The base of the house requires reliable protection from moisture penetration, getting wet, exposure to sunlight and mechanical damage. To obtain a solid foundation and uniform weight load, various facing materials are used. In this article, we will look in detail at what to cover the basement of a house with and provide characteristics of the materials, their advantages and disadvantages.

Types of basement structures

The most reliable type is a recessed base. Its device perfectly protects the structure from mechanical and atmospheric damage, and there is no need to construct a drain for its installation. The sunken view looks great and complements the building.

A protruding base is installed in frame houses with thin walls. This type requires a drainage device in order to remove precipitation from the foundation as much as possible.

An important point in the design of the base is its waterproofing. Before choosing a facing material, you should consider the following points:

• brickwork extends the basement structure;
• Insulation is placed inside the frame, which reduces heat loss;
• the frame system allows you to carry out any renovation work Anytime;

The main purpose of plinth cladding is:

• minimize the negative impact of precipitation, humidity, temperature changes and direct sunlight on the foundation of the house;
• preventing dirt from entering the walls of the house, chemical substances, which can cause destructive processes in the foundation;
• protecting the foundation from the formation of mold, stains, mildew and insects;

Full characteristics of the facing material

Cladding the basement of a house and which material is better to choose, this question arises for every owner country house. We suggest considering popular materials for finishing the foundation.

Finishing with decorative plaster

Plaster is used for any type of structure. This mixture has good contact with other building materials. The advantage of plastering is:

• high vapor permeability;
• responds well to temperature changes;
• easy to repair;
• easy to apply to the surface;
• the ability to combine with other materials;
• affordable price.

• short operational period;
• requires constant updating of the coating (painting);
• If dirt gets on the surface, it may be difficult to wash it out.

The finishing process consists of simple steps:

• before plastering, insulate and level the surface;
• fix the plaster tiles;
• use paint that is resistant to frost and moisture;

The photo shows a plastered facade

Siding finishing

To cover the base, siding panels designed for this work are used. The advantage of such a facade is:

• high strength and reliability, the panel is able to protect the entire surface;
• easy to care for, can be easily washed;
• resistant to impacts and damage;
• panels do not fade in the sun;
• Installation of panels is possible on any type of foundation;
• Replacing parts will not cause unnecessary trouble.

Disadvantages include:

• installation will take a lot of time and effort;
• the cost of finishing material is higher due to installation additional elements(frame, slats);
• the material is highly flammable.

The façade should be covered with siding after:

• installation of sheathing;
• perform high-quality sealing of all connections;
• perform and take into account the dimensions of the gaps.

For your information. Recently, manufacturers have begun to produce brick-like panels. This finish looks very beautiful and original. The product resembles a stone, sometimes it is even difficult to distinguish it. This similarity is achieved by the fact that during the production of siding panels, a cast is made that clearly conveys the entire structure and roughness of the stone. The photo shows a panel element made from rubble stone.

Facade finishing using stone

Cladding the foundation of a house with artificial stone is the best and inexpensive option. The tiled facade of the house has the following advantages:

• large selection of shapes, textures and color palette products;
• high strength of the product;
• long term operation;
• easy to repair;
• easy installation.

Flaws artificial stone:

• laying the material is possible only at positive temperatures;
• The work is quite labor-intensive and time-consuming.

Natural stone for cladding the façade will increase the cost of purchasing materials. It is worth noting that manufacturers have learned to produce artificial stone, appearance which is no different and completely resembles the structure of the natural one. The facade using it looks natural and natural. The photo shows a stone facade

Not everyone can do stone laying on their own. As a rule, specialists are hired for such work.

Using clinker tiles

Cladding the base with clinker tiles will cost almost the same as brickwork. This material has a number of advantages:

• the manufacturer produces ready-made corners, external and internal elements;
• products are easily fixed to the foundation;
• due to its light weight, the façade experiences little load;
• diversity decorative covering;
• tiles do not require additional finishing;
• long service life;
• provides reliable protection to the foundation;
• the tiles are easy to clean when dirty;
• has high resistance to mechanical damage and shock;
• large selection of color palette.

For information! Clinker tiles can give an interesting appearance to the facade of a private house. If the products are installed correctly, it is difficult to distinguish them from natural stone.

It is worth noting that clinker tiles allow for additional decoration of walls and even corners of the building. The material matches perfectly with the tiles and gives the house an attractive appearance.

When installing it, use a special glue that is resistant to freezing. How to glue tiles regular tile, the only thing is there is a small nuance, the ground level is variable along the entire perimeter of the building. Before installation, it is necessary to seal the seams with jointing mortar.

The photo shows the façade, finished with clinker tiles

For information! Clinker tiles combine well and get along with other building materials.

Corrugated sheet

The most economical option for cladding the facade of a building is the use of corrugated sheets. To perform the work, galvanized or polymer-coated products are used. Such cladding reliably protects the foundation from destruction and has a long service life.

The surface of the material is resistant to corrosion processes. To attach the corrugated sheeting you will need waterproofing, thermal insulation and fasteners. The end result is quite attractive. The photo shows a house covered with corrugated sheets

Low tide device

The device of ebb tides can reliably protect the protruding part of the foundation from moisture and water. Castings are made from different materials:

• metal castings are made of galvanized steel, the surface of which is coated with a polymer coating, which prevents the product from corrosion;
• aluminum products are made from sheet copper, this is a fairly expensive product that will be an excellent addition to the copper roof of the building;
• plastic ebbs are the cheapest material, which have a short service life; most often, plastic ebbs are used in combination with PVC siding;
• The ebb made of profile ceramic blocks will be a good addition and protection for brick or clinker tiles on the facade of the building.

As we see, there is a large number of options for covering the basement of a house. The choice of material directly depends on the financial capabilities and features of the private house project.

As soon as the frame of the new house is ready, you need to think about finishing the foundation. It is important to choose the right one finishing option, taking into account the type of plinth and the overall design of the facade. Otherwise, finishing the outside of the foundation of the house with your own hands or with the help of hired workers will look careless and will not be combined with overall design. So, what materials are most popular for cladding the plinth?

Why do you need a base anyway? This is the lower part of the external walls, located at the very foot of the house and designed to protect the underground space from the external environment. In a number of buildings this is a separate element, erected directly above the foundation, in others it is a single whole with it.

Be that as it may, the bases must be additionally protected by finishing from moisture, dust, wind and other environmental influences. The plinths also differ in the type of location in relation to the plane of the facade. Here are the main types:

• Sunken- the easiest option to use. Due to the design of the base, there is no need to install additional drains, since it is protected from water and snow by a wall protruding above it. Such bases are easier to protect from aggressive environmental influences, as well as from mechanical damage. If we consider this type from a design point of view, then sunken plinths look the most attractive.
• Base protruding from under the wall- an option for buildings with fairly thin walls or if there is a warm room. It requires a mandatory drain, otherwise water and snow, accumulating on the ledge, will gradually destroy the foundation of the house.
• Plinth flush with the wall. This design is used very rarely, since it is difficult to ensure the required degree of waterproofing of the foundation of the building.

From a practicality point of view, plinths are best made from materials such as monolithic concrete, natural stone or baked brick due to their high strength. However, it cannot be said that the concrete base looks quite beautiful, so front finishing is necessary - it will add additional attractiveness to the house.

Whatever finishing material is chosen for the base, the foundation in any case must be protected with a layer of waterproofing and only after that the facing work can begin. What materials are best to use for this?

Finishing the base with plaster

For cladding the base, use any decorative plaster, it can be textured or smooth, marbled, colored, etc. In any case, pre-treatment of the walls is necessary - cleaning and priming. Some types of plasters require the additional application of a special mineral-based reinforcing paint.

If, having examined the base before work, you notice rather impressive irregularities, potholes, protrusions or geometric errors, be sure to install a reinforcing mesh before applying plaster. This is necessary for better adhesion of the plaster solution to the base.

A mesh will also be needed if the wall is perfectly flat, but the plaster layer is thicker than 1.2 cm. The reinforcing material can be anything - fabric, welded or wicker; the choice depends only on the thickness of the layer. If you plan to apply the plaster in a thin layer, you can use fiberglass. Reinforcement is needed not only for adhesion, but also to protect the coating from cracking during operation.

When applying plaster, you can show your imagination - the surface can be with patterns, cross-stitching, imprints, or simply rough or smooth. The grain size of the plaster also affects the appearance. Often used as a finishing layer facade paints suitable color.

More complex finishing options

Do-it-yourself finishing of the basement of a house can be done using a variety of materials. The most popular of them:

• natural stone (marble, granite, sandstone, limestone);
• porcelain stoneware;
• ceramic tile;
• siding panels and other materials.

When choosing the type of finish, you should focus not only on specifications material and the complexity of installation, but also on the aesthetic aspect - the finishing must be in harmony with both the main facade and the roof, lining of doors and windows, and even with the staircase railing, if any.

Facing with siding

Siding is one of the most versatile finishing materials, since it can easily be used to finish any surface. Depending on the design tasks assigned to it, the panels can be an imitation natural brick, ship timber, natural stone or slate. Installation of siding panels is so simple that even beginners will not have any difficulties with it - just stock up necessary tools and strictly follow the instructions.

Basement siding as a finish has a number of advantages:

1. High strength, ability to withstand high loads.
2. Color resistance to ultraviolet radiation - it will not fade over time.
3. Easy to install.
4. High waterproofing qualities - the material does not absorb or allow water to pass through.
5. Service life up to 50 years.
6. Good resistance to any mechanical damage.

Important: These qualities are typical for basement siding; it should not be confused with the usual siding used for the front walls of a house.

Despite the external similarity, siding panels for the plinth are much stronger and more reliable, and the base material contains special substances. It is due to them that the panels acquire higher performance characteristics than conventional facade siding.

The most organic look is finishing the base with stone or brick. Siding panels that imitate real masonry are no worse than their natural counterpart in terms of strength and resistance to external factors.

This siding does not require additional processing after installation. The vinyl on which the panels are made requires no painting, no caulking of the seams between the panels, no scheduled work to renovate the façade. For decades, vinyl will not crack and looks like new, and its waterproofing qualities do not deteriorate over time.

Siding is a lightweight material, which is why it is so easy to install. The panels practically do not put pressure on the foundation, so there is no need for additional reinforcement. This material is suitable for both new buildings and very old houses. Finishing the base with wood is no exception, but in this case it is necessary to take care of breathability.

If we talk about price, the purchase of material and work will cost a little more than when using polymer panels. Some, choosing between these two seemingly similar materials, purchase the more economical option. However, in pursuit of savings, it is worth considering that siding, although more expensive, is stronger and more reliable than PVC.

PVC basement façade finishing

Even the strongest foundation needs reliable protection from aggressive environmental influences - precipitation, sun, temperature changes, mold, etc. In addition, it is the base that takes on almost all mechanical damage; it is easy to touch it with a tool when, for example, mowing the lawn Location on. Protecting the foundation should be taken more seriously than the rest of the house.

At the same time, it is important to choose not only high-quality and durable cladding material, its appearance should be combined with both the decoration of the house and the surrounding landscape. By choosing the wrong material, you can end up with a not very beautiful design.

The second most popular material after siding is PVC panels for exterior decoration. According to the experience of many designers and builders, these panels have several undeniable advantages:

1. Due to the thicker layer, PVC base slabs can withstand impressive loads on the facade.
2. The appearance remains unchanged for decades.
3. The panels are resistant to any chemical and biological substances.
4. PVC is not afraid of severe frosts and fire.

PVC panels are easy to install - the elements are assembled according to the principle of a puzzle. To securely fasten the slabs to the wall, it is necessary to use self-tapping screws and a carefully installed wooden or metal frame.

With the help of PVC panels you can kill two birds with one stone - provide reliable protection for the foundation of the building and give the appearance of the house a complete and beautiful appearance. Due to the wide range of colors and the abundance of a wide variety of textures (imitation natural materials such as stone, marble slabs, sea pebbles or red brick) you can decorate the facade in any style: from calm classic to elaborate modern.

In addition, the panels are able to hide most of the foundation defects that arose during its construction - unevenness, potholes and others.

If you want to complete the renovation as quickly as possible, PVC plinth panels are exactly the option that you will like in terms of price, quality and ease of installation.

Stone finishing

Natural stone slabs for home cladding will never go out of fashion. This is the most reliable and durable material of all for finishing the base. Previously, due to the high cost of raw materials stone houses were the privilege of only very rich and noble people; in our time, stone is just one of the options for facade decoration.

Thanks to the variety of prices, you can choose the option that suits you. It is not at all necessary to clad the façade with expensive marble or granite; you can easily opt for lighter and more inexpensive sandstone.

Regardless of the cost of the material, the stone facade looks luxurious and presentable, and the protective characteristics of the stone are superior to any other materials - it is not afraid of damage, chemical compositions, fire, water, precipitation, ultraviolet radiation and mold. Such a base will last for more than one generation. However, despite the obvious advantages relative to other materials, natural stone has no less impressive disadvantages. The main part comes down to:

• high weight and, as a result, very difficult installation - finishing the base with stone with your own hands is quite difficult;
• strengthening the foundation, otherwise it simply will not support the weight of the stone;
• very high price.

However, despite the steep prices and upcoming installation difficulties, many choose this particular finishing option - the advantages of natural stone outweigh its disadvantages on all fronts. With a stone plinth, you don’t have to worry about the reliability and safety of the foundation.

Porcelain tiles as finishing

If natural stone is too expensive a finishing option, but you want to give the facade an impressive and rich look, you can use porcelain stoneware - an artificial type of stone. In terms of its qualities, it is in no way inferior to its natural and more expensive counterpart.

Porcelain tiles are characterized by a low degree of water absorption, which, on the one hand, makes it resistant to even the most severe frosts, and on the other hand, limits the installation methods. Such a stone is mounted either using special adhesive mixtures or using a frame.

Important: cement cannot be used as a binding element - in the first winter the stone may peel off from the wall.

Porcelain stoneware is quite diverse in appearance; its surface can be matte or glossy, satin, glazed or intentionally aged. The finish with an imitation of the texture of fabric, genuine leather or the so-called wild stone looks very beautiful and unusual.

Installation of porcelain stoneware differs little from the technology of cladding using plinth siding panels, so everything necessary work you can do it yourself. Main stages:

1. Preliminary preparation of the base. Thoroughly clean the surface of the foundation from dirt, dust and small debris, prime the base. Calculate the required material in advance, but the dimensions of porcelain stoneware panels can be adjusted right before installation, which is especially convenient when finishing corners.
2. The method of fastening largely depends on climatic conditions. If you live in a fairly cold climate, it is better to use a frame that will act as additional thermal insulation. Such work is longer and more complex, but does not require the services of professionals - with due diligence, you can do everything yourself.
3. Instead of wood, it is better to use stronger and more reliable metal slats. When installing the frame grille, be sure to leave gaps between it and the wall for air circulation.
4. The frame is installed within 15-20 cm from the ground - this is the height to which the soil rises when it freezes in winter.
5. In the gap left, you must put insulation of your choice - mineral wool, polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam.
6. After installing the frame, the porcelain tiles themselves are installed, they are attached to the grate using clamps.

If you decide to install porcelain tiles with glue, it will take significantly less time, effort and materials. A layer of glue is simply applied to the base, and the slab is laid on it. In this case, neither frames nor thermal insulation materials are needed.

Ceramic (clinker) tiles as finishing

This is a very popular material for cladding foundations, its characteristics are similar to porcelain stoneware, but cheaper in cost. Clinker can reproduce the structure of brick, be polished to a shine or deliberately rough, made to look like stone. In terms of difficulty in installation, tiles occupy intermediate positions between porcelain stoneware and siding.

What do the main stages of finishing work look like:

1. The first step, of course, is to prepare the foundation - the base is thoroughly cleaned, leveled and primed.
2. To install the tiles, you need a special frost-resistant adhesive. Dilute it to the consistency specified in the instructions, and using a spatula, apply a layer no thinner than 4 mm to the wall. Make sure that no voids are formed during the process - if water gets into them, then in frosty conditions it will freeze and the tiles will move away from the wall.
3. Installation begins from the outer corner with an offset - the vertical seams in the rows should not coincide with each other. For convenience, use special crosses to ensure even installation.
4. Once the glue has dried, you can begin the last step - grouting. Unlike interior finishing, when cladding the base you need to use compounds that are resistant to sub-zero temperatures.

Since the soil level around the perimeter of the foundation is constantly changing, it is necessary to calculate the number of rows of tiles in advance - the final result depends on two factors:

• the size of the tile itself;
• seam width.

To make it more convenient, measure the line of the second row from the soil and draw a straight horizontal line. Instead of marking, you can use an auxiliary strip.

This finish looks very beautiful - clinker perfectly imitates natural facing brick. Considering the high cost of the brick itself, the use ceramic tiles in finishing - a reasonable option. Such a base will look elegant and expensive. Interesting decorative effect can be achieved by using grout that contrasts in color.

The tiles are mounted not only on the plinth, but also partially on the walls; you can additionally trim only the corners of the house and window and door openings. The natural tones of clinker go well with the shades of ceramic tiles and most other materials.

If desired, the tiles can be mounted not only with glue, but also on a frame, similar to porcelain stoneware, if you are planning to install a ventilated façade. In latitudes with cold winters, the second option is recommended. It requires large financial and physical costs, but is much more reliable compared to the adhesive installation method. A layer of insulation can be laid between the frame and the foundation.

So, all of the above types of plinth cladding are good - none of them is better or worse than the other. When choosing the material that will be used to decorate the foundation of the house, be guided only by your own taste, convenience and financial capabilities.

The base of a house or any other building is considered the most vulnerable and problematic part of an architectural structure. Therefore, the cladding of the house should also include protection of the basement space of the foundation. What material for the plinth is best to choose for the job? Any facing composition must be highly durable and resistant to various types of atmospheric influences: sunlight, moisture, frost. The decorative layer must also be protective.

Base finishing options

Finishing the basement part of the foundation with plaster is used quite often. Experts highlight the following advantages of the protective layer of plaster:

If we talk about the disadvantages of the protective and decorative layer of plaster, then it is characterized by its fragility of use. In just a couple of years you will have to refresh the coating.

When covering a house with plaster, its natural ventilation will be greatly hampered!

An important point is the choice of a suitable mixture for plastering the base part of the foundation. It is recommended to take into account the type of rough coating and the main component of the plaster.

Tiling

Plinth tiles are considered a practical and inexpensive product for decorating buildings. It can be used not only for protective decorative finishing new buildings, but also for the restoration of dilapidated parts of the foundation.

The plinth tile has the following positive characteristics:

Clinker tiles are a good option for finishing material for a plinth

Even such a universal facing material has some disadvantages. These include a small term for the operation of tiles for the base part of the foundation.

Natural stone cladding

Cladding the base with natural stone is the privilege of wealthy people. The decorative material considered very expensive, but incredibly beautiful. Natural stone for the plinth has high levels of frost resistance, strength and water resistance.

Natural stone has one significant drawback- heavy weight. It will significantly increase the load on the building's floors.

Finishing is done using the following natural materials:

Natural stone will give the whole house even a slightly aristocratic look

• River or sea type of stone. Such natural material It is better to use where reliable protection from rain or melt water is needed. This is facilitated by the natural mineralization of the stone;
• Dolomite or natural granite. Such a stone for a plinth is characterized by the highest strength. Cladding the base with granite looks great when properly combined with decorative plasters or bricks;
• Limestone, sandstone. They are no less durable than granite, but have a lower cost. The base of the house, lined with sandstone, must be treated with a water-repellent compound.

Why do so many people want to use natural stone to finish the basement of their foundation? It's all about its undeniable advantages:

Despite all the uniqueness and advantages of natural stone, it has some disadvantages. These include the specific weight of decorative coating elements, the complexity of installation and the need to use special tools and devices.

The technology and step-by-step cladding of the plinth with porcelain stoneware is a complex process that can be completed without the involvement of professional help does not seem possible. Cladding the base with brick is considered a simpler operation.

Cladding with artificial stone

For many years, manufacturers of finishing materials have been looking for a worthy replacement for expensive and difficult to install stone of natural origin. Therefore, artificial stone slabs were created to finish the basement of the foundation. They have similar characteristics, and in some respects are even superior to natural stone.

Among the important advantages of artificial stone slabs, builders highlight the following:

Modern industry produces hundreds of types of artificial stone

• Ideal aesthetic characteristics, wide range of decorative coating shades;
• Artificial stone has a low specific gravity, so its installation is simpler and does not require additional creation of a structure that enhances the load-bearing capacity of the walls;
• Long service life with the ability to perform partial maintenance;
• The price is acceptable for clients with an average level of income.

If we compare the service life of natural and artificial stone, the first is significantly superior to the artificially created version. Also, the material imitating natural rock has a porous structure.

The technology of cladding with this material consists of several subsequent stages:

The technology for creating a decorative layer from natural stone consists of similar processes. The master will also need to cut the elements into the necessary pieces.

Artificial stone will interfere with the natural ventilation of the facade in the same way as plaster.

Facing with siding

Siding imitating natural stone

Siding is a special decorative material for facades, which can simultaneously perform a protective function. It is made from a composite polymer structure through high pressure casting.

Siding components also include various modifiers that make the material practical, durable and versatile for basement areas.

Advantages of siding:

• Even a small thickness of the siding panel can guarantee such strength and resistance to mechanical stress, which is comparable only with the similar characteristics of natural stone. If one of the panels is damaged, it can be replaced locally without organizing a major repair;
• Siding can be safely installed on any rough material for walls and foundations. Its specific gravity will not give the building a significant load;
• The polymer composition has unique resistance to any weather conditions. Siding can be used in any climate zone without losing its aesthetic appeal;
• The process of installing siding can be mastered even by a person who has minimal construction skills. The panels of the structure are connected to each other using special locks. Then the entire structure is fastened with nails to the pre-assembled frame. Work can be carried out not only in the warm season, but also in winter. Which fastening material should I choose? Buy decorative nails at a hardware store;
• Caring for basement siding is simple and does not require additional financial costs. It is enough to wash off the dirt with water or a regular cleaning agent without abrasive components;
• The facades of the building today are distinguished by a wide stylistic diversity. Basement siding is available in the form of textures that imitate all kinds of natural rocks and materials. The appearance of the building after decoration will retain high aesthetic characteristics.

  
  Example standard sizes basement siding, depending on its type

Construction practice has proven that composite siding is not an insulator. You will have to additionally insulate the basement area.

Video

You can watch a video on how to properly cover the base of a house with tiles and sandstone (sandstone is a natural stone).

Finishing the basement, on the one hand, is simpler than the facade: there are no special aesthetic and architectural subtleties here. The base can harmonize or contrast with the overall design of the building in tone, texture, and type of material used, see fig. Eager pedants just need to point to the Erechtheion, the Roman Baths or any of the Gothic cathedrals - and let them say what they want.

For small individual construction, the false plinth option is also of particular interest (photo below right in the figure): the strip protruding foundation is finished without any complaints, as long as it lasts for a long time, and the wall belt above it imitates a high plinth. This allows you to fully concentrate technically on the correct arrangement of a very critical place in the entire structure of the house - the junction of the wall with the plinth (foundation protrusion); in particular, on the ebb tide device, see below, without compromising the appearance of the house.

On the other hand, the cladding of the base is subjected to intense exposure to chemical (atmospheric moisture, dirt, organic matter from the soil), physical (temperature and humidity changes) and mechanical abrasive agents (wind-blown grains of sand). The concentration in the air of dust, dirt and splashes of solutions of soil components depend on the height above the ground according to a power law and within 50 cm from the ground they fall relative to the zero height of the building by 10 times or more. Therefore, both the materials for finishing the base and the methods of working with them require a more careful approach than for finishing the facade.

Thirdly, finishing the base with stone or other durable, resistant and heavy material almost always does not cause any technical difficulties, because the height of the base usually does not exceed 80 cm; in extreme cases - up to 2 m, for a house with a basement, and the basement itself is made of durable materials, otherwise it simply will not bear the weight, climatic and operational loads. So the material for cladding the base can be chosen, limited only by financial considerations.

Work order

The basement of a residential building is clad in the order of work at the final stage of construction - exterior finishing. In general, the finishing of the basement of the house is carried out in stages in the following order:

• A trench is dug under the blind area with a depth of approx. 30 cm (on the bayonet of a shovel) or 15-20 cm deeper under the blind area with insulation;
• A sand and gravel cushion is placed in the trench, and optionally, insulation is also placed;
• The base is rough finished in order to level its surface;
• A blind area is being built;
• Decorative finishing of the base is carried out;
• Only after this does all other work on the exterior decoration of the building begin, incl. façade cladding.

It is not recommended to violate this sequence, especially for inexperienced amateur builders, but in some cases, discussed below, this is possible, for example. if the base is covered or repaired existing building. In this case, the design of the base plays a decisive role in the complexity of the work and the possibility of using one or another finishing material.

Base and low tide

Finishing the base of a private house with regard to the choice of material and method of its installation largely depends on the design of the base itself and its cast. Pairing load-bearing wall with a base - the most likely place for moisture to penetrate into the gap between them, causing the walls to become damp. The waterproofing doesn't let it in from below, that's why they put it there. But the water flowing into the walls can also leak under the wall along the same waterproofing, this is the so-called. capillary damming. To prevent this, a low tide is installed above the base.

Base design options with low tide

Possible design options for a base with low tide are shown in Fig. If the base sinks (pos. 1), you are in luck. A simple single flashing is installed between layers of insulation; if there is a teardrop groove (dropper) knocked out at the bottom of the wall extension, pos. 1a, then capillary damming of the walls is excluded. But then either the wall should be 2.5 bricks thick, or the basement floor should be slab, pos. 1b. Budget developers avoid the last option - it’s a bit expensive - but in vain: then, during the operation of the house, the slab floor more than pays for itself. Moreover, on, in fact, the second foundation of the house, you can build a lighter and cheaper box. Also in this case, you can build from foam/gas blocks, then lining the house with brick, which looks solid and is inexpensive.

More often, however, there are houses on a protruding plinth, pos. 2. The technology for preventing capillary damming in this case is known, this is a double ebb, pos. 2a. Its outer tray (extension) is installed upon completion of the decorative finishing of the base and facade, so that it can be changed as it wears out. For reliability, silicone is applied to the surface of the rim (upper bend, fold) of the tray adjacent to the wall before installation.

Now on sale there are “eternal” ebbs made of propylene or stainless steel; their durability exceeds the estimated service life of residential buildings of conventional construction. With an “eternal” ebb, the task of keeping the wall dry is simplified: the base is completely finished, and the ebb is placed on the wall before facing it with a moisture-proof material, for example. waterproof plaster, clinker or thermal panels with glue. The rim of the ebb turns out to be walled up in the façade cladding, pos. 2b, and water will no longer flow under the wall.

Note: The same methods for installing a low tide are applicable for houses on a base flush with the wall, although in general a “flat” base is bad in all respects.

Sometimes, for decorative purposes, the ebb as such is abandoned, replacing it with a brick cornice. This is possible, but the facing brick on the cornice must be taken so-called. hyperpressed (hyperformed), the eaves-drip seams should be rubbed flush, and the masonry mortar and grout should be waterproof and moisture-proof with polymer additives. In amateur conditions, you can prepare them with your own hands by adding cement-sand mortar from M200 and grout for external use, 1-3 cups per bucket of PVA or polymer tile adhesive such as bustylate. You can also use glue for porcelain tiles or clinker (terracotta) tiles.

Hyperpressed brick is often falsified. The real one can be recognized by its uniform structure, the absence of visible inclusions and the even dark color of the matte or semi-matte surface, the so-called. “chocolate” bricks, pos. 3. On ordinary (quite suitable for their purpose) facing bricks that form a cast, after a winter or two the core will appear and efflorescence will begin to appear, pos. 3a, which means break the basement cladding and redo the ebb while the wall is frozen.

Finally, wooden houses are built almost exclusively on protruding plinths: the minimum permissible width of the foundation strip here turns out to be greater than the thickness of the wall, and it is impossible to place a log house or frame on a concrete slab for a number of reasons. In this case, the ebb can only be double; its options for log or timber and frame house shown in pos. 4 and 5. In a log/timber house, the fastening of the rim of the outer tray is sealed with silicone; in a frame house this is not required, because The wall cladding also serves as a teardrop.

Note: in all cases of using double ebb, the distance between the eaves of the inner and outer trays should be at least 10-12 mm at any place.

Preparation for cladding

The most difficult and time-consuming part of the work on finishing the base is leveling its surface for cladding; the base can be made of rubble stone, concrete blocks (possibly old, crumbling at the edges) or aboveground part concrete foundation. In this case, the easiest way to prepare it for cladding with your own hands is to plaster it with cement-sand or cement-lime starting (rough) plaster for exterior work. You can make your own knead using the hydrophobic method described above (PVA, bustilate, etc.).

Leveling the surface of the plinth for lining with starting plaster using a reinforcing mesh.

To level with plaster, the base is treated with a deep penetration primer on the appropriate material (stone, brick, concrete), large protrusions are roughly knocked down, patching is done as needed with cement-sand mortar and a steel reinforcing mesh with a thickness of approx. 4 mm, see fig. I use a plaster solution that is thick and does not float; The layer is 1.5-2 mesh thickness. Rub it smoothly with a polisher immediately, without waiting for it to set. After setting, check the evenness with a lath (the norm is 3 mm/m), rub and re-coat as necessary. It is advisable to first make a separate plot of 1-1.5 square meters. m, after that the “teapot” with its hands from where it is necessary will at least put the start quite level under the cladding.

Materials and technologies

Materials for cladding the base, as stated above, must be resistant to thermal, chemical, mechanical influences and abrasion. Modern materials for finishing the plinth, according to price and complexity, the work is generally divided into the following classes:

• Painted waterproof plaster is the simplest and cheap option. It is best suited for a low, up to 40 cm, base, the finishing of which is still not clearly visible. Maintainability is limited, because It is difficult to choose paint for a patch that exactly matches the existing one.
• Artificial stone - in terms of complexity and cost, covering the base with it is comparable to plaster. The appearance is 3+ or 4–, but tracing the corners is much simpler, see below. Maintainability is complete.
• Natural (wild) stone and facing brick - lining the base with them can be inexpensive and does not require much labor, but if the base and blind area are insulated, the complexity of the work increases many times, also see below. Maintainability is very limited: remove the damaged fragment(s) without disturbing the lining sufficiently large area, very hard.
• Flexible stone – in terms of the combination of parameters price/quality/appearance/technical capabilities, it has no equal. Finishing the base with flexible stone is also possible in a budget option. Maintainability is complete.
• Basement siding - depending on the region, it can be cheaper than plaster, and in appearance it is superior to artificial stone (not natural!). Correct installation simple, but requires certain knowledge and skills. Maintainability is complete, but repairs are quite labor-intensive.
• Basement cladding panels (not façade!) are somewhat more expensive than base siding with the same decorative qualities, but do not have its weak points (see below). Maintainability is limited for the same reasons as with wild stone and brick.
• Clinker (terracotta) and porcelain tiles are the most expensive and labor-intensive, but the most resistant and durable option. If you need a plinth surface to look like a noble polished stone, then porcelain stoneware is practically the only option at a reasonable price.

Plaster

There is no point in finishing the base with a beautiful, but not very durable finishing decorative plaster in this place. It is best to simply paint the rough base for finishing alkyd enamels for outdoor work. Yacht enamels will cost a little more, but will last much longer. The option is still a little more expensive, but even more durable and absolutely waterproof - the so-called. latex acrylic paints or acrylic emulsions; When dry, they give a layer similar to thick rubber, only colored.

The plastered plinth can be immediately finished to look like stone using silicone stamps. A set of stamps costs about 500 rubles, but you can make them yourself. In general, plastering a plinth under a stone is carried out as follows:

• Select samples (models) of natural stone of any breed suitable size and more or less matching along the contour, without overlap, up to 12-15 mm thick.
• For each model, a plywood or plank box is made - flask - with sides 2-3 cm higher than the stone.
• The models are generously soaked in mineral oil (you can use engine oil) and dried for 2-3 days.
• Next, the models are lubricated with Vaseline (lanolin), each is placed in its own mold and filled with silicone. Before doing this, the inside of the investment rings also needs to be coated with Vaseline.
• After the silicone has hardened, the flasks are disassembled, the models are pulled out from the stamp blanks (don’t be afraid to pull, silicone is stretchable and durable) and the stamps are cut with a knife along the contour with an allowance for the width of the seam.
• A layer of thick mortar up to 16 mm thick is applied to the base prepared as described above and stamped immediately until it sets.
• Once the coating has completely hardened, it is painted.

Fake diamond

Finishing the basement of the house with artificial stone.

Cladding the base of a house with artificial stone, despite all its mediocre advantages, is good for budget developers in that the forms for the corner elements (see figure) can be made independently. Corners are the weakest points of the cladding; this is where masonry seams begin to crack and moisture under the cladding creeps exactly where it shouldn’t. They mount artificial stone on a plinth or similarly to natural stone without insulation, or on tile adhesive like tiles (see both below),

Methods for making artificial stone with your own hands are described in other materials; Any type suitable for paving paths will be suitable for the plinth. You can also make homemade artificial stone for cladding the base from the same plaster mortar. The working process differs from the production of stamps for stone in that it is not necessary to select models so strictly by thickness and that the casting mass is tinted in advance, which makes the color more durable; see video below. The technology for making artificial stone from plaster with your own hands is not strict; different options are possible here.

Wild stone and brick

The natural stone for cladding the base should be chosen to be heavy, with low moisture absorption, i.e. not susceptible to frost. Shales, sandstones, limestone, dolomite, travertine and tuffs are definitely not suitable. The best are granite, diorite, diabase, basalt, gabbro and other rocks that can withstand at least 1000 cycles of complete freezing/thawing. Given the current climate changes, this is not so much; in Central Russia in the off-season there can be a full cycle every day.

The technology for cladding a plinth with natural stone depends significantly on whether it is insulated or not. Without insulation, the matter is simpler; you just need to fulfill the following conditions (see figure on the right):

Note: Don't be afraid of moss and lichen on a stone plinth. They will not spoil the stone at all, they will only add chic to the house. Mold and efflorescence (salt stains on soaked and then dried out areas) are the bad things. But on the stones of the above-mentioned species, both do not happen.

Base finishing facing bricks differs from cladding with wild stone, firstly, in that masonry seams make it normal for brickwork thickness 10-13 mm. Secondly, the masonry mortar must be waterproof with a plasticizer (see above), because Moisture likes to linger in the seams of brickwork and dirt accumulates. Thirdly, it is very, very advisable to use hyper-pressed brick, as for brick casting, see above.

Plinth cladding natural stone and with brick it becomes seriously complicated if the walls, foundation and basement are insulated. Then not only does the heavy cladding have nothing to hold on to, but there is also a danger of capillary moisture penetrating into the insulation. What type of work is required to avoid both can be imagined by looking at the diagram of stone cladding of an insulated base in Fig.:

Scheme of stone cladding of the base with insulation

And the matter will become even more complicated if the base is covered existing house, because the retaining wall will shrink. In this case, it is better to cover the stone base with siding, panels, and, if you want the high cost to immediately catch your eye, with tiles. But first, let's finish with stone materials.

Flexible stone

Flexible stone in some sources is presented as a kind of “flexible tile on polymer resins.” Apparently, those authors remember the old Soviet flexible facing tiles, which, as they say, have been around for a long time. That's where it belongs: polymer tiles dried out, contracted, cracked, and quickly wore out in heated rooms.

Flexible stone for finishing and cladding

The binder of the flexible stone is indeed synthetic resins, but not the mythical “polymer” ones, but polyester and urea, but the essence of this material is a textile base sprinkled with stone chips. The advantages of flexible stone as an external facing material are truly magnificent (see figure):

• Safe, environmentally friendly, chemically and mechanically resistant, chemically neutral.
• Estimated service life is over 150 years.
• Easy to process, can be cut with scissors.
• It shines through, you can hide the illuminators behind the cladding or even make a street lamp from flexible stone, which during the day, when turned off, will be a sculpture to match the decoration of the house.
• Available in an innumerable variety of unique textures and colors, completely consistent with natural ones, both solid and torn, with intervals to imitate masonry joints.
• The flexible stone can be used to trace curved surfaces and corners without any problems.
• There is no façade, plinth, external or internal flexible stone; it is suitable for all types of finishing work. The same material can be used to decorate the base, window and door trim, balcony, cornice, etc.
• Finishing the base of a house with flexible stone on a difficult terrain (uneven slope, etc.) costs 7-20 times less than cladding with any other material comparable in decorative qualities and durability.
• Careful preparation of the surface for flexible stone is not required. If the unevenness does not exceed 10-12 mm, the flexible stone is simply laid on tile adhesive (the minimum layer above the protrusions of the base is 2 mm). Otherwise, the potholes are roughly covered with cement-sand mortar. Which in any case won’t hurt to save expensive glue.

Flexible stone has only two disadvantages: it is rough; There are no glossy or semi-gloss (polished) finishes. Then, the base for the flexible stone needs to be strong, so you can’t glue it directly onto the insulation or SMP (see below), you first need to prepare the plaster base, as described above.

Siding

Basement siding panel

The base of the house is covered with special base siding, which is more wear-resistant and durable than façade siding. Basement siding is available in PVC and propylene. The former is cheaper, brighter and can be glossy; the second one is more stable. Externally, basement siding differs from facade siding in that it is made not of boards, but of slabs with tongue-and-groove joints with snaps, see fig. Therefore, it is possible to file the basement siding to size only at the corners, and the seam must be covered with a standard additional element. The basement siding is mounted on a horizontal sheathing made of wood or steel profile on hardware (screws).

Siding cladding is the least labor-intensive way to finish a stone base at an affordable cost; it doesn't matter either an old house or new building. But the “law of free cheese” is adamant here too: serious problems with covering the base with siding are, firstly, damage to the sheathing, secondly, the accumulation of moisture in the cavities under the sheathing, and thirdly, the settlement of insects and rodents there. As a result, the cladding is not so cheap and simple due to the difficulties with the blind area.

The general installation diagram for basement siding is shown in Fig. below; drainage is highly desirable in fairly dry areas. Installation of basement siding is carried out after the blind area has been completely arranged. At the bottom and at the top, deformation gaps of 10-15 mm are left, which are foamed, sealed with plastic glue recommended by the manufacturer (for example, CM14) and covered with additional elements (plinth, cornice).

Basement siding installation diagram

However, each manufacturer of plinth siding struggles with the problems of its product in its own way, which, by the way, indicates that there is no optimal solution yet. Therefore, if you choose siding for the plinth, then:

• Ask the supplier or search the manufacturer’s website for the material specification and make sure it suits your conditions (temperature range, annual precipitation, soil properties, plinth design and material, building design).
• Use extensions, sheathing material, fasteners and sealant of the recommended types.
• Follow the manufacturer's installation instructions exactly.
• In no case do not skimp on the starting and finishing bars: moisture, dirt, mice and spiders with their relatives are just waiting for that.

Panels and slabs

Finishing the base with panels is somewhat more complicated and more expensive than siding, but does not have its disadvantages, because There is no sheathing with its pockets; the panels are installed with glue. Metal composite panels, however, are mounted on the sheathing, but they are rarely used for finishing private houses because of their utilitarian appearance. Most often, the base is finished with facade thermal panels with clinker stone overlays and polyurethane insulation; they are quite suitable for this purpose. The paneled base looks no worse than under the siding. Thermal panels are mounted on the base in the same way as on the facade; surface leveling to an unevenness of 3 mm/m is required. Insulation is obtained automatically.

You can also find recommendations to finish the base with glass-magnesite plates (GMP), but this is far from the best option: GMP are fragile and have little resistance to abrasion and soil chemicals. On the outside, at resorts, the facades of rental houses are sometimes finished in a half-timbered style with high-quality SMP (on the right in the figure), but such cladding lasts for 10-15 years, and during this time it is necessary to make 2-3 cosmetic repairs.

Glass-magnesite panels (GMP)

In private construction, SMPs are sometimes used as permanent formwork towering strip foundation, which, in general, is good in all respects except the price. In this case, the SMP above the ground can be prepared for finishing, as described above, only the mesh fasteners need to be taken longer so that the screws sit in the base. And then the natural stone and brick as the finishing of the base disappears: under the weight, the cladding will peel off along with the plaster and mesh.

Tile

Tiling the base is a poor man's solution left over from Soviet times. The porous material absorbs moisture, and the glaze loses its appearance due to the appearance of microcracks and the influence of grains of sand. The plinth is finished with either clinker (terracotta) or porcelain tiles. Covering the base of an existing house with tiles is technologically no different from that during the construction process, which is a definite advantage. But in both cases, the work is very labor-intensive and requires fairly high qualifications: the base surface is leveled and its patching repairs are carried out. Then the base is primed with a deep penetration primer. The tiles are placed on glue (layer - 2-3 mm) in sections 1-1.5 m long. Immediately, before the glue has set, the tiles are fixed with crosses or other dividers (see figure), otherwise the cladding will slip. Separators are also placed at the bottom; a gap of 10-12 mm is needed there, which is subsequently sealed with the same glue. The next section is coated after the glue on the previous one has hardened.

Tiling the plinth

Note: It is impossible to prepare the surface for tiles using the method described above (mesh + plaster), otherwise the lining will peel off.

If you still want to decorate your base with tiles (it looks rich, nothing can be said), then it is better to cover it with porcelain stoneware. Firstly, the hardness of porcelain stoneware is comparable to the hardness of sapphire and corundum; it doesn’t care about sand. Secondly, strong inorganic acids, except hydrofluoric and fluorine-antimony, do not affect porcelain stoneware. Thirdly, porcelain stoneware is produced in slabs up to 30x60 cm, so the work won’t be such a hassle. Fourthly, it is possible to split porcelain stoneware on a solid base and with a sufficiently elastic layer under the tile only with a shot from a rifled weapon; Buckshot fired from a 12-gauge pump-action shotgun from a distance of 15 m flattens and bounces. Fifthly, porcelain stoneware slabs are also available with a glossy surface, almost indistinguishable from polished stone. Sixth, due to the low TKR (thermal expansion coefficient), porcelain stoneware on the plinth can be laid “without a seam”, i.e. with a seam 1-2 mm thick, which enhances the decorative effect.

And more about the stone

Let's look again at what types of stone are suitable for cladding the base. Yes, this is... a heavy boot! Fractionated broken stone is not cheap, but if you order a dump truck of solid rubble and sort through it yourself, you will find enough pieces to build a stone plinth, and, smaller ones, to later fill the recesses between large fragments. So, while building, as they say, tightly on a budget, also consider the option of a stone base. There is no need for cladding/finishing as such, but with 100% natural stone any house will look solid.

The basement is one of the most important parts of the building. This is a kind of support that is subject to constant negative influence of the environment. Finishing the basement of a private house not only gives it an aesthetic appearance, but also protects it from adverse factors. Therefore, finishing materials must be moisture-resistant, frost-resistant, reliable and durable.

Most of the building's foundation is below ground level and hidden from view. The protruding part above ground level is called the plinth. According to standards, the height of the plinth from the ground must be at least 20 cm. It is usually made of brick, stone or concrete slabs.

The construction of a stone plinth is the most practical solution, since the structure does not require additional finishing. However, it is worth considering that this is the most expensive method. Laying a brick plinth is more affordable. This material is environmentally friendly, has low and good characteristics strength.

Cladding the basement of a house is not only aesthetic. This is reliable protection of the building from external influences. Finishing materials that will be used for cladding the base must have high level strength. Together with the plinth, its cladding will absorb the load created by the wall structures of the building and distribute it evenly over the foundation of the building. It must withstand pressure and protect the base from external factors, such as precipitation, sunlight, humidity, and temperature fluctuations.

The finishing material protects the foundation of the building from damage by mold, mildew and various types of insects. The cladding of the base is carried out to insulate the building. This is also necessary to protect the foundation from severe frosts, under the influence of which its strength decreases and the process of erosion develops.

If you leave the surface of the base without covering, this will contribute to its slow destruction as a result of constant exposure to dry or liquid dirt containing aggressive chemicals and minerals.

Various options for finishing the basement of a private house, photos clearly confirm this, transform the building into a masterpiece of design art, making its appearance complete and unique.

Types of basement structures

There are main variations of designs that are used for house projects with a basement:

• protruding beyond the surface of the walls;
• flush with the building;
• sinking, relative to the wall.

Most often, when building a private house, a photo of the base of the house clearly confirms this; the first two options are used. A protruding plinth is recommended to be used when the house is being built with thin external walls, a warm underground is used, or the building has basement. In these cases, this type of base will provide the building with additional thermal insulation.

If you do basement part flush with the building, when thin walls are used for its construction, dampness and condensation will inevitably occur in the interior. Here the most problematic thing is to install thermal insulation and finish.

Important! When choosing these types of plinth, you should take care in advance about the arrangement of ebb tides.

The sunken base is less damaged by precipitation. Here you can easily hide the waterproofing, install insulation and cover it with the necessary materials, which contributes to a longer service life. This type of plinth is recommended for buildings without a basement. Finishing materials for the plinth will absorb soil pressure, performing a supporting function, thereby maintaining the safety of the entire structure.

The procedure for finishing the basement of a house

All work on the cladding of the basement structure is carried out at the final stage of production - the exterior finishing of the building. It is better to carry out work in warm, dry weather. Sheathing the base consists of the following actions, which are performed in a certain sequence:

1. A trench 20 cm deep and 50 cm wide is dug around the entire perimeter of the building.
2. Fill the space with gravel to provide drainage. Additionally, the trench can be strengthened using reinforcing mesh.
3. The surface of the wall, 50-70 cm high for the future plinth, is cleaned of dirt and processed. If necessary, all irregularities are eliminated.
4. Arrangement of thermal insulation.
5. Decorative cladding of the base.

The choice of facing material and the method of its installation depends on the design of the base and the method of casting it.

Arrangement of ebb tides for the foundation plinth

To protect the base from negative impact atmospheric precipitation, a low tide should be installed, which is fixed above the protruding part of the plinth, and is a kind of delimiter between the base of the building and the wall structure. One part is in contact with the wall at a certain angle, and the other hangs over the foundation, covering it, collecting rain and melt water.

The flashings for the plinth are strips measuring 50-400 mm. The color, size and shape of the ebb should be selected depending on the finishing material of the foundation. You can make a water-repellent structure yourself using waterproof materials, or you can buy ready-made flashings for the foundation plinth at any hardware store.

Today the industry produces several types of ebb tides:

• plastic;
• metal;
• concrete;
• clinker

The type of tide is selected based on the finishing material for the facade of the building. Plastic moldings are most successfully combined with vinyl siding, which is used for cladding the building. Thanks to a wide range of colors, you can choose the most suitable option. The use of concrete or clinker flashings for the plinth is preferable for buildings that are lined with natural stone or brick. Metal canopies can be used with any type of finishing material.

Types of tides

The most budget option is the use of plastic moldings made of polyvinyl chloride. The cost of the product is 50 rubles. for 1 p.m. Despite the high level of water resistance, ebb tides show increased sensitivity to physical impact, especially in winter period, when the slightest blow can cause them to crack and split.

Helpful advice! Due to the fact that plastic castings have increased fragility, preference should be given to more durable and expensive products.

The most durable and durable are ebbs made of metal: steel, copper or aluminum. Installation of the products is convenient and simple, and involves attaching metal strips to the walls of the building using self-tapping screws and dowels. When choosing this material from a large assortment of types, special attention should be paid to the aesthetic appearance of the product so that it creates completeness general design building. The price of the product starts from 100 rubles/rm.

Helpful advice! When installing base flashings, the planks should overlap each other by at least 30 mm. To avoid damage to the protective layer of the product, which will lead to corrosion and destruction of the material, do not cut the strips.

Metal castings are made from high-quality and frost-resistant cement M450 with the addition of river sand, granite crushed stone and plasticizers. The solution is poured into silicone molds of various geometric parameters. The result is an even and smooth product. These tides are attached to a special solution.

Flashings for the foundation plinth, the price of which is the highest and starts from 200 rubles. for 1 linear meter - these are products made from clinker tiles. This material has high strength properties, reliably protects the building from the negative effects of the environment and successfully emphasizes the design of the cladding.

Low tide installation technology

After selecting the low tide, you can begin its installation. Here it is necessary to take into account not only the material from which the ebbs are made, but also the design features of the building. Yes, for wooden house Elements that will be attached using self-tapping screws or other fasteners are suitable. Since wood has low adhesion and is susceptible to dampness, the use of adhesives is not advisable.

For buildings made of brick or facing stone, you can use flashings that will be fixed using polymer or cement-adhesive mortars.

Helpful advice! When using concrete or ceramic sills, their installation should be carried out simultaneously with the cladding of the base and walls.

If it is necessary to install flashings on a building already finished with facing material, then it is better to use metal or vinyl elements.

Before installing the drip sills, it is necessary to seal the joints between the walls and the plinth. All cracks and crevices should be treated with a water-repellent mixture or sealed with sealant. Next, you need to use a level to mark the wall. The highest point of the base is determined and a horizontal line is drawn along which the upper part of the ebb will be mounted. The part of the foundation that protrudes must be cement screed compare with a horizontal plane. The lower part of the ebb will rest on it.

Important! The ebb plane relative to the wall should be located with a slope of 10-15%.

Installation of metal and plastic ebbs

Installation of ebb tides should begin from the corner, using special corner elements, which can be purchased together with planks of the same width and color. Next, you need to finish all the protruding parts of the building structure: columns, pilasters and others.

Related article:

What materials are used for low tides. Which of them is better to choose and in what case. Installation of ebb tides.

In the upper part of the ebb, holes are drilled using a drill at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. Next, the element is applied to the previously marked line on the wall of the house and is attached to it with dowels and self-tapping screws. The lower part of the ebb with the help of dowel nails is attached to the concrete base of the plinth in increments of 40-50 cm. The joint between the ebb and the wall should be sealed with putty or silicone compound.

Important! During installation of the ebb, it should be taken into account that it should protrude 2-3 cm beyond the edge of the base, which will provide better protection during precipitation.

After covering all the corners and protruding elements, you should begin installing the drip linings in straight sections. You need to start from one of the corners. Each subsequent element should be overlapped with the previous one by at least 3 cm. All joints should be treated with sealant to prevent moisture from entering.

Installation of concrete and clinker slabs

Flashings made of clinker and concrete should be installed at the stage of facing the facade of the building, since adjusting them to size during the installation process is a labor-intensive process.

These types of ebb tides are better combined with facing materials such as brick, clinker tiles, natural or. To attach them, you should use a special adhesive composition for ceramics and stone, which is intended for outdoor use. It is purchased in the form of a dry mixture created on a cement or polymer base, and with the help of water it is brought to the state of thick sour cream. The solution can be made independently using cement and construction sand in a ratio of 1:3 or 1:4.

Installation of concrete and clinker ebbs also begins from the corner. To avoid complex processing of concrete castings, they should be pre-positioned in such a way as to minimize their cutting. This can be achieved by using the correct size of the seam between the elements. You can adjust the dimensions of clinker products by using a tile cutter or grinder with a diamond cutting wheel.

An adhesive mixture is applied to the back side of each element. The ebb tide is attached strictly along the previously outlined line. After waiting some time for the solution to set, putty or silicone sealant is applied to the joints between the casting elements. After the glue has completely set, you can cladding the walls of the building.

Waterproofing the foundation plinth

The basement of the building is constantly in difficult conditions. It takes a significant load from the above-ground part of the building and comes into contact with the external environment, being exposed to moisture. In order to protect an important part of the house from destruction, it is necessary to take a number of measures, one of which is the arrangement of waterproofing of the foundation base.

Waterproofing can be horizontal and vertical. Usually a set of works is performed that includes both methods. Horizontal waterproofing is performed before the construction of walls and is aimed at protecting them from moisture. However, in order to ensure a complete protective set of measures, it is also necessary to carry out waterproofing between the foundation and the base.

Vertical waterproof protection is aimed at preventing the negative effects of surface and ground water on brick or concrete. Such insulation can be external or internal. The best effect is provided by double-sided moisture protection.

Today, pile foundations are predominantly used in the construction of buildings. Here the base plays not only a decorative role, but also protects the house from heat loss. Despite the fact that this element is not load-bearing and does not directly affect the durability of the structure, waterproofing the base is mandatory.

Materials for waterproofing the basement from the outside

Coating, roll and injection compounds with penetrating action are widely used as materials used for waterproofing the foundation plinth.

To protect the foundation from the effects of groundwater, roll waterproofing is often used, which can be fused or glued. Fused insulation consists of a base in the form of fiberglass, polyester or fiberglass and applied mastic. The adhesive waterproofing is laid on the surface of the foundation using bitumen mastic, which is first applied to the rolled material and to the monolith, then the element is glued, pressed and smoothed.

The main advantage of rolled material for the plinth slab is its low cost and high speed installation. However, this type of waterproofing does not resist mechanical stress well and has a short service life. It cannot be used in places where communications pass or connect. Before installation, the surface should be cleaned of dust and dirt and dried thoroughly.

Bitumen, polymer, bitumen-polymer mastics, astringent plasters and cement coatings are used as coating waterproofing materials, which are applied to the surface of the foundation using a brush or roller. This type of insulation is used for water pressure up to 2.6 kgf/cm².

Helpful advice! To ensure increased strength of waterproofing after the first layer of mastic, it is recommended to reinforce the surface with fiberglass and apply subsequent layers on top of it.

The material is low cost and can be applied to a surface of any configuration. However, it is not durable and requires preparatory work and additional protection from mechanical stress.

The use of injection and penetrating compounds is the latest technology for waterproofing structures. Penetrating material is applied to a wet surface concrete base. Reacting with water, the composition turns into crystals that penetrate the pores of concrete, making it waterproof. The penetration depth reaches 150-250 mm.

Injection waterproofing is carried out using a liquid solution, which is injected under pressure into the cracks, pores and seams of the structure. This method can be used for waterproofing buildings made of rubble and brick. Using this waterproofing is a very labor-intensive process that requires cleaning the structure down to concrete or brick, and the complexity of the work itself requires the involvement of an experienced craftsman. In addition, such insulation is the most expensive.

Features of waterproofing a brick plinth

Ceramic brick is most often used to build a basement. Its waterproofing can be done using various methods.

Solid red brick can be used to build walls. This construction material has already undergone factory processing, where a layer of waterproofing was previously applied to it. Therefore, when using this brick for the construction of a building, there is no need to install external waterproofing. Despite the fact that the cost of this material is relatively high, these costs are offset by the fact that after laying the brick, no other work is required.

The next way to waterproof a brick plinth is to use bitumen lubricant, which is applied in several layers, cold or hot.

Insulation of the foundation plinth from the outside can be done independently using high-quality adhesive composition

Important! When using bituminous materials, it is important to strictly observe temperature regime. If the lubricant overheats, the coating will turn out to be of poor quality with the formation of blisters, cracks and bubbles.

The traditional method of waterproofing is the use of roofing felt. For a brick plinth, it is recommended to cover it with this material in at least 4-5 layers.

One of the new construction technologies is the use of a penetrating active two-component waterproofing composition, which fills all the cracks and pores of the base with subsequent crystallization. This is the most reliable waterproofing of a brick plinth with a minimum thickness of material applied.

How to insulate the basement outside the house with your own hands

By insulating the foundation base from the outside, not only the internal space, but also the enclosing structures are protected from moisture and cold. However, to achieve good result, the insulation for the base should be:

• durable and elastic, in order to remain undamaged when taking on mechanical stress;

• moisture resistant;
• lightweight so as not to create additional load on the base of the building;
• durable;
• resistant to chemical influences.

Important! When selecting insulation material, it should be taken into account that its application technology should not compromise the integrity of the building’s structure.

The main features of arranging external insulation for a strip foundation:

1. The insulation is laid not only on the above-ground part of the building, but also on the part that is underground, about 50-80 cm deep. To do this, a trench 80 cm deep and 1 m wide is laid around the perimeter of the house.
2. To protect the insulation from the effects of groundwater, drainage pipes are laid at the bottom of the trench.
3. A layer of liquid waterproofing using polymer compounds or bitumen mastic is applied to the walls of the basement.
4. After the waterproofing layer has completely dried, the heat-insulating material is installed.

All of the above operations, with the exception of digging a trench, are also performed to insulate the base of a pile-screw foundation.

Materials for insulating the foundation base from the outside

The materials used for thermal protection of the base of a building are subject to certain requirements: reliable protection, durability, simple and quick installation, reasonable cost.

Based on the stated requirements, one of the most economical and affordable thermal insulation options is to insulate the base with extruded polystyrene foam. This is a durable, moisture-resistant, frost-resistant and acid-resistant material that is small in thickness and weight, which simplifies its installation. The slabs are produced with a thickness of 3-10 cm. If the maximum thickness is not enough, then the thermal insulation is installed in two layers. However, it is worth paying attention that the material has a flammability G1-G4, so after its installation it is necessary to line the base with non-flammable materials.

Helpful advice! For outdoor use, you should choose slabs with flame retardant impregnations (G1-G2).

Scheme for insulating the basement of a building using

Spraying polyurethane foam is rarely used to insulate the base. This is due to the fact that to carry out this type of thermal protection it is necessary to use special equipment, certain chemical components and the involvement of highly qualified workers. The essence of the method is that polyurethane foam is sprayed onto any surface. Expanding, it penetrates into all voids and reliably adheres to the base, forming a dense coating. This material can be used not only for spraying, but also for filling individual voids and areas.

Do-it-yourself technology for insulating the foundation plinth from the outside with penoplex

On preparatory stage it is necessary to prepare the foundation surface by clearing it of old insulation, dirt and dust. Next, you should install a layer of waterproofing to protect the structure from rain, groundwater and snow water. Any type of waterproofing is suitable for penoplex, with the exception of compositions with organic components.

Work begins with insulation of the underground part of the foundation. For this purpose, PPS boards are attached using specialized contact adhesive, which is applied around the perimeter of the product and in the center. The second level should be laid with the joints between the slabs staggered in relation to the lower level. After installation, all cracks are filled with polyurethane foam.

The insulation layer of the base with penoplex requires additional protection from mechanical damage. To do this, an alkali-resistant reinforcing mesh is fixed to the slabs, which is subsequently plastered with a solution containing hydrophobic additives. Also, as protection, you can use wooden pinches, which are attached to the slabs using dowel nails. Wood must first be subjected to antiseptic, anti-foam and hydrophobic treatment.

The final stage is finishing the base with facing materials.

Cladding the basement of a house: which material is better to choose

Do-it-yourself finishing of the base various materials, which reliably protect and decorate its surface. This process must be performed before wall cladding in order to be able to hide the ebb under the finishing material for the walls.

The material for cladding the plinth must have the following performance characteristics:

• have low thermal conductivity to avoid heat loss from the building;
• provide reliable and strong adhesion to the base;
• have a high level of strength and wear resistance to mechanical damage;
• have low hygroscopicity and vapor permeability to avoid moisture penetration into the foundation and wall panels.

Today, when the question is raised about how to decorate the basement of a house, the following materials are used that fully meet the above requirements:

• clinker or porcelain tiles;
• natural or artificial stone;
• brick;
• PVC panels or basement siding;
• profiled sheet;
• decorative or mosaic plaster.

Any finishing material can be used to cover the base of a strip foundation. But when the question arises of how to cover the base of a house on screw piles, you should give preference to brickwork, siding or corrugated sheets.

Before deciding how to decorate the outside of the house’s basement, you need to take into account some nuances:

• when covering the base with thick material, it is necessary to install an ebb above the protruding part;
• If you want to expand the foundation, it is better to use brickwork;
• When installing or corrugated sheeting, you should first install a frame, the space of which can be filled with a heat insulator for additional insulation of the foundation;
• Frame-cladding technology allows work to be carried out at any time of the year.

Using plaster to cover the base

When the question is: how to inexpensively decorate the basement of a house, the answer is obvious - use plaster. However, this option is the least durable and also has an unaesthetic appearance. Such cladding is easily damaged by any mechanical influences and does not provide adequate protection of the base from external factors. However, this method is widely popular due to its low cost. It is also acceptable in the case of erecting a brick plinth on a strip foundation.

Plastering itself is not the final stage. To protect the layer from moisture and environmental influences, acrylic, alkyd, silicone paint, water-based or oil composition, which in turn decorates the base. The photo of the house decoration clearly demonstrates various options use of plaster.

Helpful advice! It is not recommended to use enamel paints to paint the base. They do not allow air to pass through and are environmentally unsafe.

Decorative plaster is often used, which creates the effect of a fur coat and can be colored using dye. The use of mosaic plaster allows you to create a multi-colored mosaic on the surface, which occurs due to the presence of fine chips in the composition of the original mixture. The presence of resin as a binder gives the composition increased water resistance.

Using a special silicone stamp, which is used to make impressions on the plastered surface, will help you solve the question of how to make a plinth around the house with your own hands with the effect of natural stone.

In private homes, finishing the base with corrugated sheets is widely used. The material has a high moisture resistance, is resistant to temperature fluctuations, durable, easy to process and can be easily mounted on a wooden sheathing. However, corrugated sheeting is not suitable as a finishing material for wooden buildings due to the fact that it is susceptible to corrosion when exposed to high humidity, which can lead to wood rotting.

Profiled sheets are often used to finish the base of a pile-screw foundation, where it must be covered for reliable protection from atmospheric influences.

Features of using bricks for finishing the base

One of the most expensive finishing materials is brick. However, having high strength and performance characteristics, it allows you to create strong, reliable and durable protection. This material is suitable for any type of foundation. For brickwork, slotted, hollow, hyper-pressed or ceramic brick. Work begins with arranging the foundation for the masonry.

If the brick is used to build the base itself, it does not require additional finishing. However, here you should choose quality material, in order to immediately solve two problems: utilitarian, by protecting the walls of the house from external influences, and aesthetic, by giving the building decorative look. When deciding which brick is best for the foundation plinth, it is necessary to give preference to red baked brick, which is resistant to aggressive environments.

In the case of finishing the base of a pile-screw foundation using brickwork, it is necessary to install a base in the form of a strip of reinforced concrete or metal profile. Brick laying occurs with bandaging. To connect the elements, a cement-sand mortar is used. The thickness of the seams is 10-12 mm.

Cladding the basement of a private house is important, so you should carefully consider the choice of material for the work. It acts not only as a decorative element, but also reliable protection the entire building from the effects of atmospheric and mechanical factors.