Types of basement structures

There are main variations of designs that are used for house projects with a basement:

  • protruding beyond the surface of the walls;
  • flush with the building;
  • sinking, relative to the wall.

Most often, when building a private house, a photo of the base of the house clearly confirms this; the first two options are used. A protruding plinth is recommended to be used when the house is being built with thin external walls, a warm underground is used, or the building has basement. In these cases, this type of plinth will provide the building with additional thermal insulation.

If the basement part is made flush with the building, when thin walls are used for its construction, dampness and condensation will inevitably occur in the interior. Here the most problematic thing is to install thermal insulation and finish.

Important! When choosing these types of plinth, you should take care in advance about the arrangement of ebb tides.

The sunken base is less damaged by precipitation. Here you can easily hide the waterproofing, install insulation and cover it with the necessary materials, which contributes to a longer service life. This type of plinth is recommended for buildings without a basement. Finishing materials for the plinth will absorb soil pressure, performing a supporting function, thereby maintaining the safety of the entire structure.

The procedure for finishing the basement of a house

All work on the cladding of the basement structure is carried out at the final stage of production - the exterior finishing of the building. It is better to carry out work in warm, dry weather. Sheathing the base consists of the following actions, which are performed in a certain sequence:

  1. A trench 20 cm deep and 50 cm wide is dug around the entire perimeter of the building.
  2. Fill the space with gravel to provide drainage. Additionally, the trench can be strengthened using reinforcing mesh.
  3. The surface of the wall, 50-70 cm high for the future plinth, is cleaned of dirt and processed. If necessary, all irregularities are eliminated.
  4. Arrangement of thermal insulation.
  5. Decorative cladding of the base.

Choice facing material and the method of laying it depends on the design of the base and the method of casting it.

Arrangement of ebb tides for the foundation plinth

To protect the base from negative impact atmospheric precipitation, a low tide should be installed, which is fixed above the protruding part of the plinth, and is a kind of delimiter between the base of the building and the wall structure. One part is in contact with the wall at a certain angle, and the other hangs over the foundation, covering it, collecting rain and melt water.

The flashings for the plinth are strips measuring 50-400 mm. The color, size and shape of the ebb should be selected depending on the finishing material of the foundation. You can make a water-repellent structure yourself using waterproof materials, or you can buy ready-made flashings for the foundation plinth at any hardware store.

Today the industry produces several types of ebb tides:

  • plastic;
  • metal;
  • concrete;
  • clinker

The type of tide is selected based on the finishing material for the facade of the building. Plastic ebbs are most successfully combined with vinyl siding, which is used for cladding the building. Thanks to a wide range of colors, you can choose the most suitable option. The use of concrete or clinker flashings for the plinth is preferable for buildings that are lined with natural stone or brick. Metal canopies can be used with any type of finishing material.

Types of tides

The most budget option is the use of plastic moldings made of polyvinyl chloride. The cost of the product is 50 rubles. for 1 p.m. Despite the high level of water resistance, ebb tides show increased sensitivity to physical impact, especially in winter period, when the slightest blow can cause them to crack and split.

Helpful advice! Due to the fact that plastic castings have increased fragility, preference should be given to more durable and expensive products.

The most durable and durable are ebbs made of metal: steel, copper or aluminum. Installation of the products is convenient and simple, and involves attaching metal strips to the walls of the building using self-tapping screws and dowels. When choosing this material from a wide range of types, special attention should be paid to the aesthetic appearance of the product so that it creates completeness general design building. The price of the product starts from 100 rubles/rm.

Helpful advice! When installing base flashings, the planks should overlap each other by at least 30 mm. To avoid damage to the protective layer of the product, which will lead to corrosion and destruction of the material, do not cut the strips.

Metal castings are made from high-quality and frost-resistant cement M450 with the addition of river sand, granite crushed stone and plasticizers. The solution is poured into Silicone forms various geometric parameters. The result is an even and smooth product. These tides are attached to a special solution.

Flashings for the foundation plinth, the price of which is the highest and starts from 200 rubles. for 1 linear meter - these are products made from clinker tiles. This material has high strength properties, reliably protects the building from the negative influence of the environment and successfully emphasizes the design of the cladding.

Low tide installation technology

After selecting the low tide, you can begin its installation. Here it is necessary to take into account not only the material from which the ebbs are made, but also the design features of the building. Yes, for wooden house Elements that will be attached using self-tapping screws or other fasteners are suitable. Since wood has low adhesion and is susceptible to dampness, the use of adhesives is not advisable.

For buildings made of brick or facing stone, you can use flashings that will be fixed using polymer or cement-adhesive mortars.

Helpful advice! When using concrete or ceramic sills, their installation should be carried out simultaneously with the cladding of the base and walls.

If it is necessary to install flashings on a building already finished with facing material, then it is better to use metal or vinyl elements.

Before installing the drip sills, it is necessary to seal the joints between the walls and the plinth. All cracks and crevices should be treated with a water-repellent mixture or sealed with sealant. Next, you need to use a level to mark the wall. The highest point of the base is determined and a horizontal line is drawn along which the upper part of the ebb will be mounted. The part of the foundation that protrudes must be cement screed compare with a horizontal plane. The lower part of the ebb will rest on it.

Important! The ebb plane relative to the wall should be located with a slope of 10-15%.

Installation of metal and plastic ebbs

Installation of ebb tides should begin from the corner, using special corner elements, which can be purchased together with planks of the same width and color. Next, you need to finish all the protruding parts of the building structure: columns, pilasters and others.

Related article:

What materials are used for low tides. Which of them is better to choose and in what case. Installation of ebb tides.

In the upper part of the ebb, holes are drilled using a drill at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. Next, the element is applied to the previously marked line on the wall of the house and is attached to it with dowels and self-tapping screws. The lower part of the ebb is attached to the concrete base of the plinth with dowel nails in increments of 40-50 cm. The joint between the ebb and the wall should be sealed with putty or silicone compound.

Important! During installation of the ebb, it should be taken into account that it should protrude 2-3 cm beyond the edge of the base, which will ensure better protection during precipitation.

After covering all the corners and protruding elements, you should begin installing the drip linings in straight sections. You need to start from one of the corners. Each subsequent element should be overlapped with the previous one by at least 3 cm. All joints should be treated with sealant to prevent moisture from entering.

Installation of concrete and clinker slabs

Flashings made of clinker and concrete should be installed at the stage of facing the facade of the building, since adjusting them to size during the installation process is a labor-intensive process.

These types of ebb tides are better combined with facing materials such as brick, clinker tiles, natural or. To attach them, you should use a special adhesive composition for ceramics and stone, which is intended for outdoor use. It is purchased in the form of a dry mixture created on a cement or polymer base, and with the help of water it is brought to the state of thick sour cream. The solution can be made independently using cement and construction sand in a ratio of 1:3 or 1:4.

Installation of concrete and clinker ebbs also starts from the corner. To avoid complex processing of concrete castings, they should be pre-positioned in such a way as to minimize their cutting. This can be achieved by using the correct size of the seam between the elements. You can adjust the dimensions of clinker products by using a tile cutter or grinder with a diamond cutting wheel.

An adhesive mixture is applied to the back side of each element. The ebb tide is attached strictly along the previously outlined line. After waiting some time for the solution to set, putty or silicone sealant is applied to the joints between the casting elements. After the glue has completely set, you can cladding the walls of the building.

Waterproofing the foundation plinth

The basement of the building is constantly in difficult conditions. It takes a significant load from the above-ground part of the building and comes into contact with the external environment, being exposed to moisture. In order to protect an important part of the house from destruction, it is necessary to take a number of measures, one of which is the arrangement of waterproofing of the foundation base.

Waterproofing can be horizontal and vertical. Usually a set of works is performed that includes both methods. Horizontal waterproofing is performed before the construction of walls and is aimed at protecting them from moisture. However, in order to ensure a complete protective set of measures, it is also necessary to carry out waterproofing between the foundation and the base.

Vertical waterproof protection is aimed at preventing the negative effects of surface and ground water on brick or concrete. Such insulation can be external or internal. The best effect is provided by double-sided moisture protection.

Today, pile foundations are predominantly used in the construction of buildings. Here the base plays not only a decorative role, but also protects the house from heat loss. Despite the fact that this element is not load-bearing and does not directly affect the durability of the structure, waterproofing the base is mandatory.

Materials for waterproofing the basement from the outside

Coating, roll and injection compounds with penetrating action are widely used as materials used for waterproofing the foundation plinth.

To protect the foundation from the effects of groundwater, roll waterproofing is often used, which can be fused or glued. Fused insulation consists of a base in the form of fiberglass, polyester or fiberglass and applied mastic. Pasted waterproofing it is laid on the surface of the foundation using bitumen mastic, which is first applied to the rolled material and to the monolith, then the element is glued, pressed and smoothed.

The main advantage roll material for the plinth plate is its low cost and high speed installation. However, this type of waterproofing does not resist mechanical stress well and has a short service life. It cannot be used in places where communications pass or connect. Before installation, the surface should be cleaned of dust and dirt and dried thoroughly.

As coating waterproofing materials bitumen, polymer, bitumen-polymer mastics, astringent plasters and cement coatings are used, which are applied to the surface of the foundation using a brush or roller. This type of insulation is used for water pressure up to 2.6 kgf/cm².

Helpful advice! To ensure increased strength of waterproofing after the first layer of mastic, it is recommended to reinforce the surface with fiberglass and apply subsequent layers on top of it.

The material is low cost and can be applied to a surface of any configuration. However, it is not durable and requires preparatory work and creating additional protection from mechanical impact.

The use of injectable and penetrating formulations is the latest technology waterproofing the structure. Penetrating material is applied to a wet surface concrete base. Reacting with water, the composition turns into crystals that penetrate the pores of concrete, making it waterproof. The penetration depth reaches 150-250 mm.

Injection waterproofing is carried out using a liquid solution, which is injected under pressure into the cracks, pores and seams of the structure. This method can be used for waterproofing buildings made of rubble and brick. The use of this waterproofing is a very labor-intensive process that requires cleaning the structure down to concrete or brick, and the complexity of the work itself requires the involvement of experienced craftsman. In addition, such insulation is the most expensive.

Features of waterproofing a brick plinth

Ceramic brick is most often used to build a basement. Its waterproofing can be carried out using various methods.

Solid red brick can be used to build walls. This building material has already undergone factory processing, where a layer of waterproofing was previously applied to it. Therefore, when using this brick for the construction of a building, there is no need to install external waterproofing. Despite the fact that the cost of this material is relatively high, these costs are offset by the fact that after laying the brick, no other work is required.

The next way to waterproof a brick plinth is to use bitumen lubricant, which is applied in several layers, cold or hot.

Insulation of the foundation plinth from the outside can be done independently using high-quality adhesive composition

Important! When using bituminous materials, it is important to strictly observe temperature regime. If the lubricant overheats, the coating will turn out to be of poor quality with the formation of blisters, cracks and bubbles.

The traditional method of waterproofing is the use of roofing felt. For a brick plinth, it is recommended to cover it with this material in at least 4-5 layers.

One of the new construction technologies is the use of a penetrating active two-component waterproofing composition, which fills all cracks and pores of the base with subsequent crystallization. This is the most reliable waterproofing of a brick plinth with a minimum thickness of material applied.

How to insulate the basement outside the house with your own hands

By insulating the foundation base from the outside, not only the internal space, but also the enclosing structures are protected from moisture and cold. However, to achieve good result, the insulation for the base should be:

  • durable and elastic, so that, taking on mechanical stress, it remains undamaged;

  • moisture resistant;
  • lightweight so as not to create additional load on the base of the building;
  • durable;
  • resistant to chemical influences.

Important! When selecting insulation material, it should be taken into account that its application technology should not compromise the integrity of the building’s structure.

The main features of arranging external insulation for a strip foundation:

  1. The insulation is installed not only on aboveground part building, but also to the one that is underground with a depth of about 50-80 cm. To do this, a trench 80 cm deep and 1 m wide is laid around the perimeter of the house.
  2. To protect the insulation from the effects of groundwater, drainage pipes are laid at the bottom of the trench.
  3. A layer of liquid waterproofing using polymer compounds or bitumen mastic is applied to the walls of the basement.
  4. After the waterproofing layer has completely dried, the heat-insulating material is installed.

All of the above operations, with the exception of digging a trench, are also performed to insulate the base of a pile-screw foundation.

Materials for insulating the foundation base from the outside

The materials used for thermal protection of the base of a building are subject to certain requirements: reliable protection, durability, simple and quick installation, reasonable cost.

Based on the stated requirements, one of the most economical and affordable thermal insulation options is to insulate the base with extruded polystyrene foam. This is a durable, moisture-resistant, frost-resistant and acid-resistant material that is small in thickness and weight, which simplifies its installation. The slabs are produced with a thickness of 3-10 cm. If the maximum thickness is not enough, then the thermal insulation is installed in two layers. However, it is worth paying attention that the material has a flammability G1-G4, so after its installation it is necessary to line the base with non-flammable materials.

Helpful advice! For outdoor use, you should choose slabs with flame retardant impregnations (G1-G2).

Scheme for insulating the basement of a building using

Spraying polyurethane foam is rarely used to insulate the base. This is due to the fact that to carry out this type of thermal protection it is necessary to use special equipment, certain chemical components and the involvement of highly qualified workers. The essence of the method is that polyurethane foam is sprayed onto any surface. Expanding, it penetrates into all voids and reliably adheres to the base, forming a dense coating. This material can be used not only for spraying, but also for filling individual voids and areas.

Do-it-yourself technology for insulating the foundation plinth from the outside with penoplex

On preparatory stage it is necessary to prepare the foundation surface by clearing it of old insulation, dirt and dust. Next, you should install a layer of waterproofing to protect the structure from rain, groundwater and snow water. Any type of waterproofing is suitable for penoplex, with the exception of compositions with organic components.

Work begins with insulation of the underground part of the foundation. For this purpose, PPS boards are attached using specialized contact adhesive, which is applied around the perimeter of the product and in the center. The second level should be laid with the joints between the slabs staggered in relation to the lower level. After installation, all cracks are filled with polyurethane foam.

The base insulation layer with penoplex requires additional protection from mechanical damage. To do this, an alkali-resistant reinforcing mesh is fixed to the slabs, which is subsequently plastered with a solution containing hydrophobic additives. Also, as protection, you can use wooden pinches, which are attached to the slabs using dowel nails. Wood must first be subjected to antiseptic, anti-foam and hydrophobic treatment.

The final stage is finishing the base with facing materials.

Cladding the basement of a house: which material is better to choose

Do-it-yourself finishing of the base various materials, which reliably protect and decorate its surface. This process must be performed before wall cladding in order to be able to hide the ebb under the finishing material for the walls.

The material for cladding the plinth must have the following performance characteristics:

  • have low thermal conductivity to avoid heat loss from the building;
  • provide reliable and strong adhesion to the base;
  • have a high level of strength and wear resistance to mechanical damage;
  • have low hygroscopicity and vapor permeability to avoid moisture penetration into the foundation and wall panels.

Today, when the question is raised about how to decorate the basement of a house, the following materials are used that fully meet the above requirements:

  • clinker or porcelain tiles;
  • natural or artificial stone;
  • brick;
  • PVC panels or basement siding;
  • profiled sheet;
  • decorative or mosaic plaster.

Any finishing material can be used to cover the base of a strip foundation. But when the question arises of how to cover the base of a house on screw piles, you should give preference to brickwork, siding or corrugated sheets.

Before deciding how to decorate the outside of the house’s basement, you need to take into account some nuances:

  • when covering the base with thick material, it is necessary to install an ebb above the protruding part;
  • If you want to expand the foundation, it is better to use brickwork;
  • When installing or corrugated sheeting, you should first install a frame, the space of which can be filled with a heat insulator for additional insulation of the foundation;
  • Frame-cladding technology allows work to be carried out at any time of the year.

Using plaster to cover the base

When the question is: how to inexpensively decorate the basement of a house, the answer is obvious - use plaster. However, this option is the least durable and also has an unaesthetic appearance. Such cladding is easily damaged by any mechanical influences and does not provide adequate protection of the base from external factors. However, this method is widely popular due to its low cost. It is also acceptable in the case of erecting a brick plinth on a strip foundation.

Plastering itself is not the final stage. To protect the layer from moisture and environmental influences, acrylic, alkyd, silicone paint, a water-based or oil-based composition should be applied to it, which in turn decorates the base. The photo of the house decoration clearly demonstrates various options use of plaster.

Helpful advice! It is not recommended to use it for painting the base. enamel paints. They do not allow air to pass through and are environmentally unsafe.

Often used decorative plaster, which creates the effect of a fur coat and can be colored using dye. The use of mosaic plaster allows you to create a multi-colored mosaic on the surface, which occurs due to the presence of fine chips in the composition of the original mixture. The presence of resin as a binder gives the composition increased water resistance.

Solve the question of how to make a plinth around the house with your own hands with the effect natural stone, using a special silicone stamp will help, with which impressions are made on the plastered surface.

In private homes, finishing the base with corrugated sheets is widely used. The material has a high moisture resistance, is resistant to temperature fluctuations, durable, easy to process and can be easily mounted on a wooden sheathing. However, corrugated sheeting is not suitable as a finishing material for wooden buildings due to the fact that it is susceptible to corrosion under the influence of high humidity, which can lead to rotting of the wood.

Profiled sheets are often used to finish the base of a pile-screw foundation, where it must be covered for reliable protection from atmospheric influences.

Features of using bricks for finishing the base

One of the most expensive finishing materials is brick. However, having high strength and performance characteristics, it allows you to create strong, reliable and durable protection. This material is suitable for any type of foundation. For brickwork should use slotted, hollow, hyper-pressed or ceramic brick. Work begins with arranging the foundation for the masonry.

If the brick is used to build the base itself, it does not need additional finishing. However, here you should choose high-quality material in order to immediately solve two problems: utilitarian, protecting the walls of the house from external influences, and aesthetic, giving the building decorative look. When deciding which brick is better for the foundation plinth, you need to give preference to red baked brick, which is resistant to aggressive environments.

In the case of finishing the base of a pile-screw foundation using brickwork, it is necessary to install a base in the form of a strip of reinforced concrete or metal profile. Brick laying occurs with bandaging. Used to connect elements cement-sand mortar. The thickness of the seams is 10-12 mm.

Cladding the basement of a private house is important, so you should carefully consider the choice of material for the work. It acts not only as a decorative element, but also provides reliable protection for the entire building from the effects of atmospheric and mechanical factors.

The construction of any building always begins with laying the foundation. This is an integral part of construction work, without which it will not be possible to achieve structural strength and balance.

Most often, the foundation rises several centimeters, and sometimes even meters, above ground level. This part is called the base. Naked concrete wall it looks unsightly from an aesthetic point of view, so designers recommend decorating it.

Installing panels on the basement of a house

There are many different materials for finishing, which differ:

  • price;
  • quality;
  • operational abilities;
  • physical and technical characteristics.

Before you start construction works, namely laying the foundation, you need to think in advance about what type of material you would like to finish the basement of the building. In this case, you should take into account the features of the exterior, climate and financial capabilities.

In addition, it is necessary to know and clearly understand why finishing with facing materials is needed: is it just an aesthetic whim or important detail designs?

For most people, the exterior design of a house is one of the important points during its construction. Such nuances are discussed in advance with builders, designers and architects.

Covering the base with decorative tiles

However, few people know that plinth cladding is not only about decorating cold, sloppy concrete. Finishing work initially has a completely different purpose:

  1. Protecting the foundation from damage. Colonies of fungi or mold can grow on concrete over time. Also, the base is not protected from damage by corrosion and erosion. Constant rain, snow, frost or heat contribute to the appearance of cracks and splits, which in turn threatens the integrity of the building.
  2. Protection against contamination. The environmental situation in the world contributes to the fact that acid rain falls, and polluted air contains elements that destroy even concrete. If the base often succumbs to such contamination, then very soon it will begin to collapse beyond the possibility of restoration. The consequence will be irreparable destruction of the house. Cladding saves the foundation from such processes.
  3. Warming function. Despite the fact that the basement is located much lower than the floor of the living space, its excessive cooling helps to reduce the temperature in the house. This is due to the fact that concrete instantly absorbs cold and distributes it vertically along the walls. Even an insulated floor cannot always prevent this process. At the same time, enormous financial resources are spent on heating. However, there is little result from this. In addition, due to exposure to cold, erosion processes can begin or mold can grow, for which cold and dampness are an ideal environment.
  4. Protection from external influences. The strength and durability of concrete, brick and any other foundation are affected by weather and atmospheric conditions. Ultraviolet radiation gradually destroys the structure. Strong winds, frosts, excessive air humidity, etc. also have a negative impact. Facing materials protect against such factors, which can be easily replaced if necessary. With the base the situation is much more serious.

Based on the above factors, we can conclude: finishing the base is a necessity. No builder can guarantee the strength and reliability of a building without finishing.

Base cladding options

To prevent foundation destruction and ensure comfortable conditions living in the house, the basement must be finished with facing materials. You can choose cladding colors and textures that match the rest of the building materials.

There are also special insulation systems for walls. You can choose a protective coating against corrosion, erosion, mildew and mold.

If you don't know what type of cladding fits better In all cases, consult a specialist. The architect or builder who is constructing your home is competent in this matter.

Cladding option No. 1: Plastering or painting

The most popular method of processing the base is plastering. Its fame is due to its availability and reliability. A layer of plaster strengthens, decorates and protects the structure from environmental influences.

Plastered basement of the house

Features of the material

In order for the plaster to perform its function, you must follow the rules for its application:

  • The level of protection and thermal insulation depends on the thickness of the layer. The thicker the layer, the better.
  • To ensure a durable and moisture-resistant finish, apply a cement base before plastering.
  • The coverage will be uniform when applying two layers. Use decorative plaster as the final coating.
  • Reinforcement of the structure will help to avoid cracking and falling off of the top layer.

Important: The classic mortar, cement-sand, is best suited for lining the gap. Apply the composition intended for facade decoration on top.

Installation

Plastering the basement of a house

Step-by-step instruction plastering the plinth

Free the basement spaces from excess layers and remove dirt and dust. Also get rid of oil stains.

Prime the clean surface with primer.

Stuff the plaster mesh. For 1 sq. m there must be at least 16 fastenings. It will be better if you make 20. Use dowels with wide heads.

Screw in the screws and attach plumb lines to them. The distance between the screws and the corners of the wall is 30 cm. Pull the thread in a vertical position over the free screws. Connect the screws using horizontal threads. Place the threads at a distance of 2 cm from the wall.

Make beacons and fix them with cement mortar. Step – 1.5-2 m. Distance to corners – 30 cm. The most reliable material for beacons is a steel profile.

After the cement hardens, pour cement-sand mortar between the beacons. To cast, use a ladle, level the protrusions and depressions using the rule. Leave to dry for 6 hours.

Remove the beacons and smooth the surface with a plaster float.

Cover the base surface with plastic wrap. Leave to harden for 2 weeks. Moisten the surface with water once every 2-3 days. This will help with ripening.

Prime the base and cover it with decorative plaster.

Advantages

Plaster for cladding is chosen for the following reasons:

  • Relatively low cost of materials and installation work.
  • Installation is done by hand: no special tools or equipment are required.
  • Simple repair.
  • Reliable coverage.
  • Possibility of applying decor.

Flaws

Negative features of plaster include:

  • Low level of strength compared to analogues.
  • Short service life.
  • Low thermal insulation.
  • Water and moisture permeability.
  • Strength degrades over time due to freezing and thawing.
  • Installation cannot be carried out if the structure is exposed to direct sunlight. Negative temperatures and precipitation are also restrictions for work.

Since plaster and paint peel off quickly, you need to constantly monitor the condition of the coating on the facade and regularly make cosmetic repairs.

On a note

  • You can cover the base with several layers of plaster yourself. To do this, you do not need to do any preliminary work. It is enough to buy plaster desired color and cover the concrete with it in several layers.
  • If for certain reasons you do not want or cannot plaster the base yourself, hire a master painter-plasterer. A professional will do this work for you efficiently and quickly. However, do not forget that good specialists do not come cheap. But the result is worth it: the base will be durable and protected from all types of damage.
  • If you are not satisfied with the color of the plaster, then after drying you can apply two layers on top facade paint. Today there are more than 50 shades that can be used to decorate the foundation. In addition, special decorative plaster is sold in building materials stores. different colors and textures.
  • An interesting option would be to decorate the facade with homemade stones. They can be made from ordinary concrete. To do this, form the desired shape of the stones using a spatula and let them dry. Then cover the artificial stones with paint or plaster. This design will be cheap, but it will look just great.

Cladding option No. 2: Use of natural and artificial stones

To make the façade look elite and rich, use stone cladding. Each stone has its own advantages and characteristics. Experts advise consulting with builders or architects before purchasing, since in a particular case a particular stone may not be suitable. The strength of the foundation, weather conditions and the size of the house are taken into account.

Types of stone

Types of stone for plinth cladding

In addition to choosing between artificial and natural stone, decide on the texture. The stone comes in the following textures:

  • smooth;
  • polished;
  • chopped;
  • sawn.

Features of natural stone

Natural stone has various shapes: rectangle, square, circle, non-standard (made to order).

It also has different thicknesses: 0.5 and 1 cm.

This thickness is determined by ease of installation and durability of the structure. As the thickness increases, the stone becomes heavy and there is a risk of spalling.

The positive features of natural stone include:

  • High level of strength.
  • The surface is produced using special equipment. Therefore, the coating will be uniform without additional work.
  • Long service life: more than 10 years.
  • You can do the installation yourself.

The complexity of finishing is determined by the size of the stone and the tools for work. You also need to take into account that stone is a heavy material. Therefore, not every surface is suitable for cladding. In cases where the surface cannot withstand the stone, it needs to be strengthened.

How to prepare the surface:


Installation of stone on reinforcing mesh

Important: Tight fastening of the mesh is ensured by metal lugs. Screw them into the mesh.

After strengthening, level the surface with plaster or concrete mortar. remember, that concrete mortar cannot be smoothed with sandpaper.

For cladding you will need the following materials:

  • building level;
  • concrete solution;
  • putty knife;
  • tile cutter

Tips for cladding:

  • Work from the bottom up.
  • First of all, lay out the corners and fasten them tightly.
  • Create additional insulation using the following materials: polystyrene foam, extruded polyurethane foam, polystyrene foam, mineral wool. This is necessary because the stone itself is cold.

Facing artificial stone

Natural stones look noble, but have significant disadvantages: heavy weight and high cost. Therefore, if you do not pretend to be aristocracy and royal nobility, artificial materials may well replace natural ones. The main thing is to choose the right shape, texture and type of fastening.

Finishing the base with artificial stone

Surface types:

  • smooth;
  • torn;
  • structural;
  • embossed.

The following materials are used for cladding: shell rock, granite, sandstone, etc. (see table below).

A special feature of artificial stone of different structures is the ability to create an individual house facade. For such purposes, stone with a torn structure is most often used.

Finishing with artificial stone is practically no different from cladding technology natural material. Recommendations for leveling and insulation are similar.

Differences in technology:

  1. There is no need to insulate the surface, since the artificial material has less weight.
  2. Any surface can be finished by covering the insulating layer with materials such as drywall, plywood or OSB. The stone is installed directly on top of these materials.

For installation, concrete mortar and ceramic adhesive are used. A durable and fresh surface is ensured by applying a coat of primer.

When finishing decorative stone The following work is being carried out:


Features of natural and artificial types of stones

Find out the features of the most popular stones from the table below:

Coverage type Material Photo Advantages Peculiarities
A natural stone Shell rock
Low cost, high strength, visual appeal.Heavy weight, difficult to install.
Limestone
Affordable price, decorative effect, the ability to choose shape, color and texture.Heavy weight, difficult to operate, risk of making the foundation heavier.
Granite
Refined and rich appearance, resistance to cold and heat.High cost, heavy weight, risk of foundation collapse.
Marble
Durability, aristocratic and rich appearance, 100% protection from damage.High cost, difficult to install and operate, heavy weight.
Gabbro
The appearance and color resembles the starry sky, high strength, protection from cold, heat and moisture.Sky-high cost, heavy weight, difficult to operate.
Labradorite
One of the most beautiful facing stones. Durable, reliable and weather resistant.The material is more expensive than all others. It is difficult to install and weighs a lot.
Artificial stones Canyon panelsThe panels are not much different appearance from natural stone, but are much cheaper. They are durable, and there are options with insulation.They are attached to special iron hooks, which is very convenient.
Tiles attached with glue
The panels are lightweight and easy to use. There is a choice of different colors and textures.They are attached with glue, so they do not always fit. It is better to choose models that are attached to iron hooks.

Option No. 3: Finishing with brick or “brick-like”

Brick or its imitation is a classic finish. The material is suitable for any type of exterior without making the structure look cheap.

Brick can be combined with any type of wall and roof decoration, as it looks equally neat and harmonious with all building materials. A special substrate is made under the brick, which serves as insulation for walls and floors in residential premises.

Advantages of brick

Positive aspects of finishing the base with brick:

  • High degree of structural strength.
  • Possibility to carry out installation yourself.
  • No maintenance required.
  • Service life is more than 10 years.
  • High maintainability.

How to choose the right brick?

If the foundation is designed for heavy loads, choose ordinary building bricks. If the building stands on a columnar or strip foundation, use facing brick with light weight.

Properties that a good brick should have:

  • Low moisture absorption coefficient.
  • Frost-resistant, tolerates low temperatures. Frost resistance is determined by the endurance of thawing and freezing cycles.
  • High tensile strength, since the plinth bears part of the weight of the walls.

Preparatory work

The finishing of the base with bricks is done at a distance of 2-3 cm from the external wall insulation. This creates ventilation and prevents moisture accumulation. Normal ventilation will also be facilitated by mortar-free seams, which must be left in the first row.

Finishing the base with brick

The facing and load-bearing walls are connected in two ways:

  1. Placement of galvanized anchors. One end is attached to the load-bearing wall, the second - between the rows of masonry.
  2. Fixing a dowel tied with wire. The ends of the wire are attached between the rows.

Important: Every 1 sq. m must have at least 5 ligaments with load-bearing wall. Place them horizontally every 50-70 cm, vertically every 3-4 rows. In the openings, make more dense strapping.

Methods for preparing the solution:

  1. Cement and sifted sand 1:4.
  2. Cement, sifted or river sand, limestone dough 1:7:2 or 1:8:2.

Add water and stir. Make balls from the resulting mixture: they will not crumble in your hand.

The cement sets quite quickly. Therefore, prepare the solution in small batches.

Display Features

Precision and accuracy when forming and opening seams are the 2 basic rules for laying a plinth with bricks.

Let's consider methods of cladding over the foundation.

Chain ligation of masonry

Lay out 2 rows of hatching bricks interior wall. Using brick scraps, level the height of the masonry. They are mounted above the rows, laid end to end against the load-bearing wall.

Use a multi-row dressing system. Remove bandages after every third row.

Pay attention to the condition of the foam concrete: if it is poorly dried, after a while the interlocking bricks sandwiched in the rows may be cut off. This is due to different degrees of shrinkage of brick and foam concrete.

Important: To prevent shrinkage from stopping, foam concrete blocks must lie down for some time before starting construction work.

If the final surface will be laid out decorative bricks, start with the installation of the facing verst.

The 1st row is laid with a poke, the 2nd and 3rd with a spoon.

If you use halves of finishing bricks, lay them in a butt pattern.

Laying in reverse

This method differs from the previous ones in the order of installation. First, a series of exterior finishes are laid, then the interior verst and backfill are constructed.

In this case, perform dressing with bonded masonry. Since the bonded masonry has a height of two rows, the dressing is half included in the finishing row.

The main advantage of this method is the reliable fastening of internal and external walls.

  • When applying the mortar, make sure that it does not reach the edges of the brick.
  • Wipe off excess solution.
  • After laying several rows, wipe the walls with a damp cloth.

Features of types of bricks are presented in the table:

Coverage type Material Photo Advantages Peculiarities
Natural brick Hyperpressed
Available different sizes(Russian, American).
Durable, durable.
The heaviest option, does not absorb water well.
Silicate
More economical option. Light weight, easy to operate.Unstable as a facing material, poor hydro- and thermal insulation.
Ceramic
The best option for cladding among all types natural brick. It has an internal filled structure, light weight and high strength.The material is easy to use, the price is quite high.
Artificial brick Clinker tiles
In terms of technical and physical characteristics, it is not inferior to natural brick.Light weight, easy to work with material.
Plinth panelsLooks like real brick, you can order a panel with insulation.It has a polyurethane foam or polystyrene base, easy to install and use.

On a note: If you decide to finish the base with brick or “like a brick,” make a separate strip foundation for the facing material. The brick is laid with a small gap from the wall, and the cladding foundation must be connected to the main foundation.

Option No. 4: Siding as finishing

It happens that brick and natural materials should never be used to decorate a particular building. At the same time, plaster may not completely satisfy aesthetic needs. In this case, it is best to give preference to basement siding. It comes in the form of panels and imitates pattern, color and texture natural material. Moreover, siding can be used to cover not only the base, but also all the walls.

Siding options for finishing the base

On a note: In order for the siding walls and the same base to look harmonious, it is recommended to select materials of different colors for their finishing. As a rule, darker shades are suitable for the base, and the walls should be lined with light siding.

The material consists of the following components:

  • polyvinyl chloride;
  • fiber cement;
  • polymer sand mixtures, etc.

Types of siding

It is mainly used for roof lining. It can be either solid or perforated to ensure better roof ventilation.

There are three subtypes:

  • Herringbone

  • Double herringbone

  • Ship timber

Such panels are used exclusively for vertical installation.
Metal siding "under the timber". This type of siding externally imitates a round log and is similar to wooden lining type of block house.

Metal siding "under the timber"

The siding covering is equipped with special panels for fastening. This leaves a gap between the cladding and the wall. It should be filled with insulation or shell rock. Thus, the structure becomes more durable and the level of thermal insulation of the house increases.

In construction stores you can choose any color, texture and shape of building siding panels. In addition, there are original options, imitating not only stone and brick, but even wooden beams, roughly chopped shingles, ship planks, etc.

Benefits of siding

How to cover a basement with siding

Siding is chosen due to a long list of positive features:

  • Simple installation without calling specialists. The parts are connected by locks and latches. Fastening - screws and nails.
  • The panels do not lose their original appearance: they do not deform or fade.
  • The surface material does not peel or delaminate.
  • There are no chips or scratches on the siding panels. They are not afraid of wind pressure and impacts.
  • The structures are durable: they last more than 50 years.
  • The material can withstand temperatures in the range from -50 to +50 degrees, and is not susceptible to ultraviolet rays.
  • The panels look like natural materials.
  • PVC does not rot and is not subject to corrosion.
  • The material is not interesting to insects, small rodents and other pests.
  • Easy care: wash once a year with water and detergent.

Installation

Instructions for carrying out finishing works in the plinth area using siding:

Clean the base, remove protruding parts, repair cracks and other defects.

Attach the profile strips to the wall. For fastening, use dowels. Fix the bottom bar horizontally. It should be located at a distance of 2-3 cm from the ground. Attached at the top top bar. The middle one is attached parallel to the top and bottom strips, exactly in the middle.

Layer down mineral wool and cover with a windbreak. You can use polystyrene foam.

Make a starting strip along the bottom bar. The strip must run horizontally.
Measure the distance between the basement and the wall. These data will be the dimensions of the corner strip. Attach the corner strip to the corner that is to the left of the structure.

Trim the panel along the left edge. Then insert it into the starter bar and push it into the corner. Leave a gap of 6-10 mm. When fixing, do not tighten the screws to the end by 1-2 mm.

Next, do everything in the same way to the corner. Before the corner, cut the panel and insert it into the starting strip. Connect to the previous part and secure. Place the bar on the corner and secure it.

Cover the top edge with a cornice. You can also use the finishing strip for these purposes.

Installation of flashings for finishing the base

First of all, it is worth noting that the base can have a different location. Most a good option it is considered to be one in which the foundation protrudes slightly forward from behind the walls, forming a small step. This arrangement is ideal, since the base is protected from excessive moisture, dirt, etc.

Installation of ebb tides

However, it must be remembered that mandatory stage facing is the installation of flashings. Otherwise, the finishing will have no meaning.

Important: To prevent water from being retained during drainage, bend the side of the visor facing the wall up and the opposite side down.


Important: If you hit the plastic with a hammer while bending, you will ruin the structure. Place a rubber pad on top of it. Felt can be used for the same purposes. Leave one edge uncurled.

Gloss black option


Video instructions for installing drip sills on a plinth

Consider the following nuances when installing basement flashings:

  • To avoid distortions, be sure to make markings before attaching to the foundation.
  • Wash the joints with frost-resistant sealant.
  • Cut outer and inner corners from a solid plank.
  • The width of the ebb should be no more than 50 cm.
  • If the house is wooden, take care reliable waterproofing: Make a polymer or copper coating.

There are a great many options for finishing the base and ebbs. The main thing is to intelligently calculate how much building material is needed and which cladding will look most advantageous, while being suitable for the type of structure. You also need to evaluate your financial and physical capabilities. Initially, it is better to entrust the work to specialists in order to avoid annoying mistakes due to inexperience.

Today we will talk about plinth. One of the meanings of the word what?(Italian zoccolo - shoe with a wooden sole) - the lower part of the outer wall (most often protruding), which is located on the foundation.

We do not plan to cover the topic of building basements for a house completely - there is the Internet for that. We will tell you in detail everything about how we built a brick plinth on a monolithic reinforced concrete strip foundation for our house made of gas silicate blocks.

In this article, as usual, you will find a lot of specific, useful and, we hope, interesting material for you:

  • briefly about the purpose of the base;
  • briefly about the types of base;
  • a detailed description of the construction of a brick plinth for our house from gas silicate blocks (foam concrete);
  • new photos and audio recordings telling about the construction of the basement for the house.

Purpose of the base

The plinth is an intermediate structure located between the foundation and load-bearing walls.

  1. One of the purposes of the plinth is prevention the walls of your home from precipitation(melting snow, rainwater, dew), capillary suction(moisture coming from the ground). If the house does not have a basement, then capillary moisture can rise up to 3 meters up the wall of your house. This can further lead to mold and rotting of the wall, loss of frost resistance and an increase in the thermal conductivity of the wall material.
  2. Since our house does not have a basement (basement) and the floor is located on the ground, the basement, takes on mechanical stress, which is caused by the backfilled earth inside the perimeter of the house;
  3. It rests on the plinth.
  4. For our house we poured . In this case the base will also allow you to “decorate” the perimeter future home.

Thus, on plinth the building is fully impacted. Therefore, to ensure the strength and safety of the base, it must be built from high-quality materials that have frost resistance, minimal moisture resistance and mechanical strength.

When building the basement for our house, we did not use new brick, but it was quite durable and good quality. This is clearly visible in the photos attached to the article. Thus, we were able to successfully solve two problems at once:

  • minimized the cost of brick for the basement by using old brick;
  • Good quality solid brick was used.

Base types

It should be noted that below we will talk about plinths, taking into account the final insulation or finishing of the walls and the plinth itself. This is an important note because... directly when laying the base and walls, and then when finishing them, the location of the walls and base relative to each other may change.

There are three main types of base.

Sometimes you can find houses where the base protrudes outwards relative to the wallprotruding plinth. Such a base requires the construction of a protective drain. Since this type of base is most susceptible to weathering, it is necessary to use quality materials for its finishing. It is advisable to use a base of this type if there is ground floor(basement), which requires additional insulation. Or a protruding plinth is the architect’s way of expressing his idea. A protruding base is not often used when building a house.

Sometimes the plinth is flush with a wall. This is also a fairly rarely used type of plinth for the construction of a country house.

In our case, for walls made of gas silicate blocks, brick the base is “recessed” relative to the walls -sinking base. Why did we choose this type of base?

With a sinking base, rainwater flowing down the walls does not reach the junction between the wall and the base and flows unhindered to the ground. In this case, the waterproofing layer, hidden by the wall protrusion, is protected from precipitation and external mechanical influences. In addition, the sinking base allows you to save money during its construction:

  • reducing costs for materials for the plinth,
  • reduction of construction time;
  • no need for a drainage device, as is the case with a protruding base.

It is optimal for the base to “sink” relative to the walls (taking into account the insulation and finishing performed) by at least 5 cm.

During the construction of our house, the basement took on the appearance of sinking after we insulated it with polystyrene foam and plastered the walls. When laying walls from blocks, the base protruded relative to the walls. In the photo on the left, when magnified, you can clearly see how during the laying of the walls, before their subsequent insulation and plastering, the brick base slightly “protrudes” beyond the walls.

Construction of a brick plinth on a strip monolithic reinforced concrete foundation for a house made of gas silicate blocks

So, your foundation has already been poured. It's time to start building the base.

First, listen to a short audio, and then we will describe in more detail all the steps of constructing the base:

1. Setting the corners when constructing the base.

When laying the base, as in the future, with , it is VERY IMPORTANT to set the corners correctly. Incorrectly set angles will lead, in the future, to incorrect wall laying. Incorrectly set corners of the plinth, if the deviation is insignificant, can be corrected when laying the first row of walls. However, you shouldn't count on this. It's better to do everything right at once.

The first thing to do is to initially lay out bricks in the four corners without mortar along the width of the future base. The bricks in the corners must be leveled.

Then, using a tape measure or using a strong thread (the thread should not stretch!) we very accurately measure the length and width of the sides of the future house, taking into account the laid out corners. It is also necessary to measure both diagonals. All measurements must be correspondingly equal: the length of one side must be equal to the length of the other side of the wall, etc.

If the measurements are equal, then you have done everything correctly and you can start laying the base. If some measurements do not match, this means that not all angles are equal to 90 degrees. and this urgently needs to be corrected. How can this be done?

It is necessary, by constantly rechecking all the measurements described above, by simultaneously moving the corner bricks along one of the sides (you didn’t use mortar when setting the corners, did you?), to find their optimal location in the corners, at which the measurements of the sides will respectively coincide or have no deviation more than 2-3 cm. With further laying, this difference can be eliminated.

2. Laying a brick base

The corners are set, all the measurements of the sides and diagonals coincide - it’s time to lay out the base. When laying the brick plinth we used. You can read more about this solution.

The width of the plinth depends on the material from which you plan to lay out the walls in the future. If the walls, like ours, are made of gas silicate sides (foam concrete) measuring 600 X 300 X 200, while the width of the masonry is 300 mm, and in the future you will only insulate the house with polystyrene foam followed by plastering, then the width of the plinth is one and a half bricks (380) as just the one you need. At the same time, do not forget that as a result of further insulation of the walls and finishing of the walls, the base should turn out to be sunken.

If, when laying walls from the same blocks, you plan to use brick for finishing after insulating the walls, then the base should be laid out two bricks wide (500).

In other words, to determine the width of the plinth, you first need to decide on the material of the walls and the material for further insulation and finishing of the walls and, if you consider it necessary, the plinth. Then make the necessary calculations.

How high should the base be? Even experienced builders sometimes disagree on this issue. It is believed that the height of the base should not be lower than the maximum height of snow cover for the region over the past fifty years. A base of such a minimum height will protect the walls from capillary moisture, thereby increasing the durability of your home.

As for the maximum height, everyone chooses for themselves. The height of the base of our house is 40cm.

If your house has a basement, then the height of the basement is usually 70-100cm. Houses with a high base look more elegant than houses with a low base or no base at all. Regardless of whether you have a basement or not, you should not forget that the height of the basement regulates the height of the floor of the first floor.

Now you know what you need to pay attention to when it comes time to decide on the height and width of the base for your future home.

3. Waterproofing the base

In order for the plinth to adequately fulfill one of its purposes - protecting the walls of the house from moisture, it is necessary to carefully waterproof the plinth. We used roofing felt folded in half as waterproofing. We talked about this in great detail in the article devoted to laying the first row of blocks in the section. Please note that the waterproofing layer should be below the level of the future floor, or vice versa: the future floor should be installed higher. What is the location of the waterproofing layer?

Today there are many materials that can be used to waterproof a basement. wide and varied, it all depends on the planned cost of construction. Because our goal is to build inexpensive house with our own hands, we were content with roofing felt, without losing at all in the quality of construction.

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4. How to preserve a brick base if construction of a house is temporarily stopped?

If you are building a house over more than one construction period and, due to lack of funds or the onset of cold weather, are forced to suspend construction at the stage of readiness of the brick plinth, you need to take care of its safety.