Fuchsia (lat. Fuchsia) – evergreen perennial shrub, belonging to the fireweed family. This plant is pleasing to the eye bright flowers of all kinds of shades, which is why they so often like to place it on home windowsills. Fuchsias are native to New Zealand, South and Central America. The flower has been cultivated for more than 200 years. Below we will tell you in more detail about how to care for fuchsia, how often to water it, when to replant it, and what to do if it does not bloom.

In nature, fuchsia looks like a shrub with flexible branches and oval leaves, slightly jagged at the edges. Depending on the type of fuchsia indoor blooms V different time year, so you have every chance to have a flowerbed on your windowsill that will be colorful from early spring to late autumn. Varieties include simple (for example, Bon Accord, Winston Churchill), semi-double (Satellite, Snowcup), double (Fuchsia Margarita) and racemose (Leverkusen).

Temperature, lighting

Proper care of fuchsia at home begins with choosing the optimal location for placement. The flower needs partial shade or bright light, but without direct sunlight. Fuchsia feels good on eastern and northern windowsills. Delicately colored varieties are best kept in partial shade, while fuchsias with bright colors should be kept in a well-lit place.

The plant loves cool rooms, so in summer you should try to ensure the room temperature is up to 24°C, and in winter – up to 15°C. In the warm season, the flower can be taken out onto the balcony or street, choosing a well-lit place. The plant does not tolerate heat well and needs to be sprayed, but this must be done after sunset. You can place the pot with the plant on a tray with wet pebbles or expanded clay. To make fuchsia less likely to overheat in summer, choose a light-colored pot.

Soil and watering

The fuchsia flower loves moist soil, but excessive watering can lead to rotting of the root system. Provide a drainage layer of expanded clay or pebbles at the bottom of the pot. In the warm season, fuchsia needs to be watered regularly, but at the same time make sure that the top layer of soil has time to dry. Water must be settled or filtered. IN winter time Watering fuchsia needs to be reduced to a minimum. Provide the flower with a period of rest, but do not allow the earthen clod to dry out.

The plant loves loose, breathable soil. If you prepare the soil for fuchsia yourself, it is best to take 3 parts of turf soil, 3 parts of leaf humus, 1 part each of sand and peat. If you buy ready-made soil in a store, choose a universal one or for flowering plants. You can add a little peat mixture to it.

It is necessary to fertilize fuchsia complex fertilizers for flowering plants during the growing season. Add fertilizer to the water for irrigation once every 1-2 weeks from the moment the first buds appear on the flower. You can add liquid fertilizer to the water for spraying, but only until the buds open. Stop feeding in September, when the shoots ripen. In winter, during the dormant period, there is no need to fertilize fuchsia.

Pruning and replanting

Thanks to the flexibility of fuchsia branches, you can give it a hanging, bush or pyramidal shape. The plant is pruned before wintering and in spring. Before sending the fuchsia to rest, old branches are shortened by 2/3, and young ones by 1/3. All leaves, flowers and buds are removed. In the spring, you should shorten the branches by 2 more buds, remove dried ones and those that grow inside the crown.

If pruning was not done in the fall, double work needs to be done in the spring. To provide beautiful shape To prevent the plant from becoming bare, new branches must be pinched twice in the spring. The last pinching should be done in the last ten days of May so as not to delay flowering.

The indoor fuchsia plant requires annual replanting. It is necessary to take a pot 3-4 cm larger in diameter and height than the previous one. A container that is too large will provoke the growth of new shoots, but will slow down flowering. Bushes up to 3 years old are simply transferred to new pots, and in adult fuchsias the soil is partially changed or 3 cm of fresh soil is added on top.

Growing fuchsia in open ground

Fuchsias do well outdoors. Moreover, this significantly reduces the risk of pest infection - in a hot and dry room, fuchsia is much more often attacked by spider mites and aphids.

Planting

You need to transfer the flower to open ground in late spring - early summer. So that fuchsia can withstand winds and rains, a support is first dug into the ground. Fertilizing with biological fertilizers is effective.

For planting in the ground, it is better to select varieties with powerful, straight shoots. It is better to choose a shaded place, since most fuchsias do not tolerate direct sunlight. But there is also hybrid varieties bred for growing in sunny areas - “Coral”, “Aloha”. It is better to plant ampelous compact varieties directly in pots, because the flowers will still have to be put indoors for the winter.

There are very few cold-resistant fuchsias that can withstand frosty winters in open ground (for example, fuchsia Magellan). Some gardeners have conducted successful experiments in wintering fuchsias outdoors - with the onset of cold weather, the above-ground part of the plant was cut off at the root, and the area with the roots was insulated. If you want to be sure to preserve the plant, it is better to put it indoors or on a glassed-in loggia before winter, because fuchsias love a cool winter. At the same time, do not forget about pruning before the winter holidays.

Problems when growing fuchsias

Even if you are sure that you know how to care for a flower, no one is immune from periodic difficulties. Fuchsias rarely get sick, but are susceptible to attacks by whiteflies, aphids and spider mites.

Pests

• Whitefly. When whitefly infests fuchsia, spots appear on the leaves, they turn yellow and fall off. Sooty fungus appears on damaged areas.
• Spider mite. When a plant is infected with a spider mite, the leaves become discolored and fall off, and black dots are visible on their reverse side. The pest loves rooms with low air humidity.
• Aphid. When aphids are infested, you can notice colonies on the outer parts of the plant. The leaves curl, the stems bend, and the buds remain unopened.

If pests have just appeared, a warm shower (with a water temperature of 36-38 °C) can help combat them. After the procedure, the plant must be allowed to dry and only then exposed to sunlight. If this does not help, you should apply the insecticide 3 times with an interval of 7 days. The solution is prepared according to the instructions, after which the crown is sprayed with it and covered with a plastic bag for half an hour, and the substrate is watered with a 2-fold diluted dose for spraying.

Other problems

• Falling of buds and leaves can be observed when the watering regime is violated, there is a lack of lighting, a sudden change in location in relation to the light, or hot air.
• A short flowering period for fuchsia can be caused by insufficient fertilizing, lack of light and humidity during the growth period, and insufficiently cool wintering.
• Brown spots and yellowing of leaves appear due to waterlogging of the soil during the cold season.

Fuchsia blossom

The plant blooms profusely and for a long time. The flowers consist of a tubular corolla with curved edges and a bright calyx. They somewhat resemble lanterns hanging from branches. Fuchsia blooms can be either monochromatic (pink, red, orange, white, purple, lilac) or contain several shades at once.

During the flowering period, it is important not to turn the plant with its other side towards the light source, otherwise it may drop its flowers. Wilted ones must be removed immediately so as not to stimulate the ripening of inflorescences, which shortens the flowering period. Typically, the flowering period of fuchsia does not provoke allergic reactions in others.

Fuchsia propagation

Fuchsia can be propagated at home using seeds or cuttings. It is best to start the growing process in the spring. Fuchsia loves coolness, and in summer period cuttings often rot from high temperature air.

Cuttings

It is necessary to take young fuchsia cuttings 10-20 cm long, since woody ones will take longer to take root. Before placing the cutting in water, you need to remove all lower leaves and shorten the remaining ones so that the evaporation of moisture through them does not weaken the sprout. You can use regular filtered water.

To prevent moisture evaporation, you can build a greenhouse over a container of water by covering the cutting plastic bag. The first roots sometimes appear within 4 days, although the process usually takes 10-14 days. There is no need to wait for long roots to appear - the cuttings can be transplanted into the substrate as soon as they hatch.

There is another way to root cuttings - placing them directly into the substrate. In this case, placing a greenhouse is necessary, otherwise the leaves will lose turgor. The advantage of such rooting is that the cutting adapts to the soil faster. After rooting, the greenhouse can be removed. At first, there will be a loss of leaf turgor until the plant gets used to more low level room humidity than in a greenhouse.

Propagation by seeds

This method is complex, but interesting, since a plant grown from seeds rarely retains the properties of the original flower. To do this, you need to exclude self-pollination of fuchsia and pollination by insects. The anthers of the still unopened flower are removed, and the pollen of the paternal plant is applied to the stigma of the pistil.

After this, a fabric or paper cover is put on the flower to protect it from insects. When the fruit is ripe, it is carefully cut, the seeds are removed and dried for a couple of days. It is best to sow seeds in March-April on moist soil, then place the container in a greenhouse and provide good lighting and room temperature.

Shoots appear after 2 weeks, and after 1.5-2 months the seedlings can be planted more spaciously. After another two months, the young plants can be planted in separate pots. Seedlings gradually adapt to environment, periodically opening the greenhouse slightly. If this is done abruptly, young shoots may die.

If fuchsia doesn't bloom

The reason for the short flowering of fuchsia may be an insufficiently cool winter. If kept in a hot room, the plant may not bloom at all. The absence of flowers can also provoke:

• excessive or insufficient watering;
• poor lighting;
• a lack of nutrients in the soil.

Purchase Features

Fuchsia can be purchased at a specialized flower shop or greenhouse. When choosing a seedling, pay attention to the appearance of the plant - the roots should not protrude above the substrate, the leaves should not have spots or dry areas. The top of the central shoot should not be damaged or pinched. The plant must be accompanied by a certificate indicating the variety, bush shape and a photograph of flowering. The cost of a young rooted fuchsia cutting is 200 rubles.

Fuchsia is a houseplant with bright colors, which can be planted even in open ground. At proper care it will delight you with long-lasting flowering. Fuchsias are easily propagated by cuttings, which makes it easy to expand the collection.

Fuchsia propagation. Growing fuchsia from seeds and cuttings

Blooming fuchsia invariably evokes the admiration of everyone who has seen it. For the summer, indoor flowers are taken out into the garden or onto the balcony; they are planted in balcony boxes or flowerpots, hanging flower pots, or together with other summer flowers in a flower bed. Therefore, questions about fuchsia propagation are always relevant. This elegant flower is propagated in three ways:

By cuttings,
leaf divisions,
seeds.

Growing fuchsia from seeds / Propagating fuchsia by seeds

Fuchsia seeds can be bought in gardening stores, but their range is limited. More often, fuchsia propagation is carried out by cuttings. Unlike seeds collected from their own plant, they reproduce exactly those varieties and hybrids stated on the package. For example, a mixture of hybrid indoor fuchsia “Foxtrot” is offered by the agricultural company “Aelita”, and hybrid fuchsia “Prazdnik” is offered by the company “Plasma Seeds”.

If you already have fuchsia growing, you can act as a breeder and get own seeds and try growing a completely new plant. This method of growing fuchsia from seeds is not the most popular. Such propagation does not guarantee the preservation of the characteristics of the mother plant, and lush flowering have to wait longer. But it’s worth a try, especially since this process is exciting and captivating. In addition, when growing fuchsia from seeds, you can observe how a small seed will eventually turn into beautiful plant.
As a result seed propagation New flowers, varied in color and shape, are formed. It is not surprising that the genus Fuchsia is so numerous, it includes 100 species and there are 20 thousand varieties and hybrids.

Sowing

Growing fuchsia from seeds is carried out in light nutritious soil and begins in February. You can buy special soil in the store or make a soil mixture of turf soil, peat and sand in a ratio of 3:2:1. Before sowing, the soil is compacted, moistened, and sprayed with a pink solution of potassium permanganate from a spray bottle. The seeds are sown in a tray, distributed over the surface of the substrate, not sprinkled with soil, but only slightly pressed into it. This is important because without access to light they will not germinate.

Conditions for growing fuchsia from seeds

The tray is covered with transparent cellophane and placed on a warm and light windowsill. To germinate seeds of heat-loving varieties, a temperature of about +22 ° will be required. Seeds of cold-resistant varieties will germinate already at a temperature of +18 °. When growing fuchsia from seeds, you need to ensure that the tray with the crops does not receive direct sunlight. If the ground is wet, lift the film several times a day to remove condensation. If the soil is dry, carefully spray the soil around the sprout with water. room temperature from a spray bottle. You can water through a tray. After 20-30 days, small shoots will appear. From this time on, the cellophane is removed from the tray for a longer period of time, gradually accustoming the seedlings to room conditions. Later, the shelter is abandoned altogether.

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When the second pair of true leaves appears, the sprouts dive into separate cassettes or small pots. It is important to monitor the soil moisture; as it dries, water the plant through a tray or along the edge of the pot. It is necessary to periodically spray the flower with water and feed it with complex mineral fertilizer twice a month. This, perhaps, is all the simple recommendations for growing fuchsia from seeds.

Growing fuchsia from seeds collected from the plant

Growing fuchsia from home-collected seeds differs from propagation from store-bought seeds in the need for pollination of the plant.

Fuchsia blooms in late autumn. To instead lush buds fruits and seeds have formed, its flower must be pollinated in a special way. To do this, you will need two plants: the mother's - fuchsia, on which the seeds will ripen, and the father's - fuchsia, the pollen of which will be used. Before the buds open or at the very beginning, the anthers of the mother fuchsia are carefully removed. Pollen is taken from the father plant with a soft thin brush and applied to the pistil of the parent fuchsia. After this, the bud is covered with a thin cloth, which is secured with a thread at the base of the peduncle. Under such cover the fruit will set. When it appears, the fabric cover is removed. When ripe, it resembles a purple berry. The seeds are carefully removed from the cut fruit and dried at room temperature. To prevent the development of fungal diseases, the seeds are irrigated with a solution of potassium permanganate. Fuchsia is propagated using fresh seeds. If necessary, they are stored briefly in the refrigerator in paper.

Propagation of fuchsia by cuttings

If you want to get an exact copy or several exactly the same plants as the mother plant, use cuttings to propagate fuchsia. The vegetative propagation method is the most popular.

When growing fuchsia from seeds or cuttings, sowing or rooting is carried out in early dates(spring - early summer). At later When fuchsia begins to reproduce, lush and long-lasting flowering will occur only in the second year. Cuttings can be carried out starting in the fall.

Propagation of fuchsia by cuttings rooted in water

Fuchsia cuttings are easy to root even in water. To do this, shoots that have matured but have not yet become lignified are cut off with a sharp knife from March to November. The branches should be 9-10 cm long and have 4-6 leaves. To prevent large leaves from absorbing nutrients, cut them in half with a knife and remove the lower leaves.

Dilute the root formation stimulator according to the instructions, place the prepared branches in the solution for 4 hours. IN glass jar pour water to 6-7 centimeters, place the prepared cuttings in it. Place the jar in a bright place where there is no direct sunlight.

Periodically monitor the condition of the branches; if they are wilted, spray them with water from a spray bottle and put a plastic bag on top for a while. If the water becomes cloudy, replace it completely. As the liquid evaporates, add fresh liquid.

If you did everything correctly, roots will appear in a week or a week and a half. When they grow to three centimeters and become branched, plant the plants in pots with a diameter of 6 cm or in cups with light soil. To do this, make a recess in its center, place the roots of the seedling, sprinkle with earth, and water. Do not compact the substrate under any circumstances, so as not to damage the still fragile roots. Propagation of fuchsia by cuttings gives excellent, almost 100% survival rate and is possible even for novice gardeners.

Further cultivation of fuchsia is carried out in small pots with a diameter of 10-12 cm. If the roots entwine its bottom, flowering will be better. When the cutting grows, replant it in early spring in a slightly larger pot. If you place the seedling immediately in a large container, this will negatively affect the plant and flowering.

In a similar way, you can root cuttings in a substrate, sand or perlite... Even those that overwintered in peat will take root well.

Fuchsia is a genus in the Willowweed family and includes about a hundred species. The name comes from the name of the German scientist Fuchs. The flower grows wild on the American continent.

General information

Fuchsias are bushes or trees. The leaves are opposite and placed on whorls, the shape of the foliage is oval, the shape of the leaf edges may vary.

Flowers that look like tubes, usually white or red, are double and non-double. You can grow both a canopy and a standard tree. The nice thing is that this plant is not poisonous and its fruits are quite edible. Let's talk about some types of fuchsia:

Types and varieties of fuchsias

A low bush a little higher than half a meter. It branches well and has pubescent branches. The foliage is collected in several pieces, rounded, jagged. The flowers are small, bright red.

Bush with reddish stems. Grows up to a meter. The inflorescences look like bells.

Plants of this species are very different, as they are bred by hybridization from other species. Among them there are indoor and garden ones, in different colors and sizes.

It grows up to two meters. Strongly branched, has large leaves, oval shape. Flowers in red shades.

Usually does not exceed a meter in height. The fairly large foliage is oval in shape with pointed ends.

Other names are fuchsia multicolored and conical plants, which in the wild grow even up to five meters. The branches are slightly covered with purple down. The foliage grows in groups, has a round shape, and the edges are slightly jagged. The flowers are axillary and can grow singly or form inflorescences.

Fuchsia growing and care at home

Caring for fuchsia is not difficult and even a novice gardener can easily grow this plant. This flower needs a lot of diffused light. Direct rays can fall directly on the plant only in the morning and evening. To prevent the flower from being burned, you can cover it with paper or a light cloth.

In the summer, it is advisable to take the fuchsia out into the fresh air, but do this without haste so that the bush gets used to the new conditions. When you place fuchsia in the yard, make sure that it is not exposed to rain or exposed to drafts.

In order for fuchsia to grow green mass well, the temperature must be at least 20°C; in winter, a decrease of up to 5°C is required, but not lower. IN winter period the flower also needs a large number of Sveta.

Fuchsia watering

Fuchsia needs watering with soft water at room temperature. Watering is carried out as soon as the top ball of the earth dries out. From the beginning of autumn, watering begins to be reduced and towards the end it is stopped completely. In winter, watering is done extremely rarely, but if the temperature is above 10°C, then it is increased more often.

Another necessary procedure is spraying. It uses settled soft water. In the fall, spraying begins to be done less frequently, and in the winter it is stopped.

Fertilizer for fuchsia

From mid-spring to autumn, this shrub requires fertilizing, which should be done every 15-20 days. For these purposes, complex mineral fertilizers. In winter, fertilizers are not required.

If you properly care for fuchsia, it will be able to bloom beautifully and even bear fruit. Withered flowers must be removed so that they do not take away the plant’s strength.

When fuchsia blooms, do not move the pot or carry it, as this will cause the flowers to fall off.

Pruning fuchsia

To stimulate flowering and improve appearance The plant needs to be pruned. So, the old stems need to be cut off, and the young ones need to be trimmed and pinched. Perform these actions during the period of growing green mass.

To form a tree, you need to make a support for the fuchsia stem, and cut off all side shoots. The top of the tree is also trimmed. Further, after the development of several lateral branches, the desired crown is formed.

Fuchsia transplant

Fuchsia should be replanted every year in early spring. Before performing the operation, the old branches are shortened and the rhizome is slightly trimmed. If you have ampel view, then there is no need to trim the shoots.

For replanting, take soil with weak acidity, which can be made by mixing 3 parts of deciduous soil, 2 parts of sand and one part of peat. Drainage also needs to be done.

Fuchsia from seeds at home

Fuchsia can be propagated using seeds or cuttings.

For the first method, you first need to pollinate the seeds yourself. If you take pollen from different types, then you can create a hybrid.

You need to sow the seeds around February, using light and nutrient soil. Before sowing, the soil must be treated with manganese solution. The seeds are simply scattered on top of the ground, slightly pressing them against it.

Next, the container should be covered with film and kept warm and in the light. The temperature needed is about 22°C, but if you have a cold-resistant species, then 18°C ​​will be enough. Make sure that the sun does not shine directly on the seeds and that only diffused light falls on them.

From time to time, ventilate the seeded material and spray the soil.
With the emergence of shoots, the film will need to be lifted for ventilation more and more often, and then removed altogether.

With the appearance of two or three leaves, you need to dive the young fuchsias into separate containers. Young plants should be sprayed and fertilized with complex mineral fertilizer every 15 days.

Fuchsia propagation by cuttings

When propagating fuchsia by cuttings, you need to prepare branches about seven centimeters long. They are placed in water or damp sand to form roots. This process will take 20-30 days. Next, the material is planted several pieces in separate pots in soil made from humus, sand, leaf and turf soil - all in equal proportions.

Fuchsia can also be propagated even from lignified cuttings. To do this, you need to make an incision around the branch and wrap it with a film of crushed wet peat, which is moistened from time to time. When the roots appear from under the film, you can cut off the branch below the ring and plant it in the soil for further development.

Propagation of fuchsia by leaf

For this method you need to take a large leaf with a petiole and part of the stem with an axillary bud. To root it, you need to prepare the soil from two parts of sphagnum, three vermiculite and one peat.

The leaf is placed in the ground. It should sit softly; there is no need to crush the substrate. Cover the material with a jar to create greenhouse conditions. Ventilate the flower occasionally and water as needed.

In two to three weeks, rooting will end and the jar will only need to be left at night. After another 15 days, the plants can be transplanted into separate containers for further development.

Diseases and pests

Fuchsia rarely gets sick, but problems can arise with it. For example, a plant will not feel well if there is stagnant air in the room. Fuchsia loves freshness very much, but is also sensitive to drafts.

• With the rapid end of flowering of your fuchsia , pay attention to watering and the temperature at which the plant overwintered, because this may be caused by too much watering or warm temperature wintering. This also happens due to a lack of light and liquid in the spring and summer.
• If in winter this plant stands in bright light, then most likely it will shed leaves . During this period, it can be moved to a slightly more shaded place. If buds appear in winter, they need to be plucked off.
• At another time leaf fall associated with low humidity and a general lack of moisture, as well as sultry temperatures.
• Falling buds occurs from a small amount of light and extreme heat, and also from inconsistent watering. Another reason for the buds to fall off will be the movement of the fuchsia during flowering or drafts.
• With excessive watering, especially in winter, fuchsia begins to suffer from spotting that affects its leaves .
• This plant can also be affected by pests. The most common of them are whitefly and spider mites .

Fuchsia: propagation, cultivation and care at home... Most widespread homemade fuchsia received because of its unpretentiousness in care and ease of reproduction.

A fast-growing semi-herbaceous fuchsia shrub with small oval leaves, amazingly beautiful bright flowers hanging like lanterns on long and thin stalks. Their sepals and corolla are brightly colored in different colors, which gives them a special charm. A fuchsia bush can be arranged in the form of a standard tree or grown as a hanging hanging plant.

Why doesn't fuchsia bloom?

How to care and what to do if fuchsia does not bloom. Possible reasons may be that in winter unsuitable conditions were created for fuchsia. Ideal conditions in winter 5-10 degrees. In this mode, fuchsia stops shoot growth and goes into a dormant state. As the temperature increases, the intensity and duration of lighting should also increase.

The reason may be due to late pruning and pinching of fuchsia. Pruning should be done in spring and autumn, cutting out any diseased, weakened or broken branches. During cold wintering, the branches should be shortened by one third in the fall. During a warm winter, it is better to postpone drastic pruning until spring (February-March).

Pinch the shoots depending on what shape you decide to give your plant. When forming an ampel, pinching is usually done after the third pair of leaves. When forming a bush, pinch it after the second pair of leaves. You should not pinch more than two times on the upper shoots, and it is better to pinch the lower shoots once, otherwise you may not wait for flowering.

Errors in care during the growth and flowering period of fuchsia. The plant may be hot, as mentioned above, or there may be poor lighting. Direct sunlight depresses a houseplant, causing it to suddenly become smaller and drop its buds, while the roots may suffer from the heat. Overfed with fertilizers (nitrogen), or vice versa, not enough nutrients(phosphorus-potassium) during budding. The size of the container does not correspond to the size of the root system. Fuchsias bloom after they have wrapped their roots around the entire lump of substrate in the pot.

Decent content for fuchsia!

Temperature
During the growing season, the most favorable range for fuchsia is 18-25 degrees. In summer, especially in August, it behaves well in open ground, but as soon as the temperature exceeds 30 degrees, the plant sheds its leaves, dries out and stops blooming. In particularly hot weather, fuchsia should be taken out onto a loggia or balcony, avoiding direct sunlight, which can lead to the death of the flower. To protect the sensitive roots of the plant from overheating, it is advisable to use a large ceramic pot (plastic containers get very hot).

Lighting
All types of fuchsia prefer bright, diffused light. They should be grown on the east (west) window of the room or in the garden in comfortable partial shade. This culture does not tolerate the heat of the day, but can easily withstand morning (evening) sun rays. But the flowering plant can no longer be rearranged or rotated: this can lead to the fall of all the flowers and buds.

Watering fuchsia
IN spring-autumn period- abundant - as the top layer of the substrate dries; in winter - moderate. For irrigation, it would be better to use soft, settled water. By the end of the growing season, watering is noticeably reduced, and by October-November it practically stops. In low temperatures, indoor fuchsia plants are usually watered 1-2 times a month.

Air humidity
During the growth period, the leaves are sprayed with a spray bottle in the morning and evening or, for transmission higher humidity, place a decorative bowl with pebbles filled with water next to the pot. In autumn and winter, excess moisture in fuchsia is contraindicated, so spraying is stopped during this period.

Feeding fuchsia
For open ground Biofertilizers are the most effective; as for indoors, you can use any ready-made fertilizers intended for domestic flowering plants. Frequent feeding (once a week) is recommended from the end of March; in winter, fuchsias are not fed.

Soil and replanting
Fuchsias are replanted annually and always in the spring. For this purpose, use special substrates from the store or any fertile soil, not forgetting about drainage. As useful supplements Sand and humus are recommended, and when grown on a balcony, loam, which retains water well.

Fuchsia pruning
The more often fuchsia is pruned, the thicker its foliage. The most suitable option for growing fuchsia is a regular pot or hanging basket. When planting several at once multi-colored varieties The result is a real floral fireworks display.

Fuchsia propagation and care at home

Propagation by cuttings
This process of cutting fuchsia is carried out in February or March, sometimes in August-September (for slow-growing varieties). Cuttings 5-7 cm long are rooted in sand, water or any suitable loose substrate. Already on the 20-25th day, roots are formed, and the seedlings are transferred to 7-9 cm pots. The composition of the soil mixture is sand, humus, leaf and turf soil in equal proportions. For getting lush bush cuttings should be planted several at once in one pot. The young growth blooms the same year.

Propagation by seeds
Artificial (cross) pollination is required for seeds to ripen. Mixing it yourself various varieties fuchsias, you can get new hybrids that delight the eye with a kaleidoscope of new colors.

Propagation by leaves
The stems, together with the most developed leaves, are torn off from the “mother” and placed in soft soil to a depth of 1 cm, after which they are covered with a plastic (glass) lid. For their growth, daily spraying from a spray bottle with warm water is necessary. boiled water. Further transplantation into containers (pots) is possible when small rosettes appear at the base of the stem.

Possible problems with fuchsia leaves, diseases and pests

Problems most often arise due to improper care. Fuchsias rarely get sick, and among the pests it is most worried about white flies (from the moth family). Concerning external signs unhealthy appearance, then they allow you to correctly adjust the conditions of the plant:

• powdery spots or fine dew on leaves. The reason is high humidity. The method of control is spraying with an aqueous mixture of foundationazole (dilution 1 to 11);
• falling leaves. Possible reasons are insufficient watering, lack of light, or an excess of warm, dry air;
• falling of flowers. This is exactly how fuchsia responds, the pot of which was rearranged or turned to the sunny side during flowering. Another common mistake is interruption in watering, that is, insufficient or too abundant supply of water to the plant;
• short flowering season. It is difficult to identify the root cause, since several factors can influence it at once: lack of light and/or fertilizing, poor watering, keeping it in a room that is too warm, etc.;
• yellow stripes and brown spots on the leaves. The reason is waterlogging of the soil in winter.

Bright, multi-colored and diverse fuchsias are precious gems in the collection of any gardener. Bringing it home curvaceous beauty, you need to know that growing and caring for fuchsia at home will require an amateur indoor plants application of all knowledge and strength.

Fuchsias are famous for their long flowering, from spring to late autumn. Plants can be grown as hanging, bush and standard forms. The incredible number of colors and types of fancy lanterns surprises and fascinates. Fuchsias grow quickly and are very responsive to care. But feeling a lack of attention, the plant may become capricious.

Features of caring for fuchsia at home

When cared for at home, a fuchsia flower retains its inherent seasonality in nature. The period of active growing and flowering lasts from spring to autumn, and in winter the plant rests. Therefore, compliance temperature regime when caring for indoor flower very important.

In summer, plants feel best in a moderately warm room or in the garden at a temperature of 16–24 °C.

If the atmosphere is cooler, the development of plants is inhibited, the formation of new buds stops, that is, the cold snap becomes a signal for fuchsia to begin a dormant period.

Exceeding 25 °C has a depressing effect on ornamental crops. Fuchsia may drop its buds, the foliage becomes smaller and turns pale. At such times, plants are at risk of being damaged by pests and diseases, and such danger is most likely when growing and caring for fuchsia in the garden.

On hot days, you need to take all measures to:

• protect the blooming beauty from the scorching sun;
• Regularly irrigate greenery with soft water;
• increase air humidity when kept indoors.

IN room conditions fuchsias thrive on western or eastern windows. Here there is the partial shade that plants need for flowering and maintaining the richness of the foliage. If the pot is forced to be on the north window, the flower is provided with up to 12 hours a day.

Watering and feeding a fuchsia flower when caring at home

From spring to autumn, fuchsias should receive abundant watering, which gradually decreases towards the onset of the dormant season:

• Flowering plants have the greatest need for water;
• when the fuchsia is resting, having completed mass flowering, the soil under it is moistened approximately once a week.

It’s a different matter if the flower is about to retire. How to care for fuchsia in winter?

In winter, flowers are watered no more than twice a month. At the same time, they must be provided with a stay in a cool room at low positive temperatures. If this is not done, growing and caring for fuchsia at home will become much more difficult.

In the warmth and lack of light during the winter, the shoots stretch out, the foliage partially or completely falls off, and the bare skeleton of the former beauty remains on the windowsill. With the arrival of spring, such plants lag behind in development, less amicably and willingly enter the flowering season.

In winter, fertilizing is not needed, but during the growing season it helps fuchsia form many buds and quickly recover after flowering. They begin to fertilize flowers in the second half of March. Apply weekly for feeding.

When caring for fuchsia and growing it at home, you need to remember that watering with fertilizer is carried out on a slightly moist substrate. Foliar feeding fuchsias are carried out along the back of the leaves.

After transplantation, the plant should not be fed for about a month. The same rule applies to young, just taking root seedlings.

To accelerate the formation of green mass, plants are watered with fertilizers with a high content. To establish and maintain lush flowering, compositions with a predominance of potassium and phosphorus are needed.

When growing and caring for fuchsia in the garden good result They are fed with compounds rich in organic matter, and adult specimens respond positively to the addition of microelements.

Transplantation when caring for fuchsia at home

So that the plant has enough strength to active flowering, it is important for him to receive abundant and comprehensive nutrition. In this case, the soil in which the flower grows plays a significant role. When caring for fuchsia at home, it is advisable to include annual transplants, which should occur in the spring - the time when the flower begins to awaken and grow.

Any loose soil can be used as a substrate. ready-made mixtures For ornamental crops, mixing them with garden soil or well-rotted humus. If the fuchsia flower will grow on the balcony or at home, you can add a little loam to the soil to reduce the rate of moisture evaporation. At the bottom is ceramic, protecting root system fuchsias from overheating the pot must provide drainage.

Propagation of fuchsia at home

You can grow new fuchsia plants by propagating the flower by seeds or vegetatively. More often they use vegetative propagation of fuchsia, as in the photo; care at home is much easier, and young seedlings mature faster and begin to bloom.

You can cut apical or stem cuttings as desired at any convenient time from spring and throughout the summer. It is only important that healthy buds form on the shoots and that not green, but already semi-lignified stems get into the soil.

If rooting of cuttings is carried out in autumn or winter, the plant must be provided with additional lighting and “summer” temperature and humidity conditions are maintained.

The cuttings are cut with a sharp, clean knife, after which all leaves except the top pair are removed from the shoots. You can root fuchsia with equal success:

• in water;
• in wet perlite;
• in a mixture of peat and sand.

How to care for fuchsia after cuttings? After just 1–2 weeks, when the growing roots become visible on the cuttings, they can be transplanted into separate small pots with a diameter of up to 9 cm. If planting is carried out in a large container, for example, for growing an ampel crop, several rooted cuttings are transferred into the container at once.

To flower ampelous and bush fuchsias was as lush as possible, the plants have to be renewed after two or three years. Standard specimens grow and retain their decorative properties longer. But here, when growing and caring for fuchsia at home and in the garden, pruning is always actively used.

If it is not possible to cut cuttings suitable for propagation from the bush, use fuchsia leaves. Large, healthy leaves are cut off along with the cuttings, and then buried a centimeter into wet perlite. In greenhouse conditions with daily spraying, high humidity and constant temperature, miniature rosettes develop at the base of the petiole.

When they are strong enough, they are separated from the leaf and planted in separate pots. IN further care Seeing fuchsia at home is no different from usual, when the flower is grown from cuttings.

Video about caring for fuchsia