" Trees

Transplanting a plant is a traumatic operation, which is best performed during a period of natural dormancy, then it occurs practically “under anesthesia.” This especially applies to seedlings with bare roots.

Majority fruit trees better to plant on permanent place after the completion of the growing season - in the fall. Approximately, this is a month before the top layer of soil freezes. Some trees are best planted in the spring. Let's talk in more detail about the timing of planting fruit tree seedlings, how to fertilize and properly care for them.

Determining that a tree is ready for transplanting is very simple. The main criterion is that the tree has dropped half of its leaves.. They are used as a guide when planting apple trees, as well as all berry bushes.

The roots of bushes and trees do not have a dormant period and continue to grow in winter. Optimal temperature for rooting +4 o C and above. Considering that the ground does not freeze so quickly, root growth continues almost without a winter break.

Varieties of apple and pear trees with insufficient frost resistance, as well as all stone fruits(cherry, sweet cherry, plum, apricot and peach), it is better to plant in the spring. Moreover, it is necessary to do this as early as possible - before the moisture has left and the buds have not yet opened.

In any case, planting pits are prepared in advance - for spring planting, for example, from autumn (August - September). The minimum deadline for preparing pits is 2 weeks.

How to choose a seedling for planting in the Moscow region and other regions

In order not to throw money away and grow a truly productive fruit tree, you should approach the choice of seedlings with understanding and responsibility.

Selecting a seedling with an open root system

1. First of all, the variety must be zoned.
2. To increase the likelihood of purchasing the desired variety, purchase them from a specialized nursery, and not “from hand” by the road.
3. The roots must be no shorter than 25 centimeters, fresh and undamaged. The more branched thin roots, the higher the likelihood of success.
4. On the roots there should be no growths- This is a symptom of root cancer. The root cut should be white.
5. Attentively inspect the trunk for damage to the cortex.

When buying a seedling with leaves, carefully tear them off - the seedling will not lose moisture.

Wrap the roots in several layers of damp burlap or newspaper. If the seedling does dry out, immerse it in water for a day or two until the bark regains its fresh appearance.

You can treat the roots with stimulants before planting.(Kornevin or Heteroauxin) according to the instructions.

Make sure that the roots are not damaged. These areas will probably rot - they must be carefully removed to the healthy part.

Selecting a seedling in a container

Such planting material expensive. If you choose it correctly, you can plant it at any time convenient for you. Survival is guaranteed...

How not to make a mistake

The easiest way to check how long a tree has been growing in a container is to carefully lift the plant by the root part. If the earthen ball is removed along with the roots, you need to buy it - the seedling “lives” in the container for a long time.

Additionally, it will help you make sure you make the right choice. root growing through a hole in the bottom of the container.

When choosing a container seedling, of the two, take the younger one. Its roots were probably not trimmed before being planted in a pot for sale.

The tree is installed in a prepared planting hole without disturbing the integrity of the earth clod. Water and cover with prepared soil mixture without burying the seedling.

Rules for planting seedlings in a garden plot at different times of the year?

Choosing a place to plant a fruit tree is done once and for all; success or disappointment depends on this choice. If the place turns out to be unsuitable for a fruit tree, after a few years it will be impossible to correct the mistake.

Choose a sunny place for planting, protected from the wind.. The proximity of groundwater is unacceptable - a tree can develop successfully for 5-7 years, and when its roots reach the aquifer, it will die from decay. At this age, replanting a tree is already incredibly difficult.

Preparatory activities

Even the choice of soil is not such a critical condition for planting a fruit tree. By improving the soil structure and proper fertilizing Almost any area is suitable for gardening.

Preparing the planting pit

Even in the case of fertile black soil, It is necessary to start planting a tree with preparation landing pit . It must be dug up at least a month before planting the seedling. During this time, the dug up soil will have time to compact. This is a factor of extraordinary importance - there will be no problems with the correct deepening of the root collar of the seedling.

Root collar - where is it?

It would be useful to clarify what this “root collar” is. Often, inexperienced gardeners mistake the grafting site for the root collar, and as a result, bury the seedling an extra 10 centimeters. In fact, this is the area where the trunk meets the root. At this point, the dark color of the root turns into the lighter bark of the trunk.

The most common mistake is planting in a fresh hole. Strictly speaking, it’s not the pit itself that matters. Until the ground subsides, it is very difficult to properly deepen the root collar of a seedling. It is known that it can neither be buried nor exposed - the tree will not be able to develop normally in both cases.

After planting, the seedling should not lack nutrients, at least until it takes root. At this stage, very often, with the best of intentions, gardeners “overfeed” seedlings with fertilizers.

It is especially dangerous for young plants to add fresh organic matter to the pit and add too much a large number of mineral fertilizers. These two extremes act equally depressing on soil microorganisms, namely they help the roots of the seedling to absorb nutrients from the soil and air.

1. For a standard 1-2 year old seedling it is necessary dig a hole approximately 80x80 centimeters in size and the same depth. When digging a hole, fold the upper, more fertile layer separately from the lower one. Remove all stones and roots of perennial weeds. The bottom of the hole must be dug up using the bayonet of a shovel.
2. To the bottom of the pit for improvement water balance preferably sprinkle last year's leaves, house debris, wood ash . This will not only provide good drainage, but also excellent additional feeding tree.
3. Into the pit add 2 buckets of compost or humus, and proceed as follows.
4. One bucket is mixed with the more fertile soil of the upper layer and poured into the bottom of the hole. You plant a seedling on this mound, straighten its roots and pour the second part of the compost directly onto the roots. At the same time, shake the seedling so that there are no air voids left unfilled with soil.
5. I water it well t (minimum 2 buckets of water).
6. The pit is filled to the top. For this, only the top fertile layer is used.
7. From the bottom layer of the earth form a root hole around trunk circle.
8. Water again into the formed hole and cover it with mulch(peat, rotten sawdust, leaves, wood chips), this will not only retain water, but will also prevent the formation of a dense crust.

When planting, it is better to deepen the root collar insufficiently. This option can be easily corrected by adding soil to the tree trunk circle.

Scheme for planting fruit trees and shrubs

Tree planting density depends not only on the species, but also on:

• type of seedling rootstock,
• method of further formation,
• features of the site layout.

The most common mistake novice gardeners make is planting too tightly.. It is very difficult to discern trees of at least 2.5 meters in height in the twigs of one-year-old seedlings after 10 years. The recommended planting scheme for shrubs and trees is given below.

and pears on vigorous rootstocks are placed at a distance of 5 meters, medium-growing ones - 3.5-4 meters, dwarf ones - 2.5-3 meters. Columnar forms can be planted even after 0.5 meters in a row.

No less distance should be laid when planting seedlings near the house, this especially applies to tall forms of fruit trees, and especially pay close attention to the location— over time it will be a 10-meter spreading tree.

To rationally use the area between the seedlings, plant currant bushes between the rows for now (in 10 years you will still have to uproot them - the bush will grow old) or garden strawberries.

Caring for a newly planted tree in spring and autumn

After planting a young tree, in addition to feeding the seedling, it must be given proper follow-up care. The first time after planting, seedlings most need watering. Among experienced gardeners The old school is of the opinion that seedlings need watering for 2 years, even if they have taken root successfully. Even trees planted in autumn need to be watered until frost.. Only then will the tree grow strong and healthy.

No matter how great the desire is to try the harvest from a young tree, the first flowers must be removed. This especially applies to the first year after planting, otherwise the tree will devote all its strength to the first few fruits, and root system and will not be able to grow a developed crown.

In addition to watering, a young tree requires preventive measures to protect against pests and fungal diseases. Do not ignore them during each garden treatment. Loss of branches and leaves from pests or disease can be critical for a young tree.

Preparing young trees for winter includes:

• mulching trunk circle,
• whitewashing the trunk for the prevention of sun and frosty winter burns,
• protection against rodents and hares.

The mulch layer must cover the tree trunk circle not only in summer period to retain moisture in the root zone. Mulch is especially necessary in autumn-winter period. Even in the conditions of the central zone and the Moscow region, the roots of a tree or shrub seedling may suffer from freezing, especially if the snow cover is insignificant.

Fertilizers and top dressing for fruit trees

A well-filled planting hole provides nutrition to the planted tree for 2 years. In practice, it only needs watering.

Fertilizing the garden is carried out according to the established rule:

1. in the spring- nitrogen and organic fertilizers,
2. in autumn- potassium and phosphorus.

Fertilizers are usually applied to tree trunks in early spring (1) or autumn (2).

Fertilizers are applied to the root zone at the rate of 1 hectare of garden:

• organic 300-500 kg (every 2-3 years),
• inorganic N:P:K in proportions 1.5:1:0.6 (calculated per kg of chemically pure substance).

In addition to root fertilizing, gardeners often practice foliar fertilizing. In this case, so-called “tank mixtures” are used - joint solutions chemicals, for example, against pests and a complex of foliar fertilizers.

Foliar fertilizing, unlike root fertilizing, has an effect almost instantly. They are absorbed through the surface of the leaves garden plant in just 4 hours. This process is especially active on the underside of the leaf.

Another “plus” of this processing— fertilizer consumption is minimal. For example, for nitrogen fertilizing, prepare a solution of 1 tablespoon of nitrate per 1 bucket of water.

The only inconvenience is that it cannot be processed immediately before rain.

Another important point, it is better to “underfeed” the garden with any fertilizers...

Conclusion

The optimal time for planting fruit trees depends on many factors:

• Depending on the climatic conditions of your region.
• From the winter hardiness of the seedling.
• Depending on the type of seedling - container or bare root.

In order not to get confused, Ukrainian gardeners have an old rule, which is all the more mandatory for colder regions- All stone fruits are planted in the spring, pome fruits - in the fall.

Fruit trees in the same place can grow and bear fruit for ten or more years. I would like to immediately note that tree planting can be done both in autumn and in spring, the main thing in this matter is proper planting. After all, the mistakes that you may make at the beginning will be very difficult to correct in the future, not to mention the fact that some of them are completely impossible to correct.

To avoid these errors, you need to:

1) Prepare the soil well;

2) Place the plants correctly on the site;

3) Choose varieties that are more suitable for your area;

4) Follow all the rules necessary for planting tree seedlings;

5) Provide timely care for seedlings after planting;

For planting fruit trees, an area with a slope of no more than 5-8°, while protected from the wind, is best suited.

It is not recommended to plant in a closed pit (saucer), regardless of whether you plant them in autumn or spring. This is explained by the fact that cold air stagnates in them, which is especially dangerous during spring frosts (during the flowering period).

Fruit plants can grow best where tree species grow (maple, oak, ash).

An important condition when choosing the most suitable site is the groundwater level. For example, when planting pome trees (pears, apple trees), groundwater should be no closer than 2-2.5 m from the surface layer of soil, and in the case of cherries or plums, this distance should be at least 1.5 - 2 m.

If the groundwater is above this distance, the development process will be very weak, namely, the annual growth (if planting was done in the fall) will not have time to ripen and will simply freeze out during winter frosts. It is not uncommon for the tops of trees to dry out.

If it is impossible to drain the area for planting, it is recommended to plant tree seedlings on mounds with a height of 40-50 cm and a width of 2-3 m. For mounds, it is necessary to use the top layer of soil, which is thoroughly cultivated and fertilized.

For an apple tree, light chernozem, deep turfy and sandy loam soil is best, and for a pear - loose loamy, nutritious soil, for plums - fertilized clayey soil, provided with moisture, for cherries - light sandy loam.

Determining the soil in the garden plot. Depending on the mechanical composition, soils can be divided into clayey, silty loams, sandy loams, sandy loams, sandy loams, etc.

Light soil usually contains slightly less nutrients than heavy soil.

Soil analysis is carried out in special agrochemical laboratories at MTS. But in order to determine the mechanical composition of the soil summer cottage, you can use this table:

Soils	The sensation of rubbing soil between the fingers and the action of a knife	View through a magnifying glass	Rolling a cord from moistened soil
Clayey	Fine homogeneous powder. The grains of coarse sand do not scratch the skin of your fingers. When cutting with a penknife, you can’t hear the crunch of sand particles	There are no large sand grains	They give you a long cord
Silty loams (based on the amount of silt they are divided into light, medium and heavy)	When cut with a knife, it gives a smooth surface.	A small amount of sand	They don't give you a long cord
Sandy loams (based on sand content can be light, medium and heavy)	When rubbed, a large amount of sand is clearly visible. The knife makes a characteristic creaking sound	—	They provide a very fragile cord (it crumbles)
Sandy loam	Sandy particles predominate with a small admixture of clayey		Can't roll up the cord
Sandy	Composed almost exclusively of sand grains

How to prepare a site when planting trees in the fall?

Typically, fruit trees are planted in holes, but in order to improve the growth and development of the plant, before planting the soil must be completely tilled (dug) to a depth of 40-60 cm. In cases with podzolic soil, this depth must be reduced.

If planting will be done in the fall, then it is best to prepare the pits in spring period, and if in the spring - in the autumn.

The holes to be dug should have a round shape with steep walls.

Planting trees in autumn

When planting trees, both in autumn and spring, the distance between pear and apple trees should be 6x6 m or 5x6 m, and in the case of plum and cherry - 3x4 m.

The planting itself must be taken responsibly. As was already said at the beginning, largely from correct landing and the success of establishment, growth and, most importantly, fruiting will depend.

It is also necessary to remember that the younger the seedling, the easier it will be to plant. Also, young seedlings take root much better.

Many gardeners, along with vigorous plants, also plant dwarf varieties.

For those who don't know - dwarf trees These are plants grafted on rootstocks that have weak growth.

For example, apple trees that are grafted onto weak-growing rootstocks receive the conventional name - dwarf, differing both in growth vigor and in some other characteristics.

Unlike apple trees that were grafted onto a vigorous rootstock, in which the period of growth and development lasts from 70-80 years, dwarf apple trees can grow for 20-25 years.

But dwarf species have their own advantages. They can bear fruit as early as 3-4 years (some varieties even earlier), compared to vigorous-growing ones, in which fruiting begins at 6-12 years.

Dwarf species are more productive, the fruits are larger and better colored. On the site, they can be placed at a distance of 3x3 m, which means that, compared to vigorous-growing ones, twice as many of them can be planted on the same area, and therefore the yield doubles.

It is necessary to plant and care for dwarf species in the same way as with ordinary trees.

Landing dates . IN middle lane our country, it is best to plant in early spring, that is, until the seedlings began to bud. But when planting trees in the fall, you can also get very good results.

IN autumn period planting can be done in early October, that is, 3-4 weeks before the onset of frost.

How to prepare seedlings for planting?

Preparing a seedling for planting. The dashes show where branches and roots should be trimmed

The first thing we need to do is to carefully examine the roots of the seedling, and if diseased, dried, broken and damaged parts are found, we carefully cut them out using a garden knife.

The ends of healthy roots also need to be slightly trimmed (trimmed).
Remember, the longer and better branched the roots, the better the seedling will take root and will develop better in the future.

Each branch of the seedling crown is shortened by approximately 1/3 of its length. When shortening branches, we will need to trim them to the so-called external (outer) bud. When carrying out this procedure, the side shoots will begin to develop to the sides, and therefore the crown of the tree will not thicken.

Pruning of branches can be done both before and after planting.

In the center of the board there should be a triangular cutout to a depth of 4 cm. There should be similar cutouts at both ends of the board, at a distance of 75 cm from the middle one.

Landing board

Fruit tree planting scheme

Planting a fruit tree: 1 - the planting board with the middle cutout is applied to the stake and a short peg is installed to each of the outer cutouts; 2 - take away the planting board, leaving the pegs in place, and draw a circle around the stake that determines the size of the width of the pit; 3 - dig a hole to the required depth, folding the top and bottom layers of soil separately along the sides of the hole; 4 - the landing board is applied to the peg with the end cutouts and a pointed stake is driven into the bottom of the hole at the middle cutout; 5 - the hole is filled with the top layer of soil thrown out when digging the hole, forming a mound around the stake, which is firmly trampled down with the foot; 6 - lower the seedling into the hole, spreading its roots evenly over the surface of the mound, the roots are covered with nutritious soil, which is gradually compacted, filling the voids formed around the roots (the root collar of the seedling should be 5-7 cm above the soil surface); 7 - after filling the hole, the seedling is lightly tied to a stake, and after the soil settles in the hole, a tighter tie is made a second time. The height of the stake should not be higher than the first lower branch of the seedling; 8 - a hole (bowl) is made, each tree is watered, and when the water is absorbed into the soil, the surface of the hole is mulched (shaded) with a layer of manure, humus, peat, etc.

How to protect your garden from the wind?

A necessary condition for the successful growth, development and productivity of trees is also protection from winds. Garden protection plantings must be planted simultaneously with planting fruit plants, and even better if you do this 2-3 years before planting.

It is necessary to arrange garden protective plantings approximately according to the scheme shown in the figure below. In addition to planting garden protective plantings, we will also need to fence our area.

Approximate diagrams for constructing garden fences

In cases of collective garden plots, garden protective plantings may not be needed in individual areas. In such a situation, your garden area can be protected from the wind by plants planted along the road, alley or along the border of the land plot.

It is also necessary to remember that the species of garden-protective plants used must be resistant to the climatic conditions of your region, durable, fast-growing and with a fairly dense (not spreading) crown.

They should not produce excessive root shoots, and it is very important to have diseases and pests in common with fruit trees

How to care for a young garden?

For young garden constant and careful care is required. In the case of personal and collective garden plots, some vegetables (potatoes, strawberries, etc.) are also grown between the rows, and some gardeners even grow currants and gooseberries. But under no circumstances should you sow or plant raspberries, tobacco, sunflowers, or corn in the inter-row spaces.

These plants can have negative effects on fruit trees.

In a plot with apple trees, row spacing can be used for 10-15 years, and with cherries or plums - 7-8 years.

But at the same time, we must also not forget that interrow crops should not occupy tree trunk circles.

The width of the trunk circle depends on the age of the plant itself. In the first 2 years after planting, the width of the tree trunk circles should be about 2 meters, and every 2 years the width of the circles increases by 0.5 m.

It is also necessary to remember that the tree trunk circles during the entire period of growth and development of the plant must be in a loose state and also cleared of weeds.

You will need to loosen the soil 3-4 times.

The last loosening can be done in early August.

After each watering or rainfall, the soil must be loosened to a depth of about 5 cm.

To mulch the tree trunk circle, you can use peat or humus (in a thin layer).

In autumn, the tree trunk circles need to be dug up (to a depth of 10-15 cm), but at the same time you will need to try not to damage the roots, which is especially important near the trunk.

In the early spring, we dig up the tree trunk circles again, but this time to a slightly shallower depth.

In areas where fruit trees receive insufficient moisture, they will need good watering in the first years after planting.

Throughout the spring period and the first half of summer, trees require watering 3-4 times. In dry areas, the amount of watering is doubled.

For one young tree, one watering will require from 2 to 4 buckets of water (depending on the amount of precipitation). As the age of the tree increases, the watering rate also increases.

How to care for a fruit-bearing garden?

Soil care . Soil in the trunk circle fruit tree, as well as in row strips, in early spring and autumn (after leaf fall), it is necessary to dig up using a shovel or garden fork for this purpose.

But at the same time, you also need to try not to damage or expose the root system. In early spring, before digging, it is necessary to apply mineral and organic fertilizers.

Watering . The first watering is carried out in the spring, that is, before the buds bloom on the trees. The second is 12-15 days after the end of the flowering period. The third is 15-20 days before the harvest period. During periods of low rainfall, watering is also necessary in the fall.

There are several ways to water trees: water into circular grooves (grooves) made around the circumference of the tree trunk, or into holes that can be punched with a crowbar.

After the water has been absorbed and the soil has dried out somewhat, we loosen it and shade it with manure, humus, and peat.

How to thin out tree crowns? As the crown grows, the tree becomes denser. In this regard (in the thickened crown) branches and leaves solar lighting obtained in insufficient quantities, the consequences of which may be poor ripening and insufficient coloring of the fruit.

Diseases and pests in a thickened crown can cause sensitive damage. Therefore, we will need to remove unnecessary branches.

The crowns are thinned out in the fall (after leaf fall) or early spring (before the start of the sap flow period).

Thinning is carried out as follows: first we need to cut out all shrunken, diseased or frost-damaged branches.

Then we begin to remove old branches that have stopped bearing fruit. Next, we cut off the broken branches (below the break point, to a healthy place).

If there are two branches that interfere with each other’s development, then we remove or shorten the less valuable one.

It is also necessary to cut out the branches that grow inside the crown, as well as those that thicken it.

We will need to remove the cut branches from garden plot and burn it.

A sharp garden saw can serve as a tool for pruning trees: we smooth the edges of the wounded area with a garden knife and coat them with putty, but you can also paint them over with paint (ocher on natural drying oil).

The time is approaching autumn planting seedlings of fruit trees and berry bushes. Let us recall some important rules for selecting and planting seedlings. When choosing seedlings, pay attention to the quality of the grafting: the scion and rootstock must be the same in diameter; one should not be allowed to be thicker and the other thinner. At the grafting site there may be a scar - a seam, but not an influx; a seedling with an influx can take root normally, but after a year or two it will rot and break at the grafting site.

Planting seedlings in the fall begins with the selection of seedlings. It is very important to choose a seedling with a well-preserved root system. Small fibrous roots are of greatest importance; they feed the plant. Thick tap roots will grow if the fibrous roots of a small plant begin to work immediately after planting.

Do not try to buy perennial seedlings. Often one- to two-year-olds get along better than three-year-olds and then outstrip them in development.

Carefully examine how many live buds remain on the grafted shoot; there should be at least four of them. Leaves, if they are on the seedling, must be removed immediately. A competent gardener should remove the leaves before digging up a seedling. They evaporate moisture from the plant cells and weaken it, reducing its survival rate.

You should also pay attention to the health of the plant. There should be no growths or lumps on the roots; the bark of the seedling should be even, smooth, without protruding scales or colored spots. Inspect the raspberry cuttings especially carefully; recently, even nurseries often sell raspberry planting material with purple spots on the stems.

Choosing a landing site

Choose a place to plant seedlings in the fall seriously - this will last for several decades. Not a single fruit tree and not a single berry bush will not grow well in the shade. Consider how your trees will grow over time and whether they will create shading for the entire area. If your garden is in a lowland, where the groundwater rises quite high in the spring, it is better not to dig planting holes, but to plant the plants on mounds without deepening the roots. If it turns out that the roots of the plant will be flooded for some time, it may not die, but it will not bear fruit, because it will spend all its energy on the annual regrowth of roots that died during flooding.

Preparing planting holes

It is unacceptable to place manure in the planting holes. They are filled with well-rotted compost and humus. On acidic soils humus is mixed with lime. It is good to add double superphosphate to the hole. But in no case should you place urea in the planting hole in the fall, ammonium nitrate or other nitrogen fertilizers. Can be mixed with soil liter jar ash.

Planting holes are prepared 3-4 days in advance, the soil is squeezed well so that it settles. If this is not done, after planting the plant, the soil in the hole will settle; with watering and rain, additional soil will wash into the hole and the tree will be re-buried. This is also common cause poor seedling growth in the first years and long absence fruiting. Raspberries, like fruit trees, do not like deepening. But gooseberries or currants can be planted deeper, the covered part of the stem will be overgrown with roots, and the plant will only benefit from this.

Planting and caring for seedlings

After planting any seedling, be it raspberries or currants, apple trees or cherries, it needs to be watered very generously, but not with cold water, but with settled water at a temperature environment. Watering is required not only to obtain moisture, but for better settling of soil particles and their adhesion to the roots; where air remains, the roots will not grow and begin to nourish the plant.

If your garden is on heavy clay soils, the hole must definitely be made with a drainage layer: put broken bricks, shards, scraps of boards, pebbles, and wood chips at the bottom.

When planting in autumn, it is better not to prune, pinch, or shorten the seedling. You will do this in early spring, when it becomes clear how the winter went and whether some of the buds died. Sometimes it is recommended to leave three buds on the main trunk. But if you do this in the fall, not everyone can survive until spring, and initially the plant will have to be formed incorrectly.

If you bought seedlings of apple, cherry or other fruit trees with a closed root system, that is, in a plastic container, there are some special features when planting.

Firstly, such seedlings can be transplanted to a permanent place at any time (of course, it is better to exclude hot July days). In addition, the transplant can be performed at any age, starting from 6 months. Such young plants will develop very quickly and begin to bear fruit 1-2 years earlier than those planted with damaged roots. The leaves on these seedlings are not torn off when transplanting. On the day of transplantation, watering containers is not recommended, since high humidity When removing the container from the roots, you can disturb the soil lump. Watering is carried out the day before planting. For planting, a planting hole is prepared no later than a week in advance, filled with humus or compost, and the bulk soil is strongly compacted (possible by watering two or three times). To plant a seedling, make a hole with a depth slightly greater than the height of the container and water it well. The container is carefully unfolded or cut, trying not to shed or displace the soil of the root ball. The lump of earth with the seedling is carefully placed in the watered hole, covered with soil and watered again. After the water has been absorbed, mulch the tree trunk circle with sawdust, peat chips or simply mown grass.

Autumn is a fertile time for a gardener - it is still warm, but there is no summer heat and, if there is no rain, you can do a lot in the garden that was not possible in the summer. One of these important activities is planting trees in the fall.

In the middle zone, autumn planting of trees, both fruit and ornamental, is successful, since the natural conditions at this time are favorable for plant replanting

1. Outflow of nutrients from branches to roots. Roots grow and leaves fall.

2. The soil contains a lot of moisture necessary for plant growth.

3. The soil remains warm for a long time. Its temperature allows the roots to grow for a long time.

As a result, the seedlings have time to take root and overwinter safely, and in the spring they begin the growing season on time, without wasting time on establishment.

A few more points to the plus of autumn planting of trees and shrubs.

• Large selection of planting material on the market. In the spring they sell the remains of the autumn trade.
• Availability of free time for the gardener. The autumn planting period is longer than the spring one.

How to choose a seedling

Criteria for choosing a seedling: the more powerful the roots (number, length, fibrousness) and the smaller the upper part of the plant, the greater the likelihood of its successful establishment and further growth

• If we plant plants with an open root system, it is advisable to choose 1-2 year old seedlings. They are easier to dig up without damaging the root system.
• Make sure the roots are not cut off.
• The leaves are “scraped”, that is, removed. If left, they will draw moisture from the plant, drying it out.
• The wood is mature, not grassy, ​​green

What's good to plant in the fall?

By the way, the vast majority of shrubs need to be planted in the fall.

• Fruit bushes such as honeysuckle, currants, and gooseberries are cold-resistant, take root well, and in the spring they begin the growing season very early and you simply may not have time to plant them.
• A remontant raspberries and it is generally recommended to plant in the most late dates- End of october.
• Planting of shrubs and plants with a closed root system (growing in containers) can be extended until the first frosts - usually they occur during the November holidays.
• Apple trees, especially those grafted onto clonal rootstocks, tolerate autumn planting and subsequent overwintering well.
• Conifers are replanted in the fall

Disadvantages of autumn planting

What could be the disadvantages of autumn tree planting? So, about the cons.

1. They planted it late and the seedling did not have time to take root and, as a result, did not survive the winter well.

2. You yourself need to take care of the safety of the tree trunk from the winter invasion of rodents.

How to avoid losses during autumn planting

• Firstly, we try to adhere to calendar planting dates. In central Russia, digging up plants in nurseries according to technology should begin on September 20, after the beginning of leaf fall. By this time, the wood of the trunk and branches will already be mature and ready for overwintering. Seedlings dug up before this time will have unfallen leaves and immature wood and may be severely damaged by frost.

Thus optimal time for autumn planting work will be from September 20 until mid-late October

Apple trees on clonal rootstocks take root faster than on seed ones. This is due to the presence of a larger number of small roots in clonal rootstocks.

• Secondly, you need to know that different cultures take root in different ways. Stone fruits need more time for this than pome fruits. And among the pome trees, the pear tree takes longer to root than the apple tree.

Therefore, we plant pears and all stone fruits (cherries, plums, sweet cherries, etc.) early in the fall, late landings not for them.

How to plant

We make the following planting holes:

• for apple and pear trees measuring approximately 60x60x80 cm,
• cherries, plums, cherry plums, sweet cherries 40x40x60 cm,
• fruit bushes 40x40x40 cm.

The fertilizers that we will add are mixed with the entire volume of soil for the planting hole. And when planting, we will add soil without fertilizers to the roots of the plants.

When filling the roots, we compact the soil slightly with our feet.

Do not add nitrogen to the planting hole! We'll add it in the spring.

An important point to pay attention to when planting trees on seed rootstocks is where the root collar is located.

Root collar - the place where the roots pass into the stem of the plant

What is the easiest way to identify it? At this point, the color of the bark changes: from greenish to brown.

The deepening of the root collar threatens to preheat and rot the bark and wood. Therefore, we carefully monitor that after watering and settling of the soil, the root collar of fruit and ornamental trees grafted onto the seed rootstock was at soil surface level.

Only on light sandy soils is sometimes a slight deepening possible, about 5-7 cm.

Plants grafted onto vegetatively propagated (clonal) rootstocks can be planted deep down to the grafting itself, leaving 5-7 cm to it.

Having planted trees, they must be

• water at the rate of 1-2 buckets per plant, if you planted shrubs, then you can use 1 bucket to water 2-3 plants;
• the soil around is mulched, and when taking into account autumn planting, and especially if your soil is sandy, an additional layer of mulch is also covered with pieces of cardboard to reduce severe autumn-winter freezing;
• The stem of the planted tree must be protected from the winter invasion of hungry rodents. To do this, it is wrapped various materials, permeable to air: fine mesh, nylon stockings.

We are waiting until spring.

How to properly bury seedlings before spring

If for some reason optimal timing Autumn planting has passed and there is a danger that our plants will not have time to take root before winter, then in this case we send them to the trenches for the winter.

Crops such as cherries, cherries, cherry plums, plums, and pears are usually added in for the winter. It would be more reliable to postpone their planting in a permanent place until spring.

• In a high place protected from the wind, not in a lowland - otherwise meltwater will flood in the spring, dig trenches 60-50 cm deep and 50 cm wide.
• Seedlings are placed in trenches at an angle of 45 degrees, I place them so that the tops “look” to the south - this technique will help avoid sunburn in the spring.
• The seedlings in the trench are covered a quarter full of soil and watered.
• After established frosts, they are finally covered with soil 20-25 cm above the root collar.
• A groove is made around the trench to drain water and poison against mice is laid out.
• In the spring, they try to remove buried trees from such storage as early as possible, in order to avoid the bark on the trunks from becoming warm, and plant them in a permanent place.

Here are some considerations for fall tree planting. We are glad that our advice helped you cope with such important gardening work as planting trees in the fall.

Having learned about the benefits of planting seedlings in autumn, I am sure that the purchased tree will take root, and money and labor will not be wasted.

Of course, young trees can be planted not only in autumn. Planting time depends on the weather, the condition and age of the seedling, and the climate in a particular region. Each season has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Rooting of a seedling in the soil is a natural process that occurs in any season except winter frosts when the ground freezes. For survival and wellness plants are influenced by related factors.

1. Autumn is a traditional time for garden renewal and replenishment of fruit trees. During this period, nurseries export young trees for sale at a reasonable price. Once at a specialized fair, a gardener can purchase healthy planting material, get advice from a specialist, see the fruits (after all, this is when they ripen), and get acquainted with varietal characteristics. The roots of seedlings purchased in the fall are fresh and healthy.
2. The work will not be labor-intensive. For the tree you only need to prepare a hole, and watering will be provided by autumn moisture, cool, sunny weather will be very comfortable. Despite the slowdown in metabolism in anticipation of the dormant period, the roots young plant continue to develop until the soil cools to +4 degrees. From the moment of planting until this time, the seedling has time to grow additional roots to absorb moisture and nutrients. This will give the tree a significant advantage over those planted in the spring - the autumn seedling will continue to actively develop two to three weeks earlier than its spring counterparts.
3. There is a lot of work on the site in spring. By planting trees in the fall, the gardener will free up valuable spring days for other tasks.

The further south the region is, the greater the advantage of planting seedlings in autumn: the ground will not freeze early and deeply, and the trees will not be in danger of dying or freezing.

Possible disadvantages

1. If the soil freezes early, the seedling may die.
2. Strong winds and ice freezing on the branches and trunk can damage a fragile tree.
3. The trunks of young trees often become food for hares and rodents.
4. If a seedling is left to spend the winter in an uninhabited dacha, there is a risk that it will be stolen.

• cherries;
• peach;
• plums;
• almonds;
• pears;
• apple trees

If someone decides to adapt a plant from a warmer region to their plot, then autumn planting is also not recommended.

Which plants will tolerate autumn planting well?

Autumn planting would be ideal for frost-resistant varieties of fruit trees.

Timing for planting trees in autumn

October - best month for planting seedlings. If the gardener comes across good planting material, then it can be planted at the end of September and early November, if there is no frost.

Deadlines by region:

• middle zone - second half of September - first half of October;
• northern regions - all September;
• southern regions - October and the first half of November.

It is important to choose the time of planting - the procedure is performed when the plant has entered a dormant period, all the leaves have turned yellow and fallen off. Plants dug up before leaf fall have immature shoots. Such trees are usually susceptible to freezing.

Planting a young tree covered with leaves can result in the seedling drying out: there is a strong loss of moisture through the leaves.

When the deadlines have passed

If the desired seedling is found after the desired time for planting, there is lingering slush or frost has begun, the tree can be saved until spring.

Methods for storing seedlings:

• room in the basement;
• dropping;
• storage in snow.

If there is a cellar where the temperature is stable within 0-10 degrees, then the seedling can be placed in a bucket with moistened sawdust or peat and stored in the basement. From time to time the sawdust needs to be moistened (once every 7-10 days).

If there is no basement and the weather promises heavy snowfalls, the plant is packaged and stored in a snowdrift.

Preparing for landing

Planting holes of the following size are prepared for seedlings:

• pear and apple tree - 1.2 x 0.8 m;
• cherry and plum - 1.0 x 0.6 m.

To prevent overmoistening, expanded clay will be placed at the bottom of the pit.

The soil mixture consists of:

• 3 parts rotted manure;
• 2 parts of fertile land;
• 1 part plain garden soil.

When preparing the mixture, the use of bird droppings is not recommended; other fertilizers must be applied with caution so as not to burn the roots. If any seedling is planted in such a mixture, in the first year you can do without fertilizing.

Sequence of actions when landing:

1. The bottom of the planting pit is covered with an even layer of expanded clay.
2. Fill in a third of the prepared soil mixture, level it and water it.
3. Pour another portion of the mixture into a mound and spread the roots over it.
4. An obligatory step is checking the level of the root collar: it must be exactly level with the soil surface. Deepening of the neck leads to a lack of fruiting. A raised neck is the cause of future exposure and drying out of the roots.
5. Refilling and leveling the remaining soil.
6. Watering and decorating the tree trunk circle, mulching.

An important difference between autumn planting is that the roots of the seedling are not shortened, as is customary to do in the spring. Only dried or broken edges can be cut off. Good survival rate is facilitated by maintaining the orientation of the seedling relative to the cardinal directions.